Anhydrous cosmetic concealer composition with low filler level

By using oil, filler and pigment compositions of specific proportions, the problem of insufficient stickiness and hiding performance on dark skin tones is solved, and a combination of high hiding effect and comfort is achieved, avoiding excessive whitening.

CN120417876APending Publication Date: 2025-08-01LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
CN202380088604.3
Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Applications(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2023-01-26
Filing Date
2023-10-20
Publication Date
2025-08-01

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing cosmetic concealer compositions are difficult to have good stickiness, skin adhesion, comfort and high hiding performance at the same time, especially in the application of dark skin tones.

Method used

Compositions containing at least 25% oil, 0.5% to 4% silica aerogel, borosilicate or expandable clay filler, 25% to 70% pigment and 10% to 30% unsaturated aliphatic tackifier are substantially free of water, avoiding the use of whitening fillers such as talc and mica, ensuring that the composition provides good viscosity and covering effect upon application.

Benefits of technology

It achieves high hiding performance on dark skin tones while maintaining good stickiness and comfort, avoiding excessive whitening, and providing a surprising experience.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

Cosmetic concealer compositions comprising at least about 25% by weight of one or more oils are provided. The composition includes from 0.5% to about 4% by weight of one or more fillers, wherein the one or more fillers comprise a silica aerogel, a borosilicate, a swellable clay, and combinations thereof. The composition further includes at least 25% by weight of one or more pigments. The composition is substantially free of water.
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Description

[0001] Cross-reference to related applications

[0002] This application claims priority to U.S. Provisional Patent Application No. 17 / 975,284, filed Oct. 27, 2022, and French Patent Application No. 2300711, filed Jan. 26, 2023, the entire contents of each application being incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. Technical Field

[0003] The present invention relates to a cosmetic concealer composition comprising a low concentration of fillers. Background Art

[0004] Colored cosmetic compositions designed to cover skin blemishes are known. Such compositions can take various forms, such as liquids, creams, loose powders, compacts, hot-pour compositions, sticks, etc. However, these compositions have one or more drawbacks in various properties.

[0005] The inventors of the present invention have recognized that many of these prior art compositions do not simultaneously have a combination of properties that are highly advantageous for "spot treatment" of skin blemishes. For example, the inventors have recognized that there is a desire for a composition that can provide both good tack and skin adhesion, and a pleasant smooth feeling upon application. The inventors have separately and further recognized that there is a desire for such a composition to be usable with different levels and types of pigments in order to have covering properties for various skin tones, particularly dark skin tones.

[0006] Accordingly, certain aspects of the present invention relate to a composition for the adornment and / or treatment of keratin materials, which composition can cover skin blemishes, accommodate formulations with dark pigments and / or high pigment loads, and have one or more surprising cosmetic properties, such as good tack and skin adhesion, a comfortable feeling upon application, an appropriate gloss, and / or ease of application to the skin. Summary of the Invention

[0007] The present invention relates to a composition usable as a cosmetic concealer, the composition comprising at least about 25% by weight of one or more oils. The composition further comprises from 0.5% to about 4% by weight of at least one filler, wherein the at least one filler comprises silica aerogel, borosilicate, expandable clay, and combinations thereof. The composition further comprises at least 25% by weight of at least one pigment, wherein the composition is substantially free of water.

[0008] According to certain aspects, the compositions of the present invention comprise (1) from about 25 wt% to about 70 wt% of one or more lipids, wherein the one or more lipids comprise (a) at least one oil, (b) a high melting point hydroxylated fatty acid ester; (c) at least one wax; and (d) at least one pasty compound; (2) one or more inorganic microparticles, wherein the one or more inorganic microparticles comprise (a) at least one filler present in the overall composition at a concentration of from about 0.5 wt% to about 4 wt% by weight, wherein the at least one filler is selected from the group consisting of silica aerogel, borosilicate, expandable clay, and combinations thereof; (b) one or more pigments present in the overall composition at a concentration of at least about 25 wt% by weight; wherein the at least one pigment comprises a pigment selected from colored pigments, titanium dioxide, and combinations thereof; and (3) from about 10 wt% to about 30 wt% of an unsaturated aliphatic tackifier having a weight average molecular weight of less than about 10,000 daltons; wherein the composition is substantially free of water, boron nitride, talc, mica, bismuth oxychloride ("BiOCl"), and perlite. The pasty compound may be present at a concentration of from about 5% to about 15% by weight of the overall composition. The colored pigment (e.g., iron oxide) may be included in the composition at a concentration of at least about 5 wt%, such as at least about 10 wt%, from about 10 wt% to about 30 wt% by weight.

[0009] According to another aspect of the present invention, a method of adorning a keratin substrate comprises a method of covering a flaw on a keratin substrate, the method comprising topically applying the above composition to the selected flaw on the keratin substrate.

[0010] It should be understood that the foregoing general description and the following detailed description are exemplary and explanatory only and do not limit the invention. Detailed Description

[0011] As used herein, the phrase "at least one" means one or more and thus includes both individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0012] As used herein, all ranges provided are intended to include each specific range within a given range and the combination of subranges between given ranges. In addition, it is worth noting that the range description of the type "about 1%, 2% or 3% to about 5%, 10% or 15%" includes about 1% to about 5%, about 1% to about 10%, about 1% to about 15%, about 2% to about 5%, about 2% to about 10%, about 2% to about 15%, about 3% to about 5%, about 3% to about 10% and / or about 3% to about 15%. Except in the operating examples, or when otherwise specified, all numbers representing the amount of ingredients and / or reaction conditions should be understood to be modified by the term "about" in all cases, meaning within 10% to 15% of the specified number. So "about 10%" means 8.5% to 11.5%, such as 9% to 11%.

[0013] As used herein, "active basis" means considering only a specific component of an ingredient (eg, in a composition), while disregarding other chemically unrelated components that may also be present in the same raw material source of the specific component.

[0014] As used herein, "film former" or "film former" means any material, such as a polymer or resin, that can leave a film on a substrate to which it is applied.

[0015] As used herein, "polymer" means a compound composed of at least two monomers.

[0016] "Keratin materials" include materials containing keratin, such as hair, skin, eyebrows, lips, and nails.

[0017] As used herein, "solid basis" means considering only components (eg, in a composition) that are solid at room temperature, while disregarding portions of the composition that are liquid, such as water and other volatile solvents.

[0018] As used herein, "substituted" means containing at least one substituent. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms (such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms), and functional groups (such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, amido groups, amide groups, halogen-containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulfonate groups, thiosulfate groups, siloxane groups, hydroxyalkyl groups, and polysiloxane groups). The substituents may be further substituted.

[0019] As used herein, "volatile" means having a flash point of less than about 100°C.

[0020] As used herein, "non-volatile" means having a flash point greater than about 100°C.

[0021] "Substantially free of" means having less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, such as less than 0.25% by weight, such as less than 0.1% by weight, of a particular component.

[0022] "Anhydrous" means that the composition is substantially free of water and preferably free of water.

[0023] Unless otherwise specifically stated, all percentages of ingredients listed herein are based on the active substance and on the weight relative to the entire composition.

[0024] The compositions of the present invention can have various forms, including semi - solids and fluids under shear.

[0025] The compositions of the present invention generally comprise at least one oil and optionally other lipids; at least one filler, at least one pigment and optionally other inorganic particulates; and are substantially free of water. For example, the lipids can be present (collectively) in a fatty phase (such as a fatty phase in which inorganic particulates are dispersed). Optional components such as aliphatic tackifiers, polymers, etc. can be dissolved or dispersed in the fatty phase. Many other optional components such as other particulates, preservatives, skin - active ingredients, etc. can also be dissolved or dispersed in the fatty phase.

[0026] As used herein, "inorganic particulate" means any finely divided material that is predominantly inorganic (including inorganic particulates having organic or silicone - based coatings, but not including silicone elastomer particulates). Inorganic particulates encompass pigments and fillers.

[0027] Although the relative proportions of these components may vary, according to certain embodiments of the present invention, the composition can comprise a certain concentration of lipids and inorganic particulates such that the total (combined) concentration of lipids and inorganic particulates can be at least about 60% by weight of the total composition. In certain embodiments, the amount of lipids and inorganic particulates is present at a concentration of at least about 60% by weight, such as at least about 70% by weight, of the total composition (by weight).

[0028] According to certain other embodiments, the lipids and inorganic particulates are present in a weight ratio of lipids to inorganic particulates of from about 1:2 to about 2:1, such as from about 1:1 to about 2:1.

[0029] According to certain other embodiments, the composition comprises from about 25 wt% or 30 wt% to about 60 wt% or 70 wt% of lipid and from about 15 wt% or 25 wt% to about 45 wt% or 60 wt% of inorganic microparticles. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise at least 25 wt% of lipid. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise at least 30 wt% of lipid. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise at least 35 wt% of lipid. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise up to 70 wt% of lipid. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise up to 65 wt% of lipid. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise up to 60 wt% of lipid. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise up to 55 wt% of lipid. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise at least 15 wt% of inorganic microparticles. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise at least 20 wt% of inorganic microparticles. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise at least 25 wt% of inorganic microparticles. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise at least 30 wt% of inorganic microparticles. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise up to 60 wt% of inorganic microparticles. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise up to 55 wt% of inorganic microparticles. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise up to 50 wt% of inorganic microparticles. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise up to 45 wt% of inorganic microparticles. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise up to 40 wt% of inorganic microparticles.

[0030] The compositions and methods of the present invention can contain, consist of, or consist essentially of: the essential elements and limitations of the present invention described herein, and any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful in personal care.

[0031] The compositions of the present invention include certain inorganic microparticles, such as at least one filler. The at least one filler provides one or more benefits, including the opacity / masking powder that helps cover skin blemishes, changing the texture of the formulation, oil absorbency, and possible matte and optical / blurring effects, without causing excessive skin whitening. Suitable fillers include any inorganic microparticles among various inorganic microparticles that provide a certain degree of opacity but generally do not appear too white or chalky on the skin. A particularly suitable class of fillers is 'non-whitening' fillers, especially borosilicates, silica aerogels, and expandable clays.

[0032] Examples of non-whitening fillers include borosilicates, such as aluminoborosilicates, such as calcium aluminoborosilicate. According to the present invention, the borosilicate can be hollow borosilicate particles, which are generally uniform and have substantially consistent sphericity. Although the average particle diameter of the hollow borosilicate particles can reach up to 100 μm, the average particle diameter is generally between 3 μm and 20 μm and preferably between 9 μm and 13 μm.

[0033] In some embodiments, the hollow borosilicate particles contain alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, such as calcium and / or sodium, and may optionally contain transition metals or post-transition metals, such as aluminum. A preferred embodiment is calcium aluminoborosilicate particles. According to the present invention, other suitable hollow borosilicate particles include those sodium borosilicate fine particles sold by PQ Corporation under the trade name Q- hollow microspheres. Those calcium borosilicate / sodium borosilicate hollow microspheres sold by 3M Company are also suitable.

[0034] Preferred hollow borosilicate particles are generally high slip, chemically inert, non-absorbent, non-porous free-flowing white powders. According to the present invention, preferred hollow borosilicate particles include those particles sold by Presperse Inc. under the Cosmetic Microspheres trade name.

[0035] In some embodiments, the density of the hollow borosilicate particles is between 1.05 g / cc and 1.15 g / cc, the weight loss after drying is less than 0.5%, and contains, for example, less than 20 ppm of lead and less than 3 ppm of arsenic.

[0036] Other suitable non-whitening fillers include expandable clays. The compositions of the present invention include expandable clays. "Expandable clay" means a clay material capable of swelling in water. An example of expandable clay is montmorillonite clay. The crystal structure of the montmorillonite group has an octahedral alumina sheet between two tetrahedral silica sheets. In a notable embodiment, the expandable clay is bentonite. Bentonite is a rock formed from highly colloidal and plastic clay (mainly composed of montmorillonite, a clay mineral of the montmorillonite group) and is produced by in-situ devitrification of volcanic ash. In addition to montmorillonite, bentonite may also contain feldspar, cristobalite, and crystalline quartz. Bentonite has the ability to form a thixotropic gel with water, i.e., the ability to absorb a large amount of water. Changes in interstitial water and exchangeable cations in the interlayer space affect the properties of bentonite and thus affect the commercial uses of different types of bentonite.

[0037] A particular expandable clay suitable for the composition is BENTONE The GTCC V thickener, which is commercially available from Elementis Specialties, East Windsor, New Jersey. BENTONE The GTCC V thickener is a dispersion of organically modified lithium montmorillonite in caprylic / capric triglyceride with added propylene carbonate.

[0038] The concentration range of the swellable clay (if present) in the composition can be from about 0.1 wt% to about 5 wt% of the composition, such as from about 0.2 wt% to about 0.65 wt%, such as from about 0.2 wt% to about 0.45 wt%.

[0039] Other suitable non-whitening fillers include silica aerogels. Suitable silica aerogels are hydrophobic silica and include, but are not limited to, pyrogenic silica that has been surface-treated hydrophobically, the pyrogenic silica having a particle size less than 1 micron, preferably less than 500 nm, preferably less than 100 nm, preferably from 5 nm to 30 nm, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween. In fact, the silica surface can be chemically modified by reducing the number of silanol groups present on the silica surface through a chemical reaction. The silanol groups can in particular be replaced by hydrophobic groups: then hydrophobic silica is obtained. The hydrophobic groups can be:

[0040] Trimethylsiloxy, which is mainly obtained by treating pyrogenic silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. According to CTFA (6th Edition, 1995), silica treated in this way is called "silylated silica". For example, the silica is sold by Degussa under the designation " R812 fumed silica", by Cabot under the designation "CAB-O- TS-530 fumed silica" or by Dow under the designation "DOWSIL TM VM-2270 aerogel fine particles".

[0041] Dimethylsilyloxy or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are mainly obtained by treating pyrogenic silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. According to CTFA (6th Edition, 1995), silica treated in this way is called "dimethylsilylated silica". For example, the silica is sold by Degussa under the designations " R972 fumed silica", " R974 fumed silica", by Cabot under the designation "CAB-O- "TS-610 fumed silica", "CAB-O- are sold as "TS-720 fumed silica".

[0042] In addition, if desired, silica aerogel particles can also be added to the compositions of the present invention. Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (drying) the liquid components of a silica gel with air. They are typically synthesized in a liquid medium via a sol-gel process and are then typically dried by extraction with a supercritical fluid (one of the most commonly used supercritical fluids is supercritical CO2). This drying can avoid pore and material shrinkage.

[0043] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that can be used in the present invention can have a specific surface area (SM) per unit mass in the range of 500 to 1500 m 2 / g, preferably 600 to 1200 m 2 / g, and still more preferably 600 to 800 m 2 / g, and a size expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]) in the range of 1 to 1500 μm, still more preferably 1 to 1000 μm, preferably 1 to 100 μm, especially 1 to 30 μm, more preferably 5 to 25 μm, still more preferably 5 to 20 μm, and even still more preferably 5 to 15 μm.

[0044] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that can be used in the present invention have a size expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]) in the range of 1 to 30 μm, preferably 5 to 25 μm, still more preferably 5 to 20 μm, and even still more preferably 5 to 15 μm.

[0045] The size of the silica aerogel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer (such as the MASTERSIZER TM 2000 particle size analysis machine) from Malvern. The data is processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory (which is exact for isotropic particles) enables the determination of an "effective" particle diameter in the case of non-spherical particles. According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that can be used in the present invention have a specific surface area (SM) per unit mass in the range of 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]) in the range of 5 to 20 μm, and even still more preferably 5 to 15 μm.

[0046] The silica aerogel particles that can be used in the present invention can advantageously have a range of 0.02 g / cm 3 to 0.10 g / cm 3, preferably 0.03 g / cm 3 to 0.08 g / cm 3 , and preferably 0.05 g / cm 3 to 0.08 g / cm3 for the tapped density ρ.

[0047] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that can be used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume SV in the range of 5 to 60 m 2 / cm 3 , preferably 10 to 50 m 2 / cm 3 , and still more preferably 15 to 40 m 2 / cm 3 . The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the following relationship: SV = SM x ρ, where ρ is the tapped density expressed in g / cm3, and SM is the specific surface area per unit mass expressed in m 2 / g, as defined above.

[0048] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that can be used according to the present invention have an oil absorption capacity (measured at the wet point) in the range of 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably 6 to 15 ml / g, and still more preferably 8 to 12 ml / g. The absorption capacity measured at the wet point (denoted as Wp) corresponds to the amount of oil that needs to be added to 100 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste. It is measured according to the "wet point" method or the method for determining the oil absorption of powders described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder obtained by measuring the wet point as described below: Place an amount m = 2 g of the powder on a glass plate, and then drip oil (isononyl isononanoate). After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mix using a spatula, and continue adding oil until the oil and the powder form an aggregate. From this point on, add oil at a rate of one drop at a time, and then grind the mixture with a spatula. Stop adding oil when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. Then note down the volume Vs of the oil used (expressed in ml). The oil absorption corresponds to the ratio Vs / m.

[0049] The aerogels that can be used in accordance with the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name: silylated silica). The term "hydrophobic silica" should be understood to mean any silica whose surface has been treated with a silylating agent to functionalize the OH groups with silyl Si-Rn groups (such as trimethylsilyl), said silylating agent being, for example, a silicon halide (such as an alkylchlorosilane), a siloxane, in particular a dimethylsiloxane (such as hexamethyldisiloxane) or a silazane. Silylated silica is particulate hydrophobic silica having surface trialkylsiloxy groups.

[0050] The non-whitening fillers can be coated or uncoated.

[0051] In certain embodiments, the average particle size of the non-whitening fillers ranges from about 1 micron to about 100 microns, such as from about 1 micron to about 10 microns.

[0052] Other fillers that can be included in the composition (specifically excluded from the non-whitening fillers) include talc, boron nitride, mica (such as synthetic mica / synthetic fluorophlogopite and natural mica), bismuth oxychloride, and perlite.

[0053] Although in certain embodiments of the present invention, the composition may include such fillers, according to certain significant embodiments of the present invention, the composition is substantially free of all these fillers: mica, talc, perlite, bismuth oxychloride, and boron nitride. In certain other embodiments, the talc and mica in the composition are limited to those materials that do not contain a multi-layer coating that provides a coherent pigment effect. In other words, in these embodiments, the composition may include talc or mica as a coherent (colored) pigment, but otherwise is substantially free of mica, talc, perlite, bismuth oxychloride, and boron nitride (fillers).

[0054] Examples of boron nitride include CC6058 boron nitride powder, which is commercially available from Momentive Performance Materials, Waterford, New York. Examples of perlite (non-crystalline volcanic glass) include perlite having a typical composition of 70 - 75% silica, 12 - 15% alumina, 3 - 5% potassium oxide, 3 - 4% sodium oxide, and trace amounts of iron oxide, magnesium oxide, and calcium oxide.

[0055] The total concentration by weight of the fillers present in the composition of the present invention is low. The total concentration of fillers in the composition is less than about 4% by weight, such as less than about 3% by weight, such as from about 0.5% by weight, 1% by weight, or 1.5% by weight to about 2% by weight, 3% by weight, or 4% by weight.

[0056] The composition of the present invention comprises one or more inorganic pigments, such as one or more colored pigments and / or titanium dioxide.

[0057] The colored pigments provide masking powder to help cover skin imperfections while imparting some additional visible color. Suitable colored pigments include any inorganic pigments among various inorganic pigments such as iron oxides, ultramarine blue pigments, manganese violet, Prussian blue, and chromium green pigments, carbon black, etc. Iron oxides are particularly prominent. The colored pigments can be coated or uncoated, however, in certain embodiments of the present invention, the colored pigments are uncoated.

[0058] Any colored pigment among various cosmetic-grade colored pigments is suitable for use in the composition of the present invention. In certain embodiments, the average particle size of the colored pigments ranges from about 1 micron to about 100 microns, such as from about 1 micron to about 10 microns.

[0059] The concentration range of the colored pigments in the composition can be from about 0.01 wt%, 0.05 wt% or 0.5 wt% to about 1 wt%, 2 wt% or 30 wt%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween. In certain embodiments of the present invention, the colored pigments are present in the composition at a concentration of at least about 5 wt%, such as at least about 10 wt%, such as from about 5 wt%, 10 wt% or 12 wt% to about 15 wt%, 20 wt% or 30 wt% by weight.

[0060] In addition, the composition of the present invention may further comprise an opaque pigment, such as titanium dioxide. The opaque pigment provides masking powder but is generally used at a concentration that limits the whitening effect on the skin. The opaque pigment, preferably titanium dioxide, may be present in the composition at a concentration of up to about 30 wt%, such as from about 0%, 1% or 2% to about 2%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 8%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 25% or 30%. In certain preferred embodiments, the composition comprises a colored pigment and titanium dioxide.

[0061] In certain embodiments, the total concentration of the pigments (colored pigments and opaque pigments) is at least about 25 wt%, such as from about 25 wt% or 30 wt% to about 30 wt% or 35 wt%. In certain other embodiments, the ratio of the colored pigment to the opaque pigment is at least about 1:5, such as at least about 1:1. In certain embodiments, the ratio of the colored pigment to the opaque pigment is from about 1:1 to about 100:1.

[0062] As described above, the composition of the present invention comprises one or more lipids, such as at least one oil. "Lipid" means any of various fat substances insoluble in water and includes, for example, hydrocarbon-based fat substances or silicone-based fat substances. These lipids can be liquid or solid at room temperature and can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0063] "Oil" means a compound having a melting point below about 15 °C, such as below about 10 °C and generally insoluble in water, and includes a hydrophobic moiety, such as a hydrophobic moiety that meets one or more of the following three criteria: (a) a carbon chain having at least six carbons, none of which six carbons is a carbonyl carbon or has a hydrophilic moiety (defined below) directly bonded thereto; (b) having two or more alkylsiloxy groups; or (c) having two or more oxypropylene groups in a sequence. The hydrophobic moiety may include straight-chain, cyclic, aromatic, saturated or unsaturated groups. The hydrophobic compound is not amphiphilic in certain embodiments and thus does not include a polar hydrophilic moiety in such embodiments, such as anionic, cationic, zwitterionic or non-ionic groups, including sulfates, sulfonates, carboxylates, phosphates, phosphonates, ammonium (including monoalkylammonium, dialkylammonium and trialkylammonium species), pyridinium, imidazolinium, amidinium, poly(ethyleneimineonium), alkylammonium sulfates, alkylammonium carboxylates, amphoacetates and poly(ethyleneoxy)sulfonyl moieties. In certain embodiments, the oil does not include a hydroxyl moiety. The weight-average molecular weight of the oil may be less than about 1000 daltons.

[0064] Suitable examples of oil compounds include vegetable oils (glycerides of fatty acids, glycerol monoesters, glycerol diesters, glycerol triesters) and fatty esters. Specific non-limiting examples include, but are not limited to, esters such as isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isononyl isononanoate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, ethylhexyl palmitate, silicone oils (such as dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane), pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate and mineral oil. Other examples of oils include, for example, liquid organic UV filters commonly used as UV absorbers in sunscreens, such as octocrylene, octyl salicylate, octyl methoxycinnamate, etc.

[0065] Suitable oils include volatile oils and / or non-volatile oils. Such oils can be any acceptable oil, including but not limited to silicone oils and / or hydrocarbon oils.

[0066] According to certain embodiments, the compositions of the present invention may include one or more volatile silicone oils. Examples of such volatile silicone oils include linear or cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity less than or equal to 6 cSt at room temperature and having 2 to 7 silicon atoms, which are optionally substituted with alkyl or alkoxy groups of 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Specific oils that can be used in the present invention include octamethyltetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile oils that can be used include KF 96A having a viscosity of 6 cSt, which is a commercial product from Shin Etsu with a flash point of 94 °C.

[0067] Relative to the total weight of the composition, the concentration of the oil in the composition is preferably at least about 25% by weight, such as about 25%, 30% or 35% to about 35%, 40% or 50% by weight, including all combinations of such ranges.

[0068] The compositions of the present invention may include other lipids, such as at least one wax. As used herein, "wax" is intended to mean a lipophilic fatty compound that is solid at room temperature (about 25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e., 105 Pa), which undergoes a reversible solid / liquid state change and has a melting point greater than 30 °C, and in some embodiments, a melting point higher than about 55 °C, up to about 120 °C or even as high as about 200 °C. In certain embodiments, the wax has a weight average molecular weight of less than about 2000 daltons.

[0069] The wax can reversibly change from a solid state to a liquid state, and / or the hardness can exceed 0.5 MPa at ambient temperature, and can have an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state.

[0070] The term wax can include waxes of animal origin, waxes of plant origin, waxes of mineral origin, and waxes of synthetic origin. Examples of waxes of animal origin include beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect wax. Examples of waxes of plant origin include rice wax, palm wax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, and cotton wax. Examples of waxes of mineral origin include paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, montan wax, and ozokerite. Examples of waxes of synthetic origin include polyolefin waxes, such as polyethylene wax (linear low molecular weight polyethylene wax), waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, waxy copolymers and their esters, as well as silicone waxes and fluorowaxes.

[0071] The term wax can further include high melting point hydrogenated oils of animal or plant origin. Examples include hydrogenated jojoba wax and hydrogenated oils (obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of fats composed of C8-C32 linear or non-linear fatty chains), hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin, and hydrogenated palm oil.

[0072] While in certain embodiments the compositions of the present invention include from about 1% to about 10% of wax. However, in certain other embodiments, the compositions of the present invention have only a limited amount of wax, such as less than about 5% by weight, such as from about 1% to about 4% by weight.

[0073] In certain embodiments of the present invention, the composition may include other lipids that may not fall within the definition of waxes or oils, such as fatty materials that are semi-solid, paste-like or pasty at room temperature ("pasty compounds"), for example lipids having a melting temperature in the range of about 15°C to about 40°C. Suitable examples include shea butter, hydrogenated beef tallow, and any of the various partial esters of diglycerol and medium-chain fatty acids, such as bis-diglyceryl polyacyl adipate-2 (which is commercially available from Cremer Oleo of Hamburg, Germany as 649 bis-diglyceryl polyacyl adipate-2); and ethylhexyl hydroxystearate (such as 171 ethylhexyl hydroxystearate available from Alzo International of Sayerville, NJ). In certain embodiments, the composition of the present invention includes from about 5% or 7% or 8% to about 12% or 15% of the pasty compound.

[0074] Examples of other suitable lipids include hydroxylated fatty acid esters. Hydroxylated fatty acid esters can have a high melting point. "High melting point hydroxylated fatty acid ester" means a hydroxylated fatty acid ester having a melting point of at least 40°C. In certain embodiments, the melting point of the hydroxylated fatty acid ester is at least about 50°C, such as at least about 60°C, such as at least about 80°C.

[0075] According to certain embodiments, the high melting point hydroxylated fatty acid ester is a triester of a fatty acid and glycerol (fatty acid triglyceride). According to certain embodiments, the high melting point hydroxylated fatty acid ester has at least one C12 or larger carbon chain. In certain other embodiments, it has at least two hydroxyl groups. In certain other embodiments, the high melting point hydroxylated fatty acid ester is trihydroxystearin (THS).

[0076] A particular high melting point hydroxylated fatty acid ester suitable for the composition is R hydroxystearin, commercially available from Hemming's Specialty Chemicals of East Windsor, NJ.

[0077] The concentration range of the high melting point hydroxylated fatty acid ester in the composition can be from about 0.1% by weight to about 5% by weight of the composition, such as from about 0.1% by weight to about 1% by weight, such as from about 0.25% by weight to about 1% by weight.

[0078] Relative to the total weight of the composition, the total concentration of lipids in the composition can be from about 10% by weight, 15% by weight, 20% by weight, 25% by weight or 35% by weight to about 40% by weight, 55% by weight or 60% by weight, including all combinations of such ranges.

[0079] The compositions of the present invention may optionally include other functional ingredients, such as ingredients that can be readily dissolved, dispersed, or suspended in the compositions. These ingredients may include:

[0080] At least one unsaturated aliphatic tackifier having a weight average molecular weight of less than about 10,000 daltons, such as less than about 5000 daltons, such as from about 1500 to about 4000 daltons. Aliphatic tackifiers generally provide enhanced skin adhesion suitable for spot treatment (e.g., "concealer" formulations). A "tackifier" means a material that enhances surface adhesion and has a glass transition temperature that can be below about 0 °C (as measured by DTA or DSC). "Aliphatic" means a straight-chain, branched-chain, or cyclic hydrocarbon-based compound or material that does not contain an aromatic ring structure. According to certain notable embodiments, the aliphatic tackifier is unsaturated, such as polybutene. Polybutene tackifiers can be made by polymerization of C4 olefins (e.g., mainly isobutene) and can be, for example, free-flowing, viscous with a honey-like consistency, or very viscous semi-solid materials. Such synthetic hydrocarbon tackifiers can have a viscosity between about 1000 centistokes (cSt) and 5000 cSt when measured at 100 °C. A particular aliphatic tackifier is H1500 liquid polybutene polymer available commercially from Ineos Capital of London, England. H1500 liquid polybutene polymer.

[0081] According to certain embodiments, the concentration of the unsaturated aliphatic tackifier in the composition is at least about 10 wt% of the composition, such as about 10 wt%, 15 wt%, 20 wt% to about 20 wt% or 30 wt%.

[0082] Other functional ingredients may include activators for optional clays. Suitable activators are organic carbonates. According to certain embodiments of the present invention, the organic carbonate is a C1-C4 alkylene carbonate, such as ethylene carbonate or propylene carbonate, and most particularly propylene carbonate. As described above, the organic carbonate can be added via the same raw materials as the swellable clay. Alternatively, it can be added separately.

[0083] Other functional ingredients that can be included in the composition include film-forming polymers. A film-forming polymer is a polymer or resin that, for example, leaves a film (e.g., a continuous film) on a substrate after the solvent accompanying the film-forming material has evaporated, been absorbed into the applied substrate, and / or dissipated on or from the substrate. According to certain embodiments, the film-forming polymer forms a conformal coating and / or can be lifted or scraped off with a razor blade and removed as a self-supporting film when tested in a drawdown test, such as a test performed by placing 5 to 10 grams of the material in the center of a Leneta cardstock (black and white opacity cardstock Chart 2812 available from BYK Additives and Instruments of Geretsried, Germany), and using a 3-mil drawdown bar (also from BYK) to spread the material over the entire sheet (8 inches by 3 inches) and allowing it to dry overnight.

[0084] The film-forming polymer can have one or more of acrylic, urethane, ester, vinyl, silicone, or other functional groups. In certain embodiments, the film-forming polymer is a polysaccharide or a protein-based polymer. According to certain embodiments, the film-forming polymer is a vinyl polymer, such as a VP / hexadecane copolymer, which is available from Ashland Global Specialty Chemicals Inc of Wilmington, Delaware as GANEX TM V216 film-forming agent. If present, the film-forming polymer can be present in the composition at a concentration of about 0.25 wt%, 0.5 wt%, or 1 wt% to about 1 wt%, 2 wt%, 5 wt%, or 10 wt%.

[0085] Other functional ingredients that can be included in the composition include other particulate materials (organic, silicone-based); oligomers or polymers such as for thickening / rheology modification, tackifying, or film-forming; preservatives; dyes, fragrances; antioxidants; sunscreens; skin actives including vitamins, etc. Those skilled in the art will carefully select the optional additional ingredients and / or their amounts such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or are substantially not adversely affected by the envisaged additions.

[0086] These substances can be variously selected by those skilled in the art to prepare a composition having the desired properties (e.g., consistency or texture).

[0087] Other functional ingredients that may be included in the composition include surfactants or emulsifiers. Although in certain embodiments, the compositions of the present invention include surfactants or emulsifiers, in certain other significant embodiments, the compositions are substantially free of surfactants and emulsifiers.

[0088] The other functional ingredients may be present in the composition at a concentration of up to about 20%, such as about 0%, 2% or 5% to about 10%, 15% or 20% (including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween).

[0089] According to certain embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises (1) from about 25% to about 70% by weight of one or more lipids, wherein the one or more lipids comprise (a) at least one oil, (b) a high melting point hydroxylated fatty acid ester; (c) at least one wax; and (d) a pasty compound; (2) one or more inorganic microparticles, wherein the one or more inorganic microparticles comprise (a) at least one filler, the at least one filler being present in the overall composition at a concentration of from about 0.5% to about 4% by weight, wherein the at least one filler is selected from the group consisting of silica aerogel, borosilicate, expandable clay, and combinations thereof; (b) one or more pigments, the one or more pigments being present in the overall composition at a concentration of at least about 25% by weight; wherein the one or more pigments include pigments selected from the group consisting of colored pigments, titanium dioxide, and combinations thereof; and (3) from about 10% to about 30% by weight of an unsaturated aliphatic tackifier having a weight average molecular weight of less than about 10,000 daltons; wherein the composition is substantially free of water, boron nitride, talc, mica, bismuth oxychloride, and perlite. The concentration of the pasty compound by weight may be from about 5% to about 12% of the overall composition.

[0090] The composition can be made in different addition sequences. For example, the oil, wax, and solid components (non-whitening fillers and colored pigments and unsaturated aliphatic tackifiers) can be melted to form a homogeneous liquid mixture. Then, trimethylolpropane tristearate and the pasty compound can be mixed at high shear after cooling to about 60 °C until homogeneous. Then, the remaining components (i.e., expandable clay (e.g., BENTONE GTCC V thickener) and preservative / active substance) can be added to the container with stirring at about 60 °C until a homogeneous fluid composition is obtained. Then the composition is cooled to room temperature. Alternatively, the expandable clay can be added together with the oil, wax, and filler.

[0091] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, there is provided a method of treating, caring for, and / or grooming keratin materials by applying the composition of the present invention to the keratin materials in an amount sufficient to treat, care for, and / or groom the keratin materials. According to still other preferred embodiments, there is provided a method of enhancing the appearance of keratin materials by applying the composition of the present invention to the keratin materials in an amount sufficient to enhance the appearance of the keratin materials.

[0092] According to the above preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention is topically applied to the desired area of the keratin materials in an amount sufficient to treat, care for, and / or groom the keratin materials, sufficient to spot-treat, cover, or mask spots, pigmentation discontinuities, or defects associated with the keratin materials, or sufficient to enhance the appearance of the keratin materials. The composition is preferably applied to the desired area once a day as needed and then preferably allowed to dry before contact with clothing or other objects. Preferably, the composition is allowed to dry for about 4 minutes or less, more preferably about 2 minutes or less.

[0093] Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients, reaction conditions, etc. used in the specification and claims are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about". Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical parameters set forth in the following specification and attached claims are approximations that may vary depending upon the desired properties sought to be obtained by the present invention.

[0094] Although the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention but do not limit the scope thereof. Percentages are given by weight.

[0095] Example 1 - The composition of the present invention

[0096] Compositions were prepared consistent with the following ingredients and concentrations:

[0097]

[0098]

[0099] For Examples 1, 2, and 3 of the present invention, the oils, waxes, and solid components (non-whitening fillers and color pigments and unsaturated aliphatic tackifiers) were melted to form a homogeneous liquid mixture. After cooling to about 60 °C, the trihydroxystearin and the paste compound were mixed with high shear force until homogeneous. Then, the remaining ingredients (i.e., the swellable clay (BENTONE The GTCC V thickener) and preservative / active substance) are added to the container until a homogeneous fluid composition is obtained. The composition is then cooled to room temperature. The consistency is such that the composition can be filled into a tube, and the tube can be squeezed to release the composition. Examples 1 and 2 of the present invention do not contain whitening fillers such as mica, talc, perlite, bismuth oxychloride, and boron nitride. The composition is applied to the skin and has a surprisingly comfortable feel, good adhesiveness, appropriate gloss, high skin coverage, and good spreadability / texture when applied. In addition, the examples of the present invention, including Example 2 of the present invention having a very high color pigment concentration, still show high color intensity without providing a whitish tone. Although Example 3 of the present invention still shows a certain whitish tone (especially when titanium dioxide in the composition is increasingly replaced by color pigments), the color intensity is significantly improved compared to the following comparative examples.

[0100] Example 2 - Comparative composition

[0101] As shown in the following table, comparative compositions having the following components and concentrations were also prepared.

[0102]

[0103]

[0104] Additional comparative compositions having the following components and concentrations were also prepared.

[0105]

[0106] For Comparative Examples 1-5, a method similar to the method used for preparing the examples of the present invention was followed.

[0107] Compared with the examples of the present invention, the comparative examples show surprisingly inferior properties. Comparative Example 1 shows caking, high opacity, and dullness. Comparative Example 2 shows high opacity, dullness, and slow spreading when applied. Comparative Example 3 shows slow spreading and a dragging feeling when applied. Comparative Example 4 shows acceptable tactile properties, but when the opaque pigment is replaced with additional color pigments, the color intensity of the sample is poor, i.e., an unwanted whitish tone appears on the skin when the product is used as a concealer. Comparative Example 5 also shows a whitish tone, and in the case of the same formulation in which all titanium dioxide (27% iron oxide, 0% titanium dioxide) is replaced with color pigments, the whitish tone is significantly deteriorated.

[0108] The foregoing description explains and describes the present disclosure. Additionally, the present disclosure has only been shown and described in terms of the preferred embodiments, but as noted above, it is to be understood that the present disclosure is capable of use in various other combinations, modifications, and environments and is capable of changes or modifications within the scope of the inventive concept as expressed herein, commensurate with the above teachings and / or the skill or knowledge of the relevant art. The embodiments described above are further intended to explain the best mode known to the applicant and to enable others of ordinary skill in the art to utilize the present disclosure in such or other embodiments and to make various modifications as are required for a particular application or use. Accordingly, this specification is not intended to limit the invention to the form disclosed herein. Similarly, the appended claims are to be construed as including alternative embodiments.

Claims

1. A composition comprising: At least about 25% by weight of one or more oils; 0.5% to about 4% by weight of one or more fillers, wherein the one or more fillers comprise silica aerogel, borosilicate, expandable clay, and combinations thereof; and At least about 25% by weight of one or more pigments, wherein the composition is substantially free of water.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition is substantially free of fillers selected from the group consisting of mica, perlite, talc, bismuth oxychloride, and boron nitride, and combinations thereof.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the combined concentration of lipids and inorganic particles in the composition is at least about 60% by weight.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising an unsaturated aliphatic tackifier having a weight average molecular weight of less than about 10,000 Daltons.

5. The composition according to claim 4, wherein the unsaturated aliphatic tackifier is polybutene.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the unsaturated aliphatic tackifier is present in the composition at a concentration of about 10% to about 30% by weight.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising a high melting point hydroxylated fatty acid ester.

8. The composition according to claim 8, wherein the high melting point hydroxylated fatty acid ester is trihydroxystearin.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition comprises about 25% to about 70% by weight of lipids, and wherein the composition comprises about 15% to about 60% by weight of inorganic particles.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the lipids and the inorganic particles are present in a weight ratio of lipids to inorganic particles of about 1:2 to about 2:

1.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the composition further comprises wax at a concentration of less than about 5% by weight of the wax.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the one or more pigments comprise at least one colored pigment, and wherein the at least one colored pigment is present in the composition at a concentration of at least about 5% by weight.

13. A method of covering a flaw on a keratin substrate, the method comprising topically applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 to the selected flaw on the keratin substrate.

Citation Information

Patent Citations

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