Production process of shrink-proof wool and nylon blended double-elastic plumetis fabric

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of textile, and discloses a production process of a shrink-proof wool and nylon blended double-elastic plumetis fabric, which is prepared by blending 81% of 90 Australian wool tops and 19% of 30D / 24F high-elastic white nylon filaments, singeing, performing open-width wool washing, performing rope-shaped wool washing, performing double boiling, dyeing, brushing and shearing, baking, decating, scaling, washing, preshrinking, shrink-proof finishing, baking and other after-finishing processes. According to the process, the scaling and shrink-proof finishing procedures are optimized, the shrink-proof performance of the fabric is remarkably improved by adopting a mode of combining an oxidation method and a resin method, and meanwhile, the hand feeling, the luster and the dimensional stability are improved. And the final fabric has excellent physical properties, such as dry and wet friction coefficient 4.5, pilling grade 4.5, steaming shrinkage rate of-0.5% and the like, and meets the requirements of high-end clothes. The problems that a traditional wool fabric is prone to fulling and rough in hand feeling can be effectively solved, and technical support is provided for production of high-end wool blended fabric.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to the technical field of textiles, in particular to a production process of a shrink-proof wool-nylon blended double-stretch thin tweed fabric. Background Art

[0002] Wool fibers possess excellent properties due to their unique scale structure. As the outermost protective layer, the scales protect wool fibers from mechanical friction, chemical attack, and microbial invasion, thereby maintaining the integrity of their internal structure. However, the presence of this scale layer also makes wool fabrics susceptible to felting when exposed to moisture, heat, and mechanical forces. This can manifest as size reduction and deformation, seriously affecting the performance and aesthetics of wool products. To address this issue, wool shrink-proofing technologies have emerged, primarily consisting of oxidation and resin processes. Oxidation damages the wool scales to reduce directional friction and fiber entanglement, but its shrink-proofing effectiveness is limited and may damage the fibers. Resin processes, by forming a resin film or blending binder fibers onto the wool surface to restrict fiber movement, significantly improves shrink-proofing performance, but can also lead to a matted feel and reduced softness. Therefore, achieving shrink-proofing while maintaining a balanced feel remains a pressing technical challenge.

[0003] Furthermore, the dyeing process for wool fabrics presents numerous challenges. The dense structure of wool's scales hinders the diffusion and penetration of dye molecules into the fiber, leading to uneven dyeing. Especially after descaling, changes in the fiber's surface properties accelerate dye uptake, making it prone to defects such as color flakes and spots. Furthermore, the descaling process itself cannot be ignored in its impact on fabric color. Especially when using oxidation descaling, controlling the amount of chlorine not only affects the descaling effect but also directly impacts the fabric's color stability and reproducibility. Therefore, properly selecting the order of dyeing and descaling, as well as optimizing descaling process parameters, are crucial to ensuring the color consistency and quality of the final product.

[0004] In the existing technology, single oxidation or resin methods struggle to simultaneously meet shrinkage resistance and hand feel requirements, and the application of composite processes has yet to fully mature. In particular, in the production of wool-brocade blended double-stretch tweed fabrics, achieving multiple performance improvements, such as shrinkage resistance, pilling resistance, and gloss enhancement, through sophisticated finishing processes while maintaining the fabric's softness and elasticity, remains a technical challenge within the industry. The present invention aims to provide a production process that combines the advantages of oxidation and resin methods. By optimizing key processes such as descaling, dyeing, and shrinkage-resistant finishing, a wool-brocade blended double-stretch tweed fabric with excellent shrinkage resistance and a high-end appearance is produced to meet the needs of high-end clothing. Summary of the Invention

[0005] This invention addresses the shortcomings of existing wool blended fabrics in terms of shrinkage resistance, hand feel, and dimensional stability by providing a process for producing shrinkage-resistant wool-nylon blended double-stretch thin tweed fabric. By optimizing raw material selection and post-finishing processes, particularly the descaling and shrinkage-resistant finishing processes, the process significantly improves the overall performance of the fabric.

[0006] The present invention provides a production process for shrink-resistant wool-nylon blended double-stretch thin tweed fabric. The raw materials are blended from 81% 90s Australian wool tops and 19% 30D / 24F high-stretch white nylon filaments. The addition of the high-stretch white nylon filaments enhances the fabric's strength, crispness, and wrinkle resistance while retaining the natural properties of wool fibers. Furthermore, the post-finishing process includes singeing, open-width scouring, rope scouring, double boiling, dyeing, brushing and shearing, drying, steaming, descaling, washing, pre-shrinking, shrink-resistant finishing, baking, and re-steaming. The process ensures the excellent physical properties and appearance of the final fabric through precise control of the parameters of each step.

[0007] Furthermore, the singeing process uses a double-sided singeing method, with the machine speed controlled within the range of 95-110m / min and the natural gas pressure set at 9-12mbar. This singeing process effectively removes lint from the fabric surface, resulting in a smoother and cleaner fabric. The open-width scouring process utilizes a high-temperature open-width scouring process, with a temperature set at 80-85°C and a machine speed of 5-10m / min. Soft water and neutral or weakly alkaline scouring agents are used to remove impurities and improve the hand feel. The rope scouring process further enhances the scouring effect by applying pressure and adding scouring agents, controlling the pressure of the pressing rollers, and setting the water bath temperature to 42-47°C. The double boiling process uses two alternating boiling tanks at a temperature of 80-90°C for 60-80 minutes to ensure uniform heating of all parts of the fabric.

[0008] The dyeing process utilizes an acid dye piece-dyeing process, strictly controlling the dye bath pH, heating rate, and holding time to ensure uniform dyeing. Specifically, the dyeing process utilizes heat-resistant auxiliaries, adding the auxiliaries first and then the dyes. The brushing and shearing process uses a drum-type brushing machine to comb the fibers, followed by a three-knife shearing device to achieve a smooth surface. The drying process utilizes the hygroscopic expansion and contraction properties of wool through soaking and then drying in liquid to stabilize the dimensions. The decatizing process utilizes a tank steaming method with a steam pressure of 0.7 bar and a processing time of 320-380 seconds to further stabilize the dimensions.

[0009] The descaling process uses an oxidative descaling process with a chlorine concentration of 4.5-8 g / L, a penetrant of 0.5-1.5 g / L, and a fabric travel speed of 8-10 m / min. This process partially descales the fabric through oxidation, ensuring uniform and stable descaling, minimal color change, and directional stability. After descaling, sodium metabisulfite reduction dechlorination is used, followed by washing with clean water to complete the descaling process. The washing process is completed in two steps: first, adjusting the pH to 7-8 with soda ash, then adjusting the pH to 6-7 with glacial acetic acid to remove residual chemical reagents.

[0010] The speed of the pre-shrinkage process is set to 15-25m / min, the steam pressure is 0.3Mpa, and the contact time is 12-20 seconds to stabilize the size. The shrinkage-proof finishing process adopts the resin method and the padding method. The treatment liquid includes 40g / L of shrinkage-proof agent BAP, 40g / L of self-crosslinking agent USV, and 8g / L of sodium bicarbonate. The shrinkage-proof finishing process uses the padding method to evenly adhere the treatment liquid to the surface of the fabric, and then enters the oven for drying. The baking process is carried out at a temperature of 165°C and a vehicle speed of 30m / min to improve the adhesion stability of the shrinkage-proof agent. The steaming process adopts an open steaming process, with a loading capacity of 2 pieces each time, moderate cloth feeding tension, and a smooth cloth surface without creases.

[0011] The technical highlight of this invention lies in the optimized design of the descaling process. This descaling process utilizes an oxidation process, resulting in uniform and stable descaling, minimal color variation, directional stability, and high color reproducibility. Furthermore, the order of dyeing and descaling is chosen to be dyeing first, followed by descaling, reducing the dyeing difficulty while also utilizing high-fastness dyes, effectively mitigating the effect of descaling on color. The shrink-proofing process combines oxidation and resin treatments to reduce chlorine and filler usage, improving shrink-proofing performance while preventing a hardened feel.

[0012] The beneficial effects of the present invention are achieved through the above-mentioned technical solution. The process significantly improves the shrinkage resistance of the fabric and reduces milling during washing and use. After descaling, the fiber surface is smooth, soft and delicate, and has an enhanced gloss. After multiple decatizing and pre-shrinking treatments, the fabric has more stable dimensions and a low shrinkage rate. The dyeing process uses a piece-dyeing process to ensure uniform color throughout the entire piece of fabric and reduce color variations. The fabric has enhanced pilling resistance, making it suitable for high-end clothing and meeting a variety of clothing requirements.

[0013] The physical indicators of the fabric produced by this process are as follows: dry coefficient of friction of 4.5, wet coefficient of friction of 4.5, color fastness to soap and hair of 4.5, color fastness to sweat and hair of 4.5, pilling rating of 4.5, warp breaking strength of 369N, weft breaking strength of 268N, warp tear strength of 10.13N, weft tear strength of 8.92N, warp steaming shrinkage of -0.5%, and weft steaming shrinkage of 0.2%. These indicators demonstrate that the fabric produced by this process achieves high levels of shrinkage resistance, hand feel, dimensional stability, and appearance quality.

[0014] By optimizing the production process, particularly the descaling and shrink-proofing processes, this invention significantly improves the overall performance of fabrics, providing technical support for the production of high-end wool blended fabrics. This process not only addresses the shrinkage and rough feel of traditional wool fabrics, but also achieves comprehensive improvements in physical properties and appearance, promising broad application prospects. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0015] Figure 1 Schematic diagram of the dyeing process curve of the present invention; Figure 2 Schematic diagram of the singeing process of the present invention; Figure 3 Schematic diagram of the process flow of open-width scouring and rope scouring of the present invention; Figure 4 Schematic diagram of the water washing process of the present invention; Figure 5 Schematic diagram of the scaling and shrinkage-proofing process of the present invention; Figure 6 Schematic diagram of the decatizing and baking process of the present invention; Figure 7 It is a schematic diagram of the performance indicators of pre-shrinkage and finished product of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0016] The following will clearly and completely describe the technical solution of the present invention in conjunction with the accompanying drawings. Obviously, the embodiments described are only some embodiments of the present invention, not all embodiments. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by ordinary technicians in this field without making creative efforts are within the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0017] The present invention provides a production process for shrink-proof wool-brocade blended double-stretch thin tweed fabric, Figures 1 to 7 The specific implementation method is described in detail. The following content will expand on aspects such as raw material selection, post-processing process and parameter control of each process to ensure the integrity and operability of the technical solution.

[0018] This fabric is blended with 90-count Australian wool tops (81%) and 30D / 24F high-elastic white nylon filaments (19%). The addition of high-elastic white nylon filaments significantly enhances the fabric's strength and wrinkle resistance while retaining the natural properties of wool fibers. The finishing process includes singeing, open-width scouring, rope scouring, double boiling, dyeing, brushing and shearing, setting, degumming, descaling, washing, pre-shrinking, shrink-proof finishing, baking, and re-degumming. These steps optimize the fabric's physical properties and appearance through precise parameter control.

[0019] The singeing process adopts the method of singeing on both sides, the speed is controlled within the range of 95-110m / min, and the natural gas pressure is set at 9-12mbar. Figure 2 The singeing process is demonstrated. The burner is oriented perpendicular to the fabric's direction of travel using a cutting method. This process removes lint from the fabric surface, resulting in a smoother finish. Natural gas pressure directly influences the power of the burner; excessively high or low pressures can affect the singeing effect, so strict regulation is essential. The speed is carefully selected to balance efficiency and quality, ensuring uniform singeing without damaging the fabric surface.

[0020] The open width washing process adopts high temperature open width washing process, the temperature is set at 80-85℃, and the speed is 5-10m / min. Figure 3 A schematic diagram of the operation of an open-width scouring machine is shown. Soft water is used as the washing medium to prevent the calcium and magnesium ions in hard water from reacting with scouring agents, which can cause yellowing of the fabric or staining during subsequent dyeing. Neutral or weakly alkaline scouring agents are used, added at a level of 2%-4% to prevent strong alkaline components from damaging the wool fibers. High temperatures allow the wool fibers to absorb moisture and expand, then shrink upon drying, improving their feel and stabilizing their dimensions. Furthermore, the removal of impurities such as oil, dust, and residual grease enhances the fabric's purity and whiteness, providing an excellent foundation for subsequent dyeing.

[0021] The rope washing process further improves the washing effect by adding pressure and detergent, controlling the pressure of the pressing roller and setting the water bath temperature to 42-47°C. The washing time for each piece of fabric is 30 minutes and the flushing time is 20 minutes. Figure 3 A schematic diagram of the rope-shaped scouring process is also shown. Appropriate pressure allows the scouring liquid to penetrate the gaps between the fibers more fully, allowing it to fully contact and act on the dirt, thereby improving cleanliness. Simultaneously, pressure helps squeeze out impurities trapped in the fibers, which are then discharged with the scouring liquid. This process also improves the fabric's feel, allowing the wool fibers to better entangle and felt in hot and humid conditions, enhancing warmth and softness.

[0022] The double-boiling process uses two cooking tanks, each heated at 80-90°C for 60-80 minutes. The fabric is wound onto the cooking rollers in a coiled manner, ensuring a flat, non-skewed surface upon initial feeding. During the cooking process, the fabric alternates between the two cooking tanks, cooking for 5-6 minutes each time before being reversed and rewound, a total of four cycles. This design ensures uniform heating across the fabric, eliminates internal stresses, and improves whiteness. After cooking, the fabric cools and exits the machine, providing a stable physical state for subsequent dyeing.

[0023] The dyeing process adopts the piece dyeing process of acid dyes, and strictly controls the pH value of the dye bath, the heating rate and the holding time to ensure uniform dyeing. Figure 1 The figure is a schematic diagram of the dyeing process curve. The dyes used are high-temperature resistant acid dyes with good compatibility. Dyes from the same series are preferred when matching colors. Auxiliary agents include leveling agent PMD, retarder FRN, dye inhibitor and penetrating defoamer FFW, all of which are non-ionic products. Soft water is used in the chemical process, the water temperature does not exceed 40°C, and the stirring time is 10-20min. The order of adding materials is auxiliary agent first and then dye. After adding each auxiliary agent, run for 10-20 minutes before adding the next one to ensure that the dye bath is uniform. The pH value of the dye bath is adjusted to 5-6.5, the heating rate is 0.5-0.7°C / min, and after keeping warm at 70°C for 20 minutes, continue to heat to 90-98°C and keep warm for 30-60 minutes according to the color depth. Rinse with clean water after dyeing to achieve good color fastness. Among them, the dyeing prescription is as follows: Kolanda Yellow K-GLN 0.014% Kolanda Red K-GLN 0.0114% Kolanda Gray K-BLN 0.0355% Sodium sulfate 5% Leveling agent PMD 1% HAC 0.5% FRN 4% Penetrating defoamer FFW 1% During the brushing and shearing process, the fibers are combed using a drum brushing machine, followed by shearing with a three-knife shearing machine, resulting in a smooth and clean surface. The brushing machine evens out the wool fibers, aligning their orientation and reducing entanglement. The shearing machine is equipped with two front and one back shearing blades, and the contact distance between the shears and the fabric is carefully adjusted to ensure a smooth finish on both sides. This process removes overlong fibers, reduces interfiber obstruction during descaling, and improves descaling uniformity.

[0024] The setting process utilizes wool's hygroscopic expansion and contraction properties to stabilize its dimensions by soaking and then squeezing and drying. The fabric undergoes this process on setting equipment, which includes soaking, squeezing, drying, and setting. The high temperature and tension stabilize the wool fibers, ensuring optimal condition for subsequent processing.

[0025] The decatizing process adopts the can steaming method, the steam pressure is 0.7Bar, and the processing time is 320-380 seconds. Figure 6 The decatizing process parameters and flow chart are displayed. The fabric is rolled onto a decatizing cloth, and steam is released from the inside out, then from the outside in, before being exhausted and cooled. This process softens the fibers, facilitating descaling and further stabilizing the fabric's dimensions and flatness.

[0026] The descaling process adopts oxidation descaling technology, the chlorine concentration is 4.5-8g / L, the penetrant is 0.5-1.5g / L, and the fabric speed is 8-10m / min. Figure 5 A schematic diagram of the descaling process shows the composition and flow of the treatment solution. A mixture of chlorine, penetrant, and water is applied uniformly to the fabric through a soaking and spraying process. The fabric is immersed in the descaling solution for 20-30 seconds. After descaling, the fabric is first rinsed with clean water, then dechlorinated with sodium metabisulfite, and finally rinsed with clean water to complete the descaling process. This process significantly improves shrinkage resistance, pilling resistance, and gloss.

[0027] The washing process is completed in two steps. First, adjust the pH to 7-8 with soda ash, and then adjust the pH to 6-7 with glacial acetic acid. Figure 4 The washing process is demonstrated. Fabric is loaded into a drum-type washing machine, the temperature controlled at around 50°C, and washed for 50 minutes before being rinsed. Alkaline washing removes residual chemical reagents, and acid washing adjusts the acid-base environment to protect the wool fibers from damage.

[0028] The speed of the pre-shrinking process is set at 15-25m / min, the steam pressure is 0.3Mpa, and the contact time is 12-20 seconds. Figure 7 The pre-shrinkage process parameters and procedures are shown. This process stabilizes the fabric dimensions through the action of high-temperature steam, preparing for subsequent shrink-proof finishing.

[0029] The shrinkage-proof finishing process adopts resin method and padding method. The treatment liquid includes shrinkage-proof agent BAP 40g / L, self-crosslinking agent USV 40g / L, and sodium bicarbonate 8g / L. Figure 5 A schematic diagram of the shrink-resistant padding process is shown. The machine speed is 10 m / min, the overfeed is 8-15%, and the roller pressure is 0.3 MPa. After padding, the fabric enters the oven for drying, and the width and overfeed are adjusted based on the finished product requirements. This process uses a resin coating to improve shrink-resistant properties and reduce shrinkage.

[0030] The baking process was carried out at a temperature of 165°C and a speed of 30 m / min. Figure 6 The baking process parameters and procedures are shown. High temperature allows the shrink-proofing agent to adhere more stably to the fabric surface, further improving shrink-proofing and dimensional stability.

[0031] The decatizing process adopts open decatizing technology, with 2 pieces of cloth loaded each time, moderate cloth feeding tension, and smooth cloth surface without creases. Figure 6 The decatizing process parameters and procedures are shown. The steam flow and decatizing time are strictly controlled to ensure that the fabric surface is smooth and flat, with a soft and natural sheen.

[0032] The physical indicators of the fabric produced by the above process are as follows Figure 7The dry and wet coefficients of friction are 4.5, the color fastness to soap and hair is 4.5, the color fastness to sweat and hair is 4.5, the pilling rating is 4.5, the warp breaking strength is 369N, the weft breaking strength is 268N, the warp tear strength is 10.13N, the weft tear strength is 8.92N, the warp shrinkage is -0.5%, and the weft shrinkage is 0.2%. These indicators demonstrate that the fabric achieves high levels of shrinkage resistance, hand feel, dimensional stability, and appearance quality.

[0033] The present invention significantly improves the overall performance of fabrics by optimizing the production process, particularly the descaling and shrink-proofing processes. This process addresses the issues of traditional wool fabrics, such as easy shrinkage and rough feel, achieving comprehensive improvements in physical properties and appearance quality, and has broad application prospects.

[0034] While embodiments of the present invention have been shown and described, it will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that various changes, modifications, substitutions, and variations may be made to these embodiments without departing from the principles and spirit of the invention, and that the scope of the invention is defined by the appended claims and their equivalents.

Claims

1. A production process for shrink-proof wool and brocade blended double-stretch thin tweed fabric, characterized in that: The following steps are involved: S1 raw material selection: 90s Australian wool tops accounting for 81% of the total mass and 30D / 24F high elastic white nylon filament accounting for 19% of the total mass are blended to make smooth white grey fabric; S2 finishing process flow: including singeing, open width scouring, rope scouring, double boiling, dyeing, brushing and cutting, drying and setting, steaming, scaling, washing, pre-shrinking, shrink-proof finishing, baking and steaming.

2. The production process of a shrink-resistant wool and brocade blended double-stretch thin tweed fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The singeing process adopts a front and back singeing method, a vehicle speed of 95-110 m / min, and a natural gas pressure of 9-12 mbar; and the direction of the burner in the singeing process is a cutting burning method and is perpendicular to the fabric travel direction.

3. The production process of a shrink-resistant wool and brocade blended double-stretch thin tweed fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The open-width washing process adopts high-temperature open-width washing, the temperature is 80-85° C., the speed is 5-10 m / min, 2%-4% neutral or weak alkaline washing aid is added, and soft water is used for washing.

4. The production process of a shrink-resistant wool and brocade blended double-stretch thin tweed fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The dyeing process adopts acid dyes for piece dyeing, with a heating rate of 0.5-0.7°C / min, a holding temperature of 90-98°C, and a dye bath pH value of 5-6.

5.

5. The production process of a shrink-resistant wool and brocade blended double-stretch thin tweed fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The descaling process adopts an oxidative descaling method, with a chlorine concentration of 4.5-8 g / L, a penetrant concentration of 0.5-1.5 g / L, and a fabric running speed of 8-10 m / min; after the descaling process, sodium metabisulfite is used for reduction dechlorination and clean water washing is used to complete the descaling treatment.

6. The production process of a shrink-resistant wool and brocade blended double-stretch thin tweed fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The water washing process is completed in two steps. The first step is to adjust the pH to 7-8 with soda ash, and the washing time is 50 minutes. The second step is to adjust the pH to 6-7 with glacial acetic acid.

7. The production process of a shrink-resistant wool and brocade blended double-stretch thin tweed fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The shrinkage-proofing process adopts a resin method, and the treatment liquid includes 40g / L of shrinkage-proofing agent BAP, 40g / L of self-crosslinking agent USV, and 8g / L of sodium bicarbonate. The vehicle speed in the shrinkage-proofing process is 10m / min, the overfeed amount is 8-15%, and the roller pressure is 0.3MPa.

8. The production process of a shrink-resistant wool and brocade blended double-stretch thin tweed fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The baking process temperature is 165° C. and the vehicle speed is 30 m / min.

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