Preparation process of soft, stiff, anti-wrinkle and anti-pilling cashmere fabric

Abstract

The invention discloses a soft, stiff, crease-resistant and pilling-free cashmere fabric preparation process which specifically comprises the following steps: S1, dyeing: taking cashmere as a raw material, carrying out loose wool dyeing, dehydrating and then drying the loose wool; s2, spinning, wherein wool mixing, wool combing, spinning and spooling are conducted in sequence, and the wool is spun into yarn; s3, weaving: warping and drawing in the cashmere yarns, and weaving into gray fabric; s4, wet finishing: sequentially carrying out decating, tube sewing, washing, milling, washing, scutching, squeezing and continuous crabbing on the gray fabric to prepare a wool blank; and S5, dry finishing: sequentially carrying out teasel wet fuzzing, steel wire fuzzing wet fuzzing, steel wire fuzzing dry fuzzing and teasel fuzzing, and carrying out fluff after-finishing to prepare the cashmere fabric. By the adoption of the preparation method, damage to cashmere fibers can be reduced, and the cashmere fabric which is fluffy, good in draping sense, good in rebound resilience, soft and smooth in hand feeling and good in gloss is prepared.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to the field of textile fabrics, in particular to a preparation process of soft, straight, wrinkle-resistant and non-pilling cashmere fabrics. Background Art

[0002] When preparing fabrics, raising is often necessary to create a dense, straight nap on the surface. Conventional raising processes typically involve first using steel wire to raise the nap, followed by wet raising with a thorn burr to straighten the nap in a single direction. However, steel wire raising is very fast and can cause significant fiber damage. When using ultrafine cashmere as raw material, the fineness and delicate nature of the cashmere can easily damage the fibers during raising. Summary of the Invention

[0003] The purpose of the present invention is to provide a process for preparing soft, straight, wrinkle-resistant and non-pilling cashmere fabrics, so as to solve the problem in the prior art that cashmere fibers are easily damaged during raising.

[0004] The object of the present invention is achieved through the following technical solutions:

[0005] The present invention provides a process for preparing a soft, straight, wrinkle-resistant and non-pilling cashmere fabric, comprising the following steps:

[0006] S1. Dyeing: Using cashmere as raw material, dyeing, dehydrating and drying the loose wool;

[0007] S2, spinning: sequentially carry out wool mixing, combing, spinning and winding to spin it into yarn;

[0008] S3, weaving: warping and threading the cashmere yarn into grey fabric;

[0009] S4, wet finishing: the grey cloth is sequentially steamed, sewn, washed, shrunk, washed, opened, squeezed, and boiled to form the grey cloth;

[0010] S5, dry finishing, specifically including:

[0011] S51, performing wet raising of the woolen blank and then shearing the woolen blank;

[0012] S52, wet raising with steel wire followed by shearing;

[0013] S53, after drying and decatizing, the wool is raised with a steel wire and then sheared;

[0014] S54, wet the fruit by padding water, wet-raising the fruit, and then shearing the fruit;

[0015] S55, perform post-processing of the fluff, and you are done.

[0016] As an embodiment of the present invention, in step S1, the cashmere is ultrafine cashmere with a fineness of ≤17 μm, preferably ultrafine cashmere with a fineness of ≤14.5 μm.

[0017] As an embodiment of the present invention, in step S1, the temperature for dyeing the loose hair is 75-85° C., and the temperature for drying the loose hair is 50-65° C. By dyeing and drying the loose hair at low temperatures, fiber damage can be reduced.

[0018] As an embodiment of the present invention, in step S2, the combing adopts weak opening and uses a single belt yarn for spinning, which can reduce fiber damage and improve yarn uniformity.

[0019] As an embodiment of the present invention, in step S3, the weaving method includes a double-layer additional warp weaving method, wherein the yarns are arranged according to the specified fabric pattern and density during weaving, the weaving machine filling rate is 70-85%, and the tightness is appropriate.

[0020] As one embodiment of the present invention, in step S4, the shrinking is performed by light pressure and slow shrinking, with a shrinking plate pressure of 1.5-2 bar and a shrinking time of 3-4 hours. Conventional shrinking plate pressure is generally 2.5-3.5 bar, and the shrinking time is about 1 hour. By reducing the shrinking plate pressure and delaying the shrinking time from the conventional approximately 1 hour to 3-4 hours, the fiber felting in the yarn is stabilized, the cohesion between the fibers is increased, and the fabric dimensions are stabilized.

[0021] The shrinking in step S4 adds the grey cloth de-melting and continuous cooking and shaping process, thereby improving the dimensional stability of the product and strengthening the shaping process.

[0022] As one embodiment of the present invention, in step S51, the wet fluffing of the burr fruit is performed by double-cylinder fluffing of the burr fruit, with the two cylinders rotating in opposite directions, one for fluffing and the other for smoothing. The fluffing of the burr fruit using natural plant burrs is gentler than the steel needles used in wire fluffing. This fluffing method is suitable for the initial stage of fluffing, and minimizes fiber damage during fluffing.

[0023] As an embodiment of the present invention, the burr wet raising in step S51, the steel wire wet raising in step S52, the steel wire dry raising in step S53, and the burr wet raising in step S54 are all performed on both the front and back sides of the fabric for 6-8 times.

[0024] The steel wire raising in S52 has a strong wet raising effect, which can lift out the fibers in the fabric. The steel wire wet raising is carried out when the fabric is wet. At this time, the fibers in the yarn are wet, the fiber flexibility increases, and the cohesion between the fibers is lower than that in the dry state. Through the action of the steel wire raising steel on the fibers, the friction between the fibers is reduced during the fiber lifting process, and the fibers are not easily broken, resulting in less fiber damage.

[0025] The steel wire hair raising dryer in S53 has a strong hair raising effect and causes greater fiber damage. However, after the first two steps of hair raising, the yarn surface tends to be more fluffy, which is beneficial to reducing fiber damage during the hair raising process.

[0026] S54 adopts wet raising with burrs, and the natural burrs comb the surface fibers of the fabric to make the direction of the fabric pile consistent.

[0027] As an embodiment of the present invention, in step S5, the dry finishing further comprises: sequentially wet-brushing, squeezing and tenter drying the fabric after wet raising of the burr fruit in step S54.

[0028] As an embodiment of the present invention, in step S55, the step of performing a pile finishing on the fabric includes: ironing and shearing at 200-240°C, and steaming and shrinking after decatizing.

[0029] Through ironing and shearing, the fluff on the surface of the fabric becomes straighter and neater. After steaming, the fabric is strengthened to set the fabric and the fabric density is increased. After steam pre-shrinkage under tension-free state, the surface fluff is fluffy, and finally the fabric is tight inside and loose outside. The fabric has good drape, good elasticity, soft and smooth feel, and good gloss.

[0030] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0031] 1) Low-temperature dyeing and low-temperature loose drying can reduce fiber damage; weak opening and single belt spinning can reduce fiber damage and improve yarn uniformity;

[0032] 2) By reducing the shrinkage plate pressure and delaying the shrinkage time, the fiber felting in the yarn is stabilized, the cohesion between the fibers is increased, and the fabric size is stabilized;

[0033] 3) In the drying and finishing stage, the yarn is raised in four steps, namely, wet raising with burrs, wet raising with steel wires, dry raising with steel wires, and wet raising with burrs. In the early stage of raising, the fibers are raised by double cylinders with burrs, which causes little fiber damage. Then, wet raising with steel wires is used to raise the fibers in the fabric, which has a strong raising effect but less fiber damage. Dry raising with steel wires has a strong raising effect but greater fiber damage. However, the yarn surface tends to be more fluffy after the first two raising steps, which is beneficial to reducing fiber damage during the raising process. Finally, the fibers on the surface of the fabric are combed by natural burrs to make the direction of the fabric fluff consistent.

[0034] 4) In the post-finishing process, the fabric surface is straightened and neatened through ironing and shearing. After decatizing, the fabric is strengthened and the fabric density is increased. After tension-free steam pre-shrinkage, the surface hair is fluffy. Finally, the fabric is made tight inside and loose outside, with good drape, good resilience, soft and smooth feel, and good gloss.

[0035] 5) The cashmere fabric preparation process of the present application can produce a cashmere fabric that is soft, straight, wrinkle-resistant, pilling-resistant, and does not deform after long-term wear. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0036] Figure 1 This is an electron microscope photograph of the cashmere fiber of Example 1;

[0037] Figure 2 This is an electron microscope photograph of the cashmere fiber of Comparative Example 1. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0038] The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to specific embodiments. The following embodiments will help those skilled in the art to further understand the present invention, but are not intended to limit the present invention in any form. It should be noted that, for those skilled in the art, several variations and improvements can be made without departing from the scope of the present invention. These all fall within the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0039] Example 1

[0040] Step 1: Dyeing: Using ultra-fine cashmere with a fineness of ≤14.5μm as raw material, dyeing is carried out at a low temperature of 85℃ and drying is carried out at a low temperature of 65℃ to reduce fiber damage.

[0041] Step 2: Spinning: The dried dyed cashmere is sequentially mixed, combed, spun and wound into yarn. Weak opening is used during combing, and single belt yarn is used for spinning to reduce fiber damage and improve yarn uniformity.

[0042] Step 3, weaving: Arrange the yarns according to the specified fabric pattern and density, and weave them into grey cloth through double-layer additional warp weaving. The weaving machine filling rate is 72%, and the tightness is appropriate.

[0043] Step 4, wet finishing: steaming the grey cloth - sewing the cloth into tubes - washing the cloth - shrinking the cloth - washing the cloth - opening the cloth - squeezing the cloth - continuous boiling.

[0044] 1. In order to improve the dimensional stability of the product and strengthen the shaping process, the grey cloth decatizing and continuous cooking shaping processes are added;

[0045] 2. Through the method of light pressure and slow shrinkage, the shrinkage plate pressure is reduced to 1.6 bar, and the shrinkage time is delayed from the conventional 1 hour to 3.5 hours, so that the fiber felting in the yarn is stabilized, the cohesion between the fibers is increased, and the fabric size is stable.

[0046] Step 5: Drying:

[0047] 1. Raising: Raising creates dense, straight pile on the fabric surface. However, ultrafine cashmere is delicate and fine, so raising can easily damage the fibers. Generally, steel wire raising is used to raise the pile, followed by wet raising with thorns in one direction to straighten the pile. Steel wire raising is faster, but it can cause greater damage to the fibers.

[0048] This application changes the raising method, adopts a combination of raising and shearing, and uses a four-step raising method. The details are as follows:

[0049] The first step: first use the double cylinders of thorn fruit for wet raising. The two cylinders are in opposite directions, one is a raising cylinder and the other is a smoothing cylinder. The natural plant thorn fruit used in thorn fruit raising is softer than the steel needles used in steel wire raising. This raising method is used in the early stage of raising. When raising the fluff, the fiber is less damaged. The fabric is raised 6 times on both the front and back sides, and then sheared to facilitate subsequent raising.

[0050] The second step: the woolen blank after pricking is passed through steel wire raising and wet raising to raise the fibers in the fabric. Steel wire raising and wet raising have a stronger raising effect but less damage to the fibers. The fabric is raised 6 times on both the front and back sides, and then sheared to facilitate subsequent raising.

[0051] The third step: the fabric after wet raising with steel wire is dried and steamed to set, and then dry raised with steel wire. The raising effect is strong and the fiber damage is greater. However, since the yarn surface tends to be fluffy after the first two raising steps, it is beneficial to reduce the fiber damage in the raising process. The fabric is raised 8 times on both the front and back sides, and then sheared, which is beneficial to the subsequent raising.

[0052] Step 4: After the steel wire raising process, the fabric is wetted with water and raised with thorns. The fibers on the surface of the fabric are combed by natural thorns to make the direction of the fabric pile consistent. The front and back sides of the fabric are raised 6 times each.

[0053] 2. The fabric after hair removal and shearing is wet-brushed, squeezed and tenter-dried in sequence.

[0054] 3. Finishing of fluff

[0055] Through 220℃ ironing and shearing finishing, the fluff on the surface of the fabric becomes straighter and neater. After steaming, the fabric is strengthened to set the fabric and the fabric density is increased. After steam pre-shrinkage under tension-free state, the surface fluff is fluffy, and finally the fabric achieves the effect of tight inside and loose outside. The fabric has good drape, good elasticity, soft and smooth feel, and good gloss.

[0056] Comparative Example 1

[0057] Step 1: Dyeing: Use ultra-fine cashmere with a fineness of ≤14.5μm as raw material, dye at 85℃, and dry at 65℃.

[0058] Step 2: Spinning: The dried dyed cashmere is subjected to wool mixing, combing, spinning and winding in sequence to spin it into yarn.

[0059] Step 3, weaving: Arrange the yarns according to the specified fabric pattern and density, and weave them into grey cloth through double-layer additional warp weaving. The weaving machine filling rate is 72%, and the tightness is appropriate.

[0060] Step 4, wet finishing: steaming the grey cloth - sewing the cloth - washing the cloth - shrinking the cloth - washing the cloth - opening the cloth - squeezing the cloth - continuous boiling, the shrinking plate pressure is 1.6 bar, and the shrinking time is 3.5 hours.

[0061] Step 5: Drying:

[0062] 1. First, use steel wire dry fluffing to remove the fluff, 8 times on each side, and then shear. Then use thorn fruit wet fluffing in one direction, 6 times on each side, and then shear.

[0063] 2. Wet-brush, squeeze and tenter dry the sheared fabric;

[0064] 3. Ironing and shearing at 220℃, steam pre-shrinking after decatizing to produce cashmere fabric.

[0065] Effect embodiment:

[0066] The cashmere fabrics prepared in Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 were subjected to pilling test and fiber damage test, respectively.

[0067] 1. Pilling test was conducted according to the circular locus method in the measurement standard GB / T 4802.1-2008, with a pressure of 490CN and 50 pilling times. The results are shown in Table 1 below:

[0068] Table 1 Cashmere fabric pilling test results

[0069] project Measurement standards unit Standard value Example 1 Comparative Example 1 Pilling test GB / T4802.1-2008 class ≥3 4 2

[0070] 2. Cashmere fibers were extracted from the cashmere fabrics of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1, and the fibers were observed under an electron microscope and electron microscope photographs were taken.

[0071] Figure 1 This is an electron microscope photograph of the cashmere fiber of Example 1. It can be seen that the fiber surface is smooth, there are no obvious wrinkles and protrusions on the edge, the scales on the fiber surface are regularly distributed, and the morphology changes little. The cashmere fiber of Example 1 is intact and undamaged.

[0072] Figure 2 This is an electron microscope photograph of the cashmere fiber of Comparative Example 1, in which damaged fibers appear and the scales on the surface of the damaged fibers are destroyed.

[0073] The above describes the specific embodiments of the present invention. It should be understood that the present invention is not limited to the above specific embodiments, and those skilled in the art may make various variations or modifications within the scope of the claims, which do not affect the essence of the present invention.

Claims

1. A process for preparing soft, straight, wrinkle-resistant and non-pilling cashmere fabric, characterized in that: The steps include: S1. Dyeing: Using cashmere as raw material, dyeing, dehydrating and drying the loose wool; S2, spinning: sequentially carry out wool mixing, combing, spinning and winding to spin it into yarn; S3, weaving: warping and threading the cashmere yarn into grey fabric; S4, wet finishing: the grey cloth is sequentially steamed, sewn, washed, shrunk, washed, opened, squeezed, and boiled to form the grey cloth; S5, dry finishing, specifically including: S51, performing wet raising of the woolen blank and then shearing the woolen blank; S52, wet raising with steel wire followed by shearing; S53, after drying and decatizing, the wool is raised with a steel wire and then sheared; S54, wet the fruit by padding water, wet-raising the fruit, and then shearing the fruit; S55, perform post-processing of the fluff, and you are done.

2. The preparation process according to claim 1, characterized in that In step S1, the cashmere is ultrafine cashmere with a fineness of ≤17 μm.

3. The preparation process according to claim 1, characterized in that In step S1, the temperature for dyeing the loose hair is 75-85°C, and the temperature for drying the loose hair is 50-65°C.

4. The preparation process according to claim 1, characterized in that In step S2, spinning is performed using a single belt yarn.

5. The preparation process according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step S3, the weaving method includes a double-layer additional warp weaving method, and the weaving machine filling rate is 70-85%.

6. The preparation process according to claim 1, characterized in that In step S4, the shrinking plate pressure is 1.5-2 bar, and the shrinking time is 3-4 hours.

7. The preparation process according to claim 1, characterized in that In step S51, the wet fluffing of the burr fruit is performed by double-cylinder fluffing of the burr fruit, with the two cylinders moving in opposite directions, one being a fluffing cylinder and the other being a smoothing cylinder.

8. The preparation process according to claim 1, characterized in that The wet fluffing of the burr fruit in step S51, the wet fluffing of the steel wire in step S52, the dry fluffing of the steel wire in step S53, and the wet fluffing of the burr fruit in step S54 are all performed 6-8 times on both the front and back sides.

9. The preparation process according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step S5, the dry finishing further comprises: wet brushing, squeezing and tenter drying are sequentially performed after wet raising of the burrs in step S54.

10. The preparation process according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step S55, the steps of post-finishing the fleece include: ironing and shearing at 200-240°C, and steaming and shrinking after decatizing.

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