A base styling water having a volumizing effect and a method for preparing the same

Abstract

The present application relates to the cosmetic technical field, specifically relates to a kind of with fluffy effect of base styling water and preparation method thereof, especially a kind of can simultaneously realize hair fluffy, oil control and hair care effect multi-functional styling product, comprising: 20-30wt% ethanol, 50-60wt% water, 3-5wt% polyethylene glycol-32, 5-10wt% polyethylene glycol-8, 0.5-1.5wt% silica, 0.1-0.5wt% Norway spruce leaf extract, 0.1-0.3wt% panthenol, 0.05-0.1wt% tocopherol, 0.2-0.5wt% hydrolyzed keratin, 0.1-0.3wt% keratin, 0.1-0.3wt% essence, preservative 0.5-1wt%, 0.05-0.1wt% hydroxyphenyl propionamide benzoic acid.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a styling water with a fluffy effect and a preparation method thereof, and more particularly to a multifunctional styling product capable of achieving the effects of hair fluffing, oil control and hair care at the same time. BACKGROUND

[0002] Traditional hair styling products such as hair gel and hair wax can provide certain styling effects, but generally have the following problems: 1. After use, the hair is stiff and unnatural, lacking in fluffiness; 2. Long-term use can cause dry and damaged hair; 3. When the sebaceous glands secrete too much oil, the styling effect is difficult to last; 4. Most products only focus on styling effects and lack of concern for scalp health.

[0003] Current hair styling products on the market are mainly divided into the following categories, but all have significant defects: (1) Traditional fluffy styling products, the core problem of which is: (1) Strong dependence on silicone oil: Although it can temporarily increase the spacing between hair strands (fluffy effect), long-term use can cause a decrease in scalp permeability and exacerbate sebum oxidation. (2) Stiff and unnatural: polymer film-forming agents (such as hair gel) form a hard film, causing the hair to lose its dynamic feel. (3) High irritability: salt products (such as sea salt spray) can expand hair strands by absorbing moisture and crystallizing, but they can damage the scalp barrier function. (2) Oil control and hair care products, which also have the following problems: (1) Damage to hair quality: salicylic acid (≥1% concentration) can dissolve keratin, but it can cause hair keratin to denature. (2) Single effect: zinc salt only adsorbs surface oil and cannot inhibit sebaceous gland activity. (3) Hair care and repair products, which have the following problems: (1) Surface repair limitations: silicone oil only forms a temporary film and cannot penetrate to the core. (2) Large molecular weight: traditional keratin (>50 kDa) cannot penetrate the hair cuticle and only penetrates to a depth of <10 μm. (3) Poor durability: amino acid repair effects are short-lived, with a retention rate of <30% after 5 washes.

[0004] In the prior art, CN116270358A provides a styling gel with hair conditioning and hair blackening effects and a preparation method thereof. The raw materials include passion fruit extract, rehmannia extract, mulberry extract, cypress leaf extract, eucommia leaf extract, and medlar seed extract. Compared with the prior art, the present invention uses various natural plant extracts and other effective ingredients to complement each other, effectively styling, conditioning, moisturizing, and blackening hair, making the hair more dense and silky, but without damaging the hair quality. Although this technology uses the effects of various plant extracts to achieve styling and hair conditioning, it does not address oil control. CN119548416A discloses a fluffy oil control composition. The invention uses fumed silica, shale oil sulfonate sodium, and octanoyl glycine to form a complex. The three components work together to achieve a synergistic effect of fluffy and oil control, resulting in a three-dimensional and matte oil control effect. The polyethylene glycol-32 and polyethylene glycol-8 can effectively improve the hydration of the hair, to some extent, improve the spreadability of the composition, and help maintain the light and fluffy feeling of the hair. This technology simultaneously achieves fluffy and oil control, but does not consider the protection of the hair and scalp.

[0005] After research, it was found that current market hair styling products have single functions, mainly focusing on fluffy demand (reducing hair adhesion) and oil control demand (reducing sebum secretion), which are physically conflicting. Strong oil control ingredients (such as salicylic acid) and hair care needs (such as moisturizing) are chemically incompatible. Therefore, oily hair users in the current market urgently need a three-in-one product that can simultaneously solve "fluffy + oil control + repair". SUMMARY

[0006] The present invention aims to solve the technical problem of existing hair styling products that cannot simultaneously achieve fluffy effect, oil control, and hair care functions. It provides a multifunctional styling primer.

[0007] To solve the above technical problems, the present application designs the following component system:

[0008] The fluffy system includes: 20-30wt% ethanol, 0.5-1.5wt% silica, with a particle size controlled at 8-12μm to form a porous scaffold; 3-5wt% polyethylene glycol-32, 5-10wt% polyethylene glycol-8, forming a hydrogen bond network to fix the hairstyle.

[0009] The present invention uses the above-mentioned fluffy system, in which ethanol volatilizes to form micro-airflow channels, silica constructs a three-dimensional support structure, and polyethylene glycol forms a reversible cross-linked network. The three components work together to achieve the effect of fluffy styling. Controlling the ethanol content at 25±2% can achieve the best volatilization rate, promote the transdermal absorption of active ingredients, and at the same time avoid excessive defatting.

[0010] Oil control active system, comprising: 0.1-0.5wt% Norway spruce leaf extract, 0.1-0.3wt% panthenol, 0.05-0.1wt% tocopherol.

[0011] The oil control system of the present application uses Norway spruce (Picea excelsa) leaf extract as the core active ingredient, obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction process, rich in 15-20% diterpenoid compounds (mainly abietic acid type resin acid). The extract forms a synergistic system with a specific ratio of panthenol (0.1-0.3wt%) and tocopherol (0.05-0.1wt%): abietic acid in Norway spruce leaf extract can directly inhibit 5-alpha reductase activity, panthenol reduces lipid synthesis by regulating PPARγ signaling pathway in sebaceous gland cells, and tocopherol inhibits lipid peroxidation and reduces oxidative stress-induced sebum secretion. It has been found through experiments that when the weight ratio of Norway spruce leaf extract: panthenol: tocopherol is 4:1:1, the 5-alpha reductase inhibition rate in vitro is the highest.

[0012] Hair care repair system, comprising: 0.2-0.5wt% hydrolyzed keratin, 0.1-0.3wt% keratin, 0.05-0.1wt% hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid.

[0013] The present application innovatively uses a three-level keratin repair system: hydrolyzed keratin with a molecular weight of 800-1200Da and containing 12-15% cysteine residues can penetrate into the cortex layer of the hair to repair broken disulfide bonds, and the reconstruction rate of disulfide bonds after repair is ≥40%; keratin with a molecular weight of about 50kDa forms a network protective film on the hair cuticle to improve the hydrophobicity of the hair; hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid acts as a "molecular glue" to promote the directional arrangement of keratin and enhance the wash resistance of the repair system, with a retention rate of >60% after 5 washes.

[0014] Auxiliary system, comprising 0.1-0.3wt% fragrance, 0.5-1wt% preservative 0.5-1wt%.

[0015] To achieve the above technical purposes, the present application provides a base styling water with a fluffy effect, comprising: 20-30wt% ethanol, 50-60wt% water, 3-5wt% polyethylene glycol-32, 5-10wt% polyethylene glycol-8, 0.5-1.5wt% silica, 0.1-0.5wt% Norway spruce leaf extract, 0.1-0.3wt% panthenol, 0.05-0.1wt% tocopherol, 0.2-0.5wt% hydrolyzed keratin, 0.1-0.3wt% keratin, 0.1-0.3wt% fragrance, preservative 0.5-1wt%, 0.05-0.1wt% hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid.

[0016] Further, the Norway spruce leaf extract is obtained by a supercritical CO2 extraction process, and the abietic acid content is greater than or equal to 15%.

[0017] Further, the hydrolyzed keratin has a molecular weight of 800-1200 Da, and a cysteine content greater than or equal to 12%.

[0018] Further, the keratin is in a beta-pleated conformation, and has a molecular weight of 45-55 kDa.

[0019] Further, the silica has a particle size D50 of 8-12 microns. The silica in this particle size range can better play a supporting role and improve the lofting effect.

[0020] Further, the weight ratio of the Norway spruce leaf extract, panthenol, and tocopherol is 4:1:1.

[0021] The application also provides a method for preparing the base styling water, characterized in that the method comprises the following steps:

[0022] (2) After ball milling pretreatment of the silica, the pretreated silica powder is added, and high-speed shearing emulsification is performed for 10-15 minutes;

[0023] (3) The temperature is lowered to below 30 DEG C, the Norway spruce leaf extract, panthenol, and tocopherol are added, and stirring and dissolution are performed;

[0024] (4) The hydrolyzed keratin, keratin, and hydroxyphenylpropionamidobenzoic acid are added, and low-speed stirring is performed;

[0025] (5) The fragrance and the preservative are added, uniform stirring is performed, and then filtration and filling are performed.

[0026] Further, the high-speed shearing emulsification is performed at 8000-10000 rpm for 10-15 minutes.

[0027] Further, the silica is ball milled to have a D50 of 8-12 microns.

[0028] The application also provides application of the base styling water in preparation of a hair styling product with oil control effect.

[0029] The application also provides application of the base styling water in repair of damaged hair.

[0030] Beneficial effects

[0031] (1) The application first designs a lofting matrix system, an oil control active system, and a hair care and repair system, and through selection and optimization of components, the three systems can be well mutual soluble, support, and play respective effects, so that the three effects of lofting, oil control, and hair care are realized in one product.

[0032] (2) The oil control system of the present application uses Picea excelsa leaf extract as the core active ingredient, which is obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction process and is rich in 15-20% diterpenoid compounds (mainly abietic acid type resin acid). The extract forms a synergistic system with specific proportions of panthenol (0.1-0.3wt%) and tocopherol (0.05-0.1wt%): abietic acid in Picea excelsa leaf extract can directly inhibit 5-alpha reductase activity, panthenol reduces lipid synthesis by regulating PPARγ signaling pathway in sebaceous gland cells, and tocopherol inhibits lipid peroxidation and reduces oxidative stress-induced sebum secretion. It has been found through experiments that when the weight ratio of Picea excelsa leaf extract: panthenol: tocopherol is 4:1:1, the 5-alpha reductase inhibition rate in vitro is the highest. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0033] To better illustrate the purpose, technical scheme and advantages of the present application, the present application will be further described below in conjunction with specific examples. Those skilled in the art should understand that the specific examples described herein are only used to explain the present application and do not limit the present application.

[0034] Example 1

[0035] A base styling water with a fluffy effect, the formula: ethanol 28wt%, water 57.84wt%, polyethylene glycol-32 4wt%, polyethylene glycol-8 7wt%, silica 1wt%, Picea excelsa leaf extract 0.3wt%, panthenol 0.2wt%, tocopherol 0.08wt%, hydrolyzed keratin 0.3wt%, keratin 0.2wt%, fragrance 0.2wt%, preservative 0.8wt%, hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid 0.08wt%, the keratin has a molecular weight of 50kDa and is in a β-fold conformation.

[0036] Preparation steps: mix ethanol, water, polyethylene glycol-32, and polyethylene glycol-8, heat to 42℃ and stir uniformly; pre-mill the silica to D50=10μm, add the treated silica powder, and emulsify at high speed under 9000rpm for 12 minutes; cool to 25℃, add Picea excelsa leaf extract, panthenol, and tocopherol, and stir to dissolve; add hydrolyzed keratin, keratin, and hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid, and stir at low speed; add fragrance and preservative, stir uniformly, and then filter and fill.

[0037] Example 2

[0038] A base styling water with a fluffy effect, formula: ethanol 26wt%, water 59.98wt%, polyethylene glycol -32 3.5wt%, polyethylene glycol -8 8wt%, silica 0.8wt%, Norway spruce leaf extract 0.2wt%, panthenol 0.15wt%, tocopherol 0.06wt%, hydrolyzed keratin 0.25wt%, keratin 0.15wt%, fragrance 0.15wt%, preservative 0.7wt%, hydroxyphenylpropamidobenzoic acid 0.06wt%.

[0039] Preparation steps: mix ethanol, water, polyethylene glycol -32, polyethylene glycol -8, heat to 40°C and stir evenly; silica is ball milled to D50 = 9μm, after adding, high-speed shear emulsification at 8500rpm for 13 minutes; cool to 28°C, add Norway spruce leaf extract, panthenol, tocopherol, stir to dissolve; add hydrolyzed keratin, keratin, hydroxyphenylpropamidobenzoic acid, stir at low speed; add fragrance and preservative, stir evenly, then filter and fill.

[0040] Example 3 (adjust the fluffy system ratio)

[0041] A base styling water with a fluffy effect, formula: ethanol 30wt%, water 55.42wt%, polyethylene glycol -32 5wt%, polyethylene glycol -8 6wt%, silica 1.2wt%, Norway spruce leaf extract 0.35wt%, panthenol 0.25wt%, tocopherol 0.1wt%, hydrolyzed keratin 0.35wt%, keratin 0.25wt%, fragrance 0.2wt%, preservative 0.8wt%, hydroxyphenylpropamidobenzoic acid 0.08wt%.

[0042] Preparation steps: mix ethanol, water, polyethylene glycol -32, polyethylene glycol -8, heat to 45°C and stir evenly; silica is ball milled to D50 = 12μm, after adding, high-speed shear emulsification at 10000rpm for 10 minutes; cool to 25°C, add Norway spruce leaf extract, panthenol, tocopherol, stir to dissolve; add hydrolyzed keratin, keratin, hydroxyphenylpropamidobenzoic acid, stir at low speed; add fragrance and preservative, stir evenly, then filter and fill.

[0043] Example 4 (adjust the oil control active system ratio)

[0044] A volumizing styling primer with formula: ethanol 28wt%, water 57.82wt%, polyethylene glycol -32 4wt%, polyethylene glycol -8 7wt%, silica 1wt%, Norway spruce leaf extract 0.4wt%, panthenol 0.1wt%, tocopherol 0.1wt%, hydrolyzed keratin 0.3wt%, keratin 0.2wt%, fragrance 0.2wt%, preservative 0.8wt%, hydroxyphenyl propamidobenzoic acid 0.08wt%.

[0045] Preparation procedure: same as example 1, but silica ball-milled to D50 = 8μm, high shear emulsification for 15 minutes.

[0046] Comparative example 1

[0047] A volumizing styling primer with formula: Norway spruce leaf extract removed, water amount increased by 0.3%, other ingredients and amounts same as example 1.

[0048] Preparation procedure: same as example 1.

[0049] Comparative example 2

[0050] A volumizing styling primer with formula same as example 1, except that in the preparation procedure, silica ball-milled to D50 = 20μm.

[0051] Preparation procedure: same as example 1.

[0052] Comparative example 3

[0053] A volumizing styling primer with formula: polyethylene glycol removed from the volumizing system in example 1, replaced by equal amount of ethanol.

[0054] Preparation procedure: same as example 1.

[0055] Comparative example 4 (adjusting keratin molecular weight in hair care repair system)

[0056] A volumizing styling primer with formula: same as example 1, but keratin molecular weight adjusted to 35kDa, and in alpha-helix conformation.

[0057] Preparation procedure: same as example 1.

[0058] Comparative example 5 (commercially available ordinary volumizing styling product)

[0059] Product selection: a well-known brand volumizing styling spray.

[0060] Test method

[0061] Hair volume test: Volunteers' forehead hair was scanned by a 3D scanner (accuracy ±0.1 mm), and the scanning data was analyzed to calculate the hair volume change rate; 10 professional stylists were invited to evaluate the hair volume effect blindly, using a 5-point scale (1 point = no volume effect, 5 points = excellent volume effect).

[0062] Oil control test: Using Sebumeter SM 815 sebum tester, the amount of skin sebum secretion before and 4 hours and 8 hours after use was measured on the designated area of the volunteers' forehead, and the sebum inhibition rate was calculated: inhibition rate = (sebum amount before use - sebum amount after use) / sebum amount before use x 100%.

[0063] Hair repair test: The hair scale state was observed using a scanning electron microscope (SEM, magnification 1000 times), and the scale repair rate was calculated; the contact angle meter was used to test the hydrophobicity of the hair surface, and a contact angle ≥ 90° indicated good hydrophobicity.

[0064] In vitro 5-alpha reductase inhibition rate experiment: Enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) was used, human recombinant 5-alpha reductase was used, positive control group (finasteride) and negative control group (solvent) were set, and the sample concentration was 10 μg / mL.

[0065] User satisfaction survey: 100 volunteers were invited to use the product for 4 weeks, and filled out a satisfaction questionnaire (5-point scale), with evaluation indicators including: volume persistence, oil control effect, hair smoothness, drying speed, odor, and irritation.

[0066] Table 1 Test results of each example and comparative example

[0067]

[0068] Volume effect: Example 3 performed best in volume effect, by increasing the proportion of ethanol and silica, and optimizing the content of polyethylene glycol, the hair volume change rate reached 32%, and the stylist score was as high as 4.8 points. This shows that appropriately increasing the amount of ethanol and silica in the volume system can strengthen the role of micro-airflow channels and three-dimensional support structures, and form a more stable hydrogen bond network with polyethylene glycol, thereby significantly improving the volume of the hair. The hair volume change rate of Comparative Example 3 was only 15% after removing polyethylene glycol, and the stylist score decreased to 3.0 points, fully demonstrating that polyethylene glycol is indispensable in building a cross-linked network and maintaining the volume of the hair. In Comparative Example 2, the hair volume change rate was only 26% by adjusting the particle size of the silica ball mill, and the stylist score was 4.0 points, indicating that the silica particle size in the range of 8-12 μm can better play the role of a support and improve the volume effect.

[0069] Oil control effect: The oil control effect of Example 4 is the best, and after adjusting the ratio of Norway spruce leaf extract, panthenol and tocopherol, the 4-hour oil inhibition rate reaches 40%, and the 8-hour inhibition rate is 28%. This is due to the optimized oil control active system, and the synergistic effect of each component enhances the effective inhibition of sebum secretion. Comparative Example 1 lacks Norway spruce leaf extract, and the 4-hour inhibition rate is only 15%, and the 8-hour inhibition rate is 8%, which clearly shows the core position of the extract in the oil control system. The synergistic effect of the extract with panthenol and tocopherol is crucial to reducing sebum secretion.

[0070] Hair repair effect: The repair effect of Example 3 is the best, with a scale repair rate of 48% and a contact angle of 95°, indicating good hair hydrophobicity. The hydrolyzed keratin of a specific molecular weight and the β - folded keratin form an efficient tertiary repair system with the assistance of hydroxyphenylpropylamide benzoic acid, which deeply repairs the scale and improves the hydrophobicity of the hair. The scale repair rate of Comparative Example 4 is 35% and the contact angle is 75° due to the adjustment of the keratin molecular weight to 35kDa and the change of the keratin folding configuration, and the repair effect and hydrophobicity are obviously decreased, which proves that the keratin of a specific configuration and molecular weight plays a key role in the hair repair effect.

[0071] In vitro 5 - α reductase inhibition rate: The inhibition rate of Example 4 is the highest, reaching 78%. In the optimized oil control active system, the ratio of Norway spruce leaf extract, panthenol and tocopherol is more reasonable, which enhances the inhibition of 5 - α reductase. Comparative Example 1 lacks Norway spruce leaf extract, and the inhibition rate is only 30%, which again verifies that the extract is a key ingredient for inhibiting 5 - α reductase activity and reducing sebum secretion.

[0072] User satisfaction: The user satisfaction of Example 3 is the highest, with an average score of 4.5. This is due to its excellent performance in lofting, oil control and hair repair, etc., which meets the comprehensive needs of users for hair styling products. Comparative Example 5, as a commercially available ordinary lofting styling product, has a user satisfaction of only 3.1, which highlights the significant advantages of the product of the present application in comprehensive performance, and better meets the needs of consumers for multi-functional and high-performance hair styling products.

[0073] Through the above experimental verification, the present application achieves the following effects:

[0074] Significant synergistic effect of the system: The lofting system, oil control active system and hair care repair system of the present application are mutually synergistic, and the components in each system play a unique role, which together realizes the multifunctionality of the product. By optimizing the component ratio of each system, the performance of the product in lofting, oil control and hair care repair is effectively improved.

[0075] The key components have clear roles: the Norway spruce leaf extract, the keratin with specific configuration and molecular weight, and the polyethylene glycol, etc. play irreplaceable roles in their respective systems. The reasonable collocation and precise control of these key components are important guarantees for excellent product performance.

[0076] Strong market competitiveness: compared with ordinary products on the market, the multifunctional styling water of the application has obvious advantages in various performance indicators and user satisfaction, and can better meet the needs of users with oily hair for "fluffing + oil control + repair", and has a broad market application prospect.

[0077] Those skilled in the art will understand that the above embodiments are only exemplary embodiments, and various changes, substitutions and changes can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the application.

Claims

1. A base styling water having a volumizing effect, characterized by, consists of the following components: 20-30wt% ethanol, 50-60wt% water, 3-5wt% polyethylene glycol-32, 5-10wt% polyethylene glycol-8, 0.5-1.5wt% silica, 0.1-0.5wt% Norway spruce leaf extract, 0.1-0.3wt% panthenol, 0.05-0.1wt% tocopherol, 0.2-0.5wt% hydrolyzed keratin, 0.1-0.3wt% keratin, 0.1-0.3wt% fragrance, 0.5-1wt% preservative, 0.05-0.1wt% hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid; the keratin is in a beta-fold configuration with a molecular weight of 45-55kDa; the weight ratio of the Norway spruce leaf extract, panthenol, and tocopherol is 4:1:1; wherein the particle size of the silica is controlled at 8-12μm to form a porous scaffold.

2. The base styling water according to claim 1, characterized by, The Norway spruce leaf extract is obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction, and the abietic acid content is ≥15%.

3. The base styling water according to claim 1, characterized by, The hydrolyzed keratin has a molecular weight of 800-1200Da and a cysteine content of ≥12%.

4. A method of preparing the base styling water according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that, It comprises: (1) Mix ethanol, water, polyethylene glycol-32, and polyethylene glycol-8, and heat to 40-45℃ and stir until uniform; (2) Add silica powder and high-speed shear emulsification for 10-15 minutes; (3) Cool to below 30℃, add Norway spruce leaf extract, panthenol, and tocopherol, and stir to dissolve; (4) Add hydrolyzed keratin, keratin, and hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid, and stir at low speed; (5) Add fragrance and preservative, stir until uniform, then filter and fill.

5. The method of claim 4, wherein, The high-speed shear emulsification is carried out at 8000-10000rpm for 10-15 minutes.

6. The method of claim 4, wherein, The silica is pre-treated by ball milling to D50=8-12μm.

7. Use of the styling primer water according to any one of claims 1-3 in the preparation of a hair styling product with oil control efficacy.

8. Use of the styling primer water according to any one of claims 1-3 in repairing damaged hair.

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