Cosmetic composition containing dihydromyricetin

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising dihydromyricetin DHM. Specifically, the present invention belongs to the field of cosmetology, and specifically relates to a cosmetic composition comprising dihydromyricetin (DHM) and at least one emollient selected from the group consisting of isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, butyl levulinate, ethyl levulinate and dimethyl decanamide, which significantly reduces crystal formation of DHM.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing dihydromyricetin (DHM) and a specific oil, the oil of which allows for the effective dissolution of DHM. Background Technology

[0002] A beautiful and attractive appearance is desired by many. Therefore, for skin care, consumers generally prefer to apply beauty products containing active ingredients that deliver beneficial effects to the skin. Various literatures have disclosed active ingredients in beauty products.

[0003] For example, US20230414555A1 discloses the use of dihydromyricetin as an epigenetically active ingredient for cosmetic or dermatological skin care. "The term 'epigenetic' defines all heritable changes in gene expression during meiosis and mitosis that are not themselves encoded in the DNA sequence."

[0004] Epigenetic processes can involve blocking gene expression. Blocked genes are not lost during cell division or inheritance, but are merely inactivated, and can be reactivated with the help of appropriate auxiliaries.

[0005] Cosmetic skin care is primarily understood as strengthening or restoring the skin's natural functions as a barrier against environmental influences (such as dirt, chemicals, and microorganisms) and the loss of endogenous substances (such as water, natural fats, and electrolytes).

[0006] Impairment of this function can lead to the absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or increased colonization of microorganisms, resulting in toxic or allergic skin reactions.

[0007] Another purpose of skincare is to replenish the oils and water lost from the skin due to daily washing. This becomes especially important if the skin's natural regeneration capacity is insufficient. Furthermore, skincare products should protect against environmental influences, particularly sunlight and wind, and slow down skin aging.

[0008] Natural aging of the skin is caused by factors such as endogenous, genetically determined factors. In the epidermis and dermis, aging leads to structural damage and functional impairment, which can also be grouped together under the term "senile xerosis":

[0009] a) Drying, roughness, and the formation of fine lines caused by drying.

[0010] b) Itching, and

[0011] c) Reduced re-fatty formation of sebaceous glands (e.g., after washing).

[0012] Exogenous factors such as UV light and chemical toxins can have cumulative effects, such as accelerating or exacerbating the endogenous aging process. In the epidermis and dermis, exogenous factors particularly lead to structural and functional damage in the skin that exceeds the extent and nature of damage caused by natural aging:

[0013] d) Visible vasodilation (capillary dilation, red blood vessels).

[0014] e) Sagging skin and wrinkle formation.

[0015] f) Localized hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation, and abnormalities (e.g., age spots), and

[0016] g) Increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g., cracking).

[0017] Products for caring for aging skin are known in themselves. They contain, for example, retinoids (retinoic acid and / or its derivatives) or vitamin A and / or its derivatives. However, their effect on structural damage is limited. Furthermore, adequately stabilizing the active ingredient against oxidative degradation presents considerable challenges in product development. Additionally, the use of products containing retinoic acid frequently causes severe erythematous skin irritation. Therefore, retinoids can only be used in low concentrations.

[0018] Epigenetics remains a relatively new field of research in life sciences, yet it has attracted considerable attention in recent years. This is not surprising, as epigenetics examines how environmental factors influence our bodies. It focuses less on further descriptive analysis of the aforementioned morphological changes and more on understanding the underlying molecular-biological regulatory mechanisms. Unlike classical genetics, epigenetics focuses not on changes in the primary DNA sequence, but on the mechanisms of gene regulation. Epigenetics acts as a link between the environment and the genome.

[0019] One of the best-described components in epigenetics is so-called DNA methylation. DNA methylation is a modification of DNA that, in mammals, typically occurs symmetrically at the C5 position of cytosine nucleotides on both DNA strands when the cytosine nucleotide is positioned next to a guanine nucleotide at the 5′ angle (CpG) [Bird, 2002]. The high mutational potential of methylated cytosine nucleotides means that CpG dinucleotides are present in very low proportions relative to the entire genome. Hydrolysis and deamination of methylated cytosine spontaneously leads to the formation of thymine, resulting in TG base mismatches. In contrast, the deamination of unmethylated cytosine to form uracil occurs much more slowly, and because uracil is not a naturally occurring base in DNA, the resulting UG base mismatches are repaired much more efficiently [Coupondre et al., 1978; Jurkowska et al., 2010].

[0020] Despite a high mutation rate, a small number of CG-rich DNA regions, known as CpG islands, exist in the genome. These short DNA regions are defined as 0.5–4 kb in length with an actual CG content greater than 0.65 compared to the expected CG content [Takai and Jones, 2002]. Approximately 70% of all promoters in the human genome are associated with these CpG islands [Saxonov et al., 2006]. These islands are typically unmethylated, which is associated with the transcriptional expression of the corresponding genes. However, methylation of CpG islands is also known to lead to the silencing of specific genes in some biological processes. Examples include the inactivation of X chromosome genes and germline and tissue-specific genes [Bird, 2002; Avner and Hard, 2001; Bird, 1986]. This illustrates the fundamental role of DNA methylation in regulating gene expression and determining cell identity.

[0021] More frequently, however, methylation can occur in regions far from the promoter, such as in repetitive or parasitic sequences, where methylation prevents transcription of these sequences and thus contributes to genome integrity [Yoder et al., 1997; Walsh et al., 1998]. In general, approximately 3–5% of cytosine in genomic DNA is methylated, which ultimately means that approximately 80% of all CpG loci in the genome are methylated [Ehrlich et al., 1982; Gama-Sosa et al., 1983].

[0022] Compared to DNA methylation in healthy cells, numerous studies have demonstrated that DNA methylation patterns in degenerating cancer cells are often altered. For example, there is a growing finding of overall decreased genomic methylation (hypomethylation) in cancerous tissues, primarily due to reduced methylation levels in repetitive elements [Ehrlich, 2002]. This hypomethylation can lead to the reactivation of these transposon elements [Yoder et al., 1997; Wash et al., 1998], thus negatively impacting genome integrity [Gaudet, 2003]. Parallel to overall hypomethylation, hypermethylation of CpG islands associated with gene promoter regions is also observed [Herman and Baylin, 2000; Jones and Bayin, 2007]. This hypermethylation is often accompanied by transcriptional inactivation of genes.

[0023] Because tumor suppressor genes and other structures are affected by this hypermethylation, important cellular mechanisms are disrupted. To distinguish these epigenetic changes from classic genetic mutations, they are called “epigmoid mutations” [Jeggo and Holliday, 1986].

[0024] Beyond cancer research, it has become increasingly clear in recent years that epigenetics is just as important as DNA itself for the development of healthy organisms. Scientific research has also established that the epigenome (the collective term for all epigenetic modifications) is more susceptible to external influences than genes themselves. Epigenetic active molecules act as mediators between the environment and genetic material. It has been clearly demonstrated that external factors can turn genes on and off, thereby triggering phenotypic changes and / or diseases (Jaenisch and Bird, 2003; Bird et al., 2007; Reik, 2007; Feinberg, 2008). Recent studies have also shown that epigenetic changes occur during aging, particularly changes in DNA methylation patterns (Fraga et al., 2005; Esteller et al., 2012; Winnefeld and Lyko, 2012).

[0025] Furthermore, it has been shown that epigenetic changes (hypermethylation) can also be observed during skin aging (Grönniger et al., 2010), which lead to the "silencing" of skin-related genes.

[0026] In order to improve skin condition, it is hoped that the epigenetic changes that occur with age or in certain skin conditions can be reversed, thereby reactivating skin-related genes.

[0027] However, to date, only a limited number of substances with DNA demethylating activity are known. US20230414555A1 shows that dihydromyricetin exhibits inhibitory activity against DNA methyltransferase 1. This enzyme is responsible for the methylation of CpG in the genome and thus maintains the cell-specific methylation pattern. It can be demonstrated that, after treatment with dihydromyricetin, this active ingredient exhibits derivable epigenetic activity in modifying the methylation pattern in skin samples (EPIC analysis). Furthermore, the use of dihydromyricetin resulted in an increase in the expression of age-dependent hypermethylated genes.

[0028] Dihydromyricetin (or (+)-dihydromyricetin; sucrose; (2R,3R)-3,5,7-trihydroxy-2-(3,4,5-trihydroxyphenyl)chroman-4-one) is characterized by the following structure:

[0029] .

[0030] Although the beneficial effects of dihydromyricetin (DHM) have been described in detail before, this ingredient still faces various formulation challenges. For example, DHM is soluble in hot water and glycols. However, it has poor solubility in oily emulsions. Due to this property, DHM is often observed to separate in emulsions, and DHM crystals can be observed in formulations. Crystals can be easily observed using an optical microscope at 10x magnification. This observation was performed after the formulation was stored at 7°C and 30-50% humidity for 14 days post-production.

[0031] Therefore, there remains a desire to find more stable formulations. In particular, there is a desire to find measures to reduce DHM crystal formation. Furthermore, there is a desire to provide measures to introduce large amounts of DHM into cosmetic formulations, especially emulsions, thereby reducing DHM crystallization problems. Summary of the Invention

[0032] The applicant has now surprisingly discovered that the present invention can solve at least some of the aforementioned shortcomings.

[0033] This invention is a cosmetic composition comprising...

[0034] a) DHM, and

[0035] b) At least one emollient selected from lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, butyl levulinate, ethyl levulinate and dimethyldecylamide.

[0036] Surprisingly, the tendency of DHM to crystallize can be significantly reduced in the presence of a specified emollient. This allows for a more stable formulation. Furthermore, a greater amount of DHM is provided in dissolved form. Therefore, a higher skin absorption rate of the active ingredient can be achieved while maintaining the total amount of DHM in the composition.

[0037] Another object of the present invention is the use of at least one emollient selected from lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, butyl levulinate, ethyl levulinate and dimethyldecylamide as a dissolution promoter for DHM.

[0038] Another object of the present invention is the use of at least one emollient selected from lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, butyl levulinate, ethyl levulinate and dimethyldecylamide for dissolving DHM in a cosmetic composition.

[0039] Unless otherwise stated, all weight percentages (wt%) given below refer to the total weight of the cosmetic lotion. Where ratios of certain components are disclosed in the following description, these ratios refer to the weight ratios of the components unless otherwise stated.

[0040] Unless otherwise stated, all tests and measurements are performed under “normal conditions”. The term “normal conditions” refers to 20°C, 10¹³ hPa, and 50% relative humidity.

[0041] In the following description, the terms "according to the invention," "preferred according to the invention," etc., always refer to the uses of the invention, the compositions according to the invention, and the methods according to the invention.

[0042] For the purposes of this disclosure, the term "free of" means that the proportion of the corresponding substance is less than 0.05% by weight. This ensures that any entrainment or impurities accompanying these substances are not included in the scope of "free of" according to the invention.

[0043] The term "skin" refers only to human skin. The term "hair" refers only to human head hair.

[0044] Where viscosity values ​​are given in this disclosure, all values ​​pertain to measurements taken at 25°C in a 150 ml wide-mouth flask (VWR number: 807-001) using a Rheomat R 123 from proRheo GmbH. The Rheomat R 123 from proRheo GmbH is a rotational viscometer, meaning the measuring body rotates within the analyte. The force required to rotate the measuring body within the sample at a specified speed is measured. Viscosity is calculated based on this torque, the speed of the measuring body, and the geometry of the measuring system used. A viscosity range suitable for up to 10,000 mPa·s and a speed range of 62.5 min·s are used. -1 The No. 1 measuring body (product number 200 0191) is used as the measuring body.

[0045] Emulsifiers should be understood as all substances listed under the name "emulsifier" in the 13th edition of the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 2010 (ISBN 1-882621-47-6). Surfactants should be understood as all substances listed under the name "surfactant" in the 13th edition of the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 2010 (ISBN 1-882621-47-6).

[0046] A preferred embodiment of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising...

[0047] a) DHM, and

[0048] b) Lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester.

[0049] A preferred embodiment of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising...

[0050] a) DHM, and

[0051] b) Butyl levulinate and / or ethyl levulinate.

[0052] A preferred embodiment of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising...

[0053] a) DHM, and

[0054] b) Dimethyldecanoamide.

[0055] Regarding the three preferred embodiments described above, it should be noted that the highest solubility of DHM can be achieved using an embodiment containing dimethyldecylamide. Furthermore, in terms of DHM solubility, the embodiment containing lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester remains superior to the embodiment containing butyl levulinate and / or ethyl levulinate.

[0056] According to the present invention, preferably, the total amount of DHM is in the range of 0.01% to 6.5% by weight, more preferably 0.05% to 2.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 2.0% by weight, more preferably 0.15% to 1.0% by weight, and most preferably 0.2% to 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0057] In the case of a composition containing at least one emollient selected from isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, butyl levulinate, ethyl levulinate, and dimethyldecylamide, it is preferred that the total amount of those emollients, based on the total weight of the composition, is in the range of 0.1% to 10.0% by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 0.3% to 6.0% by weight, more preferably 0.4% to 4.0% by weight, and most preferably 0.5% to 3.0% by weight.

[0058] In cases containing lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, it is preferred that the total amount of lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, based on the total weight of the composition, is in the range of 0.1% to 10.0% by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 0.3% to 6.0% by weight, more preferably 0.4% to 4.0% by weight, and most preferably 0.5% to 3.0% by weight.

[0059] In cases containing butyl levulinate and / or ethyl levulinate, it is preferred that the total amount of butyl levulinate and / or ethyl levulinate, based on the total weight of the composition, is in the range of 0.1% to 10.0% by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 0.3% to 6.0% by weight, more preferably 0.4% to 4.0% by weight, and most preferably 0.5% to 3.0% by weight.

[0060] In cases containing dimethyldecylamide, it is preferred that the total amount of dimethyldecylamide, based on the total weight of the composition, is in the range of 0.1% to 10.0% by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 0.3% to 6.0% by weight, more preferably 0.4% to 4.0% by weight, and most preferably 0.5% to 3.0% by weight.

[0061] In the present invention, preferably, the weight ratio between the DHM and at least one emollient selected from lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, butyl levulinate, ethyl levulinate and dimethyldecylamide is in the range of 1:30 to 2:1, more preferably 1:22 to 1:1, more preferably 15:1 to 2:1, and most preferably 10:1 to 3:1.

[0062] For the purposes of this invention, it is also preferred that the weight ratio between DHM and lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester is in the range of 1:25 to 1:1, more preferably 1:23 to 1:10, and most preferably 1:22 to 1:18.

[0063] For the purposes of this invention, it is also preferred that the weight ratio between DHM and the total amount of butyl levulinate and / or ethyl levulinate is in the range of 1:25 to 1:1, more preferably 1:23 to 1:10, and most preferably 1:22 to 1:18.

[0064] For the purposes of this invention, it is also preferred that the weight ratio between DHM and dimethyldecylamide is in the range of 1:25 to 1:1, more preferably 1:23 to 1:5, and most preferably 1:22 to 1:8.

[0065] Furthermore, it is preferred that the composition according to the invention is an emulsion. More preferably, it is an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0066] By definition, the emulsion comprises an oil phase. Preferably, the total amount of the oil phase, based on the total weight of the composition, is in the range of 12% to 35% by weight, more preferably 14% to 30% by weight, and most preferably 16% to 25% by weight. By definition, emulsifiers and surfactants are not part of the oil phase. However, fatty alcohols are considered part of the oil phase.

[0067] Preferred oils that may be included in the compositions according to the invention are selected from straight-chain or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms and esters of straight-chain or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated.

[0068] A preferred ester (which may be hydroxylated) of a straight-chain or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohol having 2-30 carbon atoms and a straight-chain or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 2-30 carbon atoms is selected from hexyl decyl stearate, hexyl decyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isoctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isonononyl isononanoate, isotriadecyl isononanoate, isocetyl isononanoate, isocetyl isononanoate, isocetyl isononanoate, isocetyl isononanoate, isocetyl isononanoate, isocetyl isononanoate, isocetyl isononanoate, isocetyl isononanoate, isocetyl isononanoate, isoethylhexyl laurate, isoethylhexyl isononanoate ... 2-Ethylhexyl stearate, 2-Ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-Octyldodecane palmitate, 2-Butyloctanoate (2-Butyloctanoate), Diisotridecane acetate, Ethyl stearate, Methyl stearate, Propyl stearate, Butyl stearate, Ethyl myristate, Ethyl palmitate, Butyl palmitate, Propyl stearate, Propyl palmitate, Stearyl benzoate, Benzyl palmitate, Benzyl stearate, Palmitate benzoate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Palmitate acetate, n-Butyl stearate, n-Hexyl laurate, n-Decyl oleate, Oleate oleate, Oleate oleate, Oleate mustard oleate, Mustard oleate, Dioleoyl glycol ester, and Dipalmitoyl glycol ester. Isopropyl myristate and / or isopropyl palmitate are particularly preferred.

[0069] Furthermore, preferably, the composition comprises at least one triglyceride. Preferred triglycerides are selected from coconut (Cocos Nucifera) oil (triglycerides (fractionated coconut oil)), Astrocaryum Murumuru seed oil (Astrocaryum sp. triglycerides), C10-18 triglycerides, C10-40 isoalkyl acid triglycerides, C12-18 acid triglycerides, C18-36 acid triglycerides, C8-12 acid triglycerides, caprylic / capric / myristic / stearic acid triglycerides, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, capric / lauric / myristic / oleic acid triglycerides, caprylic / capric / linoleic acid triglycerides, caprylic / capric / stearic acid triglycerides, and ricinoleic acid (Ceraphyllum). RMT (monomalac triglyceride), hydrogenated C12-18 triglycerides, lauric acid / palmitic acid / oleic acid triglycerides, erucic acid / palmitic acid triglycerides, oleic acid / linoleic acid triglycerides, oleic acid / palmitic acid / lauric acid / myristic acid / linoleic acid triglycerides, ricinoleic acid / caproic acid / capric acid / capric acid triglycerides, caprylic acid / capric acid / succinic acid triglycerides and / or jojoba oil / caprylic acid / capric acid triglycerides.

[0070] The further preferred triglycerides that may be contained according to the present invention are natural oils. Preferred natural oils that may be contained include coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, glycine soja oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, camellia oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, rhododendron oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, rapeseed oil, camellia oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter, and shea butter.

[0071] According to the present invention, the composition preferably comprises dioctyl carbonate. In the case of the presence of dioctyl carbonate, it is preferred that the total amount of dioctyl carbonate, based on the total weight of the composition, is in the range of 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably 2% to 8% by weight, and most preferably 3% to 6% by weight.

[0072] According to the present invention, the composition preferably comprises shea butter (Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter). In the case of the presence of shea butter, it is preferred that the total amount of shea butter, based on the total weight of the composition, is in the range of 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably 2% to 8% by weight, and most preferably 3% to 6% by weight.

[0073] Furthermore, preferably, the composition comprises one or more alkanes having 10 to 26 carbon atoms. Particularly preferred is that the one or more alkanes having 10 to 26 carbon atoms are selected from C10-13 alkanes, C12-17 alkanes, C13-14 alkanes, C13-15 alkanes, C14-17 alkanes, C14-19 alkanes, C14-20 alkanes, C14-22 alkanes, C15-19 alkanes, C15-23 alkanes, C16-23 alkanes, and C18-21 alkanes. Most preferred are C15-19 alkanes.

[0074] According to the present invention, the total amount of alkanes having 10 to 26 carbon atoms is in the range of 0.1% to 13% by weight, more preferably 2.0% to 11.0% by weight, and most preferably 5.0% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0075] Furthermore, preferably, the composition comprises one or more alkanes having 28 or more carbon atoms. Among those alkanes having 28 or more carbon atoms, squalane is preferably included in the composition according to the invention. According to the invention, preferably, the total amount of alkanes having 28 or more carbon atoms, based on the total weight of the composition, is in the range of 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably 1.0% to 4.0% by weight, and most preferably 1.5% to 3.0% by weight.

[0076] Other compounds that may be present in the oil phase are selected from further branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms. These alcohols are often also called Guerbet alcohols because they are obtained by the Guerbet reaction. Preferred alcohol oils are hexyldecyl alcohol (Eutanol® G 16, Guerbitol® T 16), octyldodecyl alcohol (Eutanol® G, Guerbitol® 20), and 2-ethylhexanol.

[0077] The other compounds preferably included are selected from addition products of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units with mono- or poly-C8-22 alkanols (e.g., octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristol, and stearyl alcohol), such as PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3 myristyl ether (Witconol® APM).

[0078] Other compounds that may be contained in the compositions according to the invention are selected from addition products of at least six ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units with mono- or poly-C3-22 alkanols (e.g., butanol, butanediol, myristol, and stearyl alcohol), such as PPG-14 butyl ether (Ucon Fluid® AP), PPG-9 butyl ether (Breox® B25), PPG-10 butanediol (Macol® 57), and PPG-15 stearyl ether (Arlamol® E).

[0079] The other preferred compounds are selected from C8-C22 fatty alcohol esters of mono- or poly-C2-C7 hydroxycarboxylic acids, particularly esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, and salicylic acid. Such esters based on straight-chain C14 / 15 alkanols, such as C12-C15 alkyl lactates, and those based on 2-position branched C12 / 13 alkanols, are available under the trade name Cosmacol® from Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH & Co., Hamburg, particularly the commercial products Cosmacol® ESI, Cosmacol® EMI, and Cosmacol® ETI.

[0080] The compositions according to the invention may further comprise one or more fatty alcohols having 14 to 20 carbon atoms. Among those fatty alcohols, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and the corresponding mixtures of cetearyl alcohol are most preferred. In the case where the composition contains one or more fatty alcohols having 14 to 20 carbon atoms, it is preferred that the total weight of the fatty alcohols having 14 to 20 carbon atoms is in the range of 0.1% to 6% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 5.0% by weight, and most preferably 1.5% to 4.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0081] According to the present invention, the composition comprises 0.05% to 1% by weight of at least one polymer selected from xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotinia gum and dehydroxanthan gum, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0082] Particularly preferred is the presence of at least xanthan gum. Furthermore, particularly preferred is the presence of at least gellan gum. Furthermore, particularly preferred is the presence of at least sclerotinia gum. Furthermore, particularly preferred is the presence of at least dehydroxanthan gum.

[0083] Advantageously, the composition comprises 0.01% to 0.8% by weight, more preferably 0.05% to 0.3% by weight, and most preferably 0.1% to 0.2% by weight of at least one polymer selected from xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotinia gum, and dehydroxanthan gum, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0084] The optimal combination is xanthan gum and sclerotinia gum.

[0085] Furthermore, preferably, the compositions according to the invention also comprise short-chain polyols containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms. Preferred polyols of this type are butanediol, glycerol, propylene glycol, pentanediol, butanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-heptanediol, 1,2-propylene glycol, methylpropylene glycol, and octanediol.

[0086] Preferably, the content of the preferred polyols is in the range of 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably 1% to 9% by weight, and most preferably 1.5% to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0087] Furthermore, preferably, the composition comprises phenoxyethanol and / or ethylhexylglycerin.

[0088] In cases containing phenoxyethanol, it is preferred that the total amount of phenoxyethanol is in the range of 0.1% to 0.8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0089] In cases where ethylhexylglycerin is present, it is preferred that the total amount of ethylhexylglycerin is in the range of 0.1% to 1.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0090] Furthermore, it is preferred that the composition contains hydroxyacetophenone. In the case of the presence of hydroxyacetophenone, it is preferred that the total amount of hydroxyacetophenone is in the range of 0.1% to 0.8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0091] Furthermore, according to the present invention, it is preferred to contain at least one nonionic emulsifier. Preferred nonionic emulsifiers are selected from oleyl alcohol polyether-20, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE, glyceryl citrate stearate, and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil. In the case of containing at least one nonionic emulsifier, it is preferred that the total amount of the nonionic emulsifier, based on the total weight of the composition, is in the range of 0.2% to 4.0% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 3.0% by weight, and most preferably 1.3% to 2.8% by weight.

[0092] Furthermore, preferably, the composition contains at least one anionic emulsifier. Among well-known anionic emulsifiers (see the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook), sodium stearoyl glutamate is preferably included in the composition according to the invention. In the case of containing at least one anionic emulsifier, preferably, the total amount of the anionic emulsifier is in the range of 0.1 wt% to 4.0 wt%, more preferably 0.2 wt% to 3.0 wt%, and most preferably 0.3 wt% to 2.8 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition. In the case of containing sodium stearoyl glutamate, preferably, the total amount of sodium stearoyl glutamate is in the range of 0.1 wt% to 4.0 wt%, more preferably 0.2 wt% to 3.0 wt%, and most preferably 0.3 wt% to 2.8 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0093] According to a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises citric acid and / or sodium citrate.

[0094] Furthermore, according to the present invention, it is preferred that the composition contains a complexing agent selected from ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and / or trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate.

[0095] Furthermore, it is preferred that the composition contains water. In the case of water content, it is preferred that the total amount of water, based on the total weight of the composition, is in the range of 50.0% to 80.0% by weight, more preferably 55.0% to 75.0% by weight, and most preferably 60.0% to 70.0% by weight.

[0096] The compositions of the present invention may also contain active ingredients that may have beneficial effects on human skin. Preferred examples of such active ingredients are glycyrrhetinic acid, arctiin, folic acid, coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone), α-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, caffeine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavones, glyceryl glucose, creatine, creatine anhydride, taurine, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, vitamin C, vitamin C phosphate, vitamin C palmitate, niacinamide, vitamin A palmitate, retinol, panthenol, glycyrrhiza inflata root extract, glycyrrhizin A, 4-butylresorcinol, N-[(2,4-dihydroxyphenyl)thiazol-2-yl]isobutyramide, and magnolol and magnolol (also as a component of magnolia bark extract), hyaluronic acid and / or silymarin. Detailed Implementation

[0097] Example

[0098] The following examples are intended to illustrate the compositions of the present invention; however, they are not intended to limit the invention to these examples. The values ​​in the examples are weight percentages based on the total weight of the compositions.

[0099] To provide formulations free from crystal formation issues, the following solubility tests were performed. For this purpose, the dissolution of DHM in various oils under normal conditions was attempted. The total oil solubility is listed in the table below. For cases where DHM is insoluble, the observations are presented in Table 1. For cases where at least some DHM is soluble, the highest soluble concentrations are shown in Table 1.

[0100] Table 1

[0101]

[0102] It can be noted that the components according to the invention are capable of dissolving DHM. By incorporating the combinations of the invention, the formation of DHM needles in cosmetic compositions can be reduced / avoided. This is significant in the following compositions listed in Tables 2-6. Therefore, the choice of oil allows for the provision of excellent cosmetic compositions containing DHM. This observation was performed after the formulation was stored at 7°C and 30-50% humidity for 14 days post-production. The observation was performed by examining the formulation at 10x magnification using an optical microscope.

[0103] Table 2

[0104]

[0105] Table 3

[0106]

[0107] Table 4

[0108]

[0109] Table 5

[0110]

[0111] Table 6

[0112]

[0113] References

[0114] Avner, P. and E. Heard (2001): X-chromosome inactivation: counting, choice and initiation, Nat Rev Genet, 2(1): p. 59-67.

[0115] Bird, AP (1986): CpG-rich islands and the function of DNA methylation, Nature, 321(6067):209-13. doi: 10.1038 / 321209a0.

[0116] Bird, A. (2002): DNA methylation patterns and epigenetic memory, Genes Dev, 1;16(1):6-21. doi: 10.1101 / gad.947102.

[0117] Bird, A. (2007): Perceptions of epigenetics, Nature, 447(7143): p. 396-8.

[0118] Coulondre, C. et al. (1978): Molecular basis of base substitution hotspots in Escherichia coli, Nature, 274(5673): p. 775-80.

[0119] Ehrlich, M. et al. (1982): Amount and distribution of 5-methylcytosine in human DNA from different types of tissues of cells, Nucleic Acids Res, 10(8): p. 2709-21.

[0120] Ehrlich, M. (2002): DNA methylation in cancer: too much, but also too little, Oncogene, 21(35): p. 5400-13.

[0121] Feinberg, AP (2008): Epigenetics at the epicenter of modern medicine, JAMA, 19;299(11):1345-50. doi: 10.1001 / jama.299.11.1345.

[0122] Fraga, MF et al. (2005): Epigenetic differences arise during the lifetime of monozygotic twins, ProcNatl Acad Sci USA, 102(30): p. 10604-9.

[0123] Gama-Sosa, MA et al. (1983): Tissue-specific differences in DNA methylation in various mammals, BiochimBiophys Acta, 740(2): p. 212-9.

[0124] Gaudet, F. et al. (2003): Induction of tumors in mice by genomic hypomethylation, Science, 300(5618): p. 489-92.

[0125] Gronniger, E., Weber, B., Heil, O., Peters, N., Stab, F., Wenck, H. et al. (2010): Aging and chronicsun exposure cause distinct epigenetic changes in human skin, PLoS Genet. 6, e1000971. doi:10.1371 / journal.pgen.1000971.

[0126] Herman, JG and SB Baylin (2000): Promoter-region hypermethylation and gene silencing in human cancer, Curr Top Microbiol Immunol, 249: p. 35-54.

[0127] Jaenisch, R. and A. Bird (2003): Epigenetic regulation of gene expression: how the genome integrates intrinsic and environmental signals, Nat Genet, 33 Suppl: p. 245-54.

[0128] Jeggo, PA and R. Holliday (1986): Azacytidine-induced reactivation of a DNA repair gene in Chinese hamster ovary cells, Mol Cell Biol, 6(8): p. 2944-9.

[0129] Jones, PA and SB Baylin (2007): The epigenomics of cancer, Cell, 128(4): p. 683-92.

[0130] Jurkowska, RZ, TP Jurkowski and A. Jeltsch (2011): Structure and Function of Mammalian DNA Methyltransferases, Chembiochem. 24;12(2):206-22. doi: 10.1002 / cbic.201000195.

[0131] Reik, W. (2007): Stability and flexibility of epigenetic gene regulation in mammalian development, Nature, 447(7143): p. 425-32.

[0132] Saxonov, S., P. Berg and DL Brutlag (2006): A genome-wide analysis of CpG dinucleotides in the human genome distinguishes two distinct classes of promoters, Proc Natl Acad Sci USA, 103(5): p. 1412-7.

[0133] Takai, D. and PA Jones (2002): Comprehensive analysis of CpG islands in human chromosomes 21 and 22, ProcNatl Acad Sci USA, 99(6): p. 3740-5.

[0134] Walsh, CP, JR Chaillet and TH Bestor (1998): Transcription of IAP endogenous retroviruses is constrained by cytosine methylation, Nat Genet, 1998. 20(2): p. 116-7.

[0135] Winnefeld, M. and Frank Lyko (2012): The aging epigenome: DNA methylation from the cradle to the grave, Genome Biol 30;13(7):165. doi: 10.1186 / gb4033.

[0136] Yoder, JA, CP Walsh and TH Bestor (1997): Cytosine methylation and the ecology of intragenomic parasites, Trends Genet, 13(8): p. 335-40.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising a) Dihydromyricetin (DHM), and b) At least one emollient selected from lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, butyl levulinate, ethyl levulinate and dimethyldecylamide.

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that, The total amount of DHM, based on the total weight of the composition, is in the range of 0.01 wt% to 6.5 wt%, preferably 0.05 wt% to 2.5 wt%, more preferably 0.1 wt% to 2.0 wt%, more preferably 0.15 wt% to 1.0 wt%, and most preferably 0.2 wt% to 0.5 wt%.

3. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, Based on the total weight of the composition, the total amount of those emollients in b) is in the range of 0.1% to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.2% to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 0.3% to 6.0% by weight, more preferably 0.4% to 4.0% by weight, and most preferably 0.5% to 3.0% by weight.

4. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, Containing lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, it is preferred that the total amount of lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, based on the total weight of the composition, is in the range of 0.1% to 10.0% by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 0.3% to 6.0% by weight, more preferably 0.4% to 4.0% by weight, and most preferably 0.5% to 3.0% by weight.

5. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, The composition contains butyl levulinate and / or ethyl levulinate, and preferably, the total amount of butyl levulinate and / or ethyl levulinate is in the range of 0.1% to 10.0% by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 0.3% to 6.0% by weight, more preferably 0.4% to 4.0% by weight, and most preferably 0.5% to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

6. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, Containing dimethyldecylamide, it is preferred that the total amount of dimethyldecylamide is in the range of 0.1% to 10.0% by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 0.3% to 6.0% by weight, more preferably 0.4% to 4.0% by weight, and most preferably 0.5% to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The weight ratio of the DHM to at least one emollient selected from lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, butyl levulinate, ethyl levulinate, and dimethyldecylamide is in the range of 1:30 to 2:1, preferably 1:22 to 1:1, more preferably 15:1 to 2:1, and most preferably 10:1 to 3:

1.

8. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The weight ratio between DHM and lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester is in the range of 1:25 to 1:1, preferably 1:23 to 1:10, and more preferably 1:22 to 1:

18.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 1-7, characterized in that, The weight ratio between DHM and the total amount of butyl levulinate and / or ethyl levulinate is in the range of 1:25 to 1:1, preferably 1:23 to 1:10, and more preferably 1:22 to 1:

18.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1-7, characterized in that, The weight ratio between DHM and dimethyldecylamide is in the range of 1:25 to 1:1, preferably 1:23 to 1:5, and more preferably 1:22 to 1:

8.

11. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The composition is an emulsion.

12. The composition according to claim 11, characterized in that, The emulsion contains an oil phase, and preferably, the total amount of the oil phase is in the range of 12% to 35% by weight, more preferably 14% to 30% by weight, and most preferably 16% to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

13. Use of at least one emollient selected from lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, butyl levulinate, ethyl levulinate and dimethyldecylamide as a dissolution promoter for DHM.

14. Use of at least one emollient selected from lauroyl sarcosine isopropyl ester, butyl levulinate, ethyl levulinate and dimethyldecylamide for dissolving DHM in a cosmetic composition.

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