Yarn-dyed woven fabric adopting silk spandex air covering technology

Abstract

The invention relates to a yarn-dyed woven fabric adopting a silk spandex air covering technology, and belongs to the field of yarn-dyed woven fabrics. 22D3 strands of silk, 6A cooked silk and 30D spandex are adopted, and the texture is 2 / 2 twill; wherein the weft yarn processing procedure comprises the steps of raw yarn preparation, loose spooling, dyeing, tight spooling, empty covering and tight spooling in sequence; the processing procedures for the warp yarns are as follows in sequence: grey yarn warping, warp beam dyeing, slashing, denting, weaving and beating-up and checking; the finishing process sequentially comprises singeing, jig dyeing and desizing, drying, dry setting, pre-tentering, liquid ammonia treatment, non-ironing treatment, baking, jig dyeing, tentering, calendaring and preshrinking. The obtained silk composite woven fabric is not prone to generating bumps, and the elastic preparation method of the silk composite woven fabric has the advantages of being not prone to yarn breakage, few in defect and high in production efficiency; liquid ammonia is superposed, and the non-ironing process has the advantages of good crease resistance, good dimensional stability and guarantee of stable elasticity of the fabric.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to a yarn-dyed woven fabric incorporating silk spandex hollow-packing technology, belonging to the field of yarn-dyed woven fabrics. Background Technology

[0002] In response to people's demand for natural and comfortable clothing fabrics, silk products have become increasingly popular, and enhancing the elasticity and comfort of silk-containing fabrics has become a new direction for improvement. Adding spandex to the soft and fine silk to give it elasticity can lead to a tight and stiff feel to the silk fabric if the silk and spandex are wrapped, core-wrapped, or twisted together, resulting in a loss of comfort and the high-end texture of silk fabric's smooth drape. Summary of the Invention

[0003] Based on the problems described in the background, the problem that this invention aims to solve is:

[0004] How to create fabrics that combine the smooth, draping texture of silk with elasticity.

[0005] To achieve the above objectives, the present invention provides the following technical solution:

[0006] A yarn-dyed woven fabric incorporating silk-spandex air-filling technology uses 22D 3-ply silk (6A undried silk) and 30D spandex in a 2 / 2 twill weave. The weft yarn processing steps are as follows: raw silk, loose winding, dyeing, tight winding, air-filling, and tight winding. The warp yarn processing steps are as follows: raw yarn warping, warp beam dyeing, sizing, reed threading, weaving, and inspection. The finishing processes are as follows: singeing, desizing with dyeing, drying, dry setting, pre-stretching, liquid ammonia treatment, wrinkle-free treatment, baking, dyeing with dyeing, stretching, calendering, and pre-shrinking. Because the fabric itself is a high-count, fine, and soft variety, production is challenging. Dyeing with dyeing and desizing ensures a more comfortable hand feel, while liquid ammonia and wrinkle-free treatment enhance wrinkle resistance, achieving a wrinkle-free rating of 3.0 (AATCC 124-2018t). Simultaneously, it effectively sets the fabric's elasticity, ensuring stable width and density. Simultaneously, the liquid ammonia treatment alters the fiber properties, making the fiber cross-section smoother and enhancing the overall luster of the fabric.

[0007] Preferably, in the weft yarn dyeing process, the silk is dyed with reactive dyes, and the dyeing process is carried out at 60℃ for 40 minutes.

[0008] Preferably, the empty package uses a WF-10A type Weifeng empty package machine with a speed of 350m / min, a pressure of 4.5MPa, a middle roller tension of 3CN, a lower roller tension of 1.6CN, a guide frame tensioner of 8CN, and 4 winding turns.

[0009] Preferably, the fabric is woven using a rapier loom with a speed of 400 r / min and a weaving efficiency of 70-75%.

[0010] Preferably, the empty-packing machine uses a circular Swiss nozzle with a spray diameter of 1.4mm. Compared to a 1.2mm nozzle, this provides a larger airflow, making it less likely for the network knots formed by the silk and 30D spandex to unravel. Furthermore, when the weaving dots are dense, the yarn network knots are also dense, resulting in a soft and supple finished fabric. The Swiss nozzle offers more stable airflow and a more uniform network knot compared to ordinary nozzles. Uneven yarn formation after empty packing can lead to problems such as yarn breakage and uneven fabric surface during weaving.

[0011] This invention preserves the smooth luster of silk by selecting an empty-bundle yarn forming method. Soft, high-count cotton and high-count Tencel are interwoven with silk, and various parameters related to the empty-bundle process are controlled during the elastic fabric processing of both silk and fine-denier spandex yarns. Simultaneously, the finishing process is optimized, and liquid ammonia is added for wrinkle-free treatment.

[0012] The beneficial effects of this invention are:

[0013] The silk composite woven fabric obtained by this invention is less prone to bulging. Its elasticity preparation method has the advantages of less filament breakage, fewer defects, and high production efficiency. It possesses the silky feel of silk, a high-end quality, and a smooth, lustrous surface. The addition of liquid ammonia and wrinkle-free processes provides excellent wrinkle resistance and good dimensional stability, ensuring stable fabric elasticity. Detailed Implementation

[0014] Example 1

[0015] The warp uses 80S Tencel, the weft uses 22D 3-ply silk, preferably 30D spandex, the weave is 2 / 2 twill, and the finishing process uses liquid ammonia for wrinkle-free treatment.

[0016] The main processing steps are as follows: the weft yarn processing steps are as follows: raw yarn → loose winding → dyeing → tight winding → empty wrapping → tight winding.

[0017] The warp yarn processing steps are as follows: warping of raw yarn → dyeing of warp beams → sizing → reed threading → weaving and weft beating → inspection.

[0018] The weft yarn silk dyeing process uses reactive dyes and the dyeing process is carried out at 60℃ for 40 minutes.

[0019] The WF-10A Weifeng air coating machine used in the air coating machine has a speed of 350m / min, a pressure of 4.5MPa, a middle roller tension of 3CN, a lower roller tension of 1.6CN, a guide frame tensioner of 8CN, and 4 winding turns.

[0020] A circular Swiss nozzle with a spray diameter of 1.4mm is selected. The airflow from this nozzle is stable, making it difficult for the network knots formed by the silk and 30D spandex to unravel.

[0021] The empty draw ratio of silk and spandex is selected as 2.6.

[0022] The fabric is woven on a rapier loom with a speed of 400 r / min and a weaving efficiency of 70%.

[0023] The finishing process is as follows: singeing → roll dyeing and desizing → drying → dry setting → pre-stretching → liquid ammonia → wrinkle-free → baking → roll dyeing → stretching → calendering → pre-shrinking. Because the fabric itself is a high-count, fine, and soft variety, production is challenging. Roll dyeing and desizing are used to ensure a more comfortable hand feel. Liquid ammonia and wrinkle-free treatment enhance wrinkle resistance, achieving a wrinkle-free rating of 3.0 (AATCC 124-2018t). Simultaneously, it effectively sets the fabric's elasticity, ensuring stable width and density. Furthermore, the liquid ammonia treatment alters the fiber properties, smoothing the fiber cross-section and enhancing the overall luster of the fabric.

[0024] The test method for the finished fabric is FZ / T 01034-2008, and the actual values ​​are: elasticity 23.3, recovery rate: 69.2%, and residual rate: 7.7%.

[0025] The wrinkle-free property test method is AATCC 124-2018t, and the actual grade is 3.0.

[0026] Example 2

[0027] The warp uses 80S Tencel, the weft uses 22D 3-ply silk, preferably 30D spandex, the weave is 2 / 2 twill, and the finishing process uses liquid ammonia for wrinkle-free treatment.

[0028] The main processing steps are as follows: the weft yarn processing steps are as follows: raw yarn → loose winding → dyeing → tight winding → empty wrapping → tight winding.

[0029] The warp yarn processing steps are as follows: warping of raw yarn → dyeing of warp beams → sizing → reed threading → weaving and weft beating → inspection.

[0030] The weft yarn silk dyeing process uses reactive dyes and the dyeing process is carried out at 60℃ for 40 minutes.

[0031] The WF-10A Weifeng air coating machine used in the air coating machine has a speed of 350m / min, a pressure of 4.5MPa, a middle roller tension of 3CN, a lower roller tension of 1.6CN, a guide frame tensioner of 8CN, and 4 winding turns.

[0032] A circular Swiss nozzle with a spray diameter of 1.4mm is selected. The airflow from this nozzle is stable, making it difficult for the network knots formed by the silk and 30D spandex to unravel.

[0033] The empty draw ratio of silk and spandex is selected as 2.6.

[0034] The fabric is woven on a rapier loom with a speed of 400 r / min and a weaving efficiency of 75%.

[0035] The finishing process is as follows: singeing → roll dyeing and desizing → drying → dry setting → pre-stretching → liquid ammonia → wrinkle-free → baking → roll dyeing → stretching → calendering → pre-shrinking. Because the fabric itself is a high-count, fine, and soft variety, production is challenging. Roll dyeing and desizing are used to ensure a more comfortable hand feel. Liquid ammonia and wrinkle-free treatment enhance wrinkle resistance, achieving a wrinkle-free rating of 3.0 (AATCC 124-2018t). Simultaneously, it effectively sets the fabric's elasticity, ensuring stable width and density. Furthermore, the liquid ammonia treatment alters the fiber properties, smoothing the fiber cross-section and enhancing the overall luster of the fabric.

[0036] The elasticity test method for the finished fabric is FZ / T 01034-2008, and the actual values ​​are: elongation: 22.1%, recovery rate: 64.5%, and residual rate: 8.2%. The wrinkle-resistant test method is AATCC 124-2018t, and the actual grade is 3.0.

[0037] The draft ratio of the air-covered yarn in this invention is reasonably designed. The draft ratio of spandex yarn has a significant impact on the performance of the covered yarn. As the draft ratio of spandex yarn increases, better elastic spandex air-covered yarn can be obtained. However, if the draft ratio is too high, it will affect the elasticity of the yarn and the covering effect, and the core may be exposed.

Claims

1. A yarn-dyed woven fabric incorporating silk-spandex hollow-pack technology, characterized in that, The fabric uses 22D 3-ply silk, 6A undried silk, and 30D spandex, with a 2 / 2 twill weave. The weft yarn processing steps are as follows: raw silk, loose winding, dyeing, tight winding, empty wrapping, and tight winding. The warp yarn processing steps are as follows: raw yarn warping, warp beam dyeing, sizing, reed threading, weaving, and inspection. The finishing processes are as follows: singeing, desizing, drying, dry setting, pre-stretching, liquid ammonia treatment, wrinkle-free treatment, baking, reed dyeing, stretching, calendering, and pre-shrinking.

2. The yarn-dyed woven fabric incorporating silk-spandex hollow-pack technology according to claim 1, characterized in that, The weft yarn silk dyeing process uses reactive dyes on the silk, and the dyeing process involves dyeing at 60℃ for 40 minutes.

3. The yarn-dyed woven fabric incorporating silk-spandex hollow-pack technology according to claim 1, characterized in that, The empty package uses a WF-10A Weifeng empty package machine with a speed of 350m / min, a pressure of 4.5MPa, a middle roller tension of 3CN, a lower roller tension of 1.6CN, a guide frame tensioner of 8CN, and 4 winding turns.

4. The yarn-dyed woven fabric incorporating silk-spandex hollow-pack technology according to claim 1, characterized in that, The fabric is woven on a rapier loom with a speed of 400 r / min and a weaving efficiency of 70-75%.

5. A yarn-dyed woven fabric incorporating silk-spandex hollow-pack technology according to claim 3, characterized in that, The empty package machine uses a circular Swiss nozzle with a spray diameter of 1.4mm.