Preparation method of naturally curled cashmere fabric

Abstract

The invention provides a preparation method of a naturally curled cashmere fabric, which comprises the following steps: S1, dyeing: taking cashmere as a raw material, dyeing loose wool, dehydrating, and drying the loose wool; s2, spinning: making the dried cashmere into yarns; s3, weaving: warping and drawing in the cashmere yarns, and weaving into cashmere grey cloth; s4, performing low-temperature long-time fulling milling and tentering drying on the cashmere gray fabric; s5, performing primary wet raising of light teasel fruits, wet raising of light steel wires, drying, dry raising of light steel wires, humidification and wet raising of teasel fruits; s6, repeating the step S5 for one time; s7, drying after wet rolling; and S8, carrying out first steam preshrinking, and carrying out second steam preshrinking after decating to obtain the naturally curled cashmere fabric. By means of the weaving weave and the after-finishing process, the natural curled wool surface of the cashmere can be formed on the surface of the fabric instead of artificial hard straightening, fiber damage is reduced, and the natural gloss and hand feeling of the cashmere are naturally exerted.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application relates to the technical field of fabric preparation, in particular to a preparation method of natural curling cashmere fabric. BACKGROUND

[0002] In the preparation of fabric, it is often necessary to make the surface of the fabric dense and straight through raising. The conventional raising process and method is to first raise the pile through steel wire raising, and then raise the pile in one direction through fruit wet raising to make the pile straight. However, the steel wire raising speed is fast and the fiber damage is large. When superfine cashmere is used as raw material, the fiber is easily damaged during raising due to its thin and delicate nature, and the natural curling characteristics of the pile cannot be reflected. SUMMARY

[0003] The present application provides a preparation method of natural curling cashmere fabric to solve the above problems in the prior art.

[0004] The purpose of the present application is achieved by the following technical solutions: The present application provides a preparation method of natural curling cashmere fabric, comprising the following steps: S1, dyeing: taking cashmere as raw material, dyeing and dehydrating the loose wool, and then drying the loose wool; S2, spinning: spinning the dried cashmere into yarn; S3, weaving: warping and threading the cashmere yarn to weave cashmere gray cloth; S4, low-temperature long-time shrinking the cashmere gray cloth, and tentering and drying; S5, once light fruit wet raising, light steel wire wet raising, drying, light steel wire dry raising, humidifying, and fruit wet raising; S6, repeating step S5 once; S7, drying after wet rolling; S8, first steam preshrinking, second steam preshrinking after steaming, and obtaining natural curling cashmere fabric.

[0005] In some embodiments, the temperature for loose dyeing in step S1 is 80-85 ℃, and the temperature for drying the loose wool is 60-65 ℃.

[0006] Preferably, the weaving in step S3 adopts two groups of connecting lines arranged at intervals, and the connecting points of the two groups of connecting lines and the upper and lower two layers are uniformly staggered to form a natural and uniform diamond pattern texture.

[0007] Preferably, the pressure for shrinking in step S4 is 0.6-1.8 Bar, the time length is 180-300 minutes, and the temperature is 35-40 ℃.

[0008] By reducing the pressure, increasing the time length, slowly raising the pile, the bottom pile is fine and thick, and the loss of cashmere fibers is reduced.

[0009] Preferably, the temperature of the drying is independently 120-150 ℃.

[0010] Preferably, the wet raising in step S5 uses pure natural plant stems.

[0011] The pure natural plant stems make the pile surface more compact and softer, and the imitation thorn fruit is usually used in the market.

[0012] Preferably, the time length of the wet rolling in step S7 is 24-30 h.

[0013] In the present application, the wet rolling is brushed straight by the high-speed rotating brush roller, rolled into a roll, and then the rolled shaft is rotated and placed for a certain time to complete the fixing of the pile surface.

[0014] The wet rolling can stabilize the natural curling state of cashmere fibers, shape, and make the cloth surface flat and curl naturally.

[0015] Preferably, between steps S7 and S8, dry brushing, shearing, and ironing are further included.

[0016] The ironing and shearing are usually integrated in the market, it is difficult to shear the pile surface, and the gloss is affected, while in the present application, the shearing and ironing are separated, which is easier to retain the bulkiness and natural curling to retain the natural gloss of cashmere.

[0017] Preferably, the pressure of the first steam pre-shrinking in step S8 is 4-6 Bar. The first steam pre-shrinking can recover the bottom pile property and retain the elasticity.

[0018] Preferably, the temperature of the steaming is 120-150 ℃, and the time is 8-9 minutes. The steaming can fix the natural curling state, increase the gloss, and stabilize the size of the cloth.

[0019] Preferably, the pressure of the second steam pre-shrinking in step S8 is 2-4 Bar.

[0020] The second steam pre-shrinking can make the width of the fabric more regular, the length more stable, make the surface pile fluffy, and finally make the fabric achieve the effect of tight inside and loose outside, good drape, good elasticity, soft and smooth hand feeling, and good gloss.

[0021] The present application also provides a natural curling cashmere fabric prepared by the above preparation method.

[0022] Compared with the prior art, the present application has the following beneficial effects: 1) The weaving process adopts two groups of connecting threads arranged at intervals, the connecting points of the two groups of connecting threads with the upper and lower two layers are uniformly staggered, forming a natural and uniform diamond pattern texture. Using this connecting thread organization, the internal organization of the fabric is tight and elastic, and the pile changes with the bottom diamond three-dimensional changes, visually producing a fish scale-like undulation; 2) By reducing the shrinking board pressure, delaying the milling time, stabilizing the fiber matting in the yarn, increasing the cohesion between the fibers, and making the fabric size stable; 3) The dry finishing stage successively passes through four steps of fruit wet raising, steel wire wet raising, steel wire dry raising and fruit raising. In the early stage of raising, the fiber damage is small when the fruit double tin raises the pile; then the steel wire raising is used to wet raising, which has a strong raising effect but less fiber damage; then the steel wire raising is used to dry raising, which has a strong raising effect and large fiber damage, but since the yarn surface tends to be fluffy after the previous two steps of raising, it is beneficial to reduce the fiber damage in the raising process; finally, the natural fruit is used to comb the surface fibers of the fabric, making the fabric pile direction consistent; 4) In the finishing process, the surface pile of the fabric is more neat through ironing and cutting, and then the fabric is shaped after milling, the fabric tightness is increased, the surface pile is fluffy after steam shrinking under no tension, and finally the fabric achieves the effect of tight inside and loose outside, good drape and good elasticity, soft and smooth hand feeling, good luster. Thus, a special style of internal texture and external wavy light is formed. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0023] Other features, objects and advantages of the present application will become more apparent from the following detailed description of non-limiting embodiments, made with reference to the following drawings: Figure 1 The cashmere fabric prepared by the example of the present application; Figure 2 The cashmere fabric prepared by the comparative example of the present application. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0024] The present application will be described in detail below with reference to specific examples. The following examples will help those skilled in the art to further understand the present application, but do not limit the present application in any form. It should be noted that for those skilled in the art, without departing from the concept of the present application, a number of modifications and improvements can be made. These all belong to the protection scope of the present application.

[0025] EXAMPLE 1. Dyeing: using cashmere as raw material, loose dyeing (dyeing temperature: 85℃ low temperature dyeing); after dehydration, loose wool drying (≤65℃ low temperature loose wool drying); 2. Spinning: The dried cashmere is subjected to carding, combing, spinning and winding in sequence to produce yarn; the yarn count (controlled at 60-80 ends); 3. Weaving: The cashmere yarn is warped and threaded to weave into cloth, and two sets of connecting threads are arranged at intervals, with the connecting points of the two sets of connecting threads evenly staggered on the upper and lower layers to form a natural and uniform diamond pattern texture; Warp and weft density (warp density 80-100 ends / inch, weft density 60-80 ends / inch); Type of loom (e.g. rapier loom or air jet loom); 4. Low-temperature long-time milling: temperature 35°C; time 300 minutes, pressure 1.0 Bar; 5. 130°C tenter stretching and drying; 6. Fruit wet raising: pure natural plant stems are used to make the hair surface more compact and soft; 7. Steel wire wet raising; 8. 120°C drying; 9. Light steel wire dry raising; 10. Humidification; (humidity: 70 - 80%) 11. Fruit wet raising, where each steel wire raising and fruit raising is light raising, without one-time destruction, causing less damage to the fibers and the cloth base, and only a little raising each time; 12. Wet rolling for 24 h; 13. 150°C drying; 14. Dry brushing: dry brushing treatment is performed on the surface of the fabric to remove surface impurities and loose hair; 15. Trimming: trimming equipment is used to trim the pile on the surface of the fabric to make the pile length more uniform; 16. Ironing; 17. Steam pre-shrinking: 125°C, 5 Bar steam pressure, to make the cloth base and pile properties recover to a certain extent, retaining elasticity; 18. Steaming: temperature 150°C, time 8 minutes; 19. Second steam pre-shrinking: 125°C, 3 Bar steam pressure, to obtain a naturally crimped cashmere fabric.

[0026] Among them, the equipment and parameters of the raising process are as follows: I. Light fruit wet raising 1. Machine name: Mario crosta double-tin raising machine (model CHD-90) 2. Light raising force: 30%-50%, ordinary raising force: 50%-70%, indicating the contact area and tightness of the fabric with the prickly fruit. The fibers in the fabric are picked out by the prickly fruit to produce a layer of nap covering the surface, the roller speed is 65 rpm, (ordinary is 85 rpm), the roller speed is 63 rpm, (ordinary is 83 rpm), the cloth speed is 14 m / min.

[0027] II. Light steel wire wet raising 1. Machine name: Lafer double tin liner steel wire raising machine (model GRl228); 2. Light raising force: raising roller 0.2-1.0, ordinary raising force: raising roller 1.0-2.0, the value indicates the speed of the roller, the larger the value, the faster the speed, and the greater the raising force. The forward needle roller speed is 800 rpm, (ordinary is 920 rpm), the reverse needle roller speed is 830 rpm, (ordinary is 940 rpm), and the cloth speed is 12 m / min.

[0028] III. Light steel wire dry raising The same as the steel wire wet raising value. The forward needle roller speed is 800 rpm, (ordinary is 920 rpm), the reverse needle roller speed is 830 rpm, (ordinary is 950 rpm), and the cloth speed is 10 m / min.

[0029] IV. Prickly fruit wet raising According to the first prickly fruit wet raising, the ordinary raising force is 50%-70%. The nap after steel wire raising is combed to have directionality and natural curl. The roller direction is consistent with the fabric running direction, the roller speed is 80 rpm, and the cloth speed is 10 m / min.

[0030] Figure 1 The goat cashmere fabric prepared in this example has the characteristics of natural curling.

[0031] Figure 2 The goat cashmere fabric prepared in this example has the characteristics of natural curling.

[0032] Comparative Example 1 The difference between this comparative example and the example is that only one light prickly fruit wet raising and light steel wire wet raising are performed, and the S3 step is not performed.

[0033] Comparative Example 2 The difference between this comparative example and the example is that the wet curling step is not performed. The fabric without the wet curling step will cause the natural curling nap surface effect to be not fixed.

[0034] Comparative Example 3 The difference between the present comparative example and the examples is that the milling pressure is 2.5 Bar. The insufficient raising of the surface and inner pile of the fabric will increase the difficulty and time of the later raising process.

[0035] In summary, the present application provides a preparation method of natural curling cashmere fabric, comprising the following steps: S1, dyeing: taking cashmere as raw material, dyeing and dehydrating the loose cashmere, and then drying the loose cashmere; S2, spinning: spinning the dried cashmere into yarn; S3, weaving: weaving the cashmere yarn into cashmere grey cloth after beaming and threading; S4, low-temperature long-time milling the cashmere grey cloth, and then tentering and drying; S5, once light steel wire wet raising, drying, light steel wire dry raising, humidifying, and fruit wet raising; S6, repeating step S5 once; S7, drying after wet beating; S8, first steam preshrinking, second steam preshrinking after steaming, and obtaining the natural curling cashmere fabric. Through the weaving organization and the post-finishing process, the surface of the fabric will form a pile of cashmere which is naturally curled, instead of being artificially straightened, thereby reducing the fiber damage and allowing the natural luster and hand feeling of cashmere to be naturally played.

[0036] It should be understood that the present application is not limited to the specific embodiments described above, and various changes or modifications can be made by those skilled in the art within the scope of the claims, which do not affect the essential content of the present application. The embodiments of the present application and the features in the embodiments can be arbitrarily combined with each other without conflict.

Claims

1. A process for the preparation of a natural crimped cashmere fabric, characterized by, The method comprises the following steps: S1, dyeing: taking goat hair as raw material, dyeing and dehydrating loose hair, and then drying the loose hair; S2, spinning: spinning the dried goat hair into yarn; S3, weaving: weaving the goat hair yarn into a goat hair grey cloth after beaming and threading; S4, low-temperature long-time milling of the goat hair grey cloth, and tentering and drying; S5, once light prick fruit wet raising, light steel wire wet raising, drying, light steel wire dry raising, humidifying, and prick fruit wet raising; S6, repeating step S5 once; S7, drying after wet rolling; S8, first steam preshrinking, second steam preshrinking after steaming, and obtaining a naturally crimped cashmere fabric.

2. The production method according to claim 1, characterized by, In step S3, the weaving adopts two groups of connecting lines arranged at intervals, and the connecting points of the two groups of connecting lines and the upper and lower two layers are uniformly staggered to form a natural and uniform diamond pattern texture.

3. The method of claim 1, wherein, In step S4, the milling pressure is 0.6-1.8 Bar, the time length is 180-300 minutes, and the temperature is 35-40 ℃.

4. The method of claim 1, wherein, In step S5, the prick fruit wet raising adopts pure natural plant fruit stems.

5. The preparation method according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step S7, the time length of wet rolling is 24-30 h.

6. The method of claim 1, wherein, Between steps S7 and S8, dry brushing, shearing, and ironing are further included.

7. The preparation method according to claim 1, characterized in that, In step S8, the pressure of the first steam preshrinking is 4-6 Bar, and the temperature is 125-135 ℃.

8. The method of claim 1, wherein, In step S8, the steaming temperature is 120-150 ℃, and the time is 8-9 minutes.

9. The method of claim 1, wherein, In step S8, the pressure of the second steam preshrinking is 2-4 Bar, and the temperature is 125-135 ℃.

10. A naturally crimped cashmere fabric prepared by the preparation method according to any one of claims 1-9.

Images