Compositions comprising ionically crosslinked high molecular weight chitosan

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one cationic polymer; (b) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or salt thereof; and (c) at least one non-polymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values wherein said (a) cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of chitosan having a molecular weight greater than 20,000. The composition according to the present invention can provide keratin fibers such as hair having a good alignment and shape recovery effect, and can comprise at least one environmentally friendly ingredient.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to compositions comprising ionically crosslinked high molecular weight chitosan, and cosmetic methods using such compositions. Background Technology

[0002] The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetics, designed and developed with environmental concerns in mind, is becoming a major target for addressing global challenges.

[0003] Therefore, it is necessary to develop more sustainable compositions, preparation methods, and ingredients to address these environmental issues.

[0004] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, particularly by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good natural index and / or natural sources, and more specifically, plant-based materials, while reducing the use of petrochemical-derived compounds.

[0005] As is known in the art, certain cosmetic compositions and any other compositions use polyionic complexes, which are formed from anionic and cationic polymers.

[0006] For example, WO 2021 / 171909 discloses a composition comprising at least one polyionic composite particle, the polyionic composite particle comprising at least one cationic polymer, at least one anionic polymer and at least one nonpolymeric acid having two or more pKa values. Summary of the Invention

[0007] A composition is needed that provides good alignment and shape restoration for keratin fibers, such as hair, while containing one or more environmentally friendly ingredients. Alignment means that keratin fibers can be easily arranged in a desired linear pattern, such as a straight line. Shape restoration means that keratin fibers can easily return to their original shape.

[0008] Therefore, the first object of the present invention is to provide a composition that can provide good alignment and shape restoration effects for keratin fibers, such as hair.

[0009] Furthermore, a second object of the present invention is to provide a composition that may contain at least one environmentally friendly ingredient.

[0010] The above-mentioned objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for use with keratin fibers such as hair, said composition comprising: (a) at least one cationic polymer; (b) at least one monovalent nonpolymeric acid or a salt thereof; and (c) At least one nonpolymeric acid or its salt having two or more pKa values. in (a) The cationic polymer is selected from chitosan with a molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000.

[0011] The amount of (a) (one or more) cationic polymers in the composition according to the invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0012] (b) The monovalent nonpolymeric acid or its salt may be a monovalent nonpolymeric organic acid or its salt, preferably a monovalent carboxylic acid or its salt, and more preferably lactic acid or its salt.

[0013] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of (b) (one or more) monovalent nonpolymeric acid or its (one or more) salts may be from 0.01% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0014] (c) The nonpolymeric acid or its salt having two or more pKa values ​​may be an organic acid or its salt, preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid or its salt having at least one phosphate group and / or at least two carboxylic acid groups, and more preferably phosphoric acid, pyrophosphate, citric acid, tartaric acid or its salt.

[0015] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of (c) a nonpolymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values ​​can be from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.003% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.005% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises (d) water.

[0017] The amount of water in (d) of the composition according to the invention can be from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 60% to 97% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0018] The composition according to the invention may further comprise (e) at least one oil.

[0019] (e) The oil may be selected from vegetable oils, synthetic ester oils, and mixtures thereof, and is preferably selected from vegetable oils.

[0020] The amount of oil (e) (one or more) in the composition according to the invention may be from 1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 3% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 40% by weight.

[0021] The compositions according to the invention may further comprise (f) at least one fatty acid.

[0022] (f) Fatty acids can be selected from C4-C 26 C6-C is preferred. 24 More preferably C8-C 22 Saturated and unsaturated straight-chain or branched fatty acids.

[0023] (a) Cationic polymers can be hydrophobically modified by (f) fatty acids.

[0024] The amount of (f) (one or more) fatty acids in the composition according to the invention may be from 0.01% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0025] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for use with keratin fibers, such as hair, comprising: Applying the composition according to the invention to keratin fibers, and The composition is dried to form a cosmetic film on keratin fibers. Attached Figure Description

[0026] Figure 1 shows a schematic diagram illustrating the behavior of (a) a cationic polymer dispersed in an aqueous phase (if present) around an aliphatic phase, such as oil droplets, in one embodiment of the invention, and an example of (a) hydrophobication of the cationic polymer.

[0027] Figure 1A A schematic diagram is shown, illustrating the behavior of (a) cationic polymers dispersed in an aqueous phase around an aliphatic phase (if present), such as oil droplets, in the absence of (f) fatty acids in the aliphatic phase.

[0028] Figure 1B A schematic diagram is shown, illustrating the behavior of (a) a cationic polymer dispersed in an aqueous phase around a fatty phase (if present), such as oil droplets, in the case where the fatty phase includes (f) fatty acids.

[0029] Figure 1C A schematic diagram is shown, illustrating an example of (a) the mechanism by which cationic polymers undergo (f) hydrophobication of fatty acids. Detailed Implementation

[0030] After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a composition that can provide keratin fibers, such as hair, with good alignment and shape recovery effects, and that can contain at least one environmentally friendly ingredient.

[0031] Therefore, the composition according to the invention comprises: (a) at least one cationic polymer; (b) at least one monovalent nonpolymeric acid or a salt thereof; and (c) At least one nonpolymeric acid or its salt having two or more pKa values. in (a) The cationic polymer is selected from chitosan with a molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000.

[0032] Keratin fibers treated with the composition according to the invention can be easily arranged in a desired linear pattern, such as a straight line. Furthermore, keratin fibers treated with the composition according to the invention can be easily restored to their original shape. Therefore, the composition according to the invention can provide keratin fibers, such as hair, with good manageability.

[0033] (a) The cationic polymer can be ionically crosslinked by (c) a non-polymeric acid or its salt having two or more pKa values. The crosslinked cationic polymer can provide better bonding and shape memory between keratin fibers, such as hair. Therefore, the crosslinked cationic polymer can provide good alignment and shape recovery for keratin fibers, such as hair. Thus, the present invention can provide, for example, excellent hair styling results.

[0034] Since chitosan can be obtained from natural resources, (a) cationic polymers are environmentally friendly components. Therefore, compositions according to the invention may contain environmentally friendly components.

[0035] Furthermore, components (b) and (c) can be derived from renewable materials, such as plants and / or biodegradable materials. Therefore, the compositions according to the invention can be environmentally friendly.

[0036] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises (d) water.

[0037] The composition according to the invention may contain an aqueous phase, which contains (d) water.

[0038] If the composition according to the invention contains (e) at least one oil, then the composition according to the invention may contain a fatty phase containing (e) the oil. If the composition according to the invention contains (f) at least one fatty acid, then (f) the fatty acid may be present in the fatty phase.

[0039] The fatty phase can be dispersed in the aqueous phase. In this case, the fatty phase is a discontinuous phase, while the aqueous phase is a continuous phase. Therefore, the composition according to the invention can be in O / W (oil-in-water) form.

[0040] (a) The cationic polymer can be hydrophobized by (f) fatty acids. The hydrophobized (a) cationic polymer can exist between the fatty phase and the aqueous phase to stabilize the fatty phase. Therefore, the fatty phase can be stably dispersed in the aqueous phase.

[0041] The compositions according to the invention are stable even when they contain a relatively large amount of (e) oil. Therefore, the compositions according to the invention may contain a relatively large amount of (e) oil.

[0042] The compositions according to the invention are stable over long periods of time. In other words, phase separation of the compositions according to the invention can be prevented over long periods of time.

[0043] Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can be stored for a long period of time.

[0044] The invention will be explained in more detail below.

[0045] [Composition] (Catonic polymer) The composition according to the invention comprises (a) at least one cationic polymer.

[0046] There are no restrictions on the type of cationic polymer (a). Two or more different types of cationic polymers can be used in combination. Therefore, a single type of cationic polymer or a combination of different types of cationic polymers can be used.

[0047] The cationic polymer has a positive charge density. (a) The charge density of the cationic polymer can be from 0.01 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 0.05 to 15 meq / g, and more preferably from 0.1 to 10 meq / g.

[0048] (a) The cationic polymer is selected from chitosan with a molecular weight (Da) greater than 20,000, preferably greater than 30,000, more preferably greater than 50,000, and even more preferably greater than 80,000. In other words, (a) the cationic polymer is a high molecular weight chitosan.

[0049] (a) The molecular weight (Da) of the cationic polymer may be less than 2,000,000, preferably less than 1,000,000, more preferably less than 500,000, and even more preferably less than 300,000.

[0050] Therefore, (a) the molecular weight (Da) of the cationic polymer can be greater than 20,000 and less than 2,000,000, preferably greater than 30,000 and less than 1,000,000, more preferably greater than 50,000 and less than 500,000, and even more preferably greater than 80,000 and less than 300,000.

[0051] Unless otherwise defined in the specification, "molecular weight" refers to weight-average molecular weight. Molecular weight can be measured or determined by gel permeation chromatography, for example, according to ASTM D5296-19.

[0052] Chitosan is very uncommon in nature. It has only been reported in the exoskeletons of certain insects (such as termite queens) and in the cell walls of certain types of fungi, zygomycetes.

[0053] Chitosan can be obtained by deacetylation of chitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units linked together by β-bonds (1,4).

[0054] The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is the sequence of β-D-glucosamine monomers linked by glycosidic bonds (1→4).

[0055] According to the present invention, "chitosan" refers to any copolymer formed from the constituent units N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine, having a degree of acetylation of less than 90%, preferably less than 80%, preferably less than 70%, preferably less than 60%, and preferably less than 50%. Chitosan is composed of glucosamine sugar units (deacetylated units) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units (acetylated units) linked together by β-type bonds (1,4), and is a polymer of the poly(N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly(D-glucosamine) type.

[0056] More preferably, the degree of acetylation of chitosan is less than or equal to 40%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, and more preferably less than or equal to 10%.

[0057] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated units relative to the total number of units, which can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) or by titration with a strong base.

[0058] The chitosan of this invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal source. In particular, it is derived from safe and abundant food or biotechnology fungal sources such as *Agaricus bisporus* (button mushroom). Agaricus bisporus ) or Aspergillus niger ( Aspergillus niger Extracted and purified from ).

[0059] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably derived from the mycelium of ascomycete-type fungi, particularly Aspergillus niger and / or Basidiomycete fungi, especially Lentinula edodes and / or Agaricus bisporus. Preferably, the fungus is Aspergillus niger.

[0060] Chitosan can be derived from genetically modified organisms (GMOs), but non-GMO sources are preferred.

[0061] The chitosan according to the present invention is natural, that is, it is not modified. In particular, it does not contain any chemical modifications.

[0062] One method for preparing chitosan is described in WO03 / 068824.

[0063] Preferably, the chitosan used in this invention is in powder form. It is sold by Kitozyme under the names Kiometine or Kionutrime, such as Kiosmetine-CSH and Kiosmetine P.

[0064] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of (a) (one or more) cationic polymers may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0065] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of (a) (one or more) cationic polymers may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0066] The amount of (a) (one or more) cationic polymers in the composition according to the invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0067] (non-polymeric acids or their salts) The composition according to the invention comprises (b) at least one monovalent nonpolymeric acid or a salt thereof. Two or more monovalent nonpolymeric acids or salts thereof may be used in combination. Therefore, a single type of monovalent nonpolymeric acid or a salt thereof or a combination of different types of monovalent nonpolymeric acids or salts thereof may be used.

[0068] The term "non-polymeric" here means that the acid is not obtained by polymerizing two or more monomers. Therefore, non-polymeric acids do not correspond to acids obtained by polymerizing two or more monomers, such as polyacrylic acid.

[0069] The term "salt" herein means a salt formed by adding one or more suitable bases to a monovalent nonpolymeric acid, which can be obtained from the reaction of a monovalent nonpolymeric acid with one or more bases according to methods known to those skilled in the art. As salts, metal salts, such as salts with alkali metals like Na and K, and salts with alkaline earth metals like Mg and Ca, as well as ammonium salts, may be mentioned.

[0070] Preferably, (b) the molecular weight of the monovalent nonpolymeric acid or its salt is less than 1000, preferably 500 or less, and more preferably 100 or less.

[0071] (b) Monovalent nonpolymeric acids or their salts may be included in the aqueous phase formed by (d) water. (b) Monovalent nonpolymeric acids or their salts may promote the dissolution of (a) cationic polymers in the aqueous phase.

[0072] (b) The monovalent nonpolymeric acid or its salt may be selected from monovalent organic or inorganic acids and their salts, preferably monovalent organic acids and their salts, and more preferably monovalent carboxylic acids and their salts.

[0073] Monovalent nonpolymeric acids have a single acid group, which can be selected from carboxyl, sulfate, sulfonic acid, phosphoric acid, phosphonic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0074] Monovalent nonpolymeric acids can be selected from hydroxy acids, and α-hydroxy acids are preferred. Examples of α-hydroxy acids include lactic acid and glycolic acid.

[0075] The monovalent nonpolymeric acid can be a monovalent nonpolymeric organic acid, preferably a monovalent carboxylic acid, and more preferably lactic acid.

[0076] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of (b) (one or more) monovalent nonpolymeric acid or its (one or more) salts may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0077] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of (b) (one or more) monovalent nonpolymeric acid or its (one or more) salts may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0078] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of (b) (one or more) monovalent nonpolymeric acid or its (one or more) salts may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0079] (Non-polymeric acids with two or more acid dissociation constants) The compositions according to the invention comprise (c) at least one nonpolymeric acid or a salt thereof having two or more pKa values, i.e., at least one nonpolymeric acid or a salt thereof having two or more acid dissociation constants. pKa values ​​(acid dissociation constants) are well known to those skilled in the art and should be determined at a constant temperature (e.g., 25°C).

[0080] (c) A nonpolymeric acid or a salt thereof having two or more pKa values ​​may be contained in an aqueous phase, which includes (d) water. A nonpolymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​may act as a crosslinking agent for (a) cationic polymers.

[0081] The term "non-polymeric" here means that the acid is not obtained by polymerizing two or more monomers. Therefore, this non-polymeric acid does not correspond to an acid obtained by polymerizing two or more monomers (e.g., polyacrylic acid).

[0082] Preferably, (c) the nonpolymeric acid or its salt having two or more pKa values ​​has a molecular weight of 1000 or less, preferably 800 or less, and more preferably 700 or less.

[0083] There are no restrictions on the type of (c) nonpolymeric acid or its salt having two or more pKa values. Two or more different types of (c) nonpolymeric acids or their salts having two or more pKa values ​​can be used in combination. Therefore, a single type of (c) nonpolymeric acid or its salt having two or more pKa values ​​or a combination of different types of (c) nonpolymeric acids or their salts having two or more pKa values ​​can be used.

[0084] The term "salt" herein means a salt formed by adding a suitable base(s) to a nonpolymeric acid having two or more pKa values, which can be obtained by reacting a nonpolymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​with one or more bases according to methods known to those skilled in the art. As salts, references may be made to metal salts, such as salts with alkali metals like Na and K, and salts with alkaline earth metals like Mg and Ca, as well as ammonium salts.

[0085] (c) The non-polymeric acid or its salt having two or more pKa values ​​can be an organic acid, an inorganic acid or its salt, and is preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid, inorganic acid or its salt.

[0086] Non-polymeric acids having two or more pKa values ​​may have at least two monovalent acid groups or at least one polyvalent acid group, which may be selected from carboxyl, sulfate, sulfonic acid, phosphoric acid, phosphonic acid, phenolic hydroxyl, and mixtures thereof.

[0087] Preferably, the nonpolymeric acid having two or more pKa values ​​has at least one phosphate group and / or at least two carboxylic acid groups.

[0088] Non-polymeric acids having two or more pKa values ​​can be non-polymeric polyvalent acids. Non-polymeric polyvalent acids can be selected from dicarboxylic acids, disulfonic acids, phosphoric acid, pyrophosphate, and mixtures thereof.

[0089] (c) Non-polymeric acids or their salts having two or more pKa values ​​may be selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, octanoic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, malic acid, citric acid, aconitic acid, oxaloacetic acid, tartaric acid, and their salts; aspartic acid, glutamic acid, and their salts; terephthalic acid dicamphor sulfonic acid or its salts (Mexoryl SX), Benzophenone-9; phytic acid, and its salts; Red 2 (Amaranth), Red 102 (New Coccine), Yellow 5 (Tartrazine), Yellow 6 (Sunset Yellow FCF), Green 3 (Fast Green FCF), Blue 1 (Brilliant Blue FCF), Blue 2 (Indigo Carmine), Red 201 (Lithol Rubine B), Red 202 (Lithol Rubine BCA), Red 204 (Lake Red CBA), Red 206 (Lithol Red CA), Red 207 (Lithol Red BA), Red 208 (Lithol Red SR), Red 219 (Brilliant Lake Red R), Red 220 (Deep Maroon), Red 227 (Fast Acid Magenta), Yellow 203 (Quinoline Yellow WS), Green 201 (Alizanine Cyanine Green F), Green 204 (Pyranine Conc), Green 205 (LightGreen SF Yellowish), Blue 203 (Patent Blue CA), Blue 205 (Alfazurine FG), Red 401 (Violamine R), Red 405 (Permanent Re F5R), Red 502 (Ponceau 3R), Red 503 (PonceauR), Red 504 (Ponceau SX), Green 401 (Naphtol Green B), Green 402 (Guinea Green B) and Black 401 (Naphtol Blue Black); folic acid, ascorbic acid, isoascorbic acid, and their salts; cystine and its salts; EDTA and its salts; glycyrrhizin and its salts; and mixtures thereof.

[0090] Preferably, (c) the nonpolymeric acid or its salt having two or more pKa values ​​is selected from phosphoric acid, pyrophosphate, phosphonic acid, phytic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, and their salts, and more preferably phosphoric acid, pyrophosphate, phytic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, and their salts.

[0091] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of (c) a nonpolymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values ​​may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.003% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.005% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of (c) a nonpolymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values ​​may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0093] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of (c) a nonpolymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values ​​may be from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.003% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.005% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] (water) Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises (d) water.

[0095] (d) Water can constitute an aqueous phase, which can be, for example, a continuous phase in the composition according to the invention.

[0096] (d) The amount of water may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0097] (d) The amount of water may be 99% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 97% by weight or less, and more preferably 95% by weight or less.

[0098] (d) The amount of water may be from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 60% to 97% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] (Oil) The composition according to the invention may contain (e) at least one oil. If two or more oils are used, they may be the same or different.

[0100] (e) The oil can constitute the fatty phase, which can be, for example, the dispersed phase or the discontinuous phase in the composition according to the invention.

[0101] Here, "oil" refers to a fatty compound or substance that is liquid or pasty (non-solid) at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and room temperature (25°C). Oils commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0102] (e) The oil may be a non-polar oil, such as hydrocarbon oil, silicone oil, etc.; a polar oil, such as vegetable or animal oil and ester or ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0103] (e) Oils may be selected from oils derived from biological resources, such as oils of plant or animal origin; oils derived from non-biological resources, such as synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols derived from chemicals; and mixtures thereof.

[0104] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, almond oil, flaxseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0105] Examples of animal oils include squalene and squalane.

[0106] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and synthetic triglycerides.

[0107] Ester oils are preferably saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched C1-C esters. 26 Aliphatic monocarboxylic acids or polycarboxylic acids with saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched C1-C bonds. 26 A liquid ester of an aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohol, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in the ester is greater than or equal to 10.

[0108] Preferably, for the esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohols and acids from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0109] Among the monoesters of monobasic acids and monohydric alcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dioctyl carbonate, alkyl myristate esters (e.g., isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate), isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isonononanoate, isodecanyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate may be mentioned.

[0110] C4-C can also be used 22 Dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C 22 Esters of alcohols, as well as monocarboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids, or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C4-C...26 Esters of dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0111] Specifically, the following can be mentioned: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; di(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; di(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearate adipate; di(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisoceryl citrate; triisostearate citrate; trilactyl glycerol; trioctyl dodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; and diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0112] As an ester oil, C6-C can be used. 30 And C is preferred 12 -C 22 Glycoesters and diesters of fatty acids. To recap, the term "sugar" refers to an oxygen-containing hydrocarbon-based compound with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and containing at least four carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0113] Suitable examples of sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose, and their derivatives, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, such as methyl glucose.

[0114] The glycol esters of fatty acids may be specifically selected from the previously described sugars and straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C. 30 And C is preferred. 12 -C 22 Esters or mixtures of fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0115] The esters according to this variant can also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0116] These esters can be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, benzyl ester, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenic acid ester, decanoate and arachidonic acid ester, or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, a mixture of oleic palmitate, oleic stearate and palmitic stearate, and pentaerythritol tetraethylhexanoate.

[0117] More specifically, monoesters and diesters are used, particularly sucrose, glucose or methyl glucose monooleate or dioleate, stearate, benzyl ester, oleic palmitate, linoleate, linolenic acid ester and oleic stearate.

[0118] One example that can be mentioned is a product sold by Amerchol under the name Glucate® DO, which is methyl gluconate dioleate.

[0119] Examples of preferred ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyl dodecyl octanoate, isodecanyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate / decanoate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dioctyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecanyl oleate, tri(2-ethylhexanoate)glyceryl ester, pentaerythritol tetra(2-ethylhexanoate)ester, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0120] Examples of artificial triglycerides may be mentioned, such as capryl caprylyl glyceride, triglyceride myristate, triglyceride palmitate, triglyceride trilinolenate, triglyceride trilaurate, triglyceride tridecanoate, triglyceride tricaprylate, triglyceride tri(decanoate / caprylate) and triglyceride tri(decanoate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0121] Hydrocarbon oils can be selected from: -Optional cyclic C6-C, either straight or branched. 16 Lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoalkanes such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and isodecane; and - Straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid alkanes, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecene, and hydrogenated polyisobutylene such as Parleam and squalane.

[0122] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils may include, for example, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isodecane, squalane, mineral oils (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum, naphthalene, etc.; hydrogenated polyisobutylene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.

[0123] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohols refers to alcohols containing a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Therefore, alcohols having four or more, preferably six or more, and more preferably twelve or more carbon atoms are included in the range of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols can be straight-chain or branched.

[0124] Fatty alcohols may have the structure R-OH, wherein R is selected from saturated and unsaturated straight-chain and branched groups, containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from C 12 -C 20 Alkyl and C 12 -C 20 Alkenyl group. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

[0125] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecyl alcohol, hexyldecyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palm oil alcohol, arachidonic alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0126] The preferred fatty alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol.

[0127] Therefore, fatty alcohols can be selected from straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C chains. 30 Alcohols, preferably straight-chain or branched saturated C6-C alcohols. 30 Alcohols, and more preferably straight-chain or branched saturated C4 alcohols. 12 -C 20 alcohol.

[0128] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" here refers to an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. Preferably, saturated fatty alcohols are selected from any straight-chain or branched saturated C6-C... 30 Fatty alcohols. In straight-chain or branched saturated C6-C... 30 In fatty alcohols, saturated C4 chains, whether straight-chain or branched, are preferred. 12 -C 20 Fatty alcohols. More preferably, any straight-chain or branched saturated C2O3 can be used. 16 -C 20 Fatty alcohols. Branched C-chain fatty acids can be used, or even more preferably, instead. 16 -C 20 Fatty alcohols.

[0129] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, betaine alcohol, undecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecyl alcohol, hexyldecyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecyl alcohol, hexyldecyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol) and betaine alcohol can be used as saturated fatty alcohols.

[0130] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the invention is preferably selected from octyldodecyl alcohol, hexyldecyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0131] Preferably, oils derived from biological resources, such as plant or animal oils, are used, with plant oils being more preferred.

[0132] Oils of plant or animal origin may include hydrocarbon oils.

[0133] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils derived from plants include, for example, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons such as dodecane, tetradecane, hexadecane, octadecane, squalane, hemisqualane, etc.

[0134] Preferably, (e) the oil is selected from vegetable oils, synthetic ester oils, and mixtures thereof, and is more preferably selected from vegetable oils.

[0135] If present, (e) oil may be surrounded by a plurality of (a) cationic polymers or a complex of (a) cationic polymers and (c) a nonpolymeric acid or its salt having two or more pKa values, or (e) oil may be present in the cavity of a capsule formed of (a) cationic polymers or the aforementioned complexes. In other words, (e) oil may be covered by (a) cationic polymers or the aforementioned complexes or a capsule formed of (a) cationic polymers, and the aforementioned complexes are included in the (e) oil in the cavity of the capsule.

[0136] The oil (e) surrounded by (a) the cationic polymer or the aforementioned complex, or present in the cavity of a capsule formed from (a) the cationic polymer or the aforementioned complex, cannot directly contact keratin fibers, such as hair. Therefore, even if the oil (e) has a sticky or greasy feel, the composition according to the invention does not provide a sticky or greasy feel.

[0137] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of (e) (one or more) oils may be 1% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more.

[0138] The amount of oil (e) (one or more) in the composition according to the invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0139] The amount of oil (e) (one or more) in the composition according to the invention may be from 1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 3% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 40% by weight.

[0140] (fatty acid) The composition according to the invention may contain (f) at least one fatty acid. If two or more fatty acids are used, they may be the same or different.

[0141] The term "fatty acid" here refers to a carboxylic acid with a long aliphatic carbon chain.

[0142] (f) The fatty acid has at least 4 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms, and more preferably at least 8 carbon atoms. (f) The fatty acid may contain up to 26 carbon atoms, preferably up to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably up to 22 carbon atoms. Preferably, (f) the fatty acid is selected from C4-C. 26 Fatty acids, preferably C6-C 24 Fatty acids, and even more preferably C8-C 22 fatty acid.

[0143] (f) Fatty acids can be selected from saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched fatty acids. Therefore, (f) fatty acids can be selected from C4-C... 26 C6-C is preferred. 24 More preferably C8-C 22 Saturated and unsaturated straight-chain or branched fatty acids.

[0144] As unsaturated straight-chain or branched fatty acids, monounsaturated, straight-chain or branched fatty acids or polyunsaturated, straight-chain or branched fatty acids can be used. The unsaturated portion of an unsaturated straight-chain or branched fatty acid can refer to a carbon-carbon double bond or a carbon-carbon triple bond.

[0145] As saturated fatty acids, examples include caprylic acid (C8), nonanoic acid (C9), and decanoic acid (C9). 10 ), Lauric acid (C 12 ), myristic acid (C 14 ), pentadecanoic acid (C 15 Palmitic acid (C) 16 ), heptadecanoic acid (C 17 ), stearic acid (C 18 ), isostearic acid (C 18 ), nonadecanoic acid (C 19 ), arachidic acid (C 20 ), betaine (C) 22 ) and codonic acid (C 24 ).

[0146] As an unsaturated fatty acid, myristic acid (C12-C4 ... 14 ), palmitoleic acid (C 16 ), oleic acid (C 18 ), linoleic acid (C 18 ), linolenic acid (C 18 ), elaidic acid (C) 18 ), Arachidonic acid (C 20 ), eicosenoic acid (C 20 ), erucic acid (C 22 ) and nervonic acid (C 24 ).

[0147] Preferably, (f) fatty acids are selected from C8-C. 18 Saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched fatty acids, more preferably selected from caprylic acid, capric acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0148] (f) Fatty acids can be in the form of free acids or their salts. Salts of fatty acids may include inorganic salts such as alkali metal salts (sodium, potassium, etc.) and alkaline earth metal salts (magnesium, calcium, etc.); and organic salts such as ammonium salts (quaternary ammonium salts, etc.) and amine salts (triethanolamine salts, triethylamine salts, etc.). A single type of fatty acid salt or a combination of different types of fatty acid salts may be used. Furthermore, a combination of one or more fatty acids in the form of free acids and one or more fatty acids in the form of salts may be used, wherein one or more types of salts may also be used.

[0149] In the composition according to the invention, the amount of (f) (one or more) fatty acids may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be, and even more preferably, that the amount of (f) (one or more) fatty acids in the composition according to the invention is 1% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0150] On the other hand, the amount of fatty acids (f) (one or more) in the composition according to the invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be, and even more preferably, that the amount of fatty acids (f) (one or more) in the composition according to the invention is 4% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0151] Therefore, the amount of (f) (one or more) fatty acids in the composition according to the invention can be from 0.01% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It can be, and even more preferably, the amount of (f) (one or more) fatty acids in the composition according to the invention is from 1% by weight to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0152] (pH) The pH of the composition according to the invention can be from 3 to 9, preferably from 3.3 to 8.5, and more preferably from 3.5 to 8.

[0153] At pH values ​​of 3 to 9, (a) the cationic polymer or a complex of (a) the cationic polymer with (c) a nonpolymeric acid or its salt having two or more pKa values ​​can be very stable. Therefore, the compositions according to the invention can be very stable at pH values ​​of 3 to 9.

[0154] The pH of the compositions according to the invention can be adjusted by adding at least one alkaline reagent and / or at least one acid, instead of (b) a monovalent nonpolymeric acid or a salt thereof, or (c) a nonpolymeric acid or a salt thereof having two or more pKa values. The pH of the compositions according to the invention can also be adjusted by adding at least one buffering reagent.

[0155] (Alkaline reagent) The compositions according to the invention may contain at least one basic reagent. Two or more basic reagents may be used in combination. Therefore, a single type of basic reagent or a combination of different types of basic reagents may be used.

[0156] The alkaline reagent can be an inorganic alkaline reagent. Preferably, the inorganic alkaline reagent is selected from ammonia; alkali metal hydroxides; alkaline earth metal hydroxides; alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates, such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.

[0157] Examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. Examples of alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. Sodium hydroxide is preferred as an inorganic alkaline reagent.

[0158] The basic reagent can be an organic basic reagent. Preferably, the organic basic reagent is selected from monoamines and their derivatives; diamines and their derivatives; polyamines and their derivatives; basic amino acids and their derivatives; oligomers of basic amino acids and their derivatives; polymers of basic amino acids and their derivatives; urea and their derivatives; and guanidine and their derivatives.

[0159] Examples of organic basic reagents include alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, and triethanolamine, as well as isopropanolamine; urea, guanidine, and their derivatives; basic amino acids such as ornithine; and diamines such as those described in the following structures: Wherein R represents an alkylene group, such as propylene, which may optionally be substituted with a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkyl group, and R1, R2, R3 and R4 independently represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group, which may be exemplified by 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives.

[0160] One or more alkaline reagents may be used in a total amount of 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.02% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.03% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, depending on their solubility.

[0161] (acid) The compositions according to the invention may contain at least one acid. Two or more acids may be used in combination. Therefore, a single type of acid or a combination of different types of acids may be used.

[0162] As for acids, any inorganic or organic acid commonly used in cosmetics can be mentioned, with inorganic acids preferred. Monovalent and / or polyvalent acids can be used. Monovalent acids, such as hydrochloric acid (HCl), can be used.

[0163] Depending on their solubility, (one or more) acids may be used in a total amount of 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.02% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.03% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0164] (Optional ingredients) In addition to the foregoing components, the compositions according to the invention may contain optional (one or more) components commonly used in cosmetics, specifically, surfactants / emulsifiers, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners derived from, for example, synthetic polymers other than (a) cationic polymers; volatile or nonvolatile organic solvents; anionic polymers; amphoteric polymers; nonionic polymers, such as β-glucan; silicones and silicone derivatives other than (e) oils; natural extracts derived from animals or plants other than (a) cationic polymers or (e) oils; waxes; etc., to the extent that they do not impair the effects of the invention.

[0165] The compositions according to the invention may contain the above-mentioned optional (one or more) components in amounts from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight.

[0166] In the compositions according to the invention, the amount of one or more surfactants / emulsifiers and / or one or more synthetic thickeners and / or one or more organic solvents may be 1% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or less. Particularly preferred is that the compositions according to the invention do not contain surfactants / emulsifiers or synthetic thickeners or organic solvents.

[0167] [preparation] As explained above, the composition according to the invention can be prepared by mixing the necessary (one or more) ingredients and optional (one or more) ingredients (if desired) as explained above.

[0168] The methods and apparatus for mixing the above-mentioned necessary and optional components are not limited. Any conventional methods and means can be used to mix the above-mentioned necessary and optional components to prepare the composition according to the invention.

[0169] The compositions according to the invention can be prepared simply or easily by mixing using conventional mixing devices such as stirrers and homogenizers. Furthermore, heating may not be necessary. Therefore, the method for preparing the compositions according to the invention can be environmentally friendly.

[0170] [Beauty App] The compositions according to the invention can be intended for use as cosmetic compositions.

[0171] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is intended for application to keratin fibers. Keratin fibers here refer to fibers containing keratin as a major component, and examples include hair. Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is used in a cosmetic method for applying the cosmetic composition to keratin fibers, particularly hair.

[0172] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers, such as hair, and more preferably a hair care cosmetic composition.

[0173] [form] The compositions according to the invention can exist in any form.

[0174] If the composition according to the invention comprises (e) oil, (e) oil can form a fatty phase, (d) water can form an aqueous phase, and the fatty phase can be dispersed in the aqueous phase. Therefore, the aqueous phase can act as the continuous phase, and the fatty phase can act as the dispersed phase. In other words, the composition according to the invention can be in the form of an O / W dispersion, such as an O / W emulsion. If the composition according to the invention is of the O / W type, it can provide a refreshing feel due to the water (d) forming its outer phase.

[0175] [mechanism] Figure 1 shows a schematic diagram illustrating the behavior of (a) a cationic polymer dispersed in an aqueous phase (if present) around an aliphatic phase, such as oil droplets, in one embodiment of the invention, and an example of (a) hydrophobication of the cationic polymer.

[0176] Multiple (a) cationic polymers or complexes of (a) cationic polymers with (c) non-polymeric acids or their salts having two or more pKa values ​​can exist at the interface between the fatty and aqueous phases. Therefore, (a) cationic polymers or the aforementioned complexes can form emulsions without the aid of any conventional surfactants or emulsifiers. Emulsions formed from (a) cationic polymers or the aforementioned complexes can resemble so-called Pickering emulsions.

[0177] Alternatively, multiple (a) cationic polymers or the aforementioned complexes can form a capsule with a cavity. (e) oil can be present in the cavity. In other words, (e) oil can be incorporated into the capsule. The capsule wall can consist of a continuous layer or membrane formed by (a) cationic polymers or the aforementioned complexes. While not wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that (a) cationic polymers or the aforementioned complexes can reorganize at the interface between (e) oil and (d) water to spontaneously form a capsule with a cavity to include (e) oil. For example, a continuous aqueous phase containing (d) water and a dispersed phase containing (e) oil in the capsule can form an O / W emulsion, which can also resemble a so-called Pickering emulsion.

[0178] The aliphatic phase may contain (f) fatty acids (if present). The (f) fatty acids in the aliphatic phase can hydrophobically convert (a) cationic polymers in situ. Figure 1 illustrates the scheme of hydrophobic conversion of (a) cationic polymers via (f) fatty acids.

[0179] Figure 1A A schematic diagram is shown, illustrating the behavior of (a) cationic polymers dispersed in an aqueous phase around an aliphatic phase (if present), such as oil droplets, in the absence of (f) fatty acids in the aliphatic phase.

[0180] exist Figure 1A In this context, (a) the cationic polymer may have insufficient hydrophobicity. Therefore, the affinity between (a) the cationic polymer and the fatty phase including (e) the oil may be limited. Consequently, the emulsification of the fatty phase in the aqueous phase may be less stable.

[0181] On the other hand, Figure 1B A schematic diagram is shown, illustrating the behavior of (a) a cationic polymer dispersed in an aqueous phase around a fatty phase, such as oil droplets, in the case where the fatty phase includes (f) fatty acids.

[0182] exist Figure 1B In the fatty phase, the carboxyl groups in the (f) fatty acids can interact ionicly with the cationic or cationic groups (e.g., ammonium or amino groups) in the (a) cationic polymer, such as... Figure 1C As shown. Therefore, (a) the cationic polymer is ionically hydrophobic and can possess sufficient hydrophobicity. Therefore, the affinity between (a) the cationic polymer and the fatty phase including (e) the oil is enhanced. Therefore, the emulsification of the fatty phase in the aqueous phase is stable.

[0183] [membrane] The compositions according to the present invention can be used to readily prepare membranes.

[0184] Therefore, the present invention can also relate to a method for preparing a film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally with a thickness preferably greater than 0.5 μm, more preferably 1.0 μm or greater, and even more preferably 1.5 μm or greater, comprising: Applying the composition according to the invention to keratin fibers, such as hair; and The composition is dried.

[0185] There is no upper limit to the thickness of the membrane according to the invention. Therefore, for example, the thickness of the membrane according to the invention can be 1 mm or less, preferably 500 μm or less, more preferably 300 μm or less, and even more preferably 100 μm or less.

[0186] Since the method for preparing the film according to the invention includes the steps of applying the composition according to the invention onto keratin fibers (e.g., hair) and drying the composition, the method according to the invention does not require any spin coating or spraying, and therefore can easily prepare even relatively thick films. Thus, the method for preparing the film according to the invention can produce relatively thick films without any special equipment, such as spin coaters and spray coaters.

[0187] Even though the film according to the invention is relatively thick, it is still thin and can be transparent, and therefore may not be easily perceived. Therefore, the film according to the invention is preferably used as a cosmetic film.

[0188] This invention may also relate to: (1) A membrane, preferably a cosmetic membrane, optionally having a thickness preferably greater than 0.5 μm, more preferably 1.0 μm or greater, and even more preferably 1.5 μm or greater, prepared by a method comprising: Applying the composition according to the invention to keratin fibers, such as hair; and Dry the composition, as well as (2) A film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally having a thickness preferably greater than 0.5 μm, more preferably 1.0 μm or greater, and even more preferably 1.5 μm or greater, comprising: (a) At least one cationic polymer selected from chitosan with a molecular weight greater than 20,000; (b) at least one monovalent nonpolymeric acid or a salt thereof; and (c) At least one nonpolymeric acid or its salt having two or more pKa values.

[0189] The membrane may also include (e) at least one oil and / or (f) at least one fatty acid.

[0190] The above explanations regarding (a) cationic polymers, (b) monovalent nonpolymeric acids or their salts, and (c) nonpolymeric acids or their salts having two or more pKa values, as well as optional components such as (e) oils and (f) fatty acids, can be applied to those of the membranes (1) and (2) described above.

[0191] Preferably, the membrane according to the invention is hydrophobic.

[0192] The term "hydrophobic" in this specification means that the solubility of the membrane in water (preferably 1 liter in volume) at 20 to 40°C, more preferably 25 to 40°C, and even more preferably 30 to 40°C, is less than 10% by weight, more preferably less than 5% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the membrane. Most preferably, the membrane is insoluble in water.

[0193] If the membrane according to the invention is hydrophobic, it can also be water-resistant, and therefore, it can remain on the keratin fibers, such as hair, even if the surface of the keratin fibers is wet due to, for example, sweat and rain. Therefore, when the membrane according to the invention provides any cosmetic effect, the cosmetic effect can last for a longer period of time.

[0194] The membrane according to the invention may comprise at least one biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymer layer. Two or more biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymers may be used in combination. Therefore, a single type of biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymer or a combination of different types of biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymers may be used.

[0195] The term "biocompatible" polymer in this specification means that the polymer does not have excessive interaction with cells in a living organism, including the skin, and that the polymer is not recognized as a foreign body by the living organism.

[0196] The term "biodegradable" polymer in this specification refers to a polymer that degrades or breaks down in a living organism due to, for example, the metabolism of the living organism itself or the metabolism of microorganisms that may be present in the living organism. Furthermore, biodegradable polymers can be degraded by hydrolysis.

[0197] If the membrane according to the invention comprises a biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymer, for example, it may be less irritating to the scalp or non-irritating and / or may not pollute the environment.

[0198] In fact, the membrane according to the invention may include (a) at least one cationic polymer selected from chitosan, wherein the chitosan is a biodegradable polymer.

[0199] The membrane according to the invention can be used for cosmetic treatments of keratin fibers, such as hair.

[0200] [Beauty methods and uses] This invention also relates to: A cosmetic method for use on keratin fibers, such as hair, comprising: applying a composition according to the invention to the keratin fibers; and drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratin fibers; or The composition according to the invention is used for preparing cosmetic films on keratin fibers, such as hair.

[0201] The cosmetic methods referred to here are non-therapeutic cosmetic methods used to care for and / or coat the surface of keratin fibers, such as hair.

[0202] As explained above, the membrane of the present invention can provide keratin fibers, such as hair, with good alignment and good shape recovery.

[0203] In addition, the aforementioned cosmetic film can immediately protect keratin fibers, such as hair, by coating the surface of keratin fibers and acting as a barrier to shield them from environmental stresses (such as pollutants, impurities, etc.).

[0204] The cosmetic effects can be adjusted or controlled by changing the chemical composition, thickness, and / or surface roughness of the cosmetic film.

[0205] If the cosmetic film includes at least one other cosmetic active ingredient besides (e) oil, the cosmetic film can have the cosmetic effects provided by the other (one or more) cosmetic active ingredients. For example, if the cosmetic film includes at least one cosmetic active ingredient such as a deodorant, the cosmetic film can control the odor on keratin fibers such as hair.

[0206] The present invention may also relate to (a) the use of at least one cationic polymer selected from chitosan with a molecular weight greater than 20,000 in a composition for treating keratin fibers, such as hair, said composition comprising: (b) at least one monovalent nonpolymeric acid or a salt thereof; and (c) At least one nonpolymeric acid or its salt having two or more pKa values. To improve the alignment and shape recovery of keratin fibers.

[0207] The above composition may also contain (e) at least one oil and / or (f) at least one fatty acid.

[0208] The above explanations regarding (a) cationic polymers, (b) monovalent nonpolymeric acids or their salts, and (c) nonpolymeric acids or their salts having two or more pKa values, as well as optional components such as (d) water, (e) oil, and (f) fatty acids, can be applied to those used in the above-described applications. Example

[0209] The invention will be described in more detail through examples. However, they should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention.

[0210] Examples 1-31 and Comparative Examples 1-10 [preparation] Each composition according to Examples 1-31 and Comparative Examples 1-10 was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Tables 1-8. The numerical values ​​for the amounts of the ingredients in Tables 1-8 are all based on "weight %" as raw materials.

[0211] The preparation details are as follows.

[0212] First, chitosan is added to water. Next, lactic acid is added to dissolve the chitosan (considering that for Comparative Examples 6-10, since the low molecular weight chitosan used therein is water-soluble without the aid of lactic acid, lactic acid was not used). Then, a cross-linking agent (phosphoric acid, pyrophosphate, citric acid, or tartaric acid) is slowly added. Then, fatty acids (oleic acid, isostearic acid, linoleic acid, or erucic acid) are added together with the oil (corn oil) to emulsify and mix at room temperature. Table 2 Crosslinking agent: pyrophosphate Fatty acid: Oleic acid.

[0214] Table 3 Crosslinking agent: citric acid Fatty acid: Oleic acid.

[0215] Table 4 Crosslinking agent: tartaric acid Fatty acid: Oleic acid.

[0216] Table 5 Crosslinking agent: phosphoric acid Fatty acid: Isostearic acid.

[0217] Table 6 Crosslinking agent: phosphoric acid Fatty acid: Linoleic acid.

[0218] Table 7 Crosslinking agent: phosphoric acid Fatty acid: Erucic acid.

[0219] Table 8 Crosslinking agent: phosphoric acid Fatty acid: Oleic acid.

[0220] [Evaluate] (Hair arrangement) 0.15 g of each composition according to Examples 1-31 and Comparative Examples 1-10 was applied to 2.7 g of hair and dried with a hair dryer. The hair arrangement of the dried hair was visually observed and evaluated according to the following criteria. Excellent: Much better than the control. Good: Better than the control Difference: Same as control The results are shown in Table 9-14 below.

[0221] (Shape Restoration) 0.15 g of each composition according to Examples 1-31 and Comparative Examples 1-10 was applied to 2.7 g of hair and dried with a hair dryer. The dried hair was spread out by combing and shape restoration, i.e., the degree to which the hair was aligned back by hand contact was visually observed and evaluated according to the following criteria. Excellent: Much better than the control. Good: Better than the control Difference: Same as control The results are shown in Table 9-14 below.

[0222] Table 11 Example 20 Example 21 Example 22 Example 23 Comparative Example 3 Hair arrangement good good good good Comparison Shape restoration good good good good Comparison High molecular weight chitosan: 2% by weight Fatty acid: Isostearic acid.

[0223] Table 12 High molecular weight chitosan: 2% by weight Fatty acid: Linoleic acid.

[0224] Table 13 High molecular weight chitosan: 2% by weight Fatty acid: Erucic acid.

[0225] Table 14 High molecular weight chitosan: 2% by weight Low molecular weight chitosan: 2% by weight Fatty acid: Oleic acid.

[0226] (summary) According to Tables 9 and 10, it can be seen that the compositions according to the invention, which include various crosslinking agents, show good or very good effects on hair alignment and shape restoration compared to compositions that do not contain crosslinking agents.

[0227] According to Tables 11-13, it can be seen that the compositions containing various fatty acids according to the present invention show good effects on hair alignment and shape restoration compared with compositions that do not contain crosslinking agents.

[0228] Table 14 shows that, compared to compositions without a crosslinking agent, the use of low molecular weight chitosan (molecular weight less than 5,000) results in poorer effects regarding hair alignment and shape restoration. Conversely, the use of high molecular weight chitosan (molecular weight greater than 20,000) results in very good effects regarding hair alignment and shape restoration, compared to compositions using low molecular weight chitosan (molecular weight less than 5,000).

[0229] Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention contain one or more environmentally friendly ingredients.

Claims

1. A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for use on keratin fibers such as hair, comprising: (a) at least one cationic polymer; (b) at least one monovalent nonpolymeric acid or a salt thereof; and (c) At least one nonpolymeric acid or its salt having two or more pKa values. in (a) The cationic polymer is selected from chitosan with a molecular weight greater than 20,000.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of (a) one or more cationic polymers in the composition is from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the monovalent nonpolymeric acid or its salt is a monovalent nonpolymeric organic acid or its salt, preferably a monovalent carboxylic acid or its salt, and more preferably lactic acid or its salt.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the amount of one or more monovalent nonpolymeric acids or one or more salts thereof in the composition is from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the nonpolymeric acid or its salt having two or more pKa values ​​is an organic acid or its salt, preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid or its salt having at least one phosphate group and / or at least two carboxylic acid groups, and more preferably phosphoric acid, pyrophosphate, citric acid, tartaric acid or its salt.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the amount of (c) having two or more pKa values ​​of one or more nonpolymeric acids or one or more salts thereof is 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.003% to 5% by weight, and more preferably 0.005% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition further comprises (d) water, preferably in an amount of 50% to 99% by weight, more preferably 60% to 97% by weight, and even more preferably 70% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition further comprises (e) at least one oil.

9. The composition according to claim 8, wherein the oil (e) is selected from vegetable oils, synthetic ester oils, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from vegetable oils.

10. The composition according to claim 8 or 9, wherein the amount of one or more oils (e) in the composition is from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 3% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 8 to 10, wherein the composition further comprises (f) at least one fatty acid.

12. The composition according to claim 11, wherein the (f) fatty acid is selected from C4-C6. 26 C6-C is preferred. 24 More preferably C8-C 22 Saturated and unsaturated straight-chain or branched fatty acids.

13. The composition according to claim 11 or 12, wherein the (a) cationic polymer is hydrophobically converted by the (f) fatty acid.

14. The composition according to any one of claims 11 to 13, wherein the amount of one or more fatty acids (f) in the composition is from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Cosmetic methods for use with keratin fibers, such as hair, including: Apply the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 to keratin fibers; as well as The composition is dried to form a cosmetic film on keratin fibers.

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