Whitening composition suitable for oriental skin and application thereof

Abstract

The invention discloses a whitening composition suitable for oriental skin and application of the whitening composition. The whitening composition is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by weight: 20 to 40 parts of saussurea involucrata extract, 20 to 40 parts of acetyl octapeptide-320 and 2 to 20 parts of PPG-24-glyceryl polyether-24. Through the synergistic effect of the saussurea involucrata extract, acetyl octapeptide-3 and PPG-24-glyceryl polyether-24, whitening and spot fading are achieved, the skin transparency and compactness are improved, and the oriental skin is endowed with good complexion.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention belongs to the field of cosmetic technology, and in particular relates to a whitening composition suitable for Asian skin and its application. Background Technology

[0002] In the skin whitening market, key ingredients include arbutin, kojic acid, vitamin C, niacinamide, and fruit acids. These ingredients aim to reduce melanin and whiten skin. Arbutin gently releases hydroquinone, making it less irritating and suitable for sensitive skin. However, its large molecular weight (272 Da) necessitates the use of penetration enhancers; otherwise, it's difficult to penetrate the skin. Additionally, some products require light protection to prevent decomposition into hydroquinone, which can cause staining. Kojic acid has poor stability and may cause skin irritation, redness, and peeling in low-pH formulations. Vitamin C has extremely poor stability; it oxidizes rapidly and turns yellow under light (pH>6) and requires light protection and low-temperature storage. It is also highly irritating at low pH (<3.5), potentially causing erythema and peeling. Sensitive skin types should start with low concentrations to build tolerance. Niacinamide may cause intolerance, such as redness and itching (due to the presence of free niacin in the product). Fruit acids are highly irritating, and high concentrations (>10%) or frequent use (>3 times a week) may damage the skin barrier, causing burning and peeling, making them unsuitable for sensitive skin.

[0003] Skin color primarily depends on the amount and distribution of melanin. The core mechanism of skin whitening lies in inhibiting melanin formation and accelerating its decomposition. Current research indicates that melanin formation is mainly related to tyrosinase, dopachrome tautomerase, peroxidase, and DI-IICC oxidase. Melanin is produced through the individual or synergistic action of these enzymes, with tyrosinase playing a particularly crucial role.

[0004] Skin whitening methods that inhibit tyrosinase (TYR) currently rely on the development of diversified inhibitors, including traditional synthetic agents (such as hydroquinone), natural derivatives (such as arbutin), plant extracts (such as kojic acid), and novel synthetic compounds (such as phenylethyl resorcinol). These are often combined with technologies such as nanocarriers and traditional Chinese medicine formulas to improve transdermal penetration and synergistic effects. However, this method has significant safety drawbacks: hydroquinone may induce exogenous okra (incidence rate 5%-10%), natural ingredients such as kojic acid can easily cause contact dermatitis (incidence rate 5%-10%), and illicit products still pose a risk of heavy metal residues.

[0005] East Asian skin differs significantly from Western skin, and these differences are essentially the result of gene expression regulation adapting to the environment. The core mechanisms lie in key gene variations in the melanin metabolism pathway and the pressure of natural selection. Therefore, developing a highly effective yet gentle product suitable for the skin characteristics of East Asian populations is of great significance.

[0006] Chinese patent document CN110859791A discloses a skin-whitening composition and its application, as well as a skin-whitening facial mask. The composition includes snow lotus extract, edelweiss extract, reed extract, licorice root extract, angelica root extract, salvia root extract, cornus fruit extract, wolfberry root extract, peach resin extract, astragalus root extract, saposhnikovia root extract, calendula flower extract, albizia flower extract, and gastrodia root extract. This composition can effectively inhibit tyrosinase activity, thereby improving skin tone. It can also regulate skin microcirculation, improve blood flow, and enhance skin complexion, ultimately achieving a rosy and fair complexion. However, there is still a need to further optimize the content of each component to achieve a more significant whitening effect and fewer side effects.

[0007] Chinese patent document CN118059010A discloses a composition containing snow lotus extract and its preparation method. The composition includes snow lotus extract, Sichuan chinaberry bark extract, and wild tea extract. When used in combination, the various plant extracts in this composition exhibit significant melanin synthesis inhibition capabilities, while also demonstrating excellent whitening and spot-fading effects. However, there is still a need to further optimize the ratio of different plant extracts to improve the whitening, spot-fading, and antioxidant effects. Summary of the Invention

[0008] To overcome the problems in the prior art, the present invention provides a whitening composition suitable for Asian skin and its application, using snow lotus extract and acetyl octapeptide-3 as the core whitening substances, supplemented by PPG-24-glyceryl polyether-24 to further promote the whitening effect. The three work synergistically to achieve whitening and spot fading, and improve the skin's radiance and firmness.

[0009] To solve the above-mentioned technical problems, the technical solution proposed by this invention is as follows: This invention provides a whitening composition suitable for Asian skin, consisting of the following raw materials in parts by weight: 20-40 parts of snow lotus extract, 20-40 parts of acetyl octapeptide-3, and 2-20 parts of PPG-24-glycerol polyether-24.

[0010] As an optional embodiment, in the composition provided by the present invention, there are 30 parts of snow lotus extract, 30 parts of acetyl octapeptide-3, and 10 parts of PPG-24-glycerol polyether-24.

[0011] As an optional embodiment, in the composition provided by the present invention, there are 20 parts of snow lotus extract, 20 parts of acetyl octapeptide-3, and 10 parts of PPG-24-glycerol polyether-24.

[0012] As an optional embodiment, in the composition provided by the present invention, in the whitening cosmetic, the amount of snow lotus extract added is 0.15-0.9 parts; the amount of acetyl octapeptide-3 added is 0.15-0.9 parts; and the amount of PPG-24-glycerol polyether-24 added is 0.04-0.4 parts.

[0013] As an optional implementation, in the composition provided by the present invention, the snow lotus extract is selected from one or more of snow lotus extract, Tian Shan snow lotus cell culture and snow lotus culture.

[0014] Based on the same technical concept, the present invention also provides the application of the above-mentioned whitening composition suitable for Asian skin in cosmetics to promote whitening effects.

[0015] As an optional implementation, in the applications provided by this invention, the applications include any one or more of the following: (1) Scavenging DPPH free radicals.

[0016] (2) Inhibit the activity of tyrosinase.

[0017] (3) Reduces melanin production.

[0018] (4) Reduce the expression of TYR, TRP2 and MART-1 genes.

[0019] Working principle of the invention: In the skin whitening pathway, TRP2 (Tyrosinase-Related Protein 2) is a core target regulating melanin type and synthesis efficiency. Encoded by the DCT gene, TRP2 is a copper-containing oxidoreductase that, along with tyrosinase (TYR) and TYRP1, constitutes the melanin synthase family. Its core function is to catalyze the isomerization of dopachrome to 5,6-dihydroxyindolecarboxylic acid (DHICA), a crucial step in the synthesis of eumelanin (dark brown pigment). TRP2, as a skin whitening target, has a specific pathway for inhibiting eumelanin synthesis. Traditional skin whitening ingredients (such as hydroquinone) broadly block melanin synthesis by inhibiting TYR, easily affecting pheomelanin (red-yellow pigment) and causing side effects. In contrast, TRP2 inhibitors selectively reduce eumelanin production, having less impact on pheomelanin, making them more suitable for the skin whitening needs of Asian populations (with a high proportion of eumelanin and darker skin tones).

[0020] TRP2 expression is regulated by microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), which activates transcription by binding to the E-box element of the DCT gene promoter. Signals such as ultraviolet radiation and α-MSH can enhance MITF activity through the cAMP-PKA pathway, indirectly upregulating TRP2 expression. In addition, inflammation and oxidative stress can also activate TRP2 expression; for example, inflammatory factors such as IL-6 and TNF-α can activate TRP2 expression through the JAK-STAT pathway, promoting eumelanin synthesis, which is a key mechanism of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). TRP2 activity is affected by intracellular ROS levels; antioxidants such as vitamin C and glycyrrhizin can indirectly inhibit the oxidase activity of TRP2 by reducing ROS.

[0021] TRP2, by targeting and regulating the eumelanin synthesis pathway, has become a specific target for skin whitening in Asian populations. Its mechanism of action lies in selectively reducing eumelanin production while preserving the skin's photoprotective function, making it more suitable for different ethnic groups compared to traditional targets.

[0022] Traditional Chinese medicine believes that "complexion" is an external manifestation of the functional activities of the internal organs' qi and blood, especially closely related to the functions of the heart in governing blood vessels, the lungs in governing qi, the spleen in governing transportation and transformation of blood, and the liver in storing blood. A rosy and lustrous complexion is generally considered a sign of "abundant qi and blood, and smooth circulation"; while a pale, sallow, dull, or cyanotic complexion often indicates insufficient qi and blood, poor circulation, or stagnation. AT1R mainly affects "complexion" indirectly by influencing the state of the circulatory system.

[0023] AT1R is an important target for regulating intercellular communication in the RAS system. Angiotensin II (Ang II) binds to AT1R, controlling the contraction and relaxation of the circulatory system, mediating inflammatory responses, and leading to vascular microcirculatory disorders, pigmentation, and skin aging.

[0024] Snow lotus (primarily referring to Saussurea involucrata from the Tian Shan Mountains) is a rare medicinal plant that grows in high-altitude, cold regions. Traditional Chinese medicine believes it has the effects of warming the kidneys and invigorating yang, dispelling cold and dampness, and promoting blood circulation. Modern research has found that its extracts (containing active ingredients such as flavonoids, phenylpropanoids, polysaccharides, and volatile oils) show significant potential in the field of skincare, especially in whitening.

[0025] Snow lotus contains a variety of active substances such as flavonoids, polysaccharides, phenylpropanoids, sesquiterpene lactones and their glycosides. Among them, flavonoids and polysaccharides are the main active ingredients that make snow lotus exert its whitening effect. Its core whitening mechanism includes: (1) Strong inhibition of tyrosinase activity: directly blocking the first step of tyrosinase catalyzing melanin production (tyrosine → dopaquinone), reducing melanin synthesis from the source; it can inhibit the expression of MITF and its related regulatory genes (TYR, TYPR1 and TYPR2), thereby achieving the whitening effect; (2) Scavenging free radicals and antioxidation: neutralizing ultraviolet-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS), reducing the stimulation of melanocytes by oxidative stress. At the same time, it protects the skin cell membrane and DNA, preventing dullness and pigmentation caused by oxidative damage; (3) Inhibiting the release of inflammatory factors: downregulating pro-inflammatory factors (such as TNF-α, IL-6), reducing skin inflammation caused by ultraviolet rays or stimulation. Blocking inflammatory signaling pathways (such as NF-κB) to avoid post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH); (4) Blocking melanin transport: Some studies suggest that snow lotus extract may interfere with the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes, reducing epidermal pigment deposition.

[0026] Acetyl octapeptide-3 is an active peptide that can improve sub-optimal skin health, enhance skin radiance, reduce roughness, decrease the area of ​​pigmentation and redness, reduce crow's feet, nasolabial folds, and fine lines under the eyes, and improve skin elasticity and firmness. Acetyl octapeptide-3 can bind to AT1R, exhibiting a higher affinity than its natural ligand AngII, thereby inhibiting RAS, promoting smooth metabolic circulation, reducing pigmentation, lowering inflammation, and promoting collagen production for plump, radiant skin and a healthy complexion.

[0027] Acetyl octapeptide-3 acts on the TRP2 target through two pathways: Pathway 1: Upon binding to the AT1 receptor, AngII activates its Gq / 11 protein signaling pathway, leading to the production of inositol triphosphate (IP3) and diacylglycerol (DAG). IP3 triggers the release of intrasarcoma calcium ions, resulting in vascular smooth muscle contraction. DAG activates protein kinase C (PKC), which in turn activates MAPK. MAPK regulates TRP2 transcription through MITF.

[0028] Pathway 2: Ang II is the main effector molecule of the RAAS system. It can activate reduced coenzyme II (NADPH) oxidase 4 (NOX4) through the angiotensin II type 1 receptor (AT1R), which leads to an increase in reactive oxygen species (ROS). ROS can oxidize the active sites of MAPK phosphatases (such as MKP / DUSP) and inhibit their dephosphorylation of MAPK (such as ERK, JNK, p38), resulting in the continuous activation of MAPK. MAPK regulates the transcription of TRP2 through MITF.

[0029] The combination of snow lotus extract and acetyl octapeptide-3 synergistically enhances the TRP2 gene, which is unique to Asian skin, making it a whitening composition suitable for Asian skin.

[0030] PPG-24-glyceryl polyether-24 (INCI) maintains the normal hydration of the stratum corneum by moisturizing, promoting normal metabolism of keratinocytes (reducing abnormal accumulation), making the stratum corneum thinner and more transparent, and reflecting light more evenly, thus making the skin tone appear brighter and more translucent. In addition, PPG-24-glyceryl polyether-24 can enhance the stratum corneum barrier function through moisturizing, reducing barrier damage and inflammatory responses, indirectly reducing the risk of inflammation-related pigmentation, helping to maintain an even skin tone, and indirectly enhancing the transdermal absorption efficiency of other whitening ingredients in the formula, thereby contributing to a better overall whitening effect.

[0031] Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows: (1) This invention utilizes the synergistic effect of snow lotus extract, acetyl octapeptide-3 and PPG-24-glycerol polyether-24 to precisely target pigmentation and microcirculation disorders mediated by the TRP2 gene and AT1R of the RAS system, which are different genes in Eastern skin: snow lotus extract can inhibit the expression of MITF and the pigment-related genes it regulates; acetyl octapeptide-3 can inhibit TRP2 transcription through a specific pathway and improve vascular microcirculation and reduce inflammation; PPG-24-glycerol polyether-24 can enhance skin hydration and assist in improving the absorption of whitening ingredients. The three work together to target TRP2, which is different in Eastern skin, thereby achieving whitening and spot removal, improving skin radiance and firmness, and giving Eastern skin a good complexion.

[0032] (2) The whitening composition of the present invention has a significant effect on improving skin whiteness, brightness and luster after 28 days of use. The whitening composition has good safety and does not produce serious adverse reactions on the skin. Attached Figure Description

[0033] To more clearly illustrate the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention or the prior art, the drawings used in the description of the embodiments or the prior art will be briefly introduced below. Obviously, the drawings described below are some embodiments of the present invention. For those skilled in the art, other drawings can be obtained based on these drawings without creative effort.

[0034] Figure 1 The results show the expression of TYR, TRP2, and MART-1 genes after ultraviolet radiation. Detailed Implementation

[0035] To facilitate understanding of the present invention, the present invention will be described more fully and in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings and preferred embodiments, but the scope of protection of the present invention is not limited to the following specific embodiments.

[0036] Unless otherwise defined, all technical terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art. The technical terms used herein are for the purpose of describing particular embodiments only and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention.

[0037] Unless otherwise specified, all raw materials, reagents, instruments and equipment used in this invention can be purchased from the market or prepared by existing methods.

[0038] Raw material sources: Snow lotus extract, including snow lotus flower extract, is sourced from Hunan Shuiyang Biotechnology Co., Ltd. Acetyl octapeptide-3 is commercially available. PPG-24-glycerol polyether-24 is sourced from Nikko Co., Ltd.

[0039] Example 1 A whitening composition suitable for Asian skin is prepared by uniformly mixing the raw materials. The composition and weight parts of the raw materials in the examples and comparative examples are shown in Table 1 below.

[0040] Table 1: Raw material composition and parts by weight of the examples and comparative examples

[0041] The whitening compositions prepared in the examples and comparative examples were subjected to performance testing. (a) Security Testing Using the 2022 Cosmetic Safety Technical Specifications as a reference standard, the whitening compositions of Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-6 were evaluated for cosmetic irritation. The test method was a skin patch test, and 30 people aged 16-65 years were randomly distributed to participate in the test.

[0042] Test method: Place the test substance into a patch applicator at a dosage of 0.020~0.025g. Cover the patch applicator containing the test substance onto the back or flexor side of the forearm of the subject with non-irritating adhesive tape. Gently press with the palm of your hand to ensure even adhesion to the skin surface. Leave on for 24 hours. Remove the patch applicator and observe the skin reaction 30 minutes after the pressure mark disappears. If the result is negative, observe again at 24 hours and 48 hours after the patch test.

[0043] Evaluation criteria: Grade 0: Negative reaction; Grade 1: Suspicious reaction, only slight erythema; Grade 2: Weak positive reaction, erythema, infiltration, edema, and possible papules; Grade 3: Strong positive reaction, erythema, infiltration, edema, and possible papules, reaction may extend beyond the test area; Grade 4: Very strong positive reaction, obvious erythema, severe infiltration, edema, confluent herpes, reaction extends beyond the test area.

[0044] Test results: All subjects had negative skin reactions.

[0045] The above test results show that the whitening composition provided by the present invention is gentle and non-irritating to the skin and is safe to use.

[0046] (II) Determination of DPPH free radical scavenging capacity Prepare DPPH solution: Dissolve 0.002 g DPPH in 50 mL ethanol and store in the dark (prepare fresh before use); add 100 μL of DPPH ethanol solution and 100 μL of 10 mg / L test solutions from Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-6 to a 96-well plate, shake for 30 s, incubate at room temperature in the dark for 30 minutes, and measure the absorbance at 517 nm. Each measurement requires three groups: sample, blank, and control, with three replicates per group, as detailed below: Sample (sample set): 100 μL sample solution + 100 μL DPPH alcohol solution (3 replicates per sample).

[0047] Blank group: 100 μL sample solution + 100 μL anhydrous ethanol (3 replicates per sample).

[0048] Control group: 100uL DPPH alcohol solution + 100uL deionized water.

[0049] The scavenging rate of DPPH free radicals was calculated using the following formula, and the test results are shown in Table 2 below.

[0050] Clearance rate = (1 - (Asample - Ablank) / Acontrol) * 100%.

[0051] Table 2: DPPH free radical scavenging rate

[0052] Comparing the results of Examples 1-3 with those of Comparative Examples 1-6, it can be seen that using the specific combination and specific ratio of snow lotus extract, acetyl octapeptide-3, and PPG-24-glycerol polyether-24 of the present invention can significantly improve the DPPH free radical scavenging rate of the whitening composition.

[0053] (III) Tyrosinase activity inhibition test The tyrosinase inhibition ability of Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-6 was verified using tyrosinase inhibition experiments.

[0054] Preparation of PBS buffer solution (pH=7.4): 8g sodium chloride, 0.2g potassium chloride, 0.2g potassium dihydrogen phosphate, and 2.56g disodium hydrogen phosphate dodecahydrate, diluted to 1000ml with distilled water. Adjust the pH to 7.4 using hydrochloric acid or sodium hydroxide.

[0055] Preparation of L-tyrosine solution: Weigh 25.6 g of L-tyrosine and dilute to 50 mL in a volumetric flask with PBS buffer to obtain the L-tyrosine solution.

[0056] Preparation of tyrosinase solution: Weigh 0.3502 g of tyrosinase and dilute to a 10 mL volumetric flask with PBS buffer to obtain the tyrosinase solution. (Operate and store in an ice-water bath.) Assay for tyrosinase activity: Using a pipette, accurately pipette solutions from Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-6 according to the dosages in Table 1. Incubate at 37°C for 10 min in a water bath, then add 0.40 mL of tyrosinase solution to each solution. Mix well and incubate at 37°C for 10 min. Quickly transfer the solution to a cuvette and measure the absorbance (A) at 305 nm. Calculate the inhibition rate against tyrosinase. The composition of the reaction solution is shown in Table 3 below.

[0057] Table 3: Composition of the reaction solution (unit: ml)

[0058] Wherein: a: test solution with neither substrate nor active ingredient; b: test solution with substrate but no active ingredient; c: test solution with no substrate but active ingredient; d: test solution with both substrate and active ingredient.

[0059] The inhibition rate of the active ingredient on tyrosinase was calculated using the formula below, and the results are shown in Table 4.

[0060] Inhibition rate = [1-(A(d)-A(c)) / (A(b)-A(a))]×100% Table 4 Tyrosinase Inhibition Rate

[0061] Comparing the results of Examples 1-3 with those of Comparative Examples 1-6, it can be seen that when snow lotus extract, acetyl octapeptide-3, and PPG-24-glycerol polyether-24 are used in the specific combination and specific ratio of the present invention, the tyrosinase inhibition efficacy of the whitening composition can be significantly enhanced.

[0062] Comparing the results of Examples 1-3 with Comparative Example 1, it can be seen that the inhibitory effect of Centella asiatica extract on tyrosinase in this combination is far less than that of snow lotus extract. Therefore, the tyrosinase inhibitory effect of the whitening composition can be significantly improved when using the specific combination and specific ratio of the present invention.

[0063] Comparing the results of Examples 1-3 with Comparative Example 2, it can be seen that the inhibitory effect of acetyl tetrapeptide-5 on tyrosinase in this combination is far less than that of acetyl octapeptide-3. Therefore, the tyrosinase inhibitory effect of the whitening composition can be significantly improved when using the specific combination and specific ratio of the present invention.

[0064] Comparing the results of Examples 1-3 with Comparative Example 3, it can be seen that the inhibition rate of PPG-20 methyl glucoether on tyrosinase in this combination is far less than that of PPG-24-glycerol polyether-24. Therefore, the tyrosinase inhibition efficacy of the whitening composition can be significantly improved when using the specific combination and specific ratio of the present invention.

[0065] (iv) In vitro melanin synthesis-related gene expression test 1. Culture of melanocytes PIG1 cells frozen in liquid nitrogen were thawed at 37°C. After complete thawing, they were centrifuged at 1200 rpm for 5 min. The supernatant of the cryopreservation solution was discarded in a clean bench. The cells were resuspended in M254 medium containing 8% fetal bovine serum and HMGS-2 factor and cultured at 37°C and 5% CO2. After the cells adhered, the medium was replaced and cultured for a longer period.

[0066] 2. UVB irradiation PIG1 cells were seeded at a rate of 6 × 10⁵ / mL per dish onto 35 mm diameter cell culture dishes and cultured at 37 °C in a 5% cell culture incubator for 24 h. The culture medium was discarded, and the cells were washed once with 1 × PBS. A small amount of 1 × PBS was added, and the cells were irradiated with ultraviolet light at a dose of 800 mJ / cm² for 133 s. After irradiation, the PBS was discarded, and 2 ml of 30 ppm solutions from Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-6 were accurately pipetted to set up a blank control group.

[0067] 3. MTT assay for detecting changes in cell viability Cells in the logarithmic growth phase were collected, prepared into a cell suspension, and seeded into 96-well plates at a concentration of 2 x 10³ cells / well. After overnight incubation, three replicates were set up for each group. 20 μL MTT solution was added, and the cells were incubated at 37°C for 4 h. After removing the supernatant, 100 μL LDMSO was added to each well to lyse the cells. The absorbance (A) at 490 nm was measured using a microplate reader. The results are shown in Table 5.

[0068] Table 5 Cell viability

[0069] As shown in Table 5, the OD values ​​of cell viability in the solutions of Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-6 were between 0.5 and 1.0, indicating that 800 mJ / cm² was the optimal concentration for cell viability. 2 At an irradiation dose of 133 seconds, ultraviolet radiation had no effect on cell activity.

[0070] 4. Effects of active ingredients on melanin synthesis At 800mJ / cm 2PIGI cells were treated with ultraviolet irradiation at a dose of 133 s. Melanin content in different treatment groups was measured 48 h later. The effects of the experimental groups on melanin synthesis and expression are shown in the table below. The control group was not added with the active ingredient. The results are shown in Table 6.

[0071] Table 6: Melanin Synthesis Expression Level

[0072] Comparing the results of Examples 1-3 with the blank group, it can be seen that when snow lotus extract, acetyl octapeptide-3, and PPG-24-glycerol polyether-24 are used in the specific combination and specific ratio of the present invention, the melanin-reducing effect of the whitening composition can be significantly enhanced.

[0073] Comparing the results of Examples 1-3 with Comparative Example 1, it can be seen that the inhibitory effect of Centella asiatica extract on melanin synthesis expression is far less than that of Saussurea involucrata extract in this combination. Therefore, the melanin-reducing efficacy of the whitening composition can be significantly enhanced when using the specific combination and specific ratio of the present invention.

[0074] Comparing the results of Examples 1-3 with Comparative Example 2, it can be seen that the inhibitory effect of acetyl tetrapeptide-5 on melanin synthesis expression is far less than that of acetyl octapeptide-3 in this combination. Therefore, the melanin-reducing effect of the whitening composition can be significantly improved when using the specific combination and specific ratio of the present invention.

[0075] Comparing the results of Examples 1-3 with Comparative Example 3, it can be seen that the inhibition rate of PPG-20 methyl glucoether on melanin synthesis expression is far less than that of PPG-24-glycerol polyether-24 in this combination. Therefore, the melanin-reducing effect of the whitening composition can be significantly improved when using the specific combination and specific ratio of the present invention.

[0076] 5. Effects of ultraviolet radiation on genes related to melanin synthesis Select UVB dose of 800 mJ / cm 2 Melanocytes were treated, and the cells were harvested 24 hours later. The expression of five melanin synthesis-related genes was detected by RT-PCR.

[0077] The results are as follows Figure 1 As shown, the results indicated that after ultraviolet irradiation, the expression of three genes, TYR (tyrosinase), TRP2 (tyrosinase-associated protein 2) and MART-1 (melanin A), was significantly increased, with significant differences (P<0.05).

[0078] 6. Effects of added active ingredients on melanin synthesis-related genes Select UVB dose of 800 mJ / cm 2Melanocytes were treated with 2 ml of 30 ppm solutions from Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-6, and a blank control group was set up. After 24 h of culture, the cells were harvested, and the expression of TYR, TRP2, and MART-1 genes was detected by RT-PCR. The results are shown in Table 7.

[0079] Table 7: Effects of different experimental groups on the expression levels of three proteins

[0080] Comparing the results of Examples 1-3 with those of Comparative Examples 1-6, it can be seen that when snow lotus extract, acetyl octapeptide-3, and PPG-24-glycerol polyether-24 are used in the specific combination and ratio of the present invention, the expression levels of the three proteins can be significantly reduced, with the inhibitory effect on TRP2 being the most significant.

[0081] Comparing the results of Examples 1-3 with Comparative Example 1, it can be seen that the inhibitory effect of Centella asiatica extract on the expression levels of the three proteins in this combination is far less than that of Saussurea involucrata extract. Therefore, the expression levels of the three proteins can be significantly reduced when using the specific combination and specific ratio of the present invention.

[0082] Comparing the results of Examples 1-3 with Comparative Example 2, it can be seen that the inhibitory effect of acetyl tetrapeptide-5 on the expression of the three proteins in this combination is far less than that of acetyl octapeptide-3. Therefore, when using the specific combination and specific ratio of the present invention, the whitening composition can significantly reduce the expression of the three proteins.

[0083] Comparing the results of Examples 1-3 with Comparative Example 3, it can be seen that the inhibitory effect of PPG-20 methyl glucoether on the expression of the three proteins in this combination is far less than that of PPG-24-glycerol polyether-24. Therefore, when using the specific combination and specific ratio of the present invention, the whitening composition can significantly reduce the expression of the three proteins.

[0084] (iv) Human efficacy testing 1. Preparation of whitening essence lotion Accurately weigh the following raw materials: Aqueous phase: partially water, butanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-hexanediol; Thickening and stabilizing phase: ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / VP copolymer; Emulsifier: Polyglycerol-10 stearate; Oil phase: meadowfoam seed oil, caprylic / capric triglycerides; Low-temperature phase: snow lotus extract, acetyl octapeptide-3, PPG-24-glycerol polyether-24.

[0085] The preparation process is as follows: 1) After adding the aqueous raw materials to the main reaction vessel and dispersing them evenly, start stirring for 10-40 Hz, add the thickening and stabilizing phase, start heating, heat to 75-80℃ until completely dissolved, continue stirring, and keep warm for 5-10 minutes.

[0086] 2) Add the oil phase to the oil dispersion pot, turn on the heating, heat to 75-80℃ until completely dissolved, and then transfer it to the main reaction pot.

[0087] 3) Turn on the homogenizer and stir at 20-40 Hz for 5-10 minutes, then switch to stirring at 10-40 Hz and start cooling simultaneously.

[0088] 4) Cool down to 50℃-48℃, add the low-temperature phase raw materials in sequence, stir evenly, stir at 10-30Hz for 5 minutes, and then discharge.

[0089] The raw materials and composition of the application examples and comparative examples are shown in Table 8 below.

[0090] Table 8: Raw materials and composition of application examples and comparative examples

[0091] 2. Whitening efficacy test Valid participants: 60, age range: (32.4±5.2) years.

[0092] Subject's skin condition: dull skin, pigmentation, poor skin firmness and sensitivity.

[0093] Test reagents: emulsions (Examples 1-4, Comparative Examples 1-6, Control Group).

[0094] Key testing indicators: gloss, L value (lightness value), ITA: Individual type keratin index.

[0095] Experimental Design: Sixty subjects were divided into 6 groups of 10 each. Group 1 used the lotion sample from Example 1 on the left cheek and the lotion sample from Example 2 on the right cheek; Group 2 used the lotion sample from Example 3 on the left cheek and the lotion sample from Example 4 on the right cheek; Group 3 used the lotion sample from Example 5 on the left cheek and the lotion sample from Comparative Example 1 on the right cheek; Group 4 used the lotion sample from Comparative Example 2 on the left cheek and the lotion sample from Comparative Example 3 on the right cheek; Group 5 used the lotion sample from Comparative Example 4 on the left cheek and the lotion sample from Comparative Example 5 on the right cheek; Group 6 used the lotion sample from Comparative Example 6 on the left cheek and the lotion sample from the control group on the right cheek. The specific experimental protocol is as follows: Subjects cleansed their faces with cleansing products under specified environmental conditions, and after washing, they patted their faces dry with lint-free absorbent paper. After sitting quietly in the test environment for 30 minutes, the baseline skin values ​​were tested. Tests were conducted on day 0 (D0), day 30 (T30min), day 7 (D7), day 14 (D14), and day 28 (D28). The ITA° value changes are shown in Table 9. The L value changes are shown in Table 10. The gloss changes are shown in Table 11.

[0096] Table 9: Results of ITA Value Changes

[0097] Table 10: Results of L-value changes

[0098] Table 11: Results of Gloss Changes

[0099] As shown in Tables 9-11, comparing the results of Examples 1-5 with those of Comparative Examples 1-6, it can be seen that the specific combination of the whitening compositions provided by the present invention can effectively enhance the whitening effect of the emulsion.

[0100] Comparing the results of Examples 1-3 with Comparative Example 1, it can be seen that Centella asiatica extract is far less effective than Saussurea in improving skin ITA° value, L value, and radiance in this combination. Therefore, the whitening effect of the lotion can be significantly enhanced when using the specific combination and specific ratio of the present invention.

[0101] Comparing the results of Examples 1-3 with Comparative Example 2, it can be seen that acetyl tetrapeptide-5 is far less effective than acetyl octapeptide-3 in improving skin ITA value, L value, and radiance in this combination. Therefore, the whitening effect of the lotion can be significantly enhanced when using the specific combination and specific ratio of the present invention.

[0102] Comparing the results of Examples 1-3 with Comparative Example 3, it can be seen that PPG-20 methyl glucoether is far less effective than PPG-24-glyceryl polyether-24 in improving skin ITA° value, L value, and gloss in this combination. Therefore, the whitening effect of the lotion can be significantly improved when using the specific combination and specific ratio of the present invention.

[0103] Comparing the results of Example 2 with those of Comparative Examples 4-6, it can be seen that when snow lotus extract, acetyl octapeptide-3, and PPG-24-glyceryl polyether-24 are used in the specific combination and ratio of the present invention, the whitening effect of the emulsion can be effectively enhanced, and the whitening effect of Example 5 is the best.

[0104] Experimental results show that the whitening composition of this application can effectively brighten skin tone, improve skin radiance, and reduce melanin, and very effectively improve / enhance the complexion of Asian skin, achieving unexpected technical effects in whitening efficacy.

[0105] The above description, in conjunction with specific preferred embodiments, provides a further detailed explanation of the present invention. However, it should not be construed that the specific implementation of the present invention is limited to these descriptions. For those skilled in the art, various simple deductions or substitutions can be made without departing from the concept of the present invention, and all such modifications and substitutions should be considered within the scope of protection of the present invention.

Claims

1. A whitening composition suitable for Asian skin, characterized in that, It is composed of the following raw materials in parts by weight: 20-40 parts snow lotus extract, 20-40 parts acetyl octapeptide-3, and 2-20 parts PPG-24-glycerol polyether-24.

2. The whitening composition suitable for Asian skin according to claim 1, characterized in that, The composition includes 30 parts of snow lotus extract, 30 parts of acetyl octapeptide-3, and 10 parts of PPG-24-glycerol polyether-24.

3. The whitening composition suitable for Asian skin according to claim 1, characterized in that, The composition includes 20 parts of snow lotus extract, 20 parts of acetyl octapeptide-3, and 10 parts of PPG-24-glycerol polyether-24.

4. The whitening composition suitable for Asian skin according to claim 1, characterized in that, In the whitening cosmetic, the amount of snow lotus extract added is 0.15-0.9 parts; the amount of acetyl octapeptide-3 added is 0.15-0.9 parts; and the amount of PPG-24-glycerol polyether-24 added is 0.04-0.4 parts.

5. The whitening composition suitable for Asian skin according to claim 1, characterized in that, The snow lotus extract is selected from one or more of snow lotus flower extract, Tian Shan snow lotus cell culture, and snow lotus culture.

6. The application of the whitening composition suitable for Asian skin according to any one of claims 1-5 in cosmetics to promote whitening effects.

7. The application according to claim 6, characterized in that, The application includes any one or more of the following applications: (1) Scavenging DPPH free radicals; (2) Inhibits the activity of tyrosinase; (3) Reduces melanin production; (4) Reduce the expression of TYR, TRP2 and MART-1 genes.

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