Weaving method of brocade fabric with embossed texture based on brocade big-flower wood weaving machine

Abstract

The invention discloses a weaving method of a brocade fabric with embossed texture based on a brocade big-flower satin weaving machine, which solves the problem that the brocade color expression is influenced because one color can only create one texture effect in the processing process of the existing brocade makeup satin product. By means of the embossing texture weaving method, the brocade fabric which is high in stereoscopic impression and rich in color layer can be obtained, and meanwhile the snagging problem can be avoided.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to a method for weaving Yun brocade fabrics with floating floral patterns using a Yun brocade large floral loom. Background Technology

[0002] The traditional hand-weaving technique of Yun brocade on a wooden loom involves using multiple colors of weft yarns through a "carved pattern weaving" method. In the traditional process of weaving Yun brocade satin, the rise and fall of the warp threads needs to be controlled to create an opening. First, the weft guides and shoji (shoji points) on the loom control the rise and fall of the warp threads to form the woven structure; then, the threads on the loom control the rise and fall of the warp threads to form the pattern structure. Currently, on large-format wooden looms, the warp threads used to control the pattern structure are only one color, which severely affects the color expression of Yun brocade, and the fabric surface only displays one woven texture effect. Summary of the Invention

[0003] Purpose of the invention: The purpose of this invention is to provide a weaving method for Yun brocade fabrics with floating floral textures based on a Yun brocade large floral loom. This method solves the problem that existing Yun brocade satin products can only create one texture effect with one color during processing, thus affecting the color expression of Yun brocade.

[0004] Technical solution: The weaving method of the Yun brocade fabric with floating floral texture according to the present invention includes the following steps:

[0005] (1) First determine the area on a pattern that needs to form a floating flower texture. The floating flower texture area should be selected first from the core symbolic parts of the pattern. For example, for flowers, select petals or stamens; for animals, select key features such as dragon scales, phoenix tails, and lion manes.

[0006] (2) After determining the raised texture area, the raised texture is processed in the design painting: First, color differentiation and marking are carried out, that is, the original design painting: a flat monochrome, only showing the outline of the pattern and simple filling; the raised texture area is color-replaced on the design painting, and the raised texture area is marked with a specific color block to form a contrast with the original color. After completion, the raised length is marked, and the raised length value (<3mm, 3~5mm, >5mm) is marked in the raised texture area. For short raised texture (<3mm), the original pattern outline is maintained, and the raised length area is marked with light gray; for medium raised texture (3~5mm), a blue block is added to the raised texture area and marked with "medium raised length"; for long raised texture (>5mm), the long raised length area is marked with a red marking box and marked "requires cutting of design texture tissue". Then, a design texture tissue is selected for cutting; after completing the above operations, the design painting is completed;

[0007] (3) Special treatment areas (areas that form floating patterns) need to undergo different weaving processes than non-special treatment areas (areas that do not form floating patterns, normal areas) during the pattern weaving process. Therefore, when picking patterns, the two different areas need to be separated into two ear threads of the same color in the same weft direction of the fabric. The specific operation method is as follows: the two different areas are divided into two regions in the same weft direction, namely, the visible thread area I and the visible thread area II. The visible thread area I is treated with the normal area picking pattern, and the visible thread area II is treated with the floating pattern area picking pattern. The normal texture ear thread picking pattern is carried out first in the same weft direction, and then the floating texture ear thread picking pattern is carried out.

[0008] (4) During the assembly of the large-format wooden loom, the warp threading diagram and the heddle pattern are respectively... Figure 3 As shown, the heddle pattern determines the path of the warp threads, and the footboard pattern controls the operation of the footboard pedals. The two, through the correspondence between the "pattern" and the "shoji," ensure the precise interlacing of the warp and weft threads during the weaving process. In order to achieve the special texture of the fabric, the normal texture ear thread part in the visible thread area I has the following footboard movement trajectory during the weaving process: 2-4-5-6-8-9-10-12-13-14-2-3-4-6-7-8-10-11-12-14-1. The special ear thread part in the visible thread area II has the following footboard movement trajectory during the weaving process: 2-4-0-6-8-0-10-12-0-14-2-0-4-6-0-8-10-0-12-14-0.

[0009] (5) The structure obtained under the two foot bamboo movement trajectories is as follows: the structure of the visible line area I is: the ground is a seven-warp satin weave, and the pattern is a double weft weave (the colored weft floats on the surface). The structure of the visible line area II (the floating texture area) is: the ground is a seven-warp satin weave, and the pattern is a weft float + local fixation (forming a relief effect and enhancing the three-dimensionality), thus obtaining a brocade fabric with a floating texture.

[0010] In the conventional fabric (existing technology) weaving process, the movement trajectory of the bamboo strips is as follows: 2-4-5-6-8-9-10-12-13-14-2-3-4-6-7-8-10-11-12-14-1. However, in order to achieve the special texture of the fabric, the normal texture loops in the visible thread area I still follow the same bamboo strip movement trajectory during manufacturing: 2-4-5-6-8-9-10-12-13-14-2-3-4-6-7-8-10-11-12-14-1. Meanwhile, the special loops in the visible thread area II follow the same bamboo strip movement trajectory: 2-4-0-6-8-0-10-12-0-14-2-0-4-6-0-8-10-0-12-14-0. The correspondence between the movement trajectory of the heddle and the structure is as follows: In the normal texture area (visible line area I), the movement trajectory of the heddle is 2-4-5-6-8-9-10-12-13-14-2-3-4-6-7-8-10-11-12-14-1, resulting in the following structure: Ground: seven-end satin weave (warp surface effect), Texture: double weft weave (color-revealing weft floats on the surface). In the raised pattern texture area (visible line area II), the heddle trajectory is 2-4-0-6-8-0-10-12-0-14-2-0-4-6-0-8-10-0-12-14-0. The meaning of "0" is: the heddle does not lift the heddle → the warp yarn does not lift the heddle → the weft yarn directly covers the warp yarn to form a floating long line. The resulting structure is: Ground: seven-end satin weave (warp surface effect), Texture: floating long weft + local consolidation (forming a relief effect and enhancing the three-dimensionality).

[0011] Artificial texture structures include one of the following: diagonal cross-texture, grid-like texture, dotted texture, or satin embroidery texture. Diagonal cross-texture is characterized by strong three-dimensionality, distinct layers, and dynamic lines, suitable for: natural landscapes (mountains, water), abstract art (dynamic lines), and scenes requiring enhanced depth. Grid-like texture is characterized by its fine smoothness and rich detail, suitable for: classical paintings (delicate textures), portraits (fine depictions), and geometric patterns. A combination of block and diagonal textures is characterized by distinct blocks, combining dynamism and structure, suitable for: modern abstract geometry, urban architecture, and abstract paintings requiring a strong structural feel. Dotted texture is characterized by its delicate and lively nature, combining dynamism and softness, suitable for: natural elements (drizzle, breeze), delicate abstract paintings, and scenes requiring soft dynamism. Satin embroidery texture does not overpower the main color but rather complements the subject, suitable for use as a base layer and for creating full-coverage scenes.

[0012] Beneficial effects: Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following significant advantages: The present invention can obtain brocade fabric with strong three-dimensionality and rich color layers through the floating pattern weaving method, while avoiding the problem of snagging. Attached Figure Description

[0013] Figure 1 This invention utilizes a floating pattern weaving method to create various weaving textures during the design and drawing stage, which can be applied to large-patterned wooden looms;

[0014] Figure 2 A diagram illustrating the structural principle of splitting two different parts of the same color into two loop threads in the same weft direction of the fabric when making a cross-stitch.

[0015] Figure 3 For the warp threading diagram and heddle pattern during the assembly of the large flower-shaped wooden loom;

[0016] Figure 4 The diagram shows the fabric structure of exposed seam area I and exposed seam area II. a is the warp and weft structure of normal texture, b is the warp and weft structure of normal texture, c is the warp and weft structure of raised texture, and d is the warp and weft structure of raised texture.

[0017] Figure 5 Image of a Yun brocade fabric with an existing Qilin pattern (blue background);

[0018] Figure 6 This is an image where the blue background (the area with the raised floral pattern) is marked in red during the artistic painting process;

[0019] Figure 7 The image shows the cutting of floating elongations longer than 5mm on the background using a technique called "artificial yarn embroidery texture".

[0020] Figure 8 The pattern uses 12 colors of yarn;

[0021] Figure 9 The areas for the embroidery process in areas I and II of the visible line are the embroidery area;

[0022] Figure 10 Images of existing Yun brocade fabrics without raised floral textures;

[0023] Figure 11 The image shows a Yun brocade fabric obtained using the floating pattern weaving method in Example 1.

[0024] Figure 12 for Figure 11 A partial image. Detailed Implementation

[0025] Example 1

[0026] The method of weaving traditional Qilin pattern brocade using the floating texture weaving method of the present invention includes the following steps:

[0027] (1) First, determine that the area in the drawing where the raised texture needs to be formed is the blue background. Then, process the raised texture in the design drawing. On the design drawing, mark the blue background with another color, red, such as... Figure 6 As shown, the blue background area is distinguished from the main blue area. Then, the floating pieces longer than 5mm on the background are cut using a delicate embroidery texture to form... Figure 7 Effect;

[0028] (2) Because the pattern is woven with a total of 12 colors of yarn, such as Figure 8 As shown, the two different parts (the parts requiring embossed texture treatment and the parts not requiring embossed texture treatment) are separated into two ear-shaped threads of the same color along the same weft direction of the fabric. After dividing the two different parts into two areas along the same weft direction, the visible thread area I has a total of 12 colors of ear-shaped threads, while the visible thread area II has one color of ear-shaped threads (the special texture position of color number 12), as shown. Figure 9 As shown, during the embroidery process, the red box area is the exposed line area I, and the blue box area is the exposed line area II. Exposed line area I undergoes normal embroidery processing, while exposed line area II undergoes embroidery processing for the raised embroidery areas. In the same weft direction, normal texture ear lines are embroidery first, and then raised texture ear lines are embroidery.

[0029] (3) During the assembly of the large-patterned wooden loom, after connecting the pattern to the main fibers in the loom, the warp threading diagram and the heddle pattern are completed in sequence, such as... Figure 3 As shown, the heddle pattern determines the path of the warp threads, and the footboard pattern controls the operation of the footboard pedals. The two, through the correspondence between the "pattern" and the "shoji," ensure the precise interlacing of the warp and weft threads during the weaving process. In order to achieve the special texture (floating pattern) of the fabric during the weaving process, the movement trajectory of the footboard in the normal texture loops in the visible thread area I is 2-4-5-6-8-9-10-12-13-14-2-3-4-6-7-8-10-11-12-14-1. The movement trajectory of the footboard in the special loops in the visible thread area II is 2-4-0-6-8-0-10-12-0-14-2-0-4-6-0-8-10-0-12-14-0 ("0" means: the footboard does not lift the heddle → the warp yarn does not lift → the weft yarn directly covers the warp yarn to form a floating long thread).

[0030] (4) Subsequent weaving: The structure of the exposed thread area I: the ground is a 7-end warp satin weave, and the weave is a double weft weave (the colored weft floats on the surface). The structure of the exposed thread area II (relief texture area): the ground is a 7-end warp satin weave, and the weave is a weft float + partial binding (creating an embossed effect and enhancing the three-dimensionality). The structure diagrams of exposed thread area I and exposed thread area II of the fabric are as follows: Figure 4 As shown, the final product is a brocade fabric with a qilin pattern, such as... Figure 11 As shown. Compared to Figure 10 The brocade fabric with the unicorn pattern shown in Example 1 has a stronger three-dimensional effect and richer color layers.

Claims

1. A method for weaving Yun brocade fabric with floating floral texture based on a Yun brocade large-patterned wooden loom, characterized in that, Includes the following steps: (1) First, determine the area on a pattern where the raised floral texture needs to be formed; (2) After determining the floating flower texture area, the floating flower texture is processed in the design drawing: First, the color is distinguished and marked. On the design drawing, the floating flower texture area is replaced with color and the floating flower texture area is marked with a specific color block to contrast with the original color. After completion, the floating length is marked. The floating length value is marked on the floating flower texture area of ​​the design drawing, and different floating length values ​​are marked with different colors. (3) In the same weft direction of the fabric, the same color is split into two ear lines. The two different parts are divided into two areas in the same weft direction, namely the visible line area I and the visible line area II. The visible line area I is treated with normal texture cross-stitching, and the visible line area II is treated with floating texture cross-stitching. The normal texture ear lines are cross-stitched first in the same weft direction, and then the floating texture ear lines are cross-stitched. (4) During the fabrication process of the large-patterned wooden loom, after connecting the pattern to the main fiber in the loom, determine the warp thread path and the movement trajectory of the foot pedal. Among them, the movement trajectory of the foot pedal for the normal texture ear thread in the visible thread area I during the fabrication process is 2-4-5-6-8-9-10-12-13-14-2-3-4-6-7-8-10-11-12-14-1. The movement trajectory of the foot pedal for the special ear thread in the visible thread area II during the fabrication process is 2-4-0-6-8-0-10-12-0-14-2-0-4-6-0-8-10-0-12-14-0. (5) Fabric structure obtained under two foot bamboo movement trajectories: Structure of visible line area I: ground is seven warp satin weave, and weave is double weave; Structure of visible line area II: ground is seven warp satin weave, and weave is weave float + local fixation, resulting in a brocade fabric with floating flower texture.

2. The weaving method of the Yun Brocade fabric with floating floral texture according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step (1), the core symbolic part of the pattern is selected in the floating flower texture area.

3. The weaving method of the Yun brocade fabric with floating floral texture according to claim 2, characterized in that: When the pattern is a flower, select petals or stamens for the floating flower texture area; when the pattern is an animal, select key features, including dragon scales, phoenix tail, or lion mane.

4. The weaving method of the Yun brocade fabric with floating floral texture according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step (2), different floating flower lengths are selected according to the size of the floating flower texture area. The floating flower lengths include short floating flowers <3mm, medium floating flowers 3-5mm and long floating flowers >5mm.

5. The weaving method of the Yun brocade fabric with floating floral texture according to claim 4, characterized in that: For short floating patterns, maintain the original pattern outline and mark the long floating area with light gray; for medium floating patterns, add blue blocks to the floating pattern texture area and mark the medium floating area; for long floating patterns, mark the long floating area with a red marking box and indicate that the design texture is used for cutting, and then select a design texture for cutting.

6. The weaving method of the Yun brocade fabric with floating floral texture according to claim 5, characterized in that: Artificial textures include one of the following: oblique cross textures, grid textures, blocky and oblique combined textures, dotted textures, or embroidery textures.

7. The weaving method of the Yun Brocade fabric with floating floral texture according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step (3), the two different parts refer to the parts that form the floating texture and the parts with normal texture.

Images