Method for preparing algae extract enriched in polar lipids

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for preparing an algae extract from an algae biomass comprising chlorophyll, polar lipids and possibly present triglycerides, said algae extract comprising polar lipids dissolved in 1, 3-propanediol and whose parameter a according to the CIELAB color space is greater than or equal to-5, preferably greater than-10, preferably greater than-10, preferably greater than-10, preferably greater than-10, preferably greater than-10, preferably greater than-10, preferably greater than-10, preferably greater than-10, preferably greater than-10, preferably greater than-10, preferably greater than-10, preferably to the use of said algae extract as a cosmetic active agent, and to a cosmetic composition comprising said algae extract.

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to a novel process for the preparation of an algal extract from an algal biomass comprising chlorophyll, polar lipids and possibly triglycerides, said plant extract comprising polar lipids dissolved in 1,3-propanediol, to its use as a cosmetic active agent and to cosmetic compositions containing it.

[0002] Polar lipids are molecules with a high added value, with a high potential as cosmetic active agents. Polar lipids are understood to be any molecule comprising a lipophilic part (e.g. a fatty chain) and a chemical function which increases the polarity. However, their polarity makes it impossible to simply obtain an extract containing them which is not coloured by the presence of chlorophyll. The colouring of natural extracts by chlorophyll is an important technical obstacle to the preparation of cosmetic formulations, since it limits the incorporation of these extracts in cosmetic formulations and thus forces the formulator to limit the use of this extract or to find a formulation solution.

[0003] Chlorophylls can have various chemical structures, the two main ones being chlorophyll a and b. Chlorophyll a (symbol: "chl a") is the most common photosynthetic pigment in the plant kingdom. It is present in all aquatic and terrestrial plants (≈ 3 g / kg fresh leaves). The measured value of its concentration in water is used as an indicator of the quantity of phytoplankton (the main basis of the aquatic food web). The chlorophyll content in water is given in pg chl a / L. Chlorophyll b is present in lower quantities (≈ 0.75 g / kg fresh matter) in stem-leaf plants (higher plants) and in chlorophycées (green algae). Three other forms are less common, chlorophyll c (cl, c2) identified in phéophycées (brown algae) in particular, chlorophyll d identified in cyanobactéries in 1943 and chlorophyll f identified in certain stromatolithes in 2010, which are characterized by a shift in absorption towards the red compared to the other chlorophylls.

[0004] All the natural extract decolouring techniques today use an additional step after the extraction, thus increasing the energy costs and waste.

[0005] The production of a decoloured extract of polar lipids can be achieved in two ways: by optimising the extraction, in particular by finding a suitable solvent or mixture of solvents to facilitate the extraction of polar lipids but with loss of chlorophyll, and / or by adding a decolouring step according to various known techniques.

[0006] To optimize the extraction, the polar difference between chlorophyll and polar lipids is exploited to facilitate the extraction of polar lipids. Ethanol / ethyl acetate mixtures have been tested at various ratios of the ethanol / ethyl acetate pair, but chlorophyll is still extracted (Chinese Journal of Process Engineering 2019, Vol. 19, No. 1 : 136-143). This type of extraction targets not only polar lipids, but also neutral lipids. The use of supercritical carbon dioxide, in the presence and absence of a co-solvent, facilitates the extraction of lipids as well as chlorophyll (Journal of Supercritical Fluids 47 (2009) 591-597). The authors additionally indicate that the extract thus obtained must be purified by a decolorization step.

[0007] Various decolorization techniques exist, with varying degrees of complexity and industrial feasibility, such as treatment with bleaching clay, liquid / liquid partition extraction and treatment with ion exchange resins. In the case of extraction of polar lipids, the most common techniques are liquid / liquid partition and filtration through bleaching clay. These methods make it possible to remove the chlorophyll present in the extract, but use solvents of petroleum origin, which are particularly harmful to health, or additional consumables such as bleaching clay or activated carbon, which generate additional waste and entail costs related to its destruction or recycling.

[0008] For example, the removal of chlorophyll has been verified by liquid / liquid partition using a hexane / ethanol / water system (Marine Drugs 12(3): 1258-70). This method uses solvents classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic and reproductive toxic substances (known as “CMR”). In addition, hexane also extracts the triglyceride fraction and cannot be distinguished from an oily extract type extract. This method also requires the use of additional water.

[0009] It has also been verified that a fractional extraction, separating polar lipids and neutral lipids, is obtained by treating an ethanol extract by liquid / liquid partition using a hexane / ethanol system (Renewable Energy, Vol. 118, April 2018, pages 521-526). This method requires multiple extraction steps using ethanol and hexane and still does not remove chlorophyll.

[0010] International patent application WO 2021 / 255003 discloses a glycerol-based extract of Himanthalia elongata.

[0011] French patent application FR 3 056 907 discloses an extract of a monospecific algal biomass of cells of macroalgae of the class Floridéophycées in 1,3-butanediol.

[0012] International patent application with publication number WO 2018 / 020101 discloses a method for obtaining an algal biomass of small multicellular macroalgal cells and endophyte of the host microalgae and its use in cosmetics.

[0013] French patent with publication number FR 2 779 646 describes a method for extracting plant oils with a solvent such as ethanol, in which acetone is used to precipitate the polar lipids, then recovered in powder form.

[0014] None of the proposed technologies, except the use of supercritical CO2, complies with the framework of eco-design, since in eco-design, the search for a technical solution must be guided by step economy and thus energy, water and waste economy.

[0015] International patent application with publication number WO 2021 / 255003 discloses a glycerol-based extract of Himanthalia elongata.

[0016] French patent application with publication number FR 3 056 907 discloses an extract of monospecific algal biomass of macroalgal cells of the class Floridéophycées in 1,3-butanediol.

[0017] International patent application with publication number WO 2018 / 020101 discloses a method for obtaining an algal biomass of small multicellular macroalgal cells and endophyte of the host microalgae and its use in cosmetics.

[0018] This is why the inventors have endeavored to develop a new method for preparing an algal extract comprising polar lipids, which makes it possible to omit a specific decolorization step (activated carbon, chromatographic column, liquid / liquid partition, etc.).

[0019] Thus, one subject of the invention is a method for preparing an algal extract from an algal biomass comprising chlorophyll, polar lipids and possibly triglycerides, said algal extract comprising polar lipids dissolved in 1,3-propanediol, and which has a parameter a greater than or equal to -5 according to the parameters a and b of the CIELAB color space, said method being characterized in that it comprises the following steps:

[0020] - step a) providing said algal biomass,

[0021] - step b) extracting the polar lipids, chlorophyll and possibly triglycerides present in the algal biomass by mixing the algal biomass provided in step a) with a first solvent S1 of alcoholic type and / or of apolar type, to obtain a first liquid phase comprising the solvent S1, the residual biomass not dissolved in the solvent S1 and the polar lipids, chlorophyll and possibly triglycerides dissolved in the solvent S1,

[0022] - step c) separating the residual biomass not dissolved in the solvent S1 from the first liquid phase obtained at the end of step b) by filtration, to obtain a second liquid phase comprising the solvent S1, the polar lipids, chlorophyll and possibly triglycerides dissolved in the solvent S1,

[0023] - step d) concentrating the second liquid phase obtained at the end of step c) by at least partial evaporation of the first solvent S1, to obtain a concentrated second liquid phase comprising the solvent S1, the polar lipids, chlorophyll and possibly triglycerides dissolved in the solvent S1,

[0024] - step e) mixing the second liquid phase obtained at the end of step c) or the concentrated second liquid phase obtained at the end of step d) with 1,3-propanediol, to obtain a third liquid phase comprising a mixture of the solvent S1 and 1,3-propanediol, the polar lipids, chlorophyll and possibly triglycerides,

[0025] - step f) removing the first solvent S1 from the third liquid phase obtained in step e) by evaporation, to obtain a fourth liquid phase comprising 1,3-propanediol, chlorophyll and possibly triglycerides not dissolved in 1,3-propanediol and the polar lipids dissolved in 1,3-propanediol, and

[0026] - step g) separating the chlorophyll and possibly triglycerides not dissolved in 1,3-propanediol from the fourth liquid phase obtained in step f) by filtration, to obtain the desired algal extract.

[0027] One subject of the application is also a variant of the process as defined above, i.e. a process for the preparation of an algal extract from an algal biomass comprising chlorophyll, polar lipids and possibly triglycerides, the plant extract comprising polar lipids dissolved in 1,3-propanediol, and which has a parameter a greater than or equal to -5 according to the CIELAB color space, the process being characterized in that it comprises the following steps:

[0028] - step h) providing the algal biomass,

[0029] - step i) extracting polar lipids, chlorophyll and possibly triglycerides present in the algal biomass by mixing the algal biomass provided in step h) with a first solvent S1 of alcoholic type and / or of apolar type and 1,3-propanediol, to obtain a fifth liquid phase comprising solvent S1 and 1,3-propanediol, residual biomass, said polar lipids, chlorophyll and possibly triglycerides,

[0030] - step j) removing the first solvent S1 present in the fifth liquid phase obtained in step i) by evaporation, to obtain a sixth liquid phase comprising 1,3-propanediol, said residual biomass, chlorophyll and possibly triglycerides not dissolved in 1,3-propanediol and said polar lipids dissolved in 1,3-propanediol, and

[0031] - step k) separating said residual biomass, chlorophyll and possibly triglycerides not dissolved in 1,3-propanediol from the sixth liquid phase obtained in step j) by filtration, to obtain said desired algal extract.

[0032] According to the European Economic Community Council Directive No. 76 / 768 / CEE of 27 July 1976, as amended by Directive No. 93 / 35 / CEE of 14 June 1993, the expression "cosmetically acceptable" used in the present invention means any substance or preparation intended to come into contact with the various parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and hair system, nails, lips and genital organs) or with the teeth and oral mucosa, with the aim of cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance and / or correcting their odour and / or protecting them or keeping them in good condition, exclusively and mainly.

[0033] In the present invention, the term "algal extract" means any extract derived from an algal biomass comprising chlorophyll, in particular chlorophyll a, which is the most common photosynthetic pigment in the plant kingdom.

[0034] The algal biomass provided in step a) of the method or in step h) of the variant of the method is previously harvested and preferably dried. Preferably, said dried plant biomass is ground.

[0035] According to one preferred aspect of the method as defined above and of the variant thereof, said algal biomass is in particular chosen from the alga Himanthalia elongata, the alga Alaria esculenta and the alga Halidrys siliquosa.

[0036] According to a particular aspect of the method as defined above, step b) is performed by impregnating the plant biomass in a first solvent S1 of alcoholic type and / or of non-polar type to prepare a mixture of the plant biomass with the first solvent S1 of alcoholic type and / or of non-polar type, then by stirring this mixture under conditions effective to extract the chlorophyll, the polar lipids and possibly the triglycerides present in the plant biomass. The effective conditions are known to the person skilled in the art, depending on the specific solvent S1 chosen and on the specific plant biomass chosen.

[0037] The first solvent S1 of alcoholic type used in the method according to the application and variants thereof is an alcohol or an aqueous solution comprising an alcohol. The alcohol is advantageously chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, methanol or a mixture of two or more of these alcohols. The volume ratio of alcohol to water in the aqueous solution can be between 50% and 99%, more particularly between 60% and 96%.

[0038] According to a preferred aspect of the method as defined above and variants thereof, the first solvent S1 is an aqueous solution of ethanol at 96%. Step b) of the method according to the application is performed, for example, using an aqueous solution of ethanol at 96% as first solvent S1 at a temperature of 35°C to 45°C for about 30 minutes to 3 hours.

[0039] According to a particular aspect of the method as defined above, step b) is performed by continuously passing the first solvent S1 of non-polar type through the plant biomass under conditions effective to extract the chlorophyll, the polar lipids and possibly the triglycerides present in the plant biomass. The effective conditions are known to the person skilled in the art, depending on the specific solvent S1 chosen and on the specific plant biomass chosen.

[0040] The first solvent S1 of non-polar type used in the method according to the application and variants thereof is advantageously chosen from hexane, cyclohexane, methyltetrahydrofuran, benzene, supercritical carbon dioxide or a mixture of two or more of these solvents.

[0041] According to a particular aspect of the method as defined above and variants thereof, the first solvent S1 is supercritical carbon dioxide. Step b) of the method according to the application is performed under conditions known to the person skilled in the art. For example, step b) with supercritical carbon dioxide as first solvent S1 is performed at a pressure of 20 MPa to 60 MPa (200 to 600 bars) and at a temperature of 35°C to 50°C with a flow rate of 5 to 15 kg / h for about 60 minutes to 4 hours.

[0042] The first solvent S1 used in the method according to the application and variants thereof can be a co-solvent of supercritical carbon dioxide and of alcoholic type (alcohol or aqueous solution comprising an alcohol), the alcohol being chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, methanol or a mixture of two or more of these alcohols.

[0043] In a variant of the method according to the invention, the first solvent S1 may be supercritical carbon dioxide and 1,3-propanediol (in step i).

[0044] The first solvent S1 promotes the extraction of chlorophyll, polar lipids and possibly triglycerides present in the plant biomass, and enables the dissolution of chlorophyll, the polar lipids and possibly triglycerides.

[0045] The term "residual biomass" refers to the fibrous material of plant biomass remaining after the extraction of chlorophyll, the polar lipids, and possibly the triglycerides, in step b) of the method according to the invention or step i) of a variant of the method. The first liquid phase obtained in step b) may be in the form of a suspension, wherein the particles of the residual biomass are insoluble in but dispersed in a solvent S1 in which the polar lipids, chlorophyll, and possibly the triglycerides are soluble, especially when the algal biomass provided in step a) is dried and ground to an average particle size that allows the first liquid phase to form a suspension.

[0046] The first liquid phase obtained in step b) may be in the form of a heterogeneous mixture in which residual biomass precipitates from solvent S1 in which the polar lipids, chlorophyll and possibly present triglycerides are soluble.

[0047] At the end of the extraction step, the resulting first liquid phase is then filtered, for example, using a stainless steel basket, to remove residual biomass and obtain a second liquid phase (step c) containing the polar lipids, chlorophyll, and possibly triglycerides soluble therein in the solvent S1.

[0048] The second liquid phase obtained in step c) is concentrated to remove at least a portion of the solvent S1. For example, the solvent S1 is evaporated using, for example, a vacuum evaporator to reduce the volume of the second liquid phase. This concentration step allows for limitations on the size of the reactor used.

[0049] The concentrated second liquid phase obtained at the end of step c) or d) is then mixed with 1,3-propanediol (step e). 1,3-propanediol is added to the concentrated second liquid phase such that chlorophyll extracted from plant biomass and any triglycerides present are insoluble. A third liquid phase is then obtained, comprising a mixture of solvent S1 and 1,3-propanediol, wherein polar lipids are soluble, and chlorophyll extracted from plant biomass and any triglycerides present are insoluble.

[0050] The amount of solvent S1 used depends on the amount of biomass to be extracted provided in step a) or step h), and the amount of solvent S2 depends on the desired mass content of the final solids in the obtained extract. For example, for 50 kg of plant biomass, 600 kg of solvent S1 and 150 kg of 1,3-propanediol are used to obtain an extract with a solids content of 2%.

[0051] According to a preferred aspect of the method and its variations as defined above, the first solvent S1 is a 96% aqueous solution of ethanol, and the second solvent S2 is 1,3-propanediol.

[0052] According to an advantageous variant of the invention, step b) of extraction with solvent S1 and step e) of mixing with 1,3-propanediol are carried out in a single step (step i).

[0053] The extraction of polar lipids, chlorophyll and possibly triglycerides present in the plant biomass in step i) is advantageously carried out by contacting the solvents S1 and 1,3-propanediol simultaneously or sequentially with the plant biomass provided in step h) or by contacting it with a pre-prepared mixture of solvents S1 and 1,3-propanediol.

[0054] Advantageously, the first solvent S1 is a 96% aqueous solution of ethanol, and the second solvent S2 is 1,3-propanediol.

[0055] The mixing of the algal biomass with solvents S1 and 1,3-propanediol, particularly with a mixture of solvents S1 and 1,3-propanediol (e.g., by impregnation and stirring), enables the extraction of polar lipids, chlorophyll, and possibly triglycerides present in the plant biomass, such that the chlorophyll and possibly triglycerides are insoluble in solvents S1 and 1,3-propanediol or in a mixture of solvents S1 and 1,3-propanediol, while dissolving the polar lipids. A fifth liquid phase is then obtained, comprising the solvents S1 and 1,3-propanediol, wherein the polar lipids are soluble and the residual biomass, the chlorophyll extracted from the plant biomass, and the triglycerides are insoluble.

[0056] In a first advantageous alternative, the fifth liquid phase obtained in step i) is then subjected to evaporation to remove the first solvent S1, advantageously until the solvent S1 is completely evaporated, to obtain a sixth liquid phase containing the solvent S2, wherein the polar lipids are soluble and the residual biomass, chlorophyll extracted from algal biomass, and any triglycerides present are insoluble (step j).

[0057] In a second advantageous alternative, the fifth liquid phase obtained in step i) is then subjected to filtration to separate the residual biomass, yielding a sixth liquid phase (step l) comprising solvent S1 and 1,3-propanediol, the polar lipids, chlorophyll, and any triglycerides present. The sixth liquid phase obtained in step l) is then subjected to evaporation to remove the first solvent S1, advantageously until solvent S1 is completely evaporated, yielding a seventh liquid phase comprising 1,3-propanediol, wherein the polar lipids are soluble and the chlorophyll and any triglycerides present extracted from the algal biomass are insoluble (step m).

[0058] Similarly, the third liquid phase obtained in step e) of the method is subjected to evaporation to remove the first solvent S1, advantageously until the solvent S1 is completely evaporated, to obtain a fourth liquid phase containing 1,3-propanediol, wherein the polar lipids are soluble and the chlorophyll extracted from plant biomass and any triglycerides present are insoluble (step f).

[0059] In the case of the method according to the invention and its variations, the removal of solvent S1 promotes the precipitation of chlorophyll and any triglycerides that are insoluble in 1,3-propanediol. The polarity of 1,3-propanediol is important for precipitating chlorophyll and any triglycerides that may be present and for dissolving polar lipids.

[0060] Advantageously, the boiling point of solvent S1 is lower than that of 1,3-propanediol.

[0061] After separating insoluble or precipitated substances by filtration (g), (k), or (n), an algal extract containing polar lipids dissolved in 1,3-propanediol is obtained.

[0062] According to a preferred aspect of the method and its variations as defined above, the polar lipids belong to the following categories:

[0063] - Mode Free fatty acids and their hydroxylated and unsaturated derivatives, wherein R1 represents a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic alkyl group containing 5 to 23 carbon atoms and optionally one or more hydroxyl functional groups.

[0064] - Glycolipids, especially digalactoside diacylglycerols, digalactoside monoacylglycerols, monogalactoside diacylglycerols, monogalactoside monoacylglycerols, sulfoquinovosyl diacylglycerides, and / or sulfoquinovosyl monoacylglycerides.

[0065] - Phospholipids, such as phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylinositol, lysophosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidic acid, phosphatidylcholine, and lysophosphatidylcholine.

[0066] - Sphingolipids, and

[0067] - Diterpenoids.

[0068] The resulting algal extract is advantageously free of both chlorophyll and triglycerides. This is achieved by the extract according to parameter a in the CIELAB color space. Proof that it is greater than or equal to -5.

[0069] In the international colorimetric system, L a b The system parameters represent the following characteristics:

[0070] Brightness L It takes values ​​between 0 (black) and 100 (base white);

[0071] Parameter a This represents the value along the green → red axis;

[0072] Parameter b This represents the value on the blue → yellow axis.

[0073] Parameter a In the field of colorimetry (CIE system), it is commonly used to measure color values ​​along the green-red axis. Specifically, parameter a It describes the position between the opposing colors green and red. If a < 0, the color tends towards green, if a > 0, the color tends towards red. When a At > -5, the green coloration associated with chlorophyll cannot be distinguished by the naked eye.

[0074] Another subject of the invention relates to a plant extract comprising polar lipids dissolved in 1,3-propanediol, and wherein the extract is categorized according to parameter a in the CIELAB color space. It is greater than or equal to -5, and is obtained by the method defined above.

[0075] Another subject of the invention is an algal extract comprising polar lipids dissolved in 1,3-propanediol, and which, according to parameter a in the CIELAB color space Greater than or equal to -5, which is obtained through a variant of the method defined above.

[0076] According to a preferred aspect of the invention, the algal extract as defined above comprises polar lipids, which belong to the following categories:

[0077] - Mode Free fatty acids and their hydroxylated and unsaturated derivatives, wherein R1 represents a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic alkyl group containing 5 to 23 carbon atoms and optionally one or more hydroxyl functional groups.

[0078] - Glycolipids, especially digalactoside diacylglycerols, digalactoside monoacylglycerols, monogalactoside diacylglycerols, monogalactoside monoacylglycerols, sulfoquinovosyl diacylglycerides, and / or sulfoquinovosyl monoacylglycerides.

[0079] - Phospholipids, such as phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylinositol, lysophosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidic acid, phosphatidylcholine, and lysophosphatidylcholine.

[0080] - Sphingolipids, and

[0081] - Diterpenoids.

[0082] Another subject of this invention is the use of algae extracts as defined above as cosmetic surfactants in topical cosmetic compositions.

[0083] For the purposes of this invention, the term "cosmetic surfactant" is understood to refer to a chemical substance, chemical composition, or extract derived from plant biomass that exhibits specific biological properties, such as:

[0084] - Properties of preventing and / or treating the unsightly effects of aging skin and / or lips.

[0085] - The moisturizing properties of different layers of the skin, especially the stratum corneum of the epidermis.

[0086] - Soothes skin, scalp, mucous membranes, or lips, such as preventing and / or reducing and / or treating redness and / or itching and / or stinging and / or tightness.

[0087] - Skin cleansing properties for the skin, scalp, mucous membranes, or lips.

[0088] - Lipolysis properties,

[0089] - Hair follicle regeneration properties,

[0090] - Properties that prevent hair follicle loss.

[0091] Another subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition for topical use, comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable ingredient and an effective amount of an algae extract as defined above.

[0092] The term "topical application" as used in the definition of cosmetic compositions that are the subject of this invention means that the composition is formulated to be applied to the skin, hair, scalp, nails, lips, mucous membranes, eyelashes, or eyebrows, whether directly or indirectly, for example, when the composition is contained in a body care product in the form of textiles or tissues or in a hygiene product intended to come into contact with the skin, hair, scalp, nails, lips, mucous membranes, eyelashes, or eyebrows.

[0093] In this invention, cosmetically acceptable ingredients are chemical and / or biological additives commonly used in the field of topical formulations. Typically, the algal extracts that are the subject of this invention can be combined with chemical and / or biological additives commonly used in the field of topical formulations, such as foaming and / or detergent surfactants, thickening and / or gelling surfactants, thickening and / or gelling agents, stabilizers, film-forming compounds, solvents and co-solvents, water-soluble aids, thermal or mineral water, plasticizers, emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers, opacifiers, pearlescent agents, superfatting agents, sequestrants, chelating agents, oils, waxes, antioxidants, fragrances, essential oils, preservatives, conditioning agents, deodorants, whitening agents intended to bleach body hair and skin, active ingredients intended to provide therapeutic and / or protective effects on skin or hair, sunscreens, mineral fillers or pigments, particles that provide visual effects or are intended to encapsulate active agents, exfoliating particles, texture-regulating agents, fluorescent whitening agents, insect repellents, or probiotic combinations.

[0094] The term "effective amount" of algae extract as defined above is understood to mean the amount of the extract, based on 100% of the mass of the composition, between 0.05% by mass and 10% by mass, more particularly between 0.1% by mass and 5% by mass, and even more particularly between 0.5% by mass and 2% by mass.

[0095] According to a preferred aspect of the invention, the cosmetic composition, which is the subject of the invention, comprises, by weight of 100%,:

[0096] - 0.05% to 10% by mass of algal extracts as defined above or plant extracts obtained by methods as defined above, and

[0097] - At least one cosmetically acceptable ingredient, ranging from 90% to 99.95% by mass.

[0098] The cosmetic compositions that are the subject of this invention are in the form of aqueous solutions, water-alcohol solutions, or water-diol solutions, suspensions, emulsions, microemulsions, or nanoemulsions, whether they are water-in-oil, oil-in-water, water-in-oil-in-water, or oil-in-water-in-oil types, or in powder form.

[0099] The cosmetic compositions that are the subject of this invention can be packaged in bottles, in devices of the "pump bottle" type, in a pressurized form in aerosol devices, in devices equipped with perforated walls, such as grids, or in devices equipped with ball applicators (also known as "balls").

[0100] Examples of foaming and / or detergent surfactants that can be combined with algae extracts in cosmetic compositions that are the subject of this invention, as defined above, include anionic, cationic, amphoteric, or nonionic foaming and / or detergent surfactants.

[0101] In anionic foaming and / or detergent surfactants that can be combined with algae extracts in cosmetic compositions that are the subject of this invention as defined above, the following salts of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium, amines, or amino alcohols may be mentioned: alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl amide ether sulfates, alkyl aryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, α-olefin sulfonates, alkyl sulfonates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl sulfonates, alkyl amide sulfonates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, alkyl carboxylates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl amide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, alkyl sarcosine salts, acyl hydroxyethyl sulfonates, N-acyl taurines, acyl lactates, amino acid N-acylated derivative salts, peptide N-acylated derivative salts, protein N-acylated derivative salts, or fatty acid N-acylated derivative salts.

[0102] Among amphoteric foaming and / or detergent surfactants, alkyl betaine, alkylamido betaine, sulfobetaine, alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaine, imidazoline derivatives, phosphate betaine, amphoteric polyacetate and amphoteric propionate may be mentioned.

[0103] In particular, quaternary ammonium derivatives may be mentioned in cationic foaming and / or detergent surfactants that can be combined with algae extracts in cosmetic compositions that are the subject of this invention, as defined above.

[0104] In cosmetic compositions that can be combined with algae extracts as defined above, which are the subject of this invention, the following nonionic foaming and / or detergent surfactants may be mentioned more specifically: alkyl polyglycosides comprising linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated aliphatic groups and containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as octyl polyglucoside, decyl polyglucoside, undecenyl polyglucoside, dodecyl polyglucoside, tetradecyl polyglucoside, hexadecyl polyglucoside, or 1,12-dodecadiyl polyglucoside; ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil derivatives, such as products sold under the INCI name "PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil"; polysorbates, such as polysorbate 20, polysorbate 40, polysorbate 60, polysorbate 70, polysorbate 80, or polysorbate 85; cocoamide; or N-alkylamines.

[0105] Examples of thickening and / or gelling surfactants that can be combined with algae extracts in cosmetic compositions as defined above, which are the subject of this invention, include optionally alkoxylated alkyl polyglucan fatty acid esters, such as ethoxylated methyl polyglucosides, for example PEG 120 methyl glucose trioleate and PEG 120 methyl glucose dioleate sold under the names Glutamate™ LT and Glutamate™ DOE120, respectively; alkoxylated fatty acid esters, such as PEG 150 pentaerythritol tetrastearate sold under the name Crothix™ DS53 or PEG 55 propylene glycol oleate sold under the name Antil™ 141; and fatty chain polyalkylene glycol carbamates, such as PPG-14 lauryl ether isophoryl dicarbamate sold under the name Elfacos™ T211 or PPG-14 palmitol polyether-60 hexyl dicarbamate sold under the name Elfacos™ GT2125.

[0106] Examples of thickeners and / or gelling agents that can be combined with algae extracts in cosmetic compositions as defined above, which are the subject of this invention, include linear or branched or crosslinked polymers of the polyelectrolyte type, such as partially or fully salted acrylic homopolymers, partially or fully salted methacrylic acid homopolymers, partially or fully salted 2-methyl-(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino-1-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS) homopolymers, copolymers of acrylic acid and AMPS, copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and AMPS, copolymers of AMPS and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, copolymers of AMPS and 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, copolymers of AMPS and hydroxyethyl acrylamide, copolymers of AMPS and N,N-dimethylacrylamide, copolymers of AMPS and tris(hydroxymethyl)acryloylaminomethane (THAM), copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, and copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate. Copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and THAM; copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and N,N-dimethylacrylamide; terpolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, AMPS and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate; terpolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, AMPS and 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylic acid; terpolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, AMPS and THAM; terpolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, AMPS and N,N-dimethylacrylamide; terpolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, AMPS and acrylamide; copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and alkyl acrylates (whose carbon chain contains 4 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly 10 to 30 carbon atoms); copolymers of AMPS and alkyl acrylates (whose carbon chain contains 4 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly 10 to 30 carbon atoms); linear, branched, or crosslinked terpolymers of at least one monomer having a free, partially salt-forming, or fully salt-forming strong acid functional group and at least one neutral monomer and at least one monomer of formula (XIII):

[0107]

[0108] R'3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, R'4 represents a straight-chain or branched alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and n' represents a number greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 50.

[0109] The linear, branched, or crosslinked polymers of the polyelectrolyte type that can be combined with algae extracts in cosmetic compositions that are the subject of this invention as defined above can be provided in the form of solutions, aqueous suspensions, water-in-oil emulsions, oil-in-water emulsions, or powders. The polyelectrolyte-type linear, branched, or crosslinked polymer that can be combined with a hydroalcoholic extract obtained from the biomass of the aerial parts of plants in the Plumbaginacée family (Ci) may be selected from: Simulgel™ EG, Simulgel™ EPG, Sepigel™ 305, Simulgel™ 600, Simulgel™ NS, Simulgel™ INS 100, Simulgel™ FL, Simulgel™ A, Simulgel™ SMS 88, Sepinov™ EMT10, Sepiplus™ 400, Sepiplus™ 265, Sepiplus™ S, Sepimax™ Zen, Sepilife™ Nude, Aristoflex™ AVC, Aristoflex™ AVS, Aristoflex™ AVL, Aristoflex™ BLV, Aristoflex™ Silk, Aristoflex™ TAC, Aristoflex™ Velvet, Aristoflex™ A60, and Aristoflex™ ECO. T, Aristoflex™ PEA, Aristoflex™ PEA 70, Novemer™ EC-1, Novemer™ EC 2, Aristoflex™ HMB, Cosmedia™ SP, Flocare™ ET 25, Flocare™ ET75, Flocare™ ET 26, Flocare™ ET 30, Flocare™ ET 58, Flocare™ PSD 30, Viscolam™ AT 64. Products sold by Viscolam™ AT 100, Texique™ HE 10, Texique™ HE 20, Texique™ PQ 37.

[0110] As an example of a thickener and / or gelling agent that can be combined with algae extracts in cosmetic compositions that are the subject of this invention as defined above, polysaccharides composed entirely of monosaccharides, such as dextran or glucose homopolymers, glucomannan, xylan, galactomannan, whose degree of substitution (DS) of D-galactose units on the D-mannose backbone is between 0 and 1, more particularly between 1 and 0.25, such as galactomannan derived from cassia gum (DS = 1 / 5), locust bean gum (DS = 1 / 4), tara gum (DS = 1 / 3), guar gum (DS = 1 / 2), or fenugreek gum (DS = 1).

[0111] Examples of thickeners and / or gelling agents that can be combined with algae extracts in cosmetic compositions that are the subject of this invention as defined above include polysaccharides composed of monosaccharide derivatives, such as sulfated galactan, more particularly carrageenan and agar, uronans, more particularly alginate, alginate and pectin, hybrids of monosaccharides and uronic acids, more particularly xanthan gum, gellan gum, gum arabic exudate and ebony gum exudate, or glucosamine polysaccharides.

[0112] Examples of thickeners and / or gelling agents that can be combined with algae extracts in cosmetic compositions that are the subject of this invention, as defined above, include cellulose, cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, silicates, starch, hydrophilic starch derivatives, or polyurethanes.

[0113] Examples of stabilizers that can be combined with algae extracts in cosmetic compositions that are the subject of this invention, as defined above, include microcrystalline waxes, more particularly ceresin waxes, mineral salts such as sodium chloride or magnesium chloride, or organosilicon polymers such as polysiloxane polyalkyl polyether copolymers.

[0114] Examples of solvents that can be combined with algae extracts in cosmetic compositions that are the subject of this invention, as defined above, include water, organic solvents such as glycerin, diglycerin, glycerol oligomers, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-propanediol, hexanediol, diethylene glycol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol, water-soluble alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, or butanol, or mixtures of water and said organic solvents.

[0115] Examples of thermal or mineral water that can be combined with algae extracts in cosmetic compositions as defined above, which are the subject of this invention, include thermal or mineral water with a mineralization of at least 300 mg / L, particularly Avene water, Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, La Roche-Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint-Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevard-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Les Fumades water, and Tercis-les-Bains water.

[0116] Examples of water-soluble adjuvants that can be combined with algal extracts in compositions that are the subject of this invention as defined above include xylene sulfonate, cumene sulfonate, hexyl polyglucoside, 2-ethylhexyl polyglucoside, or n-heptyl polyglucoside.

[0117] Examples of emulsifying surfactants that can be combined with algae extracts in cosmetic compositions that are the subject of this invention, as defined above, include nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, or cationic surfactants.

[0118] As an example of a nonionic emulsifying surfactant that can be combined with algae extracts in cosmetic compositions that are the subject of this invention, as defined above, esters of fatty acids and sorbitol, such as those named Montane™ 40, Montane™ 60, Montane™ 70, Montane™ 80, and Montane™ Products sold under the name Simulsol™ 165; compositions comprising glyceryl stearate and stearic acid ethoxylated with 5 mol to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, such as compositions sold under the name Simulsol™ 165 comprising stearic acid ethoxylated with 135 mol of ethylene oxide and glyceryl stearate; dehydrated mannitol esters; ethoxylated dehydrated mannitol esters; sucrose esters; methyl glucoside esters; alkyl polyglycosides comprising linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic groups and comprising 14 to 36 carbon atoms, such as tetradecyl polyglucoside, hexadecyl polyglucoside, octadecyl polyglucoside, hexadecyl xyloside, octadecyl xyloside, eicosyl polyglucoside, dodecyl polyglucoside, 2-octyl dodecyl xyloside, or 12-hydroxystearyl polyglucoside; compositions comprising linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols comprising 14 to 36 carbon atoms and alkyl polyglycosides as described above, such as those sold under the names Montanov™ 68, Montanov™ 14. Combinations sold by Montanov™ 82, Montanov™ 202, Montanov™ S, Montanov™ WO18, Montanov™ L, Fluidanov™ 20X and Easynov™.

[0119] Examples of anionic emulsifying surfactants that can be combined with algae extracts in cosmetic compositions that are the subject of this invention as defined above include glyceryl stearate, cetearyl alcohol sulfate, soaps such as sodium stearate or triethanolamine stearate, or N-acylated derivatives of salted amino acids, such as stearoyl glutamate.

[0120] Examples of cationic emulsifying surfactants that can be combined with algae extracts in cosmetic compositions that are the subject of this invention, as defined above, include amine oxides, quaternary ammonium salts-82, and surfactants described in patent application WO96 / 00719, and primarily those whose fatty chains contain at least 16 carbon atoms.

[0121] Examples of emulsifiers and / or pearlescent agents that can be combined with algae extracts in cosmetic compositions that are the subject of this invention as defined above include sodium palmitate, sodium stearate, sodium hydroxystearate, magnesium palmitate, magnesium stearate, magnesium hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate, polyethylene glycol monostearate, polyethylene glycol distearate, or fatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0122] Examples of texture modifiers that can be combined with algae extracts in cosmetic compositions that are the subject of this invention as defined above include N-acylated derivatives of amino acids, such as lauroyl lysine sold under the name Aminohope™ LL, octenyl succinate starch ester sold under the name Dryflo™, myristyl polyglucoside sold under the name Montanov™ 14, cellulose fibers, cotton fibers, chitosan fibers, talc, sericite, or mica.

[0123] Examples of deodorants that can be combined with algae extracts in cosmetic compositions as defined above, which are the subject of this invention, include alkali metal silicates; zinc salts, such as zinc sulfate, zinc gluconate, zinc chloride, or zinc lactate; quaternary ammonium salts, such as hexadecyltrimethylammonium salt or hexadecylpyridinium salt; glycerol derivatives, such as glyceryl decanoate, glyceryl caprylate, polyglyceryl decanoate; 1,2-decanediol; 1,3-propanediol; salicylic acid; sodium bicarbonate; cyclodextrin; metal zeolites; Tricl osan™; aluminum hydroxyl bromide, aluminum hydroxyl chloride, aluminum chloride, aluminum sulfate, aluminum hydroxyl zirconium chloride, trichloroaluminum zirconium, tetrachloroaluminum zirconium, pentachloroaluminum zirconium, octachloroaluminum zirconium, aluminum sulfate, sodium aluminum lactate, or complexes of aluminum hydroxyl chloride and glycols, such as complexes of aluminum hydroxyl chloride and propylene glycol, complexes of aluminum dichloride and propylene glycol, complexes of sesquichlorinated aluminum hydroxyl and propylene glycol, complexes of aluminum hydroxyl chloride and polyethylene glycol, complexes of aluminum dichloride and polyethylene glycol, or complexes of sesquichlorinated aluminum hydroxyl and polyethylene glycol.

[0124] As examples of oils that can be combined with algae extracts in cosmetic compositions that are the subject of this invention, as defined above, the following compounds may be mentioned:

[0125] - Straight-chain alkanes containing 11 to 19 carbon atoms, such as n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecanane, n-hexadecane, n-heptadecane, n-octadecane, or n-nonadecanane;

[0126] - Branched alkanes containing 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as isododecane, isopentadecane, isohexadecane, isohexadecane, isohexadecane, isohexadecane, isohexadecane, or isoeicosane, or mixtures thereof, as mentioned below and identified by their INCI names: C7-8 isoalkanes, C8-9 isoalkanes, C9-11 isoalkanes, C9-12 isoalkanes, C9-13 isoalkanes, C9-14 isoalkanes, C9-16 isoalkanes, C10-11 isoalkanes, C10-12 isoalkanes, C10-13 isoalkanes, C11-12 isoalkanes, C11-13 isoalkanes, C11-14 isoalkanes, C12-14 isoalkanes, C12-20 isoalkanes, C13-14 isoalkanes, or C13-16 isoalkanes;

[0127] - cycloalkanes optionally substituted with one or more straight-chain or branched alkyl groups;

[0128] - White mineral oils, such as those sold under the following names: Marcol™ 52, Marcol™ 82, Drakeol™ 6VR, Eolane™ 130, Eolane™ 150;

[0129] - Hemisqualane (or 2,6,10-trimethyldodecane; CA No.: 3891-98-3), squalane (or 2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyltetracosane), hydrogenated polyisobutylene or hydrogenated polydecene;

[0130] - A mixture containing 15 to 19 carbon atoms of alkanes, said alkanes being straight-chain alkanes, branched alkanes, and cycloalkanes, and more particularly a mixture (M1) comprising, by mass, greater than or equal to 90% and less than or equal to 100% by mass of branched alkanes, greater than or equal to 0% and less than or equal to 9%, more particularly less than 5% by mass of straight-chain alkanes, and greater than or equal to 0% and less than or equal to 1% by mass of cycloalkanes, such as mixtures sold under the names Emogreen™ L15 or Emogreen™ L19;

[0131] - Mixtures of straight-chain alkanes, such as a mixture of n-undecane and n-tetrazane, sold under the trademark CetiolUltimate™;

[0132] - A mixture of straight-chain alkanes, such as a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane, sold under the trademark Vegelight™ 12-14;

[0133] - Fatty alcohol ethers of formula (II):

[0134] Z1-O-Z2 (II), wherein Z1 and Z2 may be the same or different, representing a straight-chain or branched alkyl group containing 5 to 18 carbon atoms, such as dioctyl ether, didecyl ether, bis(dodecyl) ether, dodecyl octyl ether, bis(hexadecyl) ether, (1,3-dimethylbutyl)tetradecyl ether, (1,3-dimethylbutyl)hexadecyl ether, bis(1,3-dimethylbutyl) ether or dihexyl ether;

[0135] Monoesters of fatty acids and alcohols of formula (III):

[0136] ,

[0137] Where R'1-(C=O) represents a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched acyl group containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and R'2, independent of R'1, represents a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbon chain containing 1 to 24 carbon atoms, such as methyl lauryl, ethyl lauryl, propyl lauryl, isopropyl lauryl, butyl lauryl, 2-butyl lauryl, hexyl lauryl, methyl cocoate, ethyl cocoate, propyl cocoate, isopropyl cocoate, butyl cocoate, 2-butyl cocoate, hexyl cocoate, methyl myristate, ethyl myristate, propyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate, 2-butyl myristate, and so on. Hexyl myristate, octyl myristate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, propyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl palmitate, 2-butyl palmitate, hexyl palmitate, octyl palmitate, methyl oleate, ethyl oleate, propyl oleate, isopropyl oleate, butyl oleate, 2-butyl oleate, hexyl oleate, octyl oleate, methyl stearate, ethyl stearate, propyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, 2-butyl stearate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, methyl isostearate, ethyl isostearate, propyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, butyl isostearate, 2-butyl isostearate, hexyl isostearate, or isostearate.

[0138] Diesters of fatty acids and glycerol of formulas (IV) and (V):

[0139]

[0140] In formulas (VI) and (VII), R'3-(C=O), R'4-(C=O), R'5-(C=O) and R'6-(C=O) can be the same or different, representing saturated or unsaturated and straight or branched acyl groups containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms;

[0141] - Formula (VI) fatty acids and glycerol triesters:

[0142]

[0143] R'7-(C=O), R'8-(C=O) and R'9-(C=O) can be the same or different, representing saturated or unsaturated and straight or branched acyl groups containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms;

[0144] - Vegetable oils, such as vegetable squalane, sweet almond oil, coconut oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, pavot oil, pumpkin seed oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, safflower oil, kukui oil, passion fruit oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, shea butter, almond oil, calophyllum oil, garlic mustard oil, avocado oil, calendula oil, or oils derived from flowers or vegetables;

[0145] -Ethoxylated vegetable oil.

[0146] In this patent application, "oil" is understood to mean a compound and / or a mixture of compounds that are insoluble in water and exhibit a liquid appearance at a temperature of 25°C.

[0147] Examples of waxes that can be combined with algae extracts in cosmetic compositions that are the subject of this invention, as defined above, include beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, aucubin wax, Japanese wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax, microcrystalline wax, lanolin wax; ceresin wax; polyethylene wax; silicone wax; plant wax; fatty alcohols and fatty acids that are solid at ambient temperature; or glycerides that are solid at ambient temperature. In this patent application, "wax" is understood to mean compounds and / or mixtures of compounds that are insoluble in water and exhibit a solid appearance at a temperature greater than or equal to 45°C.

[0148] Examples of active ingredients that can be combined with algal extracts in compositions as defined above, which are the subject of this invention, include vitamins and their derivatives, particularly their esters, such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters (e.g., retinyl palmitate), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its esters, sugar derivatives of ascorbic acid (e.g., ascorbate glucoside), tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (e.g., tocopheryl acetate), vitamin B3 or B10 (niacinamide and its derivatives); compounds exhibiting skin brightening or depigmenting effects, such as ω-undecenoyl phenylalanine, ω-undecenoyl phenylalanine monoglycerides and / or diesters, ω-undecenoyl dipeptide, arbutin, kojic acid, hydroquinone, sold under the names Sepiwhite™ MSH, Sepicalm™ VG; and compounds exhibiting soothing effects, particularly Sepicalm™ S, allantoin and bisabolol; anti-inflammatory agents; compounds exhibiting moisturizing effects, such as urea, hydroxyurea, glycerin, polyglycerol, glyceryl glucoside, diglyceryl glucoside, polyglyceryl glucoside, xylosyl polyglucoside; polyphenol-rich plant extracts, such as grape extract, pine extract, wine extract, or olive extract; compounds exhibiting slimming or lipolysis effects, such as caffeine or its derivatives, Adiposlim™, Adipoless™, or fucoxanthin; N-acylated proteins; N-acylated peptides, such as Matrixil™; N-acylated amino acids; partially hydrolyzed products of N-acylated proteins; amino acids; peptides; total hydrolyzed products of proteins; soybean extracts, such as Raffermine™; wheat extracts, such as Tensine™ or Gliadine™; marine plant extracts; marine extracts in general, such as coral; essential oil waxes; bacterial extracts; ceramides; phospholipids; compounds exhibiting antimicrobial or purifying effects, such as Lipacide™ C8G, Lipacide™ UG, Sepicontrol™ A5, Octopirox™, or Sensiva™ SC50; compounds exhibiting stimulating or excitatory properties, such as Physiogenyl™, or panthenol and its derivatives, such as Sepip™ MP; anti-aging activators, such as Sepilift™ DPHP, Lipacide™ PVB, Sepivinol™, Sepivital™, Manoliva™, Phyto-Age™, Timecode™, or Survicode™; anti-photoaging activators; activators that protect the integrity of the dermal-epidermal junction; activators that increase the synthesis of extracellular matrix components (such as collagen, elastin, or glycosaminoglycans); activators that favorably act on chemical cell communication, such as cytokines, or activators that favorably act on physical cell communication, such as integrins;Active agents that produce a "warming" sensation on the skin, such as skin microcirculation activators (e.g., niacin derivatives) or products that produce a "cooling" sensation on the skin (e.g., menthol and its derivatives); active agents that improve skin microcirculation, such as veinotoniques; drainage active agents; active agents with decongestant effects, such as extracts of ginkgo, ivy, horse chestnut, bamboo, ruscus, petit houx, centella asiatica, fucus vesiculosus, rosemary, or willow; skin tanning agents, such as dihydroxyacetone (DHA), erythritol, mesotartaricaldehyde, glutaraldehyde, glyceraldehyde, alluronide, ninhydrin; plant extracts, such as rosewoods from the genera *Pteropus* and *Baphia*, such as *Pteropus santalinus*, *Pterocarpus osun*, *Pterocarpus soyauxii*, and *Pterocarpus erinaceus*. Extracts of *Pterocarpus indicus*, *Pterocarpus erinaceus*, or *Pterocarpus nitida*, such as those described in European patent application EP 0 971 683; agents known for promoting and / or accelerating the darkening and / or coloring of human skin and / or their skin-pigmenting effects, such as carotenoids (more particularly β-carotene and γ-carotene), products sold by Provital under the trademark "Carrot oil" (INCI name: *Daucus carota*, *Helianthus annuus* Sunflower Oil), which contain carotenoids, vitamin E, and vitamin K;Tyrosine and / or its derivatives, known for their ability to accelerate skin darkening in combination with exposure to ultraviolet radiation, include products such as those sold by Provital under the trademark "SunTan Accelerator™," containing tyrosine and riboflavin (vitamin B); a complex of tyrosine and tyrosinase sold by Zymo Line under the trademark "Zymo TanComplex"; a product sold by Mibelle under the trademark "MelanoBronze™" (INCI name: acetyltyrosine, Monk's Pepper Extract), containing acetyltyrosine; a product sold by Unipex under the trademark "Unipertan VEG-24 / 242 / 2002" (INCI name: butylene glycol and acetyltyrosine and hydrolyzed vegetable protein and adenosine triphosphate); and a product sold by Sederma under the trademark "Try-Excell™." INCI name: oleoyltyrosine and loofah (seed) oil and oleic acid), containing zucchini seed extract (or loofah oil), products sold by Alban Muller under the trademark "Actibronze™" (INCI name: hydrolyzed wheat protein and acetyltyrosine and copper gluconate), products sold by Synerga under the trademark Tyrostan™ (INCI name: hexanoyltyrosine potassium), products sold by Synerga under the trademark Tyrosinol (INCI name: sorbitan isostearate, glyceryl oleate, hexanoyltyrosine), products sold by Alban Muller under the trademark InstaBronze™ (INCI name: dihydroxyacetone and acetyltyrosine and copper gluconate), and products sold by Exymol under the trademark Tyrosilane (INCI name: methylsilanol and acetyltyrosine).Peptides known for their melanin-activating effects, such as the product sold by Infinitec Activos under the trademark Bronzing SF Peptide Powder (INCI name: dextran and octapeptide-5), the product sold under the trademark Melitane (INCI name: glycerol and water and dextran and acetyl hexapeptide-1), which contains acetyl hexapeptide-1 known for its α-MSH agonist effects, the product sold by Lipotec under the trademark Melatimes Solutions™ (INCI name: butylene glycol, palmitoyl tripeptide-40), sugars and sugar derivatives, such as the product sold by Provital under the trademark Tanositol™ (INCI name: inositol), the product sold by Codif International under the trademark Thalitan™ (or Phycosaccharide™ AG) containing marine-derived oligosaccharides (guluronic acid and mannan chelated with magnesium and manganese ions) (INCI name: water and hydrolyzed alginate (kelp palmatum) and magnesium sulfate and manganese sulfate), and the product sold by Alban Products sold by Muller under the trademark Melactiva™ (INCI name: maltodextrin, Mucuna pruriens seed extract); flavonoid-rich compounds, such as those sold by Silab under the trademark "Biotanning" (INCI name: Citrus Aurantium Dulcis fruit extract) and known to be rich in (hesperidin type) limonenes; agents intended for the treatment of hair and / or body hair, such as agents for protecting hair follicle melanocytes against cytotoxic agents that cause senescence and / or apoptosis of the melanocytes, such as those selected from publication number EP1 515 688. The dopachrome tautomerism mimics described in European Patent Application A2, SOD-mimicking molecules such as manganese complexes, antioxidant compounds such as cyclodextrin derivatives, silica-containing compounds derived from ascorbic acid, lysine pyrrolidone carboxylates or arginine pyrrolidone carboxylates, combinations of cinnamic acid monoesters and diesters with vitamin C, and more generally, those mentioned in European Patent Application Publication No. EP 1 515 688 A2.

[0149] Examples of probiotics that can be combined with algae extracts in cosmetic compositions that are the subject of this invention, as defined above, include strains of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Bacillus cereus var. toyoi, Bacillus subtilis, or Enteroccocus faecium, either alone or in combination with Bacillus licheniformis. These microbial strains are typically combined with a solid carrier, such as calcium carbonate, dextrose, or sorbitol.

[0150] Examples of antioxidants that can be combined with algae extracts in cosmetic compositions, the subject of this invention as defined above, include EDTA and its salts, citric acid, tartaric acid, oxalic acid, BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole), BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene), tocopherol derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate, and mixtures of antioxidant compounds such as Dissolvine, sold by AkzoNobel under the INCI name tetrasodium glutamate. TM GL 47S.

[0151] Examples of sunscreens that can be combined with algae extracts in cosmetic compositions that are the subject of this invention, as defined above, include all those that appear in Cosmetic Directive 76 / 768 / EEC, revised, Annex VII.

[0152] Among organic sunscreens that can be combined with algae extracts in cosmetic compositions that are the subject of this invention as defined above, the benzoic acid derivative family, such as para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), particularly monoglycerides of para-aminobenzoic acid, ethyl esters of N,N-propoxy-p-aminobenzoic acid, ethyl esters of N,N-diethoxy-p-aminobenzoic acid, ethyl esters of N,N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid, methyl esters of N,N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid, and butyl esters of N,N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid; the anthranilic acid derivative family, such as homomenthyl-N-acetyl anthranilate; and the salicylic acid derivative family, such as amyl salicylate and homomenthyl salicylate. (salicylate), ethylhexyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, p-isopropanol phenyl salicylate; cinnamic acid derivatives, such as ethylhexyl cinnamate, ethyl 4-isopropylcinnamate, methyl 2,5-diisopropylcinnamate, propyl p-methoxycinnamate, isopropyl p-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, octyl p-methoxycinnamate (2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate), 2-ethoxyethyl p-methoxycinnamate, cyclohexyl p-methoxycinnamate, α-cyano-β-phenylcinnamic acid Ethyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl α-cyano-β-phenylcinnamic acid or mono(2-ethylhexanoyl)glycerol di(p-methoxycinnamic acid ester); benzophenone derivatives, such as 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonate, 4-phenylbenzophenone, 4'-phenylbenzophenone 2-Ethylhexyl 2,5-carboxylic acid, 2-hydroxy-4-(n-octyloxy)benzophenone, 4-hydroxy-3-carboxybenzophenone; 3-(4'-methylbenzylene)-d,1-camphor, 3-benzylene-d,1-camphor, camphor benzalkonium methyl sulfate; urocanic acid, urocanic acid ethyl ester; sulfonic acid derivatives, such as 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts; triazine derivatives, such as hydroxyphenyltriazine, ethylhexyloxyhydroxyphenyl-4-methoxyphenyltriazine, 2,4,6-triphenylamino-(p-carbonyl-2'-) 4,4-((6-(((1,1-dimethylethyl)amino)carbonyl)phenyl)amino)-1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyldiimino)bis-(2-ethylhexyl) ester of benzoic acid, 2-phenyl-5-methylbenzoxazole, 2,2'-hydroxy-5-methylphenylbenzotriazole, 2-(2'-hydroxy-5'-tert-octylphenyl)benzotriazole, 2-(2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl)benzotriazole; dibenzazine;Anisinylmethane, 4-methoxy-4''-tert-butylbenzoylmethane; 5-(3,3-dimethyl-2-norbornyl)-3-pent-2-one; the diphenyl acrylate derivative family, such as 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-acrylate 2-ethylhexyl ester or 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-acrylate ethyl ester; or the polysiloxane family, such as benzyl malonate siloxane.

[0153] Among inorganic sunscreens (also known as “mineral sunscreens”) that can be combined with algal extracts in compositions that are the subject of this invention as defined above, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, yellow, red, or black iron oxide, or chromium oxide may be mentioned. These mineral sunscreens may be micronized or not, may have undergone surface treatment or not, and may optionally be present in the form of aqueous or oil-based predispersants.

[0154] The following examples illustrate the present invention, but do not limit the invention.

[0155] I. Evaluation Methods:

[0156] I.1 Analytical methods for assessing the presence of polar lipids and chlorophyll:

[0157] A HPLC-DAD-CAD (DAD = UV diode array detector, CAD = corona detector) method was developed to analyze the presence of polar lipids and chlorophyll in the evaluated extracts in a single step. This analytical method uses a C18 reversed-phase column and a decreasing polarity gradient obtained as follows:

[0158] Channel A: Isopropanol + 0.1% Formic Acid

[0159] Channel B: Acetonitrile + 0.1% Formic Acid

[0160] Channel C: MQ H2O + 0.1% formic acid

[0161] Channel D: 80 / 20 acetonitrile / MQ H2O

[0162]

[0163] The following methods were used to evaluate the standards for extracts:

[0164] -The presence of polar lipids:

[0165] CAD inspection, retention time is between 20 and 38 minutes.

[0166] The presence of polar lipids is considered significant starting from an intensity of 20 pA.

[0167] -The presence of chlorophyll:

[0168] DAD detection (650 nm) with retention times between 30 and 42 minutes; identification was performed using characteristic UV spectra (λmax = 430 and 660 nm).

[0169] When the intensity of the chromatographic peak of chlorophyll is less than or equal to 0.02 AU (below this threshold, trace amounts of chlorophyll are considered to have no effect on the product color), chlorophyll is considered to be absent.

[0170] I.2 Colorimetric Analysis:

[0171] By using colorimetry based on the parameters "a" of the CIELAB color space... "Analysis of the obtained extract. Parameter "a" "Corresponds to the value on the green (negative) -> red (positive) axis."

[0172] Therefore, the presence of green traces that are related to chlorophyll and visible to the naked eye is expressed as a parameter "a" greater than or equal to -5. ".

[0173] II. Example:

[0174] Example 1: Extraction of the algae *Himanthalia elongata* (Family: Himmanthaliaceae; Order: Fucales; Class: Phaeophyceae) according to the method of the present invention.

[0175] 50 kg of dried and ground Himanthus elongata was contacted with 600 kg of a 96% aqueous ethanol solution. The mixture was brought to 40°C and stirred for 2 hours. Once the biomass separated from the extract, the extract was concentrated to obtain approximately 20% solids, and then 150 kg of 1,3-propanediol was added. The mixture was homogenized, and residual ethanol was further evaporated under vacuum. After complete desolventizing and filtration through a 0.2 µm cellulose filter, a chlorophyll- and triglyceride-free liquid extract was obtained.

[0176] A comparison of the HPLC spectra of the ethanol extract of *Himanthalia elongata* before the addition of 1,3-propanediol and the extract of *H. elongata* obtained by this invention, under 650 nm UV and CAD detection, shows... Figure 1 (Left: Ethanol extract before addition of 1,3-propanediol; Right: Extract obtained according to the present invention).

[0177] like Figure 1As shown, the ethanol extract does indeed contain chlorophyll that has been extracted with ethanol, and the extract according to the present invention no longer shows chlorophyll in the chromatogram at 650 nm.

[0178] Results of colorimetric analysis of the extract diluted in ethanol at 0.4% solids equivalent:

[0179] Ethanol extract before addition of 1,3-propanediol: a = -16.3

[0180] Extract obtained according to the present invention: a = -4.7

[0181] Example 2: Extraction of the algae Alaria esculenta (Family: Alariaceae; Order: Laminariales; Class: Phaeophyceae) using a variant of the method according to the present invention.

[0182] 700 g of dried Alaria esculenta was extracted using supercritical CO2 at 400 bar and 40 °C. The CO2 flow rate used was 10 kg / h for 180 minutes. Figure 2 As can be seen from the HPLC spectrum shown, an extract rich in polar lipids but also rich in chlorophyll was obtained after filtration.

[0183] Under the same conditions, but with 1,3-propanediol added at a flow rate of 4 mL / min as a co-solvent, Figure 3 The HPLC spectrum shown indicates the presence of polar lipids but the absence of chlorophyll.

[0184] Colorimetric analysis results of the supercritical CO2 extract of Alaria esculenta diluted in ethanol at 0.2% solids equivalent:

[0185] Supercritical CO2 extract of Alaria esculenta without the addition of 1,3-propanediol co-solvent: a = -12.0

[0186] Supercritical CO2 extract of Alaria esculenta using 1,3-propanediol as a cosolvent according to the present invention: a = -0.1

[0187] Example 3: Using different polyols on Himanthus elongata according to the present invention

[0188] The algae *Himanthalia elongata* was extracted according to the same procedure as in Example 1, but using different polyols as solvents S2: propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentanediol, and glycerol.

[0189] The HPLC spectrum of the extract according to the present invention obtained from the algae *Himanthalia elongata* shows... Figure 4 In this study, glycerol was too polar to efficiently extract polar lipids, while pentylene glycol was too low in polarity and partially dissolved chlorophyll. Propylene glycol (1,2-propanediol) and butylene glycol (1,3-butanediol) efficiently dissolved polar lipids and rendered chlorophyll insoluble, as indicated by peak intensities of chlorophyll with values ​​of 0.02 AU or lower. Therefore, not every polyol is suitable for use in this invention, and the prior art does not provide information regarding the suitability of polyols for the methods according to the invention.

[0190] Example 4: Extraction of meroditerpenes from the algae Halidrys siliquosa (Family: Sargassaceae; Order: Fucales; Class: Phaeophyceae) according to the present invention.

[0191] 100 g of dried and ground Halidrys siliquosa was contacted with 400 g of 96% ethanol. The mixture was brought to 40°C and stirred for 2 hours. Once the biomass separated from the extract, the extract was concentrated to achieve a solids content of approximately 20%, and then 300 g of 1,3-propanediol was added. The mixture was homogenized and the 96% ethanol was removed (desolventization). After complete desolventization and filtration through a 0.2 µm filter, a chlorophyll-free liquid extract was obtained.

[0192] The HPLC spectrum of the extract obtained from the algae Halidrys siliquosa according to the method of the present invention is shown in... Figure 5 (Left: Ethanol extract before addition of 1,3-propanediol; Right: Extract obtained according to the present invention). For example... Figure 5 As shown, ethanol can extract meroditerpenes, but along with chlorophyll. Upon addition of 1,3-propanediol, the chlorophyll is appropriately removed from the extract.

[0193] Results of colorimetric analysis of the extract diluted in ethanol at 0.4% solids equivalent:

[0194] Ethanol extract before addition of 1,3-propanediol: a = -9

[0195] Extract obtained by the method according to the present invention: a = -3

[0196] Example 5: Preparation of the extract obtained in Example 1

[0197] The ethanol extract before the addition of 1,3-propanediol and the extract obtained according to the present invention according to Example 1 were formulated for comparison.

[0198] To make the extracts comparable, the ethanol extract was diluted in 1,3-propanediol without filtration (containing chlorophyll) so that the two extracts had equal solids content.

[0199] Incorporate 2% of the extract into the following formulation framework.

[0200]

[0201] The ethanol extract (containing chlorophyll) showed a high level of coloration.

[0202] At D-1, for extracts containing chlorophyll, ΔE is approximately 13 compared to the frame, while for extracts decolorized by the method according to the invention, ΔE is approximately 11.

[0203] Green particles are visible in formulations containing ethanol extracts (containing chlorophyll), and these particles do not disappear over time.

[0204] Mathematical Formula 1

[0205]

[0206] (p represents the product, c represents the framework)

[0207] E is in a consistently consistent color space such as L a b A measure of the visual difference between two colors. In L a b Colors at equal distances in space (and therefore having the same ΔE) should be perceived by the human eye as having the same color difference.

[0208] The present invention thus enables the production of chlorophyll-free extracts containing polar lipids by means of a process that is economical and minimizes waste generation.

Claims

1. A method for preparing an algal extract from algal biomass comprising chlorophyll, polar lipids, and possibly triglycerides, said algal extract comprising polar lipids dissolved in 1,3-propanediol, and wherein the lipids are soluble according to parameter a in the CIELAB color space. The method is characterized by comprising the following steps: (The value is greater than or equal to -5.) -Step a) Provide the algal biomass, -Step b) Extracting the polar lipids, chlorophyll, and possibly triglycerides present in the algal biomass by mixing the algal biomass provided in step a) with a first solvent S1 of alcohol type and / or nonpolar type, to obtain a first liquid phase comprising solvent S1, residual biomass undissolved in solvent S1, and the polar lipids, chlorophyll, and possibly triglycerides dissolved in solvent S1. - Step c) Separate the residual biomass undissolved in solvent S1 from the first liquid phase obtained at the end of step b) by filtration to obtain a second liquid phase containing solvent S1, the polar lipids dissolved in solvent S1, chlorophyll, and possibly triglycerides. - Step d) Concentrate the second liquid phase obtained at the end of step c) by at least partially evaporating the first solvent S1 to obtain a concentrated second liquid phase containing the solvent S1, the polar lipids dissolved in the solvent S1, chlorophyll, and possibly any triglycerides present. - Step e) Mix the second liquid phase obtained at the end of step c) or the concentrated second liquid phase obtained at the end of step d) with 1,3-propanediol to obtain a third liquid phase comprising the mixture of solvent S1 and 1,3-propanediol, the polar lipids, chlorophyll, and possibly present triglycerides. - Step f) Remove the first solvent S1 from the third liquid phase obtained in step e) by evaporation to obtain a fourth liquid phase containing 1,3-propanediol, chlorophyll undissolved in 1,3-propanediol, and possibly present triglycerides and the polar lipids dissolved in 1,3-propanediol. - Step g) Separate the chlorophyll and any triglycerides that are not dissolved in 1,3-propanediol from the fourth liquid phase obtained in step f) by filtration to obtain the desired algal extract.

2. A method for preparing an algal extract from algal biomass comprising chlorophyll, polar lipids, and possibly triglycerides, wherein the plant extract comprises polar lipids dissolved in 1,3-propanediol, and its composition is determined according to parameter a in the CIELAB color space. The method is characterized by comprising the following steps: (The value is greater than or equal to -5.) - Step h) Provide the algal biomass, -Step i) Extracting polar lipids, chlorophyll, and possibly triglycerides present in the algal biomass by mixing the algal biomass provided in step h) with an alcohol-type and / or non-polar type first solvent S1 and 1,3-propanediol, to obtain a fifth liquid phase containing solvent S1 and 1,3-propanediol, residual biomass, the polar lipids, chlorophyll, and possibly triglycerides. - Step j) Remove the first solvent S1 present in the fifth liquid phase obtained in step i) by evaporation to obtain a sixth liquid phase containing 1,3-propanediol, the residual biomass, chlorophyll undissolved in 1,3-propanediol, and possibly triglycerides and polar lipids dissolved in 1,3-propanediol. - Step k) Separate the residual biomass, chlorophyll undissolved in 1,3-propanediol, and any triglycerides present from the sixth liquid phase obtained in step j) by filtration to obtain the desired algal extract.

3. The method according to any one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that... The algal biomass provided in step a) or step h) of the method is dry and optionally ground.

4. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that... The first solvent S1 of the alcohol type is an alcohol or an aqueous solution containing an alcohol, wherein the alcohol is selected from ethanol, isopropanol, methanol, or a mixture of two or more of these alcohols.

5. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that... The first solvent S1 of the nonpolar type is selected from hexane, cyclohexane, methyltetrahydrofuran, benzene, supercritical carbon dioxide, or a mixture of two or more of these solvents.

6. The method according to claim 4, characterized in that... The first solvent S1 is a 96% aqueous solution of ethanol.

7. The method according to claim 5, characterized in that... The first solvent S1 is supercritical carbon dioxide.

8. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that... The algal biomass provided in step a) or step h) is biomass of algae selected from the algae *Himanthalia elongata*, *Alariaesculenta*, and *Halidrys siliquosa*.

9. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that... The polar lipids present in the algal biomass belong to the following categories: -Mode Free fatty acids and their hydroxylated and unsaturated derivatives, wherein R1 represents a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic alkyl group containing 5 to 23 carbon atoms and optionally one or more hydroxyl functional groups. - Glycolipids, especially digalactoside diacylglycerols, digalactoside monoacylglycerols, monogalactoside diacylglycerols, monogalactoside monoacylglycerols, thioisorhamnosyl diacylglycerols and / or thioisorhamnosyl monoacylglycerols. - Phospholipids, - Sphingolipids, and - Diterpenoids.

10. An algal extract comprising polar lipids dissolved in 1,3-propanediol, and wherein the lipids are soluble according to parameter a in the CIELAB color space. It is greater than or equal to -5, which is obtained directly by the method according to any one of claims 1 to 9.

11. An algal extract comprising polar lipids dissolved in 1,3-propanediol, and wherein the lipids are soluble according to parameter a in the CIELAB color space. Greater than or equal to -5, which is obtained by the method according to any one of claims 2 to 10.

12. The algal extract according to any one of claims 10 and 11, wherein the polar lipids belong to the following: -Mode Free fatty acids and their hydroxylated and unsaturated derivatives, wherein R1 represents a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic alkyl group containing 5 to 23 carbon atoms and optionally one or more hydroxyl functional groups. - Glycolipids, especially digalactoside diacylglycerols, digalactoside monoacylglycerols, monogalactoside diacylglycerols, monogalactoside monoacylglycerols, thioisorhamnosyl diacylglycerols and / or thioisorhamnosyl monoacylglycerols. - Phospholipids, - Sphingolipids, and - Diterpenoids.

13. Use of the algae extract according to any one of claims 10 to 12 as a cosmetic active agent in a topical cosmetic composition.

14. A cosmetic composition for topical use, comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable ingredient and an effective amount of an algae extract according to any one of claims 10 to 12.

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