Micro-emulsion cosmetic capable of resisting skin aging and preparation method of micro-emulsion cosmetic

Abstract

The invention relates to a micro-emulsion cosmetic capable of resisting skin aging and a preparation method of the micro-emulsion cosmetic. The micro-emulsion cosmetic capable of resisting skin aging is prepared from the following raw materials: a water-phase raw material, an oil-phase raw material and a cosurfactant, the water-phase raw materials comprise a tricholoma matsutake extract, ergothioneine, a cross-linked polymer and water; the oil phase raw materials comprise bakuchiol, a main surfactant and light grease; the main surfactant comprises any one or a combination of at least two of phospholipid, polyglycerol fatty acid ester, a glycerol fatty acid derivative, polyol ether or polyether; the cosurfactant comprises a polyhydric alcohol; the cross-linked polymer comprises an acrylic cross-linked polymer. According to the invention, the tricholoma matsutake extract, bakuchiol and ergothioneine, which have different properties (hydrophilic, oleophylic and unstable), are integrated in the same aqueous solution system and play a synergistic role, so that the formed nano-scale microemulsion is stable and uniform in structure and high in active matter retention rate, and has very good skin feeling in use.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0001] The present application belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a microemulsion cosmetic for resisting skin aging and a preparation method thereof. BACKGROUND

[0002] With the upgrading of consumers' demand for skin care, cosmetics with multiple functions have become the mainstream development direction in the market. Repair, anti-aging and antioxidant are important functions that consumers pursue. Cosmetics with repair, anti-aging and antioxidant functions can effectively repair damaged stratum corneum, improve fine lines on the skin, resist oxidative damage, achieve comprehensive skin care effects, and meet the needs of consumers for multi-effect skin care.

[0003] CN116421482A discloses a composition containing tricholoma matsutake extract with anti-aging effect, which comprises tricholoma matsutake extract, ergothioneine and bakuchiol. The composition has a good repair effect on UV-induced skin photoaging damage, can avoid damage states such as dry skin, erythema, roughness, wrinkles and epidermal thickening, significantly reduce the levels of oxidative stress and inflammatory factors, avoid causing skin photo damage, effectively improve skin oxidation, repair skin barrier function and protect the skin.

[0004] However, from the solubility, the above-mentioned tricholoma matsutake extract has strong hydrophilicity, is easy to disperse in water phase but is difficult to be compatible with oil phase; bakuchiol is a fat-soluble ingredient and has typical lipophilicity. From the stability, the structure of the above-mentioned ergothioneine is easy to be affected by temperature, oxygen and the like, and is easy to be oxidatively degraded in the preparation and storage process of the cosmetic, resulting in poor stability and further losing antioxidant activity. It can be seen that although the tricholoma matsutake extract, ergothioneine and bakuchiol have significant synergistic effect in antioxidant and the like, it still faces great difficulty in how to productize the composition.

[0005] Therefore, how to integrate the functional components with differences in hydrophilicity, lipophilicity and instability into the same aqueous system, solve the problems of poor compatibility and low stability, and realize the stable existence and synergistic effect of the three in the same system have become one of the technical problems to be solved at present. SUMMARY

[0006] In view of the deficiencies of the prior art, the purpose of the present application is to provide a microemulsion cosmetic for resisting skin aging and a preparation method thereof.

[0007] To achieve the purpose of the present application, the following technical solutions are adopted:

[0008] In a first aspect, the present application provides a microemulsion cosmetic for resisting skin aging, and the preparation raw materials of the microemulsion cosmetic comprise water phase raw materials, oil phase raw materials and co-surfactants.

[0009] The water phase raw material comprises: tricholoma matsutake extract, ergothioneine, cross-linked polymer and water.

[0010] The oil phase raw material comprises: bakuchiol, main surfactant and light oil.

[0011] The main surfactant comprises any one or a combination of at least two of phospholipid, polyglycerol fatty acid ester, glycerol fatty acid derivative, polyol ether or polyether.

[0012] The co-surfactant comprises polyol.

[0013] The cross-linked polymer comprises acrylic cross-linked polymer.

[0014] Previous studies have shown that the composition obtained by compounding tricholoma matsutake extract, bakuchiol and ergothioneine has obvious effect, which is better than the simple superposition of each component alone or two components, and the three-component compounding has good anti-aging effect, can reduce the level of oxidative stress and inflammatory factors, reduce skin inflammation, avoid causing skin photodamage, effectively improve skin oxidation, repair skin barrier function and protect skin.

[0015] However, the composition obtained by combining tricholoma matsutake extract, bakuchiol and ergothioneine can only be tested for efficacy immediately after combination, and a large amount of research is still needed to integrate the hydrophilic tricholoma matsutake extract, the lipophilic bakuchiol and the unstable ergothioneine into the same water system, improve the long-term stability of the three, and better play the repair, anti-aging and antioxidant effects.

[0016] Further, the present application adds a co-surfactant to assist the main surfactant to play an emulsifying role, reduce the emulsion particle size, improve the emulsion uniformity and stability, and then integrate the oil-soluble and water-soluble active substances into the same system, and improve the stability of the active ingredients.

[0017] Meanwhile, the microemulsion cosmetic disclosed by the present application forms a three-dimensional network structure in the system by adding a cross-linked polymer, reduces the aggregation of the microemulsion, increases the interfacial stability, and can also increase the stability of unstable components such as ergothioneine.

[0018] The microemulsion cosmetic disclosed by the present application creatively integrates the three active substances with different properties (hydrophilic, lipophilic and unstable) of tricholoma matsutake extract, bakuchiol and ergothioneine in the same water system stably and efficiently, and plays a synergistic role, and the formed nanoscale microemulsion structure is stable and uniform, the active substance retention rate is high, and the use skin feel is good.

[0019] Preferably, the primary surfactant comprises any one or a combination of at least two of hydrogenated lecithin, polyglyceryl laurate, glyceryl stearate citrate, isosorbide dimethyl ether or polypropylene glycol decyltetradecyl ether, preferably a combination of hydrogenated lecithin, glyceryl stearate citrate and polypropylene glycol decyltetradecyl ether.

[0020] Preferably, the mass ratio of the hydrogenated lecithin, glyceryl stearate citrate and polypropylene glycol decyltetradecyl ether is (1-5):(1-5):(1-5).

[0021] Specific point values in 1-5 can be selected as 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, etc.

[0022] Preferably, the polypropylene glycol in the polypropylene glycol decyltetradecyl ether has a polymerization degree of 4-8 (for example, it can be 4, 5, 6, 7 or 8), and the addition mole number of ethylene oxide is 20-40 (for example, it can be 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, etc.).

[0023] Preferably, the mass percentage content of the primary surfactant in the microemulsion cosmetic is 0.1-5%, for example, it can be 0.1%, 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, etc.

[0024] The present application creatively finds that the combination of hydrogenated lecithin, glyceryl stearate citrate and polypropylene glycol decyltetradecyl ether has a significant synergistic effect on the improvement of microemulsion stability and the improvement of active substance retention rate, and can reduce the size of the microemulsion, improve the transdermal absorption effect and maintain excellent use skin feel.

[0025] Preferably, the co-surfactant comprises any one or a combination of at least two of glycerol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol or hexylene glycol, preferably a combination of glycerol, pentylene glycol and hexylene glycol.

[0026] The present application creatively finds that the combination of glycerol, pentylene glycol and hexylene glycol can better assist the primary surfactant to play an emulsifying role, reduce the emulsion particle size, improve the emulsion uniformity and stability, and then integrate oil-soluble and water-soluble active substances into the same system to improve the stability of the functional ingredients.

[0027] Preferably, the mass ratio of the glycerol, pentylene glycol and hexylene glycol is (1-5):(1-5):(1-5).

[0028] Specific point values in 1-5 can be selected as 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, etc.

[0029] Preferably, the mass percentage of the co-surfactant in the microemulsion cosmetic is 1-5%, such as 1%, 1.5%, 2%, 2.5%, 3%, 3.5%, 4%, 4.5%, 5%, etc.

[0030] Preferably, the cross-linked polymer includes any one or a combination of at least two of polyacrylate cross-linked polymer, acryloyldimethyltaurine ammonium / VP copolymer, or acrylate / alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer, preferably a combination of polyacrylate cross-linked polymer, acryloyldimethyltaurine ammonium / VP copolymer, and acrylate / alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer.

[0031] The present application creatively finds that the polyacrylate cross-linked polymer, acryloyldimethyltaurine ammonium / VP copolymer, and acrylate / alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer can form a stable three-dimensional network structure in the system, the three cross-linked copolymers cooperate with each other and synergistically, which can more greatly reduce the aggregation of the microemulsion, increase the interfacial stability, and at the same time increase the stability of unstable ingredients such as ergothioneine.

[0032] Preferably, the mass ratio of the polyacrylate cross-linked polymer, acryloyldimethyltaurine ammonium / VP copolymer, and acrylate / alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer is (1-5):(1-5):(1-5).

[0033] Specific point values in 1-5 can be selected as 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, etc.

[0034] Preferably, the polyacrylate cross-linked polymer is polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6.

[0035] Preferably, the acrylate / alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer is acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer.

[0036] Preferably, the mass percentage of the cross-linked polymer in the microemulsion cosmetic is 0.1-0.8%, such as 0.1%, 0.3%, 0.5%, 0.7%, 0.8%, etc.

[0037] Preferably, the water phase raw material further includes cyclodextrin.

[0038] Cyclodextrin has a hollow structure with a hydrophilic outer side and a hydrophobic inner cavity. By adding cyclodextrin to the water phase raw material, the present application can reduce the oil-water interfacial tension by inclusion of oil phase molecules, improve the dispersibility of the oil phase, avoid the aggregation of the microemulsion, and at the same time, further improve the stability of active substances such as tricholoma matsutake extract and ergothioneine in the water phase.

[0039] Preferably, the mass percentage content of cyclodextrin in the microemulsion cosmetic is 0.01-0.3%, for example, it can be 0.01%, 0.1%, 0.15%, 0.2%, 0.25%, 0.3%, etc.

[0040] Preferably, the aqueous phase raw material further comprises any one or a combination of at least two of a chelating agent and / or a humectant.

[0041] Preferably, the chelating agent comprises disodium EDTA.

[0042] Preferably, the humectant comprises glycerol and / or butylene glycol.

[0043] Preferably, the aqueous phase raw material further comprises a component with anti-aging and / or soothing efficacy.

[0044] The component with anti-aging efficacy comprises acetyl hexapeptide-8 and / or acetyl hexapeptide-2.

[0045] The component with soothing efficacy comprises centella asiatica extract and / or asiaticoside.

[0046] Preferably, the oil phase raw material further comprises a silicone oil.

[0047] Preferably, the silicone oil comprises dimethicone.

[0048] Preferably, the mass ratio of the tricholoma matsutake extract, ergothioneine and bakuchiol is (1-10):(0.01-0.5):(0.1-2).

[0049] Specific point values in 1-10 can be selected as 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 10, etc., specific point values in 0.01-0.5 can be selected as 0.01, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, etc., and specific point values in 0.1-2 can be selected as 0.1, 0.5, 1, 1.5, 2, etc.

[0050] Preferably, the present application relates to the tricholoma matsutake extract prepared by a method comprising the following steps:

[0051] Mixing tricholoma matsutake with an aqueous solution of ethanol for extraction, filtering and concentrating the extract to obtain the tricholoma matsutake extract.

[0052] Preferably, the solid-liquid ratio of the tricholoma matsutake and the aqueous solution of ethanol is 1:10-1:20 g / mL, for example, it can be 1:10 g / mL, 1:13 g / mL, 1:15 g / mL, 1:17 g / mL, 1:20 g / mL, etc.

[0053] Preferably, the volume percentage of ethanol in the aqueous solution of ethanol is 75-85%, for example, it can be 75%, 77%, 79%, 81%, 83%, 85%, etc.

[0054] Preferably, the temperature of the extraction is 70-80℃, the number of extractions is 2-3 times, and the time of each extraction is 1-3h.

[0055] Among them, the specific point value in 70-80℃ can be selected as 70℃, 72℃, 74℃, 76℃, 78℃, 80℃, etc., 2-3 times can be 2 times or 3 times, and the specific point value in 1-3h can be selected as 1h, 1.5h, 2h, 2.5h, 3h, etc.

[0056] Preferably, the preparation raw materials of the microemulsion cosmetic include water phase raw materials 70-90%, oil phase raw materials 6-20%, and co-surfactants 1-5% in mass percentage.

[0057] Among them, the specific point value in 70-85% can be selected as 70%, 75%, 80%, 85%, 90%, etc., the specific point value in 6-20% can be selected as 6%, 10%, 15%, 20%, etc., and the specific point value in 1-5% can be selected as 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, etc.

[0058] In the second aspect, the present application provides a preparation method of the anti-skin aging microemulsion cosmetic according to the first aspect, which comprises the following steps:

[0059] (1) mixing and stirring the cross-linked polymer, the optional chelating agent, the optional humectant, the optional cyclodextrin, and water to obtain a water phase; mixing and stirring the bakuchiol, the main surfactant, the light oil, and the optional silicone oil to obtain an oil phase;

[0060] (2) adding the oil phase into the water phase, and then mixing and stirring with the co-surfactant to obtain a primary microemulsion;

[0061] (3) mixing the primary oil-in-water microemulsion with the truffle extract and the ergothioneine to obtain the microemulsion cosmetic.

[0062] Preferably, the temperature of the mixing and stirring before obtaining the water phase in step (1) is 35-40℃ (for example, it can be 35℃, 36℃, 37℃, 38℃, 39℃, 40℃, etc.).

[0063] Preferably, the temperature of the mixing and stirring before obtaining the oil phase in step (1) is 35-60℃ (for example, it can be 35℃, 40℃, 45℃, 50℃, 55℃, 60℃, etc.).

[0064] Preferably, the rotation speed of the homogenization in step (2) is 2500-3000 rpm (for example, it can be 2500 rpm, 2600 rpm, 2700 rpm, 2800 rpm, 2900 rpm, 3000 rpm, etc.), and the homogenization time is 5-10 min (for example, it can be 5 min, 6 min, 7 min, 8 min, 9 min, 10 min, etc.).

[0065] Compared with the prior art, the present application has the following beneficial effects:

[0066] The present application stably and efficiently integrates the three active substances with different properties (hydrophilic, lipophilic, and unstable) of pine mushroom extract, psoralen, and ergothioneine in the same aqueous system by the cooperation of the main surfactant, the co-surfactant, and the cross-linked polymer, and the synergistic effect is achieved, and the nano-sized microemulsion has stable structure, high active substance retention rate, and good use skin feel.

[0067] Further, the hydrogenated lecithin, glyceryl stearate citrate, and polypropylene glycol ceteth-14 alcohol ether are used together as the main surfactant, and have a significant synergistic effect on the improvement of the stability of the microemulsion and the improvement of the active substance retention rate, and can reduce the size of the microemulsion, improve the transdermal absorption effect, and maintain excellent use skin feel.

[0068] Further, the glycerol, pentylene glycol, and hexylene glycol are used together as the co-surfactant, which can better assist the main surfactant to play an emulsifying role, reduce the emulsion particle size, improve the emulsion uniformity and stability, and then integrate the oil-soluble and water-soluble active substances into the same system to improve the stability of the active ingredients.

[0069] Further, the polyacrylate cross-linked polymer, acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate / VP copolymer, and acrylate / alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer can form a stable three-dimensional network structure in the system, and the three cross-linked copolymers cooperate with each other to have a synergistic effect, which can reduce the aggregation of the microemulsion to a greater extent, increase the interfacial stability, and at the same time increase the stability of unstable ingredients such as ergothioneine.

[0070] Further, in the preparation process of the microemulsion cosmetic, the addition of cyclodextrin in the water phase can further improve the stability of the microemulsion and improve the retention rate of unstable active substances. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0071] In order to further illustrate the technical means adopted by the present application and its effects, the technical solutions of the present application will be further described below in combination with the preferred embodiments of the present application, but the present application is not limited in the scope of the embodiments.

[0072] The sources of the components / ingredients in the following specific embodiments are shown in Table 1.

[0073] Table 1

[0074]

[0075] The preparation method of the Tricholoma matsutake extract involved in the following specific embodiments is as follows:

[0076] Dry Tricholoma matsutake was added to 80% (v / v) ethanol aqueous solution at a solid-liquid ratio of 1:10 g / mL, and extracted for 3 h at 80°C in a water bath. The extraction was repeated twice. After filtration, concentration, and drying, the Tricholoma matsutake extract was obtained.

[0077] Example 1

[0078] This example provides a microemulsion cosmetic, the components of which are shown in Table 2.

[0079] Table 2

[0080]

[0081] The preparation method is as follows:

[0082] (1) Psoralen, silicone oil, and light oil were mixed under stirring at 37°C. The primary surfactant was added, and stirring was continued until complete dissolution and clarification. The oil phase was obtained.

[0083] Water (a reserved portion was used for subsequent dissolution of the active substances, Tricholoma matsutake extract and ergothioneine), humectants, and chelating agents were mixed and heated to 78°C under stirring until the chelating agent was dissolved. Then, the mixture was cooled to 42°C. The crosslinked polymer and cyclodextrin were slowly dispersed and added under high-speed shearing (2500 rpm), and homogenization was continued until a uniform pre-gel liquid was formed. The water phase was obtained.

[0084] (2) The oil phase was slowly added to the water phase under moderate stirring (1000 rpm). The co-surfactant was added, and then the homogenization speed was increased (3000 rpm) for 7 min. The system gradually changed from milky white to transparent or translucent, forming a primary microemulsion.

[0085] (3) The Tricholoma matsutake extract and ergothioneine were pre-mixed with a small amount of remaining water, and added to the primary microemulsion under stirring at 300 rpm until uniform. The pH was adjusted to 5.5, the temperature was reduced to 25°C, defoaming was performed, and the microemulsion cosmetic was obtained.

[0086] Example 2

[0087] This example provides a microemulsion cosmetic, the components of which are shown in Table 3.

[0088] Table 3

[0089]

[0090] The preparation method is as follows:

[0091] (1) Psoralen, silicone oil and light oil are mixed under stirring at 50°C, the main surfactant is added, and stirring is continued until complete dissolution and clarification, to obtain an oil phase;

[0092] Water (a reserved portion is used for subsequent dissolution of active substances), humectants, and chelating agents are mixed, heated to 75°C under stirring to dissolve the chelating agent, and then cooled to 40°C. The crosslinking polymer and cyclodextrin are slowly dispersed and added under high-speed shearing (2000 rpm), and homogenization is continued until a uniform pre-gel liquid is formed, to obtain an aqueous phase;

[0093] (2) The oil phase is slowly added to the aqueous phase under moderate stirring (800 rpm). The co-surfactant is added, and then the homogenization speed is increased (2500 rpm) for 5 min, and the system gradually changes from milky white to transparent or translucent, to form a primary microemulsion.

[0094] (3) The truffle extract and ergothioneine are pre-mixed with a small amount of remaining water, and added to the primary microemulsion under stirring at 400 rpm, and stirring is continued until uniform, the pH is adjusted to 5, the temperature is reduced to 25°C, defoaming is performed, and the product is discharged, to obtain a microemulsion cosmetic.

[0095] Example 3

[0096] This example provides a microemulsion cosmetic, the components of which are shown in Table 4.

[0097] Table 4

[0098]

[0099] The preparation method is as follows:

[0100] (1) Psoralen, silicone oil and light oil are mixed under stirring at 60°C, the main surfactant is added, and stirring is continued until complete dissolution and clarification, to obtain an oil phase;

[0101] Water (a reserved portion is used for subsequent dissolution of active substances), humectants, and chelating agents are mixed, heated to 80°C under stirring to dissolve the chelating agent, and then cooled to 45°C. The crosslinking polymer and cyclodextrin are slowly dispersed and added under high-speed shearing (3000 rpm), and homogenization is continued until a uniform pre-gel liquid is formed, to obtain an aqueous phase;

[0102] (2) The oil phase is slowly added to the aqueous phase under moderate stirring (1200 rpm). The co-surfactant is added, and then the homogenization speed is increased (2700 rpm) for 10 min, and the system gradually changes from milky white to transparent or translucent, to form a primary microemulsion.

[0103] (3) Mix the tricholoma matsutake extract and ergothioneine with the remaining small amount of water, and add to the primary microemulsion at a stirring speed of 500 rpm, stir until uniform, adjust the pH to 6, cool to 25°C, defoam, discharge, and obtain the microemulsion cosmetic.

[0104] Example 4

[0105] This example provides a microemulsion cosmetic, which differs from Example 1 only in that the total mass of the crosslinked polymer is kept unchanged, and the crosslinked polymer is adjusted to be polyacrylate crosspolymer-6 and acryloyldimethyltaurine ammonium / VP copolymer at a mass ratio of 0.5:0.1, and the rest of the formulation and preparation method are consistent with Example 1.

[0106] Example 5

[0107] This example provides a microemulsion cosmetic, which differs from Example 1 only in that the total mass of the crosslinked polymer is kept unchanged, and the crosslinked polymer is adjusted to be polyacrylate crosspolymer-6 and acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer at a mass ratio of 0.5:0.1, and the rest of the formulation and preparation method are consistent with Example 1.

[0108] Example 6

[0109] This example provides a microemulsion cosmetic, which differs from Example 1 only in that the total mass of the crosslinked polymer is kept unchanged, and the crosslinked polymer is adjusted to be acryloyldimethyltaurine ammonium / VP copolymer and acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer at a mass ratio of 0.1:0.1, and the rest of the formulation and preparation method are consistent with Example 1.

[0110] Example 7

[0111] This example provides a microemulsion cosmetic, which differs from Example 1 only in that no cyclodextrin is added to the water phase, and the reduced mass fraction is supplemented by water, and the rest of the formulation and preparation method are consistent with Example 1.

[0112] Example 8

[0113] This example provides a microemulsion cosmetic, which differs from Example 1 only in that the total mass of the main surfactant is kept unchanged, and the main surfactant is adjusted to be hydrogenated lecithin and glyceryl stearate citrate at a mass ratio of 0.5:1, and the rest of the formulation and preparation method are consistent with Example 1.

[0114] Example 9

[0115] The present example provides a microemulsion cosmetic product, which is different from Example 1 only in that the main surfactant is adjusted to be hydrogenated lecithin and PPG-6-decyl myristyl polyether-30 in a mass ratio of 0.5:0.5 while keeping the total mass of the main surfactant unchanged, and the rest of the formulation and the preparation method are consistent with Example 1.

[0116] Example 10

[0117] The present example provides a microemulsion cosmetic product, which is different from Example 1 only in that the main surfactant is adjusted to be glyceryl stearate citrate and PPG-6-decyl myristyl polyether-30 in a mass ratio of 1:0.5 while keeping the total mass of the main surfactant unchanged, and the rest of the formulation and the preparation method are consistent with Example 1.

[0118] Example 11

[0119] The present example provides a microemulsion cosmetic product, which is different from Example 1 only in that the co-surfactant is adjusted to be glycerol and pentylene glycol in a mass ratio of 0.5:1 while keeping the total mass of the co-surfactant unchanged, and the rest of the formulation and the preparation method are consistent with Example 1.

[0120] Example 12

[0121] The present example provides a microemulsion cosmetic product, which is different from Example 1 only in that the co-surfactant is adjusted to be glycerol and hexylene glycol in a mass ratio of 0.5:1 while keeping the total mass of the co-surfactant unchanged, and the rest of the formulation and the preparation method are consistent with Example 1.

[0122] Example 13

[0123] The present example provides a microemulsion cosmetic product, which is different from Example 1 only in that the co-surfactant is adjusted to be pentylene glycol and hexylene glycol in a mass ratio of 1:1 while keeping the total mass of the co-surfactant unchanged, and the rest of the formulation and the preparation method are consistent with Example 1.

[0124] Comparative Example 1

[0125] The present comparative example provides a microemulsion cosmetic product, which is different from Example 1 only in that the cross-linked polymer in the water phase is removed, and the reduced mass fraction is supplemented by water, and the rest of the formulation and the preparation method are consistent with Example 1.

[0126] Comparative Example 2

[0127] The present comparative example provides a microemulsion cosmetic product, which is different from Example 1 only in that the co-surfactant is removed, and the reduced mass fraction is supplemented by water, and the rest of the formulation and the preparation method are consistent with Example 1.

[0128] Test Example 1

[0129] Particle size distribution test:

[0130] The microemulsion cosmetic prepared in each example and the comparative example was detected by dynamic light scattering method, and the uniformity and stability of the formed emulsion were evaluated.

[0131] The test results are shown in Table 5.

[0132] Table 5

[0133]

[0134] Test Example 2

[0135] Stability test:

[0136] (1) Physical stability: The microemulsion cosmetic prepared in each example and the comparative example was observed for layering and precipitation at 3000 rpm for 30 min;

[0137] (2) Cyclic thermal stability: The microemulsion cosmetic prepared in each example and the comparative example was placed under conditions of (-18±2)℃ and (45±2)℃, and alternately placed for 24 h. After 3 cycles, the appearance and viscosity of each sample were observed for changes and precipitation;

[0138] (3) Long-term stability: The microemulsion cosmetic prepared in each example and the comparative example was placed in a 45℃ constant temperature oven for 1 month. Layering and color change were observed compared with the sample at 0 days.

[0139] The stability test results are shown in Table 6.

[0140] Table 6

[0141]

[0142] Test Example 3

[0143] Active substance retention rate test:

[0144] After the microemulsion cosmetic prepared in each example and the comparative example was subjected to the long-term stability test (accelerated test) of Test Example 2, the relative contents of psoralen and ergothioneine before and after the test were tested by HPLC method, and the retention rates of each active substance (psoralen and ergothioneine) were calculated.

[0145] Retention rate = content of active substance after test / content of active substance before test x 100%.

[0146] The test results are shown in Table 7.

[0147] Table 7

[0148]

[0149] Test Example 4

[0150] Skin feel evaluation:

[0151] Seventy-five subjects were selected and divided into 15 groups, with 5 persons in each group. Each microemulsion cosmetic obtained from each example and comparative example was used by the subjects, and the following indexes of each microemulsion cosmetic were evaluated, respectively. The evaluation was performed by using a 5-point scale, and the score could be any integer or decimal number from 1 to 5.

[0152] ①Spreading property (1 point represents extremely great resistance to spreading, and 5 points represent extremely easy to spread);

[0153] ②Absorption speed (1 point represents very difficult to absorb, and 5 points represent extremely easy to absorb);

[0154] ③Freshness (1 point represents extremely strong sticky feeling on the skin, and 5 points represent extremely fresh).

[0155] The score results of each index are shown in Table 8.

[0156] Table 8

[0157]

[0158] From the data comparison of Tables 5-8, it can be seen that the microemulsion cosmetic according to the present application is a nano-sized emulsion with uniform particle size and good stability, and is not prone to stratification and precipitation. The addition of surfactants, co-surfactants and cross-linked polymers improves the retention rate of active substances (Bakuchiol and Ergothioneine), and the freshness of the cosmetic is maintained, and the absorption is fast and easy to spread.

[0159] From the data comparison of Example 1 and Examples 4-6 and Comparative Example 1, it can be seen that in the preparation process of the microemulsion cosmetic, the addition of cross-linked polymers can significantly improve the stability of the microemulsion, especially for unstable Ergothioneine, which can improve its retention rate. In addition, the combination of polyacrylate cross-linked polymer, acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate / VP copolymer and acrylic acid (ester) / alkyl alcohols acrylate cross-linked polymer has a significant synergistic effect in improving the stability of the emulsion, and the addition of the three components can further improve the retention rate of active substances.

[0160] From the data comparison of Example 1 and Example 7, it can be seen that in the preparation process of the microemulsion cosmetic, the addition of cyclodextrin in the aqueous phase can further improve the stability of the microemulsion and improve the retention rate of unstable active ingredients.

[0161] From the comparison of the data of Example 1 and Examples 8-10, it can be seen that hydrogenated lecithin, glycerol stearate citrate and polypropylene glycol decyl tetradecyl polyether have significant synergistic effect in improving the stability of microemulsion, and can further reduce the particle size of microemulsion and improve the uniformity of microemulsion.

[0162] From the comparison of the data of Example 1 and Examples 11-13 and Comparative Example 2, it can be seen that the addition of co-surfactants can further improve the stability and uniformity of microemulsion, and thus improve the retention rate of active substances; in addition, glycerol, pentanediol and hexanediol have significant synergistic effect in improving the stability of microemulsion.

[0163] The applicant declares that the technical solutions of the present application are illustrated by the above examples, but the present application is not limited to the above examples, that is, it does not mean that the present application must rely on the above examples to be implemented. It should be understood by those skilled in the art that any improvement of the present application, equivalent replacement of each raw material of the product of the present application, addition of auxiliary ingredients, selection of specific modes, etc. fall within the protection scope and disclosure scope of the present application.

[0164] The preferred embodiments of the present application are described in detail above, but the present application is not limited to the specific details in the above embodiments, and within the technical concept scope of the present application, various simple modifications can be made to the technical solutions of the present application, and these simple modifications all belong to the protection scope of the present application.

[0165] In addition, it should be noted that each specific technical feature described in the above specific embodiments can be combined in any appropriate manner without contradiction, and in order to avoid unnecessary repetition, the present application will not further describe various possible combination manners.

Claims

1. A microemulsion cosmetic for anti-skin aging, characterized in that, The raw materials for preparing the microemulsion cosmetics include aqueous phase raw materials, oil phase raw materials, and co-surfactants; The aqueous phase raw materials include: matsutake mushroom extract, ergothioneine, cross-linked polymer and water; The oil phase raw materials include: bakuchiol, main surfactant and light oils; The main surfactant includes any one or a combination of at least two of the following: phospholipids, polyglycerol fatty acid esters, glycerol fatty acid derivatives, polyol ethers, or polyethers. The co-surfactant includes polyols; The crosslinked polymer includes acrylic crosslinked polymers.

2. The microemulsion cosmetic according to claim 1, characterized in that, The main surfactant includes any one or a combination of at least two of hydrogenated lecithin, polyglycerol laurate, glycerol stearate citrate, isosorbide dimethyl ether or polypropylene glycol decyltetradecyl alcohol polyether, preferably a combination of hydrogenated lecithin, glycerol stearate citrate and polypropylene glycol decyltetradecyl alcohol polyether. Preferably, the mass ratio of hydrogenated lecithin, glyceryl stearate citrate and polypropylene glycol decyltetradecyl alcohol polyether is (1-5):(1-5):(1-5); Preferably, the main surfactant in the microemulsion cosmetic has a mass percentage content of 0.1-5%.

3. The microemulsion cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, The co-surfactant includes any one or a combination of at least two of glycerol, butylene glycol, pentanediol or hexanediol, preferably a combination of glycerol, pentanediol and hexanediol; Preferably, the mass ratio of glycerol, pentanediol and hexanediol is (1-5):(1-5):(1-5); Preferably, the mass percentage of the co-surfactant in the microemulsion cosmetic is 1-5%.

4. The microemulsion cosmetic according to any one of claims 1-3, characterized in that, The crosslinking polymer includes any one or a combination of at least two of the following: polyacrylate crosslinking polymer, ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / VP copolymer, or acrylate / alkanol acrylate crosslinking polymer; preferably, a combination of polyacrylate crosslinking polymer, ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / VP copolymer, and acrylate / alkanol acrylate crosslinking polymer. Preferably, the mass ratio of the polyacrylate crosspolymer, ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / VP copolymer, and acrylate / alkanol acrylate crosspolymer is (1-5):(1-5):(1-5); Preferably, the cross-linked polymer in the microemulsion cosmetic has a mass percentage content of 0.1-0.8%.

5. The microemulsion cosmetic according to any one of claims 1-4, characterized in that, The aqueous phase raw material also includes cyclodextrin; Preferably, the mass percentage of cyclodextrin in the microemulsion cosmetic is 0.01-0.3%.

6. The microemulsion cosmetic according to any one of claims 1-5, characterized in that, The aqueous phase raw material also includes any one or a combination of at least two of chelating agents and / or humectants; Preferably, the oil phase raw material further includes silicone oil.

7. The microemulsion cosmetic according to any one of claims 1-6, characterized in that, The mass ratio of the matsutake extract, ergothioneine, and psoralen is (1-10):(0.01-0.5):(0.1-2).

8. The microemulsion cosmetic according to claims 1-7, characterized in that, The raw materials for preparing the microemulsion cosmetic, by weight percentage, include 70-90% aqueous phase raw materials, 6-20% oil phase raw materials, and 1-5% co-surfactant.

9. A method for preparing an anti-skin aging microemulsion cosmetic as described in any one of claims 1-8, characterized in that, The preparation method includes the following steps: (1) The cross-linked polymer, optional chelating agent, optional humectant, optional cyclodextrin and water are mixed, stirred and homogenized to obtain an aqueous phase; the bakuchiol, main surfactant, light oil and optional silicone oil are mixed and stirred to obtain an oil phase; (2) Add the oil phase to the aqueous phase, then mix with the co-surfactant, homogenize, and obtain a primary microemulsion; (3) The primary water-in-oil microemulsion was mixed with matsutake mushroom extract and ergothioneine to obtain a microemulsion cosmetic.

10. The preparation method according to claim 9, characterized in that, The mixing temperature before obtaining the aqueous phase in step (1) is 35-40℃; Preferably, the mixing and stirring temperature before obtaining the oil phase in step (1) is 35-40°C; Preferably, the homogenization speed in step (2) is 2500-3000 rpm, and the homogenization time is 5-10 min.

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