Biphasic composition with stable interface
By combining squalane, dioctyl ether, and alkanes with 15 to 19 carbon atoms with an aqueous phase, a surfactant- and siloxane-free biphase composition is formed, solving the layering problem and insufficient sensory properties of biphase compositions, achieving a lightweight texture and stable interface, and meeting environmentally friendly care needs.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202480049281.1
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-06-29
- Filing Date
- 2024-06-28
- Publication Date
- 2026-02-24
AI Technical Summary
Existing biphasic compositions rapidly separate after use, resulting in unpleasant visual effects. Furthermore, conventional compositions have greasy and unstable sensory properties, making it difficult to meet the demands of environmentally friendly cosmetics.
Squalane, dioctyl ether, and straight-chain or branched alkanes with 15 to 19 carbon atoms are combined with an aqueous phase to form a lightweight, non-greasy biphase composition, avoiding the use of surfactants and siloxanes, with an optimized ratio of 70:30 to 98:2 for the aqueous and oil phases.
It achieves a lightweight, non-greasy sensory quality, excellent layering quality, and a clear, stable interface after stirring, while providing effective skincare results and meeting environmentally friendly cosmetic standards.
Smart Images
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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] This invention relates to a biphase composition consisting of a separate aqueous phase and an oil phase, the oil phase comprising a specific oil. The invention also relates to the use of such a composition and methods of care using such a composition. Background Technology
[0002] Compositions consisting of two separate phases, particularly an aqueous and an oil phase, which are separate and do not emulsify each other when at rest, are often referred to as "biphase compositions." They differ from emulsions in that, when at rest, the two phases are separate, rather than emulsified. The use of these biphase compositions requires pre-stirring to form an emulsion, which needs to have sufficient quality and stability to allow for uniform application of both phases to the skin or the keratin material applied to it. When at rest, the phases must rapidly separate from each other and return to their initial state; this phenomenon is often referred to by the terms "phase separation" or "stratification."
[0003] Relatively rapid phase separation after use is one of the desired qualities of a two-phase composition. In fact, achieving rapid phase separation is desirable for various reasons, especially since poor phase separation is considered unsightly by users and can lead to the product becoming a "three-phase" product over time.
[0004] In addition, commercial biphasic compositions are specifically designed for nursing care.
[0005] However, biphasic compositions typically have oily sensory properties and relatively unstable interfaces (turbidity, spiral formation, etc.) after stirring.
[0006] In addition, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetics—that is, cosmetics designed and developed with environmental issues in mind—is becoming a major focus in helping to address global challenges.
[0007] Therefore, it is crucial to develop more sustainable compositions and / or preparation methods and / or ingredients to address these environmental challenges.
[0008] Therefore, there remains a need for novel biphasic compositions consisting of two separate, immiscible phases, which simultaneously possess a light texture, non-greasy sensory properties, and good layering quality, while still achieving effective care. There is also a need for biphasic compositions that exhibit a clear and stable interface after stirring (i.e., no turbidity or spiral formation).
[0009] In addition, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, particularly by promoting the use of renewable and / or raw materials with a good wilderness quality index and / or natural and, more particularly, plant-based sources, while reducing the use of petrochemical-derived compounds. Summary of the Invention
[0010] The inventors have surprisingly discovered that a ternary combination of squalane, dioctyl ether, and a straight-chain or branched alkane having 15 to 19 carbon atoms, combined with an aqueous phase in a specific ratio, enables the production of biphasic compositions that meet these requirements. The compositions according to the invention particularly possess a light texture, non-greasy sensory properties, good layering quality, a clear and stable interface after stirring, and provide effective care.
[0011] More specifically, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably a care composition, comprising a separate aqueous phase and an oil phase, wherein the oil phase comprises a mixture of squalane, dioctyl ether, and straight-chain or branched alkanes having 15 to 19 carbon atoms, said composition being substantially free of surfactants and siloxanes.
[0012] The composition according to the present invention is a biphasic composition.
[0013] The term "biphase composition" refers to a composition consisting of two separate phases, one aqueous phase and one oil phase, which needs to be pre-stirred to form an emulsion before application.
[0014] Preferably, the biphase composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase and an oil phase in a weight ratio of 70:30 to 98:2, preferably 75:25 to 95:5, and more preferably about 90:10.
[0015] These ratios enable the production of biphasic compositions with a particularly pleasing visual appearance.
[0016] All compositions according to the present invention are cosmetic compositions. “Cosmetic” means a composition compatible with skin, mucous membranes and / or skin appendages.
[0017] The biphase composition according to the invention is substantially free of surfactants. It is also substantially free of siloxanes. A composition that is “substantially free of surfactants” means that, relative to the total weight of the composition, it contains less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of surfactants. Preferably, the biphase composition according to the invention is completely free of surfactants. Preferably, the biphase composition according to the invention is substantially free of nonionic surfactants, and more preferably completely free of nonionic surfactants. Preferably, the biphase composition according to the invention is substantially free of nonionic surfactants selected from polysorbates and polyglycerol esters (especially polyglycerol-3 diisostearate and polyglycerol-6 oleate), and more preferably completely free of nonionic surfactants selected from polysorbates and polyglycerol esters.
[0018] A composition that is “substantially free of siloxanes” means that, relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition contains less than 1% by weight of siloxanes, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.3% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight. Preferably, the biphase composition according to the invention is completely free of siloxanes.
[0019] oil phase The biphase composition according to the invention comprises an oil phase, said oil phase comprising at least squalane, dioctyl ether and a mixture of straight-chain or branched alkanes having 15 to 19 carbon atoms.
[0020] The oil phase is liquid at ambient temperature (20-25℃).
[0021] The concentration of the oil phase relative to the total weight of the biphase composition is preferably 2% to 30% by weight, preferably 2% to 25% by weight, preferably 5% to 20% by weight, and preferably 5% to 15% by weight.
[0022] Preferably, the concentration of the oil phase is about 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the biphase composition.
[0023] squalane Squalane (C 30 H 62 2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyltetracosane (chemical name) is a saturated hydrocarbon composed of a chain of 30 saturated carbon atoms as follows: [Chemical Formula 1]
[0024] It is made from squalene (C 30 H 50 It is obtained through hydrogenation. Originally, squalene was extracted from shark liver oil. Squalane, due to its saturated chemical structure, is much more stable than squalene, which is very easily peroxidized.
[0025] The squalane used in this invention is preferably plant-derived. Preferably, the squalane is derived from vegetable oils, most commonly olive oil, wheat germ oil, bran oil, rice oil, or olive starch.
[0026] Preferably, in this invention, squalane is extracted from olive oil.
[0027] For example, products sold under the name Neossance Squalane using the name Amyris.
[0028] Preferably, the biphase composition according to the invention comprises 45% to 80% squalane relative to the total weight of the oil phase. Preferably, the biphase composition according to the invention comprises 50% to 75% squalane, preferably 55% to 70% squalane, and more preferably 60% to 70% squalane relative to the total weight of the oil phase.
[0029] Dioctyl ether Dioctyl ether (or di-n-octyl ether) is a hydrocarbon oil derived from plant-derived fatty acids, such as those found in coconut.
[0030] It is sold by Cognis under the name Cetiol OE, or by Ecogreen under the name Rofetan OE.
[0031] Preferably, the biphase composition according to the invention comprises 5% to 30% by weight of dioctyl ether relative to the total weight of the oil phase. Preferably, the biphase composition comprises 5% to 25% by weight, more preferably 10% to 20% by weight, and more preferably 13% to 17% by weight of dioctyl ether relative to the total weight of the oil phase.
[0032] Straight-chain or branched alkanes with 15 to 19 carbon atoms The compositions according to the invention also comprise a mixture of straight-chain or branched alkanes having 15 to 19 carbon atoms.
[0033] As an example of alkanes suitable for use in this invention, a mixture of alkanes having 15 to 19 carbon atoms with a molecular weight of 200 g / mol to 250 g / mol may be mentioned.
[0034] Preferably, the alkane is branched.
[0035] Preferably, the alkanes are of plant origin.
[0036] Preferably, the mixture used comprises 95% to 99% by weight of C15-C19 branched alkanes relative to the total weight of the mixture, and 1% to 5% by weight of C12-C14 and C20-C26 alkanes relative to the total weight of the mixture. This mixture preferably has a molecular weight of about 216 g / mol. This mixture is sold by Seppic under the reference number Emogreen L15.
[0037] Optionally and preferably, the mixture used comprises 95% to 99% by weight of a C15-C19 branched alkane mixture relative to the total weight of the mixture and 1% to 5% by weight of a C12-C14 and C20-C26 alkane mixture relative to the total weight of the mixture. This mixture preferably has a molecular weight of about 248 g / mol. This mixture is sold by Seppic under the reference number Emogreen L19.
[0038] Alternatively, a mixture comprising 10% by weight of C15-C19 branched alkanes relative to the total weight of the mixture and 1% to 5% by weight of C12-C14 and C20-C26 alkanes relative to the total weight of the mixture may be used. This mixture is sold by Seppic under reference number Emosmart L19.
[0039] Preferably, relative to the total weight of the oil phase, the biphase composition according to the invention comprises 5% to 30% by weight of a mixture of straight-chain or branched alkanes having 15 to 19 carbon atoms. Preferably, relative to the total weight of the oil phase, the biphase composition according to the invention comprises 5% to 25% by weight, more preferably 10% to 20% by weight, and more preferably 13% to 17% by weight of a mixture of straight-chain or branched alkanes having 15 to 19 carbon atoms.
[0040] Aqueous phase The biphase composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase, preferably at least water.
[0041] The aqueous phase optionally includes at least one organic solvent that is soluble or miscible with water at 25°C.
[0042] The water-soluble or water-miscible solvents suitable for use in this invention include short-chain straight-chain or branched alkanols, such as C2-C4, like ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, or butanol; diols or polyols, particularly diols or polyols having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, diethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, sorbitol, polyethylene glycol having 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.
[0043] Specifically, ethanol, 1,3-butanediol, pentanediol and / or propylene glycol will be used.
[0044] Preferably, the water-soluble or water-miscible solvent is present in an amount of at least 2% by weight, preferably at least 3% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 6% by weight, and preferably at least 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
[0045] Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, and more preferably from 80% to 98% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
[0046] The concentration of the aqueous phase relative to the total weight of the biphase composition is preferably 70% to 98% by weight, preferably 75% to 98% by weight, preferably 80% to 95% by weight, and preferably 85% to 95% by weight.
[0047] The aqueous and / or oil phases may further contain conventional cosmetic surfactants and / or additives, such as electrolytes, chelating agents, fragrances, and / or preservatives.
[0048] Among the active agents, both hydrophilic and lipophilic active agents may be mentioned. Nicotinamide, plant extracts, adenosine, and vitamins, vitamin precursors, or derivatives may be mentioned as active agents. Plant extracts may be hydrophilic or lipophilic. Panthenol or tocopherol may be mentioned as vitamins, their precursors, or derivatives. Preferably, the biphasic composition according to the invention contains at least nicotinamide.
[0049] The electrolyte can be selected from sodium chloride or sodium sulfate.
[0050] The preferred electrolyte is sodium chloride.
[0051] Preferably, the active substance content of the electrolyte is 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, more preferably 0.1% to 2% by weight, and more preferably 0.2% to 1% by weight.
[0052] The present invention also relates to a method for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying a biphasic composition according to the invention to the keratin material, particularly to skin and / or hair.
[0053] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating and / or caring for human keratin materials, preferably skin, comprising stirring a biphasic composition according to the invention and then applying it to the surface of the keratin material.
[0054] The present invention also relates to the use of the biphasic composition according to the invention for the care of keratin materials, particularly skin, mucous membranes and / or hair.
[0055] "Human keratin materials" refer to skin (body, face, eye contour), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, nails, lips, and mucous membranes.
[0056] Unless otherwise stated, expressions “between… and…”, “ranging from… to…”, and “variing from… to…” should be understood to include the stated upper and lower limits.
[0057] Specific, but non-limiting, embodiments illustrating the invention will now be provided.
[0058] In the embodiments, unless otherwise stated, pressure is atmospheric pressure. Unless otherwise stated, percentages are given by weight. Detailed Implementation
[0059] Example Example 1: Preparation of the biphase composition according to the present invention The biphase composition according to the invention is prepared according to the method described below. It consists of 90% by weight of composition C1 (i.e., the aqueous phase) and 10% by weight of composition C2 (i.e., the oil phase).
[0060] The preparation method is as follows: Composition C1 was prepared by heating water and glycol in phase A1 to 60°C. The preservative was dissolved and the remaining components of A1 were introduced. The resulting phase was diluted with water from A2 and cooled, then the other components B, C, and E were introduced and homogenized by cold. At the end of the preparation, nicotinamide (F) was dissolved before the addition of ethanol (G). At the end of the preparation, the resulting aqueous phase was filtered through a 5µm filter.
[0061] The composition of the oil phase C2 was cold homogenized using an integrated method. At the end of the preparation, the obtained oil phase was filtered through a 50µm filter.
[0062] Finally, 90% by weight of composition C1 and 10% by weight of composition C2 are mixed.
[0063] Composition C1 - Aqueous phase: [Table 1]
[0064] Composition C2 - Oil Phase: [Table 2]
[0065] The resulting biphasic composition contains raw materials with a good wilderness quality index and / or natural and, in particular, plant-based sources.
[0066] Example 2: Evaluation of the composition according to the present invention The biphasic composition according to the present invention was tested in Example 1.
[0067] Stirring and stability tests: Stirring and stability tests over time were conducted to investigate the stability of the biphase composition after stirring.
[0068] The stability of the two-phase composition after stirring was proven to be excellent: there was no visible turbidity at the interface and no spiral formation after the two phases separated.
[0069] Consumer testing: Consumer testing was conducted to investigate the texture and sensory properties of the biphasic composition.
[0070] Over a four-week period, 62 women applied the biphasic composition to their skin. They were then assessed by answering “agree” or “somewhat agree” to determine whether the composition left a non-greasy / shine-free or lightweight feel on their skin after application.
[0071] [Table 3]
[0072] Overall, 98.4% of women found that the texture was non-greasy / shine-free after application, and their skin felt light.
[0073] Example 3: Preparation of comparative biphasic compositions A comparative biphasic composition was prepared according to the method of Example 1: They consist of 90% by weight of composition C1 (i.e., the aqueous phase) according to Table 1 of Example 1 and 10% by weight of composition C2a, C2b or C2c (i.e., the oil phase) detailed in Table 4.
[0074] Comparative compositions C2a, C2b, and C2c (and composition C2 according to Example 1 of the present invention) - oil phase: [Table 4]
[0075] Example 4: Evaluation of the comparative composition and the biphasic composition of Example 1 The comparative biphasic composition of Example 3 was tested and compared with the composition of Example 1 according to the present invention.
[0076] Stirring and stability tests: Stirring and stability tests over time were conducted to investigate the stability of each biphasic composition after stirring.
[0077] The following scores are determined based on the obtained stability results: _1: Fast and well-structured / clear interface _0: Not very fast and has poor layering / dull and unclear interface [Table 5]
[0078] Sensory test: Tests were conducted to investigate the texture and sensory properties of the biphasic composition.
[0079] The composition was evaluated based on the following parameters: application pleasure (smoothness during application) and good makeup effect on the skin after application, rated as follows from 1 to 4: _1: Texture: Very dry / Application: No smoothness / Skin finish: Matte _2: Texture: Dry feeling / Application: Not smooth enough / Skin makeup effect: Matte with insufficient radiance _3: Texture: Oil-free / Non-greasy / Application: Smooth / Skin finish: Lightweight and luminous _4: Texture: Too oily / Application: Too smooth / Skin finish: Very shiny.
[0080] [Table 6]
[0081] Only the biphasic compositions comprising composition C1 and composition C2 according to the present invention exhibit excellent layering properties, a non-greasy / shine-free texture after application, and leave the skin feeling light and radiant.
Claims
1. A composition comprising a separate aqueous phase and an oil phase, characterized in that, The oil phase comprises a mixture of squalane, dioctyl ether, and straight-chain or branched alkanes having 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and the composition is substantially free of surfactants and siloxanes.
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition is a biphasic composition.
3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, The composition comprises an aqueous phase and an oil phase in a weight ratio of 70:30 to 98:2, preferably 75:25 to 95:
5.
4. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The composition comprises an aqueous phase and an oil phase in a weight ratio of approximately 90:
10.
5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises 45% to 80% by weight, preferably 50% to 75% by weight, preferably 55% to 70% by weight, preferably 60% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oil phase, squalane.
6. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, relative to the total weight of the oil phase, the composition comprises 5% to 30% by weight, preferably 5% to 25% by weight, preferably 10% to 20% by weight, preferably 13% to 17% by weight of dioctyl ether.
7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, relative to the total weight of the oil phase, the composition comprises 5% to 30% by weight, preferably 5% to 25% by weight, preferably 10% to 20% by weight, preferably 13% to 17% by weight, a mixture of straight-chain or branched alkanes having 15 to 19 carbon atoms.
8. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The aqueous phase contains at least water.
9. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The aqueous phase comprises at least one organic solvent that is soluble or miscible with water at 25°C; preferably, the solvent is selected from short-chain straight-chain or branched alkanols, such as C2-C4 short-chain straight-chain or branched alkanols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol; diols or polyols, particularly diols or polyols having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, diethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, sorbitol, polyethylene glycol having 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.
10. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The aqueous phase contains at least 60% by weight of water, preferably at least 70% by weight, and more preferably from 80% to 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
11. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition contains less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, and preferably less than 0.1% by weight of a surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition, and contains less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, and preferably less than 0.1% by weight of a siloxane relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably, the biphase composition according to the invention is completely free of surfactant and siloxane.
12. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises at least one active agent selected from hydrophilic and lipophilic active agents, preferably selected from nicotinamide, plant extracts, adenosine and vitamins, vitamin precursors or derivatives, preferably at least nicotinamide.
13. A method for treating a keratin material, comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 to the keratin material.
14. The use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 for the care of keratin materials, particularly for skin, mucous membranes and / or hair.