Mohr yarn, textile, and apparel product
By optimizing the fiber structure and processing methods of core yarn and pattern yarn, the problem of easy shedding of moiré pattern yarn has been solved, resulting in lightweight, breathable and warm textiles and clothing, and reducing marine pollution.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202480047884.8
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-07-20
- Filing Date
- 2024-07-18
- Publication Date
- 2026-02-27
AI Technical Summary
The lace yarn in moiré is prone to shedding during washing, affecting the fluffy appearance and warmth of textiles and clothing, while synthetic resin fibers cause problems such as marine pollution and weight increase.
The design employs a core yarn and a patterned yarn. The core yarn is composed of synthetic resin fibers with a density of 0.3 dtex to 5.0 dtex, while the patterned yarn is composed of synthetic resin fibers with a density of 0.3 dtex to 8.0 dtex. By controlling the fiber height ratio and crimp rate, the patterned yarn is ensured to be fixed on the core yarn. False twist crimping is used to improve the space between fibers and the entanglement effect.
This resulted in textiles and clothing that are lightweight, breathable, and do not easily shed yarn, reducing marine pollution and improving wearing comfort and warmth.
Smart Images

Figure CN121586791A_ABST
Abstract
Description
[0001] Cross-referencing of related applications
[0002] This application claims priority to Japanese Patent Application No. 2023-118500, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. Technical Field
[0003] This invention relates to moiré yarn, textiles comprising the moiré yarn, and garment products comprising the textile. Background Technology
[0004] Mole yarn is a fibrous material containing a core yarn and multiple patterned yarns held within that core yarn. Compared to yarns consisting solely of a core yarn, mole yarn has a thicker, more fuzzy appearance due to the multiple patterned yarns that are piled up to cover the core yarn. Because of this characteristic appearance, mole yarn is also known as chenille yarn. Generally, mole yarn is used as a decorative yarn in fashion garment collars, or sold in handicraft shops as embroidery thread or hand-knitting thread.
[0005] Patent Document 1 discloses a moiré yarn using a core yarn and a pressing yarn. In this moiré yarn, the patterned yarn is fused and fixed between the core yarn and the pressing yarn, and the patterned yarn has a crimp with a radius of curvature of 0.5 mm or more and 5.0 mm or less. Patent Document 1 explains that this crimp can improve the bulkiness of the moiré yarn and make it suitable for use as a filling material.
[0006] Existing technical documents
[0007] Patent documents
[0008] Patent Document 1: Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 2022-13788
[0009] Patent Document 2: Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 4-352840 Summary of the Invention
[0010] The technical problem that the invention aims to solve
[0011] On the other hand, in moiré yarn, there is a common problem that individual yarns within multiple patterned yarns tend to detach from the core yarn during washing. In the areas where the patterned yarn has detached, the core yarn is exposed, compromising the fluffy and fuzzy appearance created by the multiple patterned yarns. Therefore, moiré yarn has historically been less desirable for applications such as manufacturing garments that are frequently washed or for textiles used as materials for such garments. Furthermore, marine pollution caused by microplastics has become a significant problem in recent years. Considering these factors, when using synthetic resin fibers as patterned yarns in moiré yarn, it is desirable to ensure that the patterned yarns do not easily detach from the core yarn even after washing. Additionally, while a fluffier garment generally offers advantages in terms of warmth, it can also lead to increased weight or stuffiness. Therefore, it is desirable to create garments that address these issues and provide maximum comfort.
[0012] Therefore, the objective of this invention is to provide a lightweight, heat-insulating, and breathable textile yarn that is easy to manufacture and suppresses yarn shedding, as well as the textile yarn and the garment product thereof.
[0013] Solutions for solving technical problems
[0014] To address the aforementioned issues, one embodiment of the moiré yarn comprises a core yarn and a plurality of patterned yarns held within the core yarn.
[0015] The core yarn is composed of multiple first long fibers, each of which has a single fiber fineness of 0.3 dtex or more and 5.0 dtex or less.
[0016] Each yarn contains multiple second long fibers and has a fixed portion that is held in place by the core yarn. The fineness of each second long fiber is 0.3 dtex or more and 8.0 dtex or less.
[0017] When the elongated direction of the moiré yarn and the long side direction of each patterned yarn are oriented in a horizontal direction, and the straight-line distance between the core yarn and the front end of each second long fiber is set as the height T1 of each second long fiber, and the straight-line distance between the core yarn and the front end of each second long fiber when each second long fiber is stretched in a straight line orthogonal to the elongated direction of the moiré yarn is set as the height T2 of each second long fiber, the ratio of height T1 to height T2, i.e., height T1 / height T2, is 0.88 or more. Attached Figure Description
[0018] Figure 1 These are microscope photographs taken under magnification of the moiré yarn in Embodiment 1.
[0019] Figure 2AThis is an electron microscope photograph of a cross-section of a hollow fiber, representing an example of a hollow fiber.
[0020] Figure 2B This is an electron microscope photograph of a cross-section of a fiber, representing an example of a flat fiber.
[0021] Figure 2C This is an electron microscope photograph of a cross-section of a fiber, representing an example of a false-twist processed fiber.
[0022] Figure 3 A schematic diagram illustrating the method for determining the radius of curvature of a collected long fiber (e.g., the second collected long fiber).
[0023] Figure 4 This is a schematic diagram illustrating the method for measuring the heights T1 and T2 of each of the second long fibers in the moiré yarn of Embodiment 1.
[0024] Figure 5 This is a schematic diagram illustrating an example of the method for manufacturing moiré yarn according to Embodiment 1 (in the case where the number of warp loops is 3 (n=3)). Figure 5 In the figure, S1, S2 and S3 are represented in the manufacturing method.
[0025] Figure 6 This is a schematic diagram illustrating an example of the method for manufacturing moiré yarn according to Embodiment 1 (in the case where the number of warp loops is 3 (n=3)). Figure 6 The text represents step S5 of the manufacturing method and an example of the produced moiré yarn.
[0026] Figure 7A This is a schematic diagram showing the structure of the moiré yarn containing a core yarn and multiple pattern yarns in Embodiment 1.
[0027] Figure 7B It means from Figure 7A The diagram shows a schematic representation of the configuration of each pattern yarn in the structure of the moiré yarn, excluding the core yarn.
[0028] Figure 8A This is a schematic diagram showing the structure of the moiré yarn containing the core yarn and multiple pattern yarns in Embodiment 2.
[0029] Figure 8B It means from Figure 8A The diagram shows a schematic representation of the arrangement of each pattern yarn in the structure of the moiré yarn of Embodiment 2, excluding the core yarn.
[0030] Figure 9A This is a schematic diagram showing the structure of the moiré yarn containing a core yarn and multiple pattern yarns in Embodiment 3.
[0031] Figure 9B It means from Figure 9A The diagram shows a schematic representation of the arrangement of each pattern yarn in the structure of the moiré yarn of Embodiment 3, excluding the core yarn.
[0032] Figure 10A This is a schematic diagram showing the structure of the moiré yarn containing a core yarn and multiple pattern yarns in Embodiment 4.
[0033] Figure 10B It means from Figure 10A The diagram shows a schematic representation of the arrangement of each pattern yarn in the structure of the moiré yarn of Embodiment 4, excluding the core yarn.
[0034] Figure 11A This is a schematic diagram showing the structure of the moiré yarn containing a core yarn and multiple pattern yarns in Embodiment 5.
[0035] Figure 11B It means from Figure 11A The diagram shows a schematic representation of the arrangement of each pattern yarn in the structure of the moiré yarn of Embodiment 5, excluding the core yarn.
[0036] Figure 12A This is a schematic diagram showing the structure of the moiré yarn containing a core yarn and multiple pattern yarns in Embodiment 6.
[0037] Figure 12B It means from Figure 12A The diagram shows a schematic representation of the arrangement of each pattern yarn in the structure of the moiré yarn of Embodiment 6, excluding the core yarn.
[0038] Figure 13A This is a schematic diagram showing the structure of the moiré yarn containing a core yarn and multiple pattern yarns in Embodiment 7.
[0039] Figure 13B It means from Figure 13A The diagram shows a schematic representation of the arrangement of each pattern yarn in the structure of the moiré yarn of Embodiment 7, excluding the core yarn.
[0040] Figure 14A This is a diagram showing a microscope photograph of the moiré yarn tested in Example 4.
[0041] Figure 14B This is a diagram showing a microscope photograph of the moiré yarn tested in Example 5.
[0042] Figure 14C This is a diagram showing a microscope photograph of the moiré yarn tested in Example 6.
[0043] Figure 14D This is a diagram showing a microscope photograph of the moiré yarn tested in Example 7.
[0044] Figure 14E This is a diagram showing a microscope photograph of the moiré yarn tested in Example 8.
[0045] Figure 14F This is a diagram showing a microscope photograph of the moiré yarn tested in Example 9.
[0046] Figure 14G This is a microscopic photograph of the moiré yarn tested in Comparative Example 10.
[0047] Figure 14H This is a diagram showing a microscope photograph of the moiré yarn tested in Comparative Example 11.
[0048] Figure 15A The diagram shows the weave of a mesh knitted fabric (textile) woven using only the moiré yarn tested in Examples 1 to 9 and Comparative Examples 10 and 11 as the material.
[0049] Figure 15B Indicates that the filming took place in Figure 15A The image shows a photograph of the surface of a mesh knitted fabric (textile).
[0050] Figure 15C The photographs show seamless shirts made using only the moiré yarn tested in Examples 1 to 9 and Comparative Examples 10 and 11 as materials. Detailed Implementation
[0051] Hereinafter, the moiré yarn of the present invention is a fiber material containing at least one core yarn and multiple patterned yarns held in the at least one core yarn. The multiple patterned yarns contained in the moiré yarn may also be multiple shorter patterned yarns (becoming multiple sliced patterned yarns) formed by cutting one or more relatively long patterned yarns during the manufacturing process of the moiré yarn.
[0052] Although not illustrated, the moiré yarn of the present invention may also contain two or more core yarns. For example, when the moiré yarn of the present invention is in the form of containing two core yarns, a portion of each patterned yarn can be sandwiched between the two core yarns by twisting the two core yarns together, thereby forming a two-ply yarn. For example, when the moiré yarn of the present invention is in the form of containing three core yarns, a portion of each patterned yarn can be sandwiched between the three core yarns by twisting the three core yarns together, thereby forming a three-ply yarn. Two or more core yarns of the same composition (e.g., resin) may be used as needed, or two or more core yarns of different composition (e.g., resin) may be used. When using two or more core yarns, at least one may be called a core yarn, and the remaining at least one may be called a pressing yarn. Patterned yarn may also be called feather yarn.
[0053] <Implementation Method 1>
[0054] Hereinafter, examples of embodiments will be described with reference to several accompanying drawings. The same or similar reference numerals will be used for the same or similar parts in the drawings. Furthermore, this specification will primarily focus on... Figure 1 The present invention is not limited to one embodiment of the moiré yarn 10a shown in Embodiment 1.
[0055] The moiré yarn 10a contains a chain-woven core yarn 20 and a plurality of pattern yarns 30a held in the core yarn 20. Each pattern yarn 33 contained in the plurality of pattern yarns 30a is clamped and fixed to the core yarn 20 and held in the core yarn 20.
[0056] Core yarn 20 is a multifilament yarn containing multiple first longest fibers. Because the first longest fibers in core yarn 20 are made of synthetic resin, it is easier to stretch and quick-dry compared to short fibers such as wool. For the same reason, compared to staple fiber yarns spun from short fibers, core yarn 20 has superior tensile strength, is less prone to breakage, and is extremely easy to handle.
[0057] Since each of the first long fibers contained in the core yarn 20 is crystalline and has a high melting point, it is possible to use thermoplastic polymers such as polyamides or polyesters, which are formed by condensation polymerization, based on the viewpoint that they are not easily flattened even when heated due to washing or other reasons. From the viewpoint of excellent softness, the first long fiber can also be, for example, a polyamide-based fiber. Examples of polyamides that can constitute polyamide-based fibers include: nylon 6, nylon 66, para-aramid (e.g., a condensation polymer of p-phenylenediamine and terephthaloyl chloride), and meta-aramid (e.g., a condensation polymer of m-phenylenediamine and isophthaloyl chloride).
[0058] Based on the viewpoints that it is not prone to shrinkage even after washing, dries quickly, and is easy to crimp, the first long fibers contained in the core yarn 20 are preferably polyester fibers. The polyester constituting the polyester fiber is a condensation polymer of a polycarboxylic acid and a polyol. Examples of polyesters include polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter also referred to as "PET"), polypropylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polyethylene naphthalate, or polybutylene naphthalate. Here, among the various polymers exemplified as constituting resins of polyamide fibers or polyester fibers, the first long fiber can be a fiber composed of one polymer, and from the viewpoint of easy crimping, it can also be a composite fiber composed of two or more polymers.
[0059] Based on the view that sweat becomes weakly acidic upon contact with alkaline sweat, thereby inhibiting bacterial growth, reducing the ammonia odor of sweat, and making it easier to remove dirt from the fiber surface during washing, the first long fibers contained in the core yarn 20 are preferably polyester fibers copolymerized from sulfonate metal salt compounds that can form esters as represented by formula (i) and / or sulfonate phosphate salt compounds that can form esters as represented by formula (ii).
[0060] [Chemical Formula 1]
[0061]
[0062] [Chemical Formula 2]
[0063]
[0064] In the above formula (i), A1 represents an aromatic group or an aliphatic group, preferably an aromatic hydrocarbon group with 6 or more and 15 or less carbon atoms or an aliphatic hydrocarbon group with 10 or less carbon atoms, more preferably an aromatic hydrocarbon group with 6 or more and 12 or less carbon atoms (e.g., a benzene ring). X1 represents a functional group that can form an ester, for example, functional groups represented by the following formula (iii) can be listed.
[0065] [Chemical Formula 3]
[0066]
[0067] In the above formula (iii), R' represents a lower alkyl or phenyl group, a and d are integers of 1 or more, and b is an integer of 2 or more.
[0068] In formula (i) above, X2 represents a functional group or hydrogen atom that is the same as or different from X1 and can form an ester, preferably a functional group that can form an ester. In formula (i) above, M is an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal and m is a positive integer, preferably M is an alkali metal (e.g., lithium, sodium or potassium) and m is 1.
[0069] Examples of sulfonate metal salt compounds that can form esters, represented by formula (i) above, include, for example, sodium 3,5-dicarboxymethoxybenzenesulfonate, potassium 3,5-dicarboxymethoxybenzenesulfonate, lithium 3,5-dicarboxymethoxybenzenesulfonate, sodium 3,5-dicarboxybenzenesulfonate, potassium 3,5-dicarboxybenzenesulfonate, lithium 3,5-dicarboxybenzenesulfonate, sodium 3,5-di(β-hydroxyethoxycarbonyl)benzenesulfonate, potassium 3,5-di(β-hydroxyethoxycarbonyl)benzenesulfonate, lithium 3,5-di(β-hydroxyethoxycarbonyl)benzenesulfonate, 2,6- Sodium dicarboxymethoxynaphthalene-4-sulfonate, potassium 2,6-dicarboxymethoxynaphthalene-4-sulfonate, lithium 2,6-dicarboxymethoxynaphthalene-4-sulfonate, sodium 2,6-dicarboxynaphthalene-4-sulfonate, sodium 2,6-dicarboxymethoxynaphthalene-1-sulfonate, sodium 2,6-dicarboxymethoxynaphthalene-3-sulfonate, sodium 2,6-dicarboxymethoxynaphthalene-4,8-disulfonate, sodium 2,6-dicarboxynaphthalene-4,8-disulfonate, sodium 2,5-bis(hydroxyethoxy)benzenesulfonate, and sodium α-sulfosuccinate, one or more of these compounds.
[0070] In formula (ii) above, A2 represents an aromatic or aliphatic group, the same as A1. X3 represents a functional group capable of forming an ester, the same as X1. X4 represents a functional group or hydrogen atom capable of forming an ester, the same as or different from X3, the same as X2. R1, R2, R3, and R4 represent the same or different groups selected from alkyl and aryl groups, respectively. n is a positive integer, preferably 1.
[0071] Examples of sulfonate phosphonates that can form esters, represented by formula (ii) above, include, for example, tetrabutylphosphonate 3,5-dicarboxybenzenesulfonate, ethyltributylphosphonate 3,5-dicarboxybenzenesulfonate, benzyltributylphosphonate 3,5-dicarboxybenzenesulfonate, phenyltributylphosphonate 3,5-dicarboxybenzenesulfonate, tetraphenylphosphonate 3,5-dicarboxybenzenesulfonate, butyltriphenylphosphonate 3,5-dicarboxybenzenesulfonate, benzyltriphenylphosphonate 3,5-dicarboxybenzenesulfonate, tetrabutylphosphonate 3,5-dicarboxybenzenesulfonate, ethyltributylphosphonate 3,5-dicarboxybenzenesulfonate, benzyltributylphosphonate 3,5-dicarboxybenzenesulfonate, tetraphenylphosphonate 3,5-dicarboxybenzenesulfonate, ethyltributylphosphonate 3,5-dicarboxybenzenesulfonate, phenyltributylphosphonate 3,5-dicarboxybenzenesulfonate, tetraphenylphosphonate 3,5-dicarboxybenzenesulfonate, ethyltributyl ... The compound comprises one or more of the following: 3,5-dicarboxybenzenesulfonate butyltriphenylphosphine, 3,5-dicarboxybenzenesulfonate benzyltriphenylphosphine, 3-carboxybenzenesulfonate tetrabutylphosphine, 3-carboxybenzenesulfonate tetrabutylphosphine, 3-carboxymethoxybenzenesulfonate tetrabutylphosphine, 3,5-di(β-hydroxyethoxycarbonyl)benzenesulfonate tetrabutylphosphine, 3,5-di(β-hydroxyethoxycarbonyl)benzenesulfonate tetrabutylphosphine, 3-(β-hydroxyethoxycarbonyl)benzenesulfonate tetrabutylphosphine, 3-(β-hydroxyethoxycarbonyl)benzenesulfonate tetrabutylphosphine, 4-hydroxyethoxybenzenesulfonate tetrabutylphosphine, 2,6-dicarboxynaphthalene-4-sulfonate tetrabutylphosphine, and α-tetrabutylphosphine sulfosuccinic acid.
[0072] In terms of reducing environmental burden and contributing to the realization of a sustainable society as advocated by the SDGs, the first long fibers contained in the core yarn 20 are preferably polyester fibers that have been chemically or materially recycled.
[0073] Among the various polymers exemplified as polyamide-based fibers or polyester-based fibers, the core yarn 20 may be a multifilament yarn containing a plurality of first long fibers composed of a single polymer, or it may be a multifilament yarn containing a plurality of first long fibers composed of two or more different polymers.
[0074] Based on the viewpoint that the core yarn 20 is less likely to flatten and that the patterned yarn 33 is easily maintained, the fineness of each first long fiber contained in the core yarn 20 is 0.3 dtex or more, preferably 0.4 dtex or more, and more preferably 0.5 dtex or more. If the fineness of the first long fiber is less than 0.3 dtex, the core yarn will easily flatten and become unusable due to the excessive fineness and fragility of the first long fiber. Based on the viewpoint that the patterned yarn 33 is less likely to fall off from the core yarn 20, the fineness of each first long fiber is 5.0 dtex or less, preferably 3.0 dtex or less, and more preferably 2.0 dtex or less. If the fineness of the first long fiber is greater than 5.0 dtex, the problem of the patterned yarn falling off due to washing will easily occur. Although the mechanism is still unclear, it can be speculated that when the single fiber fineness of the first long fiber is less than 5.0 dtex, the first long fiber contained in the core yarn 20 and the second long fiber contained in the pattern yarn 33 become easily entangled in thickness and become entangled with each other, making it difficult for the pattern yarn 33 to fall off from the core yarn 20.
[0075] In this specification, fineness is the value calculated by measuring the mass of 100m of yarn or fiber and multiplying it by 100. This process is repeated 10 times to obtain the average value.
[0076] Based on the viewpoint that the core yarn 20 is not prone to flattening, the total fineness of the core yarn 20 can also be 30 dtex or more, or 40 dtex or more, preferably 50 dtex or more, and more preferably 60 dtex or more. Based on the viewpoint that the pattern yarn 33 is not prone to falling off the core yarn 20 and that it is easy to manufacture lightweight and breathable textiles, the total fineness of the core yarn 20 can also be, for example, 100 dtex or less, preferably 90 dtex or less, and more preferably 80 dtex or less.
[0077] Based on the viewpoint of retaining the patterned yarn 33 in a way that prevents it from falling off, the core yarn 20 is preferably a multifilament yarn that has undergone false twisting and has been crimped. Based on the viewpoint of more easily retaining the patterned yarn 33 in a way that prevents it from falling off and of easily producing textiles with a soft texture, the crimp rate in the crimped core yarn 20 can be, for example, 3% or more, preferably 5% or more, and more preferably 10% or more. Based on the viewpoint of suppressing the resilience of the core yarn 20 from becoming too strong and easily producing textiles with less unevenness and a relatively uniform texture, the crimp rate in the crimped core yarn 20 can be, for example, 40% or less, preferably 30% or less, and more preferably 20% or less.
[0078] In this specification, the curl rate is the measured value obtained according to the method of "8.12.2 Curl Rate and Residual Curl Rate" in JIS L 1015-2010.
[0079] When the core yarn 20 is subjected to false twisting and has crimping, it is preferably a false twist crimped yarn. The false twist crimped yarn has torque in the S-direction or Z-direction depending on the direction of the applied twist. Examples of false twist crimped yarns include: a so-called one-heater false twist crimped yarn in which false twisting is applied in the first heater region, or a so-called second-heater false twist crimped yarn in which this yarn is further introduced into the second heater region and subjected to a loose heat treatment, thereby reducing the torque.
[0080] Each yarn 33 is a fiber group containing multiple second long fibers made of synthetic resin. Based on the viewpoint that it is not easily flattened even when heated due to washing, etc., each second long fiber contained in the yarn 33 can also be a polyamide fiber or a polyester fiber. Based on the viewpoint that it is not easily shrunken even after washing, dries quickly, and is easy to crimp, each second long fiber is preferably a polyester fiber. The yarn 33 can be a fiber group composed of a single type of second long fiber with the same polymer, or a fiber group composed of two or more types of second long fibers with different polymers. While each second long fiber can be a fiber composed of a single polymer, based on the viewpoint that the yarn 33 easily forms a fluffy appearance, each second long fiber is preferably a composite fiber composed of two or more polymers. Since composite fibers are prone to crimping, the yarn 33 composed of a group of composite fibers easily forms a fluffy appearance by crimping the various composite fibers.
[0081] Each of the second long fibers contained in the yarn 33 can be a long fiber with a generally circular cross-sectional shape, but is preferably a long fiber with an irregular cross-sectional shape (a long fiber with a non-circular cross-sectional shape). For example, the above-mentioned composite fiber, or fibers with various irregular cross-sectional shapes such as cross-shaped, Y-shaped, or W-shaped, can be used as each of the second long fibers. When using long fibers with irregular cross-sectional shapes as each of the second long fibers in the moiré yarn 10a, when multiple such long fibers are bundled together, the shapes such as concave and convex or grooves formed on each long fiber make it difficult for the long fibers to be densely packed together, and a larger inter-fiber space is formed. Therefore, from the viewpoint that textiles made from moiré yarn 10a can easily exert heat retention, sweat absorption and drying properties, and can easily exert a dry touch (a refreshing and cool touch) texture through the inter-fiber space, it is preferred. Furthermore, compared to long fibers with a circular cross-section, long fibers with an irregular cross-section shape, through the concave-convex or grooved features formed on the long fiber, can easily hook and entangle with each of the first long fibers contained in the core yarn 20. Therefore, from the viewpoint that the patterned yarn 33 is less likely to fall off from the core yarn 20, it is also preferable. Based on the same viewpoint, each second long fiber is more preferably a long fiber with an irregular cross-section selected from one or more of the following fibers: hollow fibers with hollow portions formed on the fiber cross-section, flat fibers with a generally flat fiber cross-section, and false-twist crimped fibers with a grooved fiber cross-section whose shape changes along the fiber axis direction.
[0082] like Figure 2A As shown, a preferred example of the hollow fiber described above can be cited as follows: a polyester fiber having a hollow portion formed in the center of its cross-section and a plurality of protrusions arranged radially around it. When multiple such hollow fibers are bundled together, since a relatively large inter-fiber space is easily formed through the eight protrusions of each hollow fiber, it exhibits excellent heat retention, sweat absorption, and quick-drying properties. Furthermore, compared to fibers with a circular cross-section having the same fiber diameter, it is considerably lighter due to the eight protrusions and the hollow portion. Therefore, from this viewpoint, the hollow fiber is preferred. Figure 2A In addition, such as Figure 2B As shown, a preferred example of the aforementioned flat fiber is a polyester fiber with a generally flat fiber cross-section, in which three grooves are formed by four protrusions on one fiber side and on the other fiber side. Compared to fibers with a circular cross-section, when multiple flat fibers are bundled together, the relatively large inter-fiber space is formed by the protrusions of each flat fiber, resulting in excellent sweat absorption (water absorption). The absorbed sweat (moisture) easily diffuses through the grooves, thus providing excellent quick-drying properties. Furthermore, due to its generally flat shape, it offers excellent breathability, and the fiber is easy to bend. From the viewpoint of easily exhibiting unique softness and drape, this flat fiber is preferred. Figure 2B ).like Figure 2C As shown, a preferred example of the aforementioned false-twist crimped fiber can be cited as follows: A false-twist crimped fiber is a polyester fiber in which the shape of the cross-section of the fiber with grooves formed on its side is non-amorphously varied along the fiber axis by performing a false-twist crimping process on the polyester fiber. This false-twist crimped fiber ( Figure 2C Compared to fibers with a circular cross-section, due to its non-amorphous fiber cross-section, it forms a larger inter-fiber space when multiple false-twist crimped fibers are bundled together. Therefore, it has excellent lightweight, sweat absorption and quick-drying properties, as well as a dry and comfortable feel. Furthermore, due to the concave and convex or grooved parts of the non-amorphous fiber cross-section, it is easy to entangle with each of the first longest fibers, making it less likely to fall off from the core yarn 20. Therefore, it is also preferred from the viewpoint of excellent washability.
[0083] From the viewpoint of inhibiting bacterial growth, reducing the ammonia odor of sweat, and easily removing dirt from the fiber surface during washing, each of the second long fibers contained in the yarn 33 is preferably a polyester fiber copolymerized from a sulfonate metal salt compound that can form an ester as represented by formula (i) and / or a sulfonate phosphate compound that can form an ester as represented by formula (ii). From the viewpoint of reducing environmental burden and contributing to the realization of a sustainable society as advocated by the SDGs, each of the second long fibers contained in the yarn 33 is preferably a polyester fiber that has been chemically recycled or material recycled.
[0084] Based on the viewpoint of improving heat retention by forming a fluffy and slightly fuzzy yarn 33, the fineness of each second long fiber contained in the yarn 33 is 0.3 dtex or more, preferably 0.4 dtex or more, and more preferably 0.5 dtex or more. If the fineness of each second long fiber is less than 0.3 dtex, the second long fibers become too fine and easily flatten, so multiple second long fibers tend to lie flat along the elongated axis of the chain-woven core yarn 20, making it difficult for the yarn to fuzz. Regarding the viewpoint that the yarn 33 is less likely to fall off from the core yarn 20, the fineness of each second long fiber contained in the yarn 33 is 8.0 dtex or less, preferably 6.5 dtex or less, or 5.0 dtex or less, preferably 3.0 dtex or less, and more preferably 2.0 dtex or less. If the fineness of each second long fiber is greater than 8.0 dtex, the yarn is easily shed during washing. It can be inferred that when the second longest fibers contained in the patterned yarn 33 have a single fiber fineness of less than 8.0 dtex, they become thick enough to easily entangle with the first longest fibers contained in the core yarn 20, and thus become entangled with each other, making it difficult for the patterned yarn 33 to fall off from the core yarn 20.
[0085] Each yarn 33 contains multiple second-long fibers that can be interconnected as follows: Figure 1The yarn is slightly open as illustrated. Based on the viewpoint of forming the patterned yarn 33 with a slightly napped, fluffy appearance, the yarn fineness of each patterned yarn 33, calculated as the sum of the individual fiber fineness of each of the second longest fibers, can be 30 dtex or more, or 50 dtex or more, preferably 60 dtex or more, and more preferably 70 dtex or more. Based on the viewpoint of preventing it from easily detaching from the core yarn 20 and of easily manufacturing lightweight and highly breathable textiles, the yarn fineness of each patterned yarn 33 can be, for example, 200 dtex or less, or 150 dtex or less, preferably 100 dtex or less, or 90 dtex or less, and more preferably 80 dtex or less.
[0086] Based on the viewpoint of improving heat retention by forming a fluffy, napped appearance in the yarn 33, each of the second longest fibers contained in the yarn 33 can be a fiber with curl (wrinkle). Based on the same viewpoint, the radius of curvature indicating the size of the curl in the second longest fiber can be, for example, 2.0 mm or less, 1.0 mm or less, or 0.50 mm or less, preferably 0.40 mm or less, more preferably 0.35 mm or less, and even more preferably 0.30 mm or less. On the other hand, assuming that each of the second longest fibers has excessive curl, the second longest fibers become entangled with each other to a greater extent than desired, thereby easily generating pilling or unevenness in textiles made using moiré yarn, which may slightly impair heat retention. Based on the viewpoint of applying curl in a manner that easily achieves heat retention, the radius of curvature indicating the size of the curl in each of the second longest fibers contained in the yarn 33 can be, for example, 0.10 mm or more, preferably 0.15 mm or more. Based on the viewpoint that the conditions for radius of curvature listed here are easily met, the false-twist crimped yarn described in the description of core yarn 20 can also be used as pattern yarn 33. In the case where the false-twist crimped yarn is used as pattern yarn 33, the multiple long fibers with crimps contained in the false-twist crimped yarn can be treated as multiple second long fibers.
[0087] In this instruction manual, such as Figure 3 As shown, the radius of curvature is a measurement of the radius of the curved shape formed by the long fiber 34, obtained using a two-dimensional image observed under a microscope. The radius of curvature is measured at 10 randomly selected locations at regular intervals along the elongated direction X of the moiré yarn 10a. At each location, a second long fiber is cut or pulled, and each collected long fiber 34 is observed using a microscope at a magnification that allows confirmation of the curled shape. Using this observation image, the radius of the curved shape formed by the curled long fiber is measured more than 10 times, and the average value of the measurements is taken as the radius of curvature of the long fiber.
[0088] like Figure 1 , Figure 4 and Figure 7AAs shown, in the moiré yarn 10a, within a loop 25 formed and tightened by chain braiding within a core yarn 20, a portion of each pattern yarn 33 (a plurality of second long fibers) is clamped and fixed, thereby forming a fixing portion 37 in each pattern yarn 33. That is, the fixing portion 37 is a state in which a portion of each pattern yarn 33 (a plurality of second long fibers) is wound and pressed tightly against the core yarn 20, and fixed between the core yarns 20. Furthermore, to illustrate the positional relationship of each pattern yarn 33 in the moiré yarn 10a, Figure 7B Indicates from Figure 7A The multiple patterned yarns 30a shown are in the state after excluding the core yarn 20 in the moiré yarn 10a. The remaining portions of each patterned yarn 33 (multiple second long fibers) that do not form a fixing portion 37 become feathers extending from each second long fiber in a slightly circumferentially spreading manner from the fixing portion 37 towards the core yarn 20, or are formed by pulling two fixing portions 37 together to form a composite portion 40 bound together with the core yarn 20. Figure 7A ) state.
[0089] Based on the viewpoint that each yarn 33 has a somewhat fluffy appearance and is easy to produce textiles with excellent heat retention, the height T1 of each second long fiber can be, for example, 1.5 mm or more, 3.0 mm or more, or 5.0 mm or more, preferably 6.0 mm or more, and more preferably 7.0 mm or more. Based on the viewpoint that it is easy to produce lightweight and highly breathable textiles, the height T1 of each second long fiber can be, for example, 15 mm or less, 12 mm or less, or 10 mm or less, preferably 9.0 mm or less, and more preferably 8.0 mm or less. Figure 4 As shown, the height T1 of each of the second long fibers listed here is the height when the elongated direction of the moiré yarn 10a and the long side direction of each patterned yarn 33 (each second long fiber) are respectively oriented in the horizontal direction. Figure 4 The shortest straight-line distance between the core yarn 20 and the leading edge (35a or 35b) of each of the second longest fibers (when the core yarn 20 is located in the XY plane). At this time, the elongated direction of the moiré yarn 10a is oriented towards direction X in any direction along the horizontal XY plane. In other words, when the second longest fibers are lying flat in the horizontal XY plane without any external force (e.g., traction), the height T1 can also be the height from the core yarn 20 to the leading edge (35a or 35b) of each of the second longest fibers.
[0090] Based on the viewpoint of easily manufacturing lightweight and highly breathable textiles, the height T2 of each second long fiber can be, for example, 15 mm or less, 12 mm or less, or 10 mm or less, preferably 9.5 mm or less, and more preferably 8.5 mm or less. The height T2 of each second long fiber listed here refers to the direction in which the elongated direction of the moiré yarn 10a and the long side direction of each patterned yarn 33 (each second long fiber) are respectively oriented towards the horizontal direction. Figure 4The shortest straight-line distance between the core yarn 20 and the leading edge (35a or 35b) of each second long fiber when it is stretched linearly in a direction Y orthogonal to the elongated direction along the moiré yarn 10a. In other words, when each second long fiber is stretched in a horizontal XY plane in a straight line in a direction Y orthogonal to the elongated direction along the moiré yarn, the height T2 can also be the height from the core yarn 20 to the leading edge (35a or 35b) of each second long fiber.
[0091] From the viewpoint of easily manufacturing textiles with excellent breathability, the ratio of the two heights (height T1 / height T2) of each of the second longest fibers is 0.880 or higher, and can also be, for example, 0.89 or higher, preferably 0.90 or higher, and more preferably 0.91 or higher. If the height ratio (height T1 / height T2) of each of the second longest fibers is 0.88 or higher, then when the moiré yarn 10a is observed under a microscope, the plurality of second longest fibers contained in the patterned yarn 33 have an appearance of standing upright from the core yarn 20. In the moiré yarn 10a, this appearance interacts with the finer second longest fibers, and air can easily pass through in the orthogonal direction Y. If the height ratio (height T1 / height T2) is less than 0.88, the lower the ratio, the more the second longest fibers become drooping towards the direction X along the elongated direction of the moiré yarn, and the airflow that wants to pass through in the orthogonal direction Y will be obstructed by the patterned yarn (the plurality of second longest fibers), thereby impairing the breathability of the textile containing the moiré yarn.
[0092] The height T1 of each of the second longest fibers in this specification is a value obtained by the following method. Black paper is placed on a flat table extending horizontally, and the moiré yarn is placed on the black paper. A sample is prepared by attaching the core yarn to the black paper in a straight line along the elongated direction of the moiré yarn. Care should be taken not to attach the second longest fiber to the black paper during attachment. If there is tangled yarn in the core yarn, the core yarn is attached to the black paper to prepare the sample after untangling the tangled yarn from the core yarn. The sample is photographed at 50x magnification at 10 locations using a microscope, and the resulting images at the 10 locations are used as follows: Figure 4 As shown, measure the straight-line distance between the core yarn 20 and the leading edge (35a or 35b) of each second long fiber. Measure this straight-line distance for 50 second long fibers and set the average value as the height T1 of each second long fiber.
[0093] The height T2 of each of the second long fibers in this specification is a value obtained by the following method. In the sample after calculating the value of the height T1, for each of the 50 identical second long fibers for which the straight-line distance was measured to calculate the height T1, the front end (35a or 35b) of each second long fiber was pinched and stretched in a straight-lined manner in a direction Y orthogonal to the elongated direction X along the moiré yarn. The front end (35a or 35b) of the second long fiber was then attached to black paper. The sample was held on the black paper with the second long fiber stretched into a straight line. Using a microscope at 50x magnification, the straight-line distance between the core yarn 20 and the front end (35a or 35b) of the 50 attached second long fibers was measured. This straight-line distance was measured for each of the 50 second long fibers, and the average value was set as the height T2 of each second long fiber.
[0094] The inventors have discovered that when a certain number of patterned yarns 33 are held within a core yarn 20 of a certain length, the patterned yarns 33 are less likely to fall off the core yarn 20. This can be presumed to be because when the fixing portion 37 of the patterned yarns 33 held within the core yarn 20 reaches a certain thickness, the core yarn 20 is compressed by the thickness of the fixing portion 37, thereby making it easier to stably hold the fixing portion 37 between the core yarns 20. From this viewpoint, in the direction X along the elongated direction of the moiré yarn 10a, the spacing between the fixing portions 37 holding the patterned yarns 33 within the core yarn 20 can be, for example, 6.0 mm or less or 4.0 mm or less, preferably 2.0 mm or less or 1.5 mm or less, and more preferably 1.2 mm or less. In other words, the number of fixing portions 37 holding the patterned yarn 33 along the elongated direction X of the moiré yarn 10a can be, for example, 4.2 portions / inch or more or 6.4 portions / inch or more, preferably 12.7 portions / inch or more or 16.9 portions / inch or more, and more preferably 21.2 portions / inch or more.
[0095] Furthermore, if too much patterned yarn 33 is held on a certain length of core yarn 20, the core yarn 20 will be excessively compressed by an excessive number of fixing parts 37, and some patterned yarn 33 will easily be squeezed out from between the core yarn 20. In other words, there is an upper limit to the amount of patterned yarn 33 that can be stably held in the core yarn 20. If the patterned yarn 33 is held in the core yarn 20 beyond this upper limit, it can be inferred that, corresponding to the excess amount, some patterned yarn 33 will easily fall out from the core yarn 20. In addition, in order to form a soft texture in the textile made using moiré yarn 10a, it is preferable that the core yarn 20 is not excessively compressed and has a slightly soft texture. From this point of view, the spacing between the fixing parts 37 in the direction X along the elongated direction of the moiré yarn 10a can be, for example, 0.5 mm or more, preferably 0.7 mm or more, and more preferably 0.9 mm or more. In other words, the number of fixing portions 37 along the elongated direction X of the moiré yarn 10a can be, for example, 50 portions / inch or less, preferably 36 portions / inch or less, and more preferably 28 portions / inch or less.
[0096] The spacing between the aforementioned fixing parts 37 is the average value of the following: the moiré yarn 10a is straightened as a whole in such a way that the direction X along the elongated direction of the moiré yarn 10a is horizontal, and the pattern yarn 33 entangled in the core yarn 20 is untangled, and each pattern yarn 33 is oriented in a direction Y orthogonal to the direction X. The moiré yarn 10a is attached to black paper to make a sample, and the sample is photographed at 10 points using a microscope at 50x magnification. Then, the spacing between adjacent fixing parts 37 is measured and the average value is calculated using the obtained photographic images at 10 points.
[0097] like Figure 1 , Figure 4 , Figure 7A and Figure 7B As shown, in the moiré yarn 10a, each patterned yarn 33 is held in place by forming two fixing portions 37 on each patterned yarn 33. That is, multiple loops 25 are formed that are tightly bound to the core yarn 20. Each patterned yarn 33 (multiple second long fibers) passes through two of the multiple loops formed on the core yarn at the midpoint of its long side and is fixed within each of the tightened loops 25. Thus, in the moiré yarn 10a, because each patterned yarn 33 has two fixing portions, compared to patterned yarns with only one fixing portion, each patterned yarn 33 is more securely held in place by the core yarn 20 and is less likely to fall off. Furthermore, as described, in each patterned yarn 33, the portion between the two fixing portions 37 is bound together with the core yarn 20 to form a composite portion 40. In this composite section 40, since the multiple first long fibers contained in the core yarn 20 and the multiple second long fibers contained in each pattern yarn 33 are more likely to entangle, each pattern yarn 33 in the moiré yarn 10a is also considered to be configured to be difficult to detach from the core yarn 20.
[0098] Based on the viewpoint that this moiré yarn 10a can easily produce textiles with a fluffy appearance and heat insulation properties, the total fineness of the moiré yarn 10a can be, for example, 550 dtex or more, preferably 600 dtex or more, and more preferably 650 dtex or more. Based on the viewpoint that this moiré yarn 10a can easily produce textiles with relatively lightweight and high breathability, the total fineness of the moiré yarn 10a can be, for example, 1,300 dtex or less or 1,000 dtex or less, preferably 900 dtex or less, and more preferably 800 dtex or less.
[0099] Each yarn 33 may also be fused and fixed to the core yarn 20 at one or more portions selected from the fixing portion 37 and the composite portion 40. In this case, low-melting-point polyester fibers may be contained in the plurality of first long fibers included in the core yarn 20 in a range of less than 10% by mass of the core yarn 20. Furthermore, in this case, low-melting-point polyester fibers may be contained in the plurality of second long fibers included in the yarn 33 in a range of less than 10% by mass of the yarn 33. Here, "low melting point" can be, for example, above 130°C and below 150°C. Examples of such low-melting-point polyester fibers include, for example, block copolymers containing polyester in the hard segments and polyether or polyester in the soft segments.
[0100] However, when using moiré yarn 10a with the patterned yarn 33 and core yarn 20 melt-fixed to produce textiles, the resulting textiles tend to have a slightly stiffer texture. Based on the viewpoint of easily producing textiles with a soft texture, it is preferable that the patterned yarn 33 and core yarn 20 are not substantially melt-fixed in moiré yarn 10a. Therefore, for example, the plurality of first long fibers contained in the core yarn 20 and the plurality of second long fibers contained in the patterned yarn 33 are preferably composed of polyester fibers with a melting point of 150°C or higher.
[0101] There is no particular limitation on the manufacturing method of the moiré yarn 10a. Those skilled in the art can manufacture it according to the description in this specification and by commonly used methods (for example, refer to Patent Document 2). As an example, the moiré yarn 10a can be manufactured by the method described below. First, prepare n core yarns that have not yet been chain-braided and (n-1) long pattern yarns that have not yet been cut. n is a natural number of 3 or more. Arrange the n core yarns in parallel and chain-braid them. At this time, while the long pattern yarns are alternately shuttled between the right-adjacent core yarn and the left-adjacent core yarn, they are woven in an overlapping manner with the core yarns, thereby manufacturing the moiré yarn 10a.
[0102] Reference Figure 5 and Figure 6 The manufacturing method described above is illustrated using the case where n=3 as an example. Figure 5As shown, the first warp loop 50a, the second warp loop 50b, and the third warp loop 50c are arranged in parallel from left to right, and the moiré yarn 10a is manufactured through steps S1 to S5 described below.
[0103] In step S1, a core yarn (20a, 20b, or 20c) is placed in each warp loop (50a, 50b, and 50c). In the leftmost first warp loop 50a, the core yarn 20a, which has not yet been chain-knitted, is overlapped with the first long pattern yarn 31, which has not yet been cut, to weave a loop 25a1 with the core yarn 20a and the first long pattern yarn 31 overlapping. In the second warp loop 50b, which is located to the right of the first warp loop 50a, a loop 25b1, which has the core yarn 20b and the second long pattern yarn 32, which has not yet been cut, is also woven in the same way. On the other hand, in the third warp loop 50c, which is located to the right (rightmost) of the second warp loop 50b, a loop 25c1 consisting only of the core yarn 20c is woven.
[0104] In the next step S2, in the leftmost first warp loop 50a, from the loop (25a1 or 25a3) formed in the previous step, which overlaps the core yarn 20a and the first long pattern yarn 31, only the first long pattern yarn 31 is stretched toward the right-adjacent second warp loop 50b, and only the core yarn 20a is passed through the loop (25a1 or 25a3) to weave a new loop 25a2 formed only by the core yarn 20a. In the second warp loop 50b, from the loop (25b1 or 25b3) formed in the previous step, which overlaps the core yarn 20b and the second long pattern yarn 32, only the second long pattern yarn 32 is stretched toward the third warp loop 50c located to the right. The core yarn 20b overlaps with the first long pattern yarn 31 stretched from the first warp loop 50a located to the left, and passes through the loop (25b1 or 25b3) formed in the previous step to weave a new loop 25b2 that overlaps the core yarn 20b and the first long pattern yarn 31. In the third warp loop 50c, the core yarn 20c is stretched from the loop (25c1 or 25c3 described later) formed solely by the core yarn 20c formed in the "previous step," and overlapped with the second long pattern yarn 32 stretched from the adjacent second warp loop 50b. Then, it is woven through the loop (25c1 or 25c3 described later) formed in the "previous step," creating a new loop 25c2 with the core yarn 20c and the second long pattern yarn 32 overlapping. Furthermore, in this step S2, "previous step" refers to step S1 when step S2 is performed for the first time.
[0105] In the next step S3, in the rightmost third warp loop 50c, from the loop 25c2 formed in the previous step S2, which overlaps the core yarn 20c and the second long pattern yarn 32, only the second long pattern yarn 32 is stretched toward the adjacent second warp loop 50b, and only the core yarn 20c is passed through the loop 25c2, thus weaving a new loop 25c3 consisting only of the core yarn 20c. In the second warp loop 50b, from the loop 25b2 formed in the previous step S2, which overlaps the core yarn 20b and the first long pattern yarn 31, only the first long pattern yarn 31 is stretched toward the adjacent first warp loop 50a, and the core yarn 20b overlaps with the second long pattern yarn 32 stretched from the adjacent third warp loop 50c, and passes through the loop 25b2 formed in the previous step S2, thus weaving a new loop 25b3 overlapping the core yarn 20b and the second long pattern yarn 32. In the first warp loop 50a located on the far left, the core yarn 20a is stretched from the loop 25a2 formed by the core yarn 20a in the previous step S2 and overlapped with the first long pattern yarn 31 stretched from the second warp loop 50b located on the right. Then, it passes through the loop 25a2 formed in the previous step S2 and weaves a new loop 25a3 with the core yarn 20a and the first long pattern yarn 31 overlapping.
[0106] Although not illustrated, steps S2 and S3 are performed alternately multiple times in the next step S4. Thus, chain braiding is performed on one core yarn (20a, 20b, or 20c) in each warp loop (50a, 50b, and 50c). Simultaneously, the first long pattern yarn 31 is bridged by alternately intertwining the left-adjacent core yarn 20a with the right-adjacent core yarn 20b. Similarly, the second long pattern yarn 32 alternately bridges the left-adjacent core yarn 20b with the right-adjacent core yarn 20c. When step S2 is performed for the second time or more in step S4, the "previous step" in step S2 refers to the just-performed step S3.
[0107] After steps S1 to S4 above, following the weaving of the core yarns (20a, 20b, and 20c) with the first long pattern yarn 31 and the second long pattern yarn 32, the following steps are performed: Figure 6Step S5 is shown. In step S5, at the midpoint 55a between the first warp loop 50a and the second warp loop 50b, the bridging portion between the core yarn 20a and the core yarn 20b in the first long patterned yarn 31 is cut. By cutting, a single first long patterned yarn 31 becomes a plurality of relatively short patterned yarns 30a (as a plurality of fragmented patterned yarns). Similarly, at the midpoint 55b between the second warp loop 50b and the third warp loop 50c, the bridging portion between the core yarn 20b and the core yarn 20c in the second long patterned yarn 32 is cut, and a plurality of relatively short patterned yarns 30a (as a plurality of fragmented patterned yarns) are formed from a single second long patterned yarn 32. Furthermore, when the core yarn 20b is stretched at both ends, the yarn loops (25b1, 25b2, and 25b3) are tightened (shrunk), and in each tightened yarn loop 25, a portion of each patterned yarn 33 is clamped and fixed within the yarn loop 25, thereby forming a moiré yarn 10a.
[0108] Regarding step S5 above, Figure 6 The text describes an example where, after cutting the first long patterned yarn 31 and the second long patterned yarn 32, the yarn loops (25b1, 25b2, and 25b3) are tightened to form the moiré yarn 10a. Alternatively, based on the viewpoint that it is easier to manufacture the moiré yarn 10a, in the above-mentioned steps S4 or S5, it is preferable to form the moiré yarn 10a by cutting the first long patterned yarn 31 and the second long patterned yarn 32 after tightening the yarn loops (25b1, 25b2, and 25b3) and keeping the core yarn 20b holding the first long patterned yarn 31 and the second long patterned yarn 32. Furthermore, in... Figure 5 and Figure 6 The method for manufacturing Mohr yarn 10a when n=3 is described, but a higher n value allows for the simultaneous production of a larger quantity of Mohr yarn 10a, making it preferable. When n is 4 or higher, if the leftmost first warp loop and the rightmost nth warp loop are excluded, one Mohr yarn 10a can be manufactured for each warp loop. That is, (n-2) Mohr yarns 10a can be manufactured simultaneously. Furthermore, Figure 6 The length of the interval between the intermediate positions 55a and 55b shown (that is, the length of the cutting width L between the cut portion of the first long yarn 31 and the cut portion of the second long yarn 32) is likely to be a length that is relatively close to twice the height T1 of each of the second long fibers. Furthermore, in Figure 6 The lower side shows a microscopic photograph of a prototype in which six fixing parts 37 (24 parts / inch) are formed every 0.25 inches along the elongated direction X of the moiré yarn 10a. That is, the fixing parts 37 in this case are spaced apart by a distance D of 1 / 24 inch.
[0109] go through Figure 5 and Figure 6 The illustrated manufacturing method, for example in the moiré yarn 10a formed by the second warp loop 50b, such as... Figure 7A As shown, in direction X, along the elongated direction of the moiré yarn 10a, each patterned yarn 33, together with the core yarn 20, is connected to a composite section 40. Figure 7A In the middle, the front ends (35a and 35b) of each pattern yarn 33, facing upwards (to one side) of the paper surface relative to the core yarn 20, originate from the first long pattern yarn 31. Figure 7A In the middle, the front end (35a and 35b) of the patterned yarn 33, facing downwards (on the other side) relative to the core yarn 20, originates from the second longest patterned yarn 32. Furthermore, from... Figure 7B As can be seen from this, in the moiré yarn 10a, along the elongated direction X of the moiré yarn 10a, the yarn 33 from the first long yarn 31 facing upward (one side) of the paper surface and the yarn 33 from the second long yarn 32 facing downward (the other side) of the paper surface are alternately connected. Therefore, for example, when the moiré yarn 10a is manufactured using yarns with slightly different physical properties, such as the first long yarn 31 and the second long yarn 32, it is also possible to manufacture moiré yarn 10a with significantly different softness or texture characteristics on the upper (one side) and lower (the other) sides of the paper surface.
[0110] Although not illustrated, one embodiment of the textile is a textile containing moiré yarn 10a. Examples include fabrics or knitted fabrics composed of moiré yarn 10a. The textile can also be, for example, a fabric woven from moiré yarn 10a and polyester fibers, or a knitted fabric composed of moiré yarn 10a and polyester fibers. Based on the viewpoint that containing a certain amount of moiré yarn 10a in the textile facilitates the application of the heat-insulating, lightweight, and breathable properties provided by the moiré yarn 10a, the content of moiré yarn 10a in the textile can be, for example, higher than 50% by mass, or 60% or more by mass, 70% or more by mass, 80% or more by mass, or 90% or more by mass, preferably 95% or more by mass, or 98% or more by mass, more preferably 99% or more by mass, or 100%. In other words, the textile is more preferably a fabric or knitted fabric substantially composed of moiré yarn 10a. Based on the viewpoint that it is easier to manufacture than a fabric, the textile is more preferably a knitted fabric composed of moiré yarn 10a.
[0111] Based on the viewpoint that the heat-insulating properties provided by Mohr yarn 10a can be easily utilized, in order to use a certain amount of Mohr yarn 10a, the unit area weight of textiles containing Mohr yarn 10a can, for example, be 200 g / m². 2 The preferred value is 250g / m³. 2 The above. Based on the viewpoint of constructing textiles to be relatively lightweight and highly breathable, the weight per unit area of textiles containing Mohr yarn 10a can, for example, be 350 g / m². 2 The preferred value is 300g / m³. 2In this specification, the weight per unit area is the measured value obtained by means of the determination method based on 8.3 of JIS L 1096-2010.
[0112] In the manufacture of textile products (such as clothing products) that can be washed repeatedly on a daily basis, from the viewpoint of easy use of textiles, the fiber shedding rate of textiles containing moiré yarn 10a can be, for example, 0.80% or less or 0.50% or less, preferably 0.30% or less, and more preferably 0.20% or less.
[0113] The fiber shedding rate values in this specification are obtained by the following method.
[0114] (Method for measuring fiber shedding rate)
[0115] Step 1: Obtain three 300mm x 300mm test pieces made of synthetic fibers from textiles or other fiber products. At this point, use a flat nickel-chromium alloy heater-type soldering iron (Ishizaki Electric Manufacturing Co., Ltd., model: SB-100) to cut 300mm x 300mm slices from the textile as test pieces.
[0116] Step 2: The mass of the obtained test pieces is measured to an accuracy of 0.1 μg using an electronic balance. No detergent is used, and the test pieces are washed one by one in a drum washing machine according to JIS L 1930 C4M method. The washed test pieces are then dried by tumbling in the same drum washing machine.
[0117] Step 3: Use an electronic balance to measure the mass of the dried test piece to an accuracy of 0.1 μg. Use the mass measurement value of the test piece before washing as L0, and the mass measurement value of the test piece after washing and drying as L1, and calculate the fiber (microplastic) shedding rate (%) from the test piece using the following formula.
[0118] Shedding rate (%) = ((L0-L1) / L0) × 100
[0119] Based on the viewpoint of easily manufacturing fiber products (such as clothing products) that are quick-drying and not prone to stuffiness, the time for the diffuse residual moisture content of textiles containing Mohr yarn 10a to reach 10% or less is preferably 80 minutes or less. The shorter this time, the faster the textile can dry, which is preferred. In this specification, the diffuse residual moisture content is the value calculated by dropping approximately 0.6 g of water into the sample (textile) in an atmosphere at 20°C and 65% RH, measuring the mass at various times, and then using the following mathematical formula.
[0120] Residual moisture percentage (%) = Moisture content at each time point (g) / Moisture content immediately after dripping (on the back side) (g) × 100
[0121] Based on the viewpoint that it is easy to manufacture fiber products (such as clothing products) that are quick-drying and not stuffy, the air permeability of textiles containing moiré yarn 10a is preferably 100 cc / (cm). 2 150cc / (cm) or more. 2 (seconds) or more. In this specification, air permeability is the measured value obtained according to method 8.26.1A (Frazier Method) of JIS L 1096-2010.
[0122] From the viewpoint that it is easy to manufacture fiber products with excellent thermal insulation properties (such as clothing products), the thermal insulation rate of textiles containing moiré yarn 10a is preferably 60% or more, more preferably 65% or more. The thermal insulation rate values in this specification are values measured according to the test method 8.27 of JIS L 1096.
[0123] Although not illustrated, one embodiment of the garment product is a textile product containing moiré yarn 10a. Examples include: tops, trousers, skirts, outerwear, underwear, pajamas, hats, gloves, and socks. Based on the viewpoint that the moiré yarn 10a, which is less likely to detach from the core yarn 20 due to the use of the patterned yarn 33, the garment product containing the textile containing moiré yarn 10a is preferably a general garment that is frequently washed. Furthermore, based on the viewpoint that the moiré yarn 10a provides warmth, lightness, and breathability, the garment product containing the textile containing moiré yarn 10a is more preferably a garment product that replaces conventional fleece materials. In the case of a garment product that replaces fleece materials, the weight of the garment product is preferably 200g or more and 450g or less.
[0124] <Other Implementation Methods 2 to 8>
[0125] Below, refer to Figures 8A to 13B To illustrate other embodiments of the molar yarn (10b to 10g). These molar yarns (10b to 10g) each have the same properties as the molar yarn 10a ( Figure 7A The structure and effects are largely the same. Explanations of similarities to Mohr yarn 10a are omitted here; the main focus is on the differences.
[0126] Figure 8AThe moiré yarn 10b of Embodiment 2 shown includes a chain-woven core yarn 20 and a plurality of pattern yarns 30b held within the core yarn 20. Each pattern yarn 33 contained in the plurality of pattern yarns 30b forms two fixing portions 37, which are clamped within a loop 25 formed and bound within the core yarn 20. The moiré yarn 10b is used, for example, in... Figure 5 and Figure 6 In the described manufacturing method (when n=3), it is possible to manufacture on the third warp loop (the nth warp loop). That is, each pattern yarn 33 in the moiré yarn 10b can originate from the second long pattern yarn 32, and both the first front end 35a and the second front end 35b face towards... Figure 8A On the upper side (one side) of the paper surface. On the other hand, moiré yarn 10b does not contain any material that causes the front end to face... Figure 8A The floral yarn on the underside (other side) of the paper. Figure 8B In order to illustrate the positional relationship of each pattern yarn 33 in the moiré yarn 10b, the following is shown: Figure 8A The multiple patterned yarns 30b in the state of the moiré yarn 10b after removing the core yarn 20 (furthermore, as described later) Figure 9A and Figure 9B Relationship Figure 10A and Figure 10B Relationship Figure 11A and Figure 11B Relationship Figure 12A and Figure 12B Relationship and Figure 13A and Figure 13B The relationship between them, respectively. Figure 8A and Figure 8B The relationship is the same. Figure 8A and Figure 8B As can be seen, in direction X along the elongated direction of the moiré yarn 10b, the composite portion 40, where the core yarn 20 and each pattern yarn 33 are bound together, is alternately and repeatedly connected to the portion containing only the core yarn 20. The moiré yarn 10b has a fluffy appearance on the upper side (one side) of the paper surface due to the pattern yarns 33, but on the lower side (the other side), it lacks pattern yarns and is similar to the moiré yarn 10a (… Figure 7A It is lighter than that.
[0127] Figure 9A The moiré yarn 10c of embodiment 3 shown includes a chain-woven core yarn 20 and a plurality of pattern yarns 30c held within the core yarn 20. Each pattern yarn 33 contained in the plurality of pattern yarns 30c forms two fixing portions 37, which are clamped within a loop 25 formed and bound within the core yarn 20. (This is in contrast to the moiré yarn 10b described above.) Figure 8A and Figure 8B Compared to ), Mohr yarn 10c ( Figure 9A and Figure 9BIt is constructed in a roughly the same way, but differs in that the first front end 35a faces the upper side (one side) of the paper and the second front end 35b faces the lower side (the other side) of the paper. The moiré yarn 10c has a more voluminous appearance on both the upper side (one side) and the lower side (the other side) of the paper through the patterned yarn 33, and is similar to the moiré yarn 10a (…). Figure 7A and Figure 7B Compared to other yarns, yarn 33 is lighter due to its smaller amount of yarn.
[0128] Figure 10A The moiré yarn 10d of embodiment 4 shown includes a chain-woven core yarn 20 and a plurality of pattern yarns 30d held within the core yarn 20. Each pattern yarn 33 contained in the plurality of pattern yarns 30d forms two fixing portions 37, which are clamped within a loop 25 formed and bound within the core yarn 20. Among the pattern yarns 33 in the moiré yarn 10d, such as... Figure 10B As shown, the first front end 35a faces the upper side (one side) of the paper surface and the second front end 35b faces the lower side (the other side) of the paper surface. This is consistent with the moiré yarn 10a ( Figure 7A and Figure 7B Compared to other yarns, even if the physical properties of the first long yarn and the second yarn used in the manufacturing process of, for example, Mohr yarn 10d are different, it is easy to make the softness and texture properties roughly uniform on the upper side (one side) and the lower side (the other side) of the paper.
[0129] Figure 11A The moiré yarn 10e of embodiment 5 shown includes a chain-woven core yarn 20 and a plurality of pattern yarns 30e held in the core yarn 20. Each pattern yarn 33 contained in the plurality of pattern yarns 30e has three fixing parts 37. Figure 11B The fixing part 37 passes through three of the multiple loops formed and bound within the core yarn, and both the first front end 35a and the second front end 35b face upwards (to one side) of the paper surface. In the direction X along the elongated direction of the moiré yarn 10e, the composite part 40, in which each pattern yarn 33 is bound together with the core yarn 20, is alternately and repeatedly connected to the part containing only the core yarn 20. In the moiré yarn 10e, since each pattern yarn 33 has three fixing parts 37, it is connected to the moiré yarn 10b as described above ( Figure 8A and Figure 8B Compared to the case where each yarn 33 has two fixing parts, it is preferable from the viewpoint that the yarn 33 is less likely to fall off from the core yarn 20.
[0130] Figure 12A The moiré yarn 10f of embodiment 6 shown includes a chain-woven core yarn 20 and a plurality of pattern yarns 30f held in the core yarn 20. Each pattern yarn 33 contained in the plurality of pattern yarns 30f has three fixing parts 37. Figure 12BIn the moiré yarn 10f, each yarn 33 has its first front end 35a facing the upper side (one side) of the paper surface and its second front end 35b facing the lower side (the other side) of the paper surface. Apart from this, the moiré yarn 10f and the moiré yarn 10e (… Figure 11A They have the same composition.
[0131] Figure 13A The moiré yarn 10g of Embodiment 7 shown contains a chain-woven core yarn 20 and a plurality of pattern yarns 30f held in the core yarn 20. Each pattern yarn 33 contained in the plurality of pattern yarns 30f has three fixing parts 37. Figure 13B In the direction X along the elongated direction of the moiré yarn 10g, each patterned yarn 33, together with the core yarn 20, is repeatedly connected to the composite section 40, except that the moiré yarn 10g and the moiré yarn 10e ( Figure 11A They have the same composition.
[0132] From the viewpoint that the patterned yarn is less likely to detach from the core yarn, the moiré yarn of the present invention preferably has two or more fixing parts in each patterned yarn, more preferably three or more fixing parts. From the viewpoint of avoiding complexity in the manufacturing process, the moiré yarn of the present invention can also have five or fewer fixing parts or four or fewer in each patterned yarn.
[0133] The following are among the matters disclosed in this specification. (1)
[0135] A moiré yarn comprising a core yarn and a plurality of patterned yarns held in the core yarn.
[0136] The core yarn is composed of multiple first long fibers, each of which has a single fiber fineness of 0.3 dtex or more and 5.0 dtex or less.
[0137] Each yarn contains multiple second long fibers and has a fixed portion that is held in place by the core yarn. The fineness of each second long fiber is 0.3 dtex or more and 8.0 dtex or less.
[0138] When the elongated direction of the moiré yarn and the long side direction of each patterned yarn are oriented in a horizontal direction, and the straight-line distance between the core yarn and the front end of each second long fiber is set as the height T1 of each second long fiber, and the straight-line distance between the core yarn and the front end of each second long fiber when each second long fiber is stretched in a straight line orthogonal to the elongated direction of the moiré yarn is set as the height T2 of each second long fiber, the ratio of height T1 to height T2, i.e., height T1 / height T2, is 0.88 or more. (2)
[0140] The moiré yarn described in (1) is wherein the core yarn is subjected to false twisting and the crimp rate is 3% or more and 40% or less. (3)
[0142] The moiré yarn as described in (1) or (2) is wherein each patterned yarn is held in the core yarn such that the spacing between the fixed portions is 0.5 mm or more and 2.0 mm or less. (4)
[0144] The moiré yarn described in any one of (1) to (3) is wherein each moiré yarn is held in the core yarn by forming two or more of the fixing portions on each moiré yarn. (5)
[0146] The moiré yarn described in any one of (1) to (4) wherein each of the second long fibers has an irregular cross section and each of the second long fibers is one or more long fibers selected from hollow fibers with a hollow portion formed in the fiber cross section, flat fibers with a generally flat fiber cross section, and false twist crimped fibers with a grooved fiber cross section and the shape of the fiber cross section changes along the fiber axis. (6)
[0148] The molar yarn described in any one of (1) to (5) is wherein the height T1 is 1.5 mm or more and 15.0 mm or less. (7)
[0150] The molar yarn described in any one of (1) to (6) wherein at least one of the plurality of first long fibers and the plurality of second long fibers comprises: a polyester fiber copolymerized from a sulfonate metal salt compound that can form an ester and / or a sulfonate phosphate compound that can form an ester. (8)
[0152] The molar yarn described in any one of (1) to (7) wherein at least one of the plurality of first long fibers and the plurality of second long fibers contains a polyester fiber that has been chemically or materially recycled. (9)
[0154] The molar yarn described in any of (1) to (8) has a total fineness of 550 dtex or more and 1,000 dtex or less. (10)
[0156] The molar yarn described in any of (1) to (9) has a fiber shedding rate of less than 0.8%. (11)
[0158] A textile comprising a moiré yarn as described in any one of (1) to (10). (12)
[0160] The textile described in (11) has a unit area weight of 200 g / m². 2 Above and 350g / m 2 the following. (13)
[0162] The textiles described in (11) or (12) wherein the time for the diffuse residual moisture content to reach less than 10% is less than 80 minutes. (14)
[0164] The textile described in any of (11) to (13) has an air permeability of 100 cc / (cm). 2 . seconds) or more. (15)
[0166] A garment product comprising textiles as described in any one of (11) to (14). (16)
[0168] The moiré yarn described in any one of (1) to (10) comprises: the core yarn chain-woven in a manner forming a plurality of loops, and the plurality of patterned yarns holding the patterned yarns through each of the plurality of loops.
[0169] According to the moiré yarn described in (1), multiple patterned yarns can easily form a fluffy appearance and easily possess heat retention. Furthermore, by making each of the second longest fibers have the aforementioned single fiber fineness and making the aforementioned ratio (height T1 / height T2) 0.88 or higher, it is possible to achieve an appearance where the relatively fine second longest fibers stand upright from the core yarn when the moiré yarn is observed under a microscope, making the multiple patterned yarns easily become lightweight and breathable patterned yarns. Moreover, by making each of the first longest fibers contained in the core yarn have the aforementioned single fiber fineness, each patterned yarn is less likely to fall off from the core yarn.
[0170] This invention is not limited to the embodiments described above. Without departing from the spirit of the invention, it can be implemented with various modifications, alterations, or variations based on the knowledge of those skilled in the art. In this invention, a specific element can be replaced with other technical forms and implemented while producing the same effect.
[0171] Example
[0172] Several embodiments are described below, but the present invention is not limited to the following embodiments.
[0173] Core yarn: False twist crimped yarn A1
[0174] Polyethylene terephthalate (containing 0.3% by mass of matting agent, semi-dull (SD: SemiDull)) was melt-spun at 280°C in a conventional spinning apparatus, drawn at a speed of 2,800 m / min, and directly wound without stretching to obtain a semi-stretched multifilament yarn. This multifilament yarn contains 36 PET long fibers, each with a circular cross-sectional shape. Under conditions of a stretch ratio of 1.6, a false twist of 2,500 T / m (S direction), a heater temperature of 180°C, and a yarn speed of 350 m / min, the multifilament yarn was simultaneously stretched and false-twist crimped to produce a false-twist crimped yarn A1 (PET SD84T36, crimp rate 20%) with a total fineness of 84 dtex / 36 fibers. The individual fiber fineness of the PET long fibers contained in yarn A1 is approximately 2.3 dtex.
[0175] Core yarn: False twist crimped yarn A2
[0176] Polyethylene terephthalate (containing 0.3% by mass of matting agent) was melt-spun from a conventional spinning apparatus at 280°C, drawn up at a speed of 2,800 m / min, and directly wound without stretching to obtain a semi-stretched multifilament yarn.
[0177] This multifilament yarn is used to produce false-twist crimped yarns with torque in the S-direction and false-twist crimped yarns with torque in the Z-direction. Specifically, stretching and false-twist crimping are performed simultaneously under the conditions of an extension ratio of 1.6, a false twist number of 2,500 T / m (S-direction or Z-direction), a heater temperature of 180℃, and a yarn speed of 350 m / min, resulting in two types of false-twist crimped yarns with different torque directions.
[0178] Next, the false-twist crimped yarn with torque in the S direction and the false-twist crimped yarn with torque in the Z direction are combined and subjected to air entanglement treatment. This air entanglement treatment is performed using a cross-linking nozzle with an overfeed rate of 1.0% and a compressed air pressure of 0.3 MPa (3 kgf / cm²). 2 An entanglement of 50 strands / m was applied, and a false-twist crimped yarn A2 (PET SD66T72, crimp rate 28%) was produced as a composite yarn. The total fineness of this yarn A2 is 66 dtex / 72 strands, the torque is 0 T / m, and the fineness of the individual PET long fibers contained in yarn A2 is approximately 0.92 dtex.
[0179] Core yarns for comparison: non-crimp yarns A3 and A4
[0180] As non-crimp yarn A3, a multifilament yarn made of nylon 6 with a total fineness of 56 dtex / 17 ends (NY6 56T / 17) is prepared. Furthermore, as non-crimp yarn A4, a multifilament yarn made of nylon 6 with a total fineness of 78 dtex / 24 ends (NY6 78T / 24) is prepared. These yarns A3 and A4 are essentially non-crimped, and the individual fiber fineness of the NY6 long fibers they contain is approximately 3.3 dtex.
[0181] Colored yarn: False twist crimped yarn B1:
[0182] Compared to false-twist crimped yarn A1, cationic dyeable copolymer polyethylene terephthalate (copolymerized with sodium 5-sulfoisophthalate, with a matting agent content of 0.3% by mass and CD) was used instead of SD to change the number of long fibers and the extension ratio. Otherwise, false-twist crimped yarn B1 (PET CD84T72, crimp rate 8%) with a total fineness of 66 dtex / 72 fibers was produced under the same test conditions. The individual fiber fineness of the PET long fibers contained in this yarn B1 is approximately 1.2 dtex.
[0183] Colored yarn: False twist crimped yarn B2
[0184] Polyethylene terephthalate (containing 0.3% by mass of matting agent, full-dull (FD)) was melt-spun at 280°C in a conventional spinning apparatus and drawn at a speed of 2,800 m / min. The yarn was then directly wound without extension to obtain a semi-extended multifilament yarn. The individual fibers of this multifilament yarn have a cross-shaped cross-section. Using a dual-heater false-twist crimping process with a false twist of 2,633 T / m, heater temperatures (160°C for the first heater and 170°C for the second heater), and a yarn speed of 140 m / min, the multifilament yarn underwent simultaneous extension and false-twist crimping. A false-twist crimped yarn B2 (PET FD84T72, crimp rate 9.4%) with a total fineness of 84 dtex / 72 ends was successfully produced. Each PET long fiber in yarn B2 has a fineness of 1.2 dtex and a cross-shaped cross-section.
[0185] Colored yarn: False twist crimped yarn B3
[0186] Polyethylene terephthalate (containing 0.3% by mass of matting agent, fully matte (FD)) was melt-spun at 280°C in a conventional spinning apparatus and drawn at a speed of 2,800 m / min, directly wound without extension to obtain a semi-extended multifilament yarn. The single fibers of this multifilament yarn have a flat cross-sectional shape. Using a dual-heater false-twist crimping process under conditions of 2,633 T / m false twist, heater temperatures (160°C for the first heater, 170°C for the second heater), and a yarn speed of 140 m / min, the multifilament yarn was simultaneously extended and false-twist crimped, and a false-twist crimped yarn B3 (PET FD84T30, crimp rate 2.5%) with a total fineness of 84 dtex / 30 ends was successfully produced. The single fiber fineness of each PET long fiber in yarn B3 is 2.8 dtex, and it has a flat cross-section.
[0187] Comparison objects: Non-crimp yarns B4 and B5
[0188] As non-crimp yarn B4, a commercially available multifilament yarn (84T / 50 rayon) made of rayon with a total fineness of 84 dtex / 50 ends is prepared. The fineness of the individual rayon fibers contained in this yarn B4 is approximately 1.7 dtex. Furthermore, as non-crimp yarn B5, a commercially available multifilament yarn (84T / 24 rayon) made of rayon with a total fineness of 84 dtex / 24 ends is prepared. The fineness of the individual rayon fibers contained in this yarn B5 is 3.5 dtex. The rayon fibers contained in both yarns B4 and B5 are substantially non-crimped.
[0189] As shown in Table 1 below, in combinations where any of yarns A1 to A4 is the core yarn and any of yarns B1 to B5 is the pattern yarn (each of Examples 1 to 9 and Comparative Examples 10 and 11), after steps S1 to S5 of the method for manufacturing moiré yarn when n=4 or more, and excluding the rightmost and leftmost warp loops, the moiré yarn manufactured from each warp loop is used as the moiré yarn of the Examples or Comparative Examples. That is, the tested moiré yarns are all moiré yarns containing one chain-knitted core yarn and multiple pattern yarns held within that core yarn. During this test, the core yarn and pattern yarn were not thermally melted. (The text abruptly ends here.) Figure 14A Example 4 is shown in the figure. Figure 14B Example 5 is shown in the figure. Figure 14C Example 6 is shown in the figure. Figure 14D Example 7 is shown in the figure. Figure 14E Example 8 is shown in the figure. Figure 14F Example 9 is shown in the figure. Figure 14G Comparative Example 10 is shown in the image. Figure 14HThe image shows a microscopic photograph of the moiré yarn of Comparative Example 11. For each moiré yarn tested, the fineness of each long fiber contained in each core yarn and each patterned yarn, and the ratio (height T1 / height T2) of each long fiber contained in the patterned yarn measured by the method described above are expressed in Table 1 below.
[0190] Table 1
[0191]
[0192] For the moiré yarns of each of the prototype Examples 1 to 9 and Comparative Examples 10 and 11, the height T1, height T2 and radius of curvature of each long fiber contained in the patterned yarn were measured, and the spacing between the fixed parts of the patterned yarn in the core yarn was measured and shown in Table 2 below.
[0193] Table 2
[0194]
[0195] For Examples 1 to 9 and Comparative Examples 10 and 11, only the tested moiré yarn was used as the material, and mesh fabrics with the structures shown in Figures 15(a) and 15(b) were tested using common methods. For each tested fabric (textiles composed only of moiré yarn), the unit area weight, fiber shedding rate, air permeability, and heat retention rate were measured using the aforementioned measurement methods and are shown in Table 3 below.
[0196] Table 3
[0197]
[0198] As can be seen from Tables 1 to 3, compared with Comparative Examples 10 and 11, the textiles in Examples 1 to 9 exhibited high heat retention and extremely low fiber shedding rate. Compared with Comparative Example 10, the weight per unit area in Examples 1 to 9 was relatively low (lighter) and had high air permeability.
[0199] Furthermore, for Examples 1 to 9 and Comparative Examples 10 and 11, only the tested moiré yarn was used as the material, and conventional methods were used to test the main components of the yarn. Figure 15A and Figure 15B The seamless shirt (seamless knit) of adult men's size made of the mesh fabric shown (see reference). Figure 15CThese prototype shirts were all lightweight shirts weighing between 200g and 450g. The shirts prototyped using the moiré yarn of Comparative Examples 10 or 11, when worn outdoors in winter, felt similar to the warmth of commercially available shirts made of fleece. On the other hand, the shirts prototyped using the moiré yarn of Examples 1 to 5 and the moiré yarn of Examples 7 to 9, when worn outdoors in winter, felt warmer than commercially available shirts made of fleece.
[0200] Explanation of reference numerals in the attached figures
[0201] 10a, 10b, 10c, 10d, 10e, 10f, 10g: Moer yarn
[0202] 20, 20a, 20b, 20c: Core yarn
[0203] 25, 25a1, 25a2, 25a3, 25b1, 25b2, 25b3, 25c1, 25c2, 25c3: yarn loops
[0204] 30a, 30b, 30c, 30d, 30e, 30f, 30g: Multiple floral yarns
[0205] 31: The first long floral yarn
[0206] 32: Second longest floral yarn
[0207] 33: Various floral yarns; floral yarns
[0208] 34: Long fibers collected
[0209] 35a, 35b: Front end
[0210] 37: Fixing part
[0211] 40: Composite Section
[0212] 50a, 50b, 50c: meridian circles
[0213] D: Spacing between the fixed parts
[0214] L: Cutting width of the floral yarn
[0215] T1, T2: Height of the second longest fiber
[0216] X: Direction along the elongated direction of the moiré yarn
[0217] Y: The direction orthogonal to the elongated direction of the moiré yarn.
Claims
1. A moiré yarn comprising a core yarn and a plurality of patterned yarns held in the core yarn, The core yarn is composed of multiple first long fibers, each of which has a single fiber fineness of 0.3 dtex or more and 5.0 dtex or less. Each yarn contains multiple second long fibers and has a fixed portion that is held in place by the core yarn. The fineness of each second long fiber is 0.3 dtex or more and 8.0 dtex or less. When the elongated direction of the moiré yarn and the long side direction of each patterned yarn are oriented in a horizontal direction, and the straight-line distance between the core yarn and the front end of each second long fiber is set as the height T1 of each second long fiber, and the straight-line distance between the core yarn and the front end of each second long fiber when each second long fiber is stretched in a straight line orthogonal to the elongated direction of the moiré yarn is set as the height T2 of each second long fiber, the ratio of height T1 to height T2, i.e., height T1 / height T2, is 0.88 or more.
2. The molar yarn as described in claim 1, wherein, The core yarn is subjected to false twisting and crimping, with a crimp rate of 3% or more and 40% or less.
3. The molar yarn as described in claim 1 or 2, wherein, The individual yarns are held in the core yarn with the spacing between the fixing parts being 0.5 mm or more and 2.0 mm or less.
4. The molar yarn as described in claim 1 or 2, wherein, Each patterned yarn is held in the core yarn by forming two or more of the fixing portions on each patterned yarn.
5. The molar yarn as described in claim 1 or 2, wherein, Each of the second long fibers has an irregular cross section, and each of the second long fibers is one or more long fibers selected from hollow fibers with a hollow portion formed in the fiber cross section, flat fibers with a generally flat fiber cross section, and false twist crimped fibers with a grooved fiber cross section and a shape that changes along the fiber axis.
6. The molar yarn as described in claim 1 or 2, wherein, The height T1 is above 1.5mm and below 15.0mm.
7. The moiré yarn as described in claim 1 or 2, wherein, At least one of the plurality of first long fibers and the plurality of second long fibers comprises: polyester fibers copolymerized from ester-forming sulfonate metal salt compounds and / or ester-forming sulfonate phosphate salt compounds.
8. The moiré yarn as described in claim 1 or 2, wherein, At least one of the plurality of first long fibers and the plurality of second long fibers contains polyester fibers that have been chemically or materially recycled.
9. The moiré yarn as described in claim 1 or 2, wherein, The total fineness is above 550 dtex and below 1,000 dtex.
10. The moiré yarn as claimed in claim 1 or 2, wherein, The fiber shedding rate is below 0.8%.
11. A textile comprising the molar yarn as described in claim 1 or 2.
12. The textile as claimed in claim 11, wherein, The weight per unit area is 200g / m² 2 Above and 350g / m 2 the following.
13. The textile as claimed in claim 11, wherein, The time for the diffusible residual moisture content to reach below 10% is less than 80 minutes.
14. The textile as claimed in claim 11, wherein, Breathability is 100cc / (cm) 2 . seconds) or more.
15. A garment product comprising the textile as described in claim 11.
Citation Information
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