Cosmetic
By combining polyglycerol monofatty acid esters and niacinamide in cosmetics and adding water to optimize the oil-water ratio and form a vesicle structure, the stickiness problem caused by niacinamide is solved, achieving a smooth and non-sticky user experience.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202511107625.2
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-08-23
- Filing Date
- 2025-08-08
- Publication Date
- 2026-03-03
AI Technical Summary
When cosmetics contain niacinamide, increasing its content can lead to a strong sticky feeling after application, affecting the user experience.
Polyglycerol monofatty acid esters are combined with niacinamide and water is added to form a cosmetic formulation. By controlling the number of carbon atoms in the fatty acid esters and the ratio of polyglycerol moiety, the oil-water ratio is optimized, and a vesicle structure is formed to encapsulate the oil and reduce stickiness.
It provides a smooth feel while reducing stickiness, thus enhancing the user experience of cosmetics.
Smart Images

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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] This invention relates to cosmetics. Specifically, this invention relates to cosmetics containing niacinamide. Background Technology
[0002] Niacinamide and other B vitamins are known to be effective for seborrheic dermatitis and eczema, and also have skin cell activating effects. Cosmetics containing niacinamide are known to exist. However, when cosmetics contain niacinamide, they sometimes produce an undesirable sticky feeling after application (e.g., Patent Document 1). Increasing the niacinamide content tends to intensify this stickiness.
[0003] Existing technical documents
[0004] Patent documents
[0005] Patent Document 1: International Publication No. 2021 / 215423 Summary of the Invention
[0006] When aiming to strongly express the effects of niacinamide, increasing its concentration often results in a more pronounced stickiness after application. Therefore, it is essential to suppress the stickiness caused by niacinamide. Additionally, cosmetics generally require a smooth feel upon application.
[0007] The inventors were surprised to discover that cosmetics containing niacinamide and polyglycerol monofatty acid esters are less sticky and provide a smooth feel. This invention is based on these insights.
[0008] According to this disclosure, the following invention is provided.
[0009] [1] A cosmetic product comprising: (A) polyglycerol monofatty acid ester, (B) nicotinamide and (C) water.
[0010] [2] According to the cosmetic described in [1], the number of carbon atoms in the fatty acid portion of the polyglycerol monofatty acid ester is 12 or more and 17 or less.
[0011] [3] The cosmetic according to [1] or [2], wherein the polyglycerol portion of the polyglycerol monofatty acid ester is more than a dimer and less than a decamer.
[0012] [4] The cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [3], wherein component (A) is polyglycerol-6 lauryl ester or polyglycerol-6 myristate ester.
[0013] [5] The cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [4], wherein the content of ingredient (A) is 0.1% by mass or more and 10% by mass or less relative to the total amount of the cosmetic.
[0014] [6] The cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [5], wherein the content of ingredient (B) is 0.1% by mass or more and 10% by mass or less relative to the total amount of the cosmetic.
[0015] [7] The cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [6], wherein, relative to the total amount of the cosmetic, the oil content of (D) is 0% by mass or more and 40% by mass or less.
[0016] [8] The cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [7] is a water-based cosmetic or an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic.
[0017] According to the present invention, cosmetics with excellent user experience can be provided. In particular, cosmetics that provide a smooth feel and are less sticky can be provided. Detailed Implementation
[0018] This invention relates to cosmetics comprising (A) polyglycerol monofatty acid esters, (B) niacinamide and (C) water.
[0019] (A) Polyglycerol monofatty acid esters
[0020] Polyglycerol monofatty acid esters are esters formed from fatty acids and polyglycerol. Here, polyglycerol is formed by dehydrating and polymerizing multiple glycerol molecules in series, thereby bonding multiple glycerol molecules together. For example, polyglycerol-6 laurate is an ester formed from polyglycerol-6 (6 glycerol molecules bonded in series) and 1 lauric acid. In polyglycerol monofatty acid esters, the portion derived from fatty acids is called the fatty acid moiety, and the portion derived from polyglycerol is called the polyglycerol moiety. The fatty acid moiety is lipophilic, and the polyglycerol moiety is hydrophilic. Polyglycerol monofatty acid esters can optionally form vesicles in cosmetics that encapsulate other ingredients as bilayer closed structures. The bilayer of the vesicles can retain oil content.
[0021] The number of carbon atoms in the fatty acid portion of the polyglycerol monofatty acid ester is preferably 12 or more, 13 or more, or 14 or more, and more preferably 17 or less, 16 or less, or 15 or less. The fatty acid can be a saturated fatty acid or an unsaturated fatty acid, and can also be a straight-chain fatty acid or a branched-chain fatty acid. Examples of such fatty acids include lauric acid, myristic acid, and palmitic acid. Lauric acid or myristic acid is preferred as the fatty acid.
[0022] The polyglycerol portion of the polyglycerol monofatty acid ester is preferably a dimer or more, a trimer or more, or a tetramer or more. In addition, it is preferably a decamer or less, a nonamer or less, an octamer or less, a heptomer or less, or a hexamer or less.
[0023] The OH / C ratio of the polyglycerol monofatty acid ester is preferably 0.20 or more, 0.25 or more, 0.30 or more, 0.35 or more, 0.40 or more, 0.45 or more, or 0.50 or more; and preferably 0.80 or less, 0.75 or less, 0.70 or less, 0.65 or less, or 0.60 or less. Polyglycerol monofatty acid esters with such OH / C ratios can improve the solubilizing ability of oil in vesicles when they form vesicles, and are therefore preferred.
[0024] In this disclosure, the "OH / C ratio" refers to the ratio of the number of hydroxyl groups in the polyglycerol portion to the number of carbon atoms in the fatty acid portion. The OH / C ratio is also a parameter related to the balance between hydrophilicity and lipophilicity. For example, in the case of polyglycerol-6 laurate, the fatty acid portion has 12 carbon atoms. Furthermore, the polyglycerol portion is a hexamer, in which case there are 7 hydroxyl groups (=6+1). Therefore, the OH / C ratio of polyglycerol-6 laurate is 0.58 (=7 / 12). In the case of polyglycerol-6 myristate, the fatty acid portion has 14 carbon atoms. Furthermore, the polyglycerol portion is a hexamer, in which case there are 7 hydroxyl groups (=6+1). Therefore, the OH / C ratio of polyglycerol-6 laurate is 0.50 (=7 / 14).
[0025] Examples of polyglycerol monofatty acid esters include polyglycerol-6 myristate, polyglycerol-2 laurate, polyglycerol-4 laurate, polyglycerol-5 laurate, polyglycerol-6 laurate, and polyglycerol-10 palmitate. Polyglycerol-6 laurate or polyglycerol-6 myristate is preferred as a polyglycerol monofatty acid ester.
[0026] (A) The content of polyglycerol monofatty acid esters relative to the total amount of cosmetics may be more than 0.1% by mass, more than 0.2% by mass, more than 0.3% by mass, or more than 0.4% by mass. Alternatively, it may be less than 10% by mass, less than 5.0% by mass, less than 3.0% by mass, or less than 1.2% by mass.
[0027] Generally speaking, as the content of ingredient (B) increases, there is a tendency for the product to become sticky. However, in the cosmetic of the present invention, by including ingredient (A), the stickiness of the cosmetic can be suppressed even when the content of ingredient (B) increases.
[0028] (B) Nicotinamide
[0029] The cosmetic of this invention contains (B) niacinamide. Niacinamide, also known as Nicotinamide or Niacinamide, is a derivative of niacin and is an amide compound of niacin (vitamin B3 / nicotinic acid). Niacinamide is a water-soluble vitamin and a known substance belonging to the vitamin B group. It can be extracted from natural products (such as rice bran) or synthesized using known methods.
[0030] The content of (B) niacinamide in the cosmetic of the present invention can be more than 0.1% by mass, more than 1% by mass, or more than 3% by mass relative to the total mass of the cosmetic, and can be less than 10% by mass or less than 7% by mass.
[0031] (C) Water
[0032] The cosmetic of the present invention comprises (C) water. The water used in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, etc., can be, for example, purified water, ion-exchanged water, tap water, etc. The water content relative to the total amount of the cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 40% by mass or more or 50% by mass or more, and preferably 95% by mass or less or 90% by mass or less.
[0033] (D)Oil content
[0034] In addition to (A) to (C), the cosmetic of the present invention may also contain (D) oil. In such cases, the cosmetic of the present invention is usually in the form of an oil-in-water cosmetic or an oil-in-water cosmetic, but it may also be a double-layer cosmetic that separates into two layers when left to stand.
[0035] (D) As an oil component, examples include ester oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, liquid oils, solid oils, and semi-solid oils. Ester oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and higher alcohols are preferred. One or more components (D) may be used. In the case of a water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic, the content of component (D) relative to the total amount of the cosmetic is preferably 0.5% by mass or more or 1% by mass or more, preferably 40% by mass or less or 30% by mass or less. Furthermore, in the case of a water-based cosmetic, the content of component (D) is preferably 0% by mass or more and 1% by mass or less.
[0036] Examples of ester oils include octyl caprylate, nonyl nonanoate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl myristate, octyl dodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, hexyl decyl dimethyl octanoate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, acetylated lanolin, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl isostearate, cholesterol 12-hydroxystearate, bis(2-ethylhexanoate) glycol ester, dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester, N-alkyl diol monoisostearate, neopentyl glycol didecanoate, tripropylene glycol tervamolate, diisostearate malate, glyceryl dihexyl undecanoate, glyceryl diisostearate, trimethylolpropane tri(2-ethylhexanoate), trimethylolpropane triisostearate, and quaternary amylase. Pentylenetetra(2-ethylhexanoate), glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl triisopalmitate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tri(2-heptylundecanoate), methyl castor oil, oleyl oleate, acetylglycine, 2-heptylundecyl palmitate, diisobutyl adipate, N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid-2-octyldodecyl ester, di(heptylundecyl)adipate, ethyl laurate, di(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, 2-hexyldecyl myristate, 2-hexyldecyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, triethyl citrate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, phytosterol macadamia oleate, etc.
[0037] Examples of silicone oils include chain polysiloxanes (e.g., polydimethylsiloxane, diphenylsiloxyphenyl polytrimethylsiloxane, diphenyl polysiloxane, etc.), cyclic polysiloxanes (e.g., octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecylcyclohexylsiloxane, etc.), organosilicon resins forming a three-dimensional network structure, silicone rubber, various modified polysiloxanes (amino-modified polysiloxanes, polyether-modified polysiloxanes, alkyl-modified polysiloxanes, fluorinated polysiloxanes, etc.), acrylic organosilicones, etc., with chain polysiloxanes being preferred.
[0038] Examples of hydrocarbon oils include isododecane, isohexadecane, isoparaffins, mineral oil (liquid paraffin), ceresin, squalane, squalane, paraffin wax, pure ceresin, squalene, petrolatum, microcrystalline wax, and hydrogenated polydecene.
[0039] Examples of high-grade fatty acids include lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, undecenoic acid, tall oil, isostearic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA).
[0040] Examples of higher alcohols include straight-chain alcohols (e.g., lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, etc.) and branched-chain alcohols (e.g., lanolin alcohol, cholesterol, phytosterol, hexyldodecyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecyl alcohol, etc.).
[0041] Examples of liquid oils include avocado oil, camellia seed oil, macadamia seed oil, corn oil, olive fruit oil, rapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil, camellia seed oil, castor seed oil, linseed oil, safflower seed oil, cottonseed oil, perilla seed oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, torreya seed oil, rice bran oil, tung oil, Japanese tung oil, jojoba seed oil, germ oil, and triglycerides. Examples of solid oils include cocoa butter, coconut oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, oil palm oil, oil palm kernel oil, hydrogenated oil palm oil, Japanese wax kernel oil, hydrogenated oil, lacquer fruit wax, and hydrogenated castor oil. Examples of semi-solid oils include shea butter, partially hydrogenated coconut oil, and partially hydrogenated jojoba seed oil.
[0042] In addition, the cosmetics of the present invention may further contain polyols.
[0043] Examples of polyols include glycerin, ethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butanediol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, and polybutylene glycol. Dipropylene glycol or 1,3-butanediol is preferred. Polyols can be used alone or in combination of two or more. Not limited to these, the content of polyols relative to the total amount in the cosmetic is preferably 1% by mass or more, 2% by mass or more, or 5% by mass or more, and preferably 30% by mass or less, 25% by mass or less, or 20% by mass or less.
[0044] In addition, the cosmetics of the present invention may also contain thickeners.
[0045] Examples of thickeners include:
[0046] (i) Water-soluble thickeners, such as gum arabic, tragacanth gum, galactomannan, sophora japonica gum, guar gum, ark tartar gum, carrageenan gum, pectin, agar, quince seeds (quince), seaweed extract (brown algae extract) and other plant-based polymers; dextran, succinyl dextran, budding stalk polysaccharide, xanthan gum and other microbial polymers; collagen, casein, albumin, gelatin and other animal-based polymers; methylcellulose, nitrocellulose, ethylcellulose, methyl hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, etc. Cellulose-based polymers such as sodium cellulose sulfate, hydroxypropyl cellulose, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, crystalline cellulose, and cellulose powder; alginate-based polymers such as sodium alginate and propylene glycol alginate; vinyl-based polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl methyl ether, polyvinylpyrrolidone, and carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomer); polyoxyethylene-based polymers such as hydrophobically modified polyether urethane; acrylic-based polymers such as sodium polyacrylate, ethyl polyacrylate, and polyacrylamide; polyethyleneimine; and cationic polymers.
[0047] (ii) Inorganic water-soluble polymers, such as bentonite, magnesium aluminum silicate, lithium saponite, hydropyrite, anhydrous silica, etc. Thickeners can be used alone or in combination of two or more.
[0048] The content of thickener relative to the total amount of cosmetics is preferably 0.01% by mass or more, 0.05% by mass or more, or 0.1% by mass or more, and preferably 1.5% by mass or less, 1.0% by mass or less, or 0.8% by mass or less.
[0049] Furthermore, the cosmetic of the present invention may also contain surfactants. The type of surfactant is arbitrary, but anionic surfactants are preferred. It should be noted that, in the present invention, component (A) is not included in the surfactants described herein.
[0050] Examples of anionic surfactants include N-acyl amino acid salts and N-acylmethyl taurate salts. Specifically, examples include N-acylglutamate salts such as potassium cocoylglutamate, N-acyl-N-methyl-β-alanine salts, N-acylsarcosinate salts, sodium N-cocoyl taurate, sodium N-cocoyl-N-methyl taurate, sodium N-lauroyl-N-methyl taurate, sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyl taurate, sodium N-cocoate-N-methyl taurate, triethanolamine N-cocoate-N-methyl taurate, triethanolamine N-palmitoyl-N-ethyl taurate, magnesium N-cocoyl taurate, magnesium N-cocoyl-N-methyl taurate, magnesium N-lauroyl-N-methyl taurate, magnesium N-lauroyl-N-methyl taurate, and magnesium N-cocoate-N-methyl taurate. Sodium cocoyl methyl taurate and sodium N-stearoyl-N-methyl taurate are preferred. Anionic surfactants can be used alone or in combination of two or more.
[0051] The content of anionic surfactants relative to the total amount of cosmetics is preferably 0.01% by mass or more, 0.03% by mass or more, 0.05% by mass or more, or 0.07% by mass or more, and preferably 1.0% by mass or less, 0.7% by mass or less, 0.5% by mass or less, or 0.3% by mass or less.
[0052] In addition to the ingredients described above, the cosmetics of this invention can incorporate any ingredients commonly used in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. These ingredients include, for example, surfactants, moisturizers, lower alcohols, metal ion chelating agents, neutralizing agents, pH adjusters, antioxidants, preservatives, chemical reagents, ultraviolet absorbers, powder components, and (daily) fragrances. As long as the effects of this invention are achieved, one or more of these ingredients can be incorporated into the cosmetics.
[0053] The dosage form of the cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, but it is preferably formed as a water-based cosmetic or an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic. In water-based cosmetics or oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics, the aqueous phase comes into contact with the skin first, thus giving the skin a moisturizing feel and allowing the effects of the present invention to be felt more realistically. In addition, when the cosmetic of the present invention is a water-based cosmetic, a refreshing feeling can also be obtained.
[0054] Examples of cosmetics according to the present invention include skincare cosmetics (e.g., toners, lotions, creams, serums, masks, skincare masks, etc.), makeup cosmetics (e.g., foundations, makeup bases, etc.), skin cleansers (e.g., facial cleansers, makeup removers, etc.), and sunscreen cosmetics. It should be noted that these forms are merely examples, and the cosmetics described in this invention are not limited to these forms.
[0055] Furthermore, the cosmetics of the present invention can be manufactured using conventional methods.
[0056] [Example]
[0057] The invention will be specifically described based on the following examples, but the invention is not limited to these examples. Unless otherwise stated, the content is expressed as a percentage of mass relative to the total amount.
[0058] [Refer to Examples 1-2, Examples 1-3, and Comparative Examples 1-3]
[0059] Aqueous cosmetics were prepared using the formulations shown in Table 1 for Reference Examples 1-2, Examples 1-3, and Comparative Examples 1-3.
[0060] [Usability Evaluation 1: Smoothness]
[0061] Five professional reviewers applied the prepared cosmetics to their skin and evaluated their usability based on the following criteria regarding smoothness during application. Smoothness during application refers to the absence of a sticky or residue-like feel on the skin. The results are recorded in Table 1.
[0062] A: All 5 members rated it as unchanged compared to the benchmark.
[0063] B: 1-2 ratings indicate that the product felt stuck during application compared to the baseline.
[0064] C: 3 or more ratings indicate that the product felt stuck during application compared to the baseline.
[0065] [Usability Evaluation 2: Stickiness]
[0066] Five professional reviewers applied the prepared cosmetics to their skin and evaluated the presence or absence of stickiness after application. The results are recorded in Table 1.
[0067] A: All 5 members rated it as unchanged compared to the benchmark.
[0068] B: 1-2 ratings indicate that the product felt sticky after application compared to the baseline.
[0069] C: 3 or more ratings indicate that the product feels sticky after application compared to the benchmark.
[0070] [Usability Evaluation 3: Refreshing Feel]
[0071] Five professional reviewers applied the prepared cosmetics to their skin and evaluated the refreshing feeling after application. The results are recorded in Table 1.
[0072] A: All 5 members rated it as unchanged compared to the benchmark.
[0073] B: 1-2 ratings indicate that the product did not feel refreshing after application compared to the baseline.
[0074] C: 3 or more ratings indicate that the product does not feel refreshing after application compared to the baseline.
[0075] In usability evaluations 1-3, Reference Example 1, which contained component (A) but not component (B), was compared and evaluated with Examples 1-3, which contained component (A) and component (B) at different concentrations. Additionally, Reference Example 2, which contained PPG-13-decyltetradecyl alcohol polyether-24 instead of component (A) but not component (B), was compared and evaluated with Comparative Examples 1-3, which contained PPG-13-decyltetradecyl alcohol polyether-24 and component (B) at different concentrations. The results are shown in Table 1.
[0076] [Table 1]
[0077]
[0078] [Refer to Examples 3-4, Examples 4-9, and Comparative Examples 4-11]
[0079] Using the formulations shown in Tables 2 and 3, water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics were prepared for Reference Examples 3-4, Examples 4-9, and Comparative Examples 4-11. Since Examples 4-9 and Comparative Examples 4-11 are emulsified cosmetics, their usability was evaluated using usability evaluation criteria 1 and 2, excluding the refreshing sensation, as used in Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3. The results are recorded in Tables 2 and 3.
[0080] For usability evaluations 1 and 2, Reference Example 3, which contains component (A) but not component (B), was compared and evaluated with Examples 4-9, which contain component (A) and component (B) at different concentrations. Additionally, Reference Example 3 was compared and evaluated with Comparative Example 4, which contains component (A) but contains more component (B) than Examples 4-9. Furthermore, Reference Example 3 was compared and evaluated with Comparative Examples 5 and 6, which contain component (A) and, instead of component (B), contain ascorbic acid as a salt-type agent. The results are shown in Table 2. Here, a salt-type agent refers to a water-soluble agent capable of forming a salt. In cosmetics, generally, the higher the concentration of a salt-type agent, the more likely it is to produce a sticky residue.
[0081] Furthermore, for usability evaluations 1 and 2, Reference Example 4, which contains PEG-6 distearate instead of component (A) but does not contain component (B), was compared and evaluated with Comparative Examples 7-9, which contain PEG-6 distearate and component (B) at different concentrations. Furthermore, Reference Example 4 was compared and evaluated with Comparative Examples 10 and 11, which contain PEG-6 distearate and ascorbic acid instead of component (B) at different concentrations. The results are shown in Table 3.
[0082] [Table 2]
[0083]
[0084] [Table 3]
[0085]
Claims
1. A cosmetic product comprising: (A) Polyglycerol monofatty acid esters, (B) Nicotinamide, and (C) Water.
2. The cosmetic product according to claim 1, wherein, The number of carbon atoms in the fatty acid portion of the polyglycerol monofatty acid ester is 12 or more and 17 or less.
3. The cosmetic product according to claim 1 or 2, wherein, The polyglycerol portion of the polyglycerol monofatty acid ester is more than a dimer and less than a decamer.
4. The cosmetic product according to claim 1 or 2, wherein, (A) The ingredient is polyglycerol-6 lauryl ester or polyglycerol-6 myristate ester.
5. The cosmetic product according to claim 1 or 2, wherein, The content of ingredient (A) relative to the total amount of cosmetics is more than 0.1% by mass and less than 10% by mass.
6. The cosmetic product according to claim 1 or 2, wherein, The content of ingredient (B) relative to the total amount of cosmetics is more than 0.1% by mass and less than 10% by mass.
7. The cosmetic product according to claim 1 or 2, wherein, Relative to the total amount of cosmetics, (D) oil content is between 0% and 40% by mass.
8. The cosmetic product according to claim 1 or 2, wherein it is a water-based cosmetic product or an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic product.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Cosmetic preparation
WO2021215423A1