Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising fatty acid monoester, neutralized anionic surfactant, vp / eicosene copolymer, semi-crystalline polymer, latex, filler and polyol

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: (1) at least one linear fatty acid monoester of the following formula (I): wherein R1 and R2 are linear and saturated and independently of each other have a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20, representing an acyl group and an alkyl group, and (2) at least one anionic surfactant, and (3) at least one base capable of partially or completely neutralizing said anionic surfactant, and (4) at least one vinyl pyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer, and (5) at least one semi-crystalline polymer, and (6) an aqueous phase, and (7) at least one film-forming polymer in the form of solid particles suspended in the aqueous phase; and (8) at least one water absorption volume lt measured by the wet point method at 25 DEG C; 200 mL / 100 g of a filler; and (9) at least one water-soluble liquid polyol.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of keratin materials for care and / or cosmetic purposes, and aims to provide compositions more particularly intended for use in cosmetic eyelashes or eyebrows.

[0002] Generally, compositions designed for use with cosmetic keratin fibers (such as eyelashes) aim to enhance the thickness and visual perception of eyelashes, ultimately improving the makeup effect. When these mascaras are formulated in an aqueous base, they are described as water-based or cream mascaras, and when they are formulated as dispersions in an organic solvent medium, they are described as waterless mascaras.

[0003] Applying mascara to keratin fibers, especially eyelashes, can provide a variety of cosmetic effects, such as thickening, lengthening, and, more specifically, volumizing.

[0004] These effects are primarily regulated by the quantity and nature of the particles present in the mascara, and most specifically by the quantity and nature of the wax. Generally speaking, mascara actually contains a significant amount of wax, and more commonly, 10% to 35% by weight relative to its total weight, and more often 15% to 30% by weight.

[0005] For obvious reasons, improving the texture of mascara, which determines one or more makeup effects, has always been a top priority for cosmetic formulators.

[0006] Furthermore, it is expected that all production batches of the same formula will reproduce the unique effects associated with a specific formula in almost identical form, such as volume and, in addition, excellent separation of the mascara.

[0007] Therefore, in order to meet these expectations and / or goals, it is necessary to be able to precisely adjust the texture of the mascara and to reproduce it as faithfully as possible batch by batch, which need not be produced at the same time, but are identical in terms of ingredients, and therefore necessarily provide the same makeup effect in theory. Background Technology

[0008] However, as explained above, most currently available mascaras are formulated with large amounts of wax. In fact, as detailed in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, 2015, Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim, 10.1002 / 14356007.a28.pub2, most waxes are not composed of a single compound, but rather of complex mixtures. They can be mixtures of oligomers and / or polymers, and in many cases, these oligomers and / or polymers also have different molar masses, different molar mass distributions, and different degrees of branching. Thus, polar waxes are typically composed of mixtures of alkanes, fatty alcohols, and fatty esters, with aliphatic chain lengths varying according to melting point.

[0009] Therefore, it is difficult for manufacturers of these waxes to guarantee that the composition of all production batches is strictly identical. More specifically, there may be variability in the chemical properties of some of the constituent compounds between different production batches of the same wax. Similarly, the proportions of some of the constituent compounds may also differ between production batches.

[0010] For obvious reasons, these variability have a significant impact on the properties of wax, and therefore on the properties of mascaras containing a large amount of this wax. Thus, two mascara formulations with the same composition and therefore produced in the same quantity from the same conventional wax may differ in the rheological properties of the deposits on keratin fibers, and therefore in texture and mechanical properties such as resistance to peeling (the presence of particles, also known as flakes), if they were produced from two separate production batches of this wax.

[0011] Therefore, the use of conventional waxes in mascara compositions (especially in large quantities) does not guarantee to users that the finely tuned and identical rheological and mechanical properties, such as peel resistance, of the product's deposits on keratin fibers will be reproduced in all mascara samples of the same composition.

[0012] In patent applications FR 3080034, EP 3781118, EP 3897859, EP3897558, and EP 3897519, aqueous compositions, particularly mascaras, are proposed, comprising at least one fatty acid monoester such as betaine, at least one fatty acid containing 14 to less than 20 carbon atoms, at least one base capable of at least partially neutralizing the fatty acid, and pigments, particularly iron oxide. However, these compositions are not entirely satisfactory in terms of the stability of their consistency over time, particularly within several days, depending on temperature changes.

[0013] Aqueous mascaras containing betaine, fatty acids, neutralizing bases, semi-crystalline polymers, fatty alcohols, and non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils are known in patent FR 3090334.

[0014] Thermosetting mascara comprising a semi-crystalline polymer and a sulfonated polyester resin is proposed in patent FR 2853528.

[0015] Patent application US 2015 / 174056 discloses an emulsion-type cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers, comprising an aqueous phase, at least one wax, an emulsion system, at least one film-forming polymer present in a dry matter content of greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and at least one organic, preferably polymeric, lipophilic gelling agent, wherein the wax and the emulsion system are present in corresponding total amounts such that the weight ratio of wax to emulsion system is less than or equal to 1. Example 2 and the comparative example are compositions comprising 5.5% conventional wax, VP / eicosene copolymer, pigment, and stearic acid neutralized with triethanolamine.

[0016] Water-based mascara is known on the market. - Be Bold Colar Mascara (Mintel ID 5676593), a commercial product containing betaine, neutral stearic acid, wax, and black iron oxide; - SuperDrama Volumizing & Lengthening Waterproof Mascara (Mintel ID 20600879), a commercial product from Avon, containing betaine, neutral stearic acid, wax, and black iron oxide. - Stunning Extra Lush Mascara (Mintel ID 8372591), a commercial product from Ying Te LI Cosmetics, containing betaine, alkali-neutralized cetyl phosphate, wax, black iron oxide, and vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer.

[0017] US Patent 8932573 discloses aqueous compositions based on semi-crystalline polymers, silicone elastomer gels, and hydrophilic gelling agents of the polyacrylamide dimethyl taurate type. Examples describe mascaras containing vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymers, stearic acid, a large amount of conventional waxes, and iron oxide.

[0018] Therefore, a first object of the present invention is to provide mascara compositions that, firstly, result in a smoother deposition on keratinous materials such as eyelashes, leading to the absence of particles after product application, and secondly, to provide a longer application time, referred to by the term "operation time." Application time is particularly important, especially in terms of user comfort. In particular, a longer application time allows the user more time to complete her makeup without having to reapply the product several times to the keratinous material.

[0019] A second object of the present invention is to provide a means of obtaining mascara compositions whose consistency becomes more stable over time, especially over several days, depending on temperature changes.

[0020] A third object of the present invention is to provide a means of obtaining mascara compositions whose texture characteristics are finely tuned and reproducible.

[0021] A fourth object of the present invention is to provide a means of obtaining a mascara composition in which the mechanical properties of the product deposited on keratin fibers, such as peel resistance, are finely tuned and reproducible.

[0022] Another object of the present invention is to provide a mascara structure produced using a single-component ingredient in a major weight proportion. Using a single-component ingredient predominantly advantageously eliminates the risk of compositional variability that may exist between several production batches of multi-component ingredients, and thus eliminates its impact on the final properties of the mascara.

[0023] Another object of the present invention is to provide a mascara structure that enables a significant reduction or even elimination of the use of wax, while still providing a very satisfactory makeup effect.

[0024] In the course of their research, the inventors have unexpectedly discovered that these objectives, as previously defined, can be achieved by using a composition, particularly contained in a physiologically acceptable medium: At least one straight-chain fatty acid monoester of formula (I): [Chemical Formula 1] (I) R1 and R2 are straight-chain and saturated, and each independently has 20 or more carbon atoms, where R1 represents an acyl group and R2 represents an alkyl group. At least one anionic surfactant, and At least one base capable of partially or completely neutralizing the anionic surfactant, and At least one vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer, and At least one semi-crystalline polymer, and Aqueous phase, and At least one film-forming polymer in the form of solid particles suspended in the aqueous phase; and At least one filler with a water absorption capacity of <200 mL / 100 g measured by wet-point method at 25°C; and At least one water-soluble liquid polyol.

[0025] In an unexpected way, the inventors have actually discovered that formulations comprising at least one linear fatty acid monoester (1), at least one anionic surfactant (2) in the form of being partially or completely neutralized with an alkali (3), at least one vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer (4), at least one semi-crystalline polymer (5), an aqueous phase (6), at least one film-forming polymer (7) in the form of solid particles suspended in the aqueous phase (6), at least one filler (8) with a water absorption capacity of <200 mL / 100 g, and at least one polyol (9) allow for the formation of a smoother deposit after application to keratin materials such as eyelashes, resulting in no particles on said keratin material and a longer product application time (operation time).

[0026] Furthermore, in terms of reproducibility, the consistency and mechanical properties of the formulation deposited on keratin fibers can be finely tuned and guaranteed.

[0027] As will be seen below, these new compositions are advantageous in several respects.

[0028] First, unlike most conventional waxes (such as natural waxes and some synthetic waxes) which are usually multi-component or even have an indefinite number of compounds, the compounds (1) to (9) required according to the present invention are all as single compounds, single-component compounds or compounds with a definite number of components.

[0029] These two special characteristics are particularly advantageous because they enable the elimination of the risk of variability regarding their respective compositions.

[0030] As can be seen from the following examples, compositions based on the present invention and using compound (1) as a texturer have proven to be very satisfactory in terms of cosmetic effects.

[0031] Therefore, the compositions according to the invention can have a creamy texture that has been proven to be finely tunable by using the desired combination according to the invention.

[0032] These properties are obtained under the condition of using compounds (1) to (9), and therefore advantageously do not require the presence of additional wax, especially large amounts of wax.

[0033] Therefore, the compositions according to the invention advantageously contain less than 5% of the wax as defined below.

[0034] The term "wax" refers to a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), exhibits a reversible solid / liquid state change, and has a melting point greater than or equal to 40°C, which can reach up to 120°C.

[0035] For the purposes of this invention, the waxes involved in the above-mentioned quantity restrictions are different from those that may be embodied by components of fatty acid monoesters (1) and fatty alcohol type additives required according to this invention.

[0036] This discovery forms the basis of this invention. Summary of the Invention

[0037] Therefore, according to one aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, which comprises, in particular, a physiologically acceptable medium: At least one straight-chain fatty acid monoester of formula (I): [Chemical Formula 1] (I) R1 and R2 are straight-chain and saturated, and each independently has 20 or more carbon atoms, where R1 represents an acyl group and R2 represents an alkyl group. At least one anionic surfactant, and At least one base capable of partially or completely neutralizing the anionic surfactant, and At least one vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer, and At least one semi-crystalline polymer, and Aqueous phase, and At least one film-forming polymer in the form of solid particles suspended in the aqueous phase; and At least one filler with a water absorption capacity of <200 mL / 100 g measured by wet-point method at 25°C; and At least one water-soluble liquid polyol.

[0038] A second subject of the invention is a cosmetic method for applying makeup and / or caring for human keratin materials such as skin, particularly the area around the eyes, eyelashes, and eyebrows; keratin fibers, such as eyelashes and eyebrows, the method comprising applying a composition as previously defined to said keratin materials.

[0039] definition In the context of this invention, the term "keratin material" specifically refers to skin, particularly the skin around the eyelashes and eyebrows; keratin fibers, such as eyelashes and eyebrows. For the purposes of this invention, the term "keratin fiber" is also extended to synthetic false eyelashes.

[0040] The term “physiologically acceptable” means that it is compatible with skin and / or its coverings, has a pleasant color, smell and feel, and does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (tingling or tightness) that would easily prevent a consumer from using the composition.

[0041] According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a method, particularly a cosmetic method for caring for and / or applying keratin materials, especially the skin around eyelashes, the skin around eyebrows, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, the method comprising at least one step including applying said keratin material, especially eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0042] The term "particulate matter" means any compound that is insoluble and dispersible in particulate form in the compositions of the present invention.

[0043] The term "filler" should be understood to mean any form of colorless or white solid particles in an insoluble form dispersed in the medium of the composition.

[0044] Fatty acid monoesters The compositions according to the present invention comprise at least one linear fatty acid monoester.

[0045] The compositions according to the invention may contain at least 5.0% by weight, preferably at least 6.0% by weight, and even more preferably at least 7.0% by weight, of straight-chain fatty acid monoesters relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid monoester is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 6.0% to 35.0% by weight, preferably from 7.0% to 30.0% by weight, or even more preferably from 8.0% to 28.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] The straight-chain fatty acid monoester (1) considered according to the present invention corresponds to the following formula (I): [Chemical Formula 1] (I) R1 and R2 are straight-chain and saturated, and each has 20 or more carbon atoms independently of the other, where R1 represents an acyl group and R2 represents an alkyl group.

[0048] These or these fatty acid monoesters are used in the preparation of the compositions according to the invention either in a single form or as a mixture containing only straight-chain fatty acid monoesters of formula (I).

[0049] In a preferred embodiment, the fatty acid monoester has a melting point above 50°C.

[0050] Melting point can be measured by any known method, and in particular by differential scanning calorimeter (DSC).

[0051] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the acyl and alkyl groups representing R1 and R2 are selected such that compound (I) is a solid at a temperature below or equal to 30°C.

[0052] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, R1 and R2 are acyl and alkyl groups having a carbon number ranging from 20 to 30, preferably 20 to 24, respectively.

[0053] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, R1 and R2 are acyl and alkyl groups having the same number of carbon atoms, respectively.

[0054] In particular, the fatty acid monoesters according to the present invention are selected from arachidic acid arachidic acid ester and betaine ester.

[0055] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the straight-chain fatty acid monoester is betaine.

[0056] The benzyl esters suitable for use in the compositions according to the invention can be, in particular, Kester Wax K-72® sold by Koster Keunen, DubBB® sold by Stéarinerie Dubois, or DermowaxBB® sold by Alzo.

[0057] Anionic surfactants As explained above, the fatty acid monoester (1) used according to the present invention is combined with at least one anionic surfactant that is partially or completely neutralized with a base (3).

[0058] For the purposes of this invention, the term "surfactant" refers to an amphiphilic compound, that is, a compound having two parts in its structure with different polarities. Typically, one part is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oil phase), and the other part is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Surfactants are characterized by their HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) value, which is the ratio of the hydrophilic portion to the lipophilic portion in the molecule. The term "HLB" is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB System: A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc.; 1984).

[0059] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant according to the invention has an HLB of 8 or greater. The HLB of the anionic surfactant used according to the invention can be determined by the Griffin method.

[0060] The term "anionic surfactant" refers to any negatively charged amphiphilic molecule.

[0061] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the anionic surfactant is present in a content ranging from 3.5% to 20.0% by weight, more preferably from 4.0% to 20.0% by weight, even more preferably from 4.5% to 15.0% by weight, and even more preferably from 5.0% to 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0062] The anionic surfactant according to the present invention is preferably selected from: i. C12-C20 monoalkyl esters of phosphate; ii. Alkyl sulfates, and in particular alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amide ether sulfates, alkyl aryl polyether sulfates, and monoglyceride sulfates; iii. Alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, and alkane sulfonates; iv. Alkyl sulfosuccinate, alkyl ether sulfosuccinate, alkyl amide sulfosuccinate; alkyl sulfosuccinate; v. Acylsarcosinate, acylglutamate, acyl hydroxyethanesulfonate, N-acyl taurate, and acyl lactate; vi. Fatty acids containing 14 or more than 20 carbon atoms; vii. Their mixture.

[0063] According to a particular form of the invention, the anionic surfactant is selected from: - C12-C20 monoalkyl esters of phosphate; - Fatty acids containing at least 14 or more carbon atoms; - A mixture of them.

[0064] More specifically, fatty acids containing 14 to 20 carbon atoms will be used.

[0065] a) C12-C20 monoalkyl esters of phosphate Unless otherwise stated, the term "monoalkyl" means that the phosphate ester element is linked to a single C12-C20 alkyl chain. Monoalkyl phosphates (including phosphine oxides) that may be used in the compositions according to this patent application are selected from C14-C20 phosphates, and preferably C16-C18 monoalkyl esters and mixtures thereof.

[0066] Preferably, they are selected from monocetyl phosphate, monostearic acid phosphate and monocetearic acid phosphate.

[0067] Specifically, an anionic surfactant, which is neutralized with potassium hydroxide (KOH), will be used, namely the potassium salt of monocetyl phosphate with the INCI name cetyl phosphate, such as Amphisol K® (DSM Nutritional Products), Amphisol A® (DSM Nutritional Products), ArlatoneMAP® (Uniqema), and CrodafosMCA® (Croda).

[0068] b) Fatty acids containing 14 or more carbon atoms The fatty acids according to the invention contain 14 to at least 20 carbon atoms. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the fatty acids contain 16 to at least 20 carbon atoms. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the number of carbon atoms ranges from 16 to 18.

[0069] In particular, the fatty acids according to the present invention are selected from straight-chain fatty acids, saturated fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0070] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the fatty acids of the ionic surfactant are linear and saturated.

[0071] According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid is selected from palmitic acid, stearic acid and mixtures thereof, and preferably includes at least stearic acid with the INCI name stearic acid.

[0072] Therefore, according to another embodiment of the invention, the composition uses a mixture of C16-C18 fatty acids, preferably a mixture of fatty acids containing 16 carbon atoms (such as palmitic acid) and fatty acids containing 18 carbon atoms (such as stearic acid) as fatty acids (2).

[0073] Preferred stearic acid for use in this invention is, for example, stearic acid 1850® sold by Southern Acids or Stearine TP 1200 Pastils® (DUB 50P®) sold by Stéarinerie Dubois.

[0074] alkali The composition according to the invention comprises at least one base (3). The base may be organic or inorganic.

[0075] According to the first variant, base (3) is at least one organic base.

[0076] Preferably, the organic base is selected from amino acids, such as arginine; alkanolamines, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, aminomethylpropanol; primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamines, such as 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)propane-1,3-diol (also known as tromethamine) and aminomethylpropanediol; and mixtures thereof.

[0077] According to a specific embodiment, the base is a primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine.

[0078] According to another specific embodiment, the base is an amino acid, specifically arginine.

[0079] The term "primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine" specifically refers to a primary dihydroxyalkylamine. It should be understood that the term "primary" refers to the primary amine functional group, i.e., -NH2, and that the alkyl group is a straight-chain or branched C1-C8 chain, preferably a C4-based hydrocarbon chain, such as 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylpropyl. A primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine is preferably 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methyl-2-propylamine (also known as aminomethylpropanediol or AMPD).

[0080] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the organically derived base is aminomethylpropanediol.

[0081] The aminomethylpropanediol applicable to this invention is, for example, AMPD Ultra PC® sold by Angus (Dow Corning).

[0082] According to the second variant, a base is at least one inorganic base.

[0083] This inorganic base is selected from ammonium (NH4) +) and alkali metal hydroxides.

[0084] Preferably, the inorganic base is selected from sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide and mixtures thereof.

[0085] Adjust the amount of base to obtain sufficient neutralization to give the associated fatty acids (2) effective ionicity.

[0086] Preferably, the base (3) is present in an amount sufficient to neutralize some or all of the carboxyl functional groups of the fatty acid (2) containing at least 14 carbon atoms.

[0087] For example, the composition according to the invention may contain at least 0.1% by weight, and more preferably at least 0.15% by weight, of an alkali (3) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0088] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the alkali (3) is present in an amount of alkali, particularly sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aminomethylpropanediol, in the range of 0.2% to 3.0% by weight, preferably 0.3% to 2.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0089] The anionic surfactant (2) and base (3) constituting the neutralized ionic surfactant according to the invention may be introduced into the composition in the form of the same commercial material or in the form of two different commercial materials successively introduced into the composition.

[0090] Preferably, the anionic surfactant (2) and the base (3) are introduced into the composition in the form of two different commercial materials.

[0091] According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention contains at least a stearic acid anionic surfactant having the INCI name stearic acid, neutralized with aminomethylpropylene glycol.

[0092] According to another specific mode of the invention, the composition according to the invention contains at least a monocetyl phosphate anionic surfactant, namely a potassium salt of monocetyl phosphate, having the INCI name cetyl phosphate potassium, in the form of which it is completely neutralized with potassium hydroxide (KOH).

[0093] According to another specific mode of the invention, the composition according to the invention contains a mixture of at least one potassium monocetate salt of cetyl phosphate having the INCI name cetyl phosphate and stearic acid neutralized with aminomethyl propylene glycol.

[0094] Vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer The composition according to the invention comprises at least one copolymer (4) of vinylpyrrolidone and eicosene (C20 olefin) having the following structure: [Chemical Formula 1] And it has the following INCI name: VP / eicosene copolymer, such as commercial products sold by Ashland Inc. under the names Antaron V-220® and Ganex V-220® and by Givaudan ActiveBeauty under the name Unimer U-15®.

[0095] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and eicosene, preferably in a concentration range of 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably in a range of 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0096] semi-crystalline polymer The composition according to the invention comprises at least one semi-crystalline polymer (5).

[0097] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least 2.0% by weight, more preferably 3.0% to 20.0% by weight, even more preferably 4.0% to 15.0% by weight, and even more preferably 5.0% to 15.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (5).

[0098] For the purposes of this invention, the term "polymer" means a compound comprising at least two repeating units, preferably at least three repeating units, and more particularly at least ten repeating units.

[0099] For the purposes of this invention, the term "semi-crystalline polymer" refers to a polymer comprising a crystalline portion and an amorphous portion and having a first-order reversible phase transition (particularly a melting (solid-liquid transition)) temperature. The crystalline portion is preferably a chain (or a hanging chain) relative to the side of the main chain.

[0100] Apart from crystallizable chains or blocks, polymer blocks are amorphous.

[0101] For the purposes of this invention, the term "crystallizable chain or block" means a chain or block that, if individual, will reversibly change from an amorphous state to a crystalline state depending on whether the temperature is above or below the melting point. For the purposes of this invention, a chain is a group of atoms that is overhanging or lateral relative to the polymer backbone.

[0102] When the crystallizable portion is a chain that hangs over the main chain, the semi-crystalline polymer can be a homopolymer or a copolymer.

[0103] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymer (5) has an organic structure.

[0104] The term "organic compound" or "having an organic structure" refers to a compound containing carbon and hydrogen atoms, as well as optional heteroatoms such as S, O, N, or P (alone or in combination).

[0105] The semi-crystalline polymer according to the present invention is a solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and has a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C.

[0106] The melting point value corresponds to the melting point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the one sold by Mettler under the name DSC 30, where the temperature increases by 5°C or 10°C per minute (the melting point under consideration is the point at the temperature corresponding to the most endothermic peak in the thermogram).

[0107] According to a specific embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer (5) used in the composition of the present invention has a melting point mp of less than 95°C, preferably less than 85°C. Therefore, the semi-crystalline polymer can have a melting point mp in the range of 30°C to 95°C, and preferably 40°C to 85°C. This melting point is preferably a first-order phase change temperature.

[0108] According to the invention, the semi-crystalline polymer (5) is advantageously soluble in the aliphatic phase, particularly at temperatures higher than its melting point, by at least 1.0% by weight. Preferably, the polymer backbone of the semi-crystalline polymer is soluble in the aliphatic phase at temperatures above its melting point.

[0109] Preferably, the crystallizable blocks or chains of the semi-crystalline polymer (5) account for at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer, and more preferably at least 40%.

[0110] When the semi-crystalline polymers (5) of the present invention are crystallizable block polymers, they can be block or multi-block copolymers. They can be obtained by polymerizing monomers with reactive (or olefinic) double bonds or by polycondensation. When the polymers of the present invention are polymers with crystallizable side chains, these side chains are advantageously random or statistical in form.

[0111] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymer (5) of the present invention is of synthetic origin.

[0112] According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer (5) is selected from homopolymers and copolymers, which contain units produced by polymerization of one or more monomers with crystallizable hydrophobic side chains.

[0113] The semi-crystalline polymer (5) that can be used in this invention may be particularly selected from homopolymers or copolymers, especially those with at least one crystallizable side chain (such as those described in US-A-5 156 911).

[0114] In a preferred embodiment, the crystallizable side chains are hydrophobic.

[0115] These homopolymers or copolymers can be generated from: - Polymerization of one or more monomers containing reactive or olefinic double bonds (i.e., those containing vinyl, (meth)acrylic, or allyl groups), especially free radical polymerization. - Condensation polymerization of one or more monomers with co-reactive groups (carboxylic acids, sulfonic acids, alcohols, amines or isocyanates), such as polyesters, polyurethanes, polyethers or polyureas.

[0116] Generally, the crystallizable units (chains or blocks) of the semi-crystalline polymer (5) according to the invention are derived from monomers containing crystallizable blocks or chains used to manufacture the semi-crystalline polymer. These polymers are preferably homopolymers and copolymers, particularly selected from the polymerization of at least one monomer containing crystallizable chains, which can be represented by the following formula: [Chemical Formula 2] Where M represents an atom of the polymer backbone, C represents a crystallizable group, and S represents a spacer group. The crystallizable "-SC" chain is an aliphatic or aromatic chain based on hydrocarbons, including saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based alkyl chains, which are, for example, C10-C40, preferably C10-C30. "C" specifically represents a straight-chain, branched, or cyclic group (CH2). n Where n is an integer ranging from 10 to 40. Preferably, "C" is a straight-chain group. Preferably, "S" and "C" are different.

[0117] When the crystallizable chain is an aliphatic chain based on hydrocarbons, it includes alkyl chains based on hydrocarbons containing at least 10 carbon atoms and no more than 40 carbon atoms, and more preferably no more than 30 carbon atoms. These are particularly aliphatic or alkyl chains containing at least 10 carbon atoms, and they are preferably C10-C40, more preferably C10-C30 alkyl chains.

[0118] Preferably, the crystallizable chain is a C10-C30 hydrocarbon-based aliphatic chain.

[0119] Examples of semi-crystalline homopolymers or copolymers containing crystallizable chains applicable to the present invention include those produced by polymerization of one or more of the following monomers: saturated alkyl esters of (meth)acrylate with alkyl groups of C10-C30, N-alkyl (meth)acrylamide with alkyl groups of C10 to C30, vinyl esters containing alkyl chains with alkyl groups of C10 to C30, vinyl ethers containing alkyl chains with alkyl groups of C10 to C30, α-olefins (e.g., octadecene) with alkyl groups of C10 to C30, p-alkylstyrene comprising 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0120] When the polymer is produced by polycondensation, the hydrocarbon-based crystallizable chain, as defined above, is carried by a monomer, which may be a diacid, diol, diamine, or diisocyanate.

[0121] When the polymers used as the subject of this invention are copolymers, they additionally contain from 0% to 50% of a group Y, which is a polar monomer, a nonpolar monomer, or a mixture of both.

[0122] When Y is a polar monomer, it is a monomer with polyoxyethylene groups (especially ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups), hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates such as hydroxyethyl acrylate, (meth)acrylamide, N-alkyl (meth)acrylamide, N,N-dialkyl (meth)acrylamide, such as N,N-diisopropylacrylamide or N-vinylpyrrolidone (NVP), N-vinylcaprolactam, a monomer with at least one carboxylic acid group such as (meth)acrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid or fumaric acid, or a monomer with a carboxylic anhydride group such as maleic anhydride, and mixtures thereof.

[0123] When Y is a nonpolar monomer, it can be an ester of the type of straight-chain, branched or cyclic alkyl ester of (meth)acrylic acid, vinyl ester, alkyl vinyl ether, α-olefin, styrene or styrene substituted with C1 to C10 alkyl, such as α-methylstyrene, or a macromonomer of the type of polyorganosiloxane containing vinyl unsaturation.

[0124] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymer containing crystallizable side chains is a homopolymer of alkyl (meth)acrylate or alkyl (meth)acrylamide having alkyl groups as defined above, and especially C10-C30, copolymers of these monomers with hydrophilic monomers (e.g., N-vinylpyrrolidone or hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate) having properties different from those of (meth)acrylic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0125] Alternatively, a semi-crystalline polymer obtained by copolymerization of benzyl acrylate with acrylic acid or N-vinylpyrrolidone, as described in US-A-5 519 063, can be used.

[0126] Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer containing one or more crystallizable side chains has a weight-average molecular weight Mw ranging from 5,000 g / mol to 1,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 10,000 g / mol to 800,000 g / mol, preferably from 15,000 g / mol to 500,000 g / mol, and more preferably from 80,000 g / mol to 200,000 g / mol.

[0127] According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the semi-crystalline polymer can be selected from homopolymers and copolymers produced by polymerizing at least one monomer containing crystallizable side chains, the monomer being selected from saturated C10 to C30 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid that can be represented by the following formula: [Chemical Formula 3] R3 is H or CH3, R4 represents C10 to C30 alkyl and X represents O.

[0128] According to a more specific embodiment of the invention, the semi-crystalline polymer (5) is produced by polymerization of monomers containing crystallizable side chains, which are selected from saturated C10 to C30 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid.

[0129] The semi-crystalline polymer (5) containing crystallizable side chains can be selected from copolymers of acrylic acid and (meth)acrylic acid C10 to C30 alkyl esters, especially those described in patent US-A-5 156 911.

[0130] The semi-crystalline polymer (5) can be, in particular, those described in Examples 3, 4, 5, 7 and 9 of patent US-A-5 156 911, and more particularly those obtained by copolymerization of the following: - Acrylic acid, hexadecyl acrylate, and isodecyl acrylate in a 1 / 16 / 3 ratio. - 1 / 19 ratio of acrylic acid and pentadecanoacrylate, - Acrylic acid, hexadecyl acrylate, and ethyl acrylate in a 2.5 / 76.5 / 20 ratio. - Acrylic acid, hexadecyl acrylate, and methyl acrylate in a 5 / 85 / 10 ratio. - Acrylic acid and polymethyl methacrylate in a 2.5 / 97.5 ratio.

[0131] As a specific example of a semi-crystalline polymer (5) that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, reference can be made to the Intelimer® products from Landec Company described in the manual “Intelimer® Polymers”, Landec IP22®. These polymers are in solid form at room temperature (25°C). They have crystallizable side chains. They are alkyl polyacrylates (C10-C30), which are particularly suitable as semi-crystalline polymers (5) that can be included in the compositions according to the invention.

[0132] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the semi-crystalline polymer (5) according to the invention is derived from a monomer containing a crystallizable chain, the monomer being selected from saturated C10 to C30 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylate, and more particularly from poly(stearyl acrylate), poly(betamethinate), and mixtures thereof.

[0133] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymer (5) suitable for use in this invention is one of those having the following INCI names: C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate, especially stearyl polyacrylate, particularly the product sold by Evonik Corporation under the name Tego SP 13-13®, which is a stearyl polyacrylate with a melting point of 49°C ± 5°C, or benzyl polyacrylate sold by Evonik Corporation under the name Tego SP 13-6®, which is a benzyl polyacrylate with a melting point of 66°C ± 5°C.

[0134] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer (5) is at least one poly(succinate acrylate).

[0135] Examples of homopolymers or copolymers suitable as the semi-crystalline polymer (5) of the present invention preferably comprise 50% to 100% by weight of units produced by polymerization of one or more monomers having crystallizable hydrophobic side chains.

[0136] Film-forming polymers in the form of aqueous suspensions (7) According to a particular form of the invention, the composition comprises at least one film-forming polymer (7) in the form of solid particles suspended in the aqueous phase (6) of the composition.

[0137] In this patent application, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer that, at a temperature of 20°C, is capable of forming a continuous deposit on a carrier, either on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent.

[0138] The solid film-forming polymer particles (7) can be used on their own and suspended in the aqueous phase of the composition, or used in particulate form in an aqueous dispersion (latex or pseudo-latex).

[0139] Film-forming polymers that exist in aqueous dispersions in particulate form are commonly referred to as (pseudo)lates, i.e., latex or pseudo-latex. The techniques used to prepare these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

[0140] The compositions according to the invention may contain one or more types of particles that may differ in their size, structure and / or chemical properties.

[0141] The film-forming polymer (7) may be present in a solid content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0142] These solid particles can have anionic, cationic, or neutral properties, and can form mixtures of solid particles with different properties.

[0143] In this invention, the term "aqueous" refers to a liquid medium based on water and / or a hydrophilic solvent. This aqueous liquid medium may consist essentially of water. It may also include a mixture of water and a water-miscible organic solvent (miscible in water at 25°C greater than 50% by weight), such as lower monohydric alcohols containing 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; diols containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms, such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, or dipropylene glycol; C3-C4 ketones; or C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0144] Among the film-forming polymers (7) that can be used in the compositions of the present invention, reference may be made to synthetic polymers of the free radical type or condensation type and polymers of natural origin and mixtures thereof. Typically, these polymers may be statistical polymers, AB-type, ABA-type or ABCD-type multiblock copolymers, or even graft polymers.

[0145] Free radical film-forming polymers The term "free radical polymer" refers to polymers obtained by polymerization of unsaturated, and especially olefinically unsaturated, monomers, each of which can homopolymerize (as opposed to condensation polymers).

[0146] Free radical type film-forming polymers (7) can be, in particular, acrylic and / or vinyl homopolymers or copolymers.

[0147] Vinyl film-forming polymers can be produced by polymerization of olefinically unsaturated monomers containing at least one acid group and / or esters of these acid monomers and / or amides of these acid monomers.

[0148] The olefinically unsaturated monomers containing at least one acid group or monomers with an acid group that can be used include α,β-olefinically unsaturated carboxylic acids, such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, or itaconic acid. (Meth)acrylic acid and crotonic acid are used in particular, and (meth)acrylic acid is used even more particularly.

[0149] The ester of the acidic monomer is advantageously selected from esters of (meth)acrylic acid (also known as (meth)acrylates), especially alkyl, particularly C1-C20 and more particularly C1-C8 alkyl (meth)acrylates, aryl, particularly C6-C10 aryl (meth)acrylates, and hydroxyalkyl, particularly C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates.

[0150] Among the alkyl methacrylates that may be mentioned are methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, and lauryl methacrylate.

[0151] Among (meth)acrylates, hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate may be mentioned.

[0152] Among (meth)acrylate aryl esters, benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate can be mentioned.

[0153] Esters of (meth)acrylic acid, especially alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid.

[0154] According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the ester may be fluorinated or perfluorinated, that is, some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are replaced by fluorine atoms.

[0155] Examples of amides of acid monomers that may be mentioned are (meth)acrylamides, and especially N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, particularly C2-C12 alkyl N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides. Among the N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides that may be mentioned are N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide and N-tert-octylacrylamide.

[0156] Vinyl film-forming polymers can also be produced by homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers selected from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acid monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides (such as those previously mentioned).

[0157] Examples of vinyl esters that may be mentioned are vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl neopentanoate, vinyl benzoate, and tert-butylbenzoate.

[0158] Styrene monomers that may be mentioned include styrene and α-methylstyrene.

[0159] The list of monomers provided is not limiting and any monomers known to those skilled in the art, including those in the categories of acrylic and vinyl monomers (including monomers modified with silicone chains), may be used.

[0160] Also mentioned are polymers produced by free radical polymerization of one or more free radical monomers within and / or partially on the surface of at least one pre-existing polymer selected from the group consisting of polyurethane, polyurea, polyester, polyesteramide, and / or alkyd resin. These polymers are generally referred to as "hybrid polymers".

[0161] condensate As film-forming polymers of the condensation polymer type (7), anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, acrylic polyurethanes, polyvinylpyrrolidone-polyurethanes, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyurea, polyurea / polyurethanes and silicone polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof may be mentioned.

[0162] The film-forming polyurethane can be, for example, aliphatic, cycloaliphatic, or aromatic polyurethane, polyurea / urethane, or a polyurea copolymer, containing, alone or as a mixture, at least one block selected from the following: - Blocks derived from aliphatic and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic polyesters, and / or - Branched or unbranched silicone blocks, such as polydimethylsiloxane or polymethylphenylsiloxane, and / or - Blocks containing fluorine groups.

[0163] Film-forming polyurethanes as defined in this invention can also be obtained from branched or unbranched polyesters or from alkyd resins containing unstable hydrogen (which is modified by reaction with diisocyanates and bifunctional organic compounds such as dihydrogen, diamino, or hydroxyamino), and also containing carboxylic acid or carboxylic acid ester groups, or sulfonic acid or sulfonate groups, or alternatively neutralizable tertiary amine groups or quaternary ammonium groups.

[0164] Among film-forming condensates, polyesters, polyesteramides, aliphatic chain polyesters, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins can also be mentioned.

[0165] Polyesters can be obtained in a known manner by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, especially diols.

[0166] Dicarboxylic acids can be aliphatic, alicyclic, or aromatic. Examples of such acids include: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic acid, octanoic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanoic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norbornenedicarboxylic acid, diethylene glycol acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, and 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers can be used alone or in combination of at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, and terephthalic acid are particularly preferred.

[0167] The diol can be selected from aliphatic, alicyclic, and aromatic diols. Specifically, the diol used is selected from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexanediol, and 4-butanediol. Other polyols that can be used are glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, and trimethylolpropane.

[0168] Polyesteramides can be obtained by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols in a manner similar to that of polyesters. The diamines that can be used are ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, and m-phenylenediamine or p-phenylenediamine. The amino alcohol that can be used is monoethanolamine.

[0169] As a specific form of condensation polymer for film formation, polyester-polyurethane in the form of an aqueous dispersion will be used, having the following INCI name: polyurethane-35, such as the commercial product Baycusan C 1010 / 1®, and / or products having the following INCI name: polyurethane-48, such as the commercial product Baycusan C1008 / 1®, both of which are sold by Covestro.

[0170] Polymers from natural sources In this invention, optionally modified polymers of natural origin may be used, such as shellac resin, sand gum, dammar resin, elemi resin, copal resin, water-insoluble cellulose-based polymers such as nitrocellulose, modified cellulose esters (especially including carboxyalkyl cellulose esters, such as those described in patent application US 2003 / 185 774) and mixtures thereof.

[0171] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the at least one film-forming polymer in a dispersed state is selected from acrylic polymer dispersions, polyurethane dispersions, sulfonated polyester dispersions, vinyl dispersions, polyvinyl acetate dispersions, vinylpyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and lauryl dimethylpropylmethacrylamide ammonium chloride terpolymer dispersions, polyurethane / polyacrylic acid hybrid polymer dispersions and core-shell type particle dispersions, and mixtures thereof.

[0172] The following details various types of aqueous dispersions, particularly commercial aqueous dispersions, suitable for preparing compositions according to the present invention.

[0173] 1 / Therefore, according to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the aqueous dispersion of polymer particles is an aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymers.

[0174] Acrylic polymers can be styrene / acrylate (ester) copolymers, and particularly polymers selected from copolymers produced by polymerizing at least one styrene monomer and at least one (meth)acrylate C1-C18 alkyl ester monomer. As styrene monomers that can be used in this invention, examples include styrene or α-methylstyrene, and particularly styrene.

[0175] The (meth)acrylate C1-C18 alkyl ester monomers are particularly (meth)acrylate C1-C12 alkyl esters and more particularly (meth)acrylate C1-C10 alkyl esters. The (meth)acrylate C1-C18 alkyl ester monomers may be selected from methyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, butyl methacrylate, hexyl acrylate, octyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, lauryl acrylate, and stearyl methacrylate.

[0176] As an acrylic polymer in the form of an aqueous dispersion, it can be used according to the present invention: - Aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymers sold under the following names Acronal DS-6250® from BASF, Neocryl A-45®, Neocryl XK-90®, Neocryl A-1070®, Neocryl A-1090®, Neocryl BT-62®, Neocryl A-1079®, and Neocryl A-523® from DSM, Joncryl 95® and Joncryl 8211® from BASF, Daitosol 5000AD®, Epitex 66 Polymer® (INCI name: acrylate copolymer) in emulsion form from Dow Corning, or Daito Kasei Kogyo's Daitosol 5000 SJ® (INCI name: acrylate / ethylhexyl acrylate copolymer); Syntran 5760 from Interpolymer. CG® (INCI name: Styrene / Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer).

[0177] 2 / According to one embodiment variant of the present invention, the aqueous dispersion of polymer particles is an aqueous dispersion of polyester-polyurethane and / or polyether-polyurethane particles (especially in anionic form).

[0178] The anionic properties of the polyester-polyurethane and polyether-polyurethane used in this invention are due to the presence of groups with carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid functional groups in their constituent units.

[0179] The polyester-polyurethane or polyether-polyurethane particles used in this invention are typically sold in the form of aqueous dispersions.

[0180] The particle content of the dispersions currently available on the market ranges from about 20% to about 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersions.

[0181] Among the anionic polyester-polyurethane dispersions that can be used in the waterborne varnishes according to the present invention, particular mention can be made of the product sold by Noveon under the name Avalure UR 405®.

[0182] Among the anionic polyether-polyurethane particle dispersions that can be used according to the present invention, particularly noteworthy are the products sold by Novotel under the name Avalure UR 450® and by DSM under the name Neorez R 970®, Baycusan C 1010® (INCI name: polyurethane-35) sold by Covestro as Baycusan C1010 / 1®, and Baycusan C 1008 / 1® (INCI name: polyurethane-48 (and) methyl propylene glycol (and) octyl ethylene glycol (and) phenyl propanol).

[0183] According to a specific embodiment of the invention, a mixture of commercial dispersions consisting of anionic polyester-polyurethane particles as defined above and anionic polyether-polyurethane particles as also defined above can be used.

[0184] For example, a mixture of dispersions sold under the name Sancure 861® or a mixture of products sold under the name Avalure UR 405® and products sold under the name Avalure UR 450®, which are sold by Novolog Corporation, can be used.

[0185] As another example of the film-forming polymer according to the present invention, the following can also be mentioned: - A polyamide-type condensation polymer produced by the condensation of at least one acid selected from those described in US-A-5 874 069, US-A-5 919 441, US-A-6 051 216 and US-A-5981 680, such as those sold by Dow Corning under index numbers Dow Corning 2-8179® and Dow Corning 2-8178 Gellant®; or a polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type “diblock”, “triblock” or “radial” sequence copolymer, such as those sold under IM 5960®.

[0186] As solid particles of the film-forming polymer according to the present invention, the following can be more preferably used: - Aqueous dispersions of acrylic polymers sold under the following names: Acronal DS-6250® from BASF; Neocryl A-45®, Neocryl XK-90®, Neocryl A-1070®, Neocryl A-1090®, Neocryl BT-62®, Neocryl A-1079®, and Neocryl A-523® from DSM; Joncryl95® and Joncryl 8211® from BASF; Daitosol 5000 AD® (INCI name: acrylic (ester) copolymer) or Daitosol 5000 SJ® from Daito Chemical Industries, Ltd.; Epitex66 Polymer® (INCI name: acrylic (ester) / ethylhexyl acrylate copolymer) in emulsion form from Dow Corning; and Acudyne 5600P® and Acudyne from Dow Chemical. 5800P® (INCI name: acrylic (ester) copolymer); - Aqueous dispersions of polyurethane sold under the following names: DSM's Neorez R-981® and Neorez R-974®, Novartis' Avalure UR-405®, Avalure UR-410®, Avalure UR-425®, Avalure UR-450®, Sancure 875®, Avalure UR445® or Avalure UR 450®, Bayer's Impranil 85®, Covestro's Baycusan C 1010® (INCI name: Polyurethane-35) such as products sold under the name Baycusan C 1010 / 1®, and Baycusan C 1008 / 1® (INCI name: Polyurethane-48 (and) Methylpropylene glycol (and) Octylethylene glycol (and) Phenylacetyl alcohol).

[0187] - Sulfonated polyesters, such as those sold by Eastman Chemical Products under the trademark Eastman AQ®. - Vinyl dispersions such as Mexomer PAM®, aqueous dispersions of polyvinyl acetate such as Vinybran® from Nisshin Chemical or products sold by Union Carbide, and aqueous dispersions of vinylpyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide, and lauryl dimethylpropylmethacrylamide ammonium chloride terpolymers such as Styleze W® from ISP. - Aqueous dispersions of polyurethane / polyacrylic acid hybrid polymers, such as those sold by Air Products under index number Hybridur® or Duromer® from National Starch. - A mixture of them.

[0188] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous dispersion of an acrylic film-forming polymer.

[0189] According to a particular form, the compositions according to the invention comprise an aqueous dispersion of solid particles of an acrylic film-forming polymer having the following INCI name: an acrylic (ester) copolymer, such as a commercial product sold by Dow Corning in emulsion form under the name Epitex 66 Polymer®.

[0190] Aqueous phase The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase (6).

[0191] The term "aqueous phase" means a phase comprising water and, optionally, all water-soluble or water-miscible (water miscibility greater than 50% by weight at 25°C) solvents and components, wherein such solvents and components are, for example, lower monohydric alcohols containing 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol.

[0192] The aqueous phase may contain demineralized water or alternatively floral water, such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as Vittel, Lucas, or La Roche-Posay and / or spring water.

[0193] In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 30.0% by weight, more preferably at least 40.0% by weight, or even 50% to 60% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0194] Packing material (8) The composition according to the invention comprises at least one filler (8) having a water absorption capacity of <200 mL / 100 g as measured by the wet point method at 25 °C.

[0195] The wet point is defined as the volume of water, in mL / 100 g of filler, that corresponds to the formation of a homogeneous paste when solvent water is added to the powder.

[0196] The application scheme is as follows, inspired by the standard ISO787-5, suitable for reducing sample volume and applicable only to packing materials (particles >1 μm).

[0197] The principle of this method is to manually prepare powder / water mixtures in variable proportions to determine a threshold concentration above which excess liquid is perceptible on a macroscopic scale based on visual observation. Below this threshold, the mixture exhibits a particulate appearance. This liquid concentration limit is considered the wet point, i.e., the maximum absorption capacity of the powder for that liquid.

[0198] The technique involves weighing a predetermined amount of powder, adding a predetermined amount of liquid, homogenizing the mixture using a scraper, and then vortexing and observing the mixture. The aim is to iteratively (by adding liquid or increasing the liquid / powder ratio) to obtain a paste-like, non-particulate but non-fluid mixture.

[0199] 1. Using a precision balance, accurately weigh the filler sample into a 25 ml scintillation vial.

[0200] 2. Add the exact same mass of liquid (water).

[0201] 3. Homogenize the mixture by vortexing for 30 seconds.

[0202] 4. Use a stainless steel scraper to manually homogenize the mixture into a slurry.

[0203] 5. Homogenize the mixture by vortexing for 30 seconds.

[0204] 6. Observe the bottle with your eyes and / or using a binocular magnifying glass: 7a. In case of excess liquid, restart from step 1 in another bottle, then add less liquid in step 2 and continue the procedure until step 6. 7b. If the water / filler mixture has a particulate appearance, restart from step 1 in another bottle, add more water in step 2, and continue the process until step 6; 7c. When the mixture is paste-like, non-particulate, and non-fluid, the amount of water added (in mL) is considered the “wet point” value.

[0205] The filler (8) according to the invention is any form of colorless or white solid particles that are insoluble and dispersed in the composition medium. They may be in layered, spherical, spherical or fibrous form or any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

[0206] The packing material (8) according to the present invention can be selected from inorganic packing materials, organic packing materials and mixtures thereof.

[0207] Among the inorganic fillers (8) with a water absorption capacity of <200 mL / 100 g that can be used according to the present invention, it can be mentioned that: - Clays, such as those with the INCI name magnesium aluminum silicate, such as the product sold by Vanderbilt under the trade name Veegum R® (water absorption capacity: 43 mL / 100 g); those with the INCI name Moroccan lava clay, such as the product sold by Greentech under the trade name Ghassoul Powder® (water absorption capacity: 71 mL / 100 g); those with the following INCI name: calcium sodium aluminum silicate, such as the product sold by US Cosmetics under the trade name Beadylbeads® (water absorption capacity: 36 mL / 100 g). - Talc, such as the product sold by American Cosmetics under the brand name J 68 BC® (absorbency: 59 mL / 100 g); and the product sold by Imerys under the brand name Imerys Pharma 00T® (absorbency: 46 mL / 100 g). - Kaolin, such as the product sold by Imeris under the trade name Imericare 04K® (absorbency: 48.5 mL / 100 g) or Imeris' commercial product Kaolin Supreme L'Oréal Decontam® (absorbency: 106 mL / 100 g); the product sold by BeracaIngr. Naturais (Clariant) under the trade name BeracaAmazonian White Clay® (absorbency: 29 mL / 100 g); and the product sold by Fuji Fine Chemical (Shanghai) under the trade name FJK-16® (absorbency: 49 mL / 100 g). - Untreated mica from natural sources, such as Sericite SL® (absorbency: 49 mL / 100 g) sold by SL Horie Kako; Mearlmica SV® (absorbency: 54 mL / 100 g) sold by BASF; and Sumicos Velvet Mica43037® (absorbency: 64 mL / 100 g) sold by Sudarshan Chemical. - Synthetic mica, such as those with the following INCI name: Synthetic fluoropyrite, such as the commercial product Synafil S 1050® (absorbency: 22 mL / 100 g) sold by Eckart. - Chemically treated mica, such as products with the following INCI names: mica (and) isostearate sebacic acid (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide, such as the commercial product NHS-S-100® (water absorption capacity: 40 mL / 100 g) sold by Myoshi Kasei Corporation. - Calcium carbonate, such as the commercial product Carbomat® (absorbency: 30mL / 100g) sold by Sensient; and the commercial product Omyacare Extra 35-OG® (absorbency: 27mL / 100g) sold by Omya. - Boron nitride, such as the commercial product Ronaflair Boroneige SQ-6® (absorption capacity: 84 mL / 100 g) sold by Merck; and the commercial product Boron Nitride SHP3® (absorption capacity: 100 mL / 100 g) sold by Mizushima Ferroalloy. - Bismuth oxychloride with the following INCI name: Bismuth oxychloride, such as the commercial product Pearl 2600 UVS® (water absorption capacity: 38 mL / 100 g) sold by FQ Specialty Chemicals. - Glass beads with the following INCI name: Glass beads, such as the commercial product P2015SL® (absorbency: 35 mL / 100 g) sold by Prizmalite. - Uncoated or coated spherical silica powders, such as the commercial product Spherica L-1500® (water absorption capacity: 137 mL / 100 g) sold by JGC Catalysts & Chemicals; the commercial products Sunsphere H51® or Solesphere H51® (water absorption capacity: 100 mL / 100 g) sold by AGC SI-Tech; the commercial product BA4® (water absorption capacity: 29 mL / 100 g) sold by JGC Catalysts & Chemicals; and lauroyl lysine-coated silica powders with the following INCI names: silica (and) lauroyl lysine, such as the commercial product Amilon® (water absorption capacity: 123 ml / 100 g) sold by Ikeda Co., Ltd.

[0208] Among the organic fillers (8) with a water absorption capacity of <200 mL / 100 g that can be used according to the present invention, it can be mentioned that: - Native starch, such as corn starch with INCI names: maize starch, such as the product sold by Roquette under the trade name Beauty By Roquette ST005® (water absorption capacity: 60 mL / 100 g); rice starch with the following INCI names: rice starch, such as the commercial product Remytec FI® sold by Creachem (water absorption capacity: 69 mL / 100 g). - Chemically modified starches, such as potato starch modified with sodium ethylaminodipropionate, have the following INCI names: Modified potato starch, such as StructureSolanace, a commercial product sold by AkzoNobel; Corn starch esterified with aluminum salts of octenyl succinic anhydride, have the following INCI names: Starch octenyl succinate aluminum, such as Dry Flo Plus® (water absorption capacity: 74 mL / 100 g), a commercial product sold by AkzoNobel; Hydroxypropylated corn starch phosphates with the following INCI names: Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate octenyl succinate, such as Structure Zea® (water absorption capacity: 64 mL / 100 g), a commercial product sold by AkzoNobel; Crosslinked potato carboxymethyl starch sodium with the following INCI names: Carboxymethyl starch sodium, such as Beauty ByRoquette ST118® (water absorption capacity: 181 ml / 100 g), a commercial product sold by Roquette. g); acetylated and oxidized tapioca starch with the following INCI names: oxidized starch acetate, such as the commercial product GF-A390® (water absorption capacity: 55 mL / 100 g) sold by Foshan Gaofeng Starch Technology Co., Ltd.; composite powders of starch and sodium polyacrylate with the following INCI names: sodium polyacrylate starch, such as the commercial products Makimousse 25® (water absorption capacity: 86 mL / 100 g) and Makimousse 12® (water absorption capacity: 179 mL / 100 g) sold by Daito Chemical Industries, Ltd. - Silicone elastomer powders, such as those with the following INCI names: polydimethylsiloxane / vinyl dimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymers, such as the commercial products Dowsil Trefil E-506 S SiliconePowder® (absorbency: 80 mL / 100 g) and Dowsil 9701 Cosmetic Powder® (absorbency: 107 mL / 100 g) sold by Dow Corning; and those with the following INCI names: diphenyl dimethylsiloxane / vinyl diphenyl dimethylsiloxane / sesquioxane crosslinked polymers, such as the commercial product KSP300® (absorbency: 130 mL / 100 g) sold by Shin-Etsu Corporation. - Cellulose powder, such as crystalline cellulose powder with the following INCI name: Microcrystalline cellulose, such as the commercial product Avicel PC 105® (water absorption capacity: 159 mL / 100 g) sold by DuPont; cellulose powder with the following INCI name: cellulose, such as the commercial product Cellulobeads D-10® (water absorption capacity: 124 mL / 100 g) sold by Daito Kasei Corporation. - Acrylic powders, such as products with the following INCI names: methyl methacrylate crosspolymers (and) liquid paraffin, such as Sepimat H 10® (water absorption capacity: 82 mL / 100 g) sold by SEPPIC; those with the following INCI names: methyl methacrylate crosspolymers, such as MSP-930® (water absorption capacity: 63 mL / 100 g); those with the following INCI names: styrene / acrylate copolymers, such as Sunspheres Powder® (water absorption capacity: 91 mL / 100 g) sold by Rohm & Haas. - Polyurethane powders, such as those with the following INCI name: HDI / trimethylolhexyl lactone crosspolymer, such as the commercial product D-400® (absorption capacity: 138 mL / 100g) sold by Toshiki Pigment Co., Ltd. - Silk protein powder with the following INCI name: Silk powder, such as the commercial product Crosilk Powder-PW® (absorption capacity: 70 mL / 100 g) sold by Croda.

[0209] More specifically, fillers selected from the following are used: kaolin, spherical silica powder, cross-linked potato carboxymethyl starch sodium with the following INCI name: carboxymethyl starch sodium, and mixtures thereof.

[0210] The filler (8) with a water absorption capacity of <200 mL / 100 g is preferably present in a content of 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 5% by weight, and more preferably 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0211] Water-soluble liquid polyols The compositions according to the present invention may further contain at least one water-soluble liquid polyol.

[0212] The term “water-soluble liquid polyol” means any organic molecule containing at least two hydroxyl groups (OH) that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure and is water-miscible (more than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

[0213] Among water-soluble polyols, compounds comprising straight-chain, branched-chain, or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chains containing at least two OH functional groups may be mentioned. The alkyl chain preferably contains 2 to 32 carbon atoms, particularly 3 to 16, more particularly 3 to 8 carbon atoms, and even more particularly 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0214] Preferably, the water-soluble liquid polyol may be selected from glycols such as ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butanediol, isopentylene glycol, pentanediol, hexanediol, dipropylene glycol, and glycerol; polyglycerol, such as glycerol oligomers, for example diglycerol; polyethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0215] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the water-soluble liquid polyol is 1,3-butanediol having the following INCI name: butanediol.

[0216] Preferably, the water-soluble liquid polyol is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 6% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0217] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises: At least betaine and betaine ester, and A mixture of at least one potassium monocetate salt of cetyl phosphate with the INCI name potassium cetyl phosphate and stearic acid neutralized with aminomethyl propylene glycol, and At least one copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and eicosene, and At least one semi-crystalline polymer selected from saturated C10 to C30 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylate, and more particularly from poly(stearyl acrylate), poly(benzyl acrylate), and mixtures thereof; and Aqueous phase, and Solid particles of acrylic film-forming polymers suspended in the aqueous phase (6); and Fillers with a water absorption capacity of <200 mL / 100 g measured by the wet-point method at 25°C are selected from kaolin, spherical silica powder, cross-linked sodium carboxymethyl starch of potato with the following INCI name: sodium carboxymethyl starch, and mixtures thereof; and 1,3-Butanediol.

[0218] Other components In addition to the compounds described above, the compositions according to the present invention may, needless to say, contain other ingredients.

[0219] a) fatty alcohols Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one fatty alcohol. Therefore, the composition may comprise a single fatty alcohol or several different fatty alcohols according to the invention.

[0220] If several different fatty alcohols are present, they can be added separately during the preparation of the composition, and then a mixture of them can be formed in situ. They can also be used in the form of mixtures that are commercially available, in which the weight ratio and purity of each fatty alcohol are controlled. In other words, the composition of these mixtures is faithfully reproducible compared to fatty alcohol mixtures synthesized from starting materials derived from complex mixtures.

[0221] The fatty alcohols are particularly selected from straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated C14-C30 fatty alcohols, preferably C14-C24, and even more preferably C14-C20 fatty alcohols.

[0222] The fatty alcohol is particularly selected from straight-chain and saturated C14-C30 fatty alcohols, preferably straight-chain and saturated C14-C24 fatty alcohols, and even more preferably straight-chain and saturated C14-C20 fatty alcohols.

[0223] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohol is in the form of a mixture of several different fatty alcohols, and preferably a mixture of several straight-chain and saturated C14-C30, even better C14-C24, and even better C14-C20 fatty alcohols.

[0224] Preferably, the fatty alcohol according to the invention is selected from cetyl alcohol (C16), stearyl alcohol (C18), and mixtures thereof (also known as “cetear-stearyl alcohol”). Preferably, the fatty alcohol according to the invention is a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. Such mixtures are sold in particular by BASF under the name Lannette OR / MB®.

[0225] According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohol is a solid at room temperature.

[0226] The fatty alcohol is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1.0% to 20.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2.0% to 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and even more particularly from 3.0% to 10.0% by weight.

[0227] b) Wax Therefore, the compositions according to the present invention may also contain wax.

[0228] However, for the purposes of this invention, the composition according to the invention preferably contains a reduced amount of wax, and in particular less than 5% by weight, or even less than 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0229] As explained above, for the purposes of this invention, the term "wax" refers to a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), has a reversible solid / liquid state change, and has a melting point greater than or equal to 40°C, which can be as high as 120°C.

[0230] In retrospect, for the purposes of this invention, the waxes involved in the above-mentioned quantity restrictions are different from those that may be embodied by the components of the linear fatty acid monoester (1) according to the invention and other fatty alcohol components as defined below.

[0231] This limitation applies more specifically to waxes that consist of complex mixtures and are particularly described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, 2015, Wiley-VCHVerlag GmbH & Co. KGaA.

[0232] These waxes can be natural, but they can also be synthetic.

[0233] The term "natural" wax is intended to refer to any wax that is pre-existing in nature or can be transformed, extracted or purified from natural compounds that exist in nature.

[0234] Among natural waxes, those particularly noteworthy are those called fossil waxes, including petroleum-derived ones such as kerosene, coal wax, macrocrystalline wax (also known as paraffin wax, including crude wax or gatsch wax, gatsch wax refinement, deoiled gatsch wax, soft wax, semi-refined wax, filtered wax, and refined wax), and microcrystalline waxes, including glossy gatsch wax. Fossil waxes also contain lignite wax (also known as montan wax) or peat wax.

[0235] As for natural waxes other than fossil wax, animal and plant waxes are worth mentioning.

[0236] Examples of plant waxes that can be mentioned include carnauba wax, candelilla wax, crown palm wax, sugarcane wax, jojoba wax, Argentine long-spined palm wax, raffia wax, alfalfa wax, wax extracted from Douglas fir, sisal wax, linseed wax, cotton wax, Batavia dammar wax, grain wax, tea wax, coffee wax, rice wax, palm wax, Japanese wax, mixtures thereof, and their derivatives.

[0237] Examples of animal waxes that may be mentioned include beeswax, gandal wax, shellac, Chinese wax, lanolin (also known as wool wax), mixtures thereof, and their derivatives.

[0238] These waxes are typically multi-component. For example, natural beeswax consists of approximately 70% esters of major monoesters (fatty acids and fatty alcohols), as well as hydroxy esters, diesters and triesters, and sterol esters, along with long-chain straight-chain hydrocarbons, free acids, and free alcohols. For obvious reasons, it is difficult to guarantee the weight proportions and purity of its components from one production batch to another.

[0239] The term "synthetic" wax is intended to refer to waxes whose synthesis requires one or more chemical reactions carried out by humans.

[0240] Synthetic waxes can be distinguished into semi-synthetic and fully synthetic waxes. Synthetic waxes can be waxes obtained through the Fischer-Tropsch process (e.g., paraffin wax with a carbon number range of 20 to 50) or polyolefin waxes (e.g., homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, propylene, or butene, or even longer-chain α-olefins). The latter can be obtained through thermomechanical degradation of the plastic polyethylene, the Ziegler process, high-pressure processes, or methods catalyzed by metallocenes. These waxes can be crystallizable, partially crystallizable, or amorphous. The aforementioned synthetic waxes are generally non-polar and can be chemically treated to obtain polar waxes, for example, through one or more of the following reactions: air oxidation, grafting, esterification, neutralization with metal soaps, amidation, direct copolymerization, or addition reactions.

[0241] In similar circumstances, their composition may consist of a mixture of ingredients, resulting in a mixture of compounds with different fatty acid chain lengths due to the lack of a well-defined fatty acid chain length. Consequently, manufacturers may find it difficult to guarantee perfect reproducibility from one production batch to another.

[0242] Therefore, the compositions according to the invention advantageously contain less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, of wax, especially multi-component natural or synthetic wax, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0243] For the purposes of this invention, multicomponent wax refers to a wax composed of a mixture of several components, such as those that are naturally occurring like natural waxes, or those that are formed during the industrial synthesis of these materials.

[0244] In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition does not contain these waxes, especially multi-component natural or synthetic waxes.

[0245] As explained above, the preferred textured compounds according to the invention are, by comparison and advantageously, synthetic single-component compounds, which can thus be obtained in a form purified to greater than 99%, such as the compound (1) required according to the invention.

[0246] c) Liquid fatty phase The compositions according to the present invention may also contain a liquid fatty phase.

[0247] This liquid aliphatic phase is an organic phase that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). It is non-aqueous and immiscible with water.

[0248] The liquid fatty phase may contain non-volatile oils, particularly those selected from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils.

[0249] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil that primarily contains carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly one or more functional groups selected from hydroxyl, ester, ether, and carboxylic acid functional groups.

[0250] The term "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil that remains on the skin or keratin fibers at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and particularly has a viscosity of less than 10 ppm. -3 Oil with a vapor pressure of mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0251] The composition according to the invention preferably contains less than 5.0% by weight, and more preferably less than 2.0% by weight, of volatile oil relative to the total weight of the composition. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition does not contain volatile oil.

[0252] For the purposes of this invention, the term "volatile oil" refers to any oil that is capable of evaporating within less than one hour upon contact with skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oils are volatile cosmetic compounds that are liquid at room temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure, particularly in the range of 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, especially in the range of 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and even more particularly in the range of 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.

[0253] d) Hydrophilic film-forming polymers The compositions according to the present invention may preferably contain at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer.

[0254] For the purposes of this invention, the term "hydrophilic polymer" refers to a water-soluble polymer.

[0255] For the purposes of this invention, the term "water-soluble polymer" refers to a polymer that produces a macroscopically homogeneous solution when introduced into water at a concentration of 1% or more, the solution having a transmittance of at least 10% through a 1 cm thick sample at a wavelength of 500 nm or more.

[0256] For the purposes of this invention, the term "film-forming polymer" refers to a polymer that is capable of forming a macroscopic continuous deposit, either on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, and preferably a cohesive deposit, and even more preferably a deposit whose cohesiveness and mechanical properties enable the deposit to be separable and manipulated individually, for example, when the deposit is prepared by pouring it onto a non-stick surface (such as a Teflon-coated or silicone-coated surface).

[0257] For the purposes of this invention, a particularly advantageous hydrophilic film-forming polymer is a (poly)vinylpyrrolidone hydrophilic polymer.

[0258] The (poly)vinylpyrrolidone hydrophilic polymers suitable for use in this invention can have a weight-average molecular weight Mw ranging from 1,500 to 500,000 g / mol.

[0259] The composition according to the invention has a total solids content of (poly)vinylpyrrolidone hydrophilic polymer of greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 1.0% by weight, and more preferably greater than or equal to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0260] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises 0.1% to 15.0% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 10.0% by weight, and even more preferably 1.0% to 8.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0261] Preferably, the (poly)vinylpyrrolidone hydrophilic polymer according to the invention is linear.

[0262] In particular, the (poly)vinylpyrrolidone hydrophilic polymer according to the invention is selected from random polymers, block copolymers, and mixtures thereof. The term "block copolymer" means a polymer containing at least two different blocks or sequences, and preferably at least three different blocks.

[0263] (Poly)vinylpyrrolidone hydrophilic polymers are selected from: - (poly)vinylpyrrolidone homopolymer; - (poly)vinylpyrrolidone / (poly)vinyl acetate, a copolymer of their esters, - Copolymers of (poly)vinylpyrrolidone / (meth)acrylic acid, their salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0264] Examples that can be mentioned as (poly)vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers include: - Polyvinylpyrrolidone (2500 g / mol) marketed by BASF under the trade name Kollidon 17 PF®. - Polyvinylpyrrolidone sold by BASF under the trade name Luviskol K 30 Powder® or by ISP (Ashland) under the trade name PVP K 30L®. - Polyvinylpyrrolidone sold by ISP (Ashland Corporation) under the trade name PVP K 90®.

[0265] Examples that can be mentioned as (poly)vinylpyrrolidone / (poly)vinyl acetate copolymers include the vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate (60 / 40) copolymer marketed by BASF under the trade name Luviskol VA 64 Powder®.

[0266] e) Cosmetic surfactants As cosmetic active agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, antioxidants, preservatives, fragrances, neutralizers, cosmetic active agents such as emollients, vitamins, and concealing agents, especially sunscreens, and mixtures thereof, may be mentioned in particular.

[0267] These additives may be present in the composition at a concentration ranging from 0.01% to 15.0% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0268] Needless to say, those skilled in the art will carefully select any additional optional additives and / or their amounts so that the advantageous properties of the compositions according to the invention are not or substantially not adversely affected by the contemplated additions.

[0269] f) Dyes The compositions according to the invention, and especially those intended for use in cosmetics, typically contain at least one dye, such as a powder, a fat-soluble dye, or a water-soluble dye.

[0270] Powdered dyes can be selected from pigments and mother-of-pearl.

[0271] These pigments can be white or colored, inorganic and / or organic, and coated or uncoated. Among inorganic pigments, those mentioned include titanium dioxide (optionally surface-treated), zirconium oxide, zinc oxide or cerium dioxide, as well as iron oxide, chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine, chromium hydrate, and iron blue. Among organic pigments, those mentioned include carbon black, D&C type pigments, and lakes based on carmine or barium, strontium, calcium, or aluminum.

[0272] Mother-of-pearl can be selected from white pearlescent pigments, such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride; colored pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica with iron oxide, especially titanium mica with iron blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with organic pigments of the above types, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0273] Fat-soluble dyes include, for example, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, quinoline yellow, and annatto red.

[0274] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a powdered dye, preferably a pigment type, particularly a metal oxide, especially titanium dioxide, iron oxide and mixtures thereof; and more preferably iron oxide, and even more particularly black iron oxide (CI77499).

[0275] Preferably, the dye is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 2.0% to 25.0% by weight, more preferably from 3.0% to 20.0% by weight, and more particularly from 4.0% to 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0276] physical properties a) Solid content The compositions according to the invention advantageously have a solids content of at least 25.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably at least 30.0% by weight, or even 30.0% to 60.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0277] For the purposes of this invention, the term "solid content" refers to the content of non-volatile substances.

[0278] The amount of solids content (abbreviated as SC) of the compositions according to the invention was measured using a commercial halogen dryer from Mettler Toledo, the Halogen Moisture Analyzer HR 73®. This measurement was based on the weight loss of the sample dried by halogen heating and thus represents the percentage of the remaining substance after water and volatile substances have evaporated.

[0279] This technology is fully described in the machine documentation provided by Mettler Toledo.

[0280] The measurement plan is as follows: Approximately 2 g of the composition (hereinafter referred to as the sample) was spread on a metal crucible, which was then placed in the aforementioned halogen desiccator. The sample was then subjected to a temperature of 105°C until a constant weight was obtained. The wet mass of the sample (corresponding to its initial mass) and the dry mass of the sample (corresponding to its mass after halogen heating) were measured using a precision balance.

[0281] The experimental error associated with the measurement is on the order of plus or minus 2%.

[0282] Calculate the solids content as follows: [Mathematical Expression 1] .

[0283] Consistency Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a consistency characteristic at 25°C of having a hardness ≥ 20 g, more preferably a hardness range of 20 to 200 g, and even more preferably 30 to 150 g.

[0284] The consistency of mascara is measured using the following method: The measuring device was a TA-XT-Plus® sold by Staples Micro Systems, equipped with a unit for measuring 5 kg force and a cylindrical rotor made of Delrin with a diameter of 12.7 mm (1 / 2 inch). The mascara was kept at a constant temperature of 20°C. It was then applied in excess to a container with a diameter of 60 mm and a depth of 22 mm using a metal spatula. The product was spread out to avoid any cavitation without being hammered to prevent deformation. The container was then leveled with the spatula to make the surface as uniform as possible. The container was then covered with a watch glass to limit the evaporation of solvents present in the formulation for approximately 10 minutes. The options selected for this measurement method are as follows: Test mode: Compression measurement Trigger force: 2.0 g Pre-velocity: 0.5 mm / sec Test speed: 0.5 mm / sec Temperature: 20℃ ± 1℃ Penetration distance: 5 mm.

[0285] Perform three consecutive measurements at points at least 10 mm from the edge of the container and at least 12 mm apart. Keep the container in place during the measurements. The retained value is the average of the maximum values ​​obtained at each measurement.

[0286] This consistency is particularly advantageous because it is best suited for mascara application devices.

[0287] This composition can be manufactured using methods commonly used in the cosmetics industry.

[0288] The composition used according to the present invention can be a cosmetic composition, a makeup primer (especially for keratin fibers) or a base coat; a composition to be applied to makeup, also known as a top coat; or it can also be a composition for treating keratin fibers.

[0289] More specifically, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of eyelash products (such as mascara), eyebrow products or eye contouring products (such as eyeliner gel), and more particularly in the form of mascara.

[0290] Such compositions are prepared, in particular, based on the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

[0291] Packaging and application components or kits The present invention also relates to a component or kit for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers, comprising: - A packaging device comprising the cosmetic composition as previously described for coating keratin fibers. - An applicator for the composition.

[0292] The applicator can be integrally attached to a handle member forming a cap for the packaging device. In other words, the applicator can be mounted in a removable position between a closed and an open position of the dispensing opening of the device for packaging the composition.

[0293] Components suitable for use in applying keratin fibers according to the present invention may include an applicator designed for applying the cosmetic composition for applying keratin fibers, and, where appropriate, a regulating device for receiving the composition.

[0294] Applicator Applicators include devices for smoothing and / or separating keratin fibers (such as eyelashes or eyebrows), especially in the form of teeth, brushes, studs or other embossing.

[0295] The applicator is arranged to apply the composition to eyelashes or eyebrows and may include, for example, a brush or comb.

[0296] The applicator can also be used to complete makeup on areas of the eyelashes or eyebrows where the composition has been applied.

[0297] A brush may include a twisted core and bristles held between turns of the core, or it may be made in yet another way.

[0298] For example, combs are made from a single part through plastic molding.

[0299] In some exemplary embodiments, the application member is mounted at the end of a handle, which may be flexible, which may help improve comfort during application.

[0300] Packaging equipment The packaging device includes a container for holding the composition coated with keratin fibers. The composition can then be removed from the container by immersing an applicator therein.

[0301] The applicator can be securely attached to a component for sealing the container. This sealing component can form a gripping part for the applicator. This gripping component can form a cap for removable mounting on the container by any suitable means, such as by threaded connection, snap-fit, coupling, etc. Therefore, this container can reversibly accommodate the applicator.

[0302] The container may optionally be equipped with a wiper suitable for removing excess product absorbed by the applicator.

[0303] A method for applying the composition according to the invention to eyelashes or eyebrows may further include the following steps: - Deposits of cosmetic compositions that form on eyelashes or eyebrows. - Leave the deposit on your eyelashes or eyebrows; the deposit may dry out.

[0304] It should be noted that, according to another embodiment, the applicator can form a product container. In this case, for example, the container can be disposed in a gripping member, and an internal channel can internally connect the gripping member to the applicator in an embossed manner.

[0305] Finally, it should be noted that the packaging and application components can be in the form of a kit, and the applicator and packaging device can be housed separately in the same package.

[0306] Unless otherwise stated, the expressions “between… and…” and “ranging from… to…” should be understood to include the limit values.

[0307] In the specification and examples, unless otherwise stated, percentages are weight percentages. Therefore, percentages are expressed as a percentage relative to the total weight of the composition. The ingredients are mixed in an order and under conditions readily determined by those skilled in the art.

[0308] The invention will now be described by way of examples, which are for illustrative purposes only and should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention.

[0309] mascara examples .

[0310] Example preparation scheme The composition was prepared in a Maxilab Olsa® jacketed tank (on a 3 kg scale) as follows. All components except the acrylate copolymer were introduced into the tank at room temperature (25°C). The mixture was heated to approximately 90°C with stirring. Emulsification was carried out for 15 minutes with turbine / blade / scraper agitation (3000 / 30 / 42 rpm). The juice was then gradually cooled to 60°C at a rate of 2°C / min with blade / scraper agitation (30 / 42 rpm). The acrylate copolymer was then added, and the mixture was cooled to 35°C at a rate of 2°C / min with blade / scraper agitation (30 / 42 rpm), and the formulation was gradually degassed by vacuum before being vented at 35°C.

[0311] Skin assessment program Apply 10 mg of the product to the skin and rub it back and forth 15 times with your fingertips along a 4 cm strip.

[0312] Processing time is assessed by its spreadability on the skin (i.e., glide and the time it takes for the formula to spread). It is evaluated on a scale of 0 to 5, where 0 corresponds to a short processing time and 5 corresponds to a long processing time.

[0313] Black intensity is assessed on a scale of 0 to 5, where 0 corresponds to low intensity and 5 corresponds to high intensity.

[0314] The appearance of particles (flakes) is evaluated on a scale of 0 to 5, where 0 corresponds to the absence of particles and 5 corresponds to the presence of a large number of particles.

[0315] It should be noted that a significant difference can be observed when the difference between two scores is greater than or equal to 1.

[0316] The test was conducted on six people, and the scores were determined by consensus among these different individuals.

[0317] Bioskin® Evaluation Program Apply 5 mg of the product to the Bioskin® carrier (BioSkin Plate #10 100311) and rub the fingertip back and forth 15 times along the 4 cm strip.

[0318] Black strength is assessed on a scale of 0 to 5, where 0 is low strength and 5 is high strength.

[0319] The appearance of particles (flakes) is evaluated on a scale of 0 to 5, where 0 corresponds to the absence of particles and 5 corresponds to the obvious presence of particles.

[0320] It should be noted that a significant difference can be observed when the difference between two scores is greater than or equal to 1.

[0321] The test was conducted on six people, and the scores were determined by consensus among these different individuals.

[0322] The results are shown in the table below.

[0323] It should be noted that Example 1a, which does not contain butanediol outside of this invention, exhibits a black, low-intensity deposit in the presence of many particles.

[0324] It should be noted that Example 1b, which is outside the present invention and contains neither butanediol nor kaolin, exhibits sediments with even lower black intensity in the presence of many particles.

[0325] It should be noted that, in Example 1 according to the invention, the presence of butanediol allows for improved operating time.

[0326] It should be noted that, in Example 1 according to the invention, the presence of kaolin provides a blacker, stronger sediment with far fewer particles.

[0327] The combination of butanediol and kaolin in Example 1 of the present invention results in deposits with significantly fewer particles, greater blackness, and improved operating time.

[0328] Comparative tests highlighting different filler types The following packing materials were compared.

[0329] Examples 2, 2a and 2b according to the invention, and examples 2c, 2e, 2f and 2g outside the invention were carried out.

[0330] Preparation scheme The filler-free formulation (on a 3 kg scale) was prepared in a Maxilab Olsa® jacketed tank as follows: All components except the acrylate copolymer and filler were introduced into the tank at room temperature (25°C). The mixture was heated to approximately 90°C with stirring. Emulsification was carried out for 15 minutes with turbine / blade / scraper agitation (speed 3000 / 30 / 42 rpm). The juice was then gradually cooled to 60°C at a rate of 2°C / min with blade / scraper agitation (speed = 30 / 42 rpm). The acrylate copolymer was then added, and the mixture was cooled to 35°C at a rate of 2°C / min with blade / scraper agitation (speed = 30 / 42 rpm), while the formulation was gradually degassed by vacuum before being vented at 35°C. 1% of each selected filler was added individually to this formulation, and it was then homogenized for 1 min 30 sec at 2500 rpm using a Speed-mixer®.

[0331] Evaluation of Examples 2, 2a, and 2b of the present invention and Examples 2c, 2d, 2e, 2f, and 2g outside the present invention. .

[0332] It should be noted that, compared with Examples 2c, 2d, 2e, 2f and 2g outside the present invention, which contain fillers with a water absorption capacity of >200 mL / 100 g, Examples 2, 2a and 2b of the present invention, which incorporate fillers with a water absorption capacity of <200 mL / 100 g, produced deposits with higher black intensity and fewer particles.

Claims

1. A composition comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: (1) at least one linear fatty acid monoester of formula (I) below: (I) in which Ri and R2 are linear and saturated and have independently of one another a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20, in which Ri represents an acyl group and R2 represents an alkyl group, and (2) at least one anionic surfactant, and (3) at least one base capable of partially or completely neutralizing the anionic surfactant, and (4) at least one vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer, and (5) at least one semi-crystalline polymer, and (6) an aqueous phase, and (7) at least one film-forming polymer in the form of solid particles suspended in the aqueous phase, and (8) at least one filler having a water absorption capacity < 200 mL / 100 g measured by the wet point method at 25°C; and (9) at least one water-soluble liquid polyol.

2. The composition according to claim 1, containing less than 5% by weight and preferably less than 3% by weight of waxes relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein, The linear fatty acid monoester (1) is chosen from arachidic acid arachidate and behenic acid behenate, and preferably the linear fatty acid monoester is behenic acid behenate.

4. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least 5.0% by weight, preferably at least 6.0% by weight, better still at least 7.0% by weight of linear fatty acid monoester (1) relative to the total weight of the composition; in particular, the content of linear fatty acid monoester ranges from 6.0% to 35.0% by weight, preferably from 7.0% to 30.0% by weight, more particularly from 8.0% to 28.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The anionic surfactant is present in a content ranging from 3.5% to 20.0% by weight, more preferentially from 4.0% to 20.0% by weight, better still from 4.5% to 15.0% by weight, even better still from 5.0% to 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The anionic surfactant (2) is chosen from: - C12-C20 monoalkyl phosphates; - fatty acids containing from 14 to 20 carbon atoms; - mixtures thereof.

7. The composition according to claim 6, comprising at least a stearic acid anionic surfactant with the INCI name stearic acid neutralized with aminomethyl propanediol.

8. The composition according to claim 6, comprising at least a monocetyl phosphate anionic surfactant in the form of its complete neutralization with potassium hydroxide (KOH), i.e. the potassium salt of monocetyl phosphate, with the INCI name potassium cetyl phosphate.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 6 to 8, comprising a mixture of the potassium salt of monocetyl phosphate with the INCI name potassium cetyl phosphate and stearic acid neutralized with aminomethyl propanediol.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and eicosene (4) in a concentration ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least 2.0% by weight, preferably from 3.0% to 20.0% by weight, better still from 4.0% to 15.0% by weight, or even from 5.0% to 15.0% by total weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of semi-crystalline polymer (5).

12. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein, said semi-crystalline polymer (5) being derived from monomers containing crystallizable chains chosen from (meth)acrylic acid saturated C10 to C30 alkyl esters, and more particularly from poly(stearic acrylate), poly(behenic acrylate), and mixtures thereof.

13. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein, said semi-crystalline polymer (5) being poly(behenic acrylate).

14. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein, said film-forming polymer in the form of particles suspended in water is present in a solid content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising an aqueous dispersion of solid particles of film-forming acrylic polymer, in particular with the INCI name: Acrylates Copolymer.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising water in a content of at least 30.0% by weight, better still at least 40.0% by weight, or even from 50% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein, said filler (8) with a water absorption capacity < 200 mL / 100 g is chosen from inorganic fillers, organic fillers, and mixtures thereof.

18. The composition of claim 17, wherein, said inorganic filler (8) is chosen from: - clays, such as those with the following INCI names: Magnesium Aluminum Silicate; Moroccan Lava Clay; Sodium Calcium Aluminum Silicate; - talc; - kaolin; - mica of natural origin, untreated; - synthetic mica, such as those with the following INCI name: Synthetic Fluorophlogopite; - chemically treated mica, such as the product with the following INCI name: Mica (and) Isostearyl Neopentanoate (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Aluminum Chlorohydrate; - calcium carbonate; - boron nitride; - bismuth oxychloride; - glass beads with the following INCI name: Glass Beads; - uncoated or coated spherical silica powder.

19. The composition of claim 17, wherein, said organic filler (8) is chosen from: - raw starch; - chemically modified starches such as potato starch modified with sodium ethylaminodipropionate, having the following INCI name: Modified Potato Starch; corn starch esterified with an aluminum salt of octenyl succinic anhydride, having the following INCI name: Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate; hydroxypropylated corn starch phosphate having the following INCI name: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate; crosslinked sodium carboxymethyl potato starch having the following INCI name: Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch Cross- Celled; acetylated and oxidized tapioca starch having the following INCI name: Oxidized Starch Acetate; composite starch and sodium polyacrylate powder having the following INCI name: Sodium Polyacrylate Starch; - silicone elastomer powders such as those having the following INCI names: Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer; those having the following INCI name: Diphenylsiloxy Dimethicone / Vinyl Diphenylsiloxy Dimethicone / Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer; - cellulose powders such as crystalline cellulose powders having the following INCI names: Microcrystalline Cellulose; Cellulose having the following INCI name: Cellulose; - acrylic powders such as those having the following INCI names: Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer (and) Liquid Paraffin; those having the following INCI name: Methyl Methacrylate; those having the following INCI name: Styrene / Acrylic Acid Copolymer; - polyurethane powders such as those having the following INCI name: HDI / Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer; - silk fibroin powder having the following INCI name: Silk Powder.

20. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The filler (8) having a water absorption capacity < 200 mL / 100 g is chosen from kaolin, spherical silica powder, the crosslinked sodium carboxymethyl potato starch having the following INCI name: Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch Cross-Celled, and mixtures thereof.

21. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The filler (8) having a water absorption capacity < 200 mL / 100 g is preferably present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight and more preferentially from 0.5% to 3% relative to the total weight of the composition.

22. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The water-soluble liquid polyol is 1,3-butanediol having the following INCI name: Butylene Glycol.

23. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The water-soluble liquid polyol is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 6% by weight and more preferentially from 1% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

24. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one dye, preferably chosen from powdered materials, liposoluble dyes and water-soluble dyes; preferably chosen from metal oxides; more particularly from iron oxides, and more particularly black iron oxide (CI 77499).

25. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one fatty alcohol; preferably chosen from linear and saturated C14-C30 fatty alcohols; better still from linear and saturated C14-C24 fatty alcohols; more particularly from linear and saturated C14-C20 fatty alcohols; even better still from cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

26. The composition of claim 25, wherein, said fatty alcohol is present in an amount ranging from 1.0% to 20.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2.0% to 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and even more particularly from 3.0% to 10.0% by weight.

27. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one water-soluble film-forming polymer, preferably a vinylpyrrolidone homopolymer.

28. The composition of claim 27, comprising from 0.1% to 15.0% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10.0% by weight and better still from 1.0% to 8.0% by weight of hydrophilic film-forming polymer relative to the total weight of the composition.

29. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, having a solid content of at least 25.0% by weight, and preferably at least 30.0% by weight, or even from 30.0% to 60.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

30. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, having a consistency at 25°C characterized in that the hardness is > 20 g, preferably ranging from 20 to 200 g, even more preferentially ranging from 30 to 150 g.

31. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, in the form of a mascara product such as a mascara, an eyebrow product or a product for the eye contour such as a kohl.

32. A kit or assembly for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers, comprising: - a packaging device comprising a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 31, - an applicator for the composition.

33. A method for coating keratin materials, in particular the skin around the eyelashes, the skin around the eyebrows, and keratin fibers such as the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, comprising a step of applying to said keratin materials at least one composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 31.

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