Dispersion comprising pigment and at least two lipophilic gelling agents

Abstract

The invention relates to a dispersion comprising a fat phase in the form of droplets dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, preferably in the form of a gel, the fat phase comprising at least one pigment and / or at least one reflective particle, and at least two preferably heat-sensitive lipophilic gelling agents.

Description

[0001] The object of this invention is to stabilize dispersions comprising macroscopic droplets of a dispersed fatty phase containing at least one pigment and at least two lipophilic gelling agents. This invention also covers compositions containing said dispersions, particularly cosmetics, and their uses in the cosmetic field.

[0002] Colored dispersions of macroscopic droplets of aliphatic phase dispersed in an aqueous phase are currently available, particularly those disclosed in WO2019 / 053236. These dispersions are obtained, in particular, using microfluidic methods. Such dispersions are visually distinctive and attractive, combining high hiding power with hydration.

[0003] Dispersions of macroscopic droplets are sensitive to droplet shearing or breakage. To overcome this drawback, known methods involve implementing these dispersions in packaging requiring a specific airless atmosphere, which limits their use. To address this issue, application WO 2017 / 046305 discloses the addition of a gelling agent to the dispersed fatty phase, which allows for the acquisition of stable dispersions with improved mechanical strength, thus making them particularly less susceptible to shearing or breakage during transport. However, the presence of pigments in the dispersed fatty phase of such dispersions can lead to leakage of the encapsulated oil into the continuous aqueous phase. This phenomenon is exacerbated in the presence of dispersions with macroscopically sized fatty phase droplets, or may even occur only in such cases.

[0004] For obvious reasons, this drawback is undesirable. In fact, these oil leaks can lead to:

[0005] - Leakage of the encapsulated active ingredient may compromise the integrity of the active ingredient or even lead to undesirable reactions with other active ingredients present in the continuous aqueous phase;

[0006] - The hardness of dispersed fatty phase droplets increases due to their reduced oil load, which may alter the sensory properties and application comfort of the dispersion.

[0007] - Changes in droplet size; and

[0008] - Turbidity of the continuous aqueous phase, aggregation of dispersed phase droplets, and / or adhesion of droplets to the packaging wall by forming oil bridges.

[0009] All of these drawbacks can negatively impact the stability, application comfort, and visual appeal of these dispersions. Visual appeal is a very important decision-making criterion (and therefore a purchasing criterion) in the cosmetics industry.

[0010] Therefore, there is a need for new colored dispersions containing macroscopic droplets that do not have the aforementioned drawbacks.

[0011] More generally, the development of more stable, comfortable to apply, and aesthetically pleasing color dispersions, especially in the cosmetics industry, remains a constant goal.

[0012] In addition, background art documents FR 3 129 286 (WO2023094468) and FR 3 129 287 may be cited, which provide a dispersion comprising a fatty phase in the form of droplets dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase.

[0013] Background art document FR 3 083 1 18 may also be mentioned, which aims to provide a composition comprising at least: a) a polymeric lipophilic gelling agent derived from castor oil, and b) one or more organic UV filters in a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0014] You can also cite background technical document EP 2 997 955, which provides a water-in-oil cosmetic.

[0015] However, these documents do not provide solutions for obtaining dispersions of colored macroscopic spherical droplets, specifically dispersions that can be manufactured using microfluidic methods without undesirable process instability, while providing satisfactory stability, application comfort, and visual appeal.

[0016] Therefore, the object of the present invention is to provide stable droplets, particularly colored dispersions of macroscopic droplets, wherein leakage and potential drawbacks of the oil disclosed below are reduced or even overcome, and the manufacturing method thereof, particularly the microfluidic method, is not negatively affected and is therefore considered stable.

[0017] This application discloses a dispersion comprising or even containing a fatty phase in the form of droplets dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, preferably in the form of a gel, the fatty phase comprising at least one pigment and at least two lipophilic gelling agents, preferably heat-sensitive gelling agents, the at least two lipophilic gelling agents being most particularly selected from:

[0018] - At least one sugar / polysaccharide fatty acid ester;

[0019] - At least one lipophilic polyurethane gelling agent, preferably selected from castor oil / IPDI copolymer (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride, caprylic / capric triglyceride (and) polyurethane-79 and / or caprylic / capric triglyceride (and) hydrogenated poly(C6-20 olefin) (and) HDI / trimethylolcaprolactone crosspolymer; or

[0020] - At least one pasty fatty substance selected from waxes, butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0021] This application also discloses a dispersion in which two lipophilic gelling agents are selected from:

[0022] - A first lipophilic gelling agent, wherein the first lipophilic gelling agent is selected from at least one sugar / polysaccharide fatty acid ester; and

[0023] - A second lipophilic polyurethane gelling agent, preferably selected from castor oil / IPDI copolymer (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride, caprylic / capric triglyceride (and) polyurethane-79, caprylic / capric triglyceride (and) hydrogenated poly(C6-20 olefin) (and) HDI / trimethylolcaprolactone crosspolymer or at least one paste-like fatty substance selected from waxes, butter and mixtures thereof.

[0024] This invention relates to a dispersion comprising or even containing a droplet-like fatty phase dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, preferably in gel form, the fatty phase comprising at least one pigment and / or at least one reflective particle, and at least two lipophilic gelling agents, preferably heat-sensitive gelling agents, wherein the at least two lipophilic gelling agents are selected from:

[0025] - At least one sugar / polysaccharide fatty acid ester;

[0026] - At least one lipophilic polyurethane gelling agent, preferably selected from castor oil / IPDI copolymer (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride, caprylic / capric triglyceride (and) polyurethane-79 and / or caprylic / capric triglyceride (and) hydrogenated poly(C6-20 olefin) (and) HDI / trimethylolcaprolactone crosspolymer; and

[0027] - At least one type of wax.

[0028] Preferably, the present invention relates to dispersions in which the two lipophilic gelling agents are selected from:

[0029] - A first lipophilic gelling agent, wherein the first lipophilic gelling agent is selected from at least one sugar / polysaccharide fatty acid ester; and

[0030] - A second lipophilic polyurethane gelling agent, preferably selected from castor oil / IPDI copolymer (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride, caprylic / capric triglyceride (and) polyurethane-79, caprylic / capric triglyceride (and) hydrogenated poly(C6-20 olefin) (and) HDI / trimethylolcaprolactone crosspolymer or at least one wax.

[0031] In the remainder of the instruction manual, the dispersed aliphatic phase droplets are interchangeably referred to as "droplet G1".

[0032] The dispersion of the present invention has the advantage of stability, particularly over time and during transport. For the purposes of this invention, "stability" means the absence of emulsification or sedimentation of dispersed phase droplets in the continuous phase, the absence of turbidity in the continuous aqueous phase, the absence of droplet aggregation, and especially the absence of droplet coalescence or Ostwald ripening, and the absence of leakage of substances from the dispersed phase to the continuous phase, or vice versa, and especially the absence of oil leakage from the dispersed phase to the continuous phase.

[0033] As can be seen from the following examples, the presence of at least two lipophilic gelling agents in the dispersion according to the invention reduces or even prevents oil leakage and potential drawbacks, which allows the stability, application comfort and visual appearance of the dispersion according to the invention to be maintained or even improved.

[0034] Furthermore, as shown in Example 4 below, a gelling system having at least two of the gelling agents mentioned above is used to make it compatible with the manufacturing method, especially the microfluidic method, without the undesirable instability of the method, and enables the realization of macroscopic spherical droplet dispersions, which is different from solid or liquid butter-type lipophilic gelling agents.

[0035] Therefore, the inventors have surprisingly discovered that the presence of at least two lipophilic gelling agents in the dispersion makes it possible to harmonize the manufacturing methods (especially microfluidic methods) with the stability, application comfort, and visual appearance of the dispersion according to the invention, or even improve them.

[0036] Advantageously, the droplets of the dispersion according to the invention are macroscopic droplets, that is, droplets that are visible to the naked eye, as opposed to microscopic droplets that are invisible to the naked eye.

[0037] Advantageously, in the dispersion according to the invention, the volume of droplets with a diameter greater than or equal to 100 μm, or even greater than or equal to 200 μm, more preferably greater than or equal to 300 μm, particularly greater than or equal to 400 μm, preferably greater than or equal to 500 μm, or even greater than or equal to 1000 μm, or even from 100 μm to 3000 μm, more preferably from 200 μm to 2000 μm, particularly from 300 μm to 1500 μm, more preferably from 500 μm to 1000 μm, accounts for greater than or equal to 60% of the total volume of the dispersed phase, or even greater than or equal to 70%, preferably greater than or equal to 70%. 80%, more preferably greater than or equal to 90%, and / or at least 60%, or even at least 70%, preferably at least 80%, more preferably at least 90% of the droplets have an average diameter greater than or equal to 100 μm, or even greater than or equal to 200 μm, more preferably greater than or equal to 300 μm, particularly greater than or equal to 400 μm, preferably greater than or equal to 500 μm, or even greater than or equal to 1000 μm, or even from 100 μm to 3000 μm, more preferably from 200 μm to 2000 μm, particularly from 300 μm to 1500 μm, more preferably from 500 μm to 1000 μm.

[0038] Preferably, the dispersion of the present invention consists of a group of monodisperse droplets G1, and in particular, they have a coefficient of variation Cv of less than 10%, or even less than 3%.

[0039] In the context of this specification, "monodispersive droplet" refers to a group of droplets G1 in a dispersion according to the invention having a uniform size distribution. Monodisperse droplets have good monodispersity. Conversely, droplets with poor monodispersity are referred to as "polydisperse".

[0040] The average droplet diameter is measured, for example, according to the method disclosed in WO2021234135.

[0041] The coefficient of variation Cv of the droplet G1 diameter is advantageously less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, or even less than 3%.

[0042] To obtain monodisperse droplets, microfluidics can also be implemented (Utada et al., MRS Bulletin 32, 702-708 (2007); Cramer et al., Chem. Eng. Sci. 59, 15, 3045-3058 (2004)), more specifically, co-flow (fluids flow in the same direction) or flow-focusing (fluids flow in different directions, usually in opposite directions) microfluidic devices, especially by the fabrication methods disclosed below.

[0043] Determining the volume of a droplet with a specific diameter relative to the total volume of the dispersed phase falls within the general knowledge of those skilled in the art, especially with respect to the diameter measurement method disclosed above.

[0044] In the context of this invention, the above-described dispersions may be interchangeably referred to as "emulsions".

[0045] Additionally, the droplets advantageously possess apparent monodispersity (i.e., they are perceived by the eye as spheres of the same diameter). The droplets are advantageously substantially spherical.

[0046] According to the invention, the pH of the dispersion is typically 4.0 to 8.0, particularly 5.0 to 7.0.

[0047] Unless otherwise stated, the following is based on ambient temperature (e.g., T = 25℃ ± 2℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e., 1013.10). 5 Pa or 10 13 mbar).

[0048] The viscosity of the compositions according to the present invention can vary significantly, thereby obtaining a variety of textures.

[0049] According to one embodiment, the dispersion according to the invention has a viscosity in the range of 500 mPa·s to 300,000 mPa·s, preferably 1,000 mPa·s to 200,000 mPa·s, more preferably 2,500 mPa·s to 100,000 mPa·s, and more particularly 5,000 mPa·s to 50,000 mPa·s, measured at 25°C.

[0050] Viscosity was measured at ambient temperature and ambient pressure using the method disclosed in WO2017046305.

[0051] According to specific embodiments, the dispersions according to the invention, particularly the continuous aqueous phase, do not contain any surfactants.

[0052] dispersion

[0053] The dispersions according to the invention, particularly the continuous aqueous phase, are liquids at ambient temperature and pressure. In other words, the dispersions according to the invention are not in solid form, especially not in powder, non-powder, non-castable, or non-rod-shaped form.

[0054] The fatty phase droplets G1 of the dispersion according to the present invention can be monophase or multiphase.

[0055] Droplet G1 can be a sphere or a capsule. A "sphere" refers to a shell-less droplet in which the dispersed fatty phase is in direct contact with the continuous aqueous phase.

[0056] In the case where droplet G1 is a capsule, the droplet comprises a core (which contains at least a fatty phase) and a shell (or membrane or outer shell) that completely encapsulates the core. In other words, the dispersed fatty phase is not in direct contact with the continuous aqueous phase.

[0057] A droplet itself may contain one or more phases.

[0058] All or some of the pigments present in the dispersion according to the invention are in the fatty phase forming the core.

[0059] According to one embodiment, the droplets of the dispersion according to the invention comprise a liquid or at least partially gelled or at least partially thixotropic core, and optionally a shell that completely encapsulates the core, the core being single-phase and formed at least of a dispersed fatty phase. Droplets of this type then form a simple dispersion comprising two distinct phases: an inner phase represented by a fatty phase, and an outer phase preferably in a gelled state, surrounding the inner phase and represented by an aqueous phase.

[0060] According to another specific embodiment, the droplets of the dispersion according to the invention comprise a liquid or at least partially gelled or at least partially thixotropic core, and optionally a shell that completely encapsulates the core, the core comprising an intermediate droplet of an intermediate phase and at least one (preferably a single) internal droplet of an internal phase disposed within the intermediate droplet, the intermediate phase and / or at least one of the internal phases forming an aliphatic phase, and a pigment present in at least the aliphatic phase.

[0061] Advantageously, the mesophase is oily, and the inner phase is aqueous or formed from different oil phases that are immiscible with the mesophase at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. This type of droplet then forms a complex dispersion, meaning that the core contains a single intermediate droplet of the mesophase, and at least one (preferably single) inner droplet of the inner phase arranged within the intermediate droplet.

[0062] According to one variant, the core comprises an intermediate phase of droplets containing multiple internal phases.

[0063] According to a specific implementation plan:

[0064] - The continuous aqueous phase itself can be in the form of a direct emulsion (oil-in-water), which comprises a continuous aqueous phase and a dispersed fatty phase in the form of droplets (G2), the size of which is preferably smaller than that of the droplets (G1);

[0065] And / or

[0066] - The fatty phase itself can be in the form of an inverse emulsion (water in oil) comprising a continuous fatty phase and a dispersed aqueous phase in the form of droplets (G3), the size of which must be smaller than that of the droplets (G1), and preferably microscopic.

[0067] Specifically, the size of the droplets (G2) and / or (G3) is less than 500 μm, preferably less than 400 μm, particularly less than 250 μm, more preferably less than 150 μm, particularly less than 100 μm, or even less than 20 μm, more preferably less than 10 μm. Preferably, the size of the droplets (G2) and / or (G3) is from 0.1 μm to 200 μm, preferably from 0.25 μm to 100 μm, particularly from 0.5 μm to 50 μm, preferably from 1 μm to 20 μm, more preferably from 1 μm to 10 μm, or even from 3 μm to 5 μm.

[0068] Optionally, the droplets (G2) and / or (G3) comprise a shell formed of at least one anionic polymer and at least one cationic polymer, as defined below.

[0069] Advantageously, droplets (G2) and / or (G3) are not macroscopic, but microscopic, i.e., invisible to the naked eye. In other words, droplets (G2) and / or (G3) are different from and unrelated to droplet (G1).

[0070] These smaller droplets (G2) and / or (G3) have an impact on texture. In fact, dispersions according to the invention containing such finely dispersed droplets (G2) and / or (G3) have improved creamy quality.

[0071] Advantageously, droplets (G2) and / or (G3) may contain at least one pigment that is the same as or different from the pigment present in the fatty phase of droplet (G1).

[0072] Advantageously, the intermediate phase comprises at least one gelling agent, particularly a lipophilic gelling agent, especially as defined below. The gelling agent particularly helps to improve the suspension of the internal droplets disposed within the intermediate droplets, and thus improves the stability of the dispersion according to the invention according to this embodiment.

[0073] Continuous aqueous phase

[0074] According to one embodiment, the continuous aqueous phase has a viscosity of 500 mPa·s to 300,000 mPa·s, preferably 1,000 mPa·s to 200,000 mPa·s, more preferably 2,500 mPa·s to 100,000 mPa·s, and more particularly 5,000 mPa·s to 50,000 mPa·s, measured at 25°C.

[0075] The viscosity was measured according to the method disclosed above.

[0076] The continuous aqueous phase contains at least water. In addition to distilled or deionized water, the water suitable for use in this invention can also be natural spring water or floral water.

[0077] According to one embodiment, the weight percentage of water in the continuous aqueous phase is at least 30%, preferably at least 40%, particularly at least 50%, more preferably at least 60%, especially 70% to 98%, and most preferably 75% to 95%, relative to the total weight of the continuous aqueous phase.

[0078] The continuous aqueous phase of the dispersion according to the invention may further contain at least one base, particularly when the continuous aqueous phase contains at least one pH-dependent hydrophilic gelling agent (e.g., carbomer), thereby increasing viscosity. It may contain a single base or a mixture of several different bases. According to one embodiment, the base present in the aqueous phase is a mineral base, particularly selected from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides and alkaline earth metal hydroxides. Preferably, the mineral base is an alkali metal hydroxide, particularly NaOH. According to one embodiment, the base present in the aqueous phase is an organic base. Among organic bases, examples such as ammonia, pyridine, triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanol, or triethylamine may be mentioned.

[0079] The dispersion according to the invention may contain 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight, and most preferably 0.1% to 1% by weight of an alkali, preferably a mineral alkali, especially NaOH, relative to the total weight of the dispersion.

[0080] Dispersed fatty phase

[0081] The dispersion of the liquid droplet G1 form of the dispersion according to the invention comprises at least one pigment and at least two different lipophilic gelling agents.

[0082] Preferably, the dispersion according to the invention may contain a fatty phase of 1% to 60% by weight, preferably 5% to 50% by weight, particularly 10% to 40% by weight, and especially 15% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion.

[0083] Advantageously, the dispersed fatty phase may also contain at least one oil, and is interchangeably referred to as the "oil phase".

[0084] Oil

[0085] "Oil" refers to fatty substances that are liquid at ambient temperature.

[0086] Examples of oils used in the compositions of the present invention include:

[0087] - Hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as jojoba oil, sunflower oil, flaxseed oil, perilla oil, safranin oil, rosehip oil, rapeseed oil, sweet almond oil, corn oil, almond oil, castor oil, and meadowfoam seed oil (INCI: Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) seed oil), optionally hydrogenated;

[0088] - Hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as fully hydrogenated squalene and squalane;

[0089] - Synthetic esters and ethers, especially synthetic esters and ethers of fatty acids, such as oils of the formula R1COOR2 and R1OR2, where R1 represents C8 to C9. 29 The fatty acid residues, and R2 represents the branched or unbranched C3 to C4. 30 Hydrocarbon chains, such as Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isodecanyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, and isostearate; hydroxy esters, such as isostearate lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyl dodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearate malate, triisoceryl citrate, fatty alcohol heptanoates, caprylates, and decanoates; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, and diethylene glycol diisonononate; and pentaerythritol esters, such as pentaerythritol tetrabenzyl ester (DUB PTB) or pentaerythritol tetraisostearate (Prisorine 3631).

[0090] - Straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as volatile or non-volatile kerosene and its derivatives, petrolatum, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutylene such as Parleam oil;

[0091] - Silicone oils, such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having straight or cyclic siloxane chains, which are liquid or paste at ambient temperature, especially cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethylsiloxanes), such as cyclohexylsiloxane and cyclopentylsiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethyl silicone oils) containing alkyl, alkoxy, or phenyl groups having 2 to 24 carbon atoms in the side chains or at the ends of the silicone chain; phenylenedilicates, such as phenyltrimethylsiloxane, phenyldimethylsiloxane, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyldimethylsiloxane, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicate, and polymethylphenylsiloxane;

[0092] - Fatty alcohols with 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof (cetearyl alcohol), or even octyldodecanool;

[0093] - Certain hydrocarbons and / or silicone fluorinated oils, such as those disclosed in document JP-A-2-295912; and

[0094] - and their mixtures.

[0095] Preferably, the dispersion according to the invention does not contain animal-derived hydrocarbon oils, hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

[0096] Those skilled in the art will know how to adjust the properties and / or content of the oil, especially to ensure satisfactory dissolution (or homogenization) of pigments and lipophilic gelling agents.

[0097] The dispersion according to the invention advantageously contains 10% to 98% by weight, particularly 20% to 90% by weight, preferably 30% to 80% by weight, more preferably 40% to 70% by weight, and especially 50% to 60% by weight of oil relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

[0098] pigment

[0099] According to a specific embodiment, the fatty phase of the dispersion according to the invention comprises at least one pigment. Using several pigments allows for subtle variations in the color of the fatty phase of the droplets, and thus the color of the dispersion, as needed.

[0100] "Pigment" refers to a chemical coloring substance that is insoluble in the phase in which the pigment is present. "Insoluble" means that the pigment has a solubility of less than 1 g / L in the phase in which the pigment is present at 20°C, especially less than 0.1 g / L, and preferably less than 0.001 g / L.

[0101] Each pigment can be independently an organic, inorganic, or organic-inorganic hybrid pigment. They are typically inorganic pigments.

[0102] The coloration imparted by the dispersion according to the invention can be measured, for example, by spectral colorimetry and / or spectrophotometric colorimetry.

[0103] Covering power corresponds to the composition's ability to "cover skin" / "hide blemishes". The covering power of a composition can be measured according to the method disclosed in WO2019053236.

[0104] Pigments include, in particular, titanium dioxide, zinc dioxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, as well as iron oxide or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine, chromium hydrate and iron blue, and mixtures thereof. Preferred mineral pigments are iron oxides, especially red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, brown iron oxide, black iron oxide, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof.

[0105] The pigment is preferably iron oxide, especially red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, brown iron oxide, black iron oxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0106] Each pigment can be either untreated or treated. For the purposes of this application, "treated pigment" refers to a pigment that has been treated with additives to improve its dispersibility in oily or aqueous compositions, particularly using one of the additives defined below. "Untreated pigment" or "unprocessed pigment" refers to a pigment that has not been treated with such additives.

[0107] According to the first alternative, the pigments used are untreated and unground pigments (pigments used "as is").

[0108] According to the second alternative, the pigments used have undergone pretreatment to make them easier to disperse during pigment formulation, i.e., more easily dispersed in the phase in question. This pretreatment includes grinding the pigments and / or pretreating them with additives to improve their dispersibility before formulation into a series of colored particles.

[0109] Use ground pigments and / or pigments pretreated with additives that improve pigment dispersibility:

[0110] - Contributes to the low viscosity of liquids containing ground and / or pretreated pigments.

[0111] - It facilitates the preparation of dispersions in which the dispersed fatty phase has a very high pigment content, for example, containing more than 25% by weight, particularly more than 30% by weight, or even more than 35% by weight, of pigment relative to the weight of the dispersed fatty phase.

[0112] - Helps reduce or even prevent pigment sedimentation in phases containing them, and / or

[0113] - It helps reduce or even prevent pigments from agglomerating in the phase containing them.

[0114] Typically, when using several pigments, they all undergo the same treatment, i.e., they are all ground and / or pretreated. However, it is also possible that some are ground but untreated, while others are treated and ground or unground.

[0115] According to the first embodiment based on the second alternative, at least one pigment is pretreated with an additive that improves pigment dispersibility.

[0116] The properties of additives used to improve pigment dispersibility depend on the hydrophilic or lipophilic nature of the phase containing the treated pigment.

[0117] When a dispersion uses several pretreated pigments, these pigments can be pretreated with the same or different additives.

[0118] Additives that improve the dispersibility of pigments in the fatty phase are selected from, for example, hydrogenated lecithin, silicone, waxes, amino acids or their salts and amino acid esters or their salts, and mixtures thereof, as disclosed, for example, in WO2019 / 053236. Preferred amino acids are cystine, and preferred amino acid esters are sodium cocoyl glutamate, lauroyl arginine, or lauroyl lysine. Hydrophobic surface treatments based on avocado butter are also available, such as Sensient's UNIPURE pigments.

[0119] In this first embodiment according to the second alternative scheme using pretreated pigments, the pretreated pigments may then include a grinding step or not. Such grinding reduces or even eliminates the aggregation of the pretreated pigments, which facilitates their subsequent incorporation into the phase and / or helps reduce pigment sedimentation in the phase containing them.

[0120] This grinding step can be performed in the presence of a binder, or in the absence of a binder (dry grinding).

[0121] Preferably, when the pigment is treated with an additive that improves its dispersibility in the oil phase, the binder is selected from octyldodecanool, castor oil, mineral oil, isononyl isononate, polydimethylsiloxane and cyclopolymethylsiloxane, isododecane and mixtures thereof.

[0122] Grinding mills are typically selected from three-roll mills, ball mills, and plate mills.

[0123] When the grinding step is carried out in the absence of a binder, the grinding mill can be a pin mill, jet mill, impact mill, hammer mill, shredder, ball mill, vibratory mill, or cryogenic mill.

[0124] According to a second embodiment based on a second alternative, at least one pigment is not pretreated with additives that enhance its dispersibility, and the method then includes a pigment grinding step. This grinding reduces or even eliminates the aggregation of the pretreated pigment, which facilitates its subsequent incorporation into the phase and / or helps reduce pigment sedimentation in the phase containing it.

[0125] The above-disclosed implementation scheme for grinding is of course applicable (regardless of the type of grinding machine or the presence or absence of adhesive).

[0126] Advantageously, the dispersion according to the invention comprises 1% to 60% by weight, preferably 5% to 50% by weight, particularly 10% to 40% by weight, more particularly 15% to 35% by weight, preferably 20% to 35% by weight, and most particularly 25% to 35% by weight of pigment, relative to the total weight of the dispersed fatty phase.

[0127] The advantage of the dispersion according to the invention is that its aforementioned advantageous properties remain even when a high pigment content is present in the dispersed fatty phase. Therefore, the dispersion according to the invention advantageously contains a pigment content of greater than 25% by weight, or even greater than 30% by weight, or even greater than 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dispersed fatty phase.

[0128] Preferably, the fatty phase may also contain at least one pigment dispersant. Examples of pigment dispersants include hydroxystearic acid or polyhydroxystearic acid, such as those marketed by Phoenix Chemical under the name PELEMOL PHS-8 or by Lubrizol under the name Matrifuse S-1. Another example is MiyoFILM CCTG (INCI: dextrin isostearate (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride) marketed by Miyoshi.

[0129] Preferably, the dispersion according to the invention comprises 0.5% to 10% by weight, particularly 1.5% to 6% by weight, and more preferably 2% to 4% by weight of pigment dispersant relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

[0130] The presence of such specific compounds is advantageous because it reduces the viscosity of fatty phases containing at least one pigment (e.g., pigment / oil mill (60:40)), not to mention phases with high pigment content, thus making them fluid and easier to process, especially in fluid devices such as those disclosed below.

[0131] Reflective Particles

[0132] According to a specific embodiment, the fatty phase of the dispersion according to the present invention contains at least one reflective particle.

[0133] For the purposes of this invention, the term "reflective particle" refers to a particle whose size, structure (especially the thickness of its constituent layers and their physical and chemical properties), and surface condition enable it to reflect incident light. This reflection, where applicable, can have sufficient intensity to produce a visible highlight on the surface of the dispersion according to the invention (especially when the dispersion is applied to a keratinous substance), i.e., a brighter point that appears luminous and contrasts with its surroundings. In the context of this invention, the aforementioned reflective particles may be used interchangeably with the term "sheet."

[0134] According to a specific implementation scheme, the reflective particles have a "d / e" ratio greater than 10, where "d" represents the maximum size of the reflective particles and "e" represents the thickness of the reflective particles. Preferably, the ratio "d / e" between the maximum size and thickness of the reflective particles is greater than or equal to 10, particularly greater than or equal to 20, and more preferably greater than or equal to 50.

[0135] Regardless of their shape, the size of the reflective particles can range from 5 μm to 1000 μm, more preferably from 10 μm to 750 μm, particularly from 50 μm to 500 μm, and even more preferably from 100 μm to 250 μm. The particle size is preferably greater than or equal to 10 μm, more preferably greater than or equal to 20 μm, and even more preferably greater than or equal to 40 μm.

[0136] When the fatty phase of the dispersion according to the invention contains at least one pigment, for example, other than reflective particles, it is advantageous to select it so as not to significantly alter the coloring effect produced by the associated pigment, and more particularly to optimize the effect in terms of color rendering.

[0137] Reflective particles may be more specifically available in yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold, and / or copper colors or sheens. These reflective particles may come in a variety of shapes.

[0138] These particles can be, in particular, small flakes or spheres, especially spheres. Regardless of their shape, reflective particles may or may not have a multilayer structure, and in the case of a multilayer structure, they may have at least one layer of uniform thickness, especially a layer of reflective material. When reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed of, for example, metal oxides, such as titanium or iron oxides obtained through synthesis.

[0139] When reflective particles have a multilayer structure, they may include, for example, natural or synthetic substrates, particularly synthetic substrates at least partially coated with at least one layer of reflective material (especially at least one metal or metal compound). The substrate may be a single material, multiple materials, organic and / or inorganic.

[0140] More specifically, it can be selected from glass, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, alumina, silicon dioxide (especially aluminosilicates and borosilicates), synthetic mica, and mixtures thereof, and the list is non-exhaustive.

[0141] Reflective materials may include a metal layer or a metal compound layer.

[0142] Glass particles coated with a metal layer are particularly disclosed in documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.

[0143] As an example still containing reflective particles on a mineral substrate coated with a metal layer, one could also cite particles containing a borosilicate substrate coated with silver, also known as "white pearlescent" particles.

[0144] Small flake-shaped particles with a silver-coated glass substrate are sold by TOYAL under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX2025 PS 25. Glass substrate particles coated with a nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy are sold by the same company under the names CRYSTAL STARGF 550 and GF 2525.

[0145] Regardless of their shape, reflective particles may also be selected from particles having a synthetic substrate, which is at least partially coated with at least one layer of at least one metal compound (especially metal oxide), such as oxides of titanium (especially TiO2), iron (especially Fe2O3), tin, chromium, barium sulfate, and the following compounds: MgF2, CrF3, ZnS, ZnSe, SiO2, Al2O3, MgO, Y2O3, SeO3, SiO, HfO2, ZrO2, CeO2, Nb2O5, Ta2O5, MoS2, and mixtures or alloys thereof.

[0146] Examples of such particles may include, for instance, particles comprising a synthetic mica substrate coated with titanium dioxide, or glass particles coated with brown iron oxide, titanium oxide, tin oxide, or mixtures thereof, such as those produced by ENGELHARD with REFLECKS. ® Those involved in trademark sales.

[0147] Reflective particles may or may not be angle-dependent and / or interference-type.

[0148] The reflective particles can be selected from pearlescent agents, reflective interference particles, angle-dependent coloring agents 10, diffractive pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0149] "Pearlite" refers to coloring particles of any shape, whether iridescent or not, especially those produced or synthesized by certain mollusks in their shells, which produce color effects through optical interference.

[0150] Pearlizing agents can be selected from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with organic colorants (especially those of the above types), and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride are also applicable. They can also be mica particles having at least two consecutive metal oxide layers and / or organic colorant layers superimposed on their surface.

[0151] Pearlescent agents can more specifically have yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper colors or luster.

[0152] As an illustration, pearlescent agents that can be used in the context of this invention particularly include gold pearlescent agents, or especially those sold by ENGELHARD under the names Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite), and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze pearlescent agents, especially those sold by MERCK under the names Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona), and those sold by ENGELHARD under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); orange pearlescent agents, especially those sold by ENGELHARD under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica), and those sold by MERCK under the names Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte. Pearlescent agents sold under the name orange (17449) (Microna); brown pearlescent agents, especially those sold by ENGELHARD under the names Nu-AntiqueCopper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); copper-colored pearlescent agents, especially those sold by ENGELHARD under the name Copper 340A (Timica); pearlescent agents with a reddish luster, especially those sold by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); pearlescent agents with a yellowish luster, especially those sold by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); red pearlescent agents with a golden luster, especially those sold by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink pearlescent agents, especially those sold by ENGELHARD under the name Tan opale. Pearlizing agents sold under the name G005 (Gemtone); black pearlizing agents with a golden luster, especially those sold by ENGELHARD under the name Nu-Antique Bronze 240 AB (Timica); blue pearlizing agents, especially those sold by MERCK under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna); and white pearlizing agents with a silvery luster, especially those sold by MERCK under the name XironaSilver.And orange-rose pearlescent agents with a golden-green luster, especially those sold by MERCK under the name Indian Summer (Xirona); and mixtures thereof.

[0153] Other examples include glass-based reflective interference particles, such as Ronastar sold by MERCK, or synthetic mica-based interference particles, such as Sunshine sold by SUN CHEMICAL or PROMINENCE sold by NIKON KOKEN, and mixtures thereof.

[0154] Angle-dependent colorants can also be used as reflective particles, provided that the reagent meets the coloring effect requirements according to the invention, and furthermore, does not interfere with the visual perception of the composition in terms of color effect. Such angle-dependent colorants are particularly selected from multilayer interference structures.

[0155] For example, the angle-dependent heterochromatic pigment can be selected from multilayer interference structures, liquid crystal colorants, and mixtures thereof.

[0156] For example, a multilayer structure may include at least two layers, each layer being made of at least one material selected from the group consisting of: MgF2, CeF3, ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO2, Ge, Te, Fe2O3, Pi, Va, Al2O3, MgO, Y2O3, S2O3, SiO, HfO2, ZrO2, CeO2, Nb2Os, Ta2Os, TiO2, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, VSI, Zn, MoS2, cryolite, alloys, polymers, and combinations thereof.

[0157] The multilayer structure can optionally be symmetrical with respect to the central layer in terms of the chemical properties of the stacked layers.

[0158] Different effects can be achieved by varying the thickness and properties of different layers.

[0159] Examples of pigments with these structures are sold by MERCK (Darmstadt) under the trade name XIRONA.

[0160] For example, liquid crystal colorants contain silicone or cellulose ethers grafted with mesocrystalline groups. Examples of suitable angle-dependent color-changing liquid crystal particles are those sold by CHENTX, and those by VVACKER under the name HELICONE. ® Those sold under the HC brand name. Suitable angle-dependent color pigments are pearlescent agents; pigments effective on synthetic substrates, especially alumina, silica, borosilicate, iron oxide, or aluminum substrates; or interference particles from polyethylene terephthalate films.

[0161] The material may also contain dispersed angle-dependent color fibers. For example, such fibers may have a length of less than 80 μm.

[0162] The term "diffractive pigment" as used in this invention refers to a pigment that, when illuminated with white light, exhibits color changes based on the viewing angle due to the presence of a light diffraction structure. Such pigments are sometimes referred to as holographic pigments or rainbow effect pigments.

[0163] Diffractive pigments may include a diffraction matrix capable of diffracting monochromatic light in a predetermined direction, for example.

[0164] The diffraction matrix can include periodic patterns, particularly lines, with the distance between two adjacent patterns on the same order of magnitude as the wavelength of the incident light.

[0165] When the incident light is polychromatic, the diffraction matrix separates the different spectral components of the light, producing a rainbow effect. For the structure of diffractive pigments, please refer to the article "Pigments with diffractive effects" by Alberto Argoitia and Matt Witzman, 2002, Society of Vacuum Coaters, 45. th The contents of the Annual Technical Conference Proceedings are incorporated herein by reference.

[0166] Diffractive pigments can be produced using patterns with different contours, especially triangular, symmetrical or asymmetrical, zigzag, constant or non-constant width, sinusoidal or stepped patterns.

[0167] The spatial frequency of the matrix and the depth of the pattern will be selected based on the desired level of separation. For example, the frequency can range from 500 lines / mm to 3000 lines / mm.

[0168] Preferably, the diffractive pigment particles each have a flat shape, particularly in the form of small flakes. A single pigment particle may contain two intersecting diffraction gratings, which may or may not be perpendicular, and may or may not have the same spacing.

[0169] The diffractive pigment may have a multilayer structure, including a reflective material layer that is covered on at least one side by a dielectric material layer, or even completely encapsulated by a dielectric material layer. This layer can impart higher rigidity and durability to the diffractive pigment. Preferably, the dielectric material used is inorganic and may be selected, for example, from metal fluorides, metal oxides, metal sulfides, metal nitrides, metal carbides, and combinations thereof. The dielectric material may be crystalline, semi-crystalline, or amorphous. The dielectric material in such a configuration may be selected, for example, from the following materials: MgF2, SiO, SiO2, Al2O3, TiO2, WO3, AlN, BN, B4C, WC, TiC, TiN, N4Si3, ZnS, AlF3, CeF3, LaF3, NdF3, SmF2, BaF2, CaF2, LiF, glass particles, diamond, and combinations thereof.

[0170] Reflective materials may be selected from metals and their alloys, as well as non-metallic reflective materials. Metals that may be mentioned include Al, Ag, Cu, Au, Pt, Sn, Ti, Pd, Ni, Co, Rd, Nb, Cr, and materials, combinations thereof, or alloys thereof. Such reflective materials may be the sole component of the diffractive pigment, in which case it is a monolayer. Alternatively, the diffractive pigment may consist of dielectric or pre-formed ceramic materials, such as natural mineral flakes, for example perovskite mica or talc, or synthetic flakes formed from glass, alumina, SiO2, carbon, iron oxide / mica, mica coated with BN or BC, graphite, bismuth oxychloride, and combinations thereof.

[0171] Other materials that improve mechanical properties, replacing the dielectric layer, may also be suitable. Such materials may include silicones, metal silicides, semiconductor materials formed from group III, IV and V elements, metals with a cubic core crystal structure, metal-ceramic compositions or materials, semiconductor glasses, and various combinations thereof.

[0172] Diffractive pigments are particularly selected from those described in patent application US-2003 / 0031870, published February 13, 2003. Diffractive pigments may, for example, include the structure MgF2 / Al / MgF2, and diffractive pigments with this structure are sold by FLEXPRODUCTS under the trade names SPECTRAFLAIR 1400 Pigment Silver or SPECTRAFLAIR 1400 Pigment Silver FG. The weight percentage of MgF2 may be 80% to 95% of the total pigment weight. Other diffractive pigments are available from ECKART. ® With METALURE ® PRISMATIC is sold under the trade name. Other possible structures are Fe / Al / Fe or Al / Fe / Al.

[0173] The size of the diffractive pigment can be, for example, from 5 μm to 200 μm, more preferably from 5 μm to 100 μm, such as from 5 μm to 30 μm. The thickness of the diffractive pigment particles can be 3 μm or less, preferably 2 μm, such as about 1 μm.

[0174] Naturally, those skilled in the art will select the properties and / or amount of reflective particles based on the aqueous or fatty properties of the phase discussed in the dispersion according to the invention and / or on the method of manufacturing the dispersion. These adjustments fall within the scope of common knowledge for those skilled in the art.

[0175] Preferably, the dispersion according to the invention comprises 0.5% to 10% by weight, particularly 1.5% to 6% by weight, and more preferably 2% to 4% by weight of reflective particles relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

[0176] Lipophilic gelling agent

[0177] The fatty phase of the dispersion according to the invention comprises at least two lipophilic gelling agents different from the oil and pigment described above. The combination of these (at least) two lipophilic gelling agents, in addition to their ability to improve the mechanical strength of droplets, increase viscosity, and / or reduce or even prevent pigment sedimentation at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, unexpectedly improves the properties of the dispersion according to the invention in terms of leakage, adhesion, aggregation, and viscousness.

[0178] In the context of this invention, "gelling agent" means an agent that, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, increases the viscosity of a phase containing the gelling agent relative to the same phase without the gelling agent, and achieves, for example, a final viscosity of the phase greater than 2000 mPa·s, preferably greater than 4000 mPa·s, more preferably greater than 10,000 mPa·s, and most particularly greater than 100,000 mPa·s.

[0179] Preferably, the viscosity of the dispersed aliphatic phase is from 2,000 mPa·s to 100,000,000 mPa·s at 25°C, more preferably from 4,000 mPa·s to 1,000,000 mPa·s, and even more preferably from 10,000 mPa·s to 500,000 mPa·s.

[0180] "Lipophilic gelling agent" refers to a lipid-soluble or lipid-dispersible compound that can gel the fatty (or oil) phase of the dispersion according to the present invention.

[0181] Lipophilic gelling agents are advantageously heat-sensitive. The term "heat-sensitive gelling agent" refers to a reagent that, in the absence of the reagent, increases the viscosity of the fatty phase containing it, and that viscosity changes reversibly with respect to temperature.

[0182] The fatty phase of the dispersion disclosed in this application may contain at least two different lipophilic gelling agents selected from:

[0183] - At least one sugar / polysaccharide fatty acid ester;

[0184] - Castor oil / IPDI copolymer (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride, caprylic / capric triglyceride (and) polyurethane-79 and / or caprylic / capric triglyceride (and) hydrogenated poly(C6-20 olefin) (and) HDI / trimethylolcaprolactone crosspolymer; or

[0185] - At least one pasty fatty substance selected from waxes, butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0186] The fatty phase of the dispersion disclosed in this application may contain at least two different lipophilic gelling agents, wherein:

[0187] - The first lipophilic gelling agent is selected from at least one sugar / polysaccharide fatty acid ester; and

[0188] - The second lipophilic gelling agent is selected from castor oil / IPDI copolymer (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride, caprylic / capric triglyceride (and) polyurethane-79, caprylic / capric triglyceride (and) hydrogenated poly(C6-20 olefin) (and) HDI / trimethylolcaprolactone crosspolymer or at least one paste-like fatty substance selected from waxes, butter and mixtures thereof.

[0189] Preferably, the fatty phase of the dispersion according to the invention comprises at least two different lipophilic gelling agents selected from:

[0190] - At least one sugar / polysaccharide fatty acid ester;

[0191] - Castor oil / IPDI copolymer (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride, caprylic / capric triglyceride (and) polyurethane-79 and / or caprylic / capric triglyceride (and) hydrogenated poly(C6-20 olefin) (and) HDI / trimethylolcaprolactone crosspolymer; and

[0192] - At least one type of wax.

[0193] Preferably, the fatty phase of the dispersion according to the invention comprises at least two different lipophilic gelling agents, wherein:

[0194] - The first lipophilic gelling agent is selected from at least one sugar / polysaccharide fatty acid ester; and

[0195] - The second lipophilic gelling agent is selected from castor oil / IPDI copolymer (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride, caprylic / capric triglyceride (and) polyurethane-79, caprylic / capric triglyceride (and) hydrogenated poly(C6-20 olefin) (and) HDI / trimethylolcaprolactone crosspolymer or at least one wax.

[0196] In other words, the fatty phase of the dispersion according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent selected from at least one sugar / polysaccharide fatty acid ester.

[0197] Sugar / polysaccharide fatty acid esters

[0198] Preferably, the sugar / polysaccharide fatty acid ester is selected from dextrin fatty acid esters, inulin fatty acid esters, glycerol fatty acid esters and mixtures thereof, preferably from dextrin fatty acid esters, and particularly from dextrin palmitate.

[0199] According to one embodiment, the dextrin fatty acid ester according to the invention is a monoester or polyester of dextrin and at least one fatty acid, corresponding to the following formula (II):

[0200] [Chemical Formula 1]

[0201]

[0202] in:

[0203] ◦ n is an integer in the range of 2 to 200, preferably in the range of 20 to 150, and particularly in the range of 25 to 50.

[0204] ◦ Groups R4, R5, and R6 may be the same or different, and are selected from hydrogen or acyl-COR. a In which the group R a This indicates a straight-chain or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 5 to 50, preferably 5 to 25, carbon atoms.

[0205] The condition is that at least one of the groups R4, R5, or R6 is different from hydrogen.

[0206] According to one implementation, R4, R5, and R6 independently represent H or acyl-COR. a , where R a It is a hydrocarbon group as defined above, provided that at least two of the groups R4, R5, or R6 are the same and different from hydrogen.

[0207] According to one implementation, when groups R4, R5, and R6 (either the same or different) represent -COR aWhen the radical is selected, these radicals may be selected from octanoyl, hexanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearyl, eicosanyl, docosanyl, isovaleryl, 2-ethylbutyroyl, ethylmethylacetyl, isohepanoyl, 2-ethylhexanoyl, isononanoyl, isodecanyl, isothizoyl, isothizoyl, isothizoyl, isothizoyl, decenoyl, dodecenoyl, tetradecenoyl, myristoyl, hexadecenoyl, palmitoyl, oleyl, transoleyl, eicosanenoyl, sorbitol, linoleyl, linolenic acid acyl, arachidonic acid, stearyl, and mixtures thereof.

[0208] Examples of dextrin fatty acid esters include dextrin palmitate, dextrin myristate, dextrin palmitate / ethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof. These dextrin fatty acid esters particularly include those produced by Miyoshi Europe using Rheopearl... ® KL2 (INCI name: Dextrin Palmitate), Rheopearl ® TT2 (INCI name: Dextrin Palmitate Ethylhexanoate) and Rheopearl ® MKL2 ​​(INCI name: dextrin myristate) is a dextrin fatty acid ester sold under the name dextrin fatty acid ester, and dextrin palmitate is sold by The Innovation.

[0209] Examples of inulin fatty acid esters include those produced by Miyoshi Europe using Rheopearl. ® ISK2 or Rheopearl ® Those sold under the name ISL2 (INCI name: stearoyl inulin).

[0210] Glycerol fatty acid esters can be, in particular, monoesters, diesters, or triesters of glycerol and fatty acids. According to the present invention, glycerol fatty acid esters can be esters of glycerol and one fatty acid, or esters of a mixture of glycerol and fatty acids.

[0211] According to one implementation scheme, the fatty acids are selected from the group consisting of behenic acid, isooctadecanoic acid, stearic acid, eicosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0212] According to one embodiment, the ester of glycerol and fatty acids has the following formula (III):

[0213] [Chemical Formula 2]

[0214]

[0215] R1, R2 and R3 are independently selected from H and saturated alkyl chains containing 4 to 30 carbon atoms, and at least one of R1, R2 and R3 is different from H.

[0216] According to one implementation plan, R1, R2, and R3 are different.

[0217] According to one embodiment, R1, R2 and / or R3 represent saturated alkyl chains containing 4 to 30, preferably 12 to 22, and most preferably 18 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0218] According to one embodiment, the esters of glycerol and fatty acids correspond to compounds of formula (III), where R1=H and R2=C. 21 H 43 And R3=C 19 H 40 .

[0219] According to one embodiment, the glycerol fatty acid ester corresponds to the compound of formula (III), where R1=R2=R3=C 21 H 43 .

[0220] According to one embodiment, the glycerol fatty acid ester corresponds to the compound of formula (III), wherein R1=R2=H and R3=C. 19 H 40 .

[0221] According to one embodiment, the glycerol fatty acid ester corresponds to the compound of formula (III), wherein R1=R2=H and R3=C. 17 H 35 .

[0222] Examples of glycerol fatty acid esters are those sold by Nisshin Oillio under the names Nomcort HK-G (INCI name: behenic acid / eicosanoic acid glyceride) and Nomcort SG (INCI name: tri-behenic acid, isostearic acid, eicosanoic acid glyceride).

[0223] Polyurethane lipophilic gelling agent

[0224] As a lipophilic gelling agent, reference may be made to polyurethane lipophilic gelling agents (or polyurethane compounds capable of gelling at least one oil), such as those disclosed in WO2016 / 090081 and WO2018 / 185432.

[0225] As a polyurethane lipophilic gelling agent, products with INCIs of castor oil / IPDI copolymer and caprylic / capric triglyceride may be mentioned, especially those marketed by PolymerExpert under the names Estogel M or EMC 30. Products with INCIs of caprylic / capric triglyceride (and) polyurethane-79 may also be mentioned, especially those marketed by Lubrizol under the name OILKEMIA 5S. Products with INCIs of caprylic / capric triglyceride (and) hydrogenated poly(C6-20 olefin) (and) HDI / trimethylolcaprolactone crosspolymer may also be mentioned, especially those marketed by Lubrizol under OILKEMIA 5S CC.

[0226] Pasty fatty substances can be selected from synthetic compounds and / or plant-derived compounds. Pasty fatty substances can be synthesized from plant-derived starting materials. More specifically, pasty fatty substances are of plant origin.

[0227] wax

[0228] For the purposes of this invention, "wax" means a lipophilic compound that is solid at ambient temperature (25°C), has a reversible solid / liquid state change, and has a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C and at most 120°C.

[0229] The method for measuring this melting point is disclosed below.

[0230] The waxes that can be used in the compositions according to the invention may be selected from solid waxes of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin (whether or not they are deformable at ambient temperature) and mixtures thereof, preferably waxes of plant origin.

[0231] Hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, Ouricurry wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japanese wax and Bacillus thuringiensis wax, lignite wax, microcrystalline wax, kerosene and terrestrial wax, polyethylene wax, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, their waxy copolymers and esters, and mixtures thereof, preferably rice bran wax and / or sunflower wax.

[0232] Examples of catalytic hydrogenation involving straight-chain or branched C8-C atoms can also be cited. 32 Waxes obtained from animal or vegetable oils with fatty chains.

[0233] These oils include, in particular, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and hydrogenated lanolin oil; bis-(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane)tetrastearate sold by HETERENE under the name "HEST 2T-4S"; and bis-(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane)tetrabenzyl ester sold by HETERENE under the name HEST 2T-4B.

[0234] Waxes obtained through transesterification and hydrogenation of vegetable oils (such as castor oil or olive oil), such as those produced by SOPHIM using Phytowax ricin 16L64, can also be used. ® and 22L73 ® And waxes sold under the name Phytowax Olive 18L57. Such waxes are disclosed in application FR-A-2792190.

[0235] Silicone waxes can also be used, which may advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably having a low melting point.

[0236] This type of commercial silicone wax includes, in particular, those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (GOLDSCHMIDT), KF910 and KF7002 (SHIN ETSU) or 176-11 18-3 and 176-11481 (GENERAL ELECTRIC).

[0237] Silicone waxes can also be alkyl or alkoxy polydimethylsiloxane waxes, such as the following commercial products: Abilwax 2428, 2434 and 2440 (GOLDSCHMIDT), or VP 1622 and VP 1621 (WACKER), and (C 20 -C 60 ) alkyl polydimethylsiloxane, especially (C 30 -C 45 Alkyl polydimethylsiloxanes, such as silicone waxes sold by GE-Bayer Silicones under the name SF-1642.

[0238] Hydrocarbon waxes modified with silicone or fluorine groups can also be used, such as silyl candelilla wax, silyl beeswax and fluorinated beeswax from Koster Keunen.

[0239] The wax can also be selected from fluorinated waxes.

[0240] Butter or paste-like fatty substances

[0241] According to a specific embodiment, the fatty phase of the dispersion according to the present invention does not contain butter.

[0242] For the purposes of this invention, "butter" (also known as "paste-like fatty substance") is a lipophilic fatty compound that has a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprises a liquid portion and a solid portion at a temperature of 25°C and an atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0243] For example, butter or pasty fatty substances have anisotropic crystalline structures in the solid state, which can be observed by X-rays.

[0244] Examples of butter that contain both liquid and solid components at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) include, for example, C10-C18 triglycerides (INCI name: C10-18 triglycerides), shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Tengkawang butter (Shoreastenoptera), Sal tree butter, Illipe butter, Madhuca or Bassia Madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocatyum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, and Painya (Kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma). The following butters are included: butyracea, coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia temifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalusdulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao), and sunflower butter, butter with INCI name Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, butter with INCI name Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, and butter with INCI name Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter, jojoba ester (a blend of wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil) (INCI name: jojoba ester), and shea butter ethyl ester (INCI name: shea butter ethyl ester), as well as mixtures thereof.

[0245] Preferably, the fatty phase of the dispersion according to the invention does not contain butter, particularly liquid shea butter, such as Lipex sold by AAK AB, which is in liquid form at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). ® 205.

[0246] Preferably, the fatty phase of the dispersion according to the invention comprises at least two different lipophilic gelling agents selected from:

[0247] - At least one dextrin fatty acid ester;

[0248] - Castor oil / IPDI copolymer (and) caprylic / capric triglycerides; and

[0249] - At least one type of wax.

[0250] Even more preferably, the fatty phase of the dispersion according to the invention comprises at least two different lipophilic gelling agents, wherein:

[0251] - The first lipophilic gelling agent is selected from at least one dextrin fatty acid ester, and the second lipophilic gelling agent is selected from castor oil / IPDI copolymer (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride;

[0252] - The first lipophilic gelling agent is selected from at least one dextrin fatty acid ester, and the second lipophilic gelling agent is selected from at least one wax; or

[0253] - The first lipophilic gelling agent is selected from castor oil / IPDI copolymer (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride, and the second lipophilic gelling agent is selected from at least one wax.

[0254] According to a first preferred embodiment, the first lipophilic gelling agent is selected from at least one dextrin fatty acid ester, and the second lipophilic gelling agent is selected from castor oil / IPDI copolymer (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride.

[0255] According to the second preferred embodiment, the first lipophilic gelling agent is selected from at least one fatty acid dextrin ester, and the second lipophilic gelling agent is selected from at least one wax.

[0256] In other words, the fatty phase of the dispersion according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent selected from at least one dextrin fatty acid ester.

[0257] Preferably, especially for the first preferred embodiment described above, the two lipophilic gelling agents are present in the dispersed fatty phase at a weight ratio of "first lipophilic gelling agent / second lipophilic gelling agent" of 50:50 to 25:75, preferably 45:55 to 30:70, and more preferably 35:65 to 30:70.

[0258] According to the invention, the dispersion according to the invention may contain 1% to 30% by weight, preferably 2.5% to 20% by weight, particularly 5% to 12% by weight of a lipophilic gelling agent relative to the total weight of the dispersed fatty phase.

[0259] Added lipophilic gelling agent

[0260] The dispersion may also contain at least one additional lipophilic gelling agent different from the aforementioned lipophilic gelling agents.

[0261] Such additional lipophilic gelling agents may be selected from organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular gelling agents; and mixtures thereof. Such lipophilic gelling agents are particularly disclosed in WO2019002308.

[0262] According to the invention, the dispersion according to the invention may contain 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably 1% to 15% by weight, and particularly 2% to 10% by weight of an additional lipophilic gelling agent, relative to the total weight of the fatty phase containing the additional lipophilic gelling agent.

[0263] Naturally, those skilled in the art will carefully select any additional lipophilic gelling agents and / or their amounts so that the advantageous properties of the dispersions according to the invention and their manufacturing methods are not, or substantially not, altered by the contemplated additions. These adjustments fall within the skill of those skilled in the art.

[0264] Droplet shell (optional)

[0265] The droplet (G1) may contain a shell.

[0266] According to the present invention, the resulting droplets can have a very thin shell, especially with a thickness of less than 1% of the droplet diameter.

[0267] Therefore, the thickness of the shell is preferably less than 1 μm, which is too small to be measured by optical methods.

[0268] According to one embodiment, the thickness of the droplet shell is advantageously less than 1000 nm, especially 1 nm to 500 nm, preferably less than 100 nm, advantageously less than 50 nm, and preferably less than 10 nm.

[0269] The thickness of the droplet shell of the present invention can be measured using the method disclosed in WO2017046305.

[0270] The shell surrounding the droplets of the dispersed fatty phase particularly improves the droplet properties in terms of shear strength, adhesion, and aggregation.

[0271] The shell is preferably formed by aggregation, that is, by the precipitation of polymers with opposite charges. Within the aggregated layer, the bonds that link the charged polymers together are essentially ionic bonds and are generally stronger than the bonds present in surfactant-type films.

[0272] The shell is formed by the aggregation of at least two charged polymers (or polyelectrolytes) with opposite polarities, and preferably in the presence of a cationic first polymer and an anionic second polymer different from the first polymer. These two polymers act as membrane curing agents.

[0273] The formation of a condensed layer between these two polymers can be caused by changes in the reaction medium conditions (temperature, pH, reagent concentration, etc.).

[0274] The condensation reaction occurs through the neutralization of two charged polymers with opposite polarities and can form a film structure through electrostatic interactions between the anionic and cationic polymers. The film thus formed around each droplet typically forms a shell that completely encapsulates the droplet core, thereby isolating the droplet core from the continuous aqueous phase.

[0275] Advantageously, one of the first charged polymer and the second charged polymer is a lipophilic polymer that is capable of ionization upon contact with an aqueous phase, and the other of the first charged polymer and the second charged polymer is a hydrophilic polymer that is capable of ionization.

[0276] Anionic polymers

[0277] In the context of this specification, "anionic polymer" or "anionic polymer" refers to a polymer containing anionic chemical functional groups. It can also be described as anionic polyelectrolytes.

[0278] "Anionic chemical functional groups" refer to AH chemical functional groups that can donate protons to form A- functional groups. Depending on the conditions of their environment, anionic polymers may contain chemical functional groups in the form of AH or their conjugate base A-.

[0279] Examples of anionic chemical functional groups include the carboxylic acid functional group -COOH, which may optionally exist as the carboxylate anion -COO-.

[0280] Examples of anionic polymers are any polymers formed by monomer polymerization in which at least some monomers have anionic chemical functional groups, such as carboxylic acid functional groups. Such monomers are, for example, acrylic acid, maleic acid, or any olefinically unsaturated monomer containing at least one carboxylic acid functional group. For example, anionic polymers comprising monomer units containing at least one carboxylic acid functional group.

[0281] Preferably, the anionic polymer is hydrophilic, that is, soluble or dispersible in water.

[0282] Examples of anionic polymers suitable for carrying out the present invention include copolymers of acrylic acid or maleic acid with other monomers, such as acrylamide, alkyl acrylates, C5-C8 alkyl acrylates, C... 10 -C 30 Alkyl acrylate, C 12 -C 22 Alkyl methacrylates, methoxy polyethylene glycol methacrylates, hydroxy ester acrylates, cross-linked polymer acrylates, and mixtures thereof.

[0283] According to the present invention, the anionic polymer is preferably a carbomer as disclosed below. The polymer may also be a crosslinked acrylate / C 10-30 Alkyl acrylate copolymer (INCI name: acrylate / C) 10-30 Alkyl acrylate crosspolymer).

[0284] According to one embodiment, the shell of the droplet comprises at least one anionic polymer, such as carbomer.

[0285] In the context of this invention, unless otherwise stated, "carbomer" refers to a optionally crosslinked homopolymer derived from acrylic acid polymerization. Therefore, it is an optionally crosslinked poly(acrylic acid). The carbomer of this invention comprises those produced by Evonik using Tego... ® The name Carbomer 340FD is derived from Lubrizol's Carbopol. ® The names 981, Carbopol ETD 2050 sold by Lubrizol, or even Carbopol Ultrez 10 sold by Lubrizol.

[0286] According to one implementation plan, "Carbopol" or "Carbopol" ® "" refers to high molecular weight acrylic polymers crosslinked with allyl sucrose or pentaerythritol allyl ether (Handbook of Pharmaceutical Excipients, 5th Edition, pl11). Examples include Carbopol. ® 910, Carbopol ® 934, Carbopol ® 934P, Carbopol ® 940, Carbopol ® 941, Carbopol ® 71 G, Carbopol ® 980, Carbopol ® 971 P and Carbopol ® 974P. According to one embodiment, the viscosity of carbomer at 0.5% w / w is 4000 cP to 60,000 cP.

[0287] Carbomer has other names: polyacrylic acid, carboxyvinyl polymer or carboxylated polyethylene.

[0288] The dispersion according to the invention may contain 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 2% by weight, and most preferably 0.10% to 0.5% by weight of an anionic polymer, especially carbomer, based on the total weight of the dispersion.

[0289] cationic polymers

[0290] The droplets, especially the shells of the droplets, also contain at least one cationic polymer. They may also contain several cationic polymers. The cationic polymer is the polymer mentioned above that forms the shell by aggregation with anionic polymers.

[0291] For the purposes of this application, unless otherwise stated, "cationic polymer" or "cationic polymer" refers to a polymer containing cationic chemical functional groups. It can also be described as a cationic polyelectrolyte.

[0292] Preferably, the cationic polymer is lipophilic or lipid-soluble.

[0293] In the context of this application, unless otherwise stated, "cationic chemical functional group" refers to a group capable of absorbing protons to produce BH. + The functional group is a B functional group. Depending on the conditions of the medium in which it exists, cationic polymers therefore contain the B form or its conjugate acid BH. + Chemical functional groups in various forms.

[0294] Examples of cationic chemical functional groups include primary, secondary, and tertiary amine functional groups, which may optionally exist in the form of ammonium cations.

[0295] Examples of cationic polymers are any polymers formed by monomer polymerization in which at least some monomers have cationic chemical functional groups, such as primary, secondary, or tertiary amine functional groups.

[0296] Examples of such monomers are aziridine, or any olefinic unsaturated monomer containing at least one primary, secondary, or tertiary amine functional group.

[0297] Examples of cationic polymers suitable for carrying out the present invention include amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxanes derived from siloxane polymers (polydimethylsiloxanes, also known as polydimethylsiloxanes) modified with primary and secondary amine functional groups.

[0298] Also mentioned are amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane derivatives, such as amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane copolymers, aminopropyl polydimethylsiloxane, and more generally linear or branched siloxane polymers containing amine functional groups.

[0299] According to one embodiment, the droplet, particularly the shell of the droplet, comprises an amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane, which advantageously corresponds to the following formula:

[0300] [Chemical Formula 3]

[0301]

[0302] in:

[0303] - R1, R2, and R3 represent OH or CH3 independently;

[0304] - R4 represents a -CH2- group or a -X-NH- group, where X is a divalent C3 or C4 alkylene group;

[0305] - x is an integer from 10 to 5000, preferably from 30 to 1000, and more preferably from 80 to 300;

[0306] - y is an integer from 1 to 1000, preferably 2 to 1000, more preferably 4 to 100, and even more preferably 5 to 20; and

[0307] - z is an integer from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 1, and better yet equal to 1.

[0308] The cationic polymer according to the invention may be one of the following commercial products: Nusil's CAS 3131, ShinEtsu's KF 8005 S or KF 8004, Momentive's Silsoft AX or SF 1708, and Dow Corning's DC8500, DC 2-2078 or DC 2-8566.

[0309] The cationic polymer according to the invention may be an amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane, such as one of the following commercial products: Nusil's CAS 3131, Shin Etsu's KF 8005 S or KF 8004, Momentive's SF 1708 and DowCorning's DC 2-8566.

[0310] According to another preferred embodiment, the cationic polymer corresponds to the following formula:

[0311] [Chemical Formula 4]

[0312] HX 1 -R 1 -NH2 (I)

[0313] in:

[0314] - X 1 It can be represented as -O-, -CH2-, or -NH-, preferably -NH-.

[0315] - R 1R represents a divalent straight-chain, cyclic, or branched alkylene group containing 20 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably 25 to 45 carbon atoms, more preferably 30 to 40 carbon atoms, and most preferably 34 to 36 carbon atoms. 1 It may include a cycloalkyl group containing 3 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 6 carbon atoms, wherein the cycloalkyl group may optionally be substituted with one or more alkyl chains containing 6 to 10 carbon atoms.

[0316] According to yet another preferred embodiment, the cationic polymer corresponds to the following formula:

[0317] [Chemical Formula 5]

[0318]

[0319] in:

[0320] - n is 1 to 5, preferably 1 to 3, and preferably an integer equal to 1 or 2.

[0321] - X 1 and X 2 Whether identical or different, they can be independently represented as -O-, -CH2-, or -NH-, with the preferred group being X. 1 and X 2 at least one of them or X 1 and X 2 It represents -NH-,

[0322] - R 1 R 2 and R 3 May be the same or different, independently representing a divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched alkylene group containing 20 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably 25 to 45 carbon atoms, more preferably 30 to 40 carbon atoms, and most preferably 34 to 36 carbon atoms, R 1 R 2 and R 3 It may include a cycloalkylene group containing 3 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 6 carbon atoms, wherein the cycloalkylene group may optionally be substituted with one or more alkyl chains containing 6 to 10 carbon atoms.

[0323] - R 4 and R 5 Same or different, independently representing H, OH or NH2, R 4 and R 5 At least one of the groups represents NH2.

[0324] According to the invention, the dispersion may contain 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 2.5% by weight, and most particularly 0.5% to 1% by weight of the cationic polymer relative to the total weight of the phase (particularly the aliphatic phase).

[0325] Lipophilic cationic polymers and / or surfactants

[0326] As can be seen from the following examples, the presence of at least one lipophilic cationic polymer and / or surfactant in the fatty phase can improve the properties of the dispersion according to the invention in terms of droplet adhesion. This is especially true when one of the two lipophilic gelling agents is at least a wax.

[0327] Lipophilic cationic polymers include those described above.

[0328] The lipophilic cationic surfactant according to the present invention may be selected from any lipophilic cationic surfactant known to those skilled in the art.

[0329] Preferably, the cationic surfactant may be selected from those sold by SurfactGreen under the name CosmeGreen ES1822+ (INCI: arachidoyl / behenyl betaine ethanesulfonate (and) arachidoyl / behenyl alcohol) or CosmeGreen MB1618 (cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl betaine methanesulfonate), those sold by Evonik under the name Varisoft EQ 90 (INCI: dioleoyl ethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium methyl sulfate) or Varisoft EQ 100 (INCI: bis-(isostearoyl / oleoyl isopropyl) dimethyl ammonium methyl sulfate), or those sold by Inolex under the name KerazyneMB (INCI: polyester-11), and mixtures thereof.

[0330] According to the invention, the dispersion may contain 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 2.5% by weight, and most particularly 0.5% to 1% by weight of a lipophilic cationic polymer and / or surfactant relative to the total weight of the phase (particularly the fatty phase) containing the lipophilic cationic polymer and / or surfactant.

[0331] Additional compounds

[0332] According to the present invention, the continuous aqueous phase and / or fatty phase of the dispersion according to the present invention may further contain at least one additional compound different from the above-described anionic and cationic polymers, surfactants, oils, pigments and lipophilic gelling agents.

[0333] According to the invention, the continuous aqueous phase and / or dispersed aliphatic phase may further comprise powders; colorants; soft-focus fillers, especially those disclosed in WO2019053236; emulsified and / or non-emulsified silicone elastomers, especially those disclosed in EP2353577; hydrophilic texture modifiers (or hydrophilic gelling agents), especially those disclosed in FR3041251; preservatives; humectants; stabilizers; pH stabilizers, especially pH buffers (e.g., HEPES, PBS); chelating agents; emollients; etc., or any conventional cosmetic additives; and mixtures thereof.

[0334] The continuous and / or dispersed phases of the dispersions according to the invention, particularly the fatty phase, may also contain at least one active ingredient, especially a biological or cosmetic ingredient, preferably selected from moisturizers, healing agents, decolorizing agents, UV filters, exfoliants, antioxidants, active ingredients that stimulate the synthesis of macromolecules in the dermis and / or epidermis, skin relaxants, antiperspirants, soothing agents, anti-aging agents, fragrances, and mixtures thereof.

[0335] Preferably, the dispersion according to the invention does not contain hydrophilic surfactants, vitamin E (or tocopheryl acetate), magnesium sulfate, poloxamer, EDTA (or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid), or mixtures thereof.

[0336] Naturally, those skilled in the art will carefully select the amounts of the aforementioned additional and / or active compounds and / or their respective amounts so that the advantageous properties of the dispersions according to the invention and the method of their manufacture are not, or substantially not, altered by the contemplated additions. In particular, the properties and / or amounts of the additional and / or active compounds depend on the aqueous or oily nature of the phase in question and / or the method employed (especially “non-microfluidic” or “microfluidic” types). These adjustments fall within the skill of those skilled in the art.

[0337] Preparation method

[0338] The dispersions according to the present invention can be prepared by various methods.

[0339] Therefore, the advantage of the dispersions according to the invention is that they can be prepared using a simple “non-microfluidic” method, i.e., by simple emulsification.

[0340] As with conventional emulsions, aqueous and fat solutions are prepared separately. It is by adding the fat phase to the aqueous phase under stirring that a direct emulsion is produced, thus creating the dispersion according to the invention.

[0341] The viscosity of the aqueous phase and the shear force applied to the mixture are two main parameters affecting the size (and therefore macroscopic properties) and monodispersity of droplets in the dispersion according to the invention.

[0342] Those skilled in the art will know how to adjust non-microfluidic methods to meet the standard for average droplet diameter of the dispersion according to the present invention.

[0343] The dispersions according to the invention can also be prepared according to microfluidic methods. Microfluidic methods suitable for manufacturing dispersions according to the invention are disclosed in particular in WO2012 / 120043, WO2015 / 055748 or WO2019145424.

[0344] Various fluids, especially their flow velocities, can be used in the microfluidic method according to the invention, based on a fluid dynamics model known as “dripping” or “jetting” (forming a liquid jet at the outlet of the microfluidic device and then breaking the jet in ambient air under gravity).

[0345] The presence of at least two gelling agents (especially heat-sensitive gelling agents) as previously disclosed in the fatty phase may necessitate adjustments to the method for preparing the dispersion according to the invention. In particular, the method for preparing the dispersion according to the invention may include heating (40°C to 150°C, especially 50°C to 90°C) at least the fatty phase and optionally the aqueous phase, followed by mixing / contacting the fatty phase with the aqueous phase, and, where appropriate and in the case of a “non-microfluidic” method as described above, maintaining this heating during stirring until the desired dispersion is obtained.

[0346] According to one embodiment, a method for preparing the dispersion of the present invention includes at least the following steps:

[0347] - Optionally, the oily fluid Fl is heated to a temperature in the range of 40°C to 150°C, preferably 60°C to 130°C, and more preferably 80°C to 110°C;

[0348] - Optionally, the aqueous fluid FE is heated to a temperature in the range of 40°C to 150°C, preferably 60°C to 130°C, and more preferably 80°C to 110°C;

[0349] - To bring the aqueous fluid FE into contact with the oily fluid Fl as defined below; and

[0350] - Forming droplets of an oily phase composed of an oily fluid Fl, the droplets being dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase composed of a fluid FE, the droplets optionally comprising a shell separating the core of the droplet from the oily phase of the dispersion.

[0351] in:

[0352] - The oily fluid Fl contains at least one pigment and at least two different lipophilic gelling agents, and optionally at least one oil, and

[0353] - The aqueous fluid FE contains at least water and optionally at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

[0354] According to one embodiment, the method according to the invention, particularly the droplet formation step, may further include the step of injecting a solution to increase the viscosity of the continuous aqueous phase of the fluid FE, especially when the continuous aqueous phase contains at least one pH-dependent hydrophilic gelling agent, such as carbomer. Preferably, the thickening solution is aqueous. This thickening solution is typically injected into the external aqueous fluid FE after the formation of the dispersion according to the invention, and thus after droplet formation.

[0355] According to one implementation, the thickening solution contains an alkali, particularly an alkali metal hydroxide, such as sodium hydroxide.

[0356] Depending on the pigment used, the method for preparing the dispersion according to the invention may include the following steps:

[0357] a) Provide at least one pigment, which is optionally pretreated with additives to improve pigment dispersibility, then

[0358] b) Optionally, the at least one pigment may be ground, preferably when the at least one pigment has not been pretreated.

[0359] c) Dispersing at least one pigment in at least one oily fluid Fl; d) Optionally, heating the oily fluid Fl and optionally the aqueous fluid FE to a temperature of 40°C to 150°C, preferably 50°C to 90°C.

[0360] e) To bring the aqueous fluid FE into contact with the oily fluid Fl; and

[0361] f) Forming droplets of an oily phase composed of an oily fluid Fl, the droplets being dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase composed of an aqueous fluid FE, the droplets optionally comprising a shell separating the core of the droplet from the oily phase of the dispersion.

[0362] The oily fluid Fl and the aqueous fluid FE are as described above.

[0363] Naturally, those skilled in the art will carefully adjust the parameters of the manufacturing method to ensure its smooth operation, especially to ensure the use of a phase with suitable fluidity, which can be achieved, in particular, by increasing the temperature of said phase. These adjustments fall within the scope of common sense for those skilled in the art.

[0364] application

[0365] Preferably, the dispersion according to the invention can be used directly as a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, after the above-described preparation method. When prepared by the microfluidic method disclosed above, the dispersion according to the invention can also be used as a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, after separating the droplets and redispersing them in a suitable second phase.

[0366] The present invention also relates to the use of at least one dispersion according to the invention for incorporation into a cosmetic composition.

[0367] The dispersions according to the present invention are particularly suitable for use in the cosmetics industry.

[0368] The present invention also relates to cosmetic compositions comprising at least one dispersion as defined above, preferably cosmetic compositions.

[0369] In addition to the above-mentioned ingredients, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also contain at least one physiologically acceptable medium.

[0370] Therefore, the present invention also relates to a composition comprising at least one dispersion as defined above and a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0371] "Physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium that is particularly suitable for applying the compositions of the present invention to keratinous substances, especially skin, lips, nails, eyelashes or eyebrows, preferably skin.

[0372] Physiologically acceptable media are generally suitable for the nature of the matrix to which the composition is applied and the appearance of the composition to be packaged.

[0373] The presence of a physiologically acceptable medium can help improve the storage of droplets of the dispersion according to the invention and / or maintain their integrity over time.

[0374] According to one embodiment, the physiologically acceptable medium is in the form of a hydrogel, the viscosity of which is adjusted, in particular, to ensure the suspension of droplets according to the invention.

[0375] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition is used for keratin substances, particularly for the makeup and / or care of the skin.

[0376] Therefore, these compositions are specifically intended for application to the skin, lips, or hair, and are thus intended for topical use.

[0377] Therefore, the present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of dispersions or compositions according to the invention as keratin substances, particularly in cosmetic and / or skin care products.

[0378] More specifically, the dispersion or composition according to the invention can be, for example, mascara, skin-tone products (such as foundation), eyeliner, eyeshadow or blush, lip products (such as lipstick or lip gloss), eyeshadow, skin-tone products or lip products, BB cream, CC cream, preferably foundation.

[0379] The dispersions or compositions of the present invention may be in the form of single-phase or two-phase detergents, emulsions, gels, sticks or creams.

[0380] The dispersions or compositions according to the invention are preferably in the form of foundation, eye concealer, color corrector, tinted cream or facial primer, or body makeup composition applied to the face or neck.

[0381] The present invention also relates to keratin substances, particularly skin, lips or hair, and most particularly to non-therapeutic cosmetic treatments of the skin, especially cosmetic and / or care treatments, preferably cosmetics, wherein the method comprises at least one step of applying at least one dispersion or composition according to the invention to said keratin substance.

[0382] Throughout the specification (including the claims), unless otherwise stated, the expression "comprising one" shall be understood to be synonymous with "comprising at least one".

[0383] Unless otherwise stated, expressions “between… and…”, “from… to…”, and “… to…” must be understood as inclusive.

[0384] Unless otherwise stated, the amounts of the ingredients shown in the examples are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0385] The following embodiments illustrate the present invention, but do not limit its scope. Example

[0386] Unless otherwise stated, the dispersions described below are produced by a microfluidic method as disclosed above or in WO2017046305. The microfluidic apparatus used is divided into two parts: a first part in which IF (or Fl) and OF (or FE) are brought into contact at a high temperature (75°C to 90°C) to form a dispersion; and a second part in which the formed dispersion is rapidly cooled to accelerate the gelation kinetics of the droplets, thereby preventing the risk of droplet aggregation after formation (cooling temperature: 5°C to 28°C).

[0387] Example 1 Preparation of colored macroscopic droplet dispersions using ASL pigments

[0388] A dispersion of macroscopic droplets of a gelled fat phase dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase is prepared. The compositions of each phase (fluid) used to prepare the dispersion are disclosed in Tables 1 and 2 below.

[0389] [Table 1]

[0390]

[0391] *QSP: Sufficient quantity; here, Labrafac CC and Cetiol CC exist in a 1:1 ratio to implement QSP.

[0392] [Table 2]

[0393]

[0394] *For aliphatic phases containing at least 25% pigment, rheological analysis has shown that the properties of droplets containing 6% Rheopearl KL2 (especially in terms of rigidity) are similar to those of droplets containing 10% Estogel M.

[0395] Example 1 is based on 20 tests, 10 of which do not contain amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane (represented by the letter X) and 10 of which contain amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane (represented by the letter A). For illustration, test 7 using amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane will be referred to as "Test 7A".

[0396] Preparation scheme :

[0397] For OF :

[0398] Add phenoxyethanol, pentylene glycol, and EDTA to water. Stir the mixture for 5 minutes.

[0399] Then, the carbomer was dispersed in the previous mixture by stirring with a deflocculating slurry for 30 minutes.

[0400] Then add glycerin and stir the mixture for 10 minutes.

[0401] Then add baking soda and mix the solution for 10 minutes.

[0402] For IF :

[0403] Add an amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane (if present) to a portion of Labrafac CC and Cetiol CC, and then mix with a magnetic stirrer for 5 minutes.

[0404] The mixture was heated to 80°C, and then a lipophilic gelling agent was added with stirring in a deflocculator until a homogeneous solution (=solution 1) was obtained. Simultaneously, a pigment abrasive (=solution 2) was prepared by stirring the pigment with the remaining Labrafac CC and Cetiol CC. Solutions 1 and 2 were stirred in a deflocculator at 80°C until a homogeneous solution was obtained. The IF solution was kept warm (80°C) and stirred, and injected into a microfluidic device using a gear pump (HNPM reference).

[0405] For BF Mix baking soda and water with a magnetic stirrer for 5 minutes.

[0406] The following flow rates were used in these tests:

[0407] [Table 3]

[0408]

[0409] The resulting dispersion contains droplets with an average diameter greater than 100 μm, particularly with an average diameter of about 1000 μm.

[0410] Observed parameters :

[0411] Each test sample was then packaged into several 30 mL glass containers, half-filled. Stability analysis was conducted for one month at ambient temperature (AT), 50 °C, and under cycling conditions, with microscopic evaluation performed at D+7, D+14, and M+1. During this period, the dispersion was observed under a microscope for leakage, droplet adhesion to the packaging wall, droplet aggregation, and viscosity. “Cycling” refers to a cycle of temperature change from +40 °C to -10 °C, with each temperature maintained for 8 hours.

[0412] Scoring Criteria :

[0413] [Table 4]

[0414]

[0415] [Table 5]

[0416]

[0417] If at least one of the above parameters scores 3 points, the candidate is considered eliminated.

[0418] result :

[0419] [Table 6]

[0420]

[0421] In view of the above, the use of a gelling system with at least two different lipophilic gelling agents improves the performance of macroscopic droplets of colored fatty phase dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, and in particular achieves a satisfactory balance between leakage, adhesion, aggregation and viscosity.

[0422] Taking all these parameters into account, test 8 achieved the best performance.

[0423] When the gelling system contains at least one wax, it is noted that the presence of ammonia-terminated polydimethylsiloxane can help reduce adhesion.

[0424] Five additional tests were conducted, which differed from test 8A in that the amino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane was replaced with the following substances:

[0425] - CosmeGreen ES1822+ (INCI: arachidoyl / behenyl betaine ethanesulfonate (and) arachidoyl / behenol), concentration 2.5%,

[0426] - CosmeGreen MB1618 (cetearearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl betaine methanesulfonate), concentration 2.5%,

[0427] - Kerazyne MB (INCI: Polyester-11), concentration 0.25%,

[0428] - Varisoft EQ 100 (INCI: bis-(isostearoyl / oleoyl isopropyl)dimethylammonium methyl sulfate), concentration 0.5%, and

[0429] - The compound of formula (III) disclosed in patent application No. FR2205166, at a concentration of 0.4%.

[0430] Similar results were observed, most notably for the compounds of formula (III) disclosed above and in patent application number FR2205166.

[0431] It should be noted that tests 5 through 9 all exhibited satisfactory properties in terms of high coverage and hydration.

[0432] Example 2 The effect of the weight ratio of "first lipophilic gelling agent and second lipophilic gelling agent"

[0433] Based on Test 5X of Example 1, five additional dispersions were prepared, which differed only in the weight ratio of the first lipophilic gelling agent and the second lipophilic gelling agent, as disclosed in Table 7 below.

[0434] [Table 7]

[0435]

[0436] result :

[0437] [Table 8]

[0438]

[0439] After testing with different weight ratios of "Estogel M / RheoPearl KL2", it was noted that:

[0440] - The higher the percentage of Rheopearl KL2, the less oil leakage will occur; and

[0441] The higher the percentage of Rheopearl KL2, the more droplet aggregation occurs, which can be offset by using ammonia-terminated polydimethylsiloxane.

[0442] The best results were observed in tests 5Xiii, 5Xiv, and 5Xv, in the following order: 5Xiv > 5Xiii > 5Xv.

[0443] By using OILKEMIA ™ Similar results were obtained by substituting Estogel M with 5S polymer (INCI: caprylic / capric triglyceride (and) polyurethane-79).

[0444] Example 3 Preparation of colored macroscopic droplet dispersions using UNIPURE pigments

[0445] Dispersions of macroscopic droplets of a gelled fat phase dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase were prepared, which differed from those described in Example 1 in that the Sensient UNIPURE pigment was used instead of the ASL pigment. The compositions of the phases (fluids) used to prepare the dispersions are disclosed in Table 9 below.

[0446] [Table 9]

[0447]

[0448] *QSP: Sufficient quantity; here, Labrafac CC and Cetiol CC exist in a 1:1 ratio to implement QSP.

[0449] The composition, preparation method, flow rate, observed parameters, and scoring criteria of the aqueous phase (OF) and alkali (BF) were the same as those described in Example 1.

[0450] The observed results were similar to, or even slightly better than, those obtained in Example 1.

[0451] Example 4Comparison between the dispersion of the colored macroscopic droplets according to the present invention and dispersions other than those of the present invention.

[0452] According to the present invention, a dispersion 11 of macroscopic droplets of a gelled fat phase dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase is prepared, along with two comparative compositions C1 and C2 other than those of the present invention. Comparative composition C1 is close to the composition disclosed in application WO2023 / 094468 (FR3129286). The compositions of each phase (fluid) used to prepare the dispersion are disclosed in Tables 10 and 11 below.

[0453] [Table 10]

[0454]

[0455] *QSP: Sufficient quantity

[0456] [Table 11]

[0457]

[0458] Preparation scheme :

[0459] The preparation of dispersions I1, C1, and C2 is similar to that described in Example 1 above, i.e., by implementing the microfluidic method disclosed above or in WO2017046305.

[0460] Scoring Criteria :

[0461] The stability of the manufacturing method is assessed based on the occurrence of one or more phenomena affecting the manufacturing method as disclosed in Tables 12 and 13 below, namely:

[0462] - The fatty phase is sprayed according to the dripping or jetting pattern;

[0463] - Clogged nozzles; and / or

[0464] - Forms non-spherical droplets or does not produce droplets.

[0465] The study was conducted for each dispersion 11 (according to the present invention) as well as C1 and C2 (other than those of the present invention).

[0466] Use the following rating:

[0467] [Table 12]

[0468]

[0469] result :

[0470] [Table 13]

[0471]

[0472] Given Table 13 above, using a gelling system having at least two gelling agents selected from at least one polyurethane lipophilic gelling agent and at least one wax makes it compatible with manufacturing methods (especially microfluidic methods) and enables the dispersion of macroscopic spherical droplets, which is different from solid or liquid butter-type lipophilic gelling agents (such as those disclosed in document WO2023 / 094468 (FR3129286)).

Claims

1. A dispersion comprising a droplet-form fatty phase dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, preferably in the form of a gel, the fatty phase comprising at least one pigment and / or at least one reflective particle, and at least two lipophilic gelling agents, preferably heat-sensitive gelling agents, said at least two lipophilic gelling agents selected from: - At least one sugar / polysaccharide fatty acid ester; - At least one polyurethane lipophilic gelling agent, said at least one polyurethane lipophilic gelling agent being selected from castor oil / IPDI copolymer (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride, caprylic / capric triglyceride (and) polyurethane-79 and / or caprylic / capric triglyceride (and) hydrogenated poly(C6-20 olefin) (and) HDI / trimethylolcaprolactone crosspolymer; and - At least one type of wax.

2. The dispersion according to claim 1, wherein the sugar / polysaccharide fatty acid ester is selected from dextrin fatty acid esters, inulin fatty acid esters, glycerol fatty acid esters and mixtures thereof, preferably from dextrin fatty acid esters, and particularly from dextrin palmitate.

3. The dispersion according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the two lipophilic gelling agents are selected from: - At least one dextrin fatty acid ester; - Castor oil / IPDI copolymer (and) caprylic / capric triglycerides; and - At least one type of wax.

4. The dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: - The first lipophilic gelling agent is selected from at least one dextrin fatty acid ester, and the second lipophilic gelling agent is selected from castor oil / IPDI copolymer (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride; - The first lipophilic gelling agent is selected from at least one dextrin fatty acid ester, and the second lipophilic gelling agent is selected from at least one wax; or - The first lipophilic gelling agent is selected from castor oil / IPDI copolymer (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride, and the second lipophilic gelling agent is selected from at least one wax.

5. The dispersion according to the preceding claim, wherein the weight ratio of the "first lipophilic gelling agent / second lipophilic gelling agent" is 50:50 to 25:75, preferably 45:55 to 30:70, and more preferably 35:65 to 30:

70.

6. The dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty phase comprises 1% to 30% by weight, preferably 2.5% to 20% by weight, and particularly 5% to 12% by weight of a lipophilic gelling agent relative to the total weight of the dispersed fatty phase.

7. The dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty phase comprises, relative to the total weight of the dispersed fatty phase, 1% to 60% by weight, preferably 5% to 50% by weight, particularly 10% to 40% by weight, more preferably 15% to 35% by weight, preferably 20% to 35% by weight, and most particularly 25% to 35% by weight of pigment.

8. The dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the dispersion comprises, by weight of the total weight of the dispersion, 1% to 60% by weight, preferably 5% to 50% by weight, particularly 10% to 40% by weight, and especially 15% to 30% by weight of a fatty phase.

9. The dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the volume of droplets having a diameter greater than or equal to 100 μm accounts for greater than or equal to 60%, or even greater than or equal to 70%, preferably greater than or equal to 80%, more preferably greater than or equal to 90% of the total volume of the dispersed phase, and / or at least 60%, or even at least 70%, preferably at least 80%, more preferably at least 90% of the droplets have an average diameter greater than or equal to 100 μm.

10. The dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the continuous aqueous phase comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

11. The dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the dispersed fatty phase further comprises at least one lipophilic cationic polymer and / or at least one lipophilic cationic surfactant.

12. The dispersion according to the preceding claim, wherein the dispersion comprises 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 2.5% by weight, and most particularly 0.5% to 1% by weight of the lipophilic cationic polymer and / or surfactant relative to the total weight of the phase comprising the lipophilic cationic polymer and / or surfactant.

13. A method for preparing a dispersion as defined in any one of the preceding claims, the method comprising the steps of: - Optionally, the oily fluid Fl is heated to a temperature in the range of 40°C to 150°C, preferably 60°C to 130°C, and more preferably 80°C to 110°C; - Optionally, the aqueous fluid FE is heated to a temperature in the range of 40°C to 150°C, preferably 60°C to 130°C, and more preferably 80°C to 110°C; - To bring the aqueous fluid FE into contact with the oily fluid Fl; and - Droplets of a fatty phase composed of the oily fluid Fl are formed, and the droplets of the fatty phase are dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase composed of the fluid FE. in: - The oily fluid Fl comprises at least one pigment and at least two lipophilic gelling agents, and optionally at least one oil, and - The aqueous fluid FE contains at least water and optionally at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

14. A composition, particularly a cosmetic composition, said composition comprising at least one dispersion according to any one of claims 1 to 12.

15. A non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method for a keratin substance, particularly a cosmetic and / or care treatment, preferably a cosmetic treatment, the method comprising at least one step of applying the keratin substance to at least one dispersion according to any one of claims 1 to 12 or at least one cosmetic composition according to claim 14.

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