Silicone oil-free amino acid foam makeup removing and face cleaning composition and preparation method thereof

Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and provides a silicone oil-free amino acid foam cleansing composition and a preparation method thereof. The composition provided by the invention contains the following components in percentage by weight: 10%-30% of an amino acid surfactant, 3%-10% of a zwitterionic surfactant, 5%-20% of polyhydric alcohol and the balance of water, and the composition is prepared by compounding the specific amino acid surfactant, the zwitterionic surfactant and the polyhydric alcohol under the condition of not adding silicone oil and substitutes. A foam type face cleaning system which has excellent instant makeup removing power, rich and stable foam, mildness and low irritation is constructed. The system breaks through the technical prejudice that a silicone oil-free system is difficult to realize powerful makeup removal, is particularly suitable for sensitive skin, and can realize one-step completion of makeup removal and face cleaning.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention belongs to the field of cosmetic technology, and specifically relates to a silicone-free amino acid foam makeup remover and facial cleanser composition and its preparation method. Background Technology

[0002] With the widespread use of makeup and increased awareness of skincare, there is a strong market demand for facial cleansers with makeup removal functions. Foaming cleansers are particularly popular due to their ease of use and refreshing feel. To achieve effective makeup removal, current technologies often involve adding oil-based ingredients or silicone oil to the formula.

[0003] For example, Korean patent KR10-1778273 discloses a foam makeup remover and cleanser composition using Bis-PEG-18 dimethyl ether dimethylsiloxane (a PEG-modified silicone oil), which utilizes the excellent makeup-dissolving and spreading properties of silicone oil to enhance makeup removal power. However, some consumers are resistant to the silicone oil component in the formula, and this patent establishes a clear technological barrier.

[0004] Under the trend of "silicone-free" products, related technologies are mostly concentrated in the shampoo field (such as CN109481352A and CN106109257B), which solve the problems of dry and frizzy hair by adding PCA glyceryl oleate, plant oils, etc. to replace silicone oil. However, using these alternative components in facial makeup removers and cleansers can lead to a greasy feeling, and even new problems such as the risk of clogged pores or insufficient makeup removal power.

[0005] As a result, a long-standing technological bias exists in this field: to achieve powerful makeup removal (especially waterproof makeup), the formula must rely on silicone oil or its functional substitutes. Against this backdrop, developing a facial cleanser that achieves excellent makeup removal power and foam stability entirely without relying on silicone oil or any alternative oils, using only a water-based surfactant system, presents a significant technological challenge. Summary of the Invention

[0006] To address the above technical problems, this invention proposes a silicone-free amino acid foam makeup remover and facial cleanser composition and its preparation method.

[0007] The potassium cocoyl glycinate used in this invention is an anionic amino acid surfactant with an amphiphilic structure, which can reduce surface tension and provide a gentler cleaning effect. Cocamidopropyl hydroxysulfonate is an amphoteric surfactant with a betaine structure as its hydrophilic group and a cocoyl group as its hydrophobic group, which can regulate foam and has thickening and foam stabilizing effects.

[0008] Because the amphiphilic structures of the two surfactants mentioned above align at the gas-liquid interface, reducing interfacial tension, when subjected to stirring, friction, or rubbing during cleansing, air enters the liquid to form bubbles. Surfactant molecules adsorb onto the surface of the bubbles, forming a bilayer film that stabilizes the bubbles and initially forms foam. Among them, amino acid surfactant (potassium cocoyl glycinate) is one of the main foaming agents because its hydrophobic chain length is suitable and it has good foaming properties. The combination of amphoteric surfactant (cocamidopropyl hydroxysulfonate betaine) and amino acid surfactant can enhance the foaming ability and make it easier to form bubbles.

[0009] Furthermore, if the strength and elasticity of the film formed on the bubble surface by the surfactant are insufficient, it can easily cause the bubbles to merge or break. The potassium cocoyl glycinate used in this invention has amino acid groups in its molecular structure, which can form hydrogen bonds and increase the strength of the film. In addition, the betaine structure in the amphoteric surfactant carries a charge, and the electrostatic repulsion between molecules can further prevent the bubbles from merging. At the same time, its hydrophobic chain and the hydrophobic chain of the amino acid surfactant interact to make the interfacial film denser. The addition of glycerol helps to increase the viscosity of the liquid phase, slow down the loss of liquid from the bubble film, thereby delaying the bubble breakage and assisting in the bubble stabilization effect.

[0010] In the formulation provided by this invention, the compounding ratio of amino acid surfactant to amphoteric surfactant = (3~4):1 is the core of foam stability. The interfacial film elasticity of a single amino acid surfactant is insufficient, and the foaming property of a single amphoteric surfactant is weak. The synergistic effect of the two after compounding can simultaneously ensure foaming amount and foam stability. If the ratio is unbalanced, it will lead to a reduction in foaming amount or a decrease in bubble stability.

[0011] The technical solution of this invention is:

[0012] This invention provides a silicone-free amino acid foam makeup remover and cleanser composition, comprising the following components by weight percentage:

[0013] The composition contains 10%–30% amino acid surfactant, 3%–10% zwitterionic surfactant, 5%–20% polyol, and a pH adjuster to adjust the pH of the composition to 5.0–6.5, with water as the balance.

[0014] The amino acid surfactant is selected from at least one of the following: potassium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, and sodium cocoyl propionate.

[0015] The zwitterionic surfactant is selected from at least one of the following: cocamidopropyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysulfonate betaine, sodium lauroyl amphoteric acetate, and cocoyl betaine, with cocamidopropyl hydroxysulfonate being the most preferred.

[0016] The polyol is a mixture of glycerol and butanediol.

[0017] The above composition does not contain any silicone oil or any esters or vegetable oils used to replace the conditioning function of silicone oil.

[0018] In the above-mentioned makeup remover and facial cleanser composition provided by the present invention, preferably, the weight ratio of the amino acid surfactant to the zwitterionic surfactant is (3~5):1, especially (3~4):1, which is the range in which the synergistic effect is most significant.

[0019] Preferably, the polyol is a mixture of glycerol and butylene glycol, with a weight ratio of glycerol to butylene glycol of (1~3):1. This mixing ratio achieves the best balance between skin feel, moisturizing power, cleansing power, foaming and foam stabilizing effect.

[0020] The core concept of this invention lies in the inventor's unexpected discovery that by compounding a specific type and proportion of amino acid surfactants with the amphoteric surfactant cocamidopropyl hydroxysulfonate betaine and polyols such as glycerol / butanediol, a significant synergistic effect is achieved among the three:

[0021] (1) Amino acid surfactants provide a gentle, long-lasting and resilient foam base and basic cleaning power;

[0022] (2) Amphoteric surfactants can not only stabilize foam and thicken, but their unique molecular structure can also work synergistically with amino acid surfactants to enhance the emulsification and stripping ability of oil-soluble makeup stains.

[0023] (3) In this system, polyols are not only moisturizers, but also play the role of surfactants and makeup removers. They can reduce the interfacial tension of the system, assist surfactant molecules to penetrate and break down makeup, and work together to achieve foam removal and foam stabilization effects, while significantly improving the persistence and fineness of the foam.

[0024] The synergistic effect between the components allows this water-based system to achieve an instant makeup removal effect comparable to silicone-containing systems without the need for any oily ingredients (such as traditional silicone oil or plant oil), while maintaining the inherent gentle properties of amino acid cleansers.

[0025] This invention also provides a method for preparing the above-mentioned silicone-free amino acid foam makeup remover and facial cleanser composition, comprising the following steps:

[0026] (1) Add the polyol to water and stir evenly at room temperature to form an aqueous phase;

[0027] (2) Add amino acid surfactant and zwitterionic surfactant to the aqueous phase, slowly heat to 60~75℃, preferably 65~70℃, and stir until the system is completely transparent;

[0028] (3) Stop heating, slowly stir and cool down to below 40°C, and adjust the pH of the system to 5.0~6.5 with a pH adjuster, wherein the pH adjuster is preferably lactic acid or citric acid;

[0029] (4) Discharge and fill into the foam pump bottle.

[0030] The product is to be used as follows: squeeze out fine foam through the foam pump head, apply it to a wet or dry face, massage for 30-60 seconds, and then rinse with water.

[0031] The present invention has the following advantages and effects compared with the prior art:

[0032] (1) This invention provides a silicone-free amino acid foam makeup remover and cleanser composition. The composition uses a specific ratio of amino acid surfactants (such as potassium cocoyl glycinate), zwitterionic surfactants (cocamidopropyl hydroxysulfonate betaine), and glycerin / butylene glycol mixed polyols as core components. Through the synergistic mechanism of potassium cocoyl glycinate providing a mild foam base, cocamidopropyl hydroxysulfonate stabilizing and thickening the foam and synergistically enhancing makeup emulsification, and the glycerin / butylene glycol polyol system reducing interfacial tension to help remove makeup and enhance moisturizing, an oil-free water-based system without silicone oil / plant oil is constructed, achieving a balance between efficient makeup removal and gentle skin-friendly properties.

[0033] (2) Experimental verification shows that the composition has good makeup removal power for waterproof lipstick and mascara, far exceeding that of simple amino acid facial cleanser. It has excellent foam performance and stability that is significantly better than the non-ampholyte surfactant system. In addition, the mild formula of the composition with pH 5.0~6.5 combined with the 0% irritation rate in the sensitive skin patch test ensures high gentleness to the skin.

[0034] (3) The preparation method of the facial cleansing composition in this invention ensures the uniformity, transparency and stability of the system by step-by-step temperature control (heating and dissolving at 60~75℃, cooling and adjusting pH below 40℃) and precise feeding sequence. The design of filling into the foam pump bottle is easy to use. The fine foam evenly covers the face, and after massage and rinsing, efficient cleaning can be completed. The operation is simple and the experience is comfortable. This invention breaks through the prejudice of oil-free makeup removal technology and provides an innovative solution for makeup removal and facial cleansing products. Detailed Implementation

[0035] To enable those skilled in the art to better understand the present invention, the present invention will now be further described in conjunction with specific embodiments.

[0036] The makeup remover and facial cleanser compositions provided in the embodiments and comparative examples of this invention are all prepared according to the following method, specifically including the following steps:

[0037] (1) Add glycerol and butylene glycol to water and stir at room temperature until uniformly dispersed to form an aqueous phase;

[0038] (2) Add potassium cocoyl glycinate and cocamidopropyl hydroxysulfonate to the aqueous phase, heat slowly to 70°C and stir until the system becomes a homogeneous and transparent liquid;

[0039] (3) Stop heating and slowly stir to cool down to below 40°C;

[0040] (4) Adjust the pH to 5.8-6.0 with citric acid;

[0041] (5) Discharge and fill into the foam pump bottle.

[0042] Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-2

[0043] Prepare a silicone-free amino acid foam makeup remover and cleanser composition according to the formulation shown in Table 1.

[0044] Comparative Example 1 is an amino acid facial cleanser without zwitterionic surfactants, and Comparative Example 2 is a facial cleanser containing PEG-modified silicone oil that simulates patent KR10-1778273.

[0045] Table 1. Composition formulations (weight percentages) of Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-2 Element Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Potassium cocoyl glycinate (YCK-30K) 15 20 25 20 15 Cocamidopropylhydroxysulfonate 5 5 5 0 5 glycerin 10 10 10 10 10 Butylene glycol 5 5 5 5 5 Bis-PEG-18 Dimethicone 0 0 0 0 10 water margin margin margin margin margin Amino acid surfactants: zwitterionic surfactants 3：1 4：1 5：1 - 3:1

[0046] Examples 4-6

[0047] The only difference from Example 1 is that the ratio of butanediol to glycerol in the polyol component of the composition has been adjusted. The specific mass ratio of butanediol to glycerol is shown in Table 2 below. The other components, ratios, and preparation methods of the composition are exactly the same as those in Example 1.

[0048] Table 2. Composition formulations of Examples 4-6 (weight percentage / %) Element Example 1 Example 4 Example 5 Example 6 Potassium cocoyl glycinate (YCK-30K) 15 15 15 15 Cocamidopropylhydroxysulfonate 5 5 5 5 glycerin 10 1 5 15 Butylene glycol 5 5 5 5 water margin margin margin margin

[0049] Examples 7-9

[0050] The only difference from Example 1 is that the type of zwitterionic surfactant in the composition has been adjusted, as shown in Table 3 below. The other components, proportions, and preparation methods of the composition are exactly the same as in Example 1.

[0051] Table 3. Types of zwitterionic surfactants in the compositions of Examples 7-9 Element Example 7 Example 8 Example 9 zwitterionic surfactants Cocamidopropyl Betaine Sodium lauroylamphoacetate Coconut betaine

[0052] Comparative Examples 3-5

[0053] The difference from Example 1 is that the mass ratio of amino acid surfactant to zwitterionic surfactant in the composition has been adjusted, as shown in Table 4 below.

[0054] Table 4 Formulations of the compositions in Comparative Examples 3-5 (weight percentage / %) Element Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 5 Potassium cocoyl glycinate 5 10 5 Cocamidopropylhydroxysulfonate 5 5 10

[0055] Application Example 1

[0056] The foaming properties of the makeup remover and facial cleanser compositions prepared in each embodiment and comparative example were tested.

[0057] The foam performance of the makeup remover and facial cleanser composition was tested using a FoamScan foam analyzer. The specific procedure was as follows: the sample was diluted to 0.5%, 20 mL of the solution was placed in a graduated cylinder, and bubbled with a constant airflow. The maximum foam volume (mL) and foam half-life (T½, s) were recorded. The results are shown in Table 5.

[0058] Table 5. Foaming performance test results of makeup remover and facial cleanser compositions sample Maximum foam volume (mL) Foam half-life T½(s) Example 1 580 320 Example 2 650 380 Example 3 700 360 Example 4 560 300 Example 5 570 310 Example 6 520 350 Example 7 580 310 Example 8 550 290 Example 9 520 340 Comparative Example 1 420 220 Comparative Example 2 520 290 Comparative Example 3 480 280 Comparative Example 4 530 300 Comparative Example 5 500 320

[0059] The data in the table show that in Examples 1 to 3, as the concentration of amino acid surfactant increased from 15% to 25%, the foaming ability was enhanced and the foam volume increased. In Example 2, the foam stability (half-life) reached its peak when the ratio was 4:1 due to the best surfactant synergistic effect. Although the foaming amount was the highest under the ratio conditions in Example 3, the half-life decreased slightly due to the increased viscosity of the system.

[0060] In Examples 4-6, the ratio of glycerol to butylene glycol was adjusted. Since glycerol is a high-viscosity humectant, its content change has a dual effect on foam performance. Specifically, at low concentration (1%, Example 4), the foaming inhibition effect is weak. Due to the low viscosity of the system, bubbles are more easily generated, so the foam volume is slightly higher than that in Example 1, but the foam film strength is insufficient and the half-life is shortened. At medium concentration (5%, Example 5), its performance is between that of Example 1 and Example 4. The foam volume decreases slightly and the half-life increases slightly. When it is at a high concentration (15%, Example 6), the viscosity of the system increases significantly, inhibiting foam generation and causing the volume to decrease. However, at the same time, it enhances the viscosity and toughness of the foam film, which significantly prolongs the half-life.

[0061] In Comparative Example 1, the zwitterionic surfactant (cocamidopropyl hydroxysulfonate) was completely absent, resulting in the loss of foaming synergy and a significant decrease in foam volume and half-life.

[0062] In Comparative Example 2, an organosilicon component was added, which disrupted the stability of the bubble film, resulting in a lower foam volume and half-life compared to Basic Examples 1-3.

[0063] As can be seen from the above, the facial cleansing compositions prepared in Examples 1-3 are significantly better than those in Comparative Example 1 (which does not contain zwitterionic surfactants) and Comparative Example 2 (which contains silicone oil) in terms of foam quantity and stability, proving that the composition system of the present invention has excellent self-foaming and foam-stabilizing capabilities.

[0064] Application Example 2

[0065] The makeup removal power of the makeup-removing and cleansing compositions prepared in each embodiment and comparative example was tested.

[0066] In VITRO-SKIN ® Apply 0.02 g of waterproof lipstick (MacRubyWoo) and waterproof mascara (KissMe) evenly to artificial skin and allow it to dry for 30 minutes. Take 0.5 g of sample foam, massage it onto damp skin for 30 seconds, and rinse with water. Measure the color difference ΔE of the artificial skin before and after rinsing using a Color-Eye® color analyzer. The larger the ΔE value, the stronger the makeup removal power. The results are shown in Table 6.

[0067] Table 6. Makeup Removal Power Test Results (Color Difference ΔE) sample Waterproof lipstick ΔE Waterproof mascara ΔE Example 1 26.2 23.5 Example 2 28.5 25.8 Example 3 27.8 25.1 Example 4 25.7 23.1 Example 5 26.0 23.3 Example 6 25.3 22.8 Example 7 26.2 23.5 Example 8 25.5 22.9 Example 9 25.1 22.5 Comparative Example 1 15.3 12.1 Comparative Example 2 29.8 26.5 Comparative Example 3 22.4 19.8 Comparative Example 4 24.3 21.8 Comparative Example 5 23.7 21.2

[0068] As can be seen from the data in Table 6, the makeup removal power test results are highly consistent with the trend of foam performance.

[0069] Since the makeup removal power of a makeup remover and cleanser composition is mainly determined by the total concentration of surfactants and their synergistic effect, the results in the table show that Example 2 has the best surfactant synergistic effect, the highest ΔE value, the strongest emulsification and solubilization ability for oil-based makeup (lipstick, mascara), and the best makeup removal power; although Example 3 has a higher surfactant concentration, the synergistic effect is slightly reduced due to the imbalance of the ratio, and the makeup removal power is slightly inferior to Example 2.

[0070] Comparative Example 1 completely lacks zwitterionic surfactants, and the amino acid surfactants alone are insufficient to effectively emulsify the film-forming agents and oils in waterproof makeup, resulting in a significant decrease in ΔE value and poor makeup removal power.

[0071] In addition, although the ratio of glycerin to butylene glycol was adjusted in Examples 4 to 6, since glycerin is a moisturizer, it mainly affects the viscosity and skin feel of the system and has little effect on the makeup removal power. Therefore, the change in glycerin content in Examples 4 to 6 did not significantly change the effective concentration of the surfactant, so the ΔE value was close to that of Example 1, and the makeup removal power was good.

[0072] As can be seen from the above, the makeup removal power of the compositions provided by the present invention far exceeds that of simple amino acid facial cleansing systems (Comparative Example 1), effectively breaking the technical prejudice that oil-free systems cannot achieve strong makeup removal.

[0073] Application Example 3

[0074] The combination prepared in Example 2 was used as a sample for human skin mildness testing.

[0075] Thirty volunteers with sensitive skin were recruited for a single closed patch test. The results showed that all volunteers had no adverse reactions to the makeup remover and cleanser composition sample prepared in Example 1 (irritation rate of 0%), which indicates that the silicone-free amino acid foam makeup remover and cleanser composition provided by the present invention has extremely high gentleness.

[0076] In summary, the silicone-free amino acid foaming makeup remover and cleanser composition provided by this invention successfully constructs a pure, gentle, and highly effective cleansing system through the creative compounding of amino acid surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, and polyols. This system achieves makeup removal power and foaming experience comparable to silicone-containing products without relying on silicone oil or any alternative oils, providing the market with an innovative product that truly embodies the concept of "pure beauty" and possesses promising market application prospects.

[0077] The above are merely preferred embodiments of the present invention and do not limit the scope of the patent. All equivalent changes and modifications made within the scope of the present invention should still fall within the scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A silicone oil-free amino acid foam-based makeup-removing cleansing composition characterized by comprising, It is composed of: Amino acid surfactant 10%~30%, zwitterionic surfactant 3%~10%, polyol 5%~20%, pH regulator is used to adjust the pH of the composition to 5.0~6.5, and the balance is water; Among them, the amino acid surfactant is selected from at least one of the following: potassium cocoyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, and sodium cocoyl propionate; The zwitterionic surfactant is selected from at least one of the following: cocamidopropyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, sodium lauroamphoacetate, and cocobetaine; The polyol is a mixture of glycerol and butanediol.

2. A silicone oil free amino acid based foaming cleansing composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein, The weight ratio of the amino acid surfactant to the zwitterionic surfactant is (3~5):

1.

3. A silicone oil free amino acid based foaming cleansing composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein, In the polyol, the weight ratio of glycerol to butanediol is (1~3):

1.

4. A process for the preparation of a silicone oil free amino acid based foaming make-up removal cleansing composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein, The steps include: (1) Add polyol to water and stir evenly at room temperature to form an aqueous phase; (2) Add amino acid surfactant and zwitterionic surfactant to the aqueous phase, slowly heat to 60~75℃, and stir until the system is completely transparent; (3) Stop heating, slowly stir to cool to below 40℃, and adjust the pH of the system to 5.0~6.5 with a pH regulator; (4) Discharge and fill into foam pump bottles.

5. The production method as claimed in claim 4, characterized in that, In (2), heat to 65~70℃.

6. The method of claim 4, wherein the step of forming the first and second layers is performed by a method comprising: In (3), the pH regulator is lactic acid or citric acid.