Cosmetic composition comprising solid fatty alcohol, cationic surfactant, amphoteric surfactant, specific nonionic polysaccharide and cationic polymer

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising one or more solid fatty alcohols (a), one or more cationic surfactants (b), one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants (c), one or more nonionic polysaccharides (d) selected from nonionic guars, and one or more cationic polymers (e). The composition has a total content of anionic surfactant of less than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight thereof. Such a composition can be used to care for keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to a cosmetic composition, particularly a hair care composition, comprising at least one solid fatty alcohol, at least one cationic surfactant, at least one amphoteric surfactant, at least one nonionic polysaccharide selected from nonionic guar gum, and at least one cationic polymer.

[0002] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method, particularly for the care of keratin fibers, especially human keratin fibers such as hair, the method comprising at least one step of applying a cosmetic composition according to the invention to said fibers.

[0003] The present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition for cosmetic treatments, preferably for the care of keratin fibers, particularly human keratin fibers such as hair. Background Technology

[0004] Natural hair or hair that has been treated with various chemicals may become dull, lacking care, damaged, and brittle due to external atmospheric factors such as light and bad weather, as well as mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent wavy and / or straightening, and repeated washing.

[0005] As a result, the hair eventually becomes neglected (regarding natural hair), or damaged by these various factors, and may become dry, rough, brittle, dull, split, and / or limp in the long run.

[0006] To overcome these drawbacks, the common practice is to use hair care products containing compositions designed to care for and / or condition hair in a suitable way, thereby providing hair with satisfactory cosmetic properties, especially smoothness, shine, and a soft, natural feel (hair is no longer rough).

[0007] These hair care compositions can be, for example, conditioning shampoos, conditioners, hair masks, creams, or serums.

[0008] However, these hair care compositions are not always entirely satisfactory in terms of visual aesthetics such as shine, smoothness, and a natural feel, and / or ease of application and spread across the entire head of hair without dripping.

[0009] Therefore, there is a need for a stable composition that is easy to apply and spread on keratin fibers and provides them with cosmetic properties such as a soft, natural feel (hair is no longer rough), smoothness, shine, softness, lightness, detangling properties that induce easy combing, and good manageability of hair that is therefore easy to shape. Summary of the Invention

[0010] Therefore, the applicant has unexpectedly discovered that a combination of at least one solid fatty alcohol, at least one cationic surfactant, at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, at least one specific nonionic polysaccharide, and at least one cationic polymer allows these needs to be met.

[0011] Therefore, one subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) One or more solid fatty alcohols, (b) One or more cationic surfactants, (c) One or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, (d) One or more nonionic polysaccharides selected from nonionic guar gum, and (e) One or more cationic polymers, The cosmetic composition has a content of one or more anionic surfactants of less than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0012] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is stable and easy to use. In particular, it spreads evenly on keratin fibers with a certain degree of slippage.

[0013] For the purposes of this invention, the term "stable" means that the composition undergoes little or no change (e.g., its visual appearance, its viscosity, or its pH) during a period of storage, particularly within 2 months at 45°C.

[0014] The compositions according to the invention can impart good cosmetic qualities to keratin fibers, especially human keratin fibers such as hair, such as good smoothness, high shine, a soft and natural feel (hair is no longer rough) and softness, as well as an excellent coating that is uniform throughout the entire length of the keratin fibers.

[0015] The subject of this invention is also a cosmetic treatment method, particularly for the care of keratin fibers, especially human keratin fibers such as hair, the method comprising at least one step of applying a cosmetic composition according to the invention to said fibers.

[0016] Another subject of the present invention is the use of cosmetic compositions according to the invention for the care of keratin fibers, particularly human keratin fibers such as hair.

[0017] Other subjects, features, aspects, and advantages of the present invention will become even clearer after reading the following description and examples.

[0018] In the following text and unless otherwise specified, the limits of the range of values ​​are included within the range stated, especially in the expression " Between "and" The range is from... to... "middle.

[0019] The term "at least one" as used in this specification is equivalent to the term " One or more species ".

[0020] Solid fatty alcohols (a)

[0021] The compositions according to the present invention comprise one or more solid fatty alcohols.

[0022] The term "fatty alcohol" refers to a long-chain fatty alcohol containing 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and containing at least one hydroxyl group (OH). These fatty alcohols are neither alkylated nor glycerolized.

[0023] The term "solid fatty alcohol" refers to alcohols produced at atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10⁻⁶). 5 Fatty alcohols with a melting point above 30°C (Pa).

[0024] For the purposes of this invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the maximum endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC), as described in standard ISO 11357-3;1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold by TA Instruments under the name MDSC 2920. In this patent application, all melting points are measured at atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10⁻⁶). 5 Determined under Pa).

[0025] Solid fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated, and can be straight-chain or branched, containing 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have the following structure: R-OH Wherein R represents a straight-chain alkyl group, which may optionally be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, and contains 8 to 40, preferably 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24, and even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0026] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably selected from saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched monohydric alcohols, more preferably straight-chain and saturated, containing 8 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 and even more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms. More preferably, the solid fatty alcohols that can be used are selected from saturated straight-chain monohydric alcohols containing 12 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0027] Solid fatty alcohols that can be used alone or as a mixture may be selected from the following: myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanool); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanool); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanool); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanool); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosahexadecanool); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanool); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanool); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanool); beeswax alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0028] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.

[0029] Preferably, the total amount of solid fatty alcohol ranges from 0.5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 1% to 12% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight.

[0030] Preferably, the total amount of solid fatty alcohols selected from straight-chain saturated monohydric alcohols containing 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms. (a) The range is 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably 1% to 12% by weight, and even more preferably 3% to 10% by weight.

[0031] Cationic surfactant (b)

[0032] The compositions according to the present invention comprise one or more cationic surfactants.

[0033] The term "cationic surfactant" means a surfactant that is positively charged when included in a composition according to the invention. Such a surfactant may carry one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more cationizable functional groups in the composition according to the invention.

[0034] Cationic surfactants are advantageously selected from optional polyoxyalkylene-modified primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts and mixtures thereof.

[0035] As a quaternary ammonium salt, it is worth mentioning in particular: Quaternary ammonium salts of formula (Ia):

[0036] in: Groups R8 to R 11These can be the same or different, representing straight-chain or branched aliphatic groups or aromatic groups such as aryl or alkylaryl groups containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, with groups R8 to R... 11 At least one of them contains 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and these aliphatic groups may contain heteroatoms, especially oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens; and X - It is an anion particularly selected from the group consisting of halide, phosphate, acetate, lactate, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfate, and (C1-C4) alkyl sulfonate or (C1-C4) alkyl aryl sulfonate.

[0037] Aliphatic groups R8 to R 11 Can be selected from C1-C 30 Alkyl, C1-C 30 Alkoxy, (C2-C6) polyoxyalkylene, C1-C 30 Alkylamide, (C 12 -C 22 )alkylamide group (C2-C6) alkyl, acetic acid (C 12 -C 22 )alkyl esters and C1-C 30 Hydroxyalkyl.

[0038] In particular, tetraalkyl ammonium halides, especially tetraalkyl ammonium chlorides such as dialkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride or alkyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, wherein the alkyl group contains 12 to 22 carbon atoms, especially behenyltrimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, cetyltrimethyl ammonium chloride and benzyl dimethyl stearyl ammonium chloride.

[0039] Also mentioned are palmitoylamidopropyltrimethylammonium halide or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristyl acetate)-ammonium halide, and especially ammonium chloride; particularly products sold by Van Dyk under the name Ceraphyl® 70.

[0040] Quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolines of formula (IIa):

[0041] in: R 12 This refers to an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as alkenyl or alkyl groups derived from tallow fatty acids. R 13 Represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms. R 14 Indicates C1-C4 alkyl, R15 Indicates a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group. X - It is an anion particularly selected from the group consisting of halide, phosphate, acetate, lactate, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfate, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfonate or (C1-C4)alkyl aryl sulfonate.

[0042] Preferably, R 12 and R 13 This refers to a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as those derived from tallow fatty acids, R 14 Indicates methyl and R 15 This represents a hydrogen atom. Such products are sold, for example, by Evonik under the names Rewoquat® W75 or W90.

[0043] Di- or tri-quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IIIa):

[0044] in: - R 16 Indicates an alkyl group containing 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and / or optionally intercalated with one or more oxygen atoms. - R 17 Indicating hydrogen, alkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or (CH2)3-N + (R 16a (R) 17a (R) 18a ); R 16a R 17a and R 18a They can be the same or different, representing hydrogen or alkyl groups comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms. - R 18 R 19 R 20 and R 21 They can be the same or different, indicating hydrogen or alkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and - X - It is an anion, especially selected from the group consisting of halide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfate, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfonate and (C1-C4)alkylaryl sulfonate, particularly methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

[0045] Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P (Quaternium 89) and Finquat CT (Quaternium 75), which are sold by Finetex.

[0046] Quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functional groups have the following formula (IVa):

[0047] in: - R 22 Selected from C1-C6 alkyl and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl, - R 23 Selected from group R 26 -C(=O)-; Straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated, based on C1-C 22 The group R of hydrocarbon 27 ; and hydrogen atoms, - R 25 Selected from group R 28 -C(=O)-; R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated group based on C1-C6 hydrocarbons. 29 ; and hydrogen atoms, - R 24 R 26 and R 28 They can be the same or different, selected from straight or branched chains, saturated or unsaturated, based on C7-C. 21 Hydrocarbon groups, - r, s, and t can be the same or different, and are integers ranging from 2 to 6. - r1 and t1 can be the same or different, and can be equal to 0 or 1. - y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10. - x and z can be the same or different, and are integers ranging from 0 to 10. - X - It is an anion. It should be understood that r2 + r1 = 2r and t1 + t2 = 2t, and the sum of x + y + z ranges from 1 to 15. The premise is that when x = 0, then R 23 Instruction R 27 And when z = 0, then R 25 Instruction R 29 .

[0048] Alkyl R 22 It can be linear or branched, preferably linear. Preferably, R 22 Indicates methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl, and more particularly methyl or ethyl.

[0049] Advantageously, the sum of x + y + z is between 1 and 10.

[0050] When R 23 It is based on the hydrocarbon group R. 27 It may contain 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or additionally 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0051] When R 25 It is based on the hydrocarbon group R. 29 When it is used, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0052] Advantageously, R 24 R 26 and R 28 They can be the same or different, selected from straight or branched chains, saturated or unsaturated, based on C 11 -C 21 Hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly selected from straight-chain or branched C groups. 11 -C 21 Alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0053] Preferably, x and z can be the same or different, and can be equal to 0 or 1.

[0054] Advantageously, y equals 1.

[0055] Preferably, r, s, and t can be the same or different, equal to 2 or 3, and even more specifically equal to 2.

[0056] Anion X - Preferably, it is a halide ion (preferably chloride, bromide, or iodide), (C1-C4)alkyl sulfate, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfonate, or (C1-C4)alkylaryl sulfonate, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, toluenesulfonate, anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion compatible with ammonium containing an ester functional group. Anion X- is more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate, or ethyl sulfate.

[0057] In the compositions according to the invention, more particularly ammonium salts of formula (IVa) are used, wherein: - R 22 Indicates methyl or ethyl, - x and y equal 1, - z equals 0 or 1, - r, s, and t equal 2, - R 23 Selected from group R 26 -C(=O)-; methyl, ethyl, or C-based 14 -C 22 Hydrocarbon groups and hydrogen atoms, - R 25 Selected from group R28 -C(=O)-; and hydrogen atoms, - R 24 R 26 and R 28 They can be the same or different, selected from straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated C-based 13 -C 17 The hydrocarbon group, preferably selected from straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated C groups. 13 -C 17 Alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0058] Advantageously, these hydrocarbon-based groups are straight-chain.

[0059] In compounds of formula (IVa), salts may be mentioned, particularly chlorides or methyl sulfates of diacyloxyethyl dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl methylammonium, or monoacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl dimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. These acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from vegetable oils such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be the same or different.

[0060] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyl diethanolamine, or alkyl diisopropanolamine (which are optionally alkylated with oxygen) with fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids, especially those of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification may be followed by quaternization with alkylating agents such as alkyl halides (preferably methyl or ethyl halides), dialkyl sulfates (preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl p-toluenesulfonate, ethylene chloride glycol, or chloroglycerol. Such compounds are marketed, for example, by Henkel under the name Dehyquart®, by Stepan under the name Stepanquat®, by CECA under the name Noxamium®, or by Evonik under the name Rewoquat® WE 18.

[0061] The compositions according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoesters, diesters, and triester salts, wherein the majority by weight is a diester salt. Ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group, as described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180, may also be used. For example, benzyl hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, sold by Kao Corporation under the name Quartamin BTC 131, may also be used.

[0062] Preferably, the ammonium salt containing at least one ester functional group contains two ester functional groups.

[0063] Fatty amines that can be mentioned include amide amines.

[0064] The amide amine according to the present invention can be selected from fatty amide amines, and the fatty chain may be carried by an amine group or an amide group.

[0065] The term "amide amine" refers to a compound that contains at least one amide functional group and at least one primary, secondary, or tertiary amine functional group.

[0066] The term "fatty amide amine" means that it typically contains at least one C6-C based amino acid. 30 Amide groups of hydrocarbon chains. Preferably, the aliphatic amide groups available according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0067] Preferably, the fatty amide amines available according to the present invention are not (poly)oxyalkylene-modified.

[0068] Among the fatty amide amines available according to the present invention, amide amines of the following formula (Va) may be mentioned: RCONHR''N(R' )2 (Va) in: - R represents a substituted or unsubstituted, straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and particularly straight or branched C5-C. 29 And C7-C is preferred. 23 Alkyl groups, or straight-chain or branched C5-C groups 29 And C7-C is preferred. 23 alkenyl; - R'' indicates a divalent hydrocarbon-based group containing fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 3 carbon atoms; and - R' can be the same or different, representing a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched, preferably methyl.

[0069] The fatty amide amine of formula (Va) is selected from, for example, oleamide-propyl dimethylamine, stearamide-propyl dimethylamine, isostearamide-propyl dimethylamine, stearamide-ethyl dimethylamine, lauramide-propyl dimethylamine, myristamide-propyl dimethylamine, betaine-propyl dimethylamine, dimer linoleamide-propyl dimethylamine, palmitamide-propyl dimethylamine, castor oleamide-propyl dimethylamine, soybean oleamide-propyl dimethylamine, avocado oleamide-propyl dimethylamine, cocoamide-propyl dimethylamine, mink oleamide-propyl dimethylamine, oat oleamide-propyl dimethylamine, sesame oleamide-propyl dimethylamine, tall oleamide-propyl dimethylamine, olive oil oleamide-propyl dimethylamine, palmitamide-propyl dimethylamine, stearamide-ethyl diethylamine, rapeseed oleamide-propyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0070] Preferably, the fatty amide amine is selected from oleamide propyl dimethylamine, stearamide propyl dimethylamine, betaine propyl dimethylamine, rapeseed oleamide propyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0071] Preferably, the cationic surfactant (b) is selected from those of formula (Ia), (IVa) or (Va), and more preferably from cetyltrimethylammonium salt, behenyltrimethylammonium salt or dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salt, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, rapeseed oleamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; more preferably from cetyltrimethylammonium salt, behenyltrimethylammonium salt or dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salt and mixtures thereof, and more particularly from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methylammonium sulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methylammonium sulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride or methylammonium sulfate and mixtures thereof.

[0072] The total amount of cationic surfactant (b) present in the composition according to the invention is preferably 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 9% by weight, even more preferably 0.5% to 8% by weight, and even more preferably 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] The total amount of cationic surfactants present in the compositions according to the invention, selected from those of formula (Ia), (IVa) or (Va), and more preferably selected from those having formula (Ia), preferably ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 9% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, and even more preferably from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants (c)

[0075] The compositions according to the present invention comprise one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

[0076] In particular, the preferred non-silicone amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant used in the compositions according to the invention can be, in particular, optionally quaternized derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, wherein the aliphatic group is a straight or branched chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and the amine derivative contains at least one anionic group, such as a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate group.

[0077] It is worth mentioning (C8-C) 20 )alkyl betaine, (C8-C 20 )alkyl sulfonyl betaine, (C8-C 20 )alkylamide (C1-C6)alkyl betaine and (C8-C 20 Alkylamide (C1-C6) alkyl sulfonyl betaine and mixtures thereof.

[0078] Among the optional quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that can be used as defined above, compounds having the following corresponding structures (Xa) and (XIa) may also be mentioned: R a -CONHCH2CH2-N + (R b (R) c )-CH2COO - M + X - (Xa) In equation (Xa): - R a This indicates that the acid R is derived from the acid that is preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut kernel oil. a COOH of C 10 To C 30 Alkyl or alkenyl; preferably, R a Indicates heptyl, nonyl, or undecyl; - R b It represents β-hydroxyethyl; - R c Indicates carboxymethyl; - M + This indicates a cation counter ion derived from alkali metals or alkaline earth metals such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from organic amines; and - X -Represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as an anionic counterion selected from halide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfate, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfonate, or (C1-C4)alkylaryl sulfonate, particularly methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively, M + and X - It does not exist; R a '-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (XIa) In equation (XIa): - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX'; - B' indicates the group -(CH2). z Y', where z = 1 or 2; - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH or CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom; - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z'; - Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from alkali metals or alkaline earth metals such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from organic amines; - R a 'Indicates the acid R, which is preferably present in coconut kernel oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil.' a '-COOH of C 10 To C 30 Alkyl or alkenyl; preferably, R a 'Is an alkyl group, especially C 17 Groups, and their isomers, or unsaturated C 17 Group.

[0079] These compounds were classified in the 5th edition of the CTFA dictionary in 1993 under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroylamphodiacetate, disodium decanoylamphodiacetate, disodium octanoylamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodiapropionate, disodium lauroylamphodiapropionate, disodium decanoylamphodiapropionate, disodium octanoylamphodiapropionate, lauroylamphodiapropionic acid, and cocoamphodiapropionic acid.

[0080] For example, one could mention Rhodia's product under the brand name Miranol. ® C2MConcentrate sells coconut oil-based amphoteric diacetate.

[0081] Compounds of formula (XIIa) can also be used: R a ''-NHCH(Y'')-(CH2) n CONH(CH2) n' -N(R d (R) e (XIIa) In equation (XIIa): - Y'' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ'', or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H, or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z''; - R d and R e Each can be independently represented as a C1 to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group; - Z'' indicates a cationic counter ion derived from alkali metals or alkaline earth metals such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from organic amines; - R a "This indicates that the preferred acid R is found in coconut kernel oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil." a "-COOH of C 10 To C 30 Alkyl or alkenyl; and - n and n' independently indicate integers ranging from 1 to 3.

[0082] Among the compounds of formula (XIIa), the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary as sodium diethylaminopropylcocoyl asparagine and sold by Chimex under the name Chimexane HB may be mentioned.

[0083] These compounds can be used alone or as a mixture.

[0084] Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, (C8-C) is advantageously used. 20 Alkyl betaines, such as cocoyl betaine, (C8-C 20 Alkylamide (C3-C8) alkyl betaines, such as cocamidopropyl betaine, (C8-C... 20 )alkyl amphoteric acetate, (C8-C 20 ) alkyl amphoteric diacetates and mixtures thereof; preferably (C8-C 20 )alkyl betaine, (C8-C 20 )alkylamide (C3-C8)alkyl betaine; and even better (C8-C 20 Alkylamide (C3-C8) alkyl betaine and mixtures thereof.

[0085] Preferably, the total amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (c) is greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably greater than or equal to 1% by weight, even more preferably greater than or equal to 1.5% by weight, even more preferably greater than or equal to 2% by weight, and even more preferably greater than or equal to 2.5% by weight.

[0086] The composition according to the invention contains, preferably, 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably 1% to 12% by weight, more preferably 1.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferably 2% to 6% by weight, or even 2.5% to 5% by weight, of an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (c) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises, preferably, 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably 1% to 12% by weight, more preferably 1.5% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably 2% to 6% by weight, or even 2.5% to 5% by weight, of a material selected from (C8-C) relative to the total weight of the composition. 20 )alkyl betaine, (C8-C 20 The total amount of alkylamide (C3-C8) alkyl betaine and mixtures thereof as amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

[0088] Nonionic polysaccharides (d)

[0089] The compositions according to the present invention comprise one or more nonionic polysaccharides selected from nonionic guar gum.

[0090] The nonionic guar gum (a polymer of mannose and galactose) that can be used according to the present invention can be modified with C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups. Among the C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, for example, hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, and hydroxybutyl can be mentioned.

[0091] These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting a corresponding epoxide, such as propylene oxide, with guar gum to obtain guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

[0092] The degree of hydroxyalkylation is preferably in the range of 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of epoxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum.

[0093] Such nonionic guar gums, optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups, are marketed by Rhodia Chimie under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP105 and Jaguar HP120.

[0094] Preferably, the non-associated nonionic polysaccharide may be selected from nonionic guar gum modified with C1 to C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl, more preferably from hydroxy(C1-C4)alkyl guar gum, and even more preferably from hydroxypropyl guar gum and mixtures thereof.

[0095] The compositions according to the invention may further comprise nonionic polysaccharides different from nonionic guar gum. These may be selected from non-associated nonionic polysaccharides, associated nonionic polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof that are different from nonionic guar gum.

[0096] According to the present invention, polysaccharides are also referred to as polymers containing sugar units.

[0097] For the purposes of this invention, the term "sugar unit" means a hydrocarbon compound containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and containing at least four carbon atoms.

[0098] Sugar units can be optionally modified by substitution and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.

[0099] The sugar units of nonionic polysaccharides are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; dehydrated galactose; and fructose.

[0100] In particular, non-associated nonionic polysaccharides that can be mentioned include natural gums, such as: a) Exudate from trees or shrubs; b) Gum derived from algae, including: - Agar (a polymer derived from galactose and dehydrated galactose); c) Gum derived from seeds or tubers, including: - Locust bean gum (a polymer of mannose and galactose); - Fenugreek gum (a polymer of mannose and galactose); - Tamarind gum (a polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); - Konjac gum (a polymer of glucose and mannose); d) Microbial adhesives, including: - Hard dextran gum (glucose polymer); e) Plant extracts, including: - Cellulose (glucose polymer); - Starch (glucose polymer), and - Inulin.

[0101] These polysaccharides can be modified physically or chemically. Physical treatments, in particular, include temperature.

[0102] Chemical treatments that may be mentioned include esterification, etherification, amidation, or oxidation. These treatments can also produce nonionic polymers.

[0103] Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to locust bean gum, starch, and cellulose.

[0104] Starch molecules can be derived from any plant source of starch, especially corn, potato, oats, rice, cassava, sorghum, barley, peas, or wheat. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above can also be used. Starch preferably originates from potatoes.

[0105] Starch can be chemically or physically modified, particularly by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, and heat treatment.

[0106] Unlike nonionic guar gum, non-associated nonionic polysaccharides can be those that do not contain C in their structure. 10 To C 30 Cellulose-based polymers with fatty chains.

[0107] According to the present invention, the term "cellulose-based polymer" refers to any polysaccharide compound having a sequence of glucose residues linked together via β-1,4 bonds in its structure; cellulose derivatives, other than unsubstituted cellulose, can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric, or nonionic.

[0108] Therefore, the cellulose-based polymers that can be used according to the present invention can be selected from unsubstituted cellulose (including those in microcrystalline form) and cellulose ethers.

[0109] Among these cellulose-based polymers, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, and cellulose ether esters can be distinguished.

[0110] Cellulose esters are inorganic esters of cellulose (nitrocellulose, cellulose sulfate, cellulose phosphate, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetate, cellulose triacetate, cellulose amide propionate, cellulose acetate butyrate, cellulose acetate propionate, or cellulose acetate trimellitate, etc.), and mixed organic / inorganic esters of cellulose such as cellulose acetate butyrate sulfate and cellulose acetate propionate sulfate. Among cellulose ether esters, hydroxypropyl methyl phthalate and ethyl cellulose sulfate may be mentioned.

[0111] Without C8-C 30 Nonionic cellulose ethers with fatty chains, namely " Non-associativeIn this context, (C1-C4)alkyl celluloses, such as methylcellulose and ethylcellulose (e.g., EthocelStandard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy (C1-C4)alkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose (e.g., Natrosol 250 HHR sold by Aqualon), and hydroxypropylcellulose (e.g., Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy (C1-C4)alkyl-(C1-C4)alkyl celluloses, such as hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (e.g., Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethyl methylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose (e.g., Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel), and hydroxybutyl methylcellulose.

[0112] The non-associated nonionic polysaccharides, different from nonionic guar gum, that can be used in the compositions of the present invention can be advantageously selected from those that do not contain C8 to C9. 30 Nonionic cellulose ethers with aliphatic chains and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose and mixtures thereof.

[0113] Associative nonionic polysaccharides may also be mentioned as nonionic polysaccharides that can be used in the compositions according to the invention.

[0114] It should be understood that "associative polymers" are polymers that can reversibly associate with each other or with other molecules in an aqueous medium.

[0115] Their chemical structures are particularly characterized by containing at least one hydrophilic region and at least one hydrophobic region.

[0116] The term "hydrophobic group" refers to a group or polymer having a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0117] Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group can be derived from fatty alcohols such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, or decanol. It can also indicate a hydrocarbon-based polymer, such as polybutadiene.

[0118] The associative polysaccharides that can be used in this invention can be selected from nonionic associative polysaccharides, preferably from nonionic associative cellulose and nonionic associative galactomannan gum.

[0119] Preferably, the associative nonionic polysaccharide is selected from: (1) Cellulose modified with a group containing at least one fatty chain, preferably derived from: - Hydroxyethyl cellulose modified with groups containing at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, aralkyl, or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, wherein said alkyl group is preferably C8 to C9. 22 For example, those sold by Ashland, especially those with the index number Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (C 16 Cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose sold by Ashland Corporation, or Polysurf 67CS. - Hydroxyethyl cellulose modified with polyalkylene glycol alkylphenol ether groups, such as Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenol ether) sold by Amercell Corporation. - and its mixtures; (2) Hydroxypropyl guar gum modified with a group containing at least one fatty chain, such as Esaflor HM 22 (C) sold by Lamberti. 22 Alkyl chain), and RE210-18 (C) sold by Rhodia. 14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C 20 Alkyl chain).

[0120] The associative nonionic polymer can be advantageously selected from cellulose modified with groups containing at least one fatty chain, preferably from hydroxyethyl cellulose modified with groups containing at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, or alkylaryl, or mixtures thereof, and wherein these alkyl groups are preferably C8-C. 22 .

[0121] Preferably, the additional nonionic polysaccharide is selected from non-associated nonionic polysaccharides different from nonionic guar gum, and more particularly from those that do not contain C8-C. 30 Nonionic cellulose ethers with aliphatic chains and mixtures thereof; more preferably selected from hydroxyl (C1-C4) alkyl cellulose and mixtures thereof; and even more preferably selected from hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose and mixtures thereof.

[0122] The total amount of nonionic polysaccharides includes the amount of nonionic guar gum and the amount of optional additional nonionic polysaccharides other than nonionic guar gum.

[0123] Preferably, the total amount of nonionic polysaccharides present in the composition according to the invention is 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, even more preferably 0.2% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably 0.5% to 2% by weight.

[0124] Preferably, the total amount of non-associated nonionic polysaccharides present in the composition according to the invention is 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, even more preferably 0.2% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably 0.5% to 2% by weight.

[0125] Preferably, the nonionic guar gum present in the composition according to the invention is selected from those modified with C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups and does not contain C8-C. 30 The nonionic cellulose ethers with aliphatic chains and mixtures thereof; more preferably, the total amount of nonionic polysaccharides selected from hydroxy(C1-C4)alkyl guar gum, hydroxy(C1-C4)alkyl cellulose and mixtures thereof is 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, even more preferably 0.2% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably 0.5% to 2% by weight.

[0126] Preferably, the total amount of nonionic guar gums, such as those modified with C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl guar gums and mixtures thereof, present in the composition according to the invention is 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, even more preferably 0.2% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0127] Cationic polymers (e)

[0128] The compositions according to the present invention comprise one or more cationic polymers.

[0129] For the purposes of this invention, the term "cationic polymer" means any polymer comprising cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups. Preferably, the cationic polymer is hydrophilic or amphiphilic.

[0130] Cationic polymers are not silicone-based (they do not contain any Si-O units).

[0131] Preferred cationic polymers are selected from those containing units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary, and / or quaternary ammonium groups, which may form part of the polymer backbone or may be carried by side substituents directly attached thereto.

[0132] Preferably, the cationic polymer (e) does not contain any anionic groups or any groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.

[0133] The cationic polymers that can be used preferably have a concentration of approximately 500 to 5 × 10⁻⁶. 6 Between and preferably around 10 3 With 3 × 10 6 The weight-average molar mass (Mw) between them.

[0134] Preferably, the cationic polymer (e) has a charge density of less than 4 meq / g, more preferably less than 3.5 meq / g, and even more preferably 1 to 3.4 meq / g.

[0135] Charge density can be determined using the Kjeldahl method, which is typically measured at a pH of approximately 3 to 9.

[0136] Among cationic polymers, the following deserves more special mention: (1) A homopolymer or copolymer derived from an ester or amide of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid and comprising at least one of the units having the following formula:

[0137] In these formulas: - R1 and R2 can be the same or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl; - R3, which can be the same or different, indicates a hydrogen atom or a CH3 group; - A, which may be the same or different, represents a straight-chain or branched divalent alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R4, R5, and R6 may be the same or different, representing an alkyl or benzyl group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and preferably an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and - X indicates anion derived from inorganic or organic acids, such as methyl sulfate anion or halide ions such as chloride or bromide ions.

[0138] The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers, which may be selected from the family of: acrylamide, methacrylamide, diacetone acrylamide, acrylamide and methacrylamide substituted with a lower (C1-C4) alkyl group on nitrogen, acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or esters thereof, vinyl lactams (such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinyl caprolactam), and vinyl esters.

[0139] Among these copolymers of family (1), the following can be mentioned: - A copolymer of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or dimethyl halide, such as products marketed by Hercules under the name Hercofloc. - A copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as the product sold by Ciba Geigy under the name Bina Quat P 100. - A copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloxyethyltrimethylmethylammonium sulfate, such as the product sold by Hercules under the name Reten. - Quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate copolymers, such as products sold by ISP under the name Gafquat, for example Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively referred to as copolymers 845, 958, and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2077143 and 2393573. - Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymer, such as the product sold by ISP under the name Gaffix VC 713. - Vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymer, such as the product sold by ISP under the name Styleze CC 10; - Quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymer, such as the product sold by ISP under the name Gafquat HS 100; - Polymers of methacryloyloxy (C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium salts, preferably crosslinked polymers, such as polymers obtained by: homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with chloromethane, or copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with chloromethane, which is followed by crosslinking with an olefinic unsaturated compound, particularly methylenebisacrylamide. More particularly, crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) can be used in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. Such dispersions are produced by Ciba under the name Salcare. ®Sold as SC 92. Also available is a cross-linked methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer (polyquaternium-37), which is contained in mineral oil or liquid ester at approximately 50% by weight. These dispersions are manufactured by Ciba under the name Salcare. ® SC 95 and Salcare ® SC 96 for sale; (2) Cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic cellulose and galactomannan gum. Among cationic polysaccharides, cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers, and cationic galactomannan gum may be mentioned more specifically.

[0140] Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups are particularly described in FR 1 492 597, and polymers sold by Amerchol under the names Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125, and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) may also be mentioned. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammonium compounds of hydroxyethyl cellulose that have been reacted with epoxides substituted with trimethylammonium groups. Polyquaternium-10 may be mentioned in particular.

[0141] Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomers are particularly described in patent US 4,131,576, and may be mentioned in particular hydroxyalkyl celluloses grafted with methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium salts, such as hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, or hydroxypropyl cellulose. Commercial products corresponding to this definition are more specifically those sold by National Starch under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100.

[0142] Among cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic associated cellulose can also be used. These cationic associated celluloses can be selected from quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular quaternized cellulose modified with groups containing at least one aliphatic chain, such as straight-chain or branched alkyl, straight-chain or branched aralkyl, or straight-chain or branched alkylaryl, preferably straight-chain or branched alkyl, which contain at least 8 carbon atoms, especially 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 24, or even 10 to 14 carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

[0143] Preferably, reference may be made to quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose modified with groups comprising at least one aliphatic chain, such as straight-chain or branched alkyl, straight-chain or branched aralkyl, or straight-chain or branched alkylaryl, preferably straight-chain or branched alkyl, which contain at least 8 carbon atoms, especially 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 24 or even 10 to 14 carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

[0144] Preferably, hydroxyethyl cellulose of formula (VI) may be mentioned:

[0145] in: - R represents an ammonium group. a R b R c N + -, Q - , where R a R b and R c They can be the same or different, representing hydrogen atoms or straight-chain or branched C1-C. 30 Alkyl, preferably alkyl, and Q - Indicates anion counterions, such as halide ions, for example, chloride or bromide ions; - R' represents the ammonium group R' a R' b R' c N + -, Q' - , where R' a 、R' b and R' c They can be the same or different, representing hydrogen atoms or straight-chain or branched C1-C. 30 Alkyl, preferably alkyl, and Q' - Indicates anion counterions, such as halide ions, for example, chloride or bromide ions; It should be understood that group R a R b R c 、R' a 、R' b and R' c At least one of the C8-Cs represents a straight chain or a branched chain. 30 alkyl; - n, x, and y can be the same or different, representing integers between 1 and 10,000.

[0146] Preferably, in formula (VI), the group R a R b R c 、R' a、R' b or R' c At least one of the C8 to C18 groups represents a straight chain or a branched chain. 30 Even better C 10 To C 24 Or even C 10 To C 14 Alkyl; dodecyl (C) may be specifically mentioned. 12 Preferably, the other groups represent straight-chain or branched C1-C4 alkyl groups, especially methyl groups.

[0147] Preferably, in formula (VI), the group R a R b R c 、R' a 、R' b or R' c Only one of the C8 to C1 symbols in the formula indicates whether it is a straight chain or a branched chain. 30 Even better C 10 To C 24 Or even C 10 To C 14 Alkyl; dodecyl (C) may be specifically mentioned. 12 Preferably, the other groups represent straight-chain or branched C1 to C4 alkyl groups, especially methyl groups.

[0148] Even better, R can be a group selected from the following: -N + (CH3)3, Q' - and

[0149] -N + (C 12 H 25 (CH3)2, Q' - Preferred group -N + (CH3)3, Q' - .

[0150] Even better, R' can be the group -N + (C 12 H 25 (CH3)2, Q' - .

[0151] The aryl group is preferably indicated by phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl, or anthracene.

[0152] Polymers with the following INCI names may be mentioned in particular: - Polyquaternium-24, such as Quatrisoft LM 200 sold by Emcor / Dow Chemical. ® ; - PG-hydroxyethyl cellulose coconut oil dimethyl ammonium chloride, such as in the product Crodacel QM ® ; - PG-hydroxyethyl cellulose lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride (C 12 Alkyl groups), such as the product Crodacel QL ® ;as well as - PG-hydroxyethyl cellulose stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (C 18 Alkyl groups, such as Crodacel QS, a product sold by Croda Corporation. ® .

[0153] Also mentioned is hydroxyethyl cellulose of formula (VI), wherein R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyl dodecyl ammonium halide, preferably R represents trimethylammonium chloride (CH3)3N. + -, Cl - And R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride (CH3)2 (C 12 H 25 )N + -, Cl - This type of polymer is known under the INCI name polyquaternium-67; as a commercial product, Softcat Polymer SL from Imec / Dow Chemical Company can be mentioned. ® Polymers such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5.

[0154] More specifically, the polymer of formula (VI) is, for example, those with a viscosity between 2 and 3 Pa·s (inclusive) (between 2000 and 3000 cPs), preferably between 2.7 and 2.8 Pa·s (between 2700 and 2800 cPs). Typically, Softcat Polymer SL-5 has a viscosity of 2.5 Pa·s (2500 Pa·s), Softcat Polymer SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-60 has a viscosity of 2.7 Pa·s (2700 cPs), and Softcat Polymer SL-100 has a viscosity of 2.8 Pa·s (2800 cPs). Softcat Polymer SX-1300X, with a viscosity between 1 and 2 Pa·s (between 1000 and 2000 cPs), can also be used.

[0155] Cationic galactomannan gum is more specifically described in U.S. Patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, and may also be mentioned in relation to guar gum containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gum modified with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (e.g., chloride) is used. Such products are especially marketed by Rhodia under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17, and Jaguar C162.

[0156] (3) Polymers formed of piperazine units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene containing straight or branched chains, which may optionally be inserted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic rings or heterocycles; and oxidized and / or quaternized products of these polymers; (4) In particular, water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared by polycondensation of acidic compounds with polyamines; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with epihaloalcohols, diepoxides, dianhydrides, unsaturated dianhydrides, diunsaturated derivatives, dihaloalcohols, diazapyridines, dialkyl halides, or alternatively with oligomers produced by the reaction of reactive bifunctional compounds with dihaloalcohols, diazapyridines, dialkyl halides, epihaloalcohols, diepoxides, or diunsaturated derivatives; the crosslinking agent is used in a ratio ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amino group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functional groups, they can be quaternized.

[0157] (5) Polyaminoamide derivatives produced by the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids, followed by alkylation with a bifunctional reagent. For example, adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers may be mentioned, wherein the alkyl group comprises 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably indicates methyl, ethyl, or propyl. Among these derivatives, the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine polymer sold by Sandoz under the names Cartaretine F, F4, or F8 may be mentioned more specifically.

[0158] (6) A polymer obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid, said dicarboxylic acid being selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is preferably between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide is reacted with epichlorohydrin at a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide, preferably between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. This type of polymer is particularly sold by Hercosett 57 by Hercosett, or in the case of adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymer by Hercosett PD 170 or Delsette 101.

[0159] (7) Cyclated polymers of alkyl diallylamines or dialkyl diallylammoniums, such as homopolymers or copolymers containing units corresponding to formula (VII) or (VIII) as the main component of the chain:

[0160] In equations (VII) and (VIII): - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, and the sum of k and t is equal to 1; - R 12 Indicates a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; - R 10 and R 11 Independently indicating alkyl groups containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, wherein the alkyl group contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms of hydroxyalkyl, C1 to C4 amide alkyl; or alternatively, R 10 and R 11 They can indicate heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached; R 10 and R 11 Alkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms are preferred, each independently of the others; and - Y - It is anion, such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, or phosphate.

[0161] More specifically, one can mention, for example, the homopolymers of dimethyl diallyl ammonium salts (e.g., chlorides) such as polyquaternium-6 (and its homologues with low weight-average molar mass) sold by Nalco under the name Merquat 100, and copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium salts (e.g., chlorides) and acrylamide such as polyquaternium-7, which are sold in particular under the names Merquat 550 and Merquat 7SPR; (8) Quaternary diammonium polymers containing repeating units of formula (IX):

[0162] In equation (IX): - R 13 R 14 R 15 and R 16 They can be the same or different, representing an aliphatic, alicyclic, or aryl aliphatic group or a lower hydroxyalkyl aliphatic group containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or alternatively, R 13 R 14 R 15 and R 16 Together or individually, together with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, they form heterocycles that optionally contain a second non-nitrogen heteroatom, or alternatively R 13 R 14 R 15 and R 16 -CO-OR indicates a straight-chain or branched C1 to C6 alkyl group or group substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, or amide group. 17 -D or -CO-NH-R 17 -D, where R 17 It is an alkylene group and D is a quaternary ammonium group; - A1 and B1 represent divalent polymethylene groups containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms. These groups can be straight-chain or branched, and saturated or unsaturated. They can contain one or more aromatic rings bonded to or embedded in the main chain, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms, or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, urea, amide, or ester groups. - X - Indicates anions derived from inorganic or organic acids; It should be understood that A1 and R 13 and R 15 They can form piperazine rings with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached; Additionally, if A1 indicates a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, then B1 can also indicate a group (CH2). n CO-D-OC-(CH2) n - where D indicates: a) Diol residues of formula -OZO-, where Z indicates a straight-chain or branched hydrocarbon-based group or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: -(CH2-CH2-O) x -CH2-CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)-O] y-CH2-CH(CH3)-, where x and y indicate integers from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization; or any numerical value from 1 to 4, representing the average degree of polymerization; b) Bis-secondary diamine residues, such as piperazine derivatives; c) The following primary diamine residue: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y indicates a straight-chain or branched hydrocarbon-based group, or alternatively, a divalent group -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-; or d) Urea group in the following formula: -NH-CO-NH-.

[0163] Preferably, X - These are anions such as chloride or bromide ions. These polymers typically have a number-average molar mass (Mn) between 1,000 and 100,000.

[0164] More specifically, polymers composed of repeating units corresponding to the following formula (X) may be mentioned:

[0165] In formula (X), R1, R2, R3, and R4 can be the same or different, indicating alkyl or hydroxyalkyl groups containing about 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from about 2 to 20, and X - It is an anion derived from inorganic or organic acids.

[0166] The particularly preferred compound of formula (X) is a compound in which R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent methyl groups and n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, and is called hexadimethrine chloride according to INCI (CTFA) nomenclature. (9) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers containing units of formula (XI):

[0167] In equation (XI): - R 18 R 19 R 20 and R 21 These can be the same or different, representing a hydrogen atom or methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl, or CH2CH2(OCH2CH2). p OH group, where p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R 18 R 19 R 20 and R 21 They do not both represent hydrogen atoms. - r and s, which can be the same or different, are integers between 1 and 6. - q is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 34. - X - Indicating anions such as halide ions, and - A indicates a dihalide group or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

[0168] Examples that could be mentioned include Mirapol, a product sold by Miranol. ® A 15, Mirapol ® AD1, Mirapol ® AZ1 and Mirapol ® 175; (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, such as those produced by BASF under the name Luviquat. ® Products sold by FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370; (11) Polyamine, such as Polyquart sold by Cognis. ® H is mentioned in the CTFA dictionary as polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine.

[0169] (12) Polymers whose structure includes the following: (a) One or more units corresponding to the following formula (XII): (XII) (b) Optionally, one or more units corresponding to the following equation (XIII): (XIII) In other words, these polymers may be selected, in particular, from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from ethyleneamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.

[0170] Preferably, these cationic polymers are selected from polymers whose structure includes: 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (XII) and 0 mol% to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (XIII), preferably 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (XII) and 0 mol% to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (XIII).

[0171] These polymers can be obtained, for example, through the partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can occur in acidic or alkaline media.

[0172] The weight-average molecular weight of the polymer, as measured by light scattering, can range from 1,000 to 3,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g / mol.

[0173] The cationic charge density of these polymers can range from 2 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 meq / g, and more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq / g.

[0174] Polymers containing units of type (XII) and optionally units of type (XIII) are sold by BASF under the name Lupamin; for example, products sold in a non-limiting manner under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.

[0175] Preferably, the cationic polymer (e) is selected from polymers of methacryloyloxy (C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)ammonium salts (family (1)), cationic polysaccharides (family (2)) and mixtures thereof, preferably crosslinked polymers.

[0176] More preferably, the cationic polymer (e) is selected from polymers of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-C4)alkylammonium salts, cationic cellulose, cationic galactomannan gum and mixtures thereof, preferably crosslinked polymers; even more preferably selected from crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymers, crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymers (polyquaternium-37), cationic celluloses such as polyquaternium-10 and polyquaternium-67, and mixtures thereof.

[0177] Even better, the cationic polymer (e) is selected from polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-67, and mixtures thereof.

[0178] The total amount of cationic polymer (e) present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferably 0.1% to 2% by weight, and even more preferably 0.2% to 1.5% by weight.

[0179] Preferably, the total amount of the polymer selected from methacryloyloxy (C1-C4) trialkyl (C1-C4) alkylammonium salts (family (1)), cationic polysaccharides (family (2)) and mixtures thereof, preferably crosslinked cationic polymers, is greater than or equal to 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferably 0.1% to 2% by weight, and even more preferably 0.2% to 1.5% by weight.

[0180] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may contain one or more anionic surfactants. However, their total content is less than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than or equal to 0.5% by weight.

[0181] The term "anionic surfactant" refers to a surfactant that contains only anionic groups as ions or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably selected from the following groups: -CO2H, -CO2... - -SO3H, -SO3 - -OSO3H, -OSO3 - -H2PO3, -HPO3 - -PO3 2- -H2PO2, -HPO2 - -PO2 2- -POH and -PO - .

[0182] Examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in compositions include alkyl sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamides, acyl hydroxyethyl sulfonates and N-acyl taurates, N-acyl glycinates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyl lactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether carboxylates, and the corresponding unsalted forms of all these compounds, wherein the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds contain 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl group represents phenyl.

[0183] When anionic surfactants are in salt form, they can be selected from alkali metal salts (such as sodium or potassium salts, with sodium salts being preferred), ammonium salts, amine salts and especially amino alkoxides, or alkaline earth metal salts (such as magnesium salts).

[0184] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not contain any anionic surfactant. In other words, it contains 0% anionic surfactant by weight relative to its total weight.

[0185] The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more non-silicone fatty substances other than solid fatty alcohols, one or more silicones, or mixtures thereof.

[0186] Other non-silicone fatty substances

[0187] The compositions according to the present invention may also contain one or more non-silicone fatty substances other than solid fatty alcohols.

[0188] The term "fatty substance" refers to substances that, at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10⁻⁶), are fatty substances. 5 Organic compounds that are insoluble in water at pressures below 5% (preferably less than 1% by weight and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). The aliphatic substance carries in its structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least six carbon atoms and / or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. Additionally, the aliphatic substance is generally soluble in organic solvents such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petrolatum, or decamethylcyclopentanesiloxane under the same temperature and pressure conditions.

[0189] Other fatty substances that can be used in this invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylene-modified nor (poly)glycerol-modified.

[0190] The term "non-silicone fatty substances" refers to fatty substances that do not contain any Si-O bonds.

[0191] Other non-silicone fatty substances available according to the present invention may be selected from liquid fatty substances (or oils), solid fatty substances, and mixtures thereof. Liquid fatty substances are understood to be those operating at atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10⁻⁶). 5 Fatty substances with a melting point less than or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10⁻⁶ Pa). Solid fatty substances are understood to be those with a melting point less than or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10⁻⁶ Pa). 5 Fatty substances with a melting point greater than 30°C (Pa).

[0192] For the purposes of this invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the maximum endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC), as described in standard ISO 11357-3;1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold by TA Instruments under the name MDSC 2920. In this patent application, all melting points are measured at atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10⁻⁶). 5Determined under Pa).

[0193] More specifically, other non-silicone fatty substances besides solid fatty alcohols that can be used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be selected from C6-C6. 16 Liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type oils of plant or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0194] It should be noted that fatty alcohols, fatty esters, and fatty acids more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising 8 to 40, and more preferably 10 to 30, carbon atoms, which is optionally, particularly, substituted with one or more (especially 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0195] Regarding C6-C 16 Liquid hydrocarbons, which may be straight-chain, branched, or optionally cyclic, and are preferably selected from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, or isochain alkanes (such as isohexadecane or isodecane), and mixtures thereof.

[0196] Liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms may be straight-chain or branched, and are of inorganic or synthetic origin, and are preferably selected from liquid paraffin or liquid petrolatum, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutylene (such as Parleam®) and mixtures thereof.

[0197] As an animal-derived hydrocarbon-based oil (or non-silicone oil), fully hydrogenated squalene can be mentioned.

[0198] The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably selected from liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic acid or caprylic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, such as coconut oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, almond oil, macadamia nut oil, aurora oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides (such as those sold by Stéarinerie Dubois or by Dynamit Nobel under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818), jojoba oil and shea butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0199] Regarding fluorinated oils, they may be selected from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, marketed by BNFL Fluorochemicals under the names Flutec® PC1 and Flutec® PC3; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes, such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecylfluorohexane marketed by 3M under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060®, or brominated perfluorooctyl bromomarketed by Atochem under the name Foralkyl®; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; and perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine marketed by 3M under the name PF 5052®.

[0200] The liquid fatty alcohols suitable for use in this invention are more particularly selected from straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolized. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenic acid alcohol, castor oil alcohol, undecenool and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleyl alcohol will be used.

[0201] Regarding the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols mentioned above, excluding triglycerides, saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain C1 to C2 esters are particularly noteworthy. 26 Or branch C3 to C 26 Aliphatic monocarboxylic acids or polycarboxylic acids with saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain C1 to C2 bonds. 26 Or branch C3 to C 26 Esters of aliphatic monohydric alcohols, wherein the total number of carbon atoms is greater than or equal to 8 and more preferably greater than or equal to 10.

[0202] Preferably, for liquid esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohol and acid is branched.

[0203] Among liquid monoesters, the following may be mentioned: dihydroabenyl benz ...

[0204] Preferably, in C1-C 26 Monobasic acids and C1-C 26 In the monohydric alcohol monoester, the total number of carbons in the ester is greater than or equal to 6, ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristate esters such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecanyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0205] You can also use C4 to C 22 Dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1 to C2 22 Esters of monohydric alcohols and mono, di, or tricarboxylic acids with C2 to C3 26 Esters of di-, tri-, tetra-, or penta-hydroxy alcohols.

[0206] In particular, the following may be mentioned: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearate adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecenoate; octyl dodecyl stearate; pentaerythritol monoricinoleate; pentaerythritol tetraisononanoate; pentaerythritol tetranonanoate; pentaerythritol tetraisostearate; pentaerythritol tetraoctyl ester; propylene glycol dioctanoate; propylene glycol didecanoate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearate citrate; trilactyl triglyceride; trioctyl trioctanoate; trioctyl dodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; polyethylene glycol distearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0207] The composition may also contain C6 to C 30 C is preferred 12 To C 22 Glycoesters and diesters of fatty acids are fatty acid esters. It should be understood that the term "sugar" refers to an oxygen-containing hydrocarbon-based compound having several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and containing at least four carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides other than the anionic polysaccharides described below.

[0208] Suitable examples of sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or cane sugar), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose, and their derivatives, especially alkyl derivatives such as methyl derivatives, for example, methyl glucose.

[0209] The fatty acid esters can be selected, in particular, from the group consisting of: the previously described sugars and straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6 to C6 fatty acids. 30 And C is preferred 12 To C 22Esters or mixtures of fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0210] These esters can also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0211] These esters can be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, benzyl ester, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenic acid ester, decanoate, arachidonic acid ester or mixtures thereof, especially mixed esters such as oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmo-stearate.

[0212] More specifically, mono- or di-oleate, stearate, benzyl ester, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenic acid ester and oleic acid stearate, and mixtures thereof, are used, especially mono- or di-oleate of sucrose, glucose or methyl glucose.

[0213] One example that can be mentioned is a product sold by Imec Corporation under the name Glucate® DO, which is methyl gluconate dioleate.

[0214] Solid fatty substances preferably have a temperature of 25°C and a cooking time of 1 second. -1 Viscosities greater than 2 Pa·s measured at shear rates of .

[0215] Solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably selected from those derived from C9-C. 26 Fatty acids and / or C9-C 26 Esters of fatty alcohols.

[0216] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of straight-chain or branched saturated carboxylic acids containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and esters of straight-chain or branched saturated monohydric alcohols containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and more particularly 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0217] You can also use C4-C 22 Dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C 22 Esters of alcohols and mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids with C2-C 26 Esters of di-, tri-, tetra-, or pentahydroxy alcohols.

[0218] In particular, cetyl lactate, stearyl caprylate, octyl caprylate, cetyl caprylate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, octyl nonanoate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0219] Preferably, the solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols are selected from palmitic acid C9-C. 26 Alkyl esters, especially myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, and stearyl palmitate; myristic acid C9-C 26 Alkyl esters, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate, and myristyl myristate; stearic acid C9-C 26 Alkyl esters, especially myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.

[0220] Preferably, the non-silicone fatty substances other than solid fatty alcohols are selected from mineral-derived liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, especially branched liquid fatty alcohols, triglyceride oils from plant or synthetic sources, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. Liquid paraffin or liquid petrolatum is preferred, especially branched liquid fatty alcohols (such as octyldodecanool, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanool, 2-undecylpentadecanool, or isostearyl alcohol), triglyceride oils from plant sources (such as coconut oil), and mixtures thereof. More preferably, liquid paraffin or liquid petrolatum, coconut oil, or mixtures thereof will be used.

[0221] When present, the total amount of non-silicone fatty substances other than solid fatty alcohols is preferably in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0222] silicone

[0223] The compositions according to the present invention may also contain one or more silicones.

[0224] The silicones that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be soluble or insoluble; they can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or adhesives; silicone oils and adhesives are preferred.

[0225] Silicones are described in particular detail in Walter Noll's... Chemistry and Technology of Silicones [Silicone Chemistry and Technology](1968), Academic Press.

[0226] Volatile silicones can be selected from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure), and more particularly from: i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms, such as - Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0227] Products sold by Union Carbide under the name Volatile Silicone 7207, or by Rhodia under the name Silbione 70045 V 2, or by Union Carbide under the name Volatile Silicon 7158, or by Rhodia under the name Silbione 70045 V 5 may be mentioned. - Cyclic copolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type with the following chemical structures:

[0228] Volatile Silicone FZ 3109, sold by Union Carbide Corporation, may be mentioned.

[0229] - Mixtures of cyclic silicones and silicon-based organic compounds, such as mixtures of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilyl pentaerythritol (50 / 50) and mixtures of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and 1,1'-oxy(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)bisnepentane; ii) Straight-chain polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which typically have a strength of less than or equal to 5 × 10⁻⁶ at 25°C. -6 m 2 Viscosity of / s, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.

[0230] Other silicones belonging to this category are discussed in an article by Todd & Byers in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 1976, pp. 27-32. Volatile Silicone Fluids For Cosmetics [Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics] It is described in the text; it may be mentioned that the product is sold by Toray Silicone under the name SH 200.

[0231] Among non-volatile silicones, alone or in mixtures, polydialkylsiloxanes and especially polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone sealants and resins, as well as organopolysiloxanes (or organically modified polysiloxanes, or alternatively organically modified silicones) that contain one or more organic functional groups in their structure, which are typically attached by hydrocarbon-based groups and are preferably selected from aryl, amino, alkoxy, and polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene groups.

[0232] Organically modified silicones can be polydiarylsiloxanes (especially polydiphenylsiloxanes) and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the previously mentioned organic functional groups. Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly selected from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.

[0233] Among organically modified silicones, organopolysiloxanes can be mentioned, which include: - Optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl polyoxyethylene and / or polypropylene groups, such as polydimethylsiloxane copolyols, and especially those sold by Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or from Union Carbide's Silwet® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711; or alternatively (C12) alkyl polymethylsiloxane copolyols, and especially those sold by Dow Corning under the name Q2-5200; - Substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, especially C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups; reference may be made to products sold by Genesee under the names GP4 Silicone Fluid and GP7100, or by Dow Corning under the names Q2-8220 and DC929 or DC939. - Thiol groups, such as those found in Genesee products marketed under the names GP 72 A and GP 71; - Alkoxylation groups, such as those sold by SWS Silicones under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 and by Goldschmidt under the names Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440; - Hydroxylation groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes with hydroxyalkyl functional groups; - Acyloxyalkyl, such as the polyorganosiloxane described in patent US-A-4 957 732; - Anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, such as those described in EP 186 507, or anionic groups of the alkyl carboxylic acid type, such as product X-22-3701E from Shin-Etsu Corporation; or alternatively, anionic groups of the 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfate type, such as products sold by Goschmidt under the names Abil® S201 and Abil® S255; - Hydroxyacylamino, such as the polyorganosiloxane described in patent application EP 342 834; for example, product Q2-8413 from Dow Corning may be mentioned.

[0234] Silicones can also be selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups are particularly noteworthy. Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be mentioned: - Silbione® oil or Mirasil® oil of the 47 and 70 047 series sold by Rhodia, such as oil 70 047 V 500 000; - Oils from the Mirasil® series sold by Rhodia; - Oils from Dow Corning's 200 series, such as those with a 60,000 mm... 2 The viscosity of DC200 / s; - Viscasil® oil from General Electric, and certain oils from General Electric's SF series (SF 96, SF 18).

[0235] Also mentioned are polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsiloxane end groups known by the name polydimethylsiloxane alcohol (CTFA), such as oils from Rhodia's 48 series.

[0236] Among this category of polydialkylsiloxanes, one can also mention products sold by High Schmidt under the names Abil Wax® 9800 and 9801, which are poly(C1-C20)dialkylsiloxanes.

[0237] More specifically, the products that can be used according to the present invention are mixtures, such as: - A mixture of polydimethylsiloxane or polydimethylsiloxane alcohol (CTFA) with hydroxyl-terminated chains and cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, also known as cyclic polydimethylsiloxane (CTFA), such as product Q2-1401 sold by Dow Corning.

[0238] Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly selected from those having a concentration in the range of 1 × 10⁻⁶ at 25°C. -5Up to 5 × 10 -2 m 2 The viscosity of straight-chain and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxane and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxane is / s.

[0239] Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, products sold under the following names may be mentioned: - Silbione® oil from Rhodia's 70 641 series; - Oils from Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia; - Oil from Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid; - Silicones from Bayer's PK series, such as product PK20; - Silicones from Bayer's PN and PH series, such as products PN1000 and PH1000; - Certain oils from General Electric's SF series, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF1265.

[0240] The silicone that can be used may be an amino silicone. The term "amino silicone" refers to any silicone that contains at least one primary, secondary, or tertiary amine or quaternary ammonium group.

[0241] The weight-average molecular weight of these amino silicones was measured as polystyrene equivalents at room temperature (25°C) by gel permeation chromatography (GPC). A µ-polystyrene cross-linked copolymer column was used. The eluent was THF, and the flow rate was 1 ml / min. 200 µl of a 0.5% by weight solution of silicone in THF was injected. Detection was performed by refractive index and UV spectroscopy.

[0242] Preferably, the aminosilicone that can be used in the context of this invention is selected from: a) Polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A):

[0243] Where x' and y' are integers that make the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) approximately between 5,000 and 500,000; b) The amino silicone corresponding to formula (B): R' a G 3-a -Si(OSiG2) n -(OSiG b R' 2-b ) m-O-SiG 3-a -R' a (B) in: - G, which can be the same or different, indicates a hydrogen atom or a group derived from phenyl, OH, C1-C8 alkyl such as methyl, or C1-C8 alkoxy such as methoxy; - a, which can be the same or different, indicates 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, especially 0. - b indicates 0 or 1, especially 1. - m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n + m) is in the range of 1 to 2000 and especially 50 to 150, n may indicate a number from 0 to 1999 and especially 49 to 149, and m may indicate a number from 1 to 2000 and especially 1 to 10; - R' can be the same or different, indicating -C q H 2q L is a monovalent group, where q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an optional quaternized amino group selected from the following groups: -N(R")2;-N + (R")3 A - -NR"-QN(R")2 and -NR"-QN + (R")3 A - , Where "R" can be the same or different, indicating hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based group, such as C1-C2. 20 Alkyl; Q indicator C r H 2r The straight-chain or branched group, r is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A - This indicates the anions that are acceptable in cosmetics, especially halide ions such as fluoride, chloride, bromide, or iodide ions.

[0244] Preferably, the amino silicone is selected from amino silicones of formula (B). Preferably, the amino silicone of formula (B) is selected from amino silicones corresponding to formulas (C), (D), (E), (F) and / or (G).

[0245] Therefore, the aminosilicone corresponding to formula (B) can be selected (alone or as a mixture): b-1) Corresponding to the "trimethylsilylamino-terminated polydimethylsiloxane" silicone of formula (C):

[0246] Where m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n + m) is in the range of 1 to 2000 and especially 50 to 150, n may indicate numbers from 0 to 1999 and especially 49 to 149, and m may indicate numbers from 1 to 2000 and especially 1 to 10.

[0247] b-2) Silicones of the following formula (D):

[0248] in: - m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n + m) is in the range of 1 to 1000, especially 50 to 250 and more particularly 100 to 200; n may indicate numbers from 0 to 999, especially 49 to 249 and more particularly 125 to 175, and m may indicate numbers from 1 to 1000, especially 1 to 10 and more particularly 1 to 5; - R1, R2 and R3, which may be the same or different, represent hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy groups, with at least one of R1 to R3 indicating an alkoxy group.

[0249] Preferably, the alkoxy group is a methoxy group.

[0250] The preferred range for the hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio is 0.2:1 to 0.4:1, and more preferably 0.25:1 to 0.35:1, and more particularly equal to 0.3:1.

[0251] The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these silicones is preferably in the range of 2,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly 3,500 to 200,000; b-3) Silicones of the following formula (E):

[0252] in: - p and q are numbers such that the sum of (p + q) is in the range of 1 to 1000, especially 50 to 350, and more particularly 150 to 250; p may indicate numbers from 0 to 999, especially 49 to 349, and more particularly 159 to 239, and q may indicate numbers from 1 to 1000, especially 1 to 10, and more particularly 1 to 5; - R1 and R2 are different, representing hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy groups, with at least one of R1 or R2 indicating an alkoxy group.

[0253] Preferably, the alkoxy group is a methoxy group.

[0254] The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio typically ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and is preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1, and more particularly equal to 1:0.95.

[0255] The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably in the range of 2,000 to 200,000, even more particularly 5,000 to 100,000 and more particularly 10,000 to 50,000.

[0256] Commercial products containing silicones having structure (D) or (E) may contain one or more other aminosilicones with structures different from those of formula (D) or (E) in their composition.

[0257] Products containing amino silicones with structure (D) are marketed by Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM652.

[0258] Products containing amino silicones with structure (E) are marketed by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®.

[0259] When using these amino silicones, particularly advantageous embodiments include their use in the form of oil-in-water emulsions. Oil-in-water emulsions may contain one or more surfactants. Surfactants may have any properties, but are preferably cationic and / or nonionic. The number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion typically ranges from 3 nm to 500 nm. Preferably, especially as amino silicones of formula (E), microemulsions with an average particle size range of 5 nm to 60 nm (inclusive) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (inclusive) are used. Therefore, according to the invention, amino silicone microemulsions of formula (E) sold by Wacker Chemie under the names Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® can be used; b-4) Silicones of the following formula (F):

[0260] in: - m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n + m) is in the range of 1 to 2000 and especially 50 to 150, n may indicate a number from 0 to 1999 and especially 49 to 149, and m may indicate a number from 1 to 2000 and especially 1 to 10; - A indicates a straight-chain or branched alkylene group containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably straight-chain.

[0261] The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these aminosilicones is preferably in the range of 2,000 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly 3,500 to 200,000.

[0262] The silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, the Xiameter MEM 8299 emulsion from Dow Corning.

[0263] b-5) Silicones of the following formula (G):

[0264] in: - m and n are numbers such that the sum of (n + m) is in the range of 1 to 2000 and especially 50 to 150, n may indicate a number from 0 to 1999 and especially 49 to 149, and m may indicate a number from 1 to 2000 and especially 1 to 10; - A indicates a straight-chain or branched alkylene group containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably branched.

[0265] The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000.

[0266] The silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, the DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Corning. c) The aminosilicone corresponding to formula (H):

[0267] in: - R5 indicates a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and particularly C1-C. 18 Alkyl or C2-C 18 Alkenyl groups, such as methyl groups; - R6 indicates a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially C1-C. 18 Alkylene, or divalent C1-C 18 For example, C1-C8 alkylene oxides are linked to Si via SiC bonds; - Q - It is anion, such as halide ions, especially chloride ions, or organic acid salts, especially acetates; - r represents the average statistic in the range of 2 to 20, and in particular 2 to 8; -s represents the average statistic ranging from 20 to 200, and more specifically from 20 to 50.

[0268] Such amino silicones are particularly described in patent US 4,185,087.

[0269] - d) Quaternary ammonium silicone of formula (I):

[0270] in: - R7, which can be the same or different, represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and especially C1-C. 18 Alkyl, C2-C 18 Alkenyl or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, such as methyl; - R6 indicates a divalent hydrocarbon-based group, especially C1-C. 18 Alkylene, or divalent C1-C 18 For example, C1-C8 alkylene oxides are linked to Si via SiC bonds; - R8, which can be the same or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a monovalent group based on hydrocarbons containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and especially C1-C. 18 Alkyl, C2-C 18 Alkenyl or group -R6-NHCOR7; - X - It is anion, such as halide ions, especially chloride ions, or organic acid salts, especially acetates; - r represents the average statistic ranging from 2 to 200, and in particular from 5 to 100.

[0271] These silicones are described, for example, in patent EP-A 0 530 974; e) Aminosilicone of formula (J):

[0272] in: - R1, R2, R3, and R4, which may be the same or different, indicate C1-C4 alkyl or phenyl groups. - R5 indicates C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyl groups. - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5. - m is an integer in the range of 1 to 5, and - Choose x such that the amine value ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq / g; f) (AB)n type of multi-block polyoxyalkylene amino silicone, where A is a polysiloxane block and B is a polyoxyalkylene block containing at least one amine group.

[0273] The silicone is preferably formed from repeating units having the following general formula: [-(SiMe2O) xSiMe2-RN(R”)- R'-O(C2H4O) a (C3H6O) b -R'-N(H)-R-] Or alternatively [-(SiMe2O) x SiMe2-RN(R")-R'-O(C2H4O) a (C3H6O) b -] in: - a is greater than or equal to 1, preferably in the range of 5 to 200, and more particularly in the range of 10 to 100. - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably between 4 and 100, and more particularly between 5 and 30; - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,000, and more specifically from 10 to 5,000; - R'' is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; - R, which can be the same or different, indicates the binary valence of a straight chain or a branch chain based on C2-C. 12 The hydrocarbon group may optionally contain one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R indicates an ethylene, a straight-chain or branched propylene, a straight-chain or branched butylene, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- group; preferably, R indicates a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- group. - R', which can be the same or different, indicates the binary valence of a straight chain or a branch chain based on C2-C. 12 The hydrocarbon group may optionally contain one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' indicates an ethylene, straight-chain or branched propylene, straight-chain or branched butylene or CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- group; preferably, R' indicates -CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[0274] The siloxane block preferably accounts for between 50 mol% and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly between 70 mol% and 85 mol%.

[0275] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of the copolymer in a 30% solution of dipropylene glycol by weight, and more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2 meq / g.

[0276] The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5,000 and 1,000,000, and more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000.

[0277] In particular, one can mention the silicones sold by Momentive under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+; g) and its mixtures.

[0278] The silicone is preferably selected from aminosilicones, and more preferably from aminosilicones of formulas (A), (D), (E), (F) and (G) above, and mixtures thereof. 。

[0279] Advantageously, when silicones are present, their total content ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.8% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0280] Even better, the aminosilicone may be present in the composition in a total amount preferably ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.8% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0281] The composition according to the invention is preferably aqueous. The amount of water is preferably greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably 60% to 98% by weight, even more preferably 65% ​​to 90% by weight, and even more preferably 70% to 85% by weight.

[0282] The pH of the compositions according to the invention is generally in the range of 2.5 to 8.5, preferably 3 to 8, and even more preferably 4 to 7.5.

[0283] The compositions according to the invention may further comprise one or more organic solvents selected from straight-chain or branched C2-C4 monohydric alcohols (such as ethanol and isopropanol) and aromatic alcohols or ethers (such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol).

[0284] The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more additives selected from the following: nonionic surfactants; UV shielding agents; fillers such as mother-of-pearl, titanium dioxide, resins and clays; fragrances; peptizers; vitamins; and preservatives.

[0285] Those skilled in the art will carefully select the optional additives and their amounts so that they do not impair the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

[0286] These additives may be present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0287] The subject of this invention is also a cosmetic treatment method, particularly for the care of keratin fibers, especially human keratin fibers such as hair, the method comprising at least one step of applying a composition as previously described to said fibers.

[0288] The composition can be applied directly to wet or dry hair, preferably to wet hair.

[0289] This step of applying the composition according to the invention may optionally be performed before at least one step of washing the fibers with shampoo.

[0290] Optionally, a rinsing step may follow the step of applying the composition according to the invention. Preferably, a rinsing step follows the step of applying the composition according to the invention.

[0291] Furthermore, a drying step may optionally follow this step of applying the composition according to the invention.

[0292] The subject of this invention remains the use of the compositions as previously described for cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, particularly for caring for and / or conditioning keratin fibers.

[0293] More specifically, the compositions according to the invention are used as hair conditioners, and especially as hair masks.

[0294] The following examples are used to illustrate the invention, but are not restrictive in nature. Detailed Implementation

[0295] Example

[0296] Example 1

[0297] The compositions according to the invention are prepared from the ingredients indicated in Table 1 below. The amounts indicated in the table are expressed as a weight percentage (% AM) of the active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0298] [Table 1]

[0299] Composition 1 is stable during storage. In particular, no phase separation was observed after storage at 45°C for 60 days.

[0300] Its thickened texture avoids the risk of running onto the face and allows for easy, even application from the roots to the ends of the hair.

[0301] Apply composition 1 to wet hair, pre-washed with a regular shampoo. Composition 1 spreads easily on keratin fibers.

[0302] Then let it sit for a few minutes and rinse it off.

[0303] After drying, the hair was found to be particularly shiny, soft, and smooth.

[0304] Example 2

[0305] Compositions A and B below are prepared from the ingredients indicated in Table 2 below. Composition A is a composition according to the invention, and composition B is a comparative composition. The amounts indicated in the table are expressed as a weight percentage (% AM) of the active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0306] [Table 2]

[0307] Use a malleable head of moderately sensitized hair, pre-washing it with a standard shampoo.

[0308] Divide the hair on the head into two equal sections. On one side, apply composition A at a rate of 9 g per half head, spreading it evenly from the roots to the ends. Repeat the same procedure on the other half head using composition B.

[0309] The composition was then left to stand for 5 minutes and rinsed off. The properties of wet hair were evaluated in terms of detangling and smoothness.

[0310] Then blow-dry the hair and assess its properties in terms of detangling, smoothness, and gloss.

[0311] To untangle the hair, the expert ran a fine-toothed comb through the hair from top to bottom and assessed how easy it was to comb.

[0312] The assessment of smoothness is tactile. The expert holds a section of hair between his thumb and forefinger and slides his finger along the section from top to bottom. He assesses whether the hair is rough and whether it gets stuck on his fingers.

[0313] The assessment of smoothness is tactile. The expert holds the hair in their hand and tries to bend it. They evaluate whether the hair is easy to bend and whether it is malleable.

[0314] The characteristics were evaluated by five experts trained in hair care product assessment. Each expert determined which side had the easiest detangling, the best smoothness, and the smoothest feel, using the following criteria: « + » When this side has optimal performance, « = » When this side has the same performance, « - » When this side has the worst performance.

[0315] When applying the composition, 100% of experts judged that composition A according to the invention is easier to apply because it is more penetrating.

[0316] The results regarding the detangling and smoothness of wet hair are shown in Table 3 below, and the results regarding the detangling, smoothness, and smoothness of dry hair are shown in Tables 4-5 below.

[0317] [Table 3]: Results on wet hair

[0318] [Table 4]: Results on dry hair

[0319] [Table 5]: Results on dry hair

[0320] Composition A according to the invention allows for significantly improved cosmetic properties in terms of detangling and smoothness on wet hair, as well as detangling, smoothness and smoothness on dry hair.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising: (a) One or more solid fatty alcohols, (b) One or more cationic surfactants, (c) One or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, (d) One or more nonionic polysaccharides selected from nonionic guar gum, and (e) One or more cationic polymers, The composition has a total content of anionic surfactant of less than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that, The solid fatty alcohol (a) is selected from saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched monohydric alcohols containing 8 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, The total amount of solid fatty alcohol (a) ranges from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 12% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The cationic surfactant (b) is selected from cetyltrimethylammonium salt, behenyltrimethylammonium salt and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salt, oleamide propyl dimethylamine, stearamide propyl dimethylamine, behenamide propyl dimethylamine, rapeseed oleamide propyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; and more particularly from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methylammonium sulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methylammonium sulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride or methylammonium sulfate and mixtures thereof.

5. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The total amount of cationic surfactant (b) ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 9% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (c) is selected from (C8-C 20 )alkyl betaine, (C8-C 20 Alkylamide (C3-C8) alkyl betaine and mixtures thereof.

7. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The total amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (c) is greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably greater than or equal to 1% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 1.5% by weight, and even more preferably greater than or equal to 2% by weight.

8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The total amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (c) ranges from 0.5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 12% by weight, more preferably from 1.5% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 2% to 6% by weight.

9. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The nonionic polysaccharide (d) is selected from nonionic guar gum modified with C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl and mixtures thereof; more preferably from hydroxy(C1-C4)alkyl guar gum and mixtures thereof; and even more preferably from hydroxy(C1-C4)alkyl guar gum, such as hydroxypropyl guar gum.

10. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The cationic polymer (e) is selected from polymers of methacryloxy (C1-C4)alkyltris(C1-C4)alkylammonium salts, cationic polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof, and is preferably cross-linked. Furthermore, it is even better selected from polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-67, and mixtures thereof.

11. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The total amount of the cationic polymer (e) is greater than or equal to 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight.

12. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The composition does not contain any anionic surfactants.

13. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The cosmetic composition comprises one or more non-silicone fatty substances other than the solid fatty alcohol, one or more silicones, or a mixture thereof.

14. A cosmetic treatment method, particularly for treating keratin fibers, especially human keratin fibers such as hair, said method comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to any one of the preceding claims to said fibers.

15. Use of the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for cosmetic treatment, particularly for the care of keratin fibers.

Images