Chrysanthemum morifolium extract and composition for relieving allergy and repairing

Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a helichrysum extract and composition for relieving allergy and repairing. The preparation method of the helichrysum extract comprises the following steps: (1) pretreating raw materials; (2) segmented constant-temperature water extraction; (3) preparing a fermentation substrate; (4) anaerobic fermentation: inoculating bifidobacterium adolescentis into the fermentation substrate, closing a vent valve of the fermentation tank after inoculation is completed, maintaining an anaerobic environment, and performing fermentation to obtain fermentation liquor after fermentation is completed; (5) composite enzymatic hydrolysis: adding a compound enzyme into the fermentation broth, carrying out enzymatic hydrolysis, after the enzymatic hydrolysis is finished, carrying out enzyme deactivation, carrying out reduced pressure suction filtration, and collecting the filtrate to obtain an enzymatic hydrolysate; and (6) concentrating, drying and forming: concentrating the enzymatic hydrolysate under reduced pressure, freeze-drying in vacuum, and crushing to obtain the helichrysum extract for relieving allergy and repairing. The composition prepared by compounding the prepared helichrysum extract with other components has excellent anti-allergy and repairing effects.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention belongs to the field of cosmetic technology, specifically relating to immortelle extract and compositions for soothing and repairing sensitive skin. Background Technology

[0002] With the increasing impact of environmental degradation, rising life stress, and improper skincare habits, the number of people with sensitive skin is growing. The core issue of sensitive skin lies in impaired skin barrier function, accompanied by hypersensitivity of nerve endings, easily leading to allergic symptoms such as redness, stinging, and itching. Furthermore, the damaged barrier is difficult to repair itself, creating a vicious cycle of "sensitivity - damaged barrier - increased sensitivity." Therefore, developing skincare compositions that combine rapid soothing and discomfort relief with long-lasting repair of the skin barrier has become one of the core research directions in the cosmetics field.

[0003] Currently, existing soothing and repairing products for sensitive skin generally suffer from a technical pain point: they cannot simultaneously achieve both soothing and repairing effects, resulting in poor synergy and failing to address the root cause of sensitive skin problems. Most existing products focus on only one effect: one type is immediate soothing products, whose core ingredients are mostly cooling and antipruritic agents and temporary anti-inflammatory components (such as menthol and allantoin). While these can quickly relieve surface symptoms such as redness and itching, they cannot act on the damaged skin barrier, leading to frequent recurrences. The other type is barrier repair products, primarily composed of lipid components such as ceramides and squalane, focusing on replenishing the skin barrier lipids, but lacking targeted soothing ingredients, they cannot quickly relieve discomfort during sensitivity flare-ups, resulting in a poor user experience. Neither type of product achieves a synergistic unity between soothing and relieving symptoms and repairing and strengthening the skin barrier, failing to meet the core care needs of sensitive skin.

[0004] Plant extracts are the core active source of soothing and repairing products, but existing technologies for preparing plant extracts generally have defects: for example, the extraction methods are simple and crude, resulting in insufficient dissolution of active ingredients; synergistic processes such as fermentation and enzymatic hydrolysis are not introduced, or the fermentation strains are not properly selected or the enzymatic hydrolysis conditions are not optimized, leading to low content and poor purity of core soothing and repairing active ingredients such as flavonoids and polyphenols in the extracts. Even when these low-activity extracts are used in compound compositions, they cannot form an effective synergy with other ingredients, ultimately resulting in poor soothing and repairing effects of the entire composition.

[0005] Therefore, developing a composition that can achieve synergistic effects of soothing and repair is of great practical significance and market value. Summary of the Invention

[0006] The purpose of this invention is to provide helichrysum extract and compositions for soothing and repairing sensitive skin.

[0007] To achieve the above objectives, the present invention provides the following technical solution: Immortelle extract for soothing and repairing, the preparation method of the immortelle extract includes the following steps: (1) Raw material pretreatment: Select whole herb of immortelle without mold or insect infestation, wash, dry and crush to obtain immortelle powder; (2) Segmented constant temperature water extraction: Add water to the immortelle powder and perform segmented constant temperature water extraction to obtain a mixed extract. Concentrate the extract under reduced pressure to obtain a concentrated paste. (3) Preparation of fermentation substrate; (4) Anaerobic fermentation: Inoculate Bifidobacterium adolescentis into the fermentation substrate. After inoculation, close the aeration valve of the fermenter to maintain an anaerobic environment and carry out fermentation. After fermentation, the fermentation liquid is obtained. (5) Compound enzymatic hydrolysis: Add compound enzyme to fermentation broth for enzymatic hydrolysis. After enzymatic hydrolysis, inactivate the enzyme, filter under reduced pressure, collect the filtrate, and obtain the enzymatic hydrolysate. (6) Concentration, drying and shaping: The enzymatic hydrolysate is concentrated under reduced pressure, freeze-dried under vacuum, and pulverized to obtain the immortelle extract for soothing and repairing.

[0008] Preferably, the segmented constant temperature water extraction specifically includes the following steps: heating to 85-90℃ and extracting at a constant temperature for 1-2 hours; filtering after extraction and collecting the first extract; purifying water into the filter residue, continuing to heat to 85-90℃ and extracting at a constant temperature for 1-1.5 hours; filtering and collecting the second extract; combining the two extracts to obtain a mixed extract.

[0009] The preferred inoculum is Bifidobacterium adolescentis, with an inoculum size controlled at (1.0-1.2) × 10⁻⁶. 9 CFU / mL fermentation substrate.

[0010] Preferably, the fermentation conditions are: the fermentation temperature is controlled at 35-37℃, and the constant temperature fermentation time is 20-25h.

[0011] Preferably, the complex enzyme includes cellulase and pectinase.

[0012] Preferably, the complex enzyme comprises cellulase and pectinase in an enzyme activity ratio of (3-4):(2-3).

[0013] Preferably, the amount of compound enzyme added is 0.6-0.8% of the total mass of the fermentation broth.

[0014] Preferably, the enzymatic hydrolysis conditions are: heating to 50-55℃ and isothermal hydrolysis for 2.5-3.0 hours.

[0015] This invention provides a composition comprising a helichrysum extract for soothing and repairing, comprising the following components in parts by weight: 4-7 parts kava pepper root extract, 5-8 parts mung bean seed extract, 6-9 parts purslane extract, 3-6 parts gentian root extract, 7-10 parts helichrysum extract, 2-5 parts bifida lysate, 1-3 parts palmitoyl tripeptide-8, and 1-3 parts acetyl tetrapeptide-9.

[0016] The method for preparing the composition containing helichrysum extract for soothing and repair includes the following steps: mixing kava root extract, mung bean seed extract, purslane extract, gentian root extract, helichrysum extract, bifida ferment lysate, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, and acetyl tetrapeptide-9 evenly to obtain the composition containing helichrysum extract for soothing and repair.

[0017] Compared with the prior art, the advantages and beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows: 1. This invention employs a combined process of segmented constant-temperature water extraction, specific anaerobic fermentation, and complex enzymatic hydrolysis to prepare immortelle extract. This significantly enhances the soothing and repairing activity of the extract. Segmented water extraction fully releases the flavonoids and polyphenolic active precursors in immortelle. Fermentation with specific anaerobic strains efficiently converts these precursors into smaller molecule active ingredients that more easily penetrate the skin barrier. The subsequent complex enzymatic hydrolysis further eliminates impurities and improves the purity of the active ingredients. The entire process is gentle and controllable, maximizing the preservation of the structural integrity of the active ingredients and avoiding damage from high temperatures or chemical reagents. The resulting immortelle extract exhibits significantly superior soothing and repairing core activities compared to existing products.

[0018] 2. The multi-component synergistic composition system constructed in this invention achieves a comprehensive upgrade and functional expansion of the soothing and repairing effects. By scientifically combining various plant extracts and bioactive peptides, this invention forms a synergistic network covering multiple aspects such as inflammation suppression, nerve soothing, barrier repair, and collagen regeneration. It can not only quickly relieve immediate symptoms such as erythema and discomfort of sensitive skin, but also repair the damaged skin barrier from the root, achieving long-lasting repair. The proportions of each component have been precisely optimized to avoid antagonistic effects between components, maximize the synergistic effect, and solve the technical pain points of the existing technology, such as single soothing and repairing effects and short duration. Detailed Implementation

[0019] The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below. Obviously, the described embodiments are only some embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art without creative effort are within the scope of protection of the present invention.

[0020] Example 1 This embodiment provides an immortelle extract for soothing and repairing skin, and the preparation method of the immortelle extract includes the following steps: (1) Raw material pretreatment: Select whole herb of immortelle without mold or insect infestation, rinse quickly with clean water to remove surface dust, and dry in a constant temperature drying oven at 45℃ until constant weight with a moisture content of 5wt%. Then, use an ultra-micro pulverizer to pulverize to less than 60 mesh to obtain immortelle powder. (2) Segmented constant temperature water extraction: Put the above immortelle powder into a multi-functional extraction tank, add 12 times the weight of purified water, turn on the stirrer, turn the speed to 120 r / min, heat to 90℃ and extract at a constant temperature for 2 h. After the extraction, filter with a 300 mesh filter cloth and collect the first extract. Add 10 times the weight of purified water to the filter residue, continue to heat to 90℃ and extract at a constant temperature for 1.5 h. Filter with a 300 mesh filter cloth and collect the second extract. Combine the two extracts and place the extract in a vacuum concentration tank. Concentrate under reduced pressure at 55℃ and -0.08 MPa. The concentrated paste with a relative density of 1.08 is measured at 55℃ and is ready for use. (3) Preparation of fermentation substrate: Take the above concentrated paste, add purified water at a mass ratio of concentrated paste to purified water of 1:4.5, turn on the stirring until completely dissolved, and then adjust the pH of the system to 5.5 using citric acid-sodium citrate buffer solution; transfer the adjusted mixture into a fermenter, sterilize by high pressure steam at 121℃ and 0.1MPa for 20min, after sterilization, place the fermenter in a cold water bath to cool rapidly to 28℃ to obtain sterile fermentation substrate; (4) Anaerobic fermentation transformation: Bifidobacterium adolescentis was inoculated into the cooled fermentation substrate at an inoculum size of 1.2 × 10⁻⁶. 9 CFU / mL fermentation substrate; after inoculation, close the fermenter vent valve to maintain an anaerobic environment, adjust the fermentation temperature to 35℃, and ferment at a constant temperature for 20h. After fermentation, the immortelle fermentation broth is obtained. (5) Compound enzymatic hydrolysis purification: Add a compound enzyme to the above fermentation broth. The compound enzyme includes cellulase and pectinase with an enzyme activity ratio of 3:2. The amount of compound enzyme added is 0.8% of the total mass of the fermentation broth. Adjust the pH of the system to 5.0, raise the temperature to 50℃ and keep it at a constant temperature for 2.5h. After the enzymatic hydrolysis is completed, raise the temperature to 95℃ and keep it at a constant temperature for 15min to achieve enzyme inactivation. After cooling to room temperature, use a 0.45μm filter membrane for vacuum filtration and collect the filtrate to obtain the refined helichrysum fermentation broth. (6) Concentration, drying and shaping: The refined immortelle fermentation liquid is concentrated under reduced pressure, freeze-dried under vacuum, and pulverized to less than 120 mesh using a high-speed pulverizer to obtain immortelle extract for soothing and repairing.

[0021] This embodiment provides a composition comprising helichrysum extract for soothing and repairing, comprising the following components in parts by weight: 4-7 parts kava pepper root extract, 5-8 parts mung bean seed extract, 6-9 parts purslane extract, 3-6 parts gentian root extract, 7-10 parts helichrysum extract, 2-5 parts bifida lysate, 1-3 parts palmitoyl tripeptide-8, and 1-3 parts acetyl tetrapeptide-9.

[0022] The method for preparing the composition containing helichrysum extract for soothing and repair includes the following steps: mixing kava root extract, mung bean seed extract, purslane extract, gentian root extract, helichrysum extract, bifida ferment lysate, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, and acetyl tetrapeptide-9 evenly to obtain the composition containing helichrysum extract for soothing and repair.

[0023] Example 2 The difference between this embodiment and Example 1 is that this embodiment provides a composition containing helichrysum extract for soothing and repairing, comprising the following components in parts by weight: 4 parts kava pepper root extract, 8 parts mung bean seed extract, 6 parts purslane extract, 6 parts gentian root extract, 7 parts helichrysum extract, 5 parts bifida lysate, 1 part palmitoyl tripeptide-8, and 3 parts acetyl tetrapeptide-9.

[0024] Example 3 The difference between this embodiment and Example 1 is that this embodiment provides a composition containing helichrysum extract for soothing and repairing, comprising the following components in parts by weight: 7 parts kava pepper root extract, 5 parts mung bean seed extract, 9 parts purslane extract, 3 parts gentian root extract, 10 parts helichrysum extract, 2 parts bifida ferment lysate, 3 parts palmitoyl tripeptide-8, and 1 part acetyl tetrapeptide-9.

[0025] Comparative Example 1 The difference between this comparative example and Example 1 is that Bifidobacterium adolescentis is replaced with Lactobacillus rhamnosus.

[0026] Comparative Example 2 The difference between this comparative example and Example 1 is that the complex enzyme includes cellulase and pectinase with an enzyme activity ratio of 1:2.

[0027] Comparative Example 3 The difference between this comparative example and Example 1 is that the complex enzyme includes cellulase and pectinase with an enzyme activity ratio of 4:1.

[0028] Comparative Example 4 The difference between this comparative example and Example 1 is that the composition of the immortelle extract for soothing and repairing includes the following components in parts by weight: 2 parts kava pepper root extract, 10 parts mung bean seed extract, 4 parts purslane extract, 8 parts gentian root extract, 4 parts immortelle extract, 7 parts bifida lysate, 5 parts palmitoyl tripeptide-8, and 5 parts acetyl tetrapeptide-9.

[0029] Comparative Example 5 The difference between this comparative example and Example 1 is that the composition of the immortelle extract for soothing and repairing includes the following components in parts by weight: 9 parts kava pepper root extract, 1 part mung bean seed extract, 13 parts purslane extract, 1 part gentian root extract, 4 parts immortelle extract, 1 part bifida lysate, 5 parts palmitoyl tripeptide-8, and 4 parts acetyl tetrapeptide-9.

[0030] Performance testing (1) Test subjects: 60 SPF-grade Kunming mice were selected, half male and half female, weighing 20-22g. The breeding environment was 25±1℃, relative humidity 50±5%, circadian rhythm 12h / 12h, free food and water. After 3 days of acclimatization, they were used for the experiment.

[0031] (2) Construction of a sensitive skin model: A mouse sensitive skin model was constructed using a combination of skin barrier disruption and sensitization methods. 1. Hair removal on the back of mice: Apply 8% sodium sulfide solution to the skin on both sides of the spine on the back of mice (hair removal area 2cm×3cm), rinse with physiological saline after 3 minutes, remove residual hair, and allow to recover naturally for 24 hours; 2. Barrier damage: On days 2-4, once a day, use a sterile cotton swab to apply a mixture of acetone and ether (volume ratio 1:1) to the skin in the hair removal area for 10 seconds each time, and let it air dry naturally. 3. Sensitization induction: On day 5, 0.1 mL of 2,4-dinitrochlorobenzene (DNCB) sensitization solution (mass fraction 0.5%, solvent: anhydrous ethanol-petrolatum = 1:1) was applied to the skin of the hair-removed area. On day 12, the 0.1% DNCB stimulation solution was applied once more. After 24 hours of stimulation, symptoms such as erythema, edema, itching and scratching were observed on the skin of the mice, which indicated that the model was successfully established.

[0032] (3) Test indicators: Skin erythema index: measured using a skin colorimeter (Germany CK MPA580), selecting a Value (reflecting skin redness, a) The higher the value, the more severe the erythema, as the assessment criterion. Transdermal water loss (TEWL): Measured using a transdermal water loss tester (Germany CK MPA580), the lower the value, the better the skin barrier repair effect.

[0033] (4) Testing Procedure: Mice that successfully modeled the virus were randomly divided into 10 groups of 6 mice each, corresponding to Examples 1-3, Comparative Examples 1-5, and the blank control group (model group, coated with a base matrix without any active ingredients); a normal control group (not modeled, coated with a base matrix) was also set up. Each group of mice was coated with the corresponding sample evenly on the hair-removed area of ​​their backs twice a day, morning and evening. The Example / Comparative Example groups were coated with a base matrix containing 5% of the composition, while the blank control group and the normal control group were coated with pure base matrix. The amount of coating was 0.1 mL per mouse, and the coating was applied continuously for 28 days. Before administration (after successful modeling), the a value of the hair-removed area on the back of each group of mice was measured. The value was used as the baseline value for testing; the a value of each group of mice was repeatedly measured under the same environmental conditions at 2 hours after the first application (immediate soothing effect) and 28 days after the first application (long-lasting repair effect). Values ​​and TEWL values. The mean ± standard deviation of 6 mice in each group was taken as the final test results, and SPSS 26.0 software was used for statistical analysis.

[0034] The test results are shown in Table 1-2.

[0035] Table 1. Mouse a Value test results

[0036] Table 2 Results of TEWL value test in mice

[0037] As shown in Table 1, the soothing and repairing effects of the compositions in Examples 1-2 can be improved simultaneously.

[0038] Comparative Example 1 involved replacing different fermentation strains. *Bifidobacterium adolescentis* converted the flavonoids and polyphenol precursors in immortelle concentrate into small-molecule active ingredients through anaerobic metabolism. These ingredients easily penetrate the skin barrier and exert anti-inflammatory and soothing effects. However, *Lactobacillus rhamnosus*, with its poor metabolic pathway, was unable to effectively convert precursors and instead decomposed some active ingredients, resulting in a significant decrease in the soothing activity of the immortelle extract. The metabolites produced by *Bifidobacterium adolescentis* fermentation can synergistically release active ingredients through subsequent enzymatic hydrolysis. *Lactobacillus rhamnosus* fermentation produces a large amount of acidic byproducts, disrupting the pH stability of the enzymatic hydrolysis system, indirectly reducing enzymatic efficiency, and ultimately leading to insufficient extract activity. This results in ineffective relief of DNCB-induced skin inflammation, slow erythema resolution, and poor skin barrier repair.

[0039] In Comparative Examples 2 and 3, the enzyme activity ratio of the complex enzyme deviated from the optimal value, indicating that the active ingredients of the whole helichrysum herb could not be released to the maximum extent. The proportions of raw materials in the compositions of Comparative Examples 4 and 5 deviated significantly from the optimal range of the examples, resulting in a decrease in the synergistic effect of each component. Furthermore, they may disrupt the skin's microecological balance, further reducing the repair effect.

[0040] The above description represents the preferred embodiments of the present invention. It should be noted that those skilled in the art can make various improvements and modifications without departing from the principles of the present invention, and these improvements and modifications should also be considered within the scope of protection of the present invention.

Claims

1. Immortelle extract for soothing and repairing sensitive skin, characterized in that, The preparation method of the immortelle extract includes the following steps: (1) Raw material pretreatment: Select whole herb of immortelle without mold or insect infestation, wash, dry and crush to obtain immortelle powder; (2) Segmented constant temperature water extraction: Add water to the immortelle powder and perform segmented constant temperature water extraction to obtain a mixed extract. Concentrate under reduced pressure to obtain a concentrated paste. (3) Preparation of fermentation substrate; (4) Anaerobic fermentation: Inoculate Bifidobacterium adolescentis into the fermentation substrate. After inoculation, close the aeration valve of the fermenter to maintain an anaerobic environment and carry out fermentation. After fermentation, the fermentation liquid is obtained. (5) Compound enzymatic hydrolysis: Add compound enzyme to fermentation broth for enzymatic hydrolysis. After enzymatic hydrolysis, inactivate the enzyme, filter under reduced pressure, collect the filtrate, and obtain the enzymatic hydrolysate. (6) Concentration, drying and shaping: The enzymatic hydrolysate is concentrated under reduced pressure, freeze-dried under vacuum, and pulverized to obtain the immortelle extract for soothing and repairing.

2. The immortelle extract for soothing and repairing according to claim 1, characterized in that, The segmented constant temperature water extraction process includes the following steps: heating to 85-90℃ and extracting at a constant temperature for 1-2 hours; filtering after extraction and collecting the first extract; purifying water in the filter residue and continuing to heat to 85-90℃ and extracting at a constant temperature for 1-1.5 hours; filtering and collecting the second extract; combining the two extracts to obtain a mixed extract.

3. The immortelle extract for soothing and repairing according to claim 1, characterized in that, Bifidobacterium adolescentis, inoculation amount controlled at (1.0-1.2) × 10 9 CFU / mL fermentation substrate.

4. The immortelle extract for soothing and repairing according to claim 1, characterized in that, Fermentation conditions are as follows: fermentation temperature is controlled at 35-37℃, and constant temperature fermentation time is 20-25h.

5. The immortelle extract for soothing and repairing according to claim 1, characterized in that, Complex enzymes include cellulase and pectinase.

6. The immortelle extract for soothing and repairing according to claim 5, characterized in that, The complex enzyme includes cellulase and pectinase with an enzyme activity ratio of (3-4):(2-3).

7. The immortelle extract for soothing and repairing according to claim 1, characterized in that, The amount of compound enzyme added is 0.6-0.8% of the total mass of the fermentation broth.

8. The immortelle extract for soothing and repairing according to claim 1, characterized in that, The conditions for enzymatic hydrolysis are to heat to 50-55℃ and maintain the temperature for 2.5-3.0 hours.

9. A composition comprising the immortelle extract for soothing and repairing according to any one of claims 1-8, characterized in that, It includes the following components in parts by weight: 4-7 parts kava root extract, 5-8 parts mung bean seed extract, 6-9 parts purslane extract, 3-6 parts gentian root extract, 7-10 parts immortelle extract, 2-5 parts bifida lysate, 1-3 parts palmitoyl tripeptide-8, and 1-3 parts acetyl tetrapeptide-9.

10. The composition according to claim 9, characterized in that, The preparation method of the composition includes the following steps: mixing kava root extract, mung bean seed extract, purslane extract, gentian root extract, immortelle extract, bifida ferment lysate, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, and acetyl tetrapeptide-9 evenly to obtain a composition containing immortelle extract for soothing and repairing.

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