Production process of double-texture knitted shirt fabric

Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of textile processing, and particularly relates to a production process of a double-texture knitted shirt fabric. The fabric is formed by weaving jacquard weave, and the minimum pattern circulation unit of the fabric is composed of 16 transverse rows in the longitudinal direction and is composed of 4 coil longitudinal rows in the transverse direction. The production process comprises the following working procedures of spinning, weaving, singeing, washing, liquid ammonia treatment, dyeing, tentering and preshrinking. By means of unique design, rich and diversified visual texture feeling is created, the single-quality feeling and the surface stereoscopic impression are enhanced, the fabric has the stiff and smooth shape maintaining performance of woven fabric and the comfort and elasticity of knitted fabric, the double forms of outer-layer rhombic lattice grain large texture and inner-layer square lattice grain micro texture are formed, and the fabric is more attractive in appearance and more attractive in appearance. The skin is kept dry while the skin-friendly experience is provided; meanwhile, the fabric is natural and easy to care by means of a special weave structure and a specific production process, and the production process is high in stability and can meet the rapid production requirements of large goods and multiple varieties.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention belongs to the field of textile processing technology, specifically relating to the production process of double-textured knitted shirt fabric. Background Technology

[0002] In the textile processing industry, knitted shirt fabrics are widely used in everyday wear due to their combination of comfort and convenience. However, most knitted shirt fabrics on the market are still based on two-dimensional flat patterns, with a relatively tight weave structure and a flat surface, lacking visual three-dimensionality and rich tactile texture, making it difficult to meet consumers' demands for diverse fashion and enhanced sensory experiences.

[0003] While some existing knitted shirt fabrics have attempted optimization through jacquard and other processes, they still face numerous limitations. For example, Chinese patent CN120211015A discloses a dimensionally stable high-count double-sided checkered knitted shirt fabric and its manufacturing process. This fabric features a jacquard checkered pattern and a smooth surface. However, its jacquard checkered pattern remains two-dimensional, lacking novelty and spatial appeal. Chinese patent CN114059221A discloses a weft-knitted shirt fabric and its manufacturing process, using low-temperature spandex, cotton yarn, and polyester as raw materials, woven with a small jacquard structure and finished. This fabric's pattern is two-dimensional and planar, and the weaving process involves weaving with spandex interlining, resulting in low weaving efficiency and a high risk of defects in the greige fabric, making it unsuitable for multi-variety, large-volume production requirements. Chinese patent CN114635223A discloses a high-count elastic jacquard knitted shirt fabric and its manufacturing process, employing a cotton / spandex core-spun spinning method, with a single-sided jacquard fabric structure. However, this fabric has high requirements for spinning technology and is prone to weaving horizontal lines during the weaving process, failing to meet customers' demands for quick response and fashion. Chinese patent CN116949652A discloses a knitted microbubble shirt fabric and its production process, using cotton and elastic filaments as raw materials, woven in a jacquard pattern, resulting in a slight bubble effect. However, this production process has high requirements for yarn raw materials and manufacturing technology, the bubble effect is difficult to predict, and problems such as uneven bubble formation or failure to bubble are prone to occur.

[0004] Traditional knitted shirt fabrics often struggle to combine the crispness and shape retention of woven fabrics with the comfort and elasticity of knitted fabrics. Furthermore, some fabrics require frequent ironing, compromising ease of use. In addition, as consumer demands for clothing functionality continue to rise, breathability, skin-friendliness, and dimensional stability have become key consumer concerns. Most existing knitted shirt fabrics still have room for improvement in these aspects, failing to fully meet market demands. Therefore, developing a knitted shirt fabric and its production process that combines a three-dimensional texture, excellent overall performance, and stable production has become a pressing technical challenge for the industry. Summary of the Invention

[0005] To address the shortcomings of existing technologies, the present invention aims to provide a production process for a dual-texture knitted shirt fabric. Through a unique design, it creates a rich and diverse visual texture, enhancing both the quality and three-dimensionality of the fabric, combining the crispness and shape retention of woven fabrics with the comfort and elasticity of knitted fabrics. It also forms a dual structure: an outer layer with a large diamond-patterned texture and an inner layer with a small square-patterned texture. The outer layer breaks away from the traditional flat aesthetic of knitted fabrics, with its textured surface enhancing breathability. The inner layer, with its point-contact design, provides a skin-friendly experience while keeping the skin dry. Furthermore, the fabric's special structure combined with a specific production process makes it naturally easy to care for, and the production process is highly stable, capable of meeting the demands of large-volume, multi-variety rapid production.

[0006] The technical solution adopted in this invention is as follows: The production process of the aforementioned double-textured knitted shirt fabric involves using a jacquard weave, where the smallest pattern repeat unit consists of 16 horizontal rows in the longitudinal direction and 4 vertical rows in the transverse direction. The weaving structure of each vertical row within a complete pattern repeat is as follows: The first row of coils: Row 1 is woven into a loop, repeating twice; Row 3 is woven into a coil, repeating twice; Row 5 is woven into a float, repeating four times; Row 9 is woven into a loop, repeating twice; Row 11 is woven into a coil, repeating twice; Row 13 is woven into a float, repeating four times. The second coil is as follows: Row 1 is woven into a loop, repeating twice; Row 3 is woven into a float, repeating four times; Row 7 is woven into a loop, repeating twice; Row 9 is woven into a float, repeating twice; Row 11 is woven into a loop, repeating twice; Row 13 is woven into a loop, repeating twice; Row 15 is woven into a float, repeating twice. The third coil is in the following rows: Row 1 is a floating line, repeated four times; Row 5 is a loop, repeated twice; Row 7 is a tucked loop, repeated twice; Row 9 is a floating line, repeated four times; Row 13 is a loop, repeated twice; Row 15 is a tucked loop, repeated twice. The fourth row of coils: Row 1 is a floating line, repeated twice; Row 3 is a loop, repeated twice; Row 5 is a tucked loop, repeated twice; Row 7 is a floating line, repeated twice; Row 9 is a tucked loop, repeated twice; Row 11 is a floating line, repeated four times; Row 15 is a loop, repeated twice. The production process includes the following steps: spinning → weaving → singeing → washing → liquid ammonia → dyeing → stretching → pre-shrinking.

[0007] In the aforementioned spinning process, the yarn used is 100% long-staple cotton, with a yarn count of 40-50 English single yarn or 80 / 2-100 / 2 English double yarn, and the spinning method is one of ring spinning, compact spinning, or compact Sirospinning.

[0008] In the aforementioned weaving process, a high-gauge three-position fine-gauge circular knitting machine is used (three-position knitting refers to knitting that can form loops, tucks, and floats in the same looping system), with a machine size of 28G~36G, a cylinder diameter of 26 inches~34 inches, and a knitting length of 15cm~20cm per hundred loops.

[0009] In the singeing process, the machine speed is 60m / min to 100m / min, the singeing method is cutting and burning, and the singeing flame intensity is 12mbar to 18mbar.

[0010] In the aforementioned water washing process, the vehicle speed is 40m / min~50m / min, the temperature of the first and second water washing tanks is 25℃~35℃, the temperature of the third and fourth water washing tanks is 75℃~85℃, and the temperature of the fifth water washing tank is 55℃~75℃.

[0011] In the liquid ammonia process, the vehicle speed is 25m / min to 35m / min.

[0012] In the dyeing process, the dyeing temperature is 55℃~65℃, the dyeing time is 30min~50min, reactive dyes are used, and the dye solution contains 4g / L~5g / L soda ash, 7g / L~8g / L hydrogen peroxide, 1g / L~3g / L leveling agent, and 8g / L~12g / L sodium sulfate.

[0013] In the stretching process, wrinkle-free finishing and softening finishing are carried out simultaneously, with a machine speed of 20m / min to 25m / min, an overfeed of 25% to 30%, a pressure of 25bar to 35bar, and a drying oven temperature of 155℃ to 165℃.

[0014] In the stretching process, the finishing solution contains the following components: neutralizing acid 1g / L~2g / L, hydrophilic silicone softener 10g / L~30g / L, penetrant 1.5g / L~2.5g / L, wrinkle-free resin 25g / L~35g / L, catalyst 8g / L~10g / L, fiber protectant 9g / L~11g / L, formaldehyde scavenger 25g / L~35g / L, and the balance is water.

[0015] In the pre-shrinking process, the pre-shrinking speed is 25m / min to 35m / min, and the temperature of the pre-shrinking blanket is 95℃ to 105℃.

[0016] Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows: (1) The double texture knitted shirt fabric of the present invention, through a unique jacquard structure design, forms a double texture form with an outer layer of diamond grid large texture and an inner layer of square grid micro texture, breaking the flat aesthetic of traditional knitted fabrics, giving the fabric a diversified visual texture and three-dimensional spatial sense, and bringing consumers a more direct and vivid visual and tactile impact, satisfying the needs of fashion consumption. (2) The double texture knitted shirt fabric of the present invention has an outer layer of diamond pattern with raised texture that improves the breathability of the fabric, and an inner layer of square pattern with a point-touch design that ensures a skin-friendly experience while effectively keeping the skin dry. The fabric has the crispness and shape retention of woven fabric and the comfort and elasticity of knitted fabric, providing a good wearing experience. It is also natural and easy to care for, reducing the cost of daily care. (3) The production process of the double texture knitted shirt fabric described in this invention, through precise control of liquid ammonia treatment, stretching and finishing processes, and optimization of special structure, results in low dimensional change rate of the fabric after washing, and the shrinkage rate of both the warp and weft directions can be controlled within a small range. The appearance remains good after washing and it is not easy to twist or deform. At the same time, the fabric has a pilling grade of 4, excellent bursting strength, strong durability, and can maintain a good service condition for a long time. (4) The production process of the double texture knitted shirt fabric described in this invention uses 100% long-staple cotton as raw material and is woven with a high-gauge three-position fine-gauge circular knitting machine. The parameters of each process are scientifically and reasonably designed, the process is highly controllable, and the risk of defects in the greige fabric is effectively reduced. The process is suitable for the rapid production requirements of multiple varieties and large-volume products, with high production efficiency. It can quickly respond to the market demand for fashionable knitted shirt fabrics and has good prospects for industrial application. Attached Figure Description

[0017] Figure 1 This is a knitting diagram of the double-textured knitted shirt fabric described in this invention; Figure 2 This is a schematic diagram of the outer diamond-patterned texture of the double-textured knitted shirt fabric described in this invention. Figure 3 This is a schematic diagram of the inner square grid microtexture of the double-textured knitted shirt fabric described in this invention. Figure 4 A weave diagram of the fabric described in the comparative example; Figure 5 This is a schematic diagram of the outer twill texture of the fabric described in the comparative example; Figure 6 This is a schematic diagram of the inner twill texture of the fabric described in the comparative example. Detailed Implementation

[0018] The present invention will be further described below with reference to the embodiments, but these embodiments do not limit the implementation of the present invention.

[0019] Unless otherwise specified, the raw materials used in the examples and comparative examples are all commercially available materials, and the process methods used in the examples and comparative examples are all conventional methods in the art.

[0020] The following is a description of some of the raw materials used in the examples and comparative examples: Raytexil LA-R (leveling agent), Raytexil PH-X (neutralizing acid), Raysoft SEH-02 (hydrophilic silicone softener), Rayclean WA-M (penetrating agent), Raycare CR-PT (iron-free resin), Raycare CT-C (catalyst), Raycare SF-P (fiber protectant), and Raycare FDS (formaldehyde scavenger) were all purchased from Zibo Lurui Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.

[0021] Example 1 The production process of the aforementioned double-textured knitted shirt fabric involves using a jacquard weave, where the smallest pattern repeat unit consists of 16 horizontal rows in the longitudinal direction and 4 vertical rows in the transverse direction. The weaving structure of each vertical row within a complete pattern repeat is as follows: The first row of coils: Row 1 is woven into a loop, repeating twice; Row 3 is woven into a coil, repeating twice; Row 5 is woven into a float, repeating four times; Row 9 is woven into a loop, repeating twice; Row 11 is woven into a coil, repeating twice; Row 13 is woven into a float, repeating four times. The second coil is as follows: Row 1 is woven into a loop, repeating twice; Row 3 is woven into a float, repeating four times; Row 7 is woven into a loop, repeating twice; Row 9 is woven into a float, repeating twice; Row 11 is woven into a loop, repeating twice; Row 13 is woven into a loop, repeating twice; Row 15 is woven into a float, repeating twice. The third coil is in the following rows: Row 1 is a floating line, repeated four times; Row 5 is a loop, repeated twice; Row 7 is a tucked loop, repeated twice; Row 9 is a floating line, repeated four times; Row 13 is a loop, repeated twice; Row 15 is a tucked loop, repeated twice. The fourth row of coils: Row 1 is a floating line, repeated twice; Row 3 is a loop, repeated twice; Row 5 is a tucked loop, repeated twice; Row 7 is a floating line, repeated twice; Row 9 is a tucked loop, repeated twice; Row 11 is a floating line, repeated four times; Row 15 is a loop, repeated twice. The production process includes the following steps: spinning → weaving → singeing → washing → liquid ammonia → dyeing → stretching → pre-shrinking.

[0022] In the aforementioned spinning process, the yarn used is 100% long-staple cotton, the yarn count is 40 English count single yarn, and the spinning method is ring spinning.

[0023] In the aforementioned weaving process, a high-gauge, three-position, fine-gauge circular knitting machine is used, with a gauge of 28G, a bobbin diameter of 26 inches, a yarn length of 20cm per 100 loops, and a raw yarn weight of 199g / m². 2 The width of the blank is 188cm.

[0024] In the singeing process, the machine speed is 100m / min, the singeing method is cutting and burning, and the singeing flame intensity is 18mbar.

[0025] In the aforementioned water washing process, the vehicle speed is 50m / min, the temperature of the first and second water washing tanks is 35℃, the temperature of the third and fourth water washing tanks is 85℃, and the temperature of the fifth water washing tank is 75℃.

[0026] In the liquid ammonia process, the vehicle speed is 35 m / min.

[0027] In the dyeing process, the dyeing temperature is 65℃, the dyeing time is 50min, reactive dyes are used, and the dye solution contains 5g / L soda ash, 8g / L hydrogen peroxide, 3g / L leveling agent, and 12g / L sodium sulfate.

[0028] In the stretching process, wrinkle-free finishing and softening finishing are carried out simultaneously, with a machine speed of 25m / min, an overfeed of 30%, a pressure of 35bar, and a drying oven temperature of 165℃.

[0029] In the stretching process, the finishing solution contains the following components: 2 g / L neutralizing acid, 30 g / L hydrophilic silicone softener, 2.5 g / L penetrant, 35 g / L wrinkle-free resin, 10 g / L catalyst, 11 g / L fiber protectant, 35 g / L formaldehyde scavenger, and the balance is water.

[0030] In the pre-shrinking process, the pre-shrinking speed is 35m / min and the temperature of the pre-shrinking blanket is 105℃.

[0031] Figures 1-3 These are, respectively, the knitting diagram of the double-textured knitted shirt fabric described in the embodiment, a schematic diagram of the outer layer's large diamond-pattern texture, and a schematic diagram of the inner layer's micro-textured square-pattern texture. Figure 1 The unique jacquard weave structure uses loops and tucks to break up excessively long floats, which facilitates yarn feeding into the needles and reduces float length, preventing snagging and breakage. The loops and tucks are arranged in a zigzag pattern longitudinally, and the broken floats form a diamond-shaped grid pattern on the reverse side of the finished surface. Because the tucks are staggered, the unclosed overhangs try to straighten, making the loops larger and rounder, especially noticeable at the inflection points of the zigzag arrangement, creating a square mesh effect on the front side of the finished surface. The final result is... Figure 2 The outer diamond-patterned texture shown is similar to... Figure 3The dual texture of the inner square grid pattern shown gives the fabric a diverse visual texture and a sense of three-dimensional space.

[0032] Example 2 The production process of the aforementioned double-textured knitted shirt fabric involves using a jacquard weave, where the smallest pattern repeat unit consists of 16 horizontal rows in the longitudinal direction and 4 vertical rows in the transverse direction. The weaving structure of each vertical row within a complete pattern repeat is as follows: The first row of coils: Row 1 is woven into a loop, repeating twice; Row 3 is woven into a coil, repeating twice; Row 5 is woven into a float, repeating four times; Row 9 is woven into a loop, repeating twice; Row 11 is woven into a coil, repeating twice; Row 13 is woven into a float, repeating four times. The second coil is as follows: Row 1 is woven into a loop, repeating twice; Row 3 is woven into a float, repeating four times; Row 7 is woven into a loop, repeating twice; Row 9 is woven into a float, repeating twice; Row 11 is woven into a loop, repeating twice; Row 13 is woven into a loop, repeating twice; Row 15 is woven into a float, repeating twice. The third coil is in the following rows: Row 1 is a floating line, repeated four times; Row 5 is a loop, repeated twice; Row 7 is a tucked loop, repeated twice; Row 9 is a floating line, repeated four times; Row 13 is a loop, repeated twice; Row 15 is a tucked loop, repeated twice. The fourth row of coils: Row 1 is a floating line, repeated twice; Row 3 is a loop, repeated twice; Row 5 is a tucked loop, repeated twice; Row 7 is a floating line, repeated twice; Row 9 is a tucked loop, repeated twice; Row 11 is a floating line, repeated four times; Row 15 is a loop, repeated twice. The production process includes the following steps: spinning → weaving → singeing → washing → liquid ammonia → dyeing → stretching → pre-shrinking.

[0033] In the aforementioned spinning process, the yarn used is 100% long-staple cotton, the yarn count is 50 English count single yarn, and the spinning method is compact spinning.

[0034] In the aforementioned weaving process, a high-gauge, three-position, fine-gauge circular knitting machine (gauge 32G, bobbin diameter 34 inches) is used. The yarn length per 100 loops is 17cm, and the raw yarn weight is 158g / m². 2 The width of the blank is 236cm.

[0035] In the singeing process, the machine speed is 80 m / min, the singeing method is cutting and burning, and the singeing flame intensity is 15 mbar.

[0036] In the aforementioned water washing process, the vehicle speed is 45 m / min, the temperature of the first and second water washing tanks is 30℃, the temperature of the third and fourth water washing tanks is 80℃, and the temperature of the fifth water washing tank is 65℃.

[0037] In the liquid ammonia process, the vehicle speed is 30 m / min.

[0038] In the dyeing process, the dyeing temperature is 60℃, the dyeing time is 40min, reactive dyes are used, and the dye solution contains 4.5g / L soda ash, 7.5g / L hydrogen peroxide, 2g / L leveling agent, and 10g / L sodium sulfate.

[0039] In the stretching process, wrinkle-free finishing and softening finishing are carried out simultaneously, with a machine speed of 22m / min, an overfeed of 27%, a pressure of 30bar, and a drying oven temperature of 160℃.

[0040] In the stretching process, the finishing solution contains the following components: 1.5 g / L neutralizing acid, 20 g / L hydrophilic silicone softener, 2 g / L penetrant, 30 g / L wrinkle-free resin, 9 g / L catalyst, 10 g / L fiber protectant, 30 g / L formaldehyde scavenger, and the balance is water.

[0041] In the pre-shrinking process, the pre-shrinking speed is 30m / min and the temperature of the pre-shrinking blanket is 100℃.

[0042] Example 3 The production process of the aforementioned double-textured knitted shirt fabric involves using a jacquard weave, where the smallest pattern repeat unit consists of 16 horizontal rows in the longitudinal direction and 4 vertical rows in the transverse direction. The weaving structure of each vertical row within a complete pattern repeat is as follows: The first row of coils: Row 1 is woven into a loop, repeating twice; Row 3 is woven into a coil, repeating twice; Row 5 is woven into a float, repeating four times; Row 9 is woven into a loop, repeating twice; Row 11 is woven into a coil, repeating twice; Row 13 is woven into a float, repeating four times. The second coil is as follows: Row 1 is woven into a loop, repeating twice; Row 3 is woven into a float, repeating four times; Row 7 is woven into a loop, repeating twice; Row 9 is woven into a float, repeating twice; Row 11 is woven into a loop, repeating twice; Row 13 is woven into a loop, repeating twice; Row 15 is woven into a float, repeating twice. The third coil is in the following rows: Row 1 is a floating line, repeated four times; Row 5 is a loop, repeated twice; Row 7 is a tucked loop, repeated twice; Row 9 is a floating line, repeated four times; Row 13 is a loop, repeated twice; Row 15 is a tucked loop, repeated twice. The fourth row of coils: Row 1 is a floating line, repeated twice; Row 3 is a loop, repeated twice; Row 5 is a tucked loop, repeated twice; Row 7 is a floating line, repeated twice; Row 9 is a tucked loop, repeated twice; Row 11 is a floating line, repeated four times; Row 15 is a loop, repeated twice. The production process includes the following steps: spinning → weaving → singeing → washing → liquid ammonia → dyeing → stretching → pre-shrinking.

[0043] In the aforementioned spinning process, the yarn used is 100% long-staple cotton, the yarn count is 100 / 2 English count double-ply yarn, and the spinning method is compact Sirospun.

[0044] In the aforementioned weaving process, a high-gauge, three-position, fine-gauge circular knitting machine is used, with a gauge of 36G, a bobbin diameter of 30 inches, a yarn length of 15cm per 100 loops, and a raw yarn weight of 165g / m². 2 The width of the blank is 225cm.

[0045] In the singeing process, the machine speed is 60m / min, the singeing method is cutting and burning, and the singeing flame intensity is 12mbar.

[0046] In the aforementioned water washing process, the vehicle speed is 40m / min, the temperature of the first and second water washing tanks is 25℃, the temperature of the third and fourth water washing tanks is 75℃, and the temperature of the fifth water washing tank is 55℃.

[0047] In the liquid ammonia process, the vehicle speed is 25 m / min.

[0048] In the dyeing process, the dyeing temperature is 55℃, the dyeing time is 30 minutes, reactive dyes are used, and the dye solution contains 4g / L soda ash, 7g / L hydrogen peroxide, 1g / L leveling agent, and 8g / L sodium sulfate.

[0049] In the stretching process, wrinkle-free finishing and softening finishing are carried out simultaneously, with a machine speed of 20m / min, an overfeed of 25%, a pressure of 25bar, and a drying oven temperature of 155℃.

[0050] In the stretching process, the finishing solution contains the following components: 1 g / L neutralizing acid, 10 g / L hydrophilic silicone softener, 1.5 g / L penetrant, 25 g / L wrinkle-free resin, 8 g / L catalyst, 9 g / L fiber protectant, 25 g / L formaldehyde scavenger, and the balance is water.

[0051] In the pre-shrinking process, the pre-shrinking speed is 25m / min and the temperature of the pre-shrinking blanket is 95℃.

[0052] Comparative Example 1 The fabric is manufactured using a jacquard weave, with its smallest pattern repeat unit consisting of 8 horizontal rows in the longitudinal direction and 4 longitudinal rows in the transverse direction. The weave structure of each longitudinal row within a complete pattern repeat is as follows: The first coil is in the vertical direction: the first row is woven into a loop, repeated twice; the third row is woven into a coil, repeated twice; the fifth row is woven into a float, repeated four times. The second coil is in the following rows: the first row is woven into a loop, repeated twice; the third row is woven into a float, repeated four times; and the seventh row is woven into a loop, repeated twice. The third coil is in the following rows: Row 1 is a floating thread, repeated four times; Row 5 is a loop, repeated twice; Row 7 is a tufted loop, repeated twice. The fourth coil is as follows: Row 1 is a floating line, repeated twice; Row 3 is a loop, repeated twice; Row 5 is a tucked loop, repeated twice; Row 7 is a floating line, repeated twice. The production process described is the same as in Example 1.

[0053] Figures 4-6 The diagrams shown are the weave pattern, outer twill texture diagram, and inner twill texture diagram of the fabric described in the comparative example. Figure 4 The structure design of conventional heavy twill fabrics utilizes loops and tucks to break up excessively long floats, facilitating yarn feeding to the needles and reducing float length, preventing snagging and yarn breakage. The loops and tucks are arranged in a twill pattern, and the broken floats form a twill grid on the reverse side of the fabric. Because the tucks are distributed in a twill pattern, the unclosed loops try to straighten, making the loops larger and rounder, thus creating a twill grid effect on the reverse side of the fabric. This ultimately results in… Figure 5 The outer layer of diagonal texture shown is similar to Figure 6 The single texture of the inner twill weave shown results in a weak sense of visual and tactile layering in the fabric.

[0054] The fabrics obtained in the examples and comparative examples were subjected to performance tests, and the test methods are as follows: Gram weight: GB / T 4669-2008 Textiles - Determination of mass per unit length and mass per unit area of ​​woven fabrics; Dimensional change rate after washing: Marking refers to GB / T 8628-2013 Preparation, marking and measurement of fabric samples and garments in tests for determination of dimensional change of textiles; washing refers to GB / T 8629-2017 Household washing and drying procedures for textile testing; measurement refers to GB / T 8630-2013 Determination of dimensional change of textiles after washing and drying. Post-wash appearance: AATCC 124-2018t Test method for the smooth appearance of fabrics after household washing; Twisting after washing: GB / T 23319.2-2009 Determination of skewness of textiles after washing; Pilling: GB / T 4802.1-2008 Textiles - Determination of pilling properties of fabrics - Method E; Bursting strength: GB / T 19976-2005 Determination of bursting strength of textiles (steel ball method); Fabric density: ASTM D8007-24 Standard test method for weft count and course count of weft-knitted fabrics; The test results are shown in Table 1: Table 1 Performance Test Results

[0055] As shown in Table 1, Example 1 and the comparative example differ in terms of dimensional change rate after washing, post-wash appearance, post-wash twist, and bursting strength, with Example 1 exhibiting superior performance. The jacquard weave used in Example 1, with its zigzag arrangement of loops and tucks, forms a diamond pattern on the reverse side of the fabric, creating a geometric support on the fabric surface. This better balances external forces, enhancing the fabric's strength and stability. In contrast, the jacquard weave used in the comparative example features a twill arrangement of loops and tucks, resulting in uneven stress on the fabric loops and a certain degree of skew. This makes it easier for external forces to cause the loops to shift between different parts, leading to fabric skewing. Therefore, the weave used in Example 1 improves the fabric's dimensional stability and strength, making it less prone to deformation and improving its dimensional change rate after washing, post-wash appearance, post-wash twist, and bursting strength.

[0056] The fabric produced by this invention has good dimensional stability and wrinkle-free properties, and the production process is stable, which can meet the market requirements for knitted shirts. The outer layer has a large diamond pattern texture, which is combined with the inner layer has a small square pattern texture. It is skin-friendly and breathable, and has a multi-dimensional texture effect, giving consumers a more direct and three-dimensional visual or tactile experience. Knitted shirts made from the fabric produced by this invention are comfortable and stylish, and can be easily switched between formal occasions and leisure time, with excellent application prospects of multiple uses.

Claims

1. A manufacturing process for a double-textured knitted shirt fabric, characterized in that, The fabric is woven using a jacquard weave, with its smallest pattern repeat unit consisting of 16 rows in the longitudinal direction and 4 wales in the transverse direction. The weave structure of each wale within a complete pattern repeat is as follows: The first row of coils: Row 1 is woven into a loop, repeating twice; Row 3 is woven into a coil, repeating twice; Row 5 is woven into a float, repeating four times; Row 9 is woven into a loop, repeating twice; Row 11 is woven into a coil, repeating twice; Row 13 is woven into a float, repeating four times. The second coil is as follows: Row 1 is woven into a loop, repeating twice; Row 3 is woven into a float, repeating four times; Row 7 is woven into a loop, repeating twice; Row 9 is woven into a float, repeating twice; Row 11 is woven into a loop, repeating twice; Row 13 is woven into a loop, repeating twice; Row 15 is woven into a float, repeating twice. The third coil is in the following rows: Row 1 is a floating line, repeated four times; Row 5 is a loop, repeated twice; Row 7 is a tucked loop, repeated twice; Row 9 is a floating line, repeated four times; Row 13 is a loop, repeated twice; Row 15 is a tucked loop, repeated twice. The fourth row of coils: Row 1 is a floating line, repeated twice; Row 3 is a loop, repeated twice; Row 5 is a tucked loop, repeated twice; Row 7 is a floating line, repeated twice; Row 9 is a tucked loop, repeated twice; Row 11 is a floating line, repeated four times; Row 15 is a loop, repeated twice. The production process includes the following steps: spinning → weaving → singeing → washing → liquid ammonia → dyeing → stretching → pre-shrinking.

2. The production process of the double-textured knitted shirt fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, In the aforementioned spinning process, the yarn used is 100% long-staple cotton, with a yarn count of 40-50 English single yarn or 80 / 2-100 / 2 English double yarn, and the spinning method is one of ring spinning, compact spinning, or compact Sirospinning.

3. The production process of the double-textured knitted shirt fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, In the aforementioned weaving process, a high-gauge, three-position fine-gauge circular knitting machine is used, with a machine size of 28G~36G, a cylinder diameter of 26 inches~34 inches, and a weaving length of 15cm~20cm per hundred loops.

4. The production process of the double-textured knitted shirt fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, In the singeing process, the machine speed is 60m / min to 100m / min, the singeing method is cutting and burning, and the singeing flame intensity is 12mbar to 18mbar.

5. The production process of the double-textured knitted shirt fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, In the aforementioned water washing process, the vehicle speed is 40m / min~50m / min, the temperature of the first and second water washing tanks is 25℃~35℃, the temperature of the third and fourth water washing tanks is 75℃~85℃, and the temperature of the fifth water washing tank is 55℃~75℃.

6. The production process of the double-textured knitted shirt fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, In the liquid ammonia process, the vehicle speed is 25m / min to 35m / min.

7. The production process of the double-textured knitted shirt fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, In the dyeing process, the dyeing temperature is 55℃~65℃, the dyeing time is 30min~50min, reactive dyes are used, and the dye solution contains 4g / L~5g / L soda ash, 7g / L~8g / L hydrogen peroxide, 1g / L~3g / L leveling agent, and 8g / L~12g / L sodium sulfate.

8. The production process of the double-textured knitted shirt fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, In the stretching process, wrinkle-free finishing and softening finishing are carried out simultaneously, with a machine speed of 20m / min to 25m / min, an overfeed of 25% to 30%, a pressure of 25bar to 35bar, and a drying oven temperature of 155℃ to 165℃.

9. The production process of the double-textured knitted shirt fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, In the stretching process, the finishing solution contains the following components: neutralizing acid 1g / L~2g / L, hydrophilic silicone softener 10g / L~30g / L, penetrant 1.5g / L~2.5g / L, wrinkle-free resin 25g / L~35g / L, catalyst 8g / L~10g / L, fiber protectant 9g / L~11g / L, formaldehyde scavenger 25g / L~35g / L, and the balance is water.

10. The production process of the double-textured knitted shirt fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that, In the pre-shrinking process, the pre-shrinking speed is 25m / min to 35m / min, and the temperature of the pre-shrinking blanket is 95℃ to 105℃.

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