Weaving process of diacetic acid and bamboo blended dobby shirt fabric

By using a small jacquard weaving process of diacetate/bamboo (50/50) blend, combined with specific fabric structure and yarn density, a small jacquard shirt fabric of diacetate and bamboo blend that combines stiffness and softness has been prepared. This solves the problem of balancing stiffness and softness in existing technologies and realizes the production of highly comfortable and environmentally friendly fabrics.

CN121896771APending Publication Date: 2026-04-21JIHUA 3542 TEXTILE CO LTD
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Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Applications(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
JIHUA 3542 TEXTILE CO LTD
Filing Date
2024-10-18
Publication Date
2026-04-21

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing bamboo fiber blended shirt fabrics struggle to balance stiffness and softness, and diacetate fiber fabrics are rarely used in the market, lacking lightweight blended jacquard fabrics that combine both stiffness and softness.

Method used

Using a diacetate/bamboo (50/50) blend jacquard weaving process, through specific fabric structure and yarn density design, combined with warping, sizing, heddle threading, reed threading and weaving processes, a diacetate/bamboo blend jacquard shirt fabric with a six-page structure is prepared, ensuring that the fabric has both good tensile strength and high comfort.

Benefits of technology

It achieves a balance between softness and comfort and stiffness in fabric, featuring coolness and breathability, softness and comfort, elegant luster, high color fastness, and good abrasion resistance, meeting consumers' demand for high-quality lightweight fabrics and providing an environmentally friendly and sustainable textile solution.

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Abstract

The invention discloses a weaving process of diacetate and nandina blended dobby shirt fabric, and relates to the technical field of textile production, and the shirt fabric is diacetate / nandina (50 / 50) 11.8 * diacetate / nandina (50 / 50) 11.8 472 / 393. 5170cm dobby fabric; the pattern of the fabric is ground weave six-page weaving, the fabric weave adopts a two-up two-down, one-up two-down, one-up one-down and two-up one-down combined structure, the weave structures are matched with one another, the fabric circulates 36 pieces in the warp direction and the weft direction, diacetate / bamboo (50 / 50) 11.8 tex yarn is selected as the warp yarn and the weft yarn of the fabric and is compact spinning, the warp density is 472 pieces / 10 cm, the weft density is 393.5 pieces / 10 cm, and the weaving process comprises the steps of warping, slashing, drafting, denting and weaving. Through texture change, the shirt fabric has tensile strength performance, enables a human body to be high in comfort level and has the advantages of being fresh, breathable, soft and comfortable, and the function and the shape of the shirt fabric are favored by consumers.
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Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of textile production technology, specifically a weaving process for a diacetate and bamboo blend jacquard shirt fabric. Background Technology

[0002] Currently, in the shirt and clothing fabric market, functional bamboo fiber products are highly popular among consumers due to their excellent comfort and antibacterial properties. Most existing clothing fabrics containing bamboo fiber are blends with cotton or polyester fibers, and the fabric weave is primarily twill or plain weave. Plain weave fabrics are too stiff due to their excellent rigidity, but lack a comfortable fit, while twill fabrics are too soft and lack abrasion resistance; each has its advantages and disadvantages. Currently, diacetate fiber fabrics are rarely used in the market, therefore, it is necessary to develop a lightweight diacetate / bamboo blend jacquard fabric that balances both stiffness and softness. Summary of the Invention

[0003] To overcome the shortcomings of the existing technology, the purpose of this invention is to provide a weaving process for diacetate and bamboo blend jacquard shirt fabric, which makes the product structure full, beautiful and bright, with a strong three-dimensional effect, and enriches the variety of shirt fabrics.

[0004] To achieve the above-mentioned objectives, this invention provides a weaving process for a diacetate and bamboo blend jacquard shirt fabric, wherein the specifications of the diacetate and bamboo blend jacquard shirt fabric are: diacetate / bamboo (50 / 50) 11.8 × diacetate / bamboo (50 / 50) 11.8 472 / 393.5 170cm jacquard fabric; The fabric pattern is a six-page ground weave, and the fabric structure adopts a combination structure of two up and two down, one up and two down, one up and one down, and two up and one down. The six-page structure is matched with each other. The warp repeat of the fabric is 36, and the weft repeat is also 36. The fabric uses diacetate / bamboo (50 / 50) 11.8tex yarn for both warp and weft, and both are tightly spun. The warp density is 472 threads / 10cm, the weft density is 393.5 threads / 10cm, and the fabric width is 170cm. The weaving process of the diacetate and bamboo blend jacquard shirt fabric includes the following steps: warping process → sizing process → heddle threading and reed threading process → weaving process; (a) Warping process: 674 warping heads, 12 warp beams, and a total of 8088 warping heads; a large V-shaped micro-tension device warping machine is selected to keep the warping yarns of the same size, and the yarn is replaced at the same time to ensure consistent unwinding tension; the machine speed is controlled within 500 r / min. (b) Sizing process: Sizing agent selection: 10 kg polyvinyl alcohol, 50 kg textile starch, 25 kg new environmentally friendly sizing agent, 25 kg grafted starch, 20 kg modified starch; Sizing machine selection: Tsudakoma HS-40 sizing machine, double dip double pressure sizing; When sizing is running normally, the pressure setting requirements are: 8.5 KN to 9.5 KN at high speed, 7.5 KN at low speed, and 6.5 KN when stopped; The normal running speed is controlled within 50 m / min, and the running speed is uniform. (c) Reed threading process: Reed specifications: 153.5 teeth / 10cm, 3 yarns in each tooth, the ground weave threading method is: 4.5.6+1.2.5+6.3.4+1.5.2+3.6.5+4.3.6+2.1.4+6.5.1+4.3.5+6.1.3+4.2.6+5.3.1; Where 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 represent warp page frame numbers; the "+" signs only indicate a spacing. The selvage weaving is on pages 7 and 8. The selvage is designed to be 1.25cm wide, with a total of 76 threads. The threads are woven in alternations of 77.88. Two threads are woven into each heddle, and four threads are woven into each reed tooth. The reed width is 174.7. Method for threading amenorrhea membranes: thread in order of rows 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6; (d) Weaving process: Tsudakoma ZAX-N210 multi-arm loom is used for production. The weaving process parameters are as follows: the heald frame heights for pages 1 to 8 are 82, 80, 83, 78, 84, 84, 86, and 86 mm, respectively; the opening amounts for pages 1 to 8 are 75, 70, 65, 60, 90, 85, 65, and 60 mm, respectively; the side support angle is centered; the opening time is 280 degrees; and the warp loosening time is 310 degrees. The weft insertion time is 65° to 260°, the main jet is 70° to 180°, the auxiliary main jet is 80° to 170°, the average weft insertion range is 80° to 230°, and the back beam height is 75mm; the warp stop frame process is No. 2.1-1.5-6; the warp tension is controlled between 2500 and 2700N, the normal operating speed is 550 rpm, and the machine operation technology route of "medium tension, medium opening, medium back beam, and medium air pressure" is adopted.

[0005] Compared with existing technologies, the weaving process of the diacetate and bamboo blend jacquard shirt fabric of this invention uses a blend of diacetate and bamboo fibers for both warp and weft yarns, with a diacetate content of 50% and a bamboo content of 50%. This structural modification gives the shirt fabric both tensile strength and high comfort against the skin, offering advantages such as breathability, softness, and comfort. Its functionality and design are favored by consumers. As a synthetic fiber, diacetate fiber is derived from natural wood pulp. Its cross-section has grooves, providing excellent breathability. It is similar to silk in appearance, feel, and performance, but at a relatively lower price. The diacetate and bamboo blend jacquard shirt fabric is soft and smooth, with an elegant luster, high color fastness, good abrasion resistance, easy care, and energy-saving and environmentally friendly, providing a good example for the sustainable development of the textile industry. Attached Figure Description

[0006] Figure 1 This is a schematic diagram of the fabric structure of the present invention. Detailed Implementation

[0007] like Figure 1 As shown, the present invention discloses a weaving process for a diacetate and bamboo blend jacquard shirt fabric, wherein the specifications of the diacetate and bamboo blend jacquard shirt fabric are diacetate / bamboo (50 / 50) 11.8 × diacetate / bamboo (50 / 50) 11.8 472 / 393.5 170cm jacquard fabric; The fabric pattern is a six-hedron ground weave, with the weave structure using a combination of two-up-two-down, one-up-two-down, one-up-one-down, and two-up-one-down structures. The six-hedron structure is interwoven, and the warp and weft repeats are both 36. The design minimizes the number of hedrons, ensuring consistent tension in all directions. See details... Figure 1 By employing 36 warp and 36 weft cycles, the tightness and difficulty of the weaving design are greatly reduced, ensuring a soft and comfortable fabric surface.

[0008] The fabric uses acetic acid / bamboo (50 / 50) 11.8tex yarn for both warp and weft. Here, the blending ratio of acetic acid / bamboo is 50:50, the yarn number is 11.8tex, and both are compactly spun. The warp density is 472 ends / 10cm, the weft density is 393.5 ends / 10cm, and the fabric width is 170cm. The diacetate fiber of this invention is a synthetic fiber made from natural cellulose such as wood pulp or cotton pulp. It is environmentally friendly and sustainable. Diacetate fiber fabric is very similar to silk in appearance, feel, and performance, but is relatively inexpensive and easy to care for, and can, to some extent, replace silk, meeting the market demand for high-quality fibers. Bamboo fiber is a cellulose fiber extracted from naturally grown bamboo, possessing excellent moisture absorption and breathability. This invention combines the advantages of both fibers to create a jacquard shirt fabric made from a blend of diacetate fiber and bamboo fiber. It offers a good feel and appearance, excellent moisture absorption and breathability, easy care and maintenance, and is energy-saving, recyclable, and environmentally friendly, making it a rare high-end fabric in the summer shirt market.

[0009] The weaving process of the diacetate and bamboo blend jacquard shirt fabric includes the following steps: warping process → sizing process → heddle threading and reed threading process → weaving process; (a) Warping process: 674 warping heads, 12 warp beams, and a total of 8088 warping heads; select a large V-shaped micro-tension device warping machine, keep the warping yarns of the same size, and replace the yarns at the same time to ensure consistent unwinding tension; control the machine speed within 500 r / min; the warping process is the first process of weaving, and its purpose is to wind the yarns parallel and evenly on the warping beam according to the process requirements and the specified length.

[0010] (b) Sizing Process: Sizing agents: 10 kg polyvinyl alcohol, 50 kg textile starch, 25 kg new environmentally friendly sizing agent, 25 kg grafted starch, 20 kg modified starch; Sizing machine: Tsudakoma HS-40 type, double-immersion double-pressure sizing; Sizing pressure should be controlled if it is too low. During normal operation, the pressure setting requirements are: high speed: 8.5KN to 9.5KN, low speed: 7.5KN, stop: 6.5KN; Normal operating speed should be controlled within 50 m / min as much as possible, and the machine should be operated at a constant speed; Before discharging the sizing agent, the residual water in the sizing pipeline and sizing tank must be completely drained. During operation, the steam valves of both the large and small sizing tanks must be closed, and low-temperature sizing should be carried out using the temperature of the sizing agent itself. The temperature value of the sizing tank on the computer panel can be flexibly controlled within the specified range, with the principle of ensuring normal operation without temperature alarm.

[0011] (c) Reed threading process: Reed specifications: 153.5 teeth / 10cm, 3 yarns in each tooth, the ground weave threading method is: 4.5.6+1.2.5+6.3.4+1.5.2+3.6.5+4.3.6+2.1.4+6.5.1+4.3.5+6.1.3+4.2.6+5.3.1; Where 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 represent warp page frame numbers; the "+" signs only indicate a spacing. The selvage weaving is on pages 7 and 8. The selvage is designed to be 1.25cm wide, with a total of 76 threads. The threads are woven in alternations of 77.88. Two threads are woven into each heddle, and four threads are woven into each reed tooth. The reed width is 174.7. Method for inserting amenorrhea tablets: Insert in the order of columns 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6.

[0012] (d) Weaving process: Tsudakoma ZAX-N210 multi-arm weaving machine is used. The weaving process parameters are as follows: the heald frame heights of pages 1 to 8 are 82, 80, 83, 78, 84, 84, 86, and 86 mm, the opening amounts of pages 1 to 8 are 75, 70, 65, 60, 90, 85, 65, and 60 mm, the selvedge angle is centered, the opening time is 280 degrees, the warp loosening time is 310 degrees, and the weft stop time is 65° to 260°. Main jetting angle is 70° to 180°, auxiliary main jetting angle is 80° to 170°, average weft insertion angle is 80° to 230°, and back beam height is 75mm; warp stop frame process: No. 2.1-1.5-6; warp tension is controlled between 2500 and 2700N, with a slightly lower tension control without affecting weaving; loom speed is controlled at a slightly lower level, with a normal operating speed of about 550 rpm, and the machine operation technology route of "medium tension, medium shedding, medium back beam, and medium air pressure" is adopted.

[0013] In actual production and weaving, the main problems with functional and thin fabrics are numerous weft-dense paths and start-up marks caused by machine start-up. Weft-dense path defects are primarily due to improper operator procedures. For functional fabrics, a single failed start-up attempt after a machine stop is not reported to the repair shop promptly. After the weft stops and yarn is pulled out, the weft insertion point is not leveled before threading the weft feeder and starting the machine, but instead the machine is started directly, resulting in a failure to promptly control the weft-dense path. Another issue is the abundance of thin weft threads on both sides of thin fabrics. This is often due to improper installation and adjustment of the side supports during machine start-up, a lack of timely operational oversight and rectification, and inexperienced operators lacking mastery of start-up techniques and analysis of machine stops, leading to repeated failed start-ups and resulting in weft-dense paths. The start-up marks need to be assessed to determine whether the weft is sparse across the entire width or half-width. For half-width sparse weft, check for wear on the back beam tension sleeve and loose screws on the disc. For full-width sparse weft, check the left take-up gearbox; for edge sparse weft, use the side support lifting method. Each time you drive on a dense road or with a track, do not start with empty weft winding. Test the winding by adjusting the weft by 0.5 in the forward direction and check the reed gap. If the gap is large, open the housing to check and treat the friction plate on the right side by adding oil.

Claims

1. A weaving process for a diacetate and bamboo blend jacquard shirt fabric, characterized in that: the specifications of the diacetate and bamboo blend jacquard shirt fabric are diacetate / bamboo (50 / 50) 11.8 × diacetate / bamboo (50 / 50) 11.8 472 / 393.5 170cm jacquard fabric; The fabric pattern is a six-page ground weave, and the fabric structure adopts a combination structure of two up and two down, one up and two down, one up and one down, and two up and one down. The six-page structure is matched with each other. The warp repeat of the fabric is 36, and the weft repeat is also 36. The fabric uses diacetate / bamboo (50 / 50) 11.8tex yarn for both warp and weft, and both are tightly spun. The warp density is 472 threads / 10cm, the weft density is 393.5 threads / 10cm, and the fabric width is 170cm. The weaving process of the diacetate and bamboo blend jacquard shirt fabric includes the following steps: warping process → sizing process → heddle threading and reed threading process → weaving process; (a) Warping process: 674 warping heads, 12 warp beams, and a total of 8088 warping heads; a large V-shaped micro-tension device warping machine is selected to keep the warping yarns of the same size, and the yarn is replaced at the same time to ensure consistent unwinding tension; the machine speed is controlled within 500 r / min. (b) Sizing process: Sizing agent selection: 10 kg polyvinyl alcohol, 50 kg textile starch, 25 kg new environmentally friendly sizing agent, 25 kg grafted starch, 20 kg modified starch; Sizing machine selection: Tsudakoma HS-40 sizing machine, double dip double pressure sizing; When sizing is running normally, the pressure setting requirements are: 8.5 KN to 9.5 KN at high speed, 7.5 KN at low speed, and 6.5 KN when stopped; The normal running speed is controlled within 50 m / min, and the running speed is uniform. (c) Reed threading process: Reed specifications: 153.5 teeth / 10cm, 3 yarns in each tooth, the ground weave threading method is: 4.5.6+1.2.5+6.3.4+1.5.2+3.6.5+4.3.6+2.1.4+6.5.1+4.3.5+6.1.3+4.2.6+5.3.1; Where 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 represent warp page frame numbers; the "+" signs only indicate intervals. The selvage weaving is on pages 7 and 8. The selvage is designed to be 1.25cm wide, with a total of 76 threads. The threads are woven in alternations of 77.

88. Two threads are woven into each heddle, and four threads are woven into each reed tooth. The reed width is 174.

7. How to insert the amenorrhea tablet:

1.

2.

3.

4.

5. 6 Columns are arranged in sequence; (d) Weaving process: Tsudakoma ZAX-N210 multi-arm loom is used for production. The weaving process parameters are as follows: the heald frame heights for pages 1 to 8 are 82, 80, 83, 78, 84, 84, 86, and 86 mm, respectively; the opening amounts for pages 1 to 8 are 75, 70, 65, 60, 90, 85, 65, and 60 mm, respectively; the side support angle is centered; the opening time is 280 degrees; and the warp loosening time is 310 degrees. The weft insertion time is 65° to 260°, the main jet is 70° to 180°, the auxiliary main jet is 80° to 170°, the average weft insertion range is 80° to 230°, and the back beam height is 75mm; the warp stop frame process is No. 2.1-1.5-6; the warp tension is controlled between 2500 and 2700N, the normal operating speed is 550 rpm, and the machine operation technology route of "medium tension, medium opening, medium back beam, and medium air pressure" is adopted.