Conditioner for keratin fibers

Abstract

Cosmetic formulation containing (i) at least one dye precursor selected from the group consisting of indoline derivatives and indole derivatives, (ii) at least one tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium compound each containing at least one N-bonded aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 10-32 carbon atoms, which may optionally contain a -C(O)O- or -O- group, (iii) at least one aliphatic hydrocarbon having at least 10, preferably 10-50, carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted by at least one functional group selected from -OH and -COOR, where R is independently H, a glycerol derivative or a physiologically acceptable cation, where the weight ratio of component (ii) to component (iii) is in the range of 1:1-1:8, preferably 1:2-1:5.

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic formulation comprising a dye precursor, a tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium compound, and an aliphatic hydrocarbon having at least 10 carbon atoms. The invention further relates to a kit comprising the cosmetic formulation according to the invention in combination with an additional cosmetic formulation, such as a shampoo.

[0002] A person's hair color depends on the amount of melanins, eumelanin and pheomelanin, contained in the hair fiber layer and produced by melanocytes in the hair follicles. As part of the normal aging process, but also due to certain medical conditions, stress, vitamin and mineral deficiencies, or excessive alcohol or nicotine consumption, melanin production can decrease, resulting in hypopigmentation. Such hair appears white or colorless to the observer. The visual appearance of gray hair results from the mixture of pigmented and apigmented hair.

[0003] The average life cycle of a hair is three to seven years. After that, the hair falls out and a new hair grows in its place. Gradually, the proportion of white or pigmentless hairs predominates, and the hair turns gray.

[0004] Changing hair color, and in particular the pigmentation or repigmentation of gray hair, represents an important area of ​​modern cosmetics. Good fastness properties, good gray coverage, and long-lasting coloring are particularly desirable.

[0005] For permanent, intensive dyeings with good fastness properties and good gray coverage, oxidation dyes are traditionally used. Such dyes typically contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components, and coupler components, which, under the influence of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide or atmospheric oxygen, form the actual dyes, either with each other or by coupling with one or more coupler components.

[0006] However, the use of oxidative dyes is still associated with impairments or damage to the hair and especially its surface structure.

[0007] Alternatively, precursors of the natural hair pigment melanin can be applied to the hair, which, through oxidative processes in the hair, form virtually nature-identical pigments. Coloring can be achieved using atmospheric oxygen as the sole oxidizing agent, thus eliminating the need for additional oxidizing agents. One such process using 5,6-dihydroxyindoline as a dye precursor is described, for example, in EP 0 530 229 B1.

[0008] In contrast, direct dyes, also known as substantive dyes, are used for temporary coloring. These are dye molecules that absorb directly into the hair and no longer require an oxidative process to develop the color. Compared to oxidative hair coloring, the colors obtained with substantive dyes are less durable and wash out more quickly. Colorings with substantive dyes typically remain on the hair for between 5 and 20 washes.

[0009] WO 99 / 66890 describes a dye for dyeing keratin fibers containing a dye precursor, which may be an indoline or indole derivative, e.g., a derivative of 5,6-dihydroxyindoline or 5,6-dihydroxyindole, and an amino acid or oligopeptide. The color can be formed by air oxidation.

[0010] DE 10 2018 127 182 A1 relates to a two-component system for artificial hair coloring, comprising, separately, an anhydrous carrier medium comprising an alkane, a fatty alcohol, and an alcohol, as well as an aqueous phase containing hydrogen peroxide. An organosilicon compound from the silane group may be included for hair protection and care.

[0011] DE 10 2007 038 484 A1 describes a hair treatment product for protection against external influences, wherein the hair treatment product contains bacterial ferment(s) from Thermus thermophilus.

[0012] WO 2005 / 007615 A1 relates to 2-(amino- or substituted amino)-5-(substituted oxymethyl)-phenol compounds and compositions for the oxidative dyeing of keratin fibers.

[0013] EP 4 154 864 describes a cosmetic formulation which contains, in addition to dye precursors, a direct dye.

[0014] The described dye compositions usually require quite harsh application conditions, such as a strongly alkaline pH value or strongly oxidizing conditions that can damage the hair structure.

[0015] There is therefore a need for care products that simultaneously pigment the hair with high fastness properties, good gray coverage and long-lasting color performance.

[0016] Surprisingly, it was found that the results in terms of quality of care and intensity and duration of coloring performance are improved when the care formulation contains, in addition to dye precursors, tertiary amines or quaternary ammonium compounds and - possibly functionalized - aliphatic hydrocarbons in a certain ratio.

[0017] The object of the present invention can therefore be seen in providing a cosmetic formulation which is simultaneously suitable for the care and colouring of keratin fibres.

[0018] The task was surprisingly solved by a cosmetic formulation that (i) at least one dye precursor selected from the group consisting of indoline derivatives and indole derivatives, (ii) at least one tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium compound each containing at least one N-bonded aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 10-32 carbon atoms, (iii) at least one aliphatic hydrocarbon having at least 10, preferably 10-50, carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted by at least one functional group selected from -OH and -COOR, where R is independently H, a glycerol derivative or a physiologically acceptable cation, wherein the weight ratio of component (ii) to component (iii) is in the range of 1:1-1:8, preferably 1:2-1:5.

[0019] Surprisingly, it was discovered that the inventive formulation significantly covers gray hair and gradually darkens the hair overall, with the color effect building up subtly. Furthermore, even after repeated washing, the color hardly fades, and graying at the roots is reduced. Even with regular use of the inventive formulation, the hair does not develop a straw-like feel or split ends, as is often the case with conventional coloring products. The inventive formulation gives the hair a beautiful shine and easy combability.

[0020] The dye precursor contained in the formulation according to the invention, which is an indole derivative and / or indoline derivative, is preferably an indole derivative and / or indoline derivative that has a hydroxyl or amino group, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring. These groups can bear further substituents, e.g., in the form of an etherification or esterification of the hydroxyl group or an alkylation of the amino group. Compounds with two of these groups, in particular two hydroxyl groups, one or both of which may be etherified or esterified, are particularly preferred.

[0021] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the dye precursor is an indole derivative.

[0022] According to the invention, the dye precursor is preferably a derivative of 5,6-dihydroxyindole of the formula (I), where, each independently, R 1represents hydrogen, a C1-C4 alkyl group or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group, R 2 hydrogen or a -COOH group, where the -COOH group can also be present as a salt with a physiologically acceptable cation, R 3 represents hydrogen or a C1-C4 alkyl group, R 4 Hydrogen, a C1-C4 alkyl group, an amino group or a group - COR 6 means in the R 6 a C1-C4 alkyl group, and R 5 one of the under R 4 mentioned groups means or a physiologically acceptable salt of these compounds with an organic or inorganic acid.

[0023] Preferred indole derivatives are 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole.

[0024] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the compound of formula (I) is selected from 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole and their physiologically acceptable salts.

[0025] Most preferably, the dye precursor used in the formulation according to the invention is 5,6-dihydroxyindole.

[0026] In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the dye precursor is an indoline derivative.

[0027] Preferably, the dye precursor is a derivative of 5,6-dihydroxyindoline of formula (II), where, each independently, R 1 represents hydrogen, a C1-C4 alkyl group or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group, R 2 hydrogen or a -COOH group, where the -COOH group can also be present as a salt with a physiologically acceptable cation, R 3represents hydrogen or a C1-C4 alkyl group, R 4 Hydrogen, a C1-C4 alkyl group, an amino group or a group - COR 6 means in the R 6 a C1-C4 alkyl group, and R 5 one of the under R 4 mentioned groups means or a physiologically acceptable salt of these compounds with an organic or inorganic acid.

[0028] Preferred indoline derivatives are 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline.

[0029] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the compound of formula (II) is selected from 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and their physiologically acceptable salts.

[0030] Most preferably, the dye precursor used in the formulation according to the invention is 5,6-dihydroxyindoline.

[0031] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the dye precursor used in the formulation according to the invention is dihydroxyindoline hydrobromide (2,3-dihydro-1H-indole-5,6-diol hydrobromide).

[0032] The indole and indoline derivatives contained in the compositions according to the invention can be used both as free bases and in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts with inorganic or organic acids, e.g., hydrochlorides, sulfates, and hydrobromides.

[0033] The indole or indoline derivative is usually present in the formulation according to the invention in an amount of 0.01-0.5 wt.%, preferably 0.05-0.5 wt.%, preferably 0.05-0.4 wt.%, preferably 0.1-0.3 wt.%, preferably 0.05-0.2 wt.%, more preferably in an amount of 0.05-0.15 wt.%, about 0.05 wt.%, about 0.1 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the formulation.

[0034] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the dye precursor is an indole derivative, preferably 5,6-dihydroxyindole, which is preferably contained in the formulation according to the invention in an amount of 0.01-0.2 wt.%, preferably 0.05-0.15 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the formulation.

[0035] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the dye precursor is an indoline derivative, preferably dihydroxyindoline hydrobromide (2,3-dihydro-1H-indole-5,6-diol hydrobromide), which is preferably contained in the formulation according to the invention in an amount of 0.01-0.2 wt.%, preferably 0.05-0.15 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the formulation.

[0036] The formulation according to the invention may also contain more than one indole or indoline derivative or mixtures of indole and indoline derivatives.

[0037] The formation of the pigment from the dye precursor, i.e. the indole or indoline derivative, occurs by reaction with atmospheric oxygen; no additional oxidizing agent is required.

[0038] Furthermore, the cosmetic formulation contains at least one tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium compound, each containing at least one N-bonded aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 10-32 carbon atoms, which may optionally contain a -C(O)O- or -O- group (component (ii)).

[0039] The aliphatic hydrocarbon radical is preferably saturated or unsaturated, in particular saturated.

[0040] The aliphatic hydrocarbon residue is preferably unbranched.

[0041] The aliphatic hydrocarbon radical preferably has 10-23 carbon atoms. Component (ii) is preferably a quaternary ammonium compound with an N-bonded aliphatic, preferably unbranched, hydrocarbon radical having 10-23 carbon atoms.

[0042] In particular, the aliphatic hydrocarbon residue is a hexadecane, heptadecane, octadecane, eicosane or behenyl residue.

[0043] The nitrogen atom in the tertiary amine has a total of three covalent valences. The nitrogen atom in the quaternary ammonium compound has a total of four valences. At least one valence of the nitrogen atom is occupied by the hydrocarbon radical described above. The remaining free valences of the nitrogen atom in the tertiary amine or in the quaternary ammonium compound are preferably occupied by C1-C4 alkyl radicals or C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals, especially methyl or ethyl radicals.

[0044] The positive charge in the quaternary ammonium compound is preferably balanced by physiologically compatible anions such as halides, especially chloride and bromide, or methosulfate.

[0045] Preferred tertiary amines are, for example, behenyldimethylamine, behenyldiethylamine, eicosanedimethylamine and eicosanediethylamine.

[0046] Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, bis-(isostearoyl / oleoyl isopropyl) dimonium methosulfate and esterquats.

[0047] Component (ii) is preferably present at 0.1-10 wt.%, more preferably 0.5-5 wt.%, even more preferably 1-5 wt.%, even more preferably 1-3 wt.%, even more preferably 1.5-2.5 wt.%, based on the total mass in the cosmetic formulation.

[0048] According to the invention, the cosmetic formulation contains at least one aliphatic hydrocarbon having at least 10 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted with at least one functional group selected from -OH and -COOR (component (iii)).

[0049] The aliphatic hydrocarbon is preferably a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon, particularly preferably a saturated hydrocarbon. The hydrocarbon preferably has 10-50, more preferably 10-24, carbon atoms. The hydrocarbons according to component (iii) are preferably unbranched. The aliphatic hydrocarbon is preferably an unbranched hydrocarbon having 10-24 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by -OH or -COOR, where R is H or a physiologically acceptable cation, such as Na or K.

[0050] The aliphatic hydrocarbon is preferably a saturated and unbranched hydrocarbon with 10-24 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with -OH.

[0051] Preferred representatives of component (iii) are paraffins, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, glycerol fatty acid esters or their salts, in particular fatty alcohols.

[0052] Preferred paraffins (unsubstituted hydrocarbon) are C 10-24 -Paraffins, more preferably C 16-24 -Paraffins.

[0053] Preferred fatty alcohols (substituted with -OH) are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, margaryl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, especially lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, especially cetearyl alcohol (a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohol).

[0054] Preferred fatty acids (R=H) are capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, margaric acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, and behenic acid, especially lauric acid, palmitic acid and stearic acid, more preferably palmitic acid and stearic acid.

[0055] In the case of R=glycerol derivative, in particular glycerol residue, glycerol monofatty acid ester residue, or glycerol difatty acid ester residue, the substituted hydrocarbon is a glycerol fatty acid ester. In the present invention, the term "glycerol fatty acid ester" refers to a glycerol mono-, glycerol di-, or glycerol trifatty acid ester. Glycerol difatty acid esters have the formula R'-COO-(CH2CH(OH)CH2)-OOCR' or R'-COO-(CH2CH(OOCR')CH2)-OH. Glycerol monofatty acid esters have the formula R'-COO-(CH2CH(OH)CH2)-OH or HO-(CH2CH(OOCR')CH2)-OH. Where R' is independently the aliphatic hydrocarbon as defined above. Glycerol monofatty acid esters contain a glycerol group bonded to a single fatty acid via an ester bond. Examples include glycerol monostearate, glycerol monobehenate, glycerol monocaprylate, glycerol monocaprate, and glycerol monolaurate. In glycerol trifatty acid esters, all hydroxyl groups of the glycerol are esterified with fatty acids.

[0056] Preferably, component (iii) is at least one paraffin, fatty alcohol, fatty acid, glycerol fatty acid ester or a mixture thereof, in particular at least one saturated C 10-24 -fatty alcohol, at least one saturated C 10-24 -fatty acid or a mixture thereof, most preferably at least one saturated C 10-24 -fatty alcohol.

[0057] According to the invention, the proportion of component (iii) is at least 2 wt.%, preferably 4-20 wt.%, more preferably 3-17 wt.%, more preferably 4-17 wt.%, even more preferably 4-8 wt.%, even more preferably 3-5 wt.%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic formulation.

[0058] The weight ratio of component (ii) to component (iii) is in the range of 1:1 to 1:8, preferably 1:2 to 1:5, preferably 1:2 to 1:4. By adjusting the weight ratio of component (ii) to (iii) within the claimed range, an improved color effect is achieved.

[0059] With the combination of components (ii) and (iii), a pH value in the range of 4-9, preferably 5-8, preferably 6-7.5, and most preferably 6-<7 can be adjusted. The formulation is stable in this pH range.

[0060] Surprisingly, it has been shown that when components (ii) and (iii) are present in the cosmetic formulation, dye precursors penetrate the keratin fibers more quickly, despite an acidic to neutral pH range. This increases the color depth and simultaneously improves the duration of the coloring performance compared to conventional formulations. Furthermore, the exposure time can be shortened.

[0061] The acidic or nearly neutral pH value of the formulation also has positive properties on the hair feel, shine and combability of the treated hair.

[0062] In addition, component (iii) ensures a good feel of the formulation and the desired viscosity in order to achieve the strongest possible adhesion of the cosmetic formulation to the keratin fiber.

[0063] Furthermore, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention can contain at least one direct dye, such as a nitrophenylenediamine, nitroaminophenol, nitro dye, azo dye, anthraquinone, or indophenol (component (iv)). Component (iv) is preferably present in an amount of 0.001 to 3 wt.%, preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 2 wt.%, more preferably 0.3 to 0.9 wt.%, based on the total mass of the formulation.

[0064] It was found that the color effect of a formulation containing a direct dye in addition to the indole or indoline-type dye precursor is more intense than would be expected based on the color effects of the individual components, the indole or indoline-type dye precursor and the direct dye. The darkening effects are synergistically enhanced by the combination with direct dyes.

[0065] As mentioned at the beginning, direct dyes are dye molecules that are absorbed directly onto the hair and no longer require an oxidative process to develop the color.

[0066] Preferred direct dyes include nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, nitro dyes, anthraquinones and indophenols and are preferably selected from the group of dyes known under the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Yellow 87, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, Acid Orange 7, Basic Orange 31, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57:1, Basic Red 51, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, HC Blue 16, Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Basic Blue 99, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 as well as 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-Bis-(β-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-nitrobenzene,3-Nitro-4-(β-hydroxyethyl)-aminophenol, 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 1-(2'-Hydroxyethyl)amino-4-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-Amino-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-Amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-(2-Ureidoethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzene, 4-Amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-Nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-Hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, Hydroxyethyl-2-nitro-toluidine, picramic acid and its salts, 2-Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-Ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-Chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene.,

[0067] In a preferred embodiment, the direct dye is selected from the group consisting of 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis-(β-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-nitrobenzene, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Basic Blue 99, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, HC Blue 16 and Acid Violet 43.

[0068] In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the direct dye is HC Blue 2.

[0069] In a preferred embodiment, the formulation according to the invention contains 5,6-dihydroxyindole as a dye precursor and HC Blue 2 as a direct dye. 5,6-dihydroxyindole is present in an amount of 0.05-0.15 wt.% and the direct dye in an amount of 0.01-0.9 wt.%, each based on the total weight of the formulation.

[0070] To improve processability and adjust viscosity, the cosmetic formulation may further contain water, in particular purified or distilled water (component (v)). The cosmetic formulation preferably contains 70 to 95 wt.%, more preferably 80 to 95 wt.%, more preferably 85 to 95 wt.%, of water, based on the total mass of the formulation.

[0071] Furthermore, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention can contain all additives known in such preparations (ie active ingredients, additives and auxiliaries).

[0072] In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation comprises a surfactant. The surfactant can be an anionic, non-ionic, cationic or zwitterionic surfactant. The surfactant is preferably an anionic or non-ionic surfactant, in particular an anionic or non-ionic surfactant that is as mild as possible (i.e., particularly skin-compatible). Non-ionic surfactants are used according to the invention in particular because of their very good emulsification properties and their excellent skin care properties. Anionic surfactants are preferred because they have a particularly high cleaning performance. They are therefore particularly suitable in cleaning formulations such as shampoos. Cationic surfactants have excellent hair care properties and are used according to the invention in particular in hair care formulations such as conditioners, shampoos and treatments.

[0073] The formulation according to the invention preferably contains surfactants in an amount of 2 to 40 wt.%, in particular 5 to 30 wt.%, preferably 7 to 20 wt.%, particularly preferably 10 to 17 wt.%, based in each case on the total weight of the formulation. Suitable amounts of surfactant are: 8 wt.%; 9 wt.%; 10 wt.%; 11 wt.%; 12 wt.%; 13 wt.%; 14 wt.%; 15 wt.%; 16 wt.%; 17 wt.%; 18 wt.%; 19 wt.%; 20 wt.%; 21 wt.%; 22 wt.%; 23 wt.%; 24 wt.%; 25 wt.%, based in each case on the total weight of the formulation. The cosmetic formulation of the invention particularly preferably contains one or more anionic surfactants in an amount of 0.1 to 20 wt.%, preferably 1 to 17 wt.%, and particularly preferably 5 to 15 wt.%, based in each case on the total weight of the formulation. Suitable amounts of anionic surfactant are: 1 wt.%; 2 wt.%; 3 wt.%; 4 wt.%; 5 wt.%; 6 wt.%; 7 wt.%; 8 wt.%; 9 wt.%; 10 wt.%; 11 wt.%; 12 wt.%.-%; 13 wt.%; 14 wt.%; 15 wt.%; 16 wt.%; 17 wt.%; 18 wt.%, 19 wt.%, 20 wt.%, each based on the total weight of the formulation. In these amounts, the surfactants exhibit particularly high cleaning performance and are extremely well tolerated by skin, scalp, and hair.

[0074] In a preferred embodiment, the surfactant is an anionic surfactant selected from alkyl sulfonates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl taurates, amino acid surfactants, and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferably, the surfactant is selected from alkyl sulfates, alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl taurates, alkyl glutamate, such as sodium cocoyl glutamate / disodium cocoyl glutamate, alkyl glycinate, alkyl alaninate, such as sodium cocoyl alaninate, and mixtures thereof. Also preferred due to their cleaning performance are fatty alcohol polyglycerol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, and α-olefin sulfonates.

[0075] Alkyl sulfates have the generic formula ROSO3M, alkyl sarcosinates have the generic formula RC(O)N(CH3)CH2CO2M, and alkyl taurates have the generic formula RC(O)N(CH3)CH2CH2SO3M, where R is a C4-C 26 -alkyl or C4-C 26 -alkenyl and M is a water-soluble cation such as ammonium, sodium or potassium. Preferably, M is a sodium cation. Preferably, R is a C 12 -C 16 -alkyl or a C 12 -C 18 -Alkyl.

[0076] In one embodiment, the surfactant is a nonionic surfactant (also referred to as a nonionic emulsifier). Non-limiting examples include polyoxyethylene ethers of one or more fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters, polyglycerol ethers of fatty alcohols, polyglycerol esters of fatty acids, polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol ethers, fatty acid amides, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, amine oxides, and alkyl polyglucosides.

[0077] In one embodiment, the surfactant is selected from the group of polyoxyethylene ethers of one or more fatty alcohols, polyglycerol ethers of fatty alcohols, polyglycerol esters of fatty acids and mixtures thereof.

[0078] Polyoxyethylene ethers are compounds of the formula R 5 (OC2H3) n OH, where R 5 is selected from C6-C 28 -Alkyl, C6-C 28 -alkenyl, substituted and unsubstituted phenoxy groups; and n is an integer greater than 1. Preferably, the polyoxyethylene ether of one or more fatty alcohols is selected from the group consisting of steareth-2, steareth-21, macrogol cetostearyl ether 12, ceteareth-25, macrogol cetostearyl ether 20, and mixtures of the aforementioned compounds. Even more preferably, the polyoxyethylene ether is a compound selected from the group consisting of ceteareth-25, macrogol cetostearyl ether 20, and mixtures of the aforementioned compounds.

[0079] The term “polyglycerol ethers of fatty alcohols” refers to a compound of the formula R 6 O-(C3HeO2) n -H, where R 6 a branched or linear C6-C 28 -alkyl or C6-C 28 -alkenyl and n is an integer greater than 1, preferably an integer from 2 to 10. It is preferred that the formulation contains 0.01 to 15.0 wt.%, 0.1 to 10.0 wt.%, or 1 to 5.0 wt.% polyglycerol ether.

[0080] The term “polyglycerol esters of fatty acids” refers to compounds containing both a polyglycerol unit and at least one C6-C 26 -alkyl or C6-C 26 -alkenylcarboxylic acid unit. These compounds may have the formula R 7 -R 8 -(C3H6O2) n -H, where R 7 a C6-C 26 -alkanoate- or C6-C 26 -alkenoate residue and R 8a suitable connecting molecule or a direct bond. Thus, the polyglycerol unit and the C6-C 26 -alkyl or C6-C 26 -Alkenylcarboxylic acid unit may be directly linked by an ester bond or contain a linking unit connecting these two units. Non-limiting examples of this group are polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, polyglycerol polycrinoleate, polyglyceryl dimerate isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquiisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 distearate (Cremophor GS 32), polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-3 methylglycose distearate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010190), polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate (Isolan GPS), and polyglyceryl-4 isostearate.

[0081] In one embodiment, the surfactant comprises a cationic surfactant. Advantageous surfactants are alkylamidopropyl betaine and alkylamidopropylhydroxysulfaine, imidazoline derivatives, and compounds with cationic character such as amine oxides, for example, alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides.

[0082] In the present invention, the surfactant as defined above is different from component (ii) and component (iii).

[0083] In a further embodiment, the formulation according to the invention contains at least one additive. Preference is given to additives that are typically used in shampoos, conditioners, and emulsions for treating the skin, scalp, and hair. In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation comprises caffeine as an additive. The at least one additive can be present in a proportion of 0.01 wt.% to 12.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.25 wt.% to 10.0 wt.%, in particular 0.5 to 5.0 wt.%.

[0084] The at least one additive may further be selected from the group consisting of hair conditioning agents, refatting agents, preservatives, stabilizers, fragrances, antioxidants, rheology modifiers, thickeners, care agents, dyes, pearlizing agents, lightening agents, solvents, setting compounds, anti-dandruff agents, vitamins, alkalizing agents or pH adjusters and combinations thereof.

[0085] Hair conditioners can reduce static electricity in the hair by neutralizing electrical charges on its surface. Examples of hair conditioners include quaternary ammonium compounds.

[0086] Refatting agents, also called refatting or superfatting agents, are lipophilic substances that can prevent disruptive effects on the epidermal barrier function. Examples of refatting agents include lanolin, squalene, liquid paraffin, vegetable oils, silicones, and cetyl palmitate.

[0087] Preservatives are substances used for preservation by killing and / or inhibiting the growth of microorganisms that degrade the formulation. The preservatives can preferably be selected from the group consisting of benzoic acid, benzoic acid derivatives, sorbic acid, sorbic acid derivatives, salicylic acid, salicylic acid derivatives, phenoxyethanol, parabens, and combinations thereof. In a preferred embodiment, sodium benzoate and / or potassium sorbate are used as preservatives in the formulation according to the invention. In a slightly acidic environment, sodium benzoate releases benzoic acid, and potassium sorbate releases sorbic acid. Both acids are said to have an antimicrobial effect.

[0088] Stabilizers can protect light-sensitive components against radiation and are preferably UV absorbers such as benzophenone derivatives.

[0089] The addition of fragrances can provide a pleasant smell to the formulation. Examples include perfumes, which are familiar to those in the art.

[0090] An antioxidant is a chemical compound that slows down or completely prevents the oxidation of other components in the formulation according to the invention. Examples of suitable antioxidants include citric acid, ascorbic acid, sodium sulfite, and butylhydroxyanisole.

[0091] Rheology modifiers and thickeners can help improve the application properties of the formulation according to the invention. The addition of table salt (sodium chloride) can be considered as a rheology modifier and thickener. By adding table salt, the flowability of the formulation according to the invention can be influenced within certain limits and adjusted to the required level. Naturally occurring gelling agents can also be used as thickeners, preferably selected from agar, xanthan gum, cellulose and / or cellulose derivatives, or alginic acid.

[0092] For the purposes of the application, care products are understood to be substances that condition the hair and / or scalp. Hydrolyzed wheat protein, panthenol, and allantoin have a conditioning effect on the scalp and hair. Hydrolyzed wheat protein has primarily moisturizing properties.

[0093] The formulation according to the invention may contain additional colorants, for example, to impart a visually appealing color to the formulation. For example, CI 47005 may be included in the formulation according to the invention as a suitable colorant.

[0094] A solvent or solvent mixture commonly known to those skilled in the art can be used as the solvent. Preferred solvents are ethanol or butylene glycol, especially 1,4-butylene glycol, propylene glycol, and isopropyl alcohol. Ethanol or propylene glycol is preferred. These solvents can preferably be present in the formulation according to the invention in an amount of 0.1 to 70 wt.%. They are most preferably present in an amount of 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%.

[0095] Strengthening compounds are preferably selected from the group consisting of waxes, synthetic polymers, and mixtures thereof. Suitable strengthening compounds are known to the person skilled in the art and are described, for example, in Goddard, E. Desmond; Gruber, James V. (1999), "Principles of polymer science and technology in cosmetics and personal care", Series: Cosmetic science and technology series : v. 22., New York (Marcel Dekker, INC.); Schrader, Karlheinz (1989), "Grundlagen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika" (2nd edition), Chapter 3.7, Heidelberg (Hüthig); and Scott, Richard (2017), "Ingredients focus: cosmetic waxes and butters", Personal Care Europe 10(3), 46-47.

[0096] Antidandruff agents are used to control excessive dandruff formation on the scalp. Suitable antidandruff agents are known to those skilled in the art and are described, for example, in Trüeb, RM (2009). “Treating dandruff successfully.” Akt Dermatol 35(01 / 02): 19-24; Trueb, RM (2007). “Shampoos: ingredients, efficacy and adverse effects.” J. Dtsch. Dermatol. Ges. 5(5): 356-365; Sanfilippo, A. and J. English (2006). “An overview of medicated shampoos used in dandruff treatment.” P AND T 31(7): 396; and Futterer, E. (1981). “Evaluation of efficacy of antidandruff agents.” J Soc Cosmet Chem 32: 327-338.

[0097] Vitamins and minerals such as niacinamide (vitamin B3), vitamin E, or zinc are used to achieve a positive effect on hair growth and repair damaged hair. Suitable vitamins and minerals are known to those skilled in the art and are described, for example, in Pietrzik K, Golly I, Loew D, Handbook of Vitamins, Elsevier GmbH, Urban & Fischer Verlag, Munich 2008; H. Lautenschläger, Vitamins in Cosmetics, medical Beauty Forum 2020 (3), 14-17; and Martini MC, Chivot M, Peyrefitte G, Textbook of Cosmetics: Fundamentals - Basic Substances - Basic Techniques, Hogrefe AG, Bern 2001.

[0098] Alkalizing agents or pH adjusters are used to adjust the pH of the formulation to a desired range. Suitable alkalizing agents or pH adjusters include sodium hydroxide, monoethanolamine 0.1-5%, phosphoric acid, and citric acid.

[0099] Compositions according to the invention are preferably conditioner care products.

[0100] Surprisingly, it has been found that the property profile of the formulation according to the invention is particularly well suited to caring for and coloring hair at the same time.

[0101] The cosmetic formulation of the present invention is therefore used in particular for the care and simultaneous coloring of keratin fibers, in particular human hair.

[0102] For the purposes of the present invention, "keratin fibers" refers to hair, especially human hair. The term "human hair" includes, in particular, head hair and beard hair.

[0103] The cosmetic formulation of the present invention can further be used in combination with at least one additional cosmetic formulation. Typically, the additional cosmetic formulation, which differs from the formulation according to the invention, is a shampoo, a colorant, or a tonic. Preferably, the additional cosmetic formulation contains active ingredients, in particular xanthine derivatives such as caffeine and / or dye precursor (as defined above).

[0104] Shampoos, dyes, etc. are known to the person skilled in the art. The cosmetic formulation according to the invention is particularly preferably used in combination with the cosmetic formulation described in EP 4 154 864.

[0105] Accordingly, the present invention also relates to a kit comprising (a) a cosmetic formulation of the present invention and (b) a cosmetic formulation containing in particular a xanthine derivative and / or dye precursor (as defined above). (c)

[0106] Components (a) and (b) are different cosmetic formulations.

[0107] According to the invention, the composition is applied topically. Topical application is understood to mean external application, in particular local, external application, in particular directly to the keratin fiber.

[0108] Also described is a method for coloring and caring for keratin fibers, comprising the steps (1) Applying the cosmetic formulation of the present invention to the keratin fibers, (2) Exposure of the cosmetic formulation to air and, if necessary, conversion of the dye precursor to the dye with oxidizing agents and (3) Rinse the keratin fibers treated after step (2) with water.

[0109] Preferably, the cosmetic formulation of the present invention is distributed in step (1) onto the water-moist or dry hair, e.g. as when washing the hair.

[0110] In step (2), the formulation according to the invention is preferably allowed to act for 1-30 minutes, more preferably 2-20 minutes, even more preferably 1-5 minutes.

[0111] After step (2), the keratin fiber treated in this way is rinsed with water so that preferably all components of the formulation according to the invention are removed after step (3).

[0112] In a preferred embodiment, the keratin fibers can be treated with an additional cosmetic formulation, preferably a shampoo, before step (1) or after step (3). The method according to the invention is preferably carried out directly after washing the hair while it is still damp. The additional cosmetic formulation is as described above.

[0113] The following formulations are intended to clarify the invention without, however, wishing to restrict it to the specific examples. Example recipe 1 Inhaltsstoff Gew.-% Wasser 91,2 Niacinamide 1,05 HC Blue No. 16 0,3 Basic Red 76 0,35 Cetyl Alcohol 5 Behentrimoniumchlorid 2 5,6-Dihydroxyindole(DHI) 0,1 pH 6-7,5±0,5 Example recipe 2 Inhaltsstoff Gew.-% Wasser 91,15 Niacinamide 0,1 Caffeine 1 HC Blue No. 16 0,3 Basic Red 76 0,35 Cetearyl Alcohol 5 Behentrimoniumchlorid 2 5,6-Dihydroxyindole(DHI) 0,1 pH 6-7,5±0,5 Example recipe 3 Inhaltsstoff Gew.-% Wasser 89,65 Niacinamide 0,1 Caffeine 1 HC Blue No. 16 0,3 Basic Red 76 0,35 Cetyl Alcohol 7 Behentrimoniumchlorid 1,5 5,6-Dihydroxyindole(DHI) 0,1 pH 6-7,5±0,5 QUOTES CONTAINED IN THE DESCRIPTION

[0000] This list of documents submitted by the applicant was generated automatically and is included solely for the convenience of the reader. This list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions. Cited patent literature

[0000] EP 0 530 229 B1

[0007] WO 99 / 66890

[0009] DE 10 2018 127 182 A1

[0010] DE 10 2007 038 484 A1

[0011] WO 2005 / 007615 A1

[0012] EP 4 154 864 [0013, 0104] Cited non-patent literature

[0000] Goddard, E. Desmond; Gruber, James V. (1999), “Principles of polymer science and technology in cosmetics and personal care”, Series: Cosmetic science and technology series : v. 22., New York (Marcel Dekker, INC

[0095] Schrader, Karlheinz (1989), “Fundamentals and formulations of cosmetics” (2nd edition), Chapter 3.7, Heidelberg (Hüthig)

[0095] Scott, Richard (2017), “ingredients focus: cosmetic waxes and butters”, Personal Care Europe 10(3), 46-47

[0095] Trüeb, RM (2009). "Successfully treating dandruff." Akt Dermatol 35(01 / 02): 19-24

[0096] Trueb, R.M. (2007). “Shampoos: ingredients, efficacy and adverse effects.” J. German Dermatol. Ges. 5(5): 356-365

[0096] Sanfilippo, A. and J. English (2006). “An overview of medicated shampoos used in dandruff treatment.” P AND T 31(7): 396

[0096] Futterer, E. (1981). “Evaluation of efficacy of antidandruff agents.” J Soc Cosmet Chem 32: 327-338

[0096] Pietrzik K, Golly I, Loew D, Handbook of Vitamins, Elsevier GmbH, Urban & Fischer Verlag, Munich 2008

[0097] H. Lautenschläger, Vitamins in cosmetics, Medical Beauty Forum 2020 (3), 14-17

[0097] Martini MC, Chivot M., Peyrefitte G., Textbook of Cosmetics: Basics - Basic Ingredients - Basic Techniques, Hogrefe AG, Bern 2001

[0097]

Claims

[1] Cosmetic formulation containing (i) at least one dye precursor selected from the group consisting of indoline derivatives and indole derivatives, (ii) at least one tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium compound each containing at least one N-bonded aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 10-32 carbon atoms, which may optionally contain a -C(O)O- or -O- group, (iii) at least one aliphatic hydrocarbon having at least 10, preferably 10-50, carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted by at least one functional group selected from -OH and -COOR, where R is independently H, a glycerol derivative or a physiologically acceptable cation, where the weight ratio of component (ii) to component (iii) is in the range of 1:1-1:8, preferably 1:2-1:

5. [2] Cosmetic formulation according to claim 1, wherein the dye precursor is an indole derivative, in particular a 5,6-dihydroxyindole derivative according to formula (I) or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, wherein, each independently, R 1 represents hydrogen, a C1-C4 alkyl group or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group, R 2 hydrogen or a -COOH group, where the -COOH group can also be present as a salt with a physiologically acceptable cation, R 3 represents hydrogen or a C1-C4 alkyl group, R 4 Hydrogen, a C1-C4 alkyl group, an amino group or a group - COR 6 means in the R 6 a C1-C4 alkyl group, and R 5 one of the under R 4 mentioned groups. [3] Cosmetic formulation according to claim 1, wherein the dye precursor is an indoline derivative, in particular a 5,6-dihydroxyindoline derivative according to formula (II) or a physiologically acceptable salt thereof, wherein, each independently, R 1 represents hydrogen, a C1-C4 alkyl group or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group, R 2 hydrogen or a -COOH group, where the -COOH group can also be present as a salt with a physiologically acceptable cation, R 3 represents hydrogen or a C1-C4 alkyl group, R 4 Hydrogen, a C1-C4 alkyl group, an amino group or a group - COR 6 means in the R 6 a C1-C4 alkyl group, and R 5 one of the under R 4 mentioned groups. [4] Cosmetic formulation according to one of the preceding claims, wherein component (i) makes up 0.01-0.5 wt.%, preferably 0.05-0.2 wt.%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic formulation. [5] Cosmetic formulation according to one of the preceding claims, wherein component (ii) is a quaternary ammonium compound having an N-bonded aliphatic, preferably unbranched, hydrocarbon radical having 10-23 carbon atoms and component (ii) preferably makes up 0.1-10 wt.%, more preferably 1-5 wt.%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic formulation. [6] A cosmetic formulation according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the aliphatic hydrocarbon in component (iii) has 10-24 unbranched carbon atoms and is substituted by -OH or -COOR, where R is H or a physiologically acceptable cation, such as Na or K. [7] Cosmetic formulation according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the formulation has a pH in the range of pH 4-9, preferably 5-8, more preferably 6-7.

5. [8] Cosmetic formulation according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising (iv) at least one direct dye, such as a nitrophenylenediamine, nitroaminophenol, nitro dye, azo dye, anthraquinone or indophenol, wherein component (iv) preferably makes up 0.001-3% by weight based on the total mass of the cosmetic formulation. [9] Kit comprehensive (a) a cosmetic formulation according to any one of claims 1-8 and (b) a cosmetic formulation which in particular contains at least one xanthine derivative and / or a dye precursor, such as an indoline derivative or indole derivative.