Makeup system and its uses

Abstract

Comprehensive makeup system: - a water-free cosmetic preparation and - a makeup device for applying the cosmetic preparation, wherein the makeup device comprises a capillary system through which the cosmetic preparation is conveyed during intended use of the makeup system, wherein the cosmetic preparation in the capillary system comprises at least a liquid phase and a particle phase is dispersed as a phase in the liquid phase, wherein the particle phase comprises at least a coloring substance and / or a filler, and wherein the liquid phase comprises at least one oil-based carrier.

Description

[0001] The invention relates to a makeup system comprising a cosmetic preparation and a makeup device comprising a capillary system, as well as uses of the makeup system.

[0002] Devices with capillary systems for applying inks in the broadest sense, for example in the form of pens, have long been known. Exemplary devices with capillary systems are disclosed, for example, in DE 4331031 A1 or DE 10202681 A1. A problem with the use of capillary systems intended for storing and / or transporting inks is that the mass to be stored or transported must be sufficiently low in viscosity to have sufficient flowability to be transported through the capillary reservoir. Only water-based inks are known for this purpose. However, these have several disadvantages.

[0003] Firstly, water-based inks can cause a phenomenon known as "staining" when using water-soluble dyes, meaning that dissolved components of the dye penetrate the skin. Secondly, the water resistance of water-based inks is not always sufficient. To improve water resistance, synthetic film-forming substances are often used, which, however, reduce the naturalness of the preparation. Furthermore, water-based inks require a high degree of preservation to prevent microbial formation and growth. In addition, the incorporation of conditioning agents is limited to water-soluble substances, making preparations with a high level of conditioning virtually impossible.

[0004] Furthermore, the use of a capillary system presents additional problems. Firstly, the cosmetic preparation must have very good stability to prevent separation, which inevitably leads to clogging of the capillary system and, consequently, to poor application results, if any at all. Secondly, adjusting the viscosity of the cosmetic preparation is problematic. If it is set higher to prevent particles from settling in the ink, the ink's transport capacity in the capillary system is reduced. If the viscosity is set too low, the settling phenomenon described above occurs, which can also secondarily lead to clogging of the capillary system.

[0005] Based on this prior art, it is an object of the present invention to provide a makeup system comprising a makeup device for applying a cosmetic preparation with a capillary system, wherein the cosmetic preparation is characterized by good stability, high water resistance, and a low tendency to stain. Furthermore, it is an object of the present invention to specify uses of the makeup system.

[0006] The independent claims address these problems. The dependent claims contain advantageous further developments and embodiments of the invention.

[0007] Accordingly, the task is solved by a makeup system comprising a cosmetic preparation and a makeup device for applying the cosmetic preparation, wherein the makeup device includes a capillary system.

[0008] The capillary system is essentially unlimited and can serve for storage (including so-called capillary storage systems with, for example, tampon reservoirs), intermediate storage (including so-called free-ink systems, in which the capillary system serves to temporarily store ink to be drawn from a cartridge or tank, e.g., by means of a disk storage system), and / or application (including fountain pens in conventional fountain pens or felt-tip pens with felted application tips, or also flocked tips, sintered tips, brush tips, fiber tips, or sponge-like tips) of the cosmetic preparation. It is essential that, during the intended use of the makeup device, the cosmetic preparation is stored, conveyed, or guided by the capillary system, or moves through it.

[0009] Unless otherwise stated, the raw materials disclosed herein are identified by their INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients).

[0010] The makeup application device according to the invention can, for example, be in the form of a pen, with an applicator and the capillary system for storing, transporting, and / or applying the cosmetic preparation. Exemplary devices with a capillary system that can be used for the present invention are disclosed, for example, in DE 4331031 A1 or DE 10202681 A1. However, in principle, any makeup application device that includes a capillary system, as exemplified above, can be used.

[0011] The application device of the makeup device is not limited in its specific form and is not strictly necessary for providing the cosmetic preparation within the device. However, to facilitate the application of the cosmetic preparation, the makeup device may also include an applicator, which may be designed, for example, as a fiber tip, a ball system, or, if the applicator has a capillary system, as a felted, flocked, sintered, brush, fiber, or sponge-like applicator, or similar. The applicator does not have to be a permanent component of the makeup device but can be selectively attached to it.

[0012] In the makeup system according to the invention, the cosmetic preparation passes through the capillary system during intended use and can either be stored there, transported through it or applied from there; in any case, the cosmetic preparation is transported or conveyed through the capillary system and passes through the capillary system.

[0013] The cosmetic preparation comprises a liquid phase and a particle phase. The particle phase is dispersed within the liquid phase and is formulated to be either sediment-stable or redispersible, so that, at least after redispersion (e.g., by shaking the makeup system), the dispersed phase is evenly distributed within the liquid phase. If the cosmetic preparation is contained within a capillary storage system, compartmentalization of the individual volume elements prevents large-volume settling. If the cosmetic preparation is contained within a non-capillary mass storage system and is merely transported, conveyed, and / or applied via a capillary system, the cosmetic preparation in the mass storage system, if not sediment-stable, is at least easily redispersible.

[0014] The liquid phase is anhydrous. This means that no water is added to the cosmetic preparation. The water content is therefore less than 1% by mass based on the total mass of the cosmetic preparation and is preferably 0% by mass.

[0015] The liquid phase comprises at least one oil-based carrier. For the purposes of this invention, an oil-based carrier is understood to be any hydrophobic substance that is liquid at 25°C and an ambient pressure of 1 bar and is immiscible with water. The oil-based carrier is therefore not water-soluble, i.e., it has a water solubility of less than 0.01 g / L in water at 25°C.

[0016] An oil-based carrier can be used alone, or two or more oil-based carriers can be used in combination, allowing for particularly precise adjustment of the application and wear properties of the cosmetic preparation. Unless otherwise specified, any information regarding the oil-based carrier below applies to all oil-based carriers used according to the invention.

[0017] The liquid phase is a single-phase or multi-phase anhydrous matrix, and in particular a single-phase system in which the raw materials, with the exception of the particulate raw materials (coloring substances and fillers), are homogeneously distributed. In any case, classic W / O emulsions, O / W emulsions, and W / O / W emulsions are excluded from the scope of protection simply because the cosmetic preparation according to the invention is anhydrous.

[0018] When using, for example, silicone oils in combination with hydrocarbon-based oils, two or more phases may form, but these are dispersed so well that no separations or phase separation occur.

[0019] The particle phase comprises at least one coloring substance or at least one particulate filler and may also comprise a combination of one or more coloring substances with one or more fillers. Where coloring substance and / or filler are mentioned below, all references to coloring substances and / or fillers refer to all such substances or fillers unless otherwise specified.

[0020] Coloring substances within the meaning of the invention are not specifically limited and include all types of pigments, i.e., coloring substances insoluble in the matrix, as well as oil-soluble or water-soluble dyes. By using one or more coloring substances, a coloring cosmetic preparation can be provided that enables uniform and opaque coloring of the application area. Because the cosmetic preparation is anhydrous, it is also possible to use water-soluble dyes or pigments that are partially solubilized in water. The oil-based carrier prevents the coloring substances from being absorbed onto the skin and from penetrating it by encapsulating them. They are therefore not released from the cosmetic preparation.This allows for a particularly wide variety of colors for cosmetic preparation without the adverse effect of staining.

[0021] For the purposes of the present invention, fillers are understood to be all particulate substances that have no inherent color and are therefore usually used in the form of white powders. Examples include dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, nylon, silica, talc, alumina, kaolin, mica, polymethyl methacrylate, and others. Fillers can be selected particularly based on their haptic properties.

[0022] It has been surprisingly found that anhydrous, oil-based cosmetic preparations containing colorants and / or fillers are sufficiently stable in themselves, even without the addition of wetting agents or stabilizers such as surfactants or emulsifiers, to be stored, pumped, or transported in a capillary system without degradation. A person skilled in the art can easily adjust the viscosity of the cosmetic preparation depending on the capillary system used, for example, by adjusting the amount of oil-based carrier and / or the amount of colorant or filler. Waxes (vegetable, animal, or synthetic, as well as (petroleum-based) hydrocarbons) with a melting range of 35°C to 95°C can also be used to adjust the viscosity.

[0023] Because the cosmetic preparation is anhydrous and contains at least one oil-based carrier, it is generally not necessary to add a preservative, so the cosmetic preparation is characterized by high skin and mucous membrane compatibility due to a lower irritant potential compared to preparations containing preservatives.

[0024] Because the cosmetic preparation contains no water and is therefore oil-based, it also exhibits natural water resistance without the use of film-forming agents. Water dripping onto the cosmetic preparation simply beads up on its surface without washing off any of the preparation.

[0025] The makeup system according to the invention is therefore ideally suited for the permanent makeup application to skin, mucous membranes, semi-mucous membranes or keratinous fibers, without penetrating any skin areas and permanently coloring them, while naturally achieving high water resistance and thus also very good permanent application.

[0026] To increase the color density and thus improve the color intensity of the cosmetic preparation, or to improve the sensory and / or haptic properties of the cosmetic preparation, the amount of coloring agent and / or filler, based on the total mass of the cosmetic preparation, is preferably 5 to 40% by mass, in particular 8 to 35% by mass, and in particular 9 to 30% by mass. If two or more coloring agents and / or two or more fillers are used, the above quantities refer to the total mass of all coloring agents and fillers used in the cosmetic preparation.

[0027] Amounts of coloring agent below 5% by mass produce a translucent color effect, suitable for applications such as blush. Even smaller amounts of coloring agents can be effectively combined with fillers to a total mass of at least 5% by mass. Combining these with one or more fillers can result in a very pleasant application experience.

[0028] However, the makeup system is also suitable for applying lines of varying widths with a good, opaque layer of color. For this purpose, it is advantageous if the amount of coloring agent is at least 5% by mass, and especially at least 8 or 9% by mass.

[0029] Amounts of coloring agent or filler exceeding 40% by mass can impair the viscosity and thus the flow properties of the cosmetic preparation in the capillary system and are therefore less preferred. For the sake of good and uniform color payoff, as well as very good haptic and application properties, amounts of coloring agent and / or filler of 8 to 35% by mass, and especially 9 to 30% by mass, are particularly preferred. The coloring agents and fillers used are essentially unrestricted, but should be usable in the respective jurisdiction where the cosmetics are intended for use.

[0030] As described above, the oil-based carrier is essentially unlimited. Particularly advantageous in light of high water resistance and a reduced staining effect are volatile hydrocarbons, vegetable oils, synthetic oils, petroleum-based oils, and silicone oils as oil-based carriers, which can be used individually or in any combination.

[0031] Volatile hydrocarbons include, for example, short-chain linear and branched hydrocarbons, isododecanes, isoparaffin, and C9-12 alkanes. For the purposes of this invention, "volatile" refers to substances that evaporate at 25°C and an atmospheric pressure of 1 bar. Vegetable oils include any type of vegetable oil, such as walnut oil, rapeseed oil, castor oil, jojoba oil (INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil), and the like. These include, for example, ester oils such as myristyl myristate and isopropyl myristate, which may also be semi-synthetic. Petroleum-based oils include paraffin oils or polymeric oils, such as long-chain linear hydrocarbons, (hydrogenated) polybutenes, and (hydrogenated) polyisobutenes, which are non-volatile and therefore remain on the application site. Silicone oils encompass all types of silicone oils, including cyclic, linear, and branched silicone oils. These can be volatile, such as...Disiloxanes, trisiloxanes, cyclotetrasiloxanes, cyclopentasiloxanes and cyclohexasiloxanes, or non-volatile substances such as dimethicone.

[0032] By appropriately combining two or more oil-based carriers, the application and wear properties of the cosmetic preparation, as well as its stability, can be precisely controlled. For lip makeup, in particular, non-volatile oil-based carriers have proven advantageous, as they provide a lasting moisturizing effect that is very pleasant on the lips. For eye makeup, oil-based carriers containing a high proportion of volatile substances have proven especially beneficial, as this improves the product's longevity at the application site and reduces the likelihood of the cosmetic preparation slipping or running, for example, into the eyelid crease.

[0033] To improve the flow properties of the cosmetic preparation in the capillary system, the amount of oil-based carrier, based on the total mass of the preparation, is preferably 20 to 80% by mass, particularly 25 to 75% by mass, and especially 30 to 70% by mass. The appropriate amount can be easily determined by a person skilled in the art through routine tests. This amount depends on the quantity of coloring agent and / or filler used. Amounts of oil-based carrier of 25 to 75% by mass or 30 to 70% by mass are very well suited for quantities of coloring agent and / or filler of 8 to 35% by mass and 9 to 30% by mass, respectively.

[0034] As already illustrated above with examples of ocular applications, the oil-based carrier for improving the stability of the cosmetic preparation at the application site comprises at least one volatile oil-based carrier. An oil-based volatile carrier is defined as any water-insoluble or water-immiscible substance (this includes substances with a solubility in water of < 0.1 g / L at 25 °C, such as disiloxanes, which have a solubility in water at 25 °C of < 0.001 g / L, or isododecanes, which have a solubility in water at 25 °C of < 0.0001 g / L) that evaporates at 25 °C and an atmospheric pressure of 1 bar. After a drying time of approximately 5 minutes, at least 80% by mass of the volatile oil-based carrier should have evaporated and thus no longer be present in significant proportions in the remaining cosmetic preparation.This is sufficient to achieve a long-lasting application, which is particularly important for cosmetic preparations with a high coloring content.

[0035] For a durable application without slipping, smearing, or migration of the cosmetic preparation from the application site, the amount of volatile oil-based carrier, based on the total mass of the oil-based carrier, is preferably at least 30% by mass, particularly at least 40% by mass, and especially at least 50% by mass. The higher the proportion of volatile oil-based carrier, the better the cosmetic preparation adheres to the application site; however, the less emollient it is. Amounts of up to 90% by mass of volatile oil-based carrier, based on the total mass of the oil-based carrier, therefore represent a very good compromise between good adhesion and good wearability of the cosmetic preparation.

[0036] To improve the stability of the cosmetic preparation before application, especially during storage or in the capillary reservoir, in order to better prevent, avoid, or at least enable simple redispersion of the particle phase in the oil-based carrier, the cosmetic preparation advantageously contains at least one emulsifier.

[0037] An emulsifier according to the present invention is a substance comprising a polar and a nonpolar component. The emulsifier is soluble in the oil-soluble carrier at 25°C and an atmospheric pressure of 1 bar and is preferably also liquid under these conditions. Preferably, one emulsifier alone or two or more emulsifiers in combination may be used. The nonpolar component is essentially unlimited and may, for example, be a silicone residue (dimethicone, polydimethylsiloxane, each substituted or unsubstituted), a fatty acid residue, a fatty alcohol residue, or a linear or branched hydrocarbon residue. The polar component preferably comprises, in particular, a polyethylene oxide residue and / or a polypropylene oxide residue and / or a glyceryl residue and / or a sorbitan residue. Several of these residues and combinations of substances with these residues may also be used.The polar residues can also be substituted with polar groups, such as hydroxide groups, carboxyl groups, amino groups, or carbonyl groups. Crucially, the combination of polar and nonpolar components in the emulsifier forms a substance that is soluble in the oil-based carrier used at 25°C and an atmospheric pressure of 1 bar, meaning it does not form a separate phase. The nonpolar component ensures that the emulsifier is very well and homogeneously distributed and "anchored" within the cosmetic preparation. The polar component effectively stabilizes the particle phase, preventing colorants and fillers from settling in the cosmetic preparation or allowing them to be easily redispersed.This not only improves the transport and storage properties of the cosmetic preparation in the capillary system, but also allows for a more uniform application of the cosmetic preparation, which leads to a uniform color release and coloring at the application site, especially when using coloring substances.

[0038] Due to its very good stabilizing properties in cosmetic preparations, the emulsifier is preferably selected from the group consisting of: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Aminomethicone Glycerocarbamate, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaisostearate, PEG / PPG-20 / 15 Dimethicone+Diisopropyl Adipate and mixtures thereof.

[0039] The amount of emulsifier is essentially unlimited. To effectively prevent irritation at the application site, the proportion of emulsifier in the cosmetic preparation should preferably be as low as possible. A very good compromise between stabilizing properties and the lowest possible irritation potential is achieved when the amount of emulsifier, based on the total mass of the cosmetic preparation, is 1 to 15% by mass, particularly 2 to 12% by mass, and especially 2.5 to 10% by mass. A proportion of 1 to 15% by mass of emulsifier is perfectly adequate for a coloring agent and / or filler content of 5 to 40% by mass.

[0040] To improve the water resistance and adhesive properties of the cosmetic preparation at the application site, the cosmetic preparation preferably contains at least one oil-soluble or oil-dispersible film-forming substance. For the purposes of this invention, an oil-soluble or oil-dispersible substance is understood to be one that is soluble in the oil-soluble carrier at 25°C and an atmospheric pressure of 1 bar, or at least dispersible to such an extent that no two separate phases are formed, but rather the oil-soluble or oil-dispersible film-forming substance is uniformly distributed in the oil-based carrier. Preferably, the oil-soluble or oil-dispersible film-forming substance is soluble in the oil-based carrier under the specified conditions.Regarding the film-forming properties, a person skilled in the art can inquire about suitable substances via the reported function (film former) at the CTFA (Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association) or the Personal Care Products Council. Among the suitable film-forming substances used according to the invention are both waxes and polymeric substances.

[0041] Due to their excellent film-forming properties, the following oil-soluble or oil-dispersible film-forming substances are preferred: Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax, Trimethylsiloxysilicate and Acrylates / Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer, and any mixtures thereof. These substances not only improve water resistance but also the adhesive properties of the cosmetic preparation at the application site.

[0042] To further improve the film-forming properties of the cosmetic preparation, the amount of oil-soluble or oil-dispersible film-forming substance, based on the total mass of the cosmetic preparation, is preferably 5 to 40% by mass, particularly 7 to 35% by mass, and especially 9 to 30% by mass. Even small amounts of 5% by mass can be sufficient to produce a smooth yet durable film without a tendency to crack. This applies particularly to film-forming agents that form hard films, such as trimethylsiloxysilicates. High amounts of at least 7% by mass or even at least 9% by mass are particularly suitable for applications around the eyes, or when the cosmetic preparation is intended to be applied only as a line, as with eyeliner or lip liner, and not over the entire surface, as with eyeshadow or lipstick. In these cases, amounts of up to 40% by mass can be used effectively.

[0043] The cosmetic preparation used for the makeup system according to the invention is particularly well suited for conditioning cosmetic preparations due to its proportion of oil-based carrier. Preferably, the cosmetic preparation therefore further comprises at least one oil-soluble or oil-dispersible conditioning substance, such as emollients, active ingredients, and vitamins.

[0044] To adjust the flow properties of the cosmetic preparation, it preferably contains at least one thickening agent. Particularly suitable thickening agents are, for example, layered silicates such as hectorite or bentonite.

[0045] A further advantage is that the cosmetic preparation is free of preservatives. Preservatives are defined as substances listed as having a "reported function" with the CTFA (Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association) or the Personal Care Products Council. Because the cosmetic preparation is water-free, it can preferably be formulated without preservatives without being subject to significant microbial growth or proliferation.

[0046] The cosmetic preparation may include, in addition to the essential components of the invention, further cosmetic raw materials as additives, provided that these do not impair the advantageous effects achieved with the makeup system according to the invention.

[0047] As described above, the specific composition of the cosmetic preparation is not restricted, provided the cosmetic preparation is anhydrous. For stability reasons, and in particular to prevent clogging of the capillary reservoir, the liquid phase of the cosmetic preparation in the capillary system is preferably in the form of a single-phase liquid phase. This single-phase liquid phase is oil-based, and the particle phase is dispersed within this liquid phase. The cosmetic preparation thus comprises exclusively a homogeneous, anhydrous liquid phase, within which a dispersed phase, comprising at least one coloring agent and / or a filler, is dispersed.

[0048] Furthermore, the invention also describes the use of the makeup system described above for applying makeup to hair and / or skin and / or mucous membranes and / or semi-mucous membranes. This allows these application areas to be made up particularly evenly, resulting in both very good color coverage and pleasant sensory properties. The makeup device allows, in particular, for a good application without thinning of the drawn line, which is due to the stability, and especially the settling and separation stability, of the cosmetic preparation in the capillary system.

[0049] The invention also discloses the use of the above-described makeup system as an eyeliner, browliner, or lipliner. Application as an eyeliner or browliner, in combination with a makeup device with a capillary system, has proven particularly advantageous, as it allows for the application of exceptionally even, strong, and color-covering lines without the need to separately moisten an applicator with cosmetic preparation. The cosmetic preparation flows automatically from the capillary system and can effectively moisten an applicator for application to the desired area. Examples

[0050] The following invention is described in detail with reference to examples, although the invention is not to be limited to the examples.

[0051] The examples are further explained using the drawing. It shows: Fig. 1 a makeup system according to an embodiment of the invention.

[0052] Fig. Figure 1 shows an exemplary schematic makeup system 100 according to an embodiment of the invention. The makeup system 100 comprises a makeup device 10, which includes a sleeve 1 in which a capillary system 6 and a fiber tip 5 are arranged. A seal 4 in a protective cap 3 protects the makeup device from drying out a cosmetic preparation 7, which is stored in the capillary system 6 and transported from there via the fiber tip 5 for application. An end cap 2 provides protection against drying out over the rear area of ​​the makeup device 10.

[0053] The corresponding examples (cosmetic preparations) were produced from the raw materials listed in the table below by stirring and subsequent homogenization at room temperature using an Ultraturrax (rotor-stator homogenizer).

[0054] The cosmetic preparations were evaluated after production according to the following test procedure.

[0055] To assess the cosmetic preparations, each preparation was applied in the form of a square area with a side length of 3 cm to a thoroughly cleaned and subsequently dried forearm of a test subject and left to dry for 30 minutes at room temperature (25°C). Water resistance

[0056] To determine water resistance, the individual dried preparation squares were rinsed with running water at a temperature of 30°C ± 1°C. The nozzle diameter of the water line from which the water was drawn was 6 mm, and a water flow rate of 3.2 l / min was maintained. The distance between the nozzle and the preparation squares was 10 cm. The water rinse lasted 5 minutes. The preparation squares were then patted dry with white cellulose paper.

[0057] A visual assessment was carried out: 1 = waterproof (no thinning / washing of the preparation observed) 2 = partially waterproof (slight thinning / washing of the preparation is noticeable) 3 = not waterproof (significant thinning / washing of the preparation is noticeable) Transfer strength

[0058] To determine the transfer strength, a white cellulose paper was printed onto each dried preparation square for 10 seconds after the water resistance test had been carried out.

[0059] A visual assessment was carried out: 1 = transfer-resistant (no residue of the preparation on the cellulose paper) 2 = partially transferable (slight residues of the preparation remain on the cellulose paper) 3 = not transfer-resistant (heavy residue of the preparation on the cellulose paper) smudge resistance

[0060] To determine the wipe strength, after determining the transfer strength, a dry finger was used to rub each dried preparation square once.

[0061] A visual assessment was carried out: 1 = smudge-proof (no visible smudges) 2 = partially smudge-proof (slight smudges visible) 3 = not smudge-proof (strong smudges are visible) ink flow

[0062] The cosmetic preparation was filled into a final pen and stored vertically at room temperature (25°C) with the applicator pointing downwards for 24 hours.

[0063] Then a line approximately 3cm long was applied to paper and to skin.

[0064] A visual assessment was carried out: 1 = good (even and homogeneous delivery) 2 = satisfactory (less uniform and / or homogeneous delivery) 3 = bad (uneven and inhomogeneous delivery) Example 1 [Mass%] Example 2 [Mass %] Example 3 [Mass %] Example 4 [Mass %] Example 5 [Mass %] INCI function C9-12 alkanes Oil-based carrier 44,00 - 35,00 - - Isododecane Oil-based carrier 15,00 - - 50,80 46,00 Cyclopentasiloxane Oil-based carrier - 11,6 - - - Dimethicone 10cst Oil-based carrier - 4,10 - - 3,00 Acrylates / PolytrimethylsiloxymethacrylateCopolymer Filmmaker 10,00 0,40 - - - Trisiloxane Oil-based carrier - 35,40 - - - Silica filler - 0,20 - - - Helianthus Annuus(Sunflower) SeedWax Filmmaker - - 0,30 - - Trimethylsiloxysilicate Filmmaker - 11,00 28,00 25,00 25,00 CI 45410 Organic dye - - - - 2,00 Iron Oxides 77491 / 77492 / 77499 Coloring substance - - 26,95 7,90 - Chromium Oxide Greens CI77288 Coloring substance - 21,00 - - - Titanium Dioxide Cl77891 Coloring substance 20,00 6,90 - - 14,00 Ferric Ferrocyanide 77510 - - - 7,30 3,00 kaolin filler - - 1,00 - 1,00 Blue 1 Lake Coloring substance 5,00 - - - - TrimethylsiloxyphenylDimethicone 1000cst filler - - - 3,00 3,00 Dimethicone 1000000 cSt Gloss booster - - - 3,00 - Dimethicone / VinylDimethiconeCrosspolymer filler - 0,40 - - - Polyglyceryl-2Oleate,PolyhydroxystearicAcid, Polyglyceryl-2Stearate Emulsifier 3,00 - - - - PEG / PPG-20 / 15Dimethicone+Diisopropyl Adipate Emulsifier - 4,50 - - - PEG-10 Dimethicone Emulsifier - 1,50 - - - Polyglyceryl-10Pentaisostearate Emulsifier - - 3,50 - - Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / BehenyI Dimer Dilinoleate Emulsifier - - 2,00 - - AminodimethiconeGlvcerocarbamate Emulsifier - 3,00 - - - Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil Oil-based carrier - - 3,00 3,00 3,00 Propylene carbonate Activator for thickening agents 0,50 - - - - Disteardimonium Hectorite Thickener 1,50 - - - - Phenylpropanol preservation 1,00 - - - - Tocopherol Antioxidant - - 0,25 - - sum 100% 100% 100% 100% 100%

[0065] All cosmetic preparations of the examples according to the invention showed very good settling stability and redispersibility. They could be very well incorporated into a makeup applicator, such as in Fig. 1 shown, filled and showed no separation after storage of 40 weeks at room temperature.

[0066] The application of color from the makeup device was even, intensely colored and without streaks, which also indicated a homogeneous cosmetic preparation.

[0067] The water resistance of the cosmetic preparations was determined. None of the preparations showed any color fading, running, or smearing on the back of the hand. Visual assessment of water resistance confirmed that all preparations were waterproof.

[0068] Furthermore, an attempt was subsequently made to wash off the applied preparations with soap to remove the cosmetic substances. No color residue was found on the forearm. Therefore, no staining occurred.

[0069] The following additional comparative examples were produced: Comparative example 1: INCI - EU function Value in mass % Aqua solvents 65,30 Methylpropanediol solvents 7,00 CI 77266 CarbonBlack color pigment 7,00 Styrene / Acrylates / AmmoniumMethacrylate Copolymer Filmmaker 4,08 Cellulose filler 4,00 Styrene / Acrylates Copolymer Filmmaker 5,30 PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Emulsifier 2,20 Coco-glucoside Emulsifier 1,27 Poloxamer 407 surfactant 1,10 Citric Acid pH regulator 0,95 Phenoxyethanol preservatives 0,70 Potassium Sorbate preservatives 0,48 Phenylpropanol preservatives 0,30 Sodium Benzoate preservatives 0,20 Caprylyl Glycol Preservation booster 0,03 Sodium Laureth-12 Sulfate surfactant 0,03 Sodium Lauryl Sulfate surfactant 0,03 Sodium dihydroacetate preservatives 0,03 sum 100,00 Comparative example 2: INCI - EU function Value in mass % Aqua solvents 71,92 Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer Filmmaker 9,00 Cl 77266 CarbonBlack color pigment 5,00 Pentylene Glycol solvents 4,00 Methylpropanediol solvents 3,00 Acrylates / DimethylaminoethylMethacrylate Copolymer Filmmaker 2,28 Laureth-21 Emulsifier 1,50 Caprylyl Glycol Preservation booster 0,75 Phenylpropanol preservatives 0,70 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Emulsifier 0,60 Sodium Laureth-12 Sulfate surfactant 0,48 Phenoxyethanol preservatives 0,40 C11-15 Pareth-7 surfactant 0,19 Butylene Glycol solvents 0,08 Sodium dihydroacetate preservatives 0,06 Potassium Sorbate preservatives 0,04 sum 100,00

[0070] Comparative examples 1 and 2 were prepared by heating the solvents and surfactants to approximately 60 °C and stirring them together. The colorants were then added, and the mixtures were homogenized for 1 minute using an Ultraturrax. The mixtures were then cooled to approximately 40 °C, the film formers and preservatives, as well as any preservative boosters, were added, and the mixtures were stirred again until homogeneous. Finally, the finished preparations were cooled to room temperature.

[0071] Examples 1 and 2 are commercially available water-based, film-forming “waterproof” eyeliners.

[0072] To determine water resistance, the preparations of Examples 4 and 5 and of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 were applied to a forearm as described above and then rinsed with water according to the test protocol. A smudge resistance test was also performed.

[0073] Result: Examples 4 and 5 according to the invention remained almost unchanged on the forearm, while comparison examples 1 and 2 showed significant abrasion and thus loss of the cosmetic preparation at the application area.

[0074] To assess the staining, another comparative example 3 was produced: INCI - EU function Value in mass % Aqua solvents 59,25 CI 77891 pigment 14,00 Styrene / Acrylates / AmmoniumMethacrylate Copolymer Filmmaker 7,80 Methylpropanediol solvents 5,00 CI 77510 pigment 3,00 Poloxamer 407 surfactant 2,00 PPG-70 Tocophereth-100 Emulsifier 2,00 Coco-glucoside Emulsifier 1,56 Cl 45410 Organ. Dye. 1,50 kaolin filler 1,30 Phenoxyethanol preservatives 0,90 Butylene Glycol solvents 0,60 Potassium Sorbate preservatives 0,47 Sodium Laureth-12 Sulfate surfactant 0,24 Sodium Benzoate preservatives 0,20 Citric Acid pH regulator 0,18 sum 100,00

[0075] Comparison example 3 is a commercially available “waterproof” eyeliner with film former, containing an organic dye.

[0076] A water resistance test and a wipe resistance test were performed again.

[0077] Result: In comparative example 3, the dye was partially washed off or caused a staining effect on the skin. The color differed significantly (changing from blue to pink) from the original application. The color impression of example 5 according to the invention remained unchanged.

[0078] In addition, the following test series were carried out: A. Experimental series with film formers Experiment series 1: Trimethylsiloxysilicate 1A 1B 1C 1D=Example4 1E INCI (Type) function Isododecane Oil-based carrier 75,80 70,80 67,80 50,80 35,80 Trimethylsiloxysilicate Filmmaker 0,00 5,00 8,00 25,00 40,00 Iron Oxides 77491 / 77492 / 77499 Coloring substance 7,90 7,90 7,90 7,90 7,90 Ferric Ferrocyanide 77510 Coloring substance 7,30 7,30 7,30 7,30 7,30 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone 1000cst Gloss booster 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 Dimethicone 1000000 cSt Gloss booster 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil Oil-based carrier 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 sum 100,00 100,00 100,00 100,00 100,00 Water resistance 1 1 1 1 1 Transfer strength 1 1 1 1 1 Smudge resistance 3 1 1 1 1 Ink flow on paper (capillary systems: fiber tip / fiber reservoir) 3 1 1 1 1 Ink flow on skin (capillary systems: fiber tip / fiber reservoir) 3 1 1 1 1 Ink flow on skin (capillary system: fiber tip only) 2 - - - - Experiment series 2, Acrylates / Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer 2A 2B 2C 2D 2E INCI (Type) function Isododecane Oil-based carrier 75,80 70,80 67,80 50,80 45,48 Acrylates / PolytrimethylsiloxymethacrylateCopolymer Filmmaker 0,00 5,00 8,00 25,00 30,32 Iron Oxides 77491 / 77492 / 77499 Coloring substance 7,90 7,90 7,90 7,90 7,90 Ferric Ferrocyanide 77510 Coloring substance 7,30 7,30 7,30 7,30 7,30 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone 1000cst Gloss booster 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 Dimethicone 1000000 cSt Gloss booster 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil Oil-based carrier 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 sum 100,00 100,00 100,00 100,00 100,00 Water resistance 1 1 1 1 2 Transfer strength 1 1 1 1 1 Smudge resistance 2 1 1 1 1 Experiment series 3, polymethylsilsesquioxane 3A 3B 3C 3D 3E INCI (Type) function Isododecane Oil-based carrier 75,80 70,80 67,80 50,80 26,53 Polymethylsilsesquioxane Filmmaker 0,00 5,00 8,00 25,00 49,27 Iron Oxides 77491 / 77492 / 77499 Coloring substance 7,90 7,90 7,90 7,90 7,90 Ferric Ferrocyanide 77510 Coloring substance 7,30 7,30 7,30 7,30 7,30 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone 1000cst Gloss booster 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 Dimethicone 1000000 cSt Gloss booster 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil Oil-based carrier 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 sum 100,00 100,00 100,00 100,00 100,00 Water resistance 1 1 1 1 1 Transfer strength 1 1 1 2 2 Smudge resistance 3 3 3 3 3 Test series 4, Bis Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone / SMDI Copolymer 4A 4B 4C 4D 4E INCI (Type) function Isododecane Oil-based carrier 75,80 70,80 67,80 50,80 45,48 Bis Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone / SMDI Copolymer Filmmaker 0,00 5,00 8,00 25,00 30,32 Iron Oxides 77491 / 77492 / 77499 Coloring substance 7,90 7,90 7,90 7,90 7,90 Ferric Ferrocyanide 77510 Coloring substance 7,30 7,30 7,30 7,30 7,30 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone 1000cst Gloss booster 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 Dimethicone 1000000 cSt Gloss booster 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil Oil-based carrier 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 sum 100,00 100,00 100,00 100,00 100,00 Water resistance 1 1 1 1 1 Transfer strength 2 1 1 2 2 Smudge resistance 3 3 3 2 2 Experiment series 5, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax 5A 5B 5C 5D 5E INCI (Type) function Isododecane Oil-based carrier 75,80 75,30 74,80 72,80 70,80 Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax Filmmaker 0,00 0,50 1,00 3,00 5,00 Iron Oxides 77491 / 77492 / 77499 Coloring substance 7,90 7,90 7,90 7,90 7,90 Ferric Ferrocyanide 77510 Coloring substance 7,30 7,30 7,30 7,30 7,30 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone 1000cst Gloss booster 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 Dimethicone 1000000 cSt Gloss booster 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil Oil-based carrier 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 sum 100,00 100,00 100,00 100,00 100,00 Water resistance 1 1 1 1 1 Transfer strength 2 2 1 1 1 Smudge resistance 3 3 3 2 2

[0079] The cosmetic preparations of Examples 1A, 1B, 1C and 1E, 2A to 2E, 3A to 3E, 4A to 4E and 5A to 5E were prepared analogously to Examples 1 to 3. Cosmetic preparation 1D corresponded to the cosmetic preparation from Example 4.

[0080] The results of the tests performed can be found in the tables above.

[0081] All trials in series 1-5 showed excellent water resistance even without the use of film-forming agents (trials 1A=2A=3A=4A=5A). This demonstrates the beneficial effect of an anhydrous cosmetic preparation using an oil-based carrier.

[0082] Test 2E demonstrates that too much film former can negatively affect water resistance, as the applied film becomes too thick and inflexible and can therefore be partially detached by the water jet.

[0083] The transfer strength was already satisfactory without film former, but could be further improved by adding small amounts of film former.

[0084] Here too, the use of too much film-forming agent had a partially negative effect, as the drying time was insufficient due to the increased layer thickness (see experiments 3D, 3E, 4D and 4E). This negative effect did not occur with the particularly favored film-forming agents trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) and acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer (silicone acrylate).

[0085] The use of Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax also had a positive effect on the transfer strength (see test 5A < 5B < 5C=5D=5E).

[0086] The smudge resistance could also be significantly increased by selecting a suitable film former. For TMS and silicone acrylate, 5% and 8% by mass, respectively, were sufficient (see tests 1B, 2C).

[0087] With sunflower wax, the improvement in wipe resistance was not as significant, but still quite satisfactory.

[0088] The use of sunflower wax, even at the smallest amounts of 0.5% by mass, showed a significantly reduced tendency to run into skin wrinkles (see test 5A vs. test 5B). In other words, the use of sunflower wax improved contour retention. B. Experimental series with emulsifiers Test series 6, emulsifier 6A 6B Example 3 INCI (Type) function C9-12 alkanes Oil-based carrier 35,00 38,50 Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax Filmmaker 0,30 0,30 Trimethylsiloxy-silicate Filmmaker 28,00 28,00 Iron Oxides 77491 / 77492 / 77499 Coloring substance 26,95 26,95 kaolin filler 1,00 1,00 Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaisostearate Emulsifier 3,50 0,00 Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / BehenylDimer Dilinoleate Thickener 2,00 2,00 Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil Oil-based carrier 3,00 3,00 Tocopherol Antioxidant 0,25 0,25 sum 100,00 100,00 Water resistance 1 1 Transfer strength 1 1 Smudge resistance 1 1 Ink flow (capillary systems: fiber tip / fiber reservoir) 1 2 Test series 7, emulsifier mixture 1A 7A INCI (Type) function Isododecane Oil-based carrier 75,80 65,40 Iron Oxides 77491 / 77492 / 77499 Coloring substance 7,90 7,90 Ferric Ferrocyanide 77510 Coloring substance 7,30 7,90 Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaisostearate Emulsifier 0,00 4,80 Polyglyceryl-4Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate Emulsifier 0,00 5,00 Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone1000cst Gloss booster 3,00 3,00 Dimethicone 1000000 cSt Gloss booster 3,00 3,00 Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil Oil-based carrier 3,00 3,00 sum 100,00 100,00 Water resistance 1 1 Transfer strength 1 1 Smudge resistance 3 3 Ink flow (capillary systems: fiber tip / fiber reservoir) 3 1 Ink flow (capillary system: fiber tip with Free Ink System) 2 -

[0089] The cosmetic preparations of Examples 6A (corresponding to Example 3), 6B, 1A and 7A were manufactured analogously to Examples 1 to 5.

[0090] To assess the ink flow, the cosmetic preparations were filled into the following makeup devices as indicated in the tables: In the case of the examples presented, where an example was designated as "fiber tip / fiber reservoir", a makeup device was used in which the fiber reservoir consisted of PET fibers and had a density of 0.1 g / cm³. 3 had a fiber tip made of nylon fibers exhibiting a porosity of approximately 71%. Both the fiber tip and the fiber reservoir were capillary systems within the meaning of the present invention.

[0091] The examples showed that the ink flow can be positively influenced by the use of a suitable emulsifier system (see a comparison of experiment 1A vs. experiment 7A and experiment 6A vs. experiment 6B). Experiment 7A, with emulsifier in the fiber tip / fiber reservoir system, even exceeded the ink flow of a free-ink system, which is generally better suited for flow (ink is stored in a non-capillary volume in the makeup device, which serves as a reservoir; the fiber tip used was a capillary system and was comparable to the one in the "fiber tip / fiber reservoir" makeup device).

[0092] However, the experiments also showed that if a suitable film former is used, the emulsifier can be omitted (see a comparison of experiment 1A vs. experiment 1B).

[0093] In addition to the above written description of the invention, explicit reference is hereby made to the graphic representation of the invention in the figure for its supplementary disclosure. QUOTES INCLUDED IN THE DESCRIPTION

[0000] This list of documents cited by the applicant was automatically generated and is included solely for the reader's convenience. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA accepts no liability for any errors or omissions. Cited patent literature

[0000] DE 4331031 A1 [0002, 0010] DE 10202681 A1 [0002, 0010]

Claims

[1] Makeup system including: - a water-free cosmetic preparation and - a makeup device for applying the cosmetic preparation, wherein the makeup device comprises a capillary system through which the cosmetic preparation is conveyed during intended use of the makeup system, wherein the cosmetic preparation in the capillary system comprises at least a liquid phase and a particle phase is dispersed as a phase in the liquid phase, wherein the particle phase comprises at least a coloring substance and / or a filler, and wherein the liquid phase comprises at least one oil-based carrier. [2] Makeup system according to claim 1, wherein the amount of coloring substance and / or filler, based on the total mass of the cosmetic preparation, is 5 to 40% by mass, in particular 8 to 35% by mass and in particular 9 to 30% by mass. [3] Makeup system according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the oil-based carrier is at least one selected from volatile hydrocarbons, vegetable oils, synthetic oils, petroleum-based oils and silicone oils. [4] Makeup system according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of oil-based carrier, based on the total mass of the preparation, is 20 to 80% by mass, in particular 25 to 75% by mass and in particular 30 to 70% by mass. [5] Makeup system according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the oil-based carrier comprises at least one volatile oil-based carrier. [6] Makeup system according to claim 5, wherein the amount of volatile oil-based carrier, based on the total mass of the oil-based carrier, is at least 30% by mass, in particular at least 40% by mass and in particular at least 50% by mass. [7] Makeup system according to one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one emulsifier, wherein the emulsifier has a polar part and a non-polar part and the polar part in particular comprises a polyethylene oxide residue and / or a polypropylene oxide residue and / or a glyceryl residue and / or a sorbitan residue. [8] Makeup system according to claim 7, wherein the emulsifier is selected from the group consisting of: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Aminomethocone Glycerocarbamate, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaisostearate, PEG / PPG-20 / 15 Dimethicone+Diisopropyl Adipate and mixtures thereof. [9] Makeup system according to claim 7 or 8, wherein the amount of emulsifier, based on the total mass of the cosmetic preparation, is 1 to 15% by mass, in particular 2 to 12% by mass and in particular 2.5 to 10% by mass. [10] Makeup system according to one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one oil-soluble or oil-dispersible film-forming substance. [11] Makeup system according to claim 10, wherein the oil-soluble or oil-dispersible film-forming substance is selected from Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax, Trimethylsiloxysilicate and Acrylates / Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer. [12] Makeup system according to claim 10 or 11, wherein the amount of oil-soluble or oil-dispersible film-forming substance, based on the total mass of the cosmetic preparation, is 5 to 40% by mass, in particular 7 to 35% by mass and in particular 9 to 30% by mass. [13] Makeup system according to one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one oil-soluble or oil-dispersible conditioning substance. [14] Makeup system according to one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one thickening agent. [15] Makeup system according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized by that the cosmetic preparation is free of preservatives. [16] Makeup system according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the liquid phase of the cosmetic preparation is present in the capillary system in the form of a single-phase liquid phase. [17] Use of the makeup system according to any of the preceding claims for applying makeup to skin and / or mucous membrane and / or semi-mucous membrane. [18] Use of the makeup system according to any one of claims 1 to 16 as an eyeliner, browliner, lipliner or lipstick.

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