Multi-component system for the oxidative brightening of keratin fibers with linear oxygen release kinetics and dual structure assembly complex
The anhydrous system with solid urea peroxide and silicon compounds addresses the issues of structural damage and uneven results in conventional bleaching by controlling oxygen release kinetics, ensuring uniform hair lightening without damage.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- DE · DE
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- BUSCH DENNIS
- Filing Date
- 2026-01-19
- Publication Date
- 2026-05-07
AI Technical Summary
Conventional bleaching systems for human hair based on persulfate powders and liquid hydrogen peroxide exhibit exponential decomposition kinetics, leading to initial oxidation peaks causing structural damage, uneven results, and heterogeneity due to differential reactions in hair structures.
An anhydrous system using solid urea peroxide and organic silicon compounds with controlled linear oxygen release kinetics, providing intrinsic and extrinsic protection to the hair structure.
The system prevents structural damage and ensures uniform lightening by controlling the release of reactive oxygen species, maintaining the hair's integrity and achieving even color results.
Abstract
Description
1. Technical field
[0001] The innovation concerns a cosmetic agent for oxidative color change, in particular for bleaching and lightening human hair (keratin fibers), which is available as a water-free, multi-part kit system and is activated by adding water before use. 2. State of the art and problem statement
[0002] Conventional bleaching systems are typically based on the mixture of persulfate powders with liquid hydrogen peroxide solutions (H2O2).
[0003] These systems have a significant process engineering disadvantage: The reaction kinetics of liquid hydrogen peroxide in combination with persulfates follow an exponential decomposition curve (first-order kinetics). A disproportionately large proportion of the available active oxygen is released in the initial phase (first 15 to 20 minutes). This leads to an initial oxidation peak with strong exothermic activity (heat generation).
[0004] This causes three major problems: * Structural damage (primary damage): The aggressive oxidation and temperature spike at the beginning leads to massive protein denaturation and excessively stresses the disulfide bonds in the cortex (hair's outer layer) before gentle lightening can occur. The hair becomes structurally unstable ("rubber effect"). * Uneven result: Towards the end of the exposure time, there is often not enough active oxygen available to completely oxidize the resistant pheomelanin (red-yellow pigment). This promotes yellowing. * Heterogeneity: Different hair structures (root vs. keratinized lengths) react differently to the stormy and exothermic initial reaction, which can lead to patchy results. 3. Solution and advantages of the invention
[0005] The innovation solves these problems through an anhydrous system based on solid urea peroxide (carbamide peroxide / hydrogen peroxide-urea adduct) in combination with organic silicon compounds (silanetriols).
[0006] The decisive technical advantage lies in a dual protection mechanism based on specific reaction kinetics: A) Intrinsic fiber protection through linear kinetics (prevention): Because the peroxide is bound to the urea in a crystalline form, physical dissolution must occur before the oxygen is released. This delays the release of reactive oxygen species ("oxygen radicals"), resulting in a largely linear release over the course of the treatment (retard effect). This prevents the damaging temperature and oxidation spike at the beginning. The keratin structure and disulfide bonds are preserved, as the oxidation process is controlled and non-explosive. The hair is lightened without being structurally damaged. B) Extrinsic protection through silanetriol incorporation (restructuring): The urea released in parallel loosens the cuticle (outer scale layer of the hair), causing the hair to swell and the hair shaft (the externally visible part of the hair) to become more permeable. Because the gentle kinetics (see A) keep the overall fiber structure intact, the silanetriols contained within can effectively penetrate the cortex and polymerize there to stabilize the hair from within.
Claims
[1] Agent for the oxidative brightening of keratin fibers, present as an anhydrous multi-component kit, which is designed to be prepared as a ready-to-use mixture by adding water or an aqueous carrier liquid, characterized by , that the means includes at least: a) a first component containing solid, anhydrous urea peroxide (carbamide peroxide) as an oxidizing agent, and b) a second component containing at least one organic silicon compound from the group of silanols, silanetriols or silanetriol copolymers. [2] Means according to claim 1, characterized by, that the composition of the components is chosen in such a way that the release of atomic oxygen in aqueous environment is delayed (retard effect), so that an essentially linear oxidation kinetics is achieved, which enables continuous brightening over the entire exposure time without an initial peak in performance and thereby protects the structural integrity of the keratin fiber (disulfide bridges) during the brightening process. [3] Means according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized by that the organic silicon compound is a hydrolyzed protein-silanetriol copolymer. [4] Means according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized by , that it additionally contains persulfates (e.g. ammonium, potassium or sodium persulfate) and / or alkalizing agents (e.g. metasilicates) to adjust the pH of the ready-to-use mixture to between 9 and 11. [5] Means according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized bythat the first component (urea peroxide) is in the form of a powder, granules, tablet or an anhydrous suspension.