METHOD FOR DECOLORIZING KERATIN MATERIAL COLORED BY APPLICATION OF A PIGMENT

Description

[0001] The present application is in the field of cosmetics and relates to a method for decolorizing keratin material that has been colored by using at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and at least one pigment. The decolorizing agent applied in this method is characterized by its content of at least one salt of a monovalent or divalent cation and a pH value in the range of 1.0 to 4.7. The decolorizing agent is applied to the colored keratin material and rinsed off after a certain contact time.

[0002] A second subject matter of the present application is a method for dyeing and subsequently decolorizing keratin material, in which a dyeing agent containing at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and a pigment is first applied to the keratin, and in the subsequent steps the decolorization is carried out by applying the previously described decolorizing agent.

[0003] A third subject matter of the present application is a multi-component packaging unit which contains the coloring agent and the decolorizing agent in separately packaged containers.

[0004] Altering the shape and color of keratin fibers, especially hair, represents an important area of ​​modern cosmetics. Depending on the coloring requirements, hair coloring experts are familiar with various coloring systems. For permanent, intense colorings with good fastness properties and good gray coverage, oxidation dyes are typically used. Such dyes typically contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components, and coupler components, which, under the influence of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, form the actual dyes. Oxidation dyes are characterized by very long-lasting coloring results.

[0005] DE102016209980 discloses a method for removing color obtained by direct dyes from hair.

[0006] When using direct dyes, the fully formed pigments diffuse from the dyeing agent into the hair fiber. Compared to oxidative hair coloring, the colors obtained with direct dyes are less durable and wash out more quickly. Colorations with direct dyes typically remain on the hair for between 5 and 20 washes.

[0007] The use of color pigments is known for temporary color changes on hair and / or skin. Color pigments are generally understood to be insoluble, color-imparting substances. These are present undissolved in the form of small particles in the coloring formulation and are deposited only externally on the hair fibers and / or the skin surface. Therefore, they can usually be removed without residue after several washes with surfactant-containing cleansers. Various products of this type are available on the market under the name hair mascara.

[0008] If the user desires particularly long-lasting color results, the use of oxidative colorants has so far been the only option. However, despite numerous optimization attempts, an unpleasant ammonia or amine odor cannot be completely avoided with oxidative hair coloring. The hair damage still associated with the use of oxidative colorants also has a detrimental effect on the user's hair. Therefore, the search for alternative, high-performance coloring methods remains a challenge. One possible alternative coloring system that has recently gained increasing attention is based on the use of colored pigments.

[0009] Coloring with pigments offers several significant advantages. Because the pigments only attach to the keratin materials, especially the hair fibers, from the outside, the damage associated with the coloring process is particularly minimal. Recent work has addressed the problem of the short durability of this coloring system. In this context, it was found that the washfastness of the color results obtained with pigments could be significantly improved by combining the pigments with certain amino-functionalized silicone polymers.

[0010] By using a suitable color remover, these dyes can be removed without affecting the user's original hair color. This offers the user the option of returning to their original hair color immediately and without great effort. This coloring process is therefore particularly attractive for consumers who do not want to recolor their hair regularly.

[0011] A suitable bleaching agent should be able to remove the colored film formed on the surface of the keratin material by the application of pigments or pigments and aminosilicones as residue-free as possible. If this colored film is only partially or incompletely removed, unwanted color shifts or a patchy color result will result, which the user finds highly unattractive.

[0012] To increase user comfort, a bleaching agent should remove the colored films within the shortest possible time, and the keratin material or the hair should not be damaged by the application of the bleaching agent.

[0013] The object of the present invention was therefore to provide a bleaching agent for bleaching colored keratin fibers that were previously colored using at least one pigment, or at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and a pigment. The bleaching should be as complete as possible, so that the color of the keratin material ideally returns to its original color. Furthermore, the bleaching should be long-lasting and uniform, and the bleached keratin fibers should not suffer any shifts in nuance or uneven color results. Furthermore, the bleaching agent should cause as little damage as possible to the keratin material.

[0014] Surprisingly, it has now been found that this task can be fully achieved if keratinic material, which has previously been colored with at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and with at least one pigment, is treated with a decolorizing agent which contains at least one salt of a mono- or divalent cation and has a pH value in the range of 1.0 to 4.7.

[0015] A first object of the present invention is a process for decolorizing keratin material which has been colored by applying at least one pigment, wherein a decolorizing agent which (a) contains at least one salt of a mono- or divalent cation, and (b) has a pH of 1.0 to 4.7, applied to the colored keratin material and rinsed off after a certain exposure time.

[0016] The work leading to this invention demonstrated that keratin fibers, especially hair, could be intensely colored using pigments. Particularly intense coloring results were achieved when coloring was performed using a combination of pigment and aminosilicone. The pigment, or the mixture of pigment and aminosilicone, deposited in the form of a colored film on the surface of the keratin fibers. Furthermore, it was shown that these colorations could be completely removed within a short period of time by applying the previously described decolorizing agent, without damaging the hair. Decolorization of keratinic material

[0017] Keratinous material includes hair, skin, and nails (such as fingernails and / or toenails). Wool, fur, and feathers also fall under the definition of keratinous material.

[0018] Keratinous material is preferably understood to mean human hair, human skin, and human nails, especially fingernails and toenails. Keratinous material is most preferably understood to mean human hair.

[0019] In the context of this invention, the term "decolorizing agent" refers to the ability to remove a coloration on the keratin material that was created by applying at least one pigment, or at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and a pigment. During this coloring, the keratin material or keratin fiber is enveloped by a colored film formed from the pigment, or the pigment and aminosilicone. According to the invention, the decolorizing agent is applied after the application of the coloring agent and is capable of removing this colored film from the keratin material.

[0020] Characteristic of the method according to the invention is the application of the decolorizing agent to keratin material which has previously been colored by applying at least one pigment, or at least one aminosilicone and a pigment. amino-functionalized silicone polymer in the dye

[0021] The decolorizing agent used in the process according to the invention showed a particularly strong effect when a combination of pigments with aminosilicones was used in the previous coloring of the keratin material or the keratin fibers.

[0022] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by using at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and at least one pigment.

[0023] The amino-functionalized silicone polymer can alternatively be referred to as aminosilicone or amodimethicone.

[0024] Silicone polymers are generally macromolecules having a molecular weight of at least 500 g / mol, preferably at least 1000 g / mol, more preferably at least 2500 g / mol, particularly preferably at least 5000 g / mol, which comprise repeating organic units.

[0025] The maximum molecular weight of the silicone polymer depends on the degree of polymerization (number of polymerized monomers) and the batch size, and is also determined by the polymerization method. For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferred if the maximum molecular weight of the silicone polymer is no more than 10 7 g / mol, preferably no more than 10 6 g / mol, and particularly preferably no more than 10 5 g / mol.

[0026] Silicone polymers comprise many Si-O repeating units, where the Si atoms may carry organic residues such as alkyl or substituted alkyl groups. Alternatively, a silicone polymer is therefore also referred to as polydimethylsiloxane.

[0027] In accordance with the high molecular weight of the silicone polymers, these are based on more than 10 Si-O repeating units, preferably more than 50 Si-O repeating units and particularly preferably more than 100 Si-O repeating units, most preferably more than 500 Si-O repeating units.

[0028] An amino-functionalized silicone polymer is a functionalized silicone that carries at least one structural unit with an amino group. The amino-functionalized silicone polymer preferably carries multiple structural units, each with at least one amino group. An amino group is understood to mean a primary amino group, a secondary amino group, and a tertiary amino group. All of these amino groups can be protonated in an acidic environment and are then present in their cationic form.

[0029] In principle, good dyeing performance could be achieved with amino-functionalized silicone polymers if they contained at least one primary, at least one secondary, and / or at least one tertiary amino group. However, intense dyeings with the best washfastness were obtained when an amino-functionalized silicone polymer containing at least one secondary amino group was used in the dyeing agent.

[0030] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by applying at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer having at least one secondary amino group.

[0031] The secondary amino group(s) can be located at various positions on the amino-functionalized silicone polymer. Particularly good color results were obtained when using an amino-functionalized silicone polymer that contains at least one, preferably several, structural units of the formula (Si-amino).

[0032] In the structural units of the formula (Si-Amino), the abbreviations ALK1 and ALK2 independently represent a linear or branched, divalent C 1 -C 20 alkylene group.

[0033] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by applying at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer which comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (Si-Amino), where ALK1 and ALK2 independently represent a linear or branched, divalent C 1 -C 20 alkylene group.

[0034] The positions marked with an asterisk (*) indicate the bond to other structural units of the silicone polymer. For example, the silicon atom adjacent to the star can be bonded to another oxygen atom, and the oxygen atom adjacent to the star can be bonded to another silicon atom or to a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group.

[0035] A divalent C 1 -C 20 alkylene group can alternatively be referred to as a divalent or divalent C 1 -C 20 alkylene group, which means that each group ALK1 or AK2 can form two bonds.

[0036] In the case of ALK1, one bond is formed from the silicon atom to the ALK1 group, and the second bond is formed between ALK1 and the secondary amino group.

[0037] In the case of ALK2, one bond is formed from the secondary amino group to the ALK2 moiety, and the second bond is formed between ALK2 and the primary amino group.

[0038] Examples of a linear divalent C 1 -C 20 alkylene group are, for example, the methylene group (-CH 2 -), the ethylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -), the propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -) and the butylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -). The propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -) is particularly preferred. From a chain length of 3 C atoms, divalent alkylene groups can also be branched. Examples of branched, divalent C 3 -C 20 alkylene groups are (-CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-) and (-CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -).

[0039] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the structural units of the formula (Si-amino) represent repeating units in the amino-functionalized silicone polymer, so that the silicone polymer comprises several structural units of the formula (Si-amino).

[0040] Particularly suitable amino-functionalized silicone polymers with at least one secondary amino group are listed below.

[0041] Dyes with the very best wash fastness could be obtained if, during the preceding dyeing, at least one agent was applied to the keratinic material which contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer comprising structural units of the formula (Si-I) and the formula (Si-II)

[0042] In a further explicitly particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by applying at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer which comprises structural units of the formula (Si-I) and the formula (Si-II)

[0043] An example of a corresponding amino-functionalized silicone polymer with the structural units (Si-I) and (Si-II) is the commercial product DC 2-8566 or Dowsil 2-8566 Amino Fluid, which is marketed by the Dow Chemical Company and bears the name "Siloxanes and Silicones, 3-[(2-Aminoethyl)amino]-2-methylpropyl Me, Di-Me-Siloxane" and the CAS number 106842-44-8. Another particularly preferred commercial product is Dowsil AP-8658 Amino Fluid, which is also marketed by the Dow Chemical Company.

[0044] In a further preferred embodiment, the bleaching agent can also be applied to keratin material which has previously been dyed by the application of a dye containing at least one amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-III), where m and n are numbers chosen so that the sum (n + m) is in the range from 1 to 1000, n is a number in the range from 0 to 999 and m is a number in the range from 1 to 1000, R1, R2 and R3, which are the same or different, are a hydroxy group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, wherein at least one of the groups R1 to R3 is a hydroxy group;

[0045] Further preferred methods according to the invention are characterized by the prior application of a coloring agent to the keratinic material, wherein the coloring agent contains at least amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-IV), in the p and q are numbers chosen so that the sum (p + q) is in the range from 1 to 1000, p is a number in the range from 0 to 999 and q is a number in the range from 1 to 1000, R1 and R2, which are different, are a hydroxy group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, where at least one of the groups R1 to R2 is a hydroxy group.

[0046] The silicones of formulas (Si-III) and (Si-IV) differ in the grouping at the Si atom carrying the nitrogen-containing group: In formula (Si-III), R2 is a hydroxyl group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, while the residue in formula (Si-IV) is a methyl group. The individual Si groups, which are designated by the indices m and n or p and q, do not have to be present as blocks; rather, the individual units can also be randomly distributed, i.e. in formulas (Si-III) and (Si-IV), not every R1-Si(CH 3 ) 2 group is necessarily bonded to an -[O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 ] group.

[0047] Methods according to the invention have also proven particularly effective in producing intensive color results, in which a colorant is applied to the keratin fibers, which contains at least one amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-V) in the A stands for a group -OH, -O-Si(CH 3 ) 3 ,-O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH,-O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3, D stands for a group -H, -Si(CH 3 ) 3 ,-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH, -Si(CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3, b, n and c stand for integers between 0 and 1000, with the provisos n > 0 and b + c > 0 at least one of the conditions A = -OH or D = -H is fulfilled.

[0048] In the above-mentioned formula (Si-V), the individual siloxane units with the indices b, c and n are statistically distributed, ie they do not necessarily have to be block copolymers.

[0049] The previously applied colorant may further comprise one or more different amino-functionalized silicone polymers described by the formula (Si-VI) M(R a Q b SiO (4-ab) / 2)x (R c SiO (4-c) / 2)y M (Si-VI), wherein in the above formula R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R 1< HZ, wherein R 1< is a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z, composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and Z is an organic amino-functional radical containing at least one amino-functional group;"a" takes on values ​​in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" takes on values ​​in the range of about 1 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3, and x is a number in the range of 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number in the range of about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group as known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of the radicals represented by R include alkyl radicals such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl, and the like; alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, and the like;Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably, R is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably, R is methyl. Examples of R 1< include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH(CH 3 )CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH(CH 3 )C(O)OCH 2 -, -(CH 2 ) 3 CC(O)OCH 2 CH 2 -, -C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and -(CH 2 ) 3 C(O)SCH 2 CH 2 -.;

[0050] Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one amino functional group. One possible formula for Z is NH(CH 2 ) z NH 2 , where z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is -NH(CH 2 ) z (CH 2 ) zz NH, where both z and zz are independently 1 or more, this structure including diamino ring structures such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably an -NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 radical. Another possible formula for Z is -N(CH 2 ) z (CH 2 ) zz NX 2 or -NX 2 , where each X of X 2 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.

[0051] Q is most preferably a polar, amine-functional radical of the formula -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 . In the formulas, "a" takes on values ​​in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" takes on values ​​in the range of about 2 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3. The molar ratio of the R a Q b SiO(4-ab) / 2 units to the R c SiO(4-c) / 2 units is in the range of about 1:2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1:5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. If one or more silicones of the above formula are employed, the various variable substituents in the above formula can be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone mixture.

[0052] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized by the prior application of a coloring agent to the keratinic material, wherein the coloring agent contains an amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-VII) R' a G 3-a- Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiG b R' 2-b ) m -O-SiG 3-a -R' a (Si-VII), in which: G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH 3 , -CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -O-CH(CH 3 ) 2 , -CH(CH 3 ) 2 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , - CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH(CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH(CH 3 ) 2 , -O-CH(CH 3 )CH 2 CH 3 , - CH(CH 3 )CH 2 CH 3 , -OC(CH 3 ) 3 , -C(CH 3 ) 3 ; a stands for a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0; b stands for a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1, m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably assumes values ​​from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values ​​from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10, R' is a monovalent radical selected from ∘ -QN(R")-CH 2 -CH 2 -N(R") 2 ∘ -QN(R") 2 ∘ -QN +< (R") 3 A -< ∘ -QN +< H(R") 2 A -< ∘ -QN +< H 2 (R")A -< ∘ -QN(R")-CH 2 -CH 2 -N +< R"H 2 A -< , where each Q represents a chemical bond, -CH 2 -, -CH 2 -CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -C(CH 3 ) 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 C(CH 3 ) 2 -, -CH(CH 3 )CH 2 CH 2 -, R" represents identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )Ph, the C 1-20 -alkyl radicals, preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH(CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 H 3 , -CH 2 CH(CH 3 ) 2 , -CH(CH 3 )CH 2 CH 3 , -C(CH 3 ) 3 , and A represents an anion which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.

[0053] In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized by the prior application of a coloring agent to the keratinic material, wherein the coloring agent contains at least one amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-VIIa), wherein m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, n preferably taking values ​​from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably taking values ​​from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

[0054] According to the INCI declaration, these silicones are called trimethylsilylamodimethicones.

[0055] In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized by the prior application of a coloring agent to the keratinic material, wherein the coloring agent contains at least one amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-VIIb) wherein R is -OH, -O-CH 3 or a -CH 3 group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assuming values ​​from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assuming values ​​from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

[0056] These amino-functionalized silicone polymers are referred to as amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

[0057] Regardless of which amino-functional silicones are used, colorants according to the invention are preferred that contain an amino-functional silicone polymer whose amine number is above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g, and in particular above 0.4 meq / g. The amine number represents the milliequivalents of amine per gram of amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and can also be expressed in mg KOH / g.

[0058] Furthermore, colorants containing a specific 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone polymer are also suitable for use in the process according to the invention. This amino-functionalized silicone polymer comprises structural units of the formulas (SI-VIII) and (Si-IX).

[0059] Corresponding 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone polymers are described below.

[0060] A corresponding amino-functionalized silicone polymer is known under the name Amodimethicone / Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane Copolymer and is commercially available in the form of the raw material Belsil ADM 8301 E from Wacker.

[0061] For example, a silicone containing structural units of the formulas (Si-VIII), (Si-IX) and (Si-X) can be used as a 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone. in which R1 stands for -CH 3 , -OH, -OCH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , or -O-CH(CH 3 ) 2; R2 stands for -CH 3 , -OH, or -OCH 3.

[0062] Particularly preferred colorants contain at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (Si-XI) in the R1 stands for -CH 3 , -OH, -OCH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , or -O-CH(CH 3 ) 2; R2 stands for -CH 3 , -OH, or -OCH 3. B stands for a group -OH, -O-Si(CH 3 ) 3 , -O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH, -O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3, D stands for a group -H, -Si(CH 3 ) 3 , -Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH, -Si(CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3, a, b and c independently of one another stand for integers between 0 and 1000, with the proviso that a + b + c > 0 m and n independently of one another stand for integers between 1 and 1000, with the proviso that at least one of the conditions B = -OH or D = -H is met, the units a, b, c, m and n are distributed statistically or in blocks in the molecule.

[0063] Structural formula (Si-XI) is intended to clarify that the siloxane groups n and m do not necessarily have to be directly bonded to an end grouping B or D. Rather, in preferred formulas (Si-VI), a > 0 or b > 0, and in particularly preferred formulas (Si-VI), a > 0 and c > 0, i.e., the terminal grouping B or D is preferably bonded to a dimethylsiloxy grouping. In formula (Si-VI), the siloxane units a, b, c, m, and n are also preferably distributed randomly.

[0064] The silicones represented by formula (Si-VI) used according to the invention can be trimethylsilyl-terminated (D or B = -Si(CH 3 ) 3 ), but they can also be dimethylsilylhydroxy-terminated on two sides or dimethylsilylhydroxy- and dimethylsilylmethoxy-terminated on one side. Silicones particularly preferably used in the context of the present invention are selected from silicones in which B = -O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH and D = -Si(CH 3 ) 3 B = -O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH and D = -Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH B = -O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH and D = -Si(CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 B = -O-Si(CH 3 ) 3 and D = -Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH B = -O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 and D = -Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH These silicones lead to exorbitant improvements in the hair properties of hair treated with the agents according to the invention, and to significantly improved protection during oxidative treatment.

[0065] The agent used in the process according to the invention for the preceding coloring may contain one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers, for example, in a total amount of 0.1 to 8.0 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.3 to 3.0 wt.%, and most preferably 0.4 to 2.5 wt.%. The amounts stated here are based on the total amount of all aminosilicones used, which is related to the total weight of the coloring agent.

[0066] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the coloring agent - based on the total weight of the agent - contains one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers in a total amount of 0.1 to 8.0 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.3 to 3.0 wt.% and most preferably 0.4 to 2.5 wt.%. Pigments in the dye

[0067] In the method according to the invention, a decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has previously been colored by applying at least one pigment.

[0068] Pigments within the meaning of the present invention are understood to be coloring compounds which have a solubility in water at 25°C of less than 0.5 g / L, preferably less than 0.1 g / L, even more preferably less than 0.05 g / L. The water solubility can be determined, for example, using the method described below: 0.5 g of the pigment is weighed into a beaker. A stirring bar is added. Then one liter of distilled water is added. This mixture is heated to 25°C for one hour while stirring on a magnetic stirrer. If undissolved components of the pigment are still visible in the mixture after this period, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L. If the pigment-water mixture cannot be visually assessed due to the high intensity of the pigment, which may be present in finely dispersed form, the mixture is filtered.If a portion of undissolved pigments remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L.

[0069] Suitable color pigments can be of inorganic and / or organic origin. In a preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material that has been colored by applying at least one inorganic and / or organic pigment.

[0070] Preferred color pigments are selected from synthetic or natural inorganic pigments. Inorganic color pigments of natural origin can be made from chalk, ochre, umber, green earth, burnt sienna, or graphite, for example. Other inorganic color pigments that can be used include black pigments such as iron oxide black, colored pigments such as ultramarine or iron oxide red, as well as fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments.

[0071] Particularly suitable are colored metal oxides, hydroxides, and oxide hydrates, mixed-phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, chromates, and / or molybdates. Particularly preferred color pigments are black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510), and / or carmine (cochineal).

[0072] Also particularly preferred color pigments according to the invention are colored pearlescent pigments. These are typically based on mica and / or mica and can be coated with one or more metal oxides. Mica belongs to the class of layered silicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite, and margarite. To produce the pearlescent pigments in combination with metal oxides, the mica, predominantly muscovite or phlogopite, is coated with a metal oxide.

[0073] As an alternative to natural mica, synthetic mica, optionally coated with one or more metal oxides, can also be used as a pearlescent pigment. Particularly preferred pearlescent pigments are based on natural or synthetic mica and coated with one or more of the aforementioned metal oxides. The color of the respective pigments can be varied by varying the layer thickness of the metal oxide(s).

[0074] In a preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by applying at least one inorganic pigment, wherein the inorganic pigment is preferably selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or colored pigments based on mica or mica which are coated with at least one metal oxide and / or one metal oxychloride.

[0075] In a preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by applying at least one pigment selected from mica- or mica-based pigments coated with one or more metal oxides from the group consisting of titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide (CI 77491, CI 77499), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), chromium oxide (CI 77288) and / or iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510).

[0076] Examples of particularly suitable color pigments are commercially available under the trade names Rona ®< , Colorona ®< , Xirona ®< , Dichrona ®< and Timiron ®< from Merck, Ariabel ®< and Unipure ®< from Sensient, Prestige ®< from Eckart Cosmetic Colors and Sunshine ®< from Sunstar.

[0077] Particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Colorona ®< are, for example: Colorona Copper, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Passion Orange, Merck, Mica, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Alumina Colorona Patina Silver, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) Colorona RY, Merck, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 75470 (CARMINE) Colorona Oriental Beige, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Dark Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, FERRIC FERROCYANIDE Colorona Chameleon, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA Colorona Aborigine Amber, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) Colorona Blackstar Blue, Merck, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), MICA Colorona Patagonian Purple, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77510 (FERRIC FERROCYANIDE) Colorona Red Brown, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) Colorona Russet, Merck, CI 77491 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 77891 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Imperial Red, Merck, MICA,TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), D&C RED NO. 30 (CI 73360) Colorona Majestic Green, Merck, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 77288 (CHROMIUM OXIDE GREENS) Colorona Light Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), FERRIC FERROCYANIDE (CI 77510) Colorona Red Gold, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Gold Plus MP 25, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), IRON OXIDES (CI 77491) Colorona Carmine Red, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, CARMINE Colorona Blackstar Green, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Bordeaux, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Bronze, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Bronze Fine, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Fine Gold MP 20, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Sienna Fine, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA Colorona Sienna, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Precious Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), Silica,CI 77491(Iron oxides), Tin oxide Colorona Sun Gold Sparkle MP 29, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, IRON OXIDES, MICA, CI 77891, CI 77491 (EU) Colorona Mica Black, Merck, CI 77499 (Iron oxides), Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide) Colorona Bright Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), CI 77491(Iron oxides) Colorona Blackstar Gold, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES) ,

[0078] Other particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Xirona ®< are, for example: Xirona Golden Sky, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide Xirona Caribbean Blue, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Silica, Tin Oxide Dioxide), Tin Oxide.

[0079] In addition, particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Unipure ®< are, for example: Unipure Red LC 381 EM, Sensient CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Silica Unipure Black LC 989 EM, Sensient, CI 77499 (Iron Oxides), Silica Unipure Yellow LC 182 EM, Sensient, CI 77492 (Iron Oxides), Silica

[0080] In a further embodiment, the previously applied colorant may also contain one or more organic pigments.

[0081] The organic pigments according to the invention are correspondingly insoluble, organic dyes or lakes which can be selected, for example, from the group of nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, anthraquinone, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyorrole, indigo, thioindido, dioxazine and / or triarylmethane compounds.

[0082] Particularly suitable organic pigments are, for example, carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the Color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.

[0083] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by the application of at least one organic pigment, wherein the organic pigment is preferably selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000,CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.,

[0084] The organic pigment can also be a colored lake. For the purposes of the invention, the term colored lake refers to particles comprising a layer of absorbed dyes, the particle-dye unit being insoluble under the above-mentioned conditions. The particles can be, for example, inorganic substrates, which can be aluminum, silica, calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, or even aluminum.

[0085] Alizarin varnish, for example, can be used as a colored varnish.

[0086] Due to their excellent light and temperature stability, the use of the aforementioned pigments in the composition is particularly preferred. Furthermore, it is preferred if the pigments used have a specific particle size. It is therefore advantageous according to the invention if the at least one pigment has an average particle size D 50 of 1.0 to 50 µm, preferably of 5.0 to 45 µm, more preferably of 10 to 40 µm, in particular of 14 to 30 µm. The average particle size D 50 can be determined, for example, using dynamic light scattering (DLS).

[0087] The agent used in the process according to the invention for the preceding coloring may contain one or more pigments, for example, in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.2 to 2.5 wt.%, and most preferably 0.25 to 1.5 wt.%. The amounts stated here are based on the total amount of all pigments used, which is related to the total weight of the colorant.

[0088] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a colorant according to the invention is characterized in that the colorant - based on the total weight of the colorant - contains one or more pigments in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.2 to 2.5 wt.% and very particularly preferably 0.25 to 1.5 wt.%.

[0089] As a further optional ingredient, the colorants could also contain one or more direct dyes. Direct dyes are dyes that absorb directly into the hair and do not require an oxidative process to develop the color. Direct dyes are typically nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes, or indophenols.

[0090] The direct dyes according to the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25°C of more than 0.5 g / L and are therefore not considered pigments. Preferably, the direct dyes according to the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25°C of more than 1.0 g / L.

[0091] Direct dyes can be divided into anionic, cationic and non-ionic direct dyes.

[0092] In a further embodiment, an agent according to the invention can be characterized in that it additionally contains at least one color-providing compound from the group of anionic, non-ionic and cationic direct dyes.

[0093] Suitable cationic direct dyes are, for example, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, HC Blue 16, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 16, Basic Blue 347 (Cationic Blue 347 / Dystar), HC Blue No. 16, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31, Basic Red 51 Basic Red 76.

[0094] Non-ionic direct dyes that can be used include non-ionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes. Suitable non-ionic direct dyes are those known under the international designations "N" and "N" respectively.Handelsnamen HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 bekannten Verbindungen, sowie 1,4-Diamino-2-nitrobenzol, 2-Amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-Bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-nitrobenzol, 3-Nitro-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-aminophenol, 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitro-1-methylbenzol, 1-Amino-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-5-chlor-2-nitrobenzol, 4-Amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-(2'-Ureidoethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzol, 2-[(4-Amino-2-nitrophenyl)amino]-benzoesäure, 6-Nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydrochinoxalin, 2-Hydroxy-1,4-naphthochinon, Pikraminsäure und deren Salze, 2-Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-Ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoesäure und 2-Chlor-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol.

[0095] Anionic substantive dyes are also known as acid dyes. Acid dyes are understood to be substantive dyes that contain at least one carboxylic acid group (-COOH) and / or one sulfonic acid group (-SO 3 H). Depending on the pH, the protonated forms (-COOH, -SO 3 H) of the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups are in equilibrium with their deprotonated forms (-COO -< , -SO 3 -< before). As the pH decreases, the proportion of protonated forms increases. If substantive dyes are used in the form of their salts, the carboxylic acid groups or sulfonic acid groups are in deprotonated form and are neutralized with corresponding stoichiometric equivalents of cations to maintain electroneutrality. Acid dyes according to the invention can also be used in the form of their sodium salts and / or their potassium salts.

[0096] The acid dyes according to the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25°C of more than 0.5 g / L and are therefore not considered pigments. Preferably, the acid dyes according to the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25°C of more than 1.0 g / L.

[0097] The alkaline earth metal salts (such as calcium and magnesium salts) and aluminum salts of acid dyes often have lower solubility than the corresponding alkali metal salts. If the solubility of these salts is below 0.5 g / L (25 °C, 760 mmHg), they do not fall under the definition of a direct dye.

[0098] A key feature of acid dyes is their ability to form anionic charges, with the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups responsible for this being typically linked to various chromophoric systems. Suitable chromophoric systems can be found, for example, in the structures of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, triarylmethane dyes, xanthene dyes, rhodamine dyes, oxazine dyes, and / or indophenol dyes.

[0099] Within the scope of a further embodiment, an agent for coloring keratinic material can be characterized in that it contains at least one anionic direct dye selected from the group of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, triarylmethane dyes, xanthene dyes, rhodamine dyes, oxazine dyes and / or indophenol dyes, wherein the dyes from the aforementioned group each have at least one carboxylic acid group (-COOH), a sodium carboxylate group (-COONa), a potassium carboxylate group (-COOK), a sulfonic acid group (-SO 3 H), a sodium sulfonate group (-SO 3 Na) and / or a potassium sulfonate group (-SO 3 K).

[0100] Suitable acid dyes can be, for example, one or more compounds selected from the following group: Acid Yellow 1 (D&C Yellow 7, Citronin A, Ext. D&C Yellow No. 7, Japan Yellow 403, CI 10316, COLIPA n° B001), Acid Yellow 3 (COLIPA n°: C 54, D&C Yellow N° 10, Quinoline Yellow, E104, Food Yellow 13), Acid Yellow 9 (CI 13015), Acid Yellow 17 (CI 18965), Acid Yellow 23 (COLIPA n° C 29, Covacap Jaune W 1100 (LCW), Sicovit Tartrazine 85 E 102 (BASF), Tartrazine, Food Yellow 4, Japan Yellow 4, FD&C Yellow No. 5), Acid Yellow 36 (CI 13065), Acid Yellow 121 (CI 18690), Acid Orange 6 (CI 14270), Acid Orange 7 (2-Naphthol orange, Orange II, CI 15510, D&C Orange 4, COLIPA n° C015), Acid Orange 10 (CI 16230; Orange G sodium salt), Acid Orange 11 (CI 45370), Acid Orange 15 (CI 50120), Acid Orange 20 (CI 14600), Acid Orange 24 (BROWN 1;CI 20170;KATSU201;nosodiumsalt;Brown No.201;RESORCIN BROWN;ACID ORANGE 24;Japan Brown 201;D & C Brown No.1), Acid Red 14 (C.1.14720), Acid Red 18 (E124, Red 18; CI 16255), Acid Red 27 (E 123, CI 16185, C-Rot 46, Echtrot D, FD&C Red Nr.2, Food Red 9, Naphtholrot S), Acid Red 33 (Red 33, Fuchsia Red, D&C Red 33, CI 17200), Acid Red 35 (CI C.I.18065), Acid Red 51 (CI 45430, Pyrosin B, Tetraiodfluorescein, Eosin J, lodeosin), Acid Red 52 (CI 45100, Food Red 106, Solar Rhodamine B, Acid Rhodamine B, Red n° 106 Pontacyl Brilliant Pink), Acid Red 73 (CI CI 27290), Acid Red 87 (Eosin, CI 45380), Acid Red 92 (COLIPA n° C53, CI 45410), Acid Red 95 (CI 45425, Erythtosine,Simacid Erythrosine Y), Acid Red 184 (CI 15685), Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43 (Jarocol Violet 43, Ext. D&C Violet n° 2, C.I. 60730, COLIPA n° C063), Acid Violet 49 (CI 42640), Acid Violet 50 (CI 50325), Acid Blue 1 (Patent Blue, CI 42045), Acid Blue 3 (Patent Blau V, CI 42051), Acid Blue 7 (CI 42080), Acid Blue 104 (CI 42735), Acid Blue 9 (E 133, Patentblau AE, Amidoblau AE, Erioglaucin A, CI 42090, C.I.Food Blue 2), Acid Blue 62 (CI 62045), Acid Blue 74 (E 132, CI 73015), Acid Blue 80 (CI 61585), Acid Green 3 (CI 42085, Foodgreen1), Acid Green 5 (CI 42095), Acid Green 9 (C.1.42100), Acid Green 22 (C.1.42170), Acid Green 25 (CI 61570, Japan Green 201, D&C Green No. 5), Acid Green 50 (Brillantsäuregrün BS, C.I. 44090, Acid Brilliant Green BS, E 142), Acid Black 1 (Black n° 401, Naphthalene Black 10B, Amido Black 10B, CI 20 470, COLIPA n° B15), Acid Black 52 (CI 15711), Food Yellow 8 (CI 14270), Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange 10, D&C Orange 11, D&C Red 21, D&C Red 27, D&C Red 33, D&C Violet 2 und / oder D&C Brown 1.

[0101] The water solubility of anionic direct dyes can be determined, for example, as follows: 0.1 g of the anionic direct dye is placed in a beaker. A stir bar is attached. Then 100 ml of water is added. This mixture is heated to 25 °C on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. It is stirred for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then visually assessed. If undissolved residues remain, the amount of water is increased – for example, in 10 ml increments. Water is added until the added amount of dye has completely dissolved. If the dye-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to the high intensity of the dye, the mixture is filtered. If a portion of undissolved dye remains on the filter paper, the solubility test is repeated using a larger amount of water.If 0.1 g of the anionic direct dye dissolves in 100 ml of water at 25 °C, the solubility of the dye is 1.0 g / L.

[0102] Acid Yellow 1 is called 8-hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid disodium salt and has a solubility in water of at least 40 g / L (25°C).

[0103] Acid Yellow 3 is a mixture of the sodium salts of mono- and sulfonic acids of 2-(2-quinolyl)-1H-indene-1,3(2H)-dione and has a water solubility of 20 g / L (25 °C).

[0104] Acid Yellow 9 is the disodium salt of 8-hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid, its water solubility is above 40 g / L (25 °C).

[0105] Acid Yellow 23 is the trisodium salt of 4,5-dihydro-5-oxo-1-(4-sulfophenyl)-4-((4-sulfophenyl)azo)-1H-pyrazole-3-carboxylic acid and is readily soluble in water at 25 °C.

[0106] Acid Orange 7 is the sodium salt of 4-[(2-hydroxy-1-naphthyl)azo]benzenesulfonate. Its water solubility is greater than 7 g / L (25 °C).

[0107] Acid Red 18 is the trisodium salt of 7-hydroxy-8-[(E)-(4-sulfonato-1-naphthyl)-diazenyl)]-1,3-naphthalenedisulfonate and has a very high water solubility of more than 20 wt%.

[0108] Acid Red 33 is the diantrium salt of 5-amino-4-hydroxy-3-(phenylazo)-naphthalene-2,7-disulphonate, its water solubility is 2.5 g / L (25 °C).

[0109] Acid Red 92 is the disodium salt of 3,4,5,6-tetrachloro-2-(1,4,5,8-tetrabromo-6-hydroxy-3-oxoxanthen-9-yl)benzoic acid, whose water solubility is stated to be greater than 10 g / L (25 °C).

[0110] Acid Blue 9 is the disodium salt of 2-({4-[N-ethyl(3-sulfonatobenzyl]amino]phenyl}{4-[(N-ethyl(3-sulfonatobenzyl)imino]-2,5-cyclohexadien-1-ylidene}methyl)-benzenesulfonate and has a water solubility of more than 20 wt% (25 °C).

[0111] In einer weiteren Ausführungsform ist ein erfindungsgemäßes Färbemittel daher dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es mindestens einen direktziehenden Farbstoff enthält, der ausgewählt ist aus der Gruppe aus Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 3, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 17, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 121, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 11, Acid Orange 15, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Acid Red 14, Acid Red, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 51, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 95, Acid Red 184, Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49, Acid Violet 50, Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 104, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 74, Acid Blue 80, Acid Green 3, Acid Green 5, Acid Green 9, Acid Green 22, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 50, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Food Yellow 8, Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange 10, D&C Orange 11, D&C Red 21, D&C Red 27, D&C Red 33,D&C Violet 2 and / or D&C Brown 1.,

[0112] The direct dye(s) can be used in the dyeing agent in varying amounts depending on the desired color intensity. Good results have been achieved when the dyeing agent contains one or more direct dyes in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 8.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.2 to 6.0 wt.%, and most preferably 0.5 to 4.5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the dyeing agent.

[0113] Furthermore, the agent may also contain, as an additional optional ingredient, a color-providing compound from the group of photochromic or thermochromic dyes.

[0114] Photochromic dyes are dyes that react to UV light (sunlight or black light) with a reversible color change. The UV light changes the chemical structure of the dyes and thus their absorption behavior (photochromism).

[0115] Thermochromic dyes are dyes that react to temperature changes with a reversible color change. The temperature change alters the chemical structure of the dyes and thus their absorption behavior (thermochromism).

[0116] The colorant may contain - based on the total weight of the colorant - one or more photochromic and / or thermochromic dyes in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 8.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.2 to 6.0 wt.% and most preferably 0.5 to 4.5 wt.%. Decolorizer

[0117] In the process according to the invention, a bleaching agent is applied to the keratin material, in particular to human hair, which has been dyed as described above. The bleaching agent is applied to the dyed keratin material and rinsed off after a certain contact time.

[0118] The time at which the bleaching agent is applied depends on the needs of the user and can be adapted to their habits.

[0119] For example, it is possible to apply the bleaching agent to freshly colored, still wet or preferably dried keratin material, leaving a period of several hours between rinsing out the colorant and applying the bleaching agent. Applying the bleaching agent shortly after coloring is particularly useful if the coloring result does not meet the user's expectations. It is also possible, for example, to apply a very intense or striking color for a specific occasion and then remove the color afterward.

[0120] It is also possible that there may be a longer period of time between the previous application of the colorant and the application of the bleaching agent, which can range from a few days to several weeks. In this context, the prerequisite is that the bleaching agent is applied to colored keratin material, which means that the keratin material must still be colored by the application of the pigments.

[0121] The decolorizing agent is characterized by the fact that it (a) contains at least one salt of a mono- or divalent cation, and (b) has a pH of 1.0 to 4.7. Salts of mono- or divalent cations in the decolorizer

[0122] The decolorizing agent used in the process according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one salt of a mono- or divalent cation.

[0123] Monovalent cations are simply positively charged cations. Examples of monovalent cations are the sodium cation (Na +< ), the potassium cation (K +< ), and the ammonium cation (NH 4 ) +< .

[0124] Divalent cations are cations with two positive charges. Examples of divalent cations are Ca 2+ (the potassium cation), Mg 2+ (the magnesium cation), Ba 2+ (the barium cation), Cu 2+ (the copper cation), Fe 2+ (the iron cation), and Zn 2+ (the zinc cation).

[0125] Particularly suitable salts of mono- or divalent cations are the salts of calcium, the salts of magnesium, the salts of sodium, the salts of potassium and the salts of ammonium.

[0126] In a further embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one salt of a mono- or divalent cation (a) selected from the group of calcium salts, magnesium salts, sodium salts, potassium salts and ammonium salts.

[0127] In the salts of divalent cations, the two positive charges are neutralized by the presence of the corresponding equivalents of anionically charged counterions. The anions present as counterions can be inorganic or organic.

[0128] Examples of organic anionic counterions include citrates (the salts of citric acid), salicylates (the salts of salicylic acid), tartrates (the salts of tartaric acid), lactates (the salts of lactic acid), malates (the salts of malic acid), succinates (the salts of succinic acid), benzoates (the salts of benzoic acid), fumarates (the salts of fumaric acid), maleates (the salts of maleic acid) and acetates (the salts of acetic acid).

[0129] Examples of inorganic anionic counterions include phosphates, sulfates, silicates, hydrogen phosphates, carbonates and hydrogen carbonates.

[0130] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one salt of a mono- or divalent cation (a) selected from the group consisting of Calcium citrate, magnesium citrate, sodium citrate, ammonium citrate, calcium salicylate, magnesium salicylate, sodium salicylate, ammonium salicylate, calcium phosphate, magnesium phosphate, sodium phosphate, ammonium phosphate, calcium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, ammonium sulfate, calcium tartrate, magnesium tartrate, sodium tartrate, ammonium tartrate, calcium lactate, magnesium lactate, sodium lactate, ammonium lactate, calcium malate, magnesium malate, Sodium malate, ammonium malate, calcium succinate, magnesium succinate, sodium succinate, ammonium succinate, calcium benzoate, magnesium benzoate, sodium benzoate, ammonium benzoate, calcium fumarate, magnesium fumarate, sodium fumarate, ammonium fumarate, calcium maleate, magnesium maleate, sodium maleate, ammonium maleate, calcium acetate, magnesium acetate, sodium acetate, ammonium acetate, Calcium chloride, magnesium chloride, sodium chloride, ammonium chloride, calcium bromide, Magnesium bromide, sodium bromide and / or ammonium bromide.

[0131] Calcium citrate, the calcium salt of citric acid, is a white, crystalline solid with CAS numbers 813-94-5 (anhydrous) and 5785-44-4 (tetrahydrate).

[0132] The term magnesium citrate refers to the magnesium salts of citric acid. These can be: anhydrous magnesium citrate with variable citrate-magnesium ratio Mg x (C e H 5 O 7 ) y , CAS number: 7779-25-1 tribasic magnesium citrate (trimagnesium dicitrate, C 12 H 10 Mg 3 O 14 ) and its hydrates dibasic magnesium citrate (magnesium hydrogen citrate, C 6 H 6 MgO 7 ) and its hydrates

[0133] Sodium citrate is the sodium salt of citric acid. It consists of three sodium ions (Na +< ) and the citrate ion (C 6 H 5 O 7 3-< ) and has the CAS number 68-04-2.

[0134] Calcium salicylate is the calcium salt of salicylic acid.

[0135] Magnesium salicylate is the magnesium salt of salicylic acid.

[0136] Sodium salicylate is the sodium salt of salicylic acid. It is also known as 2-hydroxybenzoic acid sodium salt and has the CAS number 54-21-7.

[0137] Calcium phosphate has the molecular formula Ca 3 (PO 4 ) 2 and has the CAS number 7758-87-4.

[0138] In food technology, magnesium phosphates are collectively known as magnesium dihydrogen phosphate, magnesium hydrogen phosphate, and magnesium phosphate. They are approved in the European Union as food additives under the common number E 343.

[0139] Sodium phosphate is a sodium salt of phosphoric acid. It consists of sodium (3Na +< ) and phosphate ions (PO 4 3-< ) and has the CAS numbers 7601-54-9, 15819-50-8 (hexahydrate), and 10101-89-0 (dodecahydrate).

[0140] Calcium sulfate has the molecular formula CaSO 4 and has the CAS number 7778-18-9 (anhydrous) or 10034-76-1 (hemihydrate), 10101-41-4 (dihydrate) or 13397-24-5 (hydrate).

[0141] Magnesium sulfate has the molecular formula MgSO4 and has the CAS number 7487-88-9 (magnesium sulfate) or 10034-99-8 (MgSO4 · 7 H2O).

[0142] Calcium tartrate is the calcium salt of tartaric acid, usually L-tartaric acid, and has the CAS numbers 3164-34-9, 5892-21-7 (tetrahydrate) and 110720-66-6 (DL).

[0143] Sodium tartrate is a sodium salt of tartaric acid with the molecular formula C 4 H 4 O 6 Na 2 and has the CAS numbers 868-18-8 (anhydrate), 6106-24-7 (dihydrate), 109175-69-1 (anhydrate), 22476-07-9 (dihydrate), 4504-50-1 (meso form) and 51307-92-7 (racemate).

[0144] Calcium lactate is the calcium salt of lactic acid and has the CAS number 814-80-2. Magnesium lactate is the magnesium salt of lactic acid.

[0145] Sodium lactate (sodium lacticum) is the sodium salt of lactic acid with the formula NaC 3 H 5 O 3 and the CAS number 72-17-3.

[0146] Calcium malate is the calcium salt of malic acid (E 296) and a food additive. Calcium malate has the CAS number 17482-42-7.

[0147] Magnesium malate is the magnesium salt of malic acid with CAS numbers 869-06-7 and 6150-86-3 (trihydrate).

[0148] Sodium malate is the sodium salt of malic acid with CAS numbers 676-46-0 (unspecified stereochemistry), 22798-10-3 (racemate), 138-09-0 (L-form) and 207511-06-6 (L-form hydrate).

[0149] Calcium succinate is the calcium salt of succinic acid.

[0150] Magnesium succinate is the magnesium salt of succinic acid.

[0151] Sodium succinate is the sodium salt of succinic acid.

[0152] Calcium benzoate is the calcium salt of benzoic acid.

[0153] Magnesium benzoate is the magnesium salt of benzoic acid.

[0154] Sodium benzoate is the sodium salt of benzoic acid.

[0155] Calcium fumarate is the calcium salt of fumaric acid and has the CAS numbers 7718-51-6 and 19855-56-2.

[0156] Magnesium fumarate is the magnesium salt of fumaric acid

[0157] Sodium fumarate is the sodium salt of fumaric acid

[0158] Calcium chloride has the molecular formula CaCl 2 and has the CAS numbers 10043-52-4 (anhydrous), 13477-29-7 (monohydrate), 10035-04-8 (dihydrate), 25094-02-4 (tetrahydrate), 7774-34-7 (hexahydrate) and 22691-02-7 (hydrate).

[0159] Calcium bromide has the molecular formula CaBr2 and the CAS numbers 7789-41-5 (anhydrous), 71626-99-8 (hydrate), 22208-73-7 (dihydrate), and 13477-28-6 (hexahydrate). Magnesium chloride has the molecular formula MgCl2 and the CAS numbers 7786-30-3 (anhydrous) and 7791-18-6 (hexahydrate).

[0160] Magnesium bromide has the molecular formula MgBr2 and has the CAS numbers 7789-48-2 and 13446-53-2 (hexahydrate).

[0161] To optimize decolorization performance, it may be preferable to use the salts of the mono- or divalent cations (a) in specific quantity ranges in the decolorizing agent. Particularly good results were obtained when the decolorizing agent contained one or more salts of mono- or divalent cations (a) in a total amount of 1.0 to 15.0 wt. %, preferably 1.5 to 13.0 wt. %, more preferably 3.0 to 12.0 wt. %, and most preferably 4.5 to 8.0 wt. %, based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent.

[0162] In a further embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - contains one or more salts of mono- or divalent cations (a) in a total amount of 1.0 to 15.0 wt.%, preferably 1.5 to 13.0 wt.%, more preferably 3.0 to 12.0 wt.% and most preferably 4.5 to 8.0 wt.%. Water content in the decolorizer

[0163] Since the decolorizing agent according to the invention is adjusted to an acidic pH in the range of 1.0 to 4.7, it contains water or comprises a water-containing carrier.

[0164] Accordingly, a first subject of the present invention is, in other words, a process for decolorizing keratin material which has been colored by applying at least one pigment, wherein a decolorizing agent which (a) contains at least one amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant, and (b) contains water and has a pH of 1.0 to 4.7, applied to the colored keratin material and rinsed off after a certain exposure time.

[0165] A particularly good removal of the excess pigments or aminosilicones was possible if the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - had a water content of 50 to 99 wt.%, preferably of 55 to 98 wt.%, more preferably of 60 to 97 wt.%, and particularly preferably of 70 to 96 wt.%.

[0166] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - has a water content of 50 to 99 wt.%, preferably of 55 to 98 wt.%, more preferably of 60 to 97 wt.%, and particularly preferably of 70 to 96 wt.%. pH value of the decolorizer

[0167] The decolorizing agent is characterized by an acidic pH value in the range of 1.0 to 4.7.

[0168] The series of experiments leading to this invention showed that the decolorization performance could be controlled by selecting the optimal pH value. A good decolorization effect was observed starting at a pH value of 4.7. However, this decolorization performance could be further improved by further lowering the pH value.

[0169] In this context, it has been found to be particularly preferred if the decolorizing agent has a pH value (b) of 1.5 to 4.6, preferably of 2.0 to 4.6, more preferably of 2.5 to 4.6, even more preferably of 3.0 to 4.6 and very particularly preferably of 3.8 to 4.6.

[0170] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent has a pH (b) of 1.5 to 4.6, preferably of 2.0 to 4.6, more preferably of 2.5 to 4.6, even more preferably of 3.0 to 4.6 and most preferably of 3.8 to 4.6. Surfactants in the decolorizer

[0171] The bleaching agent used in the process according to the invention is most preferably formulated in the form of a shampoo. It has proven particularly advantageous if the bleaching agent contains at least one surfactant, preferably at least one anionic and / or zwitterionic surfactant.

[0172] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one anionic and / or zwitterionic surfactant.

[0173] The term surfactants (T) refers to surface-active substances that form adsorption layers at surfaces and interfaces or can aggregate in bulk phases to form micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic residue and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group; amphoteric surfactants, which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge; cationic surfactants, which have a positively charged hydrophilic group in addition to a hydrophobic residue; and nonionic surfactants, which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are highly hydrated in aqueous solution.

[0174] Suitable anionic surfactants that can be used in the decolorizing agents according to the invention include: linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms (soaps), ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO-(CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -CH 2 -COOH, in which R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, acyl sarcosides with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, acyl taurides with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, acyl isethionates with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and / or dialkyl esters with 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkylpolyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms, alkyl sulfate and / or alkyl polyglycol ether sulfate salts of the formula R-(OCH 2 -CH 2 ) x -OSO 3 -< X +< , in which R is a preferably linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms, x = 0 or 1 to 12 and X is an alkali or ammonium ion,Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 8 to 24 C atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds, esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, which are addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 C atoms, alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula, , in which R 1< preferably represents an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 2< represents hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 O) n R 1< or X, n represents numbers from 0 to 10 and X represents hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR 3< R 4< R 5< R 6< , with R 3< to R 6< independently of one another representing a C 1 to C 4 hydrocarbon radical.

[0175] Particularly good results were obtained when at least one anionic surfactant of the formula (T-1) was used in the decolorizing agent, where R 1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 8 -C 30 alkyl group, x represents an integer from 0 to 50, and M represents a hydrogen atom, ammonium (NH 4 ) + or an equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation.

[0176] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one anionic surfactant of the formula (T-1), where R 1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 8 -C 30 alkyl group, x represents an integer from 0 to 50, and M represents a hydrogen atom, ammonium (NH 4 ) + or an equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation.

[0177] The residue R1 represents the hydrophobic part of the anionic surfactant and represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 alkyl group. If the residue represents an unsaturated C8-C30 alkyl group, the alkyl group can be monounsaturated or polyunsaturated.

[0178] The radical R1 preferably represents a linear, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 alkyl group. The radical R1 most preferably represents a linear, saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 alkyl group. Explicitly, the radical R1 most preferably represents a linear, saturated or unsaturated C12-C18 alkyl group.

[0179] Examples of saturated, linear C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups are the lauryl group, the myristyl group, the cetyl group, the stearyl group and the behenyl group.

[0180] The index number x indicates the number of ethylene oxide groups contained in the anionic surfactant. If x is 0, then the anionic surfactant of formula (T-1) contains no ethylene oxide units; in this case, it is an alkyl sulfate or the salt of an alkyl sulfate.

[0181] Examples of alkyl sulfate salts are sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium myristyl sulfate.

[0182] Preferably, x represents an integer from 0 to 5, particularly preferably x represents an integer from 1 to 5.

[0183] The residue M stands for a hydrogen atom, for ammonium (NH 4 ) + or for an equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation.

[0184] If M represents a hydrogen atom, the anionic surfactant is in the form of the protonated (and optionally ethoxylated) sulfuric acid ester. In aqueous solution, the protonated form is in equilibrium with the deprotonated form, with the deprotonated form carrying an anionic charge. For this reason, the protonated compounds of formula (I) also fall into the group of anionic surfactants.

[0185] If M represents ammonium (NH 4 ) + or an equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation, then the anionic surfactant of formula (I) is present in the form of its salt. The presence of the corresponding equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation ensures the electroneutrality of the anionic surfactant. M preferably represents a monovalent cation, in particular a sodium or potassium cation.

[0186] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the pretreatment agent (V) contains at least one anionic surfactant (V-1) of the formula (T-1), where R1 represents a linear, saturated or unsaturated C 12 -C 18 alkyl group, x represents an integer from 0 to 5, preferably an integer from 1 to 5, M represents a hydrogen atom or an alkali metal cation, preferably a sodium cation or a potassium cation.

[0187] A particularly preferred anionic surfactant of formula (I) can be obtained commercially from BASF, for example, under the trade name Texapon NSO BZ (BZ = preserved with benzoic acid) and the INCI name Sodium Laureth Sulfate. This Sodium Laureth Sulfate has the CAS number 68891-38-3.

[0188] To ensure particularly good decolorization performance in the process according to the invention, the decolorizing agent contains - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - one or more anionic surfactants in a total amount of 2.0 to 18.0 wt.%, preferably 4.0 to 16.0 wt.%, more preferably 6.0 to 14.0 wt.% and most preferably 8.0 to 12.0 wt.%.

[0189] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains one or more anionic surfactants in a total amount of 2.0 to 18.0 wt.%, preferably 4.0 to 16.0 wt.%, more preferably 6.0 to 14.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably 8.0 to 12.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent.

[0190] The effects achievable with the process according to the invention could be further improved if at least one zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactant was used in the decolorizing agent in addition to or instead of the anionic surfactant.

[0191] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactant.

[0192] Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants (V-2) can be selected from compounds of the following formulas (T-2), (T-3), (T-4) and / or (T-5), where R2, R3, R4, and R5 each independently represent the hydrophobic residue of the surfactant. R2, R3, R4, and R5 each independently represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 alkyl group, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated C12-C18 alkyl group.

[0193] The zwitterionic surfactants of formula (T-2), (T-3), (T-4), and / or (T-5) each possess a cationic charge in the form of a quaternary nitrogen atom, which, in addition to two methyl groups, carries the respective radical R and further comprises the radical comprising the acid function. This cationic charge is neutralized by the acid function, which can be a deprotonated carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid.

[0194] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one zwitterionic surfactant selected from the surfactants of the formula (T-2), (T-3), (T-4) and / or (T-5), where R 2 , R 3 , R 4 , R 5 independently of one another represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 8 -C 30 alkyl group, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated C 12 -C 18 alkyl group.

[0195] The radical R2 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 8 -C 30 alkyl group, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 21 alkyl group, very particularly preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 17 alkyl group

[0196] The radical R3 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 8 -C 30 alkyl group, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 21 alkyl group, very particularly preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated C 11 -C 17 alkyl group

[0197] The radical R4 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 alkyl group, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated C12-C18 alkyl group.

[0198] The radical R5 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 alkyl group, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated C12-C18 alkyl group.

[0199] Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants of formula (T-2) are alkylamidoalkyl betaines. Particularly suitable amphoteric surfactants include the surfactants known by the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine and the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine.

[0200] Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants of formula (T-3) include C 12 -C 14 alkyldimethylbetaines, which can be purchased under the INCI name Coco-Betaine in the form of the commercial product Genagen KB from Global Amines (formerly Clariant). Coco-Betaine has the CAS number 66455-29-6.

[0201] To achieve particularly good decolorization results with the process according to the invention, the decolorizing agent preferably contains the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants in specific amounts. Particularly good results were achieved when the decolorizing agent contained one or more amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants in a total amount of 0.5 to 8.5 wt. %, preferably 1.0 to 7.5 wt. %, more preferably 1.5 to 6.5 wt. %, and most preferably 2.0 to 4.5 wt. %, based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent.

[0202] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a device according to the invention

[0203] Process characterized in that the decolorizing agent - based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent - contains one or more amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants in a total amount of 0.5 to 8.5 wt.%, preferably 1.0 to 7.5 wt.%, more preferably 1.5 to 6.5 wt.% and most preferably 2.0 to 4.5 wt.%. Application of the decolorizer

[0204] Within the method according to the invention, the bleaching agent is applied to the dyed keratin material and rinsed off after a certain exposure time.

[0205] Since the bleaching agent is applied to the colored hair, the bleaching agent must be applied to the keratin material after applying the previously described coloring agent.

[0206] In other words, the bleaching agent is applied to the keratin material after the dye has been rinsed out and the keratin material has preferably been dried to determine the exact color result.

[0207] The exact time of application of the color remover depends on the user's desire to remove the unwanted or no longer needed color. For example, the color remover can be applied to the colored keratin material 12 to 24 hours after applying the colorant. In another embodiment, the user can wear the colored keratin materials, especially the hair, for a period of several days to weeks until they decide to change the color or want to return to their original hair color. other optional ingredients in the decolorizer

[0208] In addition to the components already described, the bleaching agent may also contain other optional ingredients, such as solvents, anionic, non-ionic, zwitterionic and / or cationic polymers; structuring agents such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example lecithin and cephalins; perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins; fiber structure-improving agents, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose; dyes for coloring the agent; anti-dandruff agents such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazole; amino acids and oligopeptides; protein hydrolysates of animal and / or plant origin, as well as in the form of their fatty acid condensation products or optionally anionically or cationically modified derivatives; vegetable oils; light protectants and UV blockers;Active ingredients such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, pantolactone, allantoin, pyrrolidinonecarboxylic acids and their salts and bisabolol; polyphenols, in particular hydroxycinnamic acids, 6,7-dihydroxycoumarins, hydroxybenzoic acids, catechins, tannins, leucoanthocyanidins, anthocyanidins, flavanones, flavones and flavonols; ceramides or pseudoceramides; vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors; plant extracts; fats and waxes such as fatty alcohols, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins; swelling and penetrating agents such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates; opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers; Pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate; as well as propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N2O, dimethyl ether, CO2 and air.

[0209] The expert will select these additional substances based on the desired properties of the agent. Regarding further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the expert. The additional active ingredients and excipients are preferably used in the preparations according to the invention in amounts of 0.0001 to 25 wt.%, in particular 0.0005 to 15 wt.%, based on the total weight of the respective agent. Application of the decolorizer

[0210] In the process according to the invention, the previously described decolorizing agent is applied to the colored keratin material and rinsed off again after a certain exposure time.

[0211] The application can be carried out, for example, with the (gloved) hand or with the help of an applicator, such as a brush or an applicette, or even a brush or a comb.

[0212] Depending on whether the user wants a complete bleaching or whether only certain areas or strands are to be bleached, the bleaching agent can be applied either to the entire keratin material (such as the entire head of hair) or to specific parts or corresponding strands of the keratin material or the keratin fibers.

[0213] After application, the bleaching agent is left to act on the keratin material for a specific period of time. For example, a contact time of 5 to 60 minutes, preferably 5 to 30 minutes, more preferably 5 to 15 minutes, and most preferably 5 to 10 minutes can be selected. After this contact time, the bleaching agent is rinsed out with water.

[0214] In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to the colored keratin material and is rinsed off again after an exposure time of 5 to 60 minutes, preferably 5 to 30 minutes, more preferably 5 to 15 minutes and most preferably 5 to 10 minutes.

[0215] The bleaching agent can be applied to the keratin material at room temperature or at body temperature. However, to assist or accelerate the color removal, the keratin material coated with the bleaching agent can also be exposed to elevated temperatures. According to the invention, when the bleaching agent is applied to the colored keratin material, the keratin material is heated to a temperature of 25 to 70°C, preferably 25 to 60°C, more preferably 30 to 55°C, and most preferably 40 to 55°C while the bleaching agent is applied.

[0216] Within the scope of a further embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to the colored keratin material, the keratin material is heated to a temperature of 25 to 70 °C, preferably 25 to 60 °C, more preferably 30 to 55 °C and most preferably 40 to 55 °C while the decolorizing agent is acting on it, and then the decolorizing agent is rinsed off again.

[0217] In addition to thermally assisting the bleaching process, it is also possible to subject the keratin material coated with the bleaching agent to mechanical stress in order to improve the detachment of the film formed on the keratin material during the coloring process. For example, the keratin material can be massaged with the hands or combed with a comb or brush during the bleaching process. Any other mechanical stress suitable for improving the detachment of the colored film from the keratin material under the influence of the bleaching agent is also conceivable and encompassed by the method according to the invention.

[0218] In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the bleaching agent is applied to the colored keratin material, the keratin material is combed, massaged, brushed or otherwise subjected to mechanical force while the bleaching agent is acting, and then the bleaching agent is rinsed off again.

[0219] As already described above, the color remover according to the invention can be used to remove keratin material that has been colored by applying a pigment, or at least one pigment and at least one aminosilicone. If, for example, the user notices after coloring that the color result does not meet their expectations, they can use this as an opportunity to remove the color again by applying the color remover.

[0220] Furthermore, the user can also plan a coloring and subsequent bleaching process in advance, for example, if they want to color their hair for a specific occasion and then bleach it again afterwards. For this purpose, all the products and formulations necessary for both coloring and bleaching can be provided to the user.

[0221] A second object of the present invention is therefore a method for dyeing and subsequently bleaching human hair, comprising the following steps: (1) Applying a colorant to the hair, wherein the colorant contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and at least one pigment, as already disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention, (2) Allowing the colorant to act on the hair, (3) Rinsing the colorant out of the hair, (4) Applying a decolorizing agent to the hair, wherein the decolorizing agent was disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention, (5) Allowing the decolorizing agent to act on the hair, (6) Rinsing the decolorizing agent out of the hair.

[0222] The preferred further subject of the present invention is a method for dyeing and subsequently bleaching human hair, comprising the following steps in the given order: (1) Applying a colorant to the hair, wherein the colorant contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and at least one pigment, as already disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention, (2) Allowing the colorant to act on the hair, (3) Rinsing the colorant out of the hair, (4) Applying a decolorizing agent to the hair, wherein the decolorizing agent was disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention, (5) Allowing the decolorizing agent to act on the hair, (6) Rinsing the decolorizing agent out of the hair.

[0223] The pigments and the amino-functionalized silicone polymers were already disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention. The decolorizing agent was also already disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention. Multi-component packaging unit

[0224] It is particularly convenient for the user if the corresponding coloring and decolorizing agents are provided in the form of a multi-component packaging unit.

[0225] A further subject of the present invention is therefore a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for coloring and bleaching keratin material, comprising separately packaged: a first container with a colorant, wherein the colorant contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and at least one pigment, as already disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention, and a second container with a decolorizing agent, wherein the decolorizing agent was disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention.

[0226] Regarding the further preferred embodiments of the multi-component packaging unit according to the invention and the use, mutatis mutantis what has been said about the method according to the invention. Examples 1. Formulations

[0227] The following formulations were prepared (all data in wt.% unless otherwise stated) Dye (FM) FM (wt%) Cetyl alcohol 3,0 Stearyl alcohol 3,0 Ceteareth-30, (cetearyl alcohol, ethoxylated 30 EO) 1,5 Potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0,35 Disodium hydrogen phosphate 0,72 Unipure Red LC3071, organic pigment CI 15850 1,0 1,2-Propanediol 10,0 Phenoxyethanol 0,8 Dow Corning 2-8566 (Siloxanes and Silicones, 3-[(2-Aminoethyl)amino]-2-methylpropyl Me, Di-Me-Siloxane 1,0 Sodium salicylate 0,4 Water to 100 Decolorizer (EM) (wt%) EM-1 EM-2 EM-3 EM-4 Sodium laureth sulfate (C12-C14, ethoxylated with 2 EO) 8,2 8,2 8,2 8,2 Disodium cocoamphodiacetate 2,0 2,0 2,0 2,0 Calcium citrate 5,0 5,0 --- --- Sodium sulfate --- --- 5,0 --- Magnesium sulfate --- --- --- 5,0 Dimethylcocoylbetain 1,50 1,50 1,50 1,50 Sodium hydroxide / citric acid to pH 4.5 to pH 4.1 to pH 4.4 to pH 4.7 Water to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 Decolorizer (EM) (wt%) EM-5 EM-6 EM-7 EM-8 Sodium laureth sulfate (C12-C14, ethoxylated with 2 EO) 8,2 8,2 8,2 8,2 Disodium cocoamphodiacetate 2,0 2,0 2,0 2,0 Potassium citrate 5,0 --- --- --- Ammonium citrate --- 5,0 --- --- Magnesium citrate --- --- 5,0 --- Sodium citrate --- --- --- 5,0 Dimethylcocoylbetain 1,50 1,50 1,50 1,50 Sodium hydroxide / citric acid to pH 4.7 to pH 4.5 to pH 4.6 to pH 4.6 Water to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 Decolorizer (EM) (wt%) EM-9 EM-10 EM-11 EM-12 Sodium laureth sulfate (C12-C14, ethoxylated with 2 EO) 8,2 8,2 8,2 8,2 Disodium cocoamphodiacetate 2,0 2,0 2,0 2,0 Sodium phosphate 5,0 --- --- --- Magnesium phosphate --- 5,0 --- --- Calcium phosphate --- --- 5,0 --- Sodium salicylate --- --- --- 5,0 Dimethylcocoylbetain 1,50 1,50 1,50 1,50 Sodium hydroxide / citric acid to pH 4.4 to pH 4.5 to pH 4.2 to pH 4.4 Water to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 2. Application

[0228] A strand of hair (Kerling, Euronaturhaar white) was measured with a Datacolor colorimeter, type Spectraflash 450.

[0229] After preparation, the dye (FM) was applied to hair strands (Kerling, Euronaturhaar white). The dye was left on for three minutes. The hair strands were then thoroughly rinsed with water (1 minute), dried, and left to rest for 24 hours.

[0230] One of the dyed strands was measured again with a Datacolor colorimeter, type Spectraflash 450.

[0231] The bleaching agent was applied to each dyed strand of hair, massaged in for 5 minutes, and then rinsed with water. The bleached hair was allowed to dry and then colorimetrically measured.

[0232] The dE value used to assess color retention is derived from the L*a*b* color measurement values ​​measured on the respective strand section as follows: dE = L i − L 0 2 + a i − a 0 2 + b i − b 0 1 / 2 L 0 , a 0 and b 0 = measured values ​​of the undyed strand L i , ai and bi = measured values ​​of the dyed / bleached strand

[0233] The smaller the dE value, the smaller the color difference compared to the uncolored strand and the better the bleaching effect. L a b dE Decolorization performance Hair strand Euronaturhaar white, uncolored 73,2 2,6 22,1 --- --- Staining with (FM) 38,6 48,9 11,2 --- --- Staining with (FM) and destaining with (EM-1) 48,7 29,8 7,8 39,5 medium Staining with (FM) and destaining with (EM-2) 64,2 17,2 9,5 21,4 good Staining with (FM) and destaining with (EM-3) 53,3 33,0 8,0 39,2 medium Staining with (FM) and destaining with (EM-4) 57,1 16,0 3,2 28,3 good Staining with (FM) and destaining with (EM-5) 53,3 30,6 7,1 37,7 medium Staining with (FM) and destaining with (EM-6) 53,9 24,6 9,1 32,2 medium Staining with (FM) and destaining with (EM-7) 65,8 12,2 9,5 17,6 good Staining with (FM) and destaining with (EM-8) 62,6 14,8 11,2 19,6 good Staining with (FM) and destaining with (EM-9) 55,8 30,4 9,9 35,1 medium Staining with (FM) and destaining with (EM-10) 58,5 17,7 3,3 28,3 good Staining with (FM) and destaining with (EM-11) 65,6 12,1 10,2 17,1 good Staining with (FM) and destaining with (EM-12) 67,2 13,1 12,7 15,5 good dE = color difference to untreated hair

Claims

1. Process for decolorizing keratin material which has been colored by applying at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and at least one pigment, wherein a decolorizing agent which (a) contains at least one salt of a monovalent or divalent cation, and (b) has a pH of 1.0 to 4.7, is applied to the dyed keratin material and rinsed off after a reaction time.

2. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been dyed by applying at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer with at least one secondary amino group.

3. Method according to one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by the application of at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer which comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (Si-amino) where ALK1 and ALK2 independently represent a linear or branched, divalent C1-C20 alkylene group.

4. Method according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by the application of at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer which comprises structural units of the formula (Si-I) and the formula (Si-II) 5. Process according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by the application of at least one inorganic pigment, the inorganic pigment being preferably selected from the group consisting of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or colored pigments based on mica or micaceous materials coated with at least one metal oxide and / or a metal oxychloride.

6. Method according to any of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the decolorizing agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by applying at least one organic pigment, the organic pigment being preferably selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the Color Index numbers Cl 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with Color Index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with Color Index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with Color Index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 1 5630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 754 70.

7. Method according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one salt of a monovalent or divalent cation (a) selected from the group consisting of calcium salts, magnesium salts, sodium salts, potassium salts, and ammonium salts.

8. Method according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one salt of a monovalent or divalent cation (a) selected from the group consisting of - calcium citrate, magnesium citrate, sodium citrate, ammonium citrate, - calcium salicylate, magnesium salicylate, sodium salicylate, ammonium salicylate, - calcium phosphate, magnesium phosphate, sodium phosphate, ammonium phosphate, - calcium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, ammonium sulfate, - calcium tartrate, magnesium tartrate, sodium tartrate, ammonium tartrate, - calcium lactate, magnesium lactate, sodium lactate, ammonium lactate, - calcium malate, magnesium malate, sodium malate, ammonium malate, - calcium succinate, magnesium succinate, sodium succinate, ammonium succinate, - calcium benzoate, magnesium benzoate, sodium benzoate, ammonium benzoate, - calcium fumarate, magnesium fumarate, sodium fumarate, ammonium fumarate, - calcium maleate, magnesium maleate, sodium maleate, ammonium maleate, - calcium acetate, magnesium acetate, sodium acetate, ammonium acetate, - calcium chloride, magnesium chloride, sodium chloride, ammonium chloride, - calcium bromide, magnesium bromide, sodium bromide and / or ammonium bromide.

9. Method according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains, based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent, one or more salts of monovalent or divalent cations (a) in a total amount of 1.0 to 15.0 wt. -%, preferably 1.5 to 13.0 wt.%, more preferably 3.0 to 12.0 wt.% and most preferably 4.5 to 8.0 wt.%.

10. Process according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that that the decolorizing agent has a pH value (b) of 1.5 to 4.6, preferably of 2.0 to 4.6, more preferably of 2.5 to 4.6, even more preferably of 3.0 to 4.6, and most preferably of 3.8 to 4.6.

11. Method according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one anionic and / or zwitterionic surfactant.

12. Method according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one anionic surfactant of formula (T-1), where R1 stands for a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 alkyl group, x stands for an integer from 0 to 50, and M stands for a hydrogen atom, for ammonium (NH4)+ or for an equivalent of a monovalent or polyvalent cation.

13. Method according to any of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains, based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent, one or more anionic surfactants in a total amount of 2.0 to 18.0 wt.%, preferably 4.0 to 16.0 wt. -%, more preferably from 4.0 to 16.0 wt.% and most preferably from 8.0 to 12.0 wt.%.

14. Method according to one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains at least one zwitterionic surfactant selected from the surfactants of formula (T-2), (T-3), (T-4) and / or (T-5), where R2, R3, R4, R5 independently of one another represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 alkyl group, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated C12-C18 alkyl group.

15. Method according to one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that the decolorizing agent contains, based on the total weight of the decolorizing agent, one or more amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants in a total amount of 0.5 to 8.5 wt.%, preferably 1.0 to 7.5 wt. -%, more preferably 1.5 to 6.5 wt.%, and most preferably 2.0 to 4.5 wt.%.

16. Process for dyeing and subsequent decolorizing human hair, comprising the following steps: (1) applying a dyeing agent to the hair, wherein the dyeing agent contains at least one aminofunctionalized silicone polymer and at least one pigment as defined in claims 1 to 6, (2) allowing the dyeing agent to act on the hair, (3) rinsing the dyeing agent out of the hair, (4) applying a decolorant to the hair, wherein the decolorant is defined in claims 1 to 15, (5) allowing the decolorant to act on the hair, (6) rinsing the decolorant from the hair.