LEAVE-IN HAIR CARE EMULSION

Description

[0001] The invention relates to silicone-free leave-in emulsions for hair treatment based on an active ingredient mixture of Caesalpinia spinosa gum, fatty alcohol(s), and cationic or cationizable surfactants. The invention further relates to the use of these emulsions for hair care.

[0002] Not least due to the heavy strain on hair, such as dyeing or perming, frequent cleaning with shampoos and subsequent drying with hairdryer heat, as well as environmental pollution, the importance of hair care products is constantly increasing.

[0003] At the same time, the issue of sustainability, driven by a steadily growing need among consumers, is increasingly coming into focus for cosmetics manufacturers.

[0004] In addition to readily biodegradable ingredients, there is also a desire, in times of increasing water scarcity, for products whose use is not linked to increased water consumption. For example, rinsing off a conventional rinse-off hair care product in the shower consumes several liters of water during normal use.

[0005] Leave-in hair care products such as hair masks or hair treatments are well-known and readily available. A large proportion of these products contain silicones, as these provide hair with a variety of conditioning benefits.

[0006] When providing sustainable products, the use of silicones is largely avoided, but this usually leads to disadvantages in the care performance of the products.

[0007] Furthermore, especially with the regular use of leave-in products, care must be taken to ensure that no heavy buildup effect occurs, which gives the hair an unaesthetic appearance.

[0008] The product "Nano Plex pH Balanced Mask" (Mintel ID: 8901903) comprises a fatty alcohol-based hair mask containing tara gum, cationic surfactants and traces of water.

[0009] US 2020 / 323753 concerns rinse-off hair care compositions, including fatty alcohols and cationic surfactants. US 2018 / 071195 discloses a styling cream containing, among other things, silicones and cationic polysaccharide polymers.

[0010] The present application was based on the objective of providing sustainable, silicone-free hair care products that remain on the hair after application and do not need to be rinsed out. The products should ensure an optimal balance between long-lasting care, good tolerability, and good environmental compatibility on treated hair, and should not cause a build-up effect.

[0011] It has been found that the use of Caesalpinia spinosa gum (Tara gum) in emulsion-based, classic - i.e. containing cationic and / or cationizable surfactants as well as fatty alcohols - leave-in hair care products leads to unexpected care benefits that, despite the absence of silicones, are approximately equivalent to the care potential of silicone-containing products.

[0012] A first subject matter of the present application is therefore a silicone-free leave-in emulsion for the treatment of hair, which a) Caesalpinia spinosa gum in a weight fraction of 0.01 - 3 wt% of the total weight of the leave-in emulsion, b) at least one C 16 - C 24 fatty alcohol in a weight fraction of 1 - 15 wt% of the total weight of the leave-in emulsion, c) at least one cationic or cationizable surfactant in a weight fraction of 0.5 - 5 wt% of the total weight of the leave-in emulsion and d) water in a weight fraction of 75-85 wt%.

[0013] The application of the silicone-free leave-in hair care emulsions according to the invention leads not only to care benefits such as improved combability, softness, and suppleness of the hair, but also, in particular, to a significantly enhanced hair shine. The leave-in hair care emulsions contain a high proportion of ingredients of natural origin.

[0014] Furthermore, they are stable in terms of storage and temperature, can be distributed perfectly in wet or dry hair and can remain in the hair until the next hair wash.

[0015] Suitable leave-in hair care emulsions within the meaning of the present invention are understood to be products that remain on the hair after application until the next washing, such as hairsprays, hairsprays, hair styling products, blow-dry lotions, mousses, hair gels, hair waxes, leave-in hair treatments, leave-in packs, or leave-in hair masks. Leave-in hair treatments, leave-in packs, or leave-in hair masks are particularly preferred among the leave-in hair care emulsions according to the invention.

[0016] For the purposes of the invention, the term "emulsion" preferably refers to liquid, free-flowing or solid oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, multiple emulsions (such as O / W / O or W / O / W emulsions), macroemulsions, miniemulsions, microemulsions, PIT emulsions, nanoemulsions, Pickering emulsions or foams.

[0017] Preferably, the leave-in emulsions according to the invention are to be understood as liquid or free-flowing oil-in-water emulsions or microemulsions.

[0018] Within the scope of the invention, the term microemulsions encompasses not only thermodynamically stable microemulsions but also so-called PIT emulsions. These are systems consisting of the three components water, oil, and emulsifier, which exist as oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions at room temperature. Upon heating these systems, microemulsions form within a specific temperature range (referred to as the phase inversion temperature or PIT temperature), which then transform into water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions upon further heating. Subsequent cooling results in the re-formation of O / W emulsions, which exist at room temperature either as microemulsions or as very finely divided emulsions with a mean particle diameter below 400 nm, and particularly below 100–300 nm.

[0019] The emulsions according to the invention comprise at least one water phase and one fat (or oil) phase, which is preferably liquid or flowable.

[0020] The first essential ingredient of the hair care emulsions according to the invention is Caesalpinia spinosa gum.

[0021] Caesalpinia spinosa Gum (Tara Gum) is a natural, non-toxic and completely biodegradable non-ionic polysaccharide used in cosmetic products as a texturizing, thickening or stabilizing agent.

[0022] Caesalpinia spinosa gum (Tara gum) is obtained from the seeds of Tara spinosa – a small, thorny legume tree native to Peru. Tara gum consists of mannose and galactose units.

[0023] The emulsions according to the invention have a particularly pleasant texture and feel due to their content of Caesalpinia spinosa gum. They are non-sticky, non-stringy, and feel exceptionally soft.

[0024] In addition, Caesalpinia spinosa Gum (Tara Gum) creates a light, continuous film on the hair fibers, resulting in a smoothing and excellent shine effect.

[0025] Caesalpinia spinosa gum (Tara gum) is preferably used in the leave-in emulsions according to the invention in a weight fraction of 0.02 - 2.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.03 - 2 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.04 - 1.75 wt.% and especially preferably 0.05 - 1.5 wt.% of the total weight of the emulsions.

[0026] As a second essential ingredient, hair care emulsions according to the invention contain at least one C 16 -C 24 fatty alcohol as a fat component, emulsifier, consistency enhancer and / or thickening agent.

[0027] Suitable C16-C24 fatty alcohols according to the present invention can be saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, and selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof. Cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.

[0028] The at least one C 16 -C 24 fatty alcohol is preferably used in the leave-in emulsions according to the invention in a weight fraction of 1.5 - 14 wt.%, more preferably 2 - 12.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 2.5 - 11 wt.% and especially preferably 3 - 10 wt.% of the total weight of the emulsions.

[0029] In a preferred embodiment, emulsions according to the invention contain cetearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol or mixtures thereof in a weight fraction of 1 - 15 wt.% of the total weight in the leave-in emulsion.

[0030] As a third essential ingredient, hair care emulsions according to the invention contain at least one cationic or cationizable surfactant as a hair-conditioning active ingredient.

[0031] Suitable cationic or cationizable surfactants can be selected from Compounds of the general formula (V) wherein R12, R13, R14 independently represent a C1-C6 alkyl group, a C2-C6 alkenyl group or a C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl group, R15 represents a C8-C28 alkyl group, preferably a C10-C22 alkyl group and X represents a physiologically acceptable anion, compounds of general formula (VI), wherein R 16 represents a C1-C6 alkyl group, R 17 , R 18 independently represent a C7-C27 alkyl group, preferably a C10-C22 alkyl group and X represents a physiologically acceptable anion, compounds of general formula (VII) wherein R 19 , R 20 independently represent a C1-C6 alkyl group or a C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl group, R 21 , R 22 independently represent a C7-C27 alkyl group, preferably a C10-C22 alkyl group, and X represents a physiologically acceptable anion, compounds of general formula (VIII) NR 23 R 24 R 25 (VIII) wherein R 23 , R 24 independently represent a C1-C6 alkyl group, a C2-C6 alkenyl group, or a C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl group, and R 25 represents a C8-C28 alkyl group, preferably a C10-C22 alkyl group. The cationic surfactants of formula (VIII) are amine derivatives, so-called pseudoquats. The organic residues R23, R24, and R25 are directly bonded to the nitrogen atom. In acidic pH conditions, these become cationized, meaning the nitrogen atom is protonated (cationizable surfactants). Physiologically compatible counterions are suitable.

[0032] Preferably, the emulsions according to the invention contain at least one cationic or cationizable surfactant according to formula (VII) or (VIII).

[0033] Compounds of formula (VII) are also known as esterquats. Preferred compounds of formula (VII) are those known under the INCI names Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Chloride, Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride, Distearoylethyl Dimonium Methosulfate, Dicocoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, Dicocoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Chloride, Dipalmitoylethyldimonium Chloride, Behenoyl PG Trimonium Chloride, and mixtures thereof.

[0034] Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate or Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride are particularly preferred.

[0035] Suitable compounds (VIII) may preferably be selected from compounds known under the INCI names brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinolamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, and palmamidopropyl dimethylamine, as well as mixtures thereof. Brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.

[0036] Amidoamines can also be permanently cationic in the compositions according to the invention. Suitable examples of permanently cationic amidoamines are, for example, the compounds known under the INCI names behenamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, behenamidopropyl-PG-dimonium chloride, oleamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, oleamidopropyl-PG-dimonium chloride, cocamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, cocamidopropyltrimonium chloride, ricinoleamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, rinoleamidopropyltrimonium chloride, ricinoleamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, undecylenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, lauramidopropyl-PG-dimonium chloride and / or canolamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate.

[0037] The at least one cationic or cationizable surfactant is preferably used in the leave-in emulsions according to the invention in a weight fraction of 0.6 - 4.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.75 - 4.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.9 - 3.5 wt.% and especially preferably 1 - 3 wt.% of the total weight of the emulsions.

[0038] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the emulsions according to the invention contain at least one esterquat, preferably distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride or mixtures thereof in the aforementioned quantities.

[0039] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the emulsions according to the invention contain at least one amidoamine, preferably brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof in the aforementioned quantities.

[0040] To further improve the hair care properties, the emulsions according to the invention can contain additional active ingredients and excipients, which preferably originate from natural sources and / or are biodegradable, and which impart further advantageous properties. Suitable additional active ingredients and excipients can, for example, be selected from Polyols, trimethylglycine, esters of caprylic acid, capric acid or mixtures thereof and fatty alcohols from coconut oil, sorbitan or glycerin, cationic polymers of natural origin, vegetable oils, vegetable butters, plant waxes or mixtures thereof, non-ionic emulsifiers or mixtures of these active ingredients and excipients.

[0041] For the purposes of the present invention, suitable polyols are understood to be ethyl diglycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, triglycerin, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, sorbitan or mixtures of these polyols.

[0042] Polyols support the conditioning effect of the active ingredients in the emulsions according to the invention and promote better solubilization of oils and / or fats. This eliminates the need for additional (synthetic) solubilizing agents. Glycerin is a particularly preferred polyol, which can be a component of the carrier in the compositions according to the invention.

[0043] Polyols can preferably be used in the emulsions according to the invention in a weight fraction of 0.1–20 wt.% of the total weight of the emulsions. Preferred amounts are 0.25–17.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.5–15 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.75–12.5 wt.%, and especially 1–10 wt.%.

[0044] In a preferred embodiment, the leave-in emulsions according to the invention contain glycerin in a weight fraction of 1 - 10 wt.% of the total weight of the leave-in emulsions.

[0045] Trimethylglycine (betaine) is a well-known amino acid derivative used in cosmetics, derived from natural sources such as sugar beet molasses. It is marketed, for example, by Evonik under the name Tego®< Natural Betaine and is used as a humectant in skin treatments and as a firming agent in hair treatments.

[0046] It has been observed that the hair-conditioning properties of the previously discussed ingredients can be further enhanced by adding trimethylglycine. Specifically, the detangling and combability of dry hair, as well as the soft feel of the hair right down to the ends, can be improved by adding trimethylglycine.

[0047] Trimethylglycine can preferably be used in the emulsions according to the invention in a weight fraction of 0.05–3 wt.% of the total weight of the emulsions. Preferred amounts are 0.05–2.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.075–2 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1–1.5 wt.%, and especially 0.1–1 wt.%.

[0048] In a preferred embodiment, the leave-in emulsions according to the invention contain trimethylglycine in a weight fraction of 0.1 - 1 wt.% of the total weight of the leave-in emulsions.

[0049] To support the conditioning effect of the active ingredients a) to c), the hair care emulsions according to the invention may additionally contain at least one ester of caprylic acid, capric acid, or mixtures thereof, and fatty alcohols from coconut oil, sorbitan, or glycerin. Corresponding compounds are commercially available, for example, under the INCI names caprylic / capric triglyceride, coco caprylate, and sorbitan caprylate.

[0050] These types of esters can coat the hair fibers particularly well without leaving a greasy film. The smoothness and shine of the treated hair fibers can be further improved by adding these types of esters to the emulsions according to the invention.

[0051] Esters of caprylic acid, capric acid, or mixtures thereof, and fatty alcohols from coconut oil, sorbitan, or glycerin can preferably be used in the emulsions according to the invention in a weight fraction of 0.05–5 wt.% of the total weight of the emulsions. Preferred amounts are 0.1–4.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.25–4 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.4–3.5 wt.%, and especially 0.5–3 wt.%.

[0052] In a preferred embodiment, leave-in emulsions according to the invention contain the INCI names Coco Caprylate, Sorbitan Caprylate, Caprylic / capric Triglyceride, known esters or mixtures thereof.

[0053] The addition of cationic polymers to the emulsions according to the invention can contribute to the deposition of the conditioning agents contained therein onto the hair fibers and thus enhance the conditioning effect. Preferably, cationic polymers from natural sources are used in the emulsions according to the invention.

[0054] Suitable cationic polymers according to the present invention can be selected from quaternized cellulose polymers, especially polyquaternium-10, as commercially available under the names Celquat® and Polymer JR®, hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives, for example, the cationic polymers marketed under the trade name SoftCat®, cationic alkyl polyglycosides, cationized honey, for example, the commercial product Honeyquat® 50, cationic guar derivatives, such as, in particular, the products marketed under the trade names Cosmedia® Guar, N-Hance®, and Jaguar®, cationic starches, cationic inulin polymers, such as the compounds known under the INCI name Hydroxypropyltrimonium Inulin, cationic cassia polymers, such as the compounds known under the INCI name Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, cationic Caesalpinia spinosa polymers,such as the compounds known under the INCI name Caesalpinia spinosa hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

[0055] Preferred cationic polymers for use in the emulsions according to the invention are the compounds known under the INCI names Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Caesalpinia spinosa hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride or mixtures thereof.

[0056] Cationic polymers of natural origin can preferably be used in the emulsions according to the invention in a weight fraction of 0.01–1 wt.% of the total weight of the emulsions. Preferred amounts are 0.2–0.9 wt.%, more preferably 0.03–0.8 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.04–0.7 wt.%, and especially 0.05–0.6 wt.%.

[0057] In a preferred embodiment, the leave-in emulsions according to the invention contain at least one cationic guar, cassia or caesalpinia spinosa polymer and mixtures thereof, preferably cationic polymers known under the INCI names Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Caesalpinia spinosa hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

[0058] To further enhance the conditioning properties and / or improve the rheological properties of the emulsions according to the invention, it can be advantageous for them to also contain at least one cosmetic oil. Suitable cosmetic oils within the meaning of the present invention are understood to be natural, vegetable oils. Vegetable oils (and / or butters and / or waxes) – even when used in low concentrations – can, in combination with the active ingredient combination a), b), c), further enhance the aforementioned conditioning benefits on the hair without causing a build-up effect with regular use. Furthermore, vegetable oils (and / or butters and / or waxes) in the conditioning active ingredient mixture of the emulsions according to the invention also contribute to hair care, in particular to improving hair shine.

[0059] Examples of suitable natural vegetable oils according to the invention are, for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, canola oil, cranberry oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, rosehip seed oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, cherry kernel oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn germ oil, mallow oil, almond oil, mango kernel oil, marula oil, melon seed oil, poppy seed oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, passion fruit oil, peach kernel oil, rambutan oil, rapeseed oil, rice bran oil, castor oil, sacha inchi oil, safflower oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn kernel oil, sasanqua oil. Sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, tea tree oil, grapeseed oil, tsubaki oil, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, meadowfoam oil, rosehip oil, berry wax, apple wax, lemon wax, rice wax, sunflower wax, candelilla wax, Japan wax, jasmine wax, rose waxCarnauba wax or mixtures thereof.

[0060] Preferred oils include apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, argan oil, rosehip seed oil, jojoba oil, cherry kernel oil, coconut oil, almond oil, marula oil, melon seed oil, olive oil, passion fruit oil, peach kernel oil, castor oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, wheat germ oil, cocoa butter, shea butter or mixtures thereof.

[0061] The teaching according to the invention also includes the fact that at least two natural, vegetable oils can be mixed together.

[0062] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment products according to the invention contain a mixture of natural, vegetable oils, preferably a mixture of vegetable oils and / or vegetable butters and in particular a mixture of avocado oil with shea butter.

[0063] The vegetable oil(s) (and / or butter(s) and / or wax(s)) can preferably be used in the emulsions according to the invention in a weight fraction of 0.01 to 5 wt.% of the total weight of the emulsions. Preferred amounts are 0.025 to 4.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.05 to 4 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.075 to 3.5 wt.%, and especially 0.1 to 3 wt.%.

[0064] The emulsions according to the invention may optionally contain one or more - preferably non-ionic - emulsifier(s) for stabilization.

[0065] Emulsifiers cause the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers at the phase interface, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Like surfactants, emulsifiers are therefore composed of a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic molecular part. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferentially form oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions, and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferentially form water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions. An emulsion is understood to be a droplet-shaped distribution (dispersion) of one liquid in another liquid, achieved by the expenditure of energy to create stabilizing phase interfaces using surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed, the respective external phase, and the fineness of the emulsion. Examples of suitable emulsifiers according to the invention include: Addition products of 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, C12-C22 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide to polyols with 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol, ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides, C8-C22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, wherein degrees of oligomerization of 1.1 to 5, in particular 1.2 to 2.0, and Glucose is preferred as the sugar component, mixtures of alkyl (oligo)glucosides and fatty alcohols, for example the commercially available product Montanov ®< 202 or Montanov ®< 68, adsorption products of 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide to castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,Partial esters of polyols with 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, sterols. Sterols are a group of steroids that have a hydroxyl group at carbon atom 3 of the steroid backbone and are isolated from both animal tissue (zoosterols) and plant fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol, and sitosterol. Sterols, the so-called mycosterols, are also isolated from fungi and yeasts. Phospholipids. This category primarily includes glucose phospholipids, which are obtained, for example, as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from egg yolks or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans). Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol, polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (trade product Dehymuls ®< PGPH),Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and their sodium, potassium, ammonium, calcium, magnesium, and zinc salts.

[0066] Preferably, according to the present invention, non-ethoxylated emulsifiers or emulsifier mixtures are used. Emulsifier mixtures of alkyl(oligo)glucosides and fatty alcohols, such as mixtures of arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and arachidyl glucoside, have proven particularly suitable for use in the emulsions according to the invention.

[0067] The non-ionic emulsifier(s) can be used in the compositions according to the invention in a weight fraction of 0.01 - 3 wt.% of the total weight of the emulsions.

[0068] In a preferred embodiment, the leave-in emulsions according to the invention contain a non-ionic emulsifier known under the INCI name arachidyl glucoside in the aforementioned amounts.

[0069] In a further preferred embodiment, the leave-in emulsions according to the invention contain mixtures of arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside in the aforementioned amounts.

[0070] In addition to the active substances described above, the emulsions according to the invention may contain further ingredients. This group of further ingredients includes, in particular, cosmetically active substances, excipients, and additives.

[0071] A first group of optional ingredients are the so-called fats or oils, which have already been described earlier in this application.

[0072] Other suitable active ingredients, excipients, and additives include, in particular, additional conditioning agents. The hair treatment product may, for example, contain at least one protein hydrolysate and / or one of its derivatives as a conditioning agent. Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid-catalyzed, base-catalyzed, or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins. According to the invention, the term "protein hydrolysates" encompasses total hydrolysates, individual amino acids and their derivatives, as well as mixtures of different amino acids. The molecular mass of the protein hydrolysates usable according to the invention ranges from 75 (the molecular mass of glycine) to 200,000 Daltons, with a molecular mass preferably being between 75 and 50,000 Daltons and most preferably between 75 and 20,000 Daltons.

[0073] As conditioning agents, the emulsions according to the invention can also contain at least one vitamin, one provitamin, one vitamin precursor substance and / or one of their derivatives. According to the invention, vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors that are normally assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H are preferred.

[0074] The emulsions according to the invention can also contain at least one plant extract as a conditioning agent, but also monosaccharides or oligosaccharides and / or lipids.

[0075] The cosmetic emulsion disclosed herein may also contain a perfume in a preferred amount (based on the total weight of the emulsion) of 0.1 to 3.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.2 to 2.5 wt.%.

[0076] By combining the essential and optional ingredients described, it is possible to provide easy and quick-to-apply silicone-free leave-in emulsions for hair care that can be applied to the entire length of the hair, right down to the tips. Examples:

[0077] All quantities given are parts by weight. The following leave-in hair care emulsions were prepared using known manufacturing processes.

[0078] The weight percentage of water in each example is 75-85 wt.%. Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Caesalpinia spinosa Gum 0,01 - 3 0,02 - 2,5 0,03 - 2 0,04 - 1,75 0,05 - 1,5 C16-C24 fatty alcohols 1 - 15 1,5 - 14 2 - 12,5 2,5 - 11 3-10 cationic or cationizable surfactant 0,5 - 5 0,6 - 4,5 0,75 - 4,0 0,9 - 3,5 1 - 3 Water and, if applicable, other excipients and active ingredients to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 Example 6 Example 7 Example 8 Example 9 Example 10 Caesalpinia spinosa Gum 0,01 - 3 0,02 - 2,5 0,03 - 2 0,04 - 1,75 0,05 - 1,5 Cetearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and / or behenyl alcohol 1 - 15 1,5 - 14 2 - 12,5 2,5 - 11 3-10 cationic or cationizable surfactant 0,5 - 5 0,6 - 4,5 0,75 - 4,0 0,9 - 3,5 1 - 3 Water and, if applicable, other excipients and active ingredients to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 Example 11 Example 12 Example 13 Example 14 Example 15 Caesalpinia spinosa Gum 0,01 - 3 0,02 - 2,5 0,03 - 2 0,04 - 1,75 0,05 - 1,5 C16-C24 fatty alcohols 1 - 15 1,5 - 14 2 - 12,5 2,5 - 11 3-10 cationic or cationizable surfactant* 0,5 - 5 0,6 - 4,5 0,75 - 4,0 0,9 - 3,5 1 - 3 Water and, if applicable, other excipients and active ingredients to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 * Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride, Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine and / or Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine Example 16 Example 17 Example 18 Example 19 Example 20 Caesalpinia spinosa Gum 0,01 - 3 0,01 - 3 0,01 - 3 0,01 - 3 0,01 - 3 C16-C24 fatty alcohols 1 - 15 1 - 15 1 - 15 1 - 15 1 - 15 cationic or cationizable surfactant 0,5 - 5 0,5 - 5 0,5 - 5 0,5 - 5 0,5 - 5 Glycerin 1 - 10 Trimethylglycin 0,05 - 3 Esters of caprylic acid, capric acid or mixtures thereof and fatty alcohols from coconut oil, sorbitan or glycerin 0,05 - 5 cationic polymer 0,01 - 1 non-ionic emulsifier 0,01 - 3 Water and, if applicable, other excipients and active ingredients to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 Example 21 Example 22 Example 23 Example 24 Example 25 Caesalpinia spinosa Gum 0,01 - 3 0,01 - 3 0,01 - 3 0,01 - 3 0,01 - 3 Cetearyl alcohol 1 - 15 1 - 15 1 - 15 1 - 15 1 - 15 Distearoylethyl dimonium chloride and / or behenamidopropyl dimethylamine 0,5 - 5 0,55 0,55 0,55 0,5 - 5 Glycerin 1 - 10 1 - 10 1 - 10 1 - 10 Trimethylglycin 0,05 - 3 0,05 - 3 0,05 - 3 0,05 - 3 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 0,05 - 5 0,05 - 5 Sorbitan Caprylate 0,05 - 5 Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride 0,01 - 1 0,01 - 1 Montanov ®< 202* 0,01 - 3 0,01 - 3 0,01 - 3 Water and, if applicable, other excipients and active ingredients to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 * Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside (Seppic)

[0079] The exemplary leave-in hair care emulsions give treated hair good care properties, especially more smoothness and shine.

Claims

1. Silicone-free leave-in emulsion for the treatment of hair, comprising a) Caesalpinia spinosa gum in a proportion of 0.01 - 3 % by weight of the total weight of the leave-in emulsion, b) at least one C16-C24 fatty alcohol in a proportion of 1 - 15 % by weight of the total weight of the leave-in emulsion, c) at least one cationic or cationizable surfactant in a proportion of 0.5 - 5% by weight of the total weight of the leave-in emulsion and d) Water in a proportion of 75-85% by weight.

2. The leave-in emulsion according to claim wherein the C16-C24 fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol or mixtures thereof.

3. Leave-in emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic or cationizable surfactant is selected from esterquats, amidoamines or mixtures thereof, preferably from compounds known under the INCI designations brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride and mixtures thereof.

4. A leave-in emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising glycerol in a proportion of 1 - 10% by weight of the total weight in the leave-in emulsion.

5. A leave-in emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, additionally comprising at least one hair conditioning agent selected from - Trimethylglycine (Betaine), - Esters of caprylic acid, capric acid or mixtures thereof and fatty alcohols from coconut oil, sorbitan or glycerol, - cationic polymers of natural origin, - vegetable oils, plant butters, plant waxes - or mixtures thereof.

6. A leave-in emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising trimethylglycine (betaines) in a proportion by weight of 0.05 - 3% by weight of the total weight of the leave-in emulsion.

7. Leave-in emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, comprising an ester known under the INCI designation Coco Caprylate, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride or Sorbitan Caprylate.

8. A leave-in emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one cationic guar, cassia or caesalpinia spinosa polymer and mixtures thereof.

9. A leave-in emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one vegetable oil, a vegetable butter, a vegetable wax or mixtures thereof in a proportion by weight of 0.01 - 5% by weight of the total weight of the leave-in emulsion.

10. A leave-in emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a non-ionic emulsifier in a proportion by weight of 0.01 - 3% by weight of the total weight of the leave-in emulsion.

11. Use of a leave-in emulsion according to any of the preceding claims for the care of hair.