CREAM-FORMING SKINCARE OIL

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic preparation containing diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate, fermented olive oil and one or more oils having a surface tension of less than 31 mN / m.

[0002] The desire to look beautiful and attractive is deeply rooted in human nature. Although the ideal of beauty has evolved over time, the pursuit of a flawless appearance has always been a human goal. The condition and appearance of the skin plays a significant role in achieving a beautiful and attractive appearance.

[0003] In order for the skin to fully fulfill its biological functions, it requires regular cleansing and care. Skin care products, usually creams, ointments, or lotions, generally serve to moisturize and replenish the skin's oils. They often contain active ingredients designed to regenerate the skin and, for example, prevent or reduce premature aging (e.g., the formation of fine lines and wrinkles).

[0004] Skin care products are typically offered in two different forms. The majority of products are based on emulsions, in which a water and an oil phase are visually homogeneously blended. A smaller portion of products are presented in the form of skin oils without their own water phase.

[0005] Not least due to volume and weight savings and the resulting conservation of natural resources during production, transport, and storage, skin care oils have recently become more of a focus in the development of cosmetic preparations. When re-moisturizing with lipid components is the primary focus of skin care, this product form is of particular interest.

[0006] A disadvantage of the current technology, however, is that skin care oils are difficult to apply to wet or moist skin. They usually just bead up and roll off the skin, preventing the lipid components from being absorbed.

[0007] Mintel GNPD Record ID 7529127 "Jacqueline's Blend Extraordinary Face Oil," April 2020, shows a water-free skin care oil composition containing fermented olive oil and various oils. EP2749651 A2 discloses a fermented vegetable oil, e.g., fermented olive oil, that has improved emulsifying properties.

[0008] The objective of the present invention was therefore to develop a skin care oil that can be easily applied and distributed on wet skin. Ideally, the skin care oil should be particularly skin- and environmentally friendly and be based largely on raw materials of natural origin.

[0009] Surprisingly, the task is solved by a water-free cosmetic preparation containing a) Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate b) Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate, c) fermented olive oil d) one or more oils with a surface tension of less than 31 mN / m.

[0010] According to the invention, the surface tension is measured using the Tensiometer K100 from Krüss (Du Noüy-Ring) with a ring against air at 20°C.

[0011] While there have been repeated attempts in the past to offer mixtures of lipids and emulsifiers as skincare oils, these approaches generally had the disadvantage that, when using oil-in-water emulsifiers, they could not be incorporated into the oil phase in sufficient quantities, and when using water-in-water emulsifiers, the emulsion formation when rubbed onto wet skin left much to be desired. Furthermore, the state-of-the-art systems are usually not particularly skin- and environmentally friendly, as they are not made from natural raw materials.

[0012] On the other hand, it was surprising and unforeseeable for the person skilled in the art that a visible white care emulsion would form when the preparation according to the invention was rubbed onto moist skin.

[0013] According to the invention, "anhydrous" means preparations in which no water is added or contained other than the traces of water usually contained in the raw materials.

[0014] It is therefore preferred according to the invention if the preparation contains less than 1% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0015] It is advantageous for the purposes of the present invention if diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate is used in a concentration of 0.5 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. The concentration range of 2 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, is preferred according to the invention.

[0016] It is also advantageous according to the invention if polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate is used in a concentration of 0.5 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. The concentration range of 2 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, is preferred according to the invention.

[0017] Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are characterized in that the preparation contains one or more fatty alcohols.

[0018] According to the invention, it is preferred to use one or more fatty alcohols selected from the list of the following compounds: Cetearyl Alcohol, Myristyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol. It is advantageous according to the invention if the total amount of fatty alcohols is 1 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0019] Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains cocoa butter. In such a case, it is preferred according to the invention if the cocoa butter is used in an amount of 1 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0020] It is advantageous in the sense of the present invention if one or more compounds selected from the group octyldodecanol, caprylic / capric acid triglyceride (INCI Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride), isopropyl palmitate (INCI: Isopropyl Palmitate), shea butter ethyl ester (INCI: Shea Butter Ethyl Esters), rapeseed oil (INCI: Brassica Campestris Seed Oil) are used as oils with a surface tension of less than 31 mN / m.

[0021] It is preferred according to the invention if the olive oil has been fermented by Pseudozyma sp.SY-16[KCTC 8950P].

[0022] According to the invention, it is particularly preferred if the substance with the INCI Pseudozyme Epicola / Olive Fruit Oil is used as the fermented olive oil. This can be purchased, for example, under the trade name "Fermentoil Olive" from LABIO Co., Ltd.

[0023] The advantageous embodiments according to the invention are characterized in that fermented olive oil is used in a concentration of 0.25 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. The concentration range of 0.5 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, is preferred according to the invention.

[0024] According to the invention, it is advantageous if the total amount of oils with a surface tension of less than 31 mN / m is at least 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. According to the invention, the difference to the final product is preferably compensated by topping up with these oils (to 100% by weight).

[0025] Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are further characterized in that the preparation contains one or more active ingredients selected from the group of compounds alpha-lipoic acid, folic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, flavonoids, creatine, creatinine, taurine, β-alanine, panthenol, magnolol, honokiol, tocopheryl acetate, dihydroxyacetone; thiamidol; 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid, glyceryl glycose, (2-hydroxyethyl)urea, vitamin E or its derivatives, hyaluronic acid and / or its salts, lecithin and / or licochalcone A.

[0026] It is also advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains 2,6-di- tert -butyl- p -cresol (INCI: BHT) or ascorbyl palmitate.

[0027] Last but not least, the advantageous embodiments according to the invention are characterized in that the preparation is free from phenoxyethanol, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)-camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: oxybenzone), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (INCI octylmethoxycinnamate), ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), parabens (in particular methyl-, propyl- and butylparaben), methylisothiazolinone, chloromethylisothiazolinone and DMDM ​​hydantoin, polyethylene glycol ethers or polyethylene glycol esters. Beispiele

[0028] The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, proportions, and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or the total weight of the preparations. Beispielrezeptur 1 Beispielrezeptur 2 Beispielrezeptur 3 Beispielrezeptur 4 INCI m [%] m [%] m [%] m [%] Isopropyl Palmitate 87.00 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 47.00 59.00 Octyldodecanol 29.00 2.00 2.00 Myristyl Alcohol 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate 2.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate 2.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Brassica Campestris Seed Oil 15.00 Octyldodecanol 30.00 Shea Butter Ethyl Esters + Citric Acid 87.00 Pseudozyma Epicola / Olive Fruit Oil Ferment Filtrate 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Summen: 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 Comparison recipes:

[0029] Due to its special composition, Example Formulation 5 creates a white care film when applied to moist skin, which is easy to spread and absorbs well. Example Formulation 6, listed for comparison, performs significantly worse. This preparation, without fermented olive oil and with Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil as its main ingredient (surface tension > 31 mN / m), hardly or not at all turns white when applied to moist skin and exhibits poorer spreadability and absorption. Beispielrezeptur 5 Beispielrezeptur 6 INCI m [%] m [%] Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 34.00 Octyldodecanol 10.00 Myristyl Alcohol 2.00 2.00 Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate 3.00 3.00 Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter 2.00 2.00 Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil 80.00 Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate 3.00 3.00 Octyldodecanol 30.00 Shea Butter Ethyl Esters + Citric Acid 25.00 Pseudozyma Epicola / Olive Fruit Oil Ferment Filtrate 1.00 Summen: 100.00 100.00

Claims

1. Anhydrous cosmetic preparation comprising a) Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate b) Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate c) fermented olive oil d) one or more oils having a surface tension of less than 31 mN / m.

2. Cosmetic preparation according to Claim 1, characterized in that the preparation comprises less than 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, of water.

3. Cosmetic preparation according to either of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation comprises one or more fatty alcohols.

4. Cosmetic preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation comprises cocoa butter.

5. Cosmetic preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that oils having a surface tension of less than 31 mN / m used are one or more compounds selected from the following group: octyldodecanol, caprylic / capric triglyceride (INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride), isopropyl palmitate (INCI: Isopropyl Palmitate), shea butter ethyl esters (INCI: Shea Butter Ethyl Esters), rapeseed oil (INCI: Brassica Campestris Seed Oil).

6. Cosmetic preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the olive oil has been fermented by Pseudozyma sp. SY-16 [KCTC 8950P].

7. Cosmetic preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fermented olive oil used is the substance having the INCI name Pseudozyma Epicola / Olive Fruit Oil.

8. Cosmetic preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate is used in a concentration of 2% to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

9. Cosmetic preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate is used in a concentration of 2% to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

10. Cosmetic preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that fermented olive oil is used in a concentration of 0.5% to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

11. Cosmetic preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total amount of oils having a surface tension of less than 31 mN / m is at least 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

12. Cosmetic preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total amount of fatty alcohols is 2% to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

13. Cosmetic preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that cocoa butter is used in an amount of 2% to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

14. Cosmetic preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation comprises one or more active ingredients selected from the following group of compounds: alpha-lipoic acid, folic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, flavonoids, creatine, creatinine, taurine, β-alanine, panthenol, magnolol, honokiol, tocopheryl acetate, dihydroxyacetone; thiamidol; 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid, glycerylglucose, (2-hydroxyethyl)urea, vitamin E or derivatives thereof, hyaluronic acid and / or salts thereof, and / or licochalcone A.

15. Cosmetic preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation comprises 2,6-di-tert-butyl-p-cresol (INCI: BHT).

16. Cosmetic preparation according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation is free of 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: Oxybenzone), 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate (INCI: Octyl Methoxycinnamate), ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: Octocrylene), parabens (particularly methyl, propyl and butyl paraben), methylisothiazolinone, chloromethylisothiazolinone and DMDM hydantoin, polyethylene glycol ethers or polyethylene glycol esters.