METHOD FOR WEAVING TEXTILE ARTICLES AND DEVICE FOR CARRYING OUT THE METHOD

Description

[0001] The invention relates generally to the field of weaving. More particularly, the present invention relates to a device for manufacturing a textile article from a continuous thread element, a method for manufacturing said textile article and a textile article obtained by said method.

[0002] The conventional textile industry is based on the mass production of articles that are woven, cut and then assembled according to known methods.

[0003] In this manufacturing process, textile design generally does not take into account the (three-dimensional) silhouette of the garment or the intention of the garment or customer expectations.

[0004] As such, textile design and fashion design are currently separate from each other.

[0005] Of course, the craft of tailoring still exists. The traditional steps in making a tailor-made garment are: pattern making, which consists of creating the designs for a garment; fabric cutting, which consists of cutting out all the pieces of the pattern; and assembly, which consists of assembling the different pieces of fabric and sewing them together.

[0006] However, the production of a custom-made garment is generally associated with expensive raw materials and a high production cost due to the time spent on making and also the numerous fabric scraps. DE 30 03 666 A1 and DE 20 2017 103295 U1 disclose methods and devices for manufacturing textile article panels from a continuous wire element as well as such textile article panels.

[0007] The present invention aims to overcome the disadvantages of traditional methods and devices for making a custom-made garment by proposing a new semi-automatic or automatic method for making a custom-made garment without fabric waste.

[0008] The present invention aims in particular to simplify the manufacture of a custom-made garment and thus reduce its cost by proposing a mechatronic manufacturing process for a textile or fabric with an openwork structure from a continuous thread. Said manufacturing process is implemented using a new weaving device.

[0009] For the purposes of the present invention, the weaving method corresponds to a technique using the interweaving of a continuous thread.

[0010] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "threaded element" means a thread chosen from the group consisting of a polyester, wool, cotton, pearl cotton, embroidery cotton, Scottish cotton, nylon, natural or synthetic raffia, string, more generally any thread of any kind which accepts tensioning, for example any thread used in textile knitting and weaving, including technical threads used in high mechanical performance components, including geotextiles.

[0011] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wire element segment" means the part of the wire element between two winding segments.

[0012] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "winding segment" means any means positioned vertically on a support allowing the winding of a wire element. The winding segments are chosen from the group consisting of pins, pegs, solid or hollow rods.

[0013] The present invention therefore has as its first object a weaving device for the manufacture of a panel of a textile article from a continuous wire element according to claim 1.

[0014] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the means capable of positioning or removing winding segments on the support is a removable or retractable winding segment planting / gripping head (3) provided with a clamp for planting / gripping the winding segments. The means (3) also comprises a linear actuator provided with a mechanism with 3 degrees of freedom for moving the planting / gripping head in three dimensions along the “X”, “Y” and “Z” axes in a rectangular coordinate system and also along 2 angular axes alpha and beta for orienting and positioning the winding segments.

[0015] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the means (4) capable of delivering and winding the wire element around the winding segments is a removable or retractable distribution head (4) adjustable in height provided with an outlet for the wire element.

[0016] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the output of the wire element is in the form of a tube.

[0017] The device according to the present invention further comprises voltage regulating means (8) of the wire element (9),

[0018] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the wire element is blocked on a first winding segment then the tension of the wire element is ensured by a tension block upstream of the distribution head (4) of the wire element.

[0019] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the tension of the wire element is maintained by means of the tension system during the movement of the distribution head (4) of the wire element. The tension of the wire element is constant between the last passage point and the tension block.

[0020] The device for varying the length and / or tension of the wire element of the present invention comprises a sensor for measuring tension, a control unit and a length and / or tension variation unit for unwinding the wire element under tension. The tension sensor is placed between the tension unit and the end piece located at the end of the tube of the wire element of the distribution head of the wire element to measure and / or adjust, using the control unit, the tension of the wire element according to the area to be woven as defined by a person skilled in the art.

[0021] The device according to the present invention comprises a support capable of receiving the winding segments.

[0022] Generally, the support is in the form of a frame (13) whose orientation is adjustable through 90° to provide a working surface vertically or horizontally or inclined relative to the ground.

[0023] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the support is in the form of a frame with a length of 200 to 100 cm and a width of 150 to 80 cm, preferably a frame of 120 x 90 cm, 150 x 90 cm or 180 x 90 cm.

[0024] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the support is in the form of a table whose horizontal support is at a height from the ground of 75 to 95 cm, or whose vertical support has a base at a height from the ground of 60 to 80 cm.

[0025] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the support comprises or consists of one or more layers, of one or more materials. More particularly, the support comprises or consists of a part made of cork or shape memory or foam.

[0026] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the support further comprises a grid or a grid provided with markers or holes useful for locating and positioning the winding segments on said support.

[0027] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the support optionally comprises openings / orifices placed in the upper part of said support to allow the passage or placement of the winding segments.

[0028] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the support comprises or consists of a flat surface or comprises convex surfaces produced by series of intersecting profiles. These profiles have cutouts. By varying the orientation and distance of the profiles, it is thus possible to reproduce a large number of surfaces which are always convex, satisfying the objective of tensioning and shaping the wire, other than during a path of the wire on the flat surface of the initial support. The convex surface is obtained by this network of intersecting profiles, preferably at 90°, which are fixed at their bases on the flat surface of the initial support.

[0029] The term "profile" can refer to the vocabulary of an aerodynamic element, comprising a rounded leading edge, a maximum thickness placed towards the front third, and a thin trailing edge on the rear. The distance from the leading edge to the trailing edge is called the chord. A profile according to the invention refers for example to the following shapes: an airplane wing, a ship's sail, a boomerang blade, a rudder, a keel, a sailboat rudder, an airplane propeller, a helicopter rotor.

[0030] Each profile can vary in cut. It meets another profile perpendicularly every 5 to 10 cm. The height can vary throughout the profile but remains similar at the intersection between two profiles. It is therefore advantageous to have a set of profiles allowing the construction of a wide variety of totally or partially convex surface shapes.

[0031] For example, a repetition of intersections of symmetrical profiles can constitute a wing as shown in figure 5 . Profiles can also be flat, hollow, multi-curved and asymmetrical.

[0032] At the top of the convex surface made up of the network of profiles, preferably meshed, we will speak of a rounding as a smooth transition, replacing a simple edge between two surfaces (two planes) and having a section in the shape of an arc or substantially in the shape of an arc. At the base of the wholly or partly convex shape, we will favor a concave section for the fillet, to prevent any shock and contact with the coil of the wire element.

[0033] The term "fillet" refers to the pattern marking the end of an arcuate molding outline used to soften the contours of a piece of cabinetwork. According to the present invention the term "fillet" is used to characterize the shape of a base of a profile.

[0034] According to the present invention, the person skilled in the art can also use the term "chamfer", which is a particular fillet, constituting a small oblique, flat and regular surface, which is obtained by cutting down a sharp edge. Its value can be quantified by giving its inclination and its width: for example, we say "cut down the edges with a 3 mm chamfer at 45°.

[0035] According to the invention, the support comprises or consists of at least one three-dimensional zone, preferably a convex zone. Those skilled in the art understand that the support of the device of the invention is adaptable and is flat and comprises one or more non-flat, preferably convex, areas or is made up of one or more non-flat, preferably convex, areas to enable the production of one or more panels of textile article forming a three-dimensional article.

[0036] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the support comprises a frame (13) resting on the support. The frame is preferably made up of linear slides which may include linear guide units composed of a rail-carriage system, a shaft-ball bushing system, or a rail-rail system with intermediate linear roller or ball cages. The linear guide units with drive are complete systems with one or more axes with a mechanical guide system, an electric motor and with a control adapted to the system.

[0037] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the guide units are chosen from the group consisting of ball guides, on profiled rails, by rollers, with recirculating ball runners, and precision guide rails.

[0038] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the guide units make it possible to combine a linear movement and a rotary movement.

[0039] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the support comprises a vibrating bowl (14) allowing the storage, distribution, and orientation of the winding segments, in particular the pins.

[0040] More particularly, the vibrating bowl according to the invention makes it possible to feed the device with pins automatically. This distribution system brings and directs the pins, stored in bulk in a tank, towards a motorized rotating plate provided with vertical storage locations for the pins, preferably from 5 to 30 vertical storage locations for the winding segments, for example pins which are picked up by a planting / gripping gripper. The vibrating bowl is provided with a chute or any other means, for example a pipe, which channels the fall of the pins at the point of arrival of the rotating plate, towards the vertical storage locations. When the rotating plate is full, the vibrating bowl stops; the plate is emptied by means of the gripping gripper. A pin arrival detector makes it possible to trigger the rotation of the rotating plate.

[0041] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the winding segments (2) consist of or comprise elongated elements capable of holding the textile article being manufactured in a fixed position on the support. The winding segments consist of or comprise a metal, an alloy, wood, plastic, or a ceramic.

[0042] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the winding segments are chosen from the group consisting of pins, pins, solid or hollow rods. In the latter case, glue can be applied to the internal windings of wire in contact with the body of the winding segment.

[0043] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the winding segments are smooth or are provided with roughness. The winding segments are provided with or without a head.

[0044] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the winding segments are covered with a sleeve made of rubber or another rough material and / or deformable under pressure to prevent the wire element from slipping out of the winding segment.

[0045] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the winding segments are arranged at an angle of 90 to 120° relative to the surface of the support.

[0046] It is advantageous to favor an angle of 100° to 125°, preferably 110° to 120°, even more preferably 115° for each winding segment, in order to help trap the wire and its sliding at the base of the winding segment. The wound wire is thus, by being tensioned around the winding segment, pressed and brought into contact with the flat surface of the support or the convex surface obtained by the network of profiles.

[0047] The height of the winding segments is dictated by the size and complexity of the textile article to be produced. The height of the winding segments will be greater the greater the number of passes (winds) on each winding segment. Generally, the height of a winding segment, for example a pin, is between 0.5 cm and 5 cm. The diameter of a winding segment is generally between 1 and 5 mm, preferably 2, 3, or 4 mm.

[0048] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the distance between two contiguous winding segments, implanted on the support, is between 2 mm and 1 cm, preferably this distance is 5 mm.

[0049] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the winding segments are arranged on a part of the support equipped with a jack or any other lifting system or disengaging mechanism.

[0050] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the winding segments are arranged manually on the support.

[0051] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the winding segments are placed on the support using a means (3) provided with a clamp (11) making it possible to position or remove winding segments on the support according to the contour of a shape to be manufactured corresponding to the pattern of a textile article. Said means (3), in particular a head for planting / gripping the winding segments, is optionally fixed to an articulated arm controlled by a computer system.

[0052] Mecha-electronic means (5), for example stepper motors are used to move the planting / gripping head in three dimensions along the "X", "Y" and "Z" axes in a rectangular coordinate system as well as a system of 2 angular axes alpha and beta according to a predetermined sequence and pattern.

[0053] The device according to the present invention comprises independent parts which are easily replaceable, particularly in the event of wear.

[0054] In a first configuration of use, the device of the present invention comprises a planting / gripping head (3) for arranging the winding segments on the support.

[0055] The means (3), in particular the planting / gripping head, is movable in a plane which generally corresponds to an orthogonal XY plane. The device of the present invention further comprises a control unit configured to continuously coordinate the movements of the planting / gripping head (3) in the XY plane relative to the support. In the present invention, the term "control unit" means the software integrated or connected to the weaving device. The control unit is also configured to control the movement of the planting / gripping head (3) in the Z direction and on the alpha and beta rotations. The control unit comprises a digital input for loading an image (the pattern) of the textile article to be manufactured.

[0056] The image (pattern) of the textile item to be manufactured can be scanned with a LECTRA type scanner or directly with a camera incorporated in the machine. The image processing can then be carried out using commercial software such as MATLAB ®< ( «matrix laboratory ") developed by The MathWorks. MATLAB ®< allows you to manipulate matrices, display curves and data, implement algorithms, and create user interfaces. The computerized control system also includes input acquisition and power output control interfaces, for example an Arduino ®< (Mega) board, associated with power stages, a Twincat ®< (Beckhoff) or Arduino ®< (Mega) electronic board to control the weaving device according to the invention.

[0057] The planting / gripping head (3) of the device of the present invention further comprises an optical camera connected to the control unit for scanning a pattern via the control unit. The camera also makes it possible to monitor the quality and manufacturing defects in real time and to record the directions of the wire element segments during the manufacture of a textile panel according to the invention.

[0058] The device of the present invention also comprises a wire element dispensing head (4) provided with a wire element outlet. The device of the present invention is designed so as to be able to substitute said dispensing head (4) for said planting / gripping head (3).

[0059] In a second configuration of use, the device of the present invention comprises said dispensing head (4) for winding the wire element around the winding segments arranged on the support.

[0060] In particular, the dispensing head (4) is movable in a plane that generally corresponds to an orthogonal XY plane. The device of the present invention further comprises a control unit configured to continuously coordinate the movements of the dispensing head (4) in the XY plane relative to the support. In the present invention, the term "control unit" means the software integrated or connected to the weaving device. The control unit is also configured to control the movement of the dispensing head (4) in the Z direction and may optionally control the rotation of the dispensing head (4) about the Z axis. The control unit comprises a digital input for loading an image (the pattern) of the textile article to be manufactured.

[0061] The dispensing head is controllably raised along a "Z" axis in order to arrange the winding segments, for example on a three-dimensional support and optionally in order to sequentially form stretches and windings of the yarn around the winding segments arranged on the support.

[0062] In order to mechanically or semi-automatically (with manual assistance for winding the wire) form each winding direction around the winding segments arranged on the support, drive motors are provided for selectively moving the dispensing head (4) in a predetermined pattern along the "X" and "Y" axes during the dispensing of the wire element. A relative vertical movement along a "Z" axis may also be performed during the formation of each winding, to enable the winding and tensioning of the wire element segments around the winding segments.

[0063] In particular, the number of windings around the winding segments and interweavings of the wire segments, and especially their directions, can be programmed. These mechanical movements are preferably carried out by means of control signals input to the control motors and the dispensing head from a CAD / CAM system. In such a system, the design of a textile article to be manufactured is initially created from computer-aided design (CAD) software known to those skilled in the art; this software being used to convert the shape of the pattern into computer data that can be rendered in the form of wire element segments and needle placement as control signals via a computer-aided machine to the aforementioned drive motors.

[0064] The operator may disengage the automatic system of the device of the present invention in order to correct or redirect the manufacture of a textile article to create, for example, areas with complex openwork structures by modifying the number of windings around certain winding segments and interweaving of the wire segments, as programmed.

[0065] The wire element at the base of the textile article to be manufactured is preferably supplied to the dispensing head (4) by a power source, such as a reel of wire element.

[0066] A separate mechanical drive means is provided for the vertical up and down movement of the dispensing head (4). A drive motor provides rotary drive power to a drive screw. Selected actuation of the motor rotates the screw to provide vertical up and down movement of the dispensing head (4) on the plain bearing. For this purpose, the motor is preferably a stepper motor, optionally with high resolution. It should be noted, however, that different types of motors could be used for the drive motors, including stepper motors, linear motors, servo motors, synchronous motors, DC motors and fluid motors.

[0067] Referring to the Figure 1 , we can observe the different motors (5a, 5b, 5c) used to move the means (3-4), in particular the head for planting / gripping the winding segments (3) and the distribution head (4).

[0068] In particular, the motor (5a) allows the movement of at least one means (3) and / or (4) along the “X” axis, the motor (5b) allows the movement of at least one means (3) and / or (4) along the “Y” axis, the motor (5c) allows the movement of at least one means (3) and / or (4) along the “Y” axis.

[0069] The manufacture of a textile article is carried out by the successive formation of segments of wire element around the winding segments forming the pattern of the textile article to be produced.

[0070] The wire element feed is controlled in relation to the "X", "Y" and "Z" movement of the distribution head so that the wire tension is controlled

[0071] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the coil of the wire element and its base are arranged in connection with the dispensing head. According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the coil of the wire element rests on a base which is not integral with the device. The coil of the wire element can also rest on the ground.

[0072] It is understood that the weaving device according to the invention can be used in an automatic or semi-automatic mode.

[0073] Another subject of the present invention is a method of manufacturing a section of a textile article from a continuous wire element according to claim 7.

[0074] Each segment of wire element is by nature reversible so as to make it possible to modify the design formed by the tracing of the paths of the wire element. Once this shape is validated, the winding of the wire element between two winding segments is made irreversible either by fixing (blocking) or by a closed loop (half key).

[0075] According to the present invention, the type of winding is chosen from the group consisting of partial winding, total winding of the open loop type (reversible), total winding of the open loop type (made irreversible by fixing (blocking) a glue segment), complete winding of the blocked closed loop type (half key). For example, we can cite sewing segments of the buttonhole segment type, slipper segment, saddle segment (with both ends of a thread, or two threads).

[0076] According to the present invention, each segment of wire element, positioned between two winding segments, is irreversibly fixed after validation of the path of the wire element on each of the winding segments, and so that the breakage of a segment of wire element has no impact on the other segments of wire element.

[0077] In one embodiment of the present invention said method further comprises positioning winding segments forming an outline, within the shape of the panel of a textile article to be manufactured within the shape to be manufactured.

[0078] In another embodiment of the present invention, the step of stretching the wire element causes tension on the winding segment which may change the angle of the winding segment with the support.

[0079] In another embodiment of the present invention, in step a) of the method, the positioning of the winding segments is carried out by any electromagnetic or mechatronic means such as a robotic arm controlled from an automatic or semi-automatic system.

[0080] In another embodiment of the present invention, in step a) of the method the positioning of the winding segments is defined by coordinates in an orthonormal reference frame. The winding segments can be implanted on a plane, or be contained and in reserve in this plane, protruding from the support only on demand (manually, semi or completely automatically) or moving laterally on a rail-type segment comprising the winding segments which can be moved in translation.

[0081] In another embodiment of the present invention, said method comprises a step of locking each loop formed on each winding segment after the winding step.

[0082] In another embodiment of the present invention, said method further comprises a step of locking each wire segment performed after the step of winding the wire element around a winding segment. The winding step comprises forming at least a partial winding of the wire element around a winding segment.

[0083] In another embodiment of the present invention, said blocking of at least one loop is formed on each winding segment after the winding step.

[0084] In another embodiment of the present invention, said blocking is formed on all the loops of the panel of a textile article to be manufactured.

[0085] In another embodiment of the present invention, said blocking of at least one loop on a winding segment is carried out by mechanical, chemical or thermal means, for example the blocking is carried out by means of a knot, a sewing or weaving segment, a staple, thread, glue, resin, welding, by folding a metal wire into a jumper once each of the two legs thereof has passed through each of the two partial or total windings of the wire element.

[0086] The blocking can be done by trapping a thread other than the single continuous thread element used for the manufacture of a piece of textile according to the method of the present invention, by forming a so-called "buttonhole" segment.

[0087] In another embodiment of the present invention, said blocking is formed on all the loops of the panel of a textile article to be manufactured using one or more mechanical, chemical or thermal means. For example, it is obvious that the welding can only be suitable for thermoplastic yarn types. The welding can be done with or without the addition of material. It consists of punctually heating the parts to be "bonded" together by changing their state from solid to viscous, by heat, then pressing mechanically and waiting for the return to the solid state by lowering the temperature.

[0088] In another embodiment of the present invention, said method comprises a step of winding the yarn onto two neighboring blocking points. This winding of the yarn onto two neighboring blocking points preferably comprises a blocking step by loop formed on one or both of the winding points, after the winding step.

[0089] According to the present invention, the direction of the wire element to form a wire element segment, positioned between two winding segments, is chosen randomly or planned (designed and shown in drawing), semi-automatically or programmed, in this case by means of software), said direction involving

[0090] either a round trip path of the wire element between two winding segments so as to obtain a superposition of two segments between two of the above-mentioned winding segments, or a path of the wire element towards another winding segment than that coming from the last path of the wire element so as to obtain a partial or loop winding between the new wire element segment with one or more existing segment(s).

[0091] In another embodiment of the present invention, the control unit comprises a digital input for loading an image (the pattern) of the textile article to be manufactured, said digitized image comprising information on color, shape, size and covering density of the wire element segments.

[0092] In another embodiment of the present invention, the loading of the scanned image into the control unit is performed by means of a scanning tool such as a scanner. In another embodiment of the present invention, the scanned image is represented in the form of a network representing the segments of the wireframe element.

[0093] It is therefore understood that to manufacture a panel of a textile article according to the method of the present invention, the weaving device comprises a computer on which is installed software known in the state of the art to control said device, in particular the different motors actuating the means (3-4) of the device. Furthermore, the computer may comprise a processing and control module connected to the weaving device. The device may also comprise a set of input peripherals connected (wired or wireless) to the computer, manipulable by an operator in order to produce the panel of textile by interacting with the software.

[0094] It is understood that the computer, the known software and the input peripherals constitute the means for creating the textile panel, and that the processing and control unit of the computer and the device of the present invention constitute the weaving means.

[0095] The wire element can be positioned manually or automatically, around each winding segment, like a simple weave. The wire element makes back and forth paths between the winding segments of the panel of a textile article to be manufactured; each winding segment accepts up to 50 passes of the wire element, preferably more than 20 passes or 20 to 30 passes.

[0096] The wire element required for weaving can vary in quality and thickness.

[0097] In another embodiment of the present invention, the wire element is tensioned before being wound around a winding segment. The tension of the wire element is controlled by unwinding at least one spool associated with a motor for driving (in rotation) said spool, which motor is associated with a brake mechanism.

[0098] In another embodiment of the present invention, the control unit contains all the characteristics of the panel of the textile to be manufactured; said characteristics correspond the number of passes of the wire element over each winding segment, the total number of wire element segments of the textile panel to be manufactured, the directions of the wire element segments on an orthonormal axis for example, the number of superpositions or crossings of wire element segments.

[0099] In another embodiment of the present invention, the number of overlaps of yarn element segments within the textile article being manufactured is tracked by an optical capture system, for example a camera.

[0100] In another embodiment of the present invention, the method makes it possible to obtain a panel of textile article whose areas not covered by a segment of wire element have an average surface area of ​​from 0.01 to 1 cm 2.

[0101] When the piece produced by the method of the present application is a garment, the artistic approach is a major component of said production. The operator can then use the device according to the invention in a semi-automatic mode to carry out according to his choices the number of passages of the wire element on each winding segment, the directions of the wire element segments on an orthonormal axis for example, the number of superpositions or crossings of wire element segments.

[0102] In another embodiment of the present invention, the textile article panel obtainable by said method comprises or is made of a single piece having a complex shape whose perimeter comprises both at least one curve and one straight line.

[0103] In another embodiment of the present invention, the textile article panel obtainable by said method comprises or is made of a single piece having a complex shape whose perimeter comprises both at least one curve and one straight line.

[0104] In another embodiment of the present invention, the textile article panel obtainable by said method comprises or consists of a single piece of rounded or convex shape, forming a three-dimensional article.

[0105] In another embodiment of the present invention, the textile article panel obtainable by said method comprises or consists of at least one thickness, i.e. a single superposition of wire element.

[0106] According to the present invention, the loops forming the perimeter of each panel of textile article obtainable by said method are linked together by buttonhole stitches.

[0107] In another embodiment of the present invention, the piece of textile article obtainable by said method is assembled into a garment, a covering or covering fabric for an object, industrial furniture such as a car seat, a locker room accessory, a shoe, a component of technical equipment such as an explosion-proof tank, a propeller blade of a wind turbine for example.

[0108] In another embodiment of the present invention, several panels of textile article obtainable by a method according to the invention are assembled into a garment, a covering or covering fabric for an object, industrial furniture, a locker room accessory, a shoe, or a component of technical equipment. Said assembly of several panels of textile article can be carried out by means of one or more buttonhole stitches assembling the panels of textile article edge to edge without overlapping.

[0109] The present invention also relates to an assembly of several panels of textile article which can be obtained by a method according to the invention, characterized in that said assembly is carried out by means of one or more buttonhole stitches assembling the panels of textile article edge to edge without overlapping, as shown in the figure 7 .

[0110] The present invention also relates to a tailor-made garment comprising several panels of textile article which can be obtained by a method according to the invention, characterized in that said panels of textile article are assembled by means of one or more buttonhole stitches assembling the panels of textile article edge to edge without overlapping.

[0111] A custom-made garment corresponds to a garment whose body measurements have been previously digitized in order to be processed by computer-aided design (CAD) software known to those skilled in the art.

[0112] Examples of embodiments of the invention are described in the following, without limitation, in relation to the attached figures which aim above all to illustrate the principles of the invention.

[0113] There figure 1 is a perspective view showing the device for placing the winding segments on the support.

[0114] There figure 2 is a general view of the planting / gripping head (3) of the winding segments.

[0115] There figure 3 is a general view of the distribution head (4).

[0116] There figure 4 is a diagram showing the arrangement of winding segments and multiple wire segments wound x times (18 times on the figure 4a ) on the same winding segment; the figure 4b shows the textile being manufactured. The figure 4c represents a section of textile article obtained or in the process of being obtained by the process.

[0117] There figure 5 represents a planar profile (in section) (5a), a 3D shape made from a profile (5b) and a repetition of profiles forming a wing (5c).

[0118] There figure 6A represents a photograph of a vibrating bowl; the figure 6B represents a diagram of the operating principle of the downgrading of the winding segments (pins); step 1 represents the exit point one by one of the pins, oriented head upwards; step 2 represents the descent of the pins by gravity; step 3 represents the detection of the arrival of the pins; step 4 represents the rotation or stopping of the rotating plate depending on its state of loading with pins; step 5 represents the unloading of the plate by the gripping clamp of the device of the invention.

[0119] In reference to the figure 4c , the manufacture of a section of textile article according to the method of the present invention is shown schematically.

[0120] There figure 7 A shows the finishing of two pieces of textile obtained according to the invention using a buttonhole stitch. The figure 7B represents the assembly of two pieces of textile obtained according to the invention. The assembly shows 3 buttonhole stitches side by side.

[0121] There figure 7C represents a close-up photograph of the finishing of a section of textile article according to the invention.

[0122] Said textile article panel is formed by intersecting a continuous wire element, said continuous wire element forming wire element segments around winding segments arranged on a support. The winding segments are arranged on the support so as to form the outline of the form to be woven. The shading of the crossing of the wire element segments is defined either by the operator or by a computer program. The weaving pattern is produced by defining relative weaving characteristics the number of passes of the wire element over each winding segment, the total number of wire element segments of the textile panel to be manufactured, the directions of the wire element segments on an orthonormal axis for example, the number of superpositions or crossings of wire element segments.

[0123] Preferably, the weaving directions, i.e. the orientations of the wire element segments around the winding segments, can be predefined in a generated image of the textile panel to be woven using a specific application of known software such as MATLAB ®.

[0124] In other examples, the positions of the wire element segments are recorded by the control system via a camera of type (5MP OmniVision ®< OV5640 without distortion). This operating mode is particularly advantageous when the operator wishes to create several identical or substantially identical textile pieces, i.e. comprising the same weaving directions.

[0125] The previously defined weaving characteristics can be converted into computer data. Modifications can be provided to define variations in the orientation of the wire element segments in order to obtain a textile panel having the same or substantially identical shape but whose aesthetic appearance and / or weaving characteristics are different.

[0126] In the example of realization of the figure 4 , the principle of forming the wire element segments which is used in the weaving method of the present invention has been illustrated.

[0127] A surface of the support has been represented on the figure 4 ; said surface has 7 winding segments on a first vertical left axis, 7 other winding segments on a second vertical right axis and 10 winding segments on a “lower” horizontal axis. The figure 4 does not represent winding segments on a "top" horizontal axis.

[0128] In the present application, the expressions "lower", "upper", will be understood as referring to a movement along the "X" axis. Similarly, the terms "left" and "right" will be understood as referring to a movement along the "Y" axis.

[0129] Referring to the figure 4 , it is understood that a succession of steps of winding the wire element is carried out around a first winding segment, on the original position at the intersection of the vertical left axis and the "lower" horizontal axis. This figure represents the formation of 18 wire element segments (12a-12r), all wound on a single winding segment. These 18 wire element segments are formed following a return path towards the first winding segment. The figure 4b represents a weaving step in which a repetition of the steps of stretching and winding the wire element are carried out around all the winding segments of the form to be manufactured so as to form intersecting wire element segments. The thickness of the piece of textile to be manufactured is a function of the number of passes made over each winding segment and the thickness of the wire element.

[0130] There figure 4crepresents a section of textile article during manufacture. The loops are always fixed on the winding segments of the weaving device according to the invention.

Claims

1. A weaving device for the manufacture of a piece of a textile article from a continuous thread-type element, said device comprising: - a support (1), which is flat, or is flat and comprises one or more non-flat zone(s), preferably convex, or consists of one or more non-flat zone(s), preferably convex - winding segments (2), - a means (3) suitable for positioning or removing winding segments on the support according to the outline of a shape to be manufactured corresponding to the pattern of the textile article, - a means (4) suitable for delivering and winding the thread-type element around the winding segments, - a supply of thread-type element, - optionally a base for one or more coil (s) of a thread-type element (9, said device is characterized in that - mechanical electronic means (5) for moving the means (3) suitable for positioning or removing winding segments on the support and (4) suitable for delivering and winding the thread-type element around the winding segments in three dimensions along the axes "X", "Y" and "Z" in a system of rectangular coordinates as well as on 2 axes of alpha and beta rotations in an angular system according to a predetermined sequence and pattern, and - a control system comprising a software controlling the movement of the means (3) suitable for positioning or removing winding segments on the support and (4) suitable for delivering and winding the thread-type element around the winding segments allowing the winding segments to be placed on the support, and to carry out the winding of the thread-type element around of said winding segments.

2. The device for the manufacture of a piece of a textile article according to claim 1, characterized in that the means (3) suitable for positioning or removing winding segments (2) on the support (1) is a removable or retractable winding segment planting / gripping head provided with a planting clamp / gripper of the winding segments (2), and the means (4) suitable for delivering and winding the thread-type element around the winding segments (2) is a removable or retractable distribution head (4) adjustable in height provided with an outlet of the thread-type element.

3. The device for the manufacture of a piece of a textile article according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the device further comprises - tension regulation means (8) of the thread-type element.

4. The device for the manufacture of a piece of a textile article according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the support (1) is suitable for receiving the winding segments (2).

5. The device for the manufacture of a piece of a textile article according to claim 4, characterized in that the winding segments (2) are chosen from the group consisting of pins, pawns, solid or hollow rods.

6. The device for the manufacture of a piece of a textile article according to claim 5, characterized in that the winding segments (2) are smooth or provided with roughness and are optionally covered with a sleeve of rubber or other rough material or / and deformable under pressure to prevent the thread-type element from sliding out of the winding segment (2).

7. A method of manufacturing a piece of a textile article from a continuous thread-type element (9) comprising: a) a step of positioning the winding segments in an initial position on a support (1) in order to define the outline of a shape to be manufactured corresponding to the pattern of said piece of a textile article, b) a step of winding the thread-type element (9) around a first winding segment (2), c) a step of stretching the thread-type element (9) so as to position the thread-type element (9) around a second winding segment (2), and thus form a first segment of the thread-type element (9), d) a step of stretching the thread-type element (9) positioned around the second winding segment (2) following either a return path to the first winding segment (2) or a path to another winding segment (2) and forming a second thread-type element segment (9), e) repeating the steps of stretching and winding the thread-type element (9) around all the winding segments (2) of the outline of the shape to be manufactured so as to form a third, a fourth, up to the nth segment of the thread-type element so as to obtain said piece of textile article, f) a step of removing said piece of a textile article manufactured from said support (1) by moving the winding segments (2) from their initial position, by any means of vertical translation, downward or upward, said method is characterized in that g) step a) of the method is carried out by any electromagnetic or mechatronic means, and said method being implemented using the weaving device according to one of claims 1 to 6.

8. The method of manufacturing a piece of a textile article according to claim 7, characterized in that the winding of the thread-type element (9) around all the winding segments (2) is chosen from the group consisting of a partial winding, a total winding of the reversible or irreversible open loop type, and a complete winding of the blocked closed loop type.

9. The method of manufacturing a piece of a textile article according to claim 8, further comprising a step of blocking each loop formed on each winding segment (2) after the winding step.

10. The method of manufacturing a piece of a textile article according to claim 9, characterized in that each segment of the thread-type element (9), positioned between two winding segments (2), is fixed irreversibly after validation of the course of the paths of the thread-type element (9)on each of the winding segments (2).

11. The method of manufacturing a piece of a textile article according to claim 9, characterized in that the blocking of each loop on a winding segment (2) is carried out by mechanical, chemical or thermal means.

12. The method of manufacturing a piece of a textile article according to claim 7, characterized in that a direction of the thread-type element (9) to form a thread-type element segment (9), positioned between two winding segments (2), is chosen randomly or planned, manual, semi-automatic or programmed, said direction involving either a return path of the thread-type element (9) between two winding segments (2) so as to obtain a superposition of two segments between two aforesaid winding segments (2), or a path of the thread-type element (9) to another winding segment (2) than that coming from the last path of the thread-type element (9) so as to obtain a partial or loop winding between the new segment of the thread-type element (9) with one or more existing segment(s).

13. Assembly of several pieces of textile article obtained by a method according to any one of claims 7 to 12, characterized in that said assembly comprises one or more buttonhole stitches assembling the pieces of textile article edge to edge without overlapping, said assembly is in particular a garment, a fabric for coating or covering an object, industrial furniture, a cloakroom accessory, or a component of technical equipment.

14. A made-to-measure garment comprising an assembly of several pieces of textile article according to claim 13.