Water-free cosmetic composition containing plant oils
Patent Information
- Application Number
- DE602019066487
- Authority / Receiving Office
- DE · DE
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2018-08-06
- Filing Date
- 2019-07-09
- Publication Date
- 2025-02-26
- Estimated Expiration
- 2039-07-09
Description
TECHNICAL FIELD
[0001] The present invention relates to the field of compositions for the care of keratin materials comprising vegetable oils. CONTEXT
[0002] In recent years, cosmetic manufacturers have faced growing consumer demand for more natural and skin-friendly cosmetic products. A multitude of cosmetic compositions based on vegetable oils have been launched to meet this demand. Vegetable oils are renowned for their nourishing properties and are particularly appreciated by consumers due to their naturalness and multifunctionality. Indeed, these oils can be used on the face, body, and hair. There are many varieties of vegetable oils, each with different properties. However, a major drawback to using these oils is that they can sometimes feel too greasy and absorb too slowly when applied to the skin.Likewise, some of these oils may have too strong an odor for some users.
[0003] In order to overcome these various problems, the applicant tried to add alcohol to the vegetable oils in order to obtain a more fluid and lighter oily composition, with a dry feel, i.e. capable of penetrating quickly into the skin without leaving a greasy film, and having a limited olfactory impact. However, the oily compositions obtained after adding alcohol may be cloudy due to the immiscibility of the vegetable oils and the alcohol, which, in addition to being visually unattractive, may result in the oil not being distributed evenly on the skin or hair when applied.
[0004] Therefore, there is still a need for clear, fluid, light and dry-touch oil compositions.
[0005] Furthermore, there is a need for simple oily compositions with a limited number of ingredients, limited olfactory impact and respect for the environment. FR 1 271 011 discloses methods for solubilizing oils in low molecular weight alcohols and the use of these compositions in the field of cosmetics.
[0006] The applicant has unexpectedly and surprisingly discovered that all of these problems can be solved by the composition according to the present invention. SUMMARY
[0007] According to one aspect, the present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one vegetable oil in a total content by weight x between 10% and 40% relative to the total weight of the composition; and b) at least one C2-C4 monoalcohol, in a total content by weight ybetween 5% and 21% relative to the total weight of the composition; and c) at least one compound C different from the compounds constituting the vegetable oil, in a total content by weight z relative to the total weight of the composition, compound C having a calculated logP value less than or equal to 8.6, wherein: compound C is selected from the group consisting of liquid fatty acid esters, liquid fatty alcohol esters, liquid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof; and the composition does not include fillers; and 90 % ≤ x + y + z ≤ 100 % ; And z ≥ 0,21 y − 0,56 x .
[0008] According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined above. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF SOME PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0009] By "anhydrous cosmetic composition" is meant a cosmetic composition comprising a total water content by weight of less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.3%, more preferably less than 0.1% relative to the total weight of the composition, most preferably a water-free cosmetic composition.
[0010] By "vegetable oil" is meant a fatty substance extracted from an oleaginous plant which is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013. 10 5< Pa) and which comprises from 95% to 99% by weight of triglycerides, relative to the total weight of the fatty substance.
[0011] By "C2-C4 monoalcohol" we mean an alcohol comprising a single hydroxyl group and a linear or branched carbon chain comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms.
[0012] "Ester" means a monoester, diester or triester resulting from the reaction of monoacids or diacids or tricarboxylic acids, linear or branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated with monoalcohols or polyols, linear or branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated.
[0013] By "fatty acid" we mean a carboxylic acid containing from 4 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0014] "Liquid fatty acid ester" means a fatty acid ester that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013.10 5< Pa).
[0015] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched or cyclic alcohol containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 25 carbon atoms.
[0016] By "oxyalkylenated" is meant a divalent radical -RO- in which R represents a linear C1-C4 or branched C3-C4 alkylene radical.
[0017] By "liquid fatty alcohol" we mean a fatty alcohol which is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013. 10 5< Pa).
[0018] "Liquid fatty alcohol ester" means a fatty alcohol ester which is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013.10 5< Pa).
[0019] By "fillers" we mean particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. Fillers can be organic and / or inorganic.
[0020] By "organic" we mean any compound or polymer whose chemical structure includes at least one carbon atom.
[0021] By "inorganic" we mean any compound or polymer whose chemical structure does not include a carbon atom.
[0022] By "lipophilic gelling agent" we mean a compound capable of gelling a fatty phase.
[0023] The "n-octanol / water partition coefficient" of a compound is the ratio between the equilibrium concentration of a compound in n-octanol and the concentration of the same compound in water.
[0024] "Calculated logP" of a compound means the logarithm of the n-octanol / water partition coefficient of a compound calculated using KOWWIN™ v1.68 software included in the EPI (Estimation Programs Interface) Suite™ developed by the US Environmental Protection Agency's Office of Pollution Prevention and Toxics and Syracuse Research Corporation (SRC). This software suite is available for free download at: https: / / www.epa.gov / tsca-screening-tools / epi-suitetm-estimation-program-interface .
[0025] By "keratin materials" we mean skin, lips, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, scalp, nails, in particular of human beings.
[0026] "Compound of plant origin" means a compound directly derived from plants or obtained by processing plants, preferably by biological processing of plants or obtained from at least one other compound of plant origin. For example, an ester of plant origin may be obtained from an alcohol and a carboxylic acid, the alcohol and / or the carboxylic acid being of plant origin.
[0027] The expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
[0028] The expression "comprising" includes the expression "consisting of".
[0029] The expression "between ... and ..." must be understood inclusively. Anhydrous cosmetic composition
[0030] The subject of the present invention is an anhydrous cosmetic composition as defined above.
[0031] As explained above, the applicant added alcohol to the vegetable oils in order to obtain a more fluid and lighter oily composition, with a dry feel, i.e. capable of penetrating quickly into the skin without leaving a greasy film. However, since vegetable oils are poorly or not at all miscible in alcohol, the compositions obtained are cloudy, which, in addition to being visually unattractive, can result in non-uniform application of the oil to the skin or hair. The applicant surprisingly discovered that in order to obtain a transparent oily composition, it is necessary to add compound(s) C to the composition while respecting specific proportions between the content of vegetable oil(s), the content of C2-C4 monoalcohol(s) and the content of compound(s) C.
[0032] Such a composition is particularly interesting because it is very simple to prepare due to the small number of ingredients included in the composition.
[0033] The composition does not include fillers because fillers are not easily dispersible in an oily composition and do not allow a transparent composition to be obtained.
[0034] Preferably, 95% ≤ x + y + z ≤ 100%. More preferably, 97% ≤ x + y + z ≤ 100%.
[0035] Preferably, the composition may not comprise compounds selected from the group consisting of ether oxides, lipophilic gelling agents and mixtures thereof. Lipophilic gelling agents can in fact provide thickness to the composition, which is counterproductive to obtaining an oily composition with a dry feel.
[0036] An ether oxide is an organic compound of formula RO-R', where R and R' are alkyl groups. An example of an ether oxide is dicaprylyl ether.
[0037] Preferably, the composition may not comprise liquid fatty acid esters or liquid fatty alcohol esters other than compound C or liquid fatty acid esters other than those constituting the vegetable oil.
[0038] The calculated logP value of compound C may preferably be between 4.0 and 8.6, more preferably between 4.0 and 7.7.
[0039] Compound C can preferably be of plant origin. The addition of a compound C of plant origin makes it possible to obtain an oil composition that is even more environmentally friendly.
[0040] As described above, compound C is selected from the group consisting of liquid fatty acid esters, liquid fatty alcohol esters, liquid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof. Liquid fatty acid esters and liquid fatty alcohol esters
[0041] Advantageously, compound C may be chosen from the group consisting of liquid fatty acid esters, liquid fatty alcohol esters and mixtures thereof.
[0042] The liquid fatty acid esters and / or liquid fatty alcohol esters may preferably be of plant origin.
[0043] A liquid fatty acid ester of plant origin may, for example, be obtained by esterification of a fatty acid and an alcohol, the fatty acid and / or the alcohol being of plant origin.
[0044] A liquid fatty alcohol ester of plant origin can, for example, be obtained by esterification of an acid and a fatty alcohol, the acid and / or the fatty alcohol being of plant origin. Liquid fatty acid monoesters and liquid fatty alcohol monoesters
[0045] Compound C may be selected from the group consisting of liquid fatty acid monoesters, liquid fatty alcohol monoesters and mixtures thereof.
[0046] The liquid fatty acid monoesters may have the formula R 1 C(=O)OR 1 ', in which R 1 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 3 to 15 carbon atoms and R 1 ' represents a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 3 to 10 carbon atoms. R 1 may preferably represent a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 3 to 9 carbon atoms, more preferably from 5 to 9 carbon atoms.
[0047] The total number of carbon atoms included in the radicals R 1 and R 1 ' may preferably be between 8 and 22, more preferably between 9 and 18. Diesters and triesters
[0048] Compound C may also be selected from the group consisting of liquid fatty acid diesters, liquid fatty alcohol diesters, liquid fatty acid triesters, liquid fatty alcohol triesters and mixtures thereof.
[0049] According to a preferred embodiment, compound C may be chosen from the group consisting of compounds with the following INCI names: Isononyl Isononanoate, Dibutyl Adipate, Propylheptyl Caprylate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Caprylyl Caprylate, Caprylyl Caprate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Hexyl Laurate, Isopropyl Myristate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Ethylhexyl Caprylate, Ethylhexyl Caprate, Triheptanoin and mixtures thereof. Liquid fatty alcohols
[0050] Advantageously, compound C can be chosen from liquid fatty alcohols.
[0051] Liquid fatty alcohols may preferably be of vegetable origin.
[0052] Liquid fatty alcohols can be linear or branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated.
[0053] Compound C may be chosen from unsaturated linear liquid fatty alcohols, preferably from unsaturated linear liquid fatty alcohols comprising from 11 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0054] Compound C may be chosen from branched liquid fatty alcohols, preferably from branched liquid fatty alcohols comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
[0055] Compound C may preferably be selected from liquid fatty alcohols selected from the group consisting of linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, oleic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-butyl-1-octanol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-decyl-1-tetradecanol and mixtures thereof. Compound C may more preferably be 2-octyl-1-dodecanol.
[0056] The total content by weight of compound(s) C z may preferably be between 55% and 80% relative to the total weight of the composition. Vegetable oil(s)
[0057] As described above, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one vegetable oil. The vegetable oil may be chosen from virgin oils, refined oils and mixtures thereof.
[0058] By "virgin oil" we mean a vegetable oil resulting from a single cold pressing, not undergoing any chemical treatment and containing no additives.
[0059] "Refined oil" means a vegetable oil extracted using a solvent and which undergoes one or more treatments selected from neutralization, bleaching, deodorization or winterization.
[0060] According to a preferred embodiment, the vegetable oil has a dielectric constant ε at 25°C greater than or equal to 2.5.
[0061] The vegetable oil that can be used in the composition according to the present invention can be chosen from the group consisting of camelina oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, avocado oil, peanut oil, camellia oil, safflower oil, calophyllum oil, rapeseed oil, copra oil, coriander oil, cottonseed oil, pumpkin seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil or liquid jojoba wax, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn germ oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, vernonia oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, passionflower oil, grape seed oil, rosehip oil, castor oil, rye oil, sesame oil, rice bran oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, and mixtures thereof.The vegetable oil may preferably be selected from the group consisting of hazelnut oil, jojoba oil, macadamia oil, camellia oil, coriander oil, olive oil and mixtures thereof.
[0062] The total content by weight of vegetable oil(s) x may preferably be between 10% and 35% relative to the total weight of the composition. C2-C4 monoalcohol(s)
[0063] The C2-C4 monoalcohol may preferably be selected from the group consisting of ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butan-1-ol, isobutanol and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the C2-C4 monoalcohol is ethanol.
[0064] For example, the composition according to the present invention may comprise ethanol as a C2-C4 monoalcohol and at least one compound C selected from the group consisting of liquid fatty acid esters, liquid fatty alcohol esters and mixtures thereof.
[0065] By way of example, the composition according to the present invention may comprise ethanol as C2-C4 monoalcohol and at least one compound C chosen from liquid fatty alcohols.
[0066] The total content by weight of C2-C4 monoalcohol(s) may preferably be between 10% and 21% relative to the total weight of the composition. Other compound(s) D
[0067] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one compound D other than vegetable oil, C2-C4 monoalcohol and compound C. The total content of compound(s) D may be between 0.2% and 10%, preferably between 0.2% and 5%, more preferably between 0.2% and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. At least one adjuvant and / or at least one active ingredient conventionally used in cosmetics may be used as compound D. By way of example, mention may be made of fat-soluble active ingredients such as vitamin E, fat-soluble natural colorants, antioxidants, menthol and its derivatives. Process
[0068] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined above. The composition is preferably applied to the skin. Use
[0069] A disclosed embodiment not forming part of the present invention relates to the use of at least one compound C as defined above to facilitate the solubilization of a vegetable oil in a C2-C4 monoalcohol, preferably chosen from the group consisting of ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butan-1-ol, isobutanol and mixtures thereof, more preferably ethanol.
[0070] Preferably, in this use, the total content x, in % by weight, of vegetable oil, the total content y, in % by weight, of C2-C4 monoalcohol, and the total content z, in % by weight, of compound C are such that: 90 % ≤ x + y + z ≤ 100 % ; And z ≥ 0,21 y − 0,56 x . EXAMPLES
[0071] The following examples will provide a better understanding of the invention, without however being limiting in nature. The raw materials are named by their chemical or INCI name. The quantities indicated are in % by weight of raw materials, unless otherwise stated.
[0072] The compositions according to Examples 1 to 43 were prepared according to the procedure described below in order to show the superiority of the compositions according to the present invention compared to compositions of a different nature. The logP values calculated for each of the compounds C included in the compositions are indicated in the table below. The INCI name "Alcohol" corresponds to the chemical name "ethanol". [Table 1] Compounds (INCI Names) Example 1 (Comparison) Example 2 (Comparison) Example 3 (Comparison) Example 4 (Comparison) Alcohol 10,0 10,0 10,0 10,0 Corylus Avellana (Hazelnut) Seed Oil 40,0 40,0 38,5 37,5 Isononyl Isononanoate (DUB ININ from Stéarinerie Dubois) 50,0 51,5 52,5 Diisopropyl Sebacate (DUB DIS from Stéarinerie Dubois) 50,0 Vegetable Oil / Compound C Ratio 10:12,5 10:12,5 10:13,4 10:14 logP Compound C calculated 5,2 7,4 7,4 7,4 Miscibility at D+1 + / - + / - + / - + / - (0,21 y - 0.56) x 61,60 61,60 61,60 57,75 [Table 2] Compounds (INCI Names) Example 5 (Invention) Example 6 (Invention) Example 7 (Invention) Example 8 (Comparative) Alcohol 10,0 10,0 10,0 10,0 Corylus Avellana (Hazelnut) Seed Oil 35,0 35,0 35,0 35,0 Isononyl Isononanoate (DUB ININ from Stéarinerie Dubois) 55,0 Isopropyl Palmitate (BASF) 55,0 Ethylhexyl Palmitate (Cegesoft ®< C24 from BASF) 55,0 Hexyldecanol (Eutanol ®< G16 from BASF) 55,0 Vegetable Oil / Compound C Ratio 10:15,7 10:15,7 10:15,7 10:15,7 logP Compound C calculated 6,7 7,4 8,2 10,6 Miscibility at D+1 + + + - (0,21 y - 0.56) x 53,90 53,90 53,90 53,90 [Table 3] Compounds (INCI Names) Example 9 (Invention) Example 10 (Invention) Example 11 (Invention) Example 12 (Invention) Alcohol 10,0 10,0 10,0 10,0 Corylus Avellana (Hazelnut) Seed Oil 30,0 30,0 16,05 16,05 Propylheptyl Caprylate (Cetiol ®< ) SenSoft from BASF) 73,95 Isononyl Isononanoate (DUB ININ from Stéarinerie Dubois) 60,0 73,95 Diisopropyl Sebacate (DUB DIS from Stéarinerie Dubois) 60,0 Vegetable Oil / Compound C Ratio 10:20 10:20 10:46,1 10:46,1 logP Compound C calculated 5,2 7,4 7,4 7,7 Miscibility at D+1 + + + + (0,21 y - 0.56) x 46,20 46,20 24,72 24,72 [Table 4] Compounds (INCI Names) Example 13 (Invention) Example 14 (Invention) Example 15 (Invention) Example 16 (Invention) Alcohol 10,0 10,0 10,0 10,0 Corylus Avellana (Hazelnut) Seed Oil 12,86 10,0 10,0 Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil 10,0 Dicaprylyl Carbonate (Cetiol ®< CC from BASF) 80,0 Isononyl Isononanoate (DUB ININ from Stéarinerie Dubois) 77,14 80,0 Dibutyl Adipate (Cetiol ®< B from BASF) 80,0 Vegetable Oil / Compound C Ratio 10:60,0 10:80,0 10:80,0 10:80,0 logP Compound C calculated 7,4 7,1 4,3 7,4 Miscibility at D+1 + + + + (0,21 y - 0.56) x 19,80 15,40 15,40 15,40 [Table 5] Compounds (INCI Names) Example 17 (Invention) Example 18 (Invention) Example 19 (Invention) Example 20 (Invention) Alcohol 10,0 10,0 10,0 10,0 Corylus Avellana (Hazelnut) Seed Oil 10,0 10,0 10,0 Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil 10,0 Propylheptyl Caprylate (Cetiol ®< SenSoft from BASF) 80,0 Isononyl Isononanoate (DUB ININ from Stéarinerie Dubois) 80,0 80,0 Octyl Dodecanol (DUB ODOL from Stéarinerie Dubois) 80,0 Vegetable Oil / Compound C Ratio 10:80,0 10:80,0 10:80,0 10:80,0 logP Compound C calculated 7,4 8,6 7,4 7,7 Miscibility at D+1 + + + + (0,21 y - 0.56) x 15,40 15,40 15,40 15,40 [Table 6] Compounds (INCI Names) Example 21 (Invention) Example 22 (Invention) Example 23 (Comparative) Example 24 (Comparative) Alcohol 10,0 10,0 10,0 10,0 Corylus Avellana (Hazelnut) Seed Oil 10,0 10,0 10,0 Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 10,0 Caprylyl Caprylate / Caprate (Cetiol ®< RLF from BASF) 80,0 80,0 Ethylhexyl Stearate (DUB SO from Stéarinerie Dubois) 80,0 Cetyl Ethylhexanoate (Tegosoft ®< CO from Evonik) 80,0 Vegetable Oil / Compound C Ratio 10:80,0 10:80,0 10:80,0 10:80,0 logP Compound C calculated 6,8 à 7,7 6,8 à 7,7 10,6 11,6 Miscibility at D+1 + + - - (0,21 y - 0.56) x 15,40 15,40 15,40 15,40 [Table 7] Compounds (INCI Names) Example 25 (Comparative) Example 26 (Comparative) Example 27 (Comparative) Example 28 (Comparative) Alcohol 10,0 10,0 13,55 13,5 Corylus Avellana (Hazelnut) Seed Oil 10,0 10,0 34,7 26,5 Dicaprylyl Ether (Cetiol ®< OE from BASF) 80,0 Isononyl Isononanoate (DUB ININ from Stéarinerie Dubois) 51,75 60,0 Isohexadecane 80,0 Vegetable Oil / Compound C Ratio 10:80,0 10:80,0 10:14,9 10:22,6 logP Compound C calculated N / A Ether N / A Alkane 7,4 7,4 Miscibility at D+1 - - - + / - (0,21 y - 0.56) x 79,31 60,29 [Table 8] Compounds (INCI Names) Example 29 (Invention) Example 30 (Comparison) Example 31 (Invention) Example 32 (Invention) Alcohol 13,5 15,0 15,0 15,0 Corylus Avellana (Hazelnut) Seed Oil 26,0 31,48 23,60 15,16 Isononyl Isononanoate (DUB ININ from Stéarinerie Dubois) 60,5 53,52 61,40 69,84 Vegetable Oil / Compound C Ratio 10:23,3 10:17,0 10:26,0 10:46,1 logP Compound C calculated 7,4 7,4 7,4 7,4 Miscibility at D+1 + - + + (0,21 y - 0.56) x 59,15 81,53 61,12 39,26 [Table 9] Compounds (INCI Names) Example 33 (Invention) Example 34 (Comparative) Example 35 (Comparative) Example 36 (Comparative) Alcohol 15,0 20,00 20,00 20,00 Corylus Avellana (Hazelnut) Seed Oil 14,16 32,00 29,00 26,50 Isononyl Isononanoate (DUB ININ from Stéarinerie Dubois) 70,84 48,0 51,00 53,50 Vegetable Oil / Compound C Ratio 10:50 10:15,0 10:17,6 10:20,2 logP Compound C calculated 7,4 7,4 7,4 7,4 Miscibility at D+1 + - - - (0,21 y - 0.56) x 36,67 116,48 105,56 96,46 [Table 10] Compounds (INCI Names) Example 37 (Invention) Example 38 (Invention) Example 39 (Invention) Example 40 (Comparative) Alcohol 20,20 20,20 20,20 20,0 Corylus Avellana (Hazelnut) Seed Oil 17,00 14,80 14,80 80,0 Isononyl Isononanoate (DUB ININ from Stéarinerie Dubois) 62,80 65,00 Diisopropyl Sebacate (DUB DIS from Stéarinerie Dubois) 65,00 Vegetable Oil / Compound C Ratio 10:36,9 10:43,9 10:43,9 N / A No compound C logP Compound C calculated 7,4 5,2 7,4 N / A No compound C Miscibility at D+1 + + + - (0,21 y - 0.56) x 62,59 54,49 54,49 N / A No compound C [Table 11] Compounds (INCI Names) Example 41 (Comparative) Example 42 (Comparative) Example 43 (Comparative) Alcohol 20,0 20,0 20,0 Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 80,0 Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil 80,0 Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil 80,0 Vegetable Oil / Compound C Ratio N / A No compound C N / A No compound C N / A No compound C logP Compound C calculated N / A No compound C N / A No compound C N / A No compound C Miscibility at D+1 - - - (0.21 y - 0.56) x N / A No compound C N / A No compound C N / A No compound C Operating mode
[0073] For each of the compositions, the vegetable oil is mixed with compound C (if present) in a syrup bottle using a magnetic stirrer at a temperature of 20 ± 5°C. Ethanol is then added to the bottle and the bottle is closed. Stirring is continued until a clear mixture is obtained. If after 10 min, a clear mixture is not obtained, stirring is stopped. Observations
[0074] In the table above, the symbol (-) indicates a visually cloudy mixture obtained during the preparation of the composition. The compositions for which a clear mixture is obtained are checked on D+1 (24 hours after the preparation of the composition) to ensure that the compositions are still stable and that no cloudiness appears in the composition. The symbol (+) indicates a visually clear mixture obtained during the preparation of the composition, which remains stable on D+1. The symbol (+ / -) indicates a visually clear mixture obtained during the preparation of the composition but not stable on D+1, with cloudiness beginning to form within the mixture. Conclusions
[0075] It has been found that the oily compositions according to the present invention (Examples 5 to 7, 9 to 22, 29, 31 to 33, 37 to 39) are clear. In addition, these compositions are fresh, fluid / light and have a weak oil odor.
[0076] It has also been found that the oily compositions having characteristics different from those according to the present invention (Examples 1 to 4, 8, 23 to 28, 30, 34 to 36, 40 to 43) are visually cloudy either during their preparation or on D+1.
[0077] The compositions of Examples 1 to 4, 27, 28, 30 and 34 to 36 are compositions whose total content by weight of compound C is lower than that of the present invention.
[0078] The compositions of Examples 40 to 43 comprise only vegetable oil and alcohol and do not comprise Compound C as defined in accordance with the present invention. The compositions of Examples 8, 23 and 24 comprise esters having a calculated logP that is different from that of Compound C as defined in accordance with the present invention. The composition of Example 25 comprises an ether oxide that is not Compound C as defined in accordance with the present invention. The composition of Example 26 comprises an alkane that is not Compound C as defined in accordance with the present invention.
[0079] Thus, when a composition does not comprise compound C as defined according to the present invention or in a content different from that defined according to the present invention, a visually cloudy mixture is obtained either immediately during the preparation of the composition or on D+1. Such a mixture may have the consequence that the oil may not be distributed uniformly on the skin or hair, during application of the composition.
Claims
1. An anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising: a) at least one vegetable oil in a total content in weight x of between 10% and 40% relative to the total weight of the composition; and b) at least one C2-C4 monoalcohol, in a total content by weight y of between 5% and 21% relative to the total weight of the composition; and c) at least one compound C different from the compounds constituting the vegetable oil, in a total content by weight z relative to the total weight of the composition, the compound C having a calculated logP value less than or equal to 8.6, preferably between 4.0 and 8.6, more preferably between 4.0 and 7.7, in which: - the compound C is selected from the group consisting of the liquid fatty acid esters, the liquid fatty alcohol esters, the liquid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof; and - the composition comprises no fillers; and 90% ≤ x + y + z ≤ 100%; and z ≥ (0 .21y - 0 .56) x .
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein 95% ≤ x + y + z ≤ 100%, preferably 97% ≤ x + y + z ≤ 100%.
3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the composition does not comprise compounds selected from the group consisting of ether oxides, the lipophilic gelling agents and mixtures thereof.
4. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the C2-C4 monoalcohol is chosen from the group consisting of ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butan-1-ol, isobutanol and mixtures thereof, preferably ethanol.
5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the vegetable oil has a dielectric constant ε at 25°C greater than or equal to 2.5.
6. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition does not comprise liquid fatty acid esters or liquid fatty alcohol esters other than the compound C or liquid fatty acid esters other than those constituting vegetable oil.
7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound C is of plant origin.
8. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound C is chosen from the group consisting of liquid fatty acid monoesters, liquid fatty alcohol monoesters and mixtures thereof.
9. The composition according to claim 8, wherein the liquid fatty acid monoesters correspond to the formula R1C(=O)OR1', wherein : - R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 3 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 9 carbon atoms, more preferably from 5 to 9 carbon atoms; and - R1' represents a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 3 to 10 carbon atoms.
10. The composition according to claim 9, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in the radicals R1 and R1' is between 8 and 22, preferably between 9 and 18.
11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the compound C is selected from the group consisting of the liquid fatty acid diesters, the liquid fatty alcohol diesters, the liquid fatty acid triesters, the liquid fatty alcohol triesters and mixtures thereof.
12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the compound C is chosen from the group consisting of compounds with the following INCI name: Isononyl Isononanoate, Dibutyl Adipate, Propylheptyl Caprylate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Caprylyl Caprylate, Caprylyl Caprate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Hexyl Laurate, Isopropyl Myristate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Ethylhexyl Caprylate, Ethylhexyl Caprate, Triheptanoin and mixtures thereof.
13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the compound C is chosen from the linear unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols, preferably from linear unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols comprising from 11 to 18 carbon atoms.
14. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the compound C is chosen from the branched liquid fatty alcohols, preferably from the branched liquid fatty alcohols comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
15. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the compound C is chosen from liquid fatty alcohols selected from the group consisting of linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, oleic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol, 2-butyl-1-octanol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol, 2-octyl-1-dodecanol and mixtures thereof, preferably 2-octyl-1-dodecanol.
16. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the vegetable oil is selected from the group consisting of camelina oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, avocado oil, peanut oil, camellia oil, safflower oil, calophyllum oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, coriander oil, cottonseed oil, pumpkin seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn germ oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, vernonia oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, passionflower oil, grapeseed oil, rosehip oil, castor oil, rye oil, sesame oil, rice bran oil, soya oil, sunflower oil, and mixtures thereof, preferably from the group consisting of hazelnut oil, jojoba oil, macadamia oil, camellia oil, coriander oil, olive oil and mixtures thereof.
17. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total content by weight of vegetable oil(s) x is between 10% and 35% relative to the total weight of the composition.
18. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total content by weight of C2-C4 y monoalcohol(s) is between 10% and 21% relative to the total weight of the composition.
19. A non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.