Cosmetic compositions consisting of a cyclodextrin with a particle size distribution
Patent Information
- Application Number
- DE602019068540
- Authority / Receiving Office
- DE · DE
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2019-11-05
- Filing Date
- 2019-12-04
- Publication Date
- 2025-04-09
- Estimated Expiration
- 2039-12-04
AI Technical Summary
Cosmetic products face challenges in achieving a pleasant sensory profile while transitioning to natural ingredients, often resulting in degraded sensory properties such as difficulty in spreading, feeling greasy, or having a brittle texture.
Incorporating cyclodextrin in the form of solid particles with specific size distribution (D(4.3) ≤ 12 µm, D(10) ≤ 2.5 µm, D(50) ≤ 10 µm, D(90) ≤ 25 µm) into cosmetic compositions to improve sensory properties.
The use of cyclodextrin particles with controlled size distribution enhances the ease of spreading, provides a soft, powdery, and non-greasy touch, and prevents the formation of stuffed animals, thereby improving the overall sensory profile of cosmetic products.
Description
Technical field
[0001] The invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological compositions comprising at least one cyclodextrin dispersed in the form of solid particles, said particles having a volume average size d(4,3) measured by laser granulometry, less than or equal to 12 µm and a volume size distribution, measured by laser diffraction granulometry, whose characteristic diameters d(10), d(50) and d(90) are such that the diameter d(10) is less than or equal to 2.5 µm, the diameter d(50) is less than or equal to 10 µm, and the diameter d(90) is less than or equal to 25.0 µm. The cyclodextrin is therefore present in an amount greater than its solubility in the physiologically acceptable medium of these compositions. Such compositions have an improved sensory profile, in particular with regard to touch.The invention also relates to the use of said cyclodextrin in order to improve the sensory profile of cosmetic compositions, and as a sensory powder in cosmetics.
[0002] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are capable of being used in all areas of cosmetics, in particular in the care and protection of the skin, personal hygiene, hair care, oral care, makeup and perfumes. Prior art
[0003] A cosmetic product must meet the needs of consumers, who demand efficacy, safety, and sensory properties. Sensory perceptions are the main attraction for consumers to the product used, well before the beneficial effects are observable. The challenge for a cosmetic product is therefore to deliver a beneficial cosmetic effect while providing, before or during application, the most pleasant sensations possible. In order to obtain an interesting and attractive sensory profile, cosmetic product formulations have become increasingly complex over time by integrating ever more functional or sensory ingredients of synthetic origin, generally derived from petrochemicals.
[0004] However, cosmetic products today must meet a new consumer expectation: natural origin, and even more demanding, the naturalness of the compositions. Indeed, consumers are now looking for cosmetic products composed mainly of natural ingredients or of natural origin, with a minimum of chemical modifications or synthetic or petrochemical grafts.
[0005] The elimination of functional or sensory ingredients derived from petrochemicals, or their substitution by ingredients of natural origin, constitutes an important axis of development of new cosmetic products. However, the introduction of these new natural ingredients, or those of natural origin, may be accompanied by a degradation of the sensory properties of the cosmetic product in a more or less marked manner, in terms of their appearance, their setting, their application or their properties once applied to the skin or appendages. Thus, compositions meeting the criteria of naturalness may prove difficult to spread, fluff or provide, upon application, a crunchy sensation, a brittle sensation, or an insufficient slippery sensation. These insufficient or degraded sensory perceptions are detrimental to the quality or image of a cosmetic product.
[0006] In the field of skin care creams, for example, particularly those in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, the commonly used functional ingredients are emulsifiers, which are surfactants derived from petrochemicals. The substitution of these surfactants with natural compounds is still a subject of active research. One type of emulsifying system has been developed by the applicant, and is the subject of a patent application FR1762841 that has not been published to date. This emulsifying system is a mixture of a beta-cyclodextrin and a natural water-in-oil emulsifying agent, such as, for example, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, which makes it possible to best adjust the physicochemical and sensory properties of the compositions and to obtain oil-in-water emulsions of suitable and stable viscosity.The use of cyclodextrins, having a volume average particle size of less than 12µm, for the control of malodors is disclosed in application WO94 / 22501.
[0007] When producing emulsions, for example creams, it has been observed with this natural emulsifying system developed by the applicant, very interesting and acceptable sensory perceptions, but entirely perfectible. Compared to formulations comprising petrochemical emulsifiers, creams comprising this natural emulsifying system may, on certain skins, be less easy to spread, less penetrating, likely to form fluff, and may have a less soft and less powdery feel, and sometimes more greasy.
[0008] Sensory ingredients are ingredients added to cosmetic compositions to adjust their sensory profile through physical effects. Among the most commonly used is talc, generally used to provide a soft, powdery, and velvety feel, while allowing the absorption of lipids, particularly those of natural origin such as sebum generated by the skin, or those intentionally introduced into a cosmetic composition. However, recent studies point to the possible toxicity of talc in its dry powder form, which is pushing the cosmetics industry to seek natural alternatives to this ingredient. In the interest of effectiveness, a substitute is being sought that reproduces the sensory perception of touch that talc has and its lipid absorption capacity. Summary of the invention
[0009] The subject of the present invention, according to a first aspect, is a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising at least one cyclodextrin present, at least partially in the form of solid particles dispersed in a physiologically acceptable medium, said particles having a volume average size d(4,3) measured by laser granulometry, less than or equal to 12 µm, and preferably less than or equal to 8 µm and a volume size distribution, measured by laser diffraction granulometry, whose characteristic diameters d(10), d(50) and d(90) are such that: a. the diameter d(10) is less than or equal to 2.5 µm, b. the diameter d(50) is less than or equal to 10.0 µm, and c. the diameter d(90) is less than or equal to 25.0 µm. The invention also provides a solution for improving the sensory properties of cosmetic products by means of such a cyclodextrin.
[0010] The applicant has in fact discovered, surprisingly, that the use of a cyclodextrin in the form of a powder, composed of particles of selected size, and preferably selected according to their particular size distribution, made it possible to obtain cosmetic compositions having very advantageous and improved sensory properties, in particular in terms of ease of spreading, and a soft, powdery, and non-greasy feel.
[0011] In cosmetic compositions, cyclodextrins are usually used as an active molecule stabilizing agent, or as an agent improving the bioavailability of active molecules, or as an agent promoting the dispersibility or solubility in water of active molecules. Cyclodextrins are thus known to improve the effectiveness of cosmetic active ingredients, or even allow their effects to be observed. However, cyclodextrins are not known to improve the sensory properties of cosmetic or dermatological compositions.
[0012] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cosmetic or dermatological composition or product" means any mixture of raw materials intended to be brought into contact with keratin materials (such as skin, hair, body hair, nails, lips and external genitalia, or with teeth and oral mucous membranes with a view, exclusively or mainly, to cleaning them, perfuming them, modifying their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odors. This definition also includes dermo-cosmetic compositions. However, it excludes hygiene articles such as sanitary towels or diapers.
[0013] A second subject of the invention relates to the use, in a cosmetic or dermatological composition, of at least one cyclodextrin, at least partially present in the form of solid particles dispersed in a physiologically acceptable medium, characterized in that the cyclodextrin particles have a volume average size d(4.3), measured by laser granulometry, less than or equal to 12 µm, and preferably less than or equal to 8 µm, and a volume size distribution, measured by laser diffraction granulometry, whose characteristic diameters d(10), d(50) and d(90) are such that: a. the diameter d(10) is less than or equal to 2.5 µm, b. the diameter d(50) is less than or equal to 10.0 µm, and c. the diameter d(90) is less than or equal to 25.0 µm to improve the sensory properties of said composition, preferably to provide ease of spreading, and / or a soft, powdery, non-greasy feel, and / or prevent the formation of fluff.
[0014] A third subject of the invention relates to a process for preparing said cosmetic compositions containing a cyclodextrin according to the invention. Description of the invention Cyclodextrin
[0015] The composition according to the invention uses at least one cyclodextrin present, at least partially, in the form of solid particles.
[0016] In this Application, the term "cyclodextrin" means and includes any of the cyclodextrins otherwise known, such as native and unsubstituted cyclodextrins containing from 6 to 12 glucose units linked by covalent bonds between carbons 1 and 4, and in particular alpha-, beta- and gamma-cyclodextrins containing 6, 7 and 8 glucose units respectively.
[0017] This term also covers "cyclodextrin derivatives", namely molecules in which at least some of the OH hydroxyl groups have been transformed into OR groups, where R generally denotes an alkyl group. From this point of view, cyclodextrin derivatives include in particular methylated and ethylated cyclodextrins, but also those substituted with a hydroxyalkyl group such as hydroxypropylated and hydroxyethylated cyclodextrins.
[0018] However, due to their completely natural character, the preferred cyclodextrins according to the present invention are native, i.e. unmodified, alpha-, beta- and gamma-cyclodextrins.
[0019] According to a preferred embodiment, the cyclodextrin used in the composition according to the invention is a beta-cyclodextrin, preferably “native”.
[0020] Cyclodextrin may be present in the form of a crystalline, pseudo-crystalline or amorphous powder.
[0021] Cyclodextrin can be in a so-called "free" form, i.e. a form where its cavity is empty, or in the form known as an inclusion complex. Preferably, the cyclodextrin is in a free form.
[0022] In the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, the cyclodextrin is present at least partially in the form of solid particles. By "at least partially", the applicant preferably means that at least 5% by weight of cyclodextrin, relative to the total weight of cyclodextrin in the composition, is present in the form of solid particles. Preferably, at least 10% by weight of cyclodextrin, relative to the total weight of cyclodextrin in the composition, is present in the form of solid particles, more preferably at least 15% by weight, even more preferably at least 25% by weight, still more preferably at least 50% by weight, even more preferably at least 75% by weight, and most preferably at least 95% by weight.
[0023] According to one embodiment, the content of cyclodextrin in the form of solid particles in the cosmetic or dermatological composition ranges from 0.1% to 100% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Preferably, this content ranges from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight.
[0024] In addition to its presence in solid form, the cyclodextrin may be present in the composition according to the invention in dissolved form, due to the liquid-solid equilibrium, in the free state or in the state of an inclusion complex, but the dissolved cyclodextrin does not confer on the compositions the improved sensory properties obtained with the solid cyclodextrin particles previously described.
[0025] As is known, or easily accessible by simple measurements, the solubility of a cyclodextrin in a physiologically acceptable medium, whether it comprises an aqueous and / or oily phase, is the value of the concentration of dissolved cyclodextrin for which the physiologically acceptable medium is saturated with cyclodextrin. When the cyclodextrin concentration exceeds this solubility, in other words when the physiologically acceptable medium is "at saturation" with cyclodextrin, the cyclodextrin no longer dissolves in the medium, and solid particles of cyclodextrin disperse while retaining their divided solid state.
[0026] Thus, to ensure a minimum content of cyclodextrin in the form of solid particles, it is possible to consider the solubility of said cyclodextrin, preferably at 20°C, in the cosmetic composition. Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the content of cyclodextrin in the composition according to the invention is greater than the solubility of said cyclodextrin in the physiologically acceptable medium of the cosmetic composition. In particular, the content of cyclodextrin in the composition may be 5% greater than its solubility in the physiologically acceptable medium of said composition, preferably 10% greater than its solubility in said medium, more preferably 15% greater than its solubility in said medium, most preferably 25% greater than its solubility in said medium, and more preferably 50% greater than its solubility in said medium.
[0027] In particular, the total content of cyclodextrin present in the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention represents from 1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the physiologically acceptable medium of said composition, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight. In the particular case where the cyclodextrin is a beta-cyclodextrin, and where the physiologically acceptable medium consists of water, the cyclodextrin is preferably native, and the total content of cyclodextrin represents more than 1.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of water present in the composition, a value corresponding approximately to the solubility of beta-cyclodextrin in water at 20°C.
[0028] When the cosmetic composition is a powdery composition, called "dry" in the sense that it is in the form of a powder or a mixture of powders, the solubility of the cyclodextrin can be considered to be equal to zero. Indeed, powdery cosmetic compositions are generally made up of a mixture of solid ingredients in the form of powders, which may contain residual moisture ranging from 0.01% to 20%, for example at most 16% for beta-cyclodextrin, and optionally a non-aqueous fatty binder. This moisture is the water bound to the powders, and is not available for any solubilization, and therefore, in particular, does not allow the cyclodextrin to be solubilized. Thus, in the case of these dry cosmetic compositions, the cyclodextrin is always present in an amount greater than its solubility in said compositions.
[0029] In the context of the present invention, the cyclodextrin is present in the cosmetic or dermatological composition, at least partially, in the form of solid particles, of average volume size d(4.3), measured by laser granulometry, less than or equal to 12 µm, and preferably less than or equal to 8 µm.
[0030] According to a preferred embodiment, the average volume size of the solid cyclodextrin particles is between 3 µm and 12 µm, and preferably between 4 µm and 8 µm. The solid cyclodextrin particles are characterized by a volume size distribution, measured by laser diffraction granulometry, whose characteristic diameters d(10), d(50) and d(90) are such that: the diameter d(10) is less than or equal to 2.5 µm, the diameter d(50) is less than or equal to 10.0 µm, and the diameter d(90) is less than or equal to 25.0 µm.
[0031] The characteristic diameters d(10), d(50) and d(90), as defined in ISO 13320:2009 under the notations x10, x50 and x90, are the particle diameters corresponding respectively to 10%, 50% and 90%, of the cumulative size distribution in volume.
[0032] Even more preferably, the solid cyclodextrin particles are characterized by a volume size distribution, measured by laser diffraction granulometry, having a coefficient of variation less than or equal to 73%. As defined in ISO 13320:2009, the coefficient of variation of the particle size distribution is the standard deviation of the particle size distribution divided by the volume mean size d(4.3), also called the volume mean diameter.
[0033] Solid cyclodextrin particles can be of any geometric shape, regular or irregular, and can be well-individualized cyclodextrin crystals or agglomerates of cyclodextrin crystals linked together by crystalline bridges.
[0034] The volume average size, generally noted d4.3 or d(4.3), is determined from the volume size distributions measured by laser diffraction granulometry, for example using a laser granulometer from the MasterSizer ®< range, for example “Mastersizer 2000 ™<”, “Mastersizer 3000 ™<”, “Mastersizer 3000E ™<”, from Malvern Instruments ®< , or a laser granulometer “Particula LA960” from Horiba ©< . These laser diffraction measurement methods can be implemented in the wet or dry process. When the wet process is used, it is recommended to use 2-propanol as the measuring fluid. According to this preferred embodiment, the cyclodextrin is therefore in the form of solid particles whose volume size distribution, measured by laser diffraction granulometry, has the following characteristics: a. A volume average size d(4.3) less than or equal to 12 µm, and preferably less than or equal to 8 µm, b. A coefficient of variation less than or equal to 73%. Fields of cosmetics concerned by the invention
[0035] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are suitable for use in all areas of cosmetics, such as skin care and protection, personal hygiene, hair care, oral care, perfumes, eaux de toilette and colognes, hair removal treatments, and makeup and makeup removal for eyelids, eyelashes, cheeks, lips, nails, or other parts of the body.
[0036] Preferably, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are used in the care and protection of the skin, hair care, oral care, makeup and makeup removal, and hair removal treatments.
[0037] In the field of skin or lip care, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be creams, emulsions, lotions, gels and oils for the skin, anti-aging or anti-wrinkle products, beauty masks, sun products, self-tanning products, skin whitening products or even lip balms.
[0038] In the field of personal hygiene and body care, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be toilet soaps, liquid soaps, deodorant soaps, shower gels, shampoos, bath powders, bath and shower preparations in the form of salts, foams, oils, dental hygiene products such as toothpastes and mouthwashes, and shaving products, make-up removal products.
[0039] In the hair care field, cosmetic compositions may be products for waving or straightening, or hair styling products, hair setting products, hair cleaning products such as lotions or powders or shampoos, hair care products such as lotions or creams or oils, hair styling products in the form of lotions or hairsprays or brilliantines, or hair coloring products.
[0040] In the field of makeup, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be foundations in liquid, paste or powder form, as well as makeup products intended to be applied to the eyelashes, nails, cheeks or lips such as lipsticks. Sensory powder
[0041] In the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the cyclodextrin fulfills the function of sensory powder. By "sensory powder", the applicant intends to designate a cosmetic ingredient in solid form, preferably in the form of a powder, having characteristics of shape, surface condition, structure or mechanical properties, in particular flexibility and hardness, and particle size, giving it beneficial sensory effects. In the context of the present invention, these beneficial sensory effects may be a reduction in the feeling of oiliness, a drier and softer feel, and a non-sticky finish. Galenic
[0042] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be in the form of a gel such as an aqueous or hydroalcoholic gel, an aqueous and / or oily liquid dispersion, such as an emulsion, a suspension, a lotion, a serum, an aerosol or a mousse, or in the form of a paste or a powder, or in the form of a solid.
[0043] According to one embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition is a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion. While water-in-oil emulsions provide a greasy, slippery and non-soft feel due to their ability to form a lipid film on the surface of the skin, oil-in-water emulsions generally provide a softer and less greasy feel than these. Emulsions can be presented in different forms of use depending on their formulation, from fluid to thick: serum, milk, mousse, fluid or thick cream, or gel. Such emulsions have multiple fields of application: face and body milks, sun products (sprayable milks and emulsions), makeup (mascaras, foundations, eye shadows, cream), face care cream, cold creams, body and hand creams, hair care (conditioners, shampoos, creams and cream masks).
[0044] Preferably, the emulsion according to the invention is an oil-in-water emulsion in which the total cyclodextrin content is between 1.8% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of water. Preferably in this embodiment, said cyclodextrin is a beta-cyclodextrin. According to a preferred embodiment, the emulsion may be an emulsion stabilized by an emulsifying system consisting of beta-cyclodextrin according to the invention and an emulsifier of natural origin as defined below.
[0045] According to another embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a liquid, aqueous or fatty dispersion, such as for example a lotion, which contains a liquid, aqueous or fatty phase, and a pulverulent phase, said pulverulent phase comprising at least one cyclodextrin present at least partially in the form of solid particles according to the invention.
[0046] According to another embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a paste for cosmetic use, in the form of a semi-solid medium consisting of a highly viscous continuous phase in which solid cyclodextrin particles are dispersed. It may, for example, take the form of a toothpaste or a lip balm.
[0047] According to another embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a solid, such as a lipstick, a deodorant stick, or soap.
[0048] According to another embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a powder for cosmetic use, which comprises a pulverulent phase comprising pigments and fillers, and a fatty phase comprising fatty substances, acting as binders to give the finished product defined properties of density, emollience and softness during application. Such a powdery composition takes the form of eyeshadow, blush, concealer, face and body powder, and face and body makeup product.
[0049] In this case of a cosmetic composition in powder form, the composition can be obtained by a “slurry” type process, i.e. by dispersing a powdery phase in a hydroalcoholic solvent phase, then evaporating the solvent phase.
[0050] Thus, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic or dermatological composition is in the form of a skin care product, hair care product, oral care product, makeup, or hair removal product. Components of the cosmetic composition Physiologically acceptable environment
[0051] The composition according to the invention also comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, and preferably cosmetically acceptable, that is to say which does not present any harmful side effects and in particular which does not produce redness, heating, tightness or tingling unacceptable for a user of cosmetic products.
[0052] The physiologically acceptable medium comprises, for example, a fatty phase and / or an aqueous phase. Fat phase
[0053] The fatty phase may contain at least one oil.
[0054] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "oil" means a compound which is liquid at room temperature (25°C), and which, when introduced at a rate of at least 1% by weight into water at 25°C, is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to a level of less than 10% by weight, relative to the weight of oil introduced into the water.
[0055] The liquid fatty phase advantageously comprises one or more non-volatile oils which provide an emollient effect on the skin. Fatty esters such as cetearyl isononoate, isotridecyl isononoate, isostearyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyl decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or lactate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, tracetin, tricprin, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, coco caprate and caprylate mixture, C12 alcohol benzoates may be mentioned. to C15, glycol esters such as butylene glycol cocoate, glycerin triisostearate, tocopherol acetate, higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid,oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid, higher fatty alcohols such as oleic alcohol, vegetable oils such as avocado oil, camellia oil, hazelnut oil, tsubaki oil, cashew nut oil, argan oil, soybean oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, maize oil, wheat germ oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, jojoba oil, peanut oil, olive oil and mixtures thereof, vegetable butters such as shea butter, camellia butter.,
[0056] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a non-volatile oil chosen from the mixture of coconut caprate and caprylate, glycol esters such as butylene glycol cocoate and their mixture.
[0057] These oils can be hydrocarbon or silicone type oils such as paraffin oil, squalane, petrolatum, dimethyl siloxanes and their mixtures.
[0058] The liquid fatty phase may also optionally include volatile oils. A volatile oil is an oil that can evaporate from the skin in less than an hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oils may be chosen, for example, from silicone oils or short fatty acid triglycerides to reduce the greasy feel.
[0059] Preferably, the composition according to the invention only contains oils of renewable origin and in particular oils of vegetable origin, preferably refined.
[0060] The quantity of oil contained in the composition according to the invention preferably represents from 10 to 80% of the total weight of this composition.
[0061] The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention may also advantageously contain at least one fatty phase structuring agent such as a lipophilic gelling agent.
[0062] The fatty phase may also contain one or more waxes and / or one or more pasty compounds.
[0063] The term "pasty compound" refers to lipophilic fatty substances which, like waxes, are capable of undergoing a reversible liquid / solid state change and have an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state, but which differ from waxes in that they contain, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
[0064] The term "wax" means a fatty substance with a reversible liquid / solid state change, having a melting point above 30°C and generally below 90°C, which is liquid under the conditions of preparation of the composition and has an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. The waxes used according to the invention may consist of polar or apolar waxes or a mixture of the two. The term "apolar" means a wax containing only carbon, hydrogen and / or phosphorus atoms and in particular a hydrocarbon.
[0065] Polar waxes may in particular be chosen from animal waxes, vegetable waxes and synthetic or silicone waxes containing polar groups such as esters. Mention may thus be made of Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, beeswax (Cera alba), Chinese insect wax (Ericerus pela), Japanese wax, Sumac wax, Montan wax, C8-C20 acid triesters and glycerin such as glycerin tribehenate, acetylated glycol stearate marketed in particular by the company VEVY under the trade name CETACENE, and mixtures thereof. These waxes may in particular be used in pre-dispersed form in an oil, as is the case with the mixture of candelilla wax and jojoba seed oil marketed by the company INA TRADING under the trade name GREEN GREASE.
[0066] The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one film-forming polymer, capable of providing hold and / or non-transfer properties and / or shine to the makeup conferred by the composition. Aqueous phase
[0067] The composition according to the invention may, in addition, comprise an aqueous phase comprising water and optionally, one or more water-miscible organic solvents, and / or one or more rheology agents.
[0068] The composition according to the invention may in particular comprise a water content ranging from 10 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0069] The rheology agent may in particular be a thickening agent for the aqueous phase, a gelling agent or a suspending agent, such as for example gums derived from plants such as gum arabic, konjac gum, guar gum or their derivatives; gums extracted from algae such as alginates or carrageenans; gums derived from microbial fermentation such as xanthans, mannans, scleroglucans or their derivatives; cellulose and its derivatives such as carboxymethylcellulose or hydroxyethylcellulose; starch and its derivatives such as in particular modified starches, in particular acetylated, carboxymethylated, octenylsuccinate or hydroxypropylated; synthetic polymers such as polyacrylic acids or carbomers.
[0070] According to a preferred embodiment, the rheology agent is xanthan gum.
[0071] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a rheology agent chosen from natural polysaccharides derived from plants or fermentation, optionally modified. Surfactants
[0072] The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more surfactants, preferably chosen from water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsifiers, preferably of natural origin.
[0073] The oil-in-water emulsifier may in particular be chosen from optionally polyethoxylated sorbitan esters, fatty acid esters of glycerol, fatty acid esters or polyesters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, polyether-modified polysiloxanes, fatty alcohol ethers of polyethylene glycol, alkylpolyglycosides and hydrogenated lecithin, without this list being limiting.
[0074] The water-in-oil (W / O) emulsifier may be chosen from non-ethoxylated fatty esters of polyols, and in particular from non-ethoxylated fatty esters of glycerol, polyglycerols, sorbitol, sorbitan, anhydrodrohexitols such as in particular isosorbide, mannitol, xylitol, erythritol, maltitol, sucrose, glucose, polydextrose, hydrogenated glucose syrups, dextrins and hydrolyzed starches.
[0075] The W / O emulsifier may be chosen from non-ethoxylated fatty esters of polyols obtained from fatty acid or by transesterification from oil or mixtures of oils. The fatty acids used comprise from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. These acids may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and may have one or more side hydroxyl functions. The oils may be saturated or unsaturated, from liquid to solid at room temperature, and may optionally have hydroxyl functions, preferably with an iodine number of between 1 and 145, and in particular from 5 to 105.
[0076] The W / O emulsifier of natural origin can also be chosen from products that are naturally biodegradable in a hydrated natural environment, with in particular a Hydrophilic-Lipophilic balance (HLB) of between 1.5 and 6, preferably between 2 and 5 and even better between 3 and 5.
[0077] The W / O emulsifier of natural origin may be chosen in particular from fatty esters of glycerol, and in particular from oleates, stearates, isostearates of glycerol such as for example the following products: glyceryl laurate HLB 5.2, glyceryl oleate HLB 4 such as IMWITOR 948, glyceryl isostearate Schercemol GMIS HLB 3.5 from Lubrizol Schercemol and glyceryl monostearate HLB 3.5 from Sympatens-GMS.
[0078] It can also be chosen from fatty esters of sorbitan or sorbitol, in particular from laurates, palmitate, oleates, stearate, isostearates of sorbitan such as for example the products sorbitan trioleate Kosteran-O / 3 HLB 1.8; sorbitan oleate MONTANE 80 VG or SPAN 80-LQ-(RB) or Kosteran-O / 1 HLB 4.3; sorbitan isostearate Kosteran-I / 1 HLB 4.3, sorbitan stearate Kosteran-S / 1 HLB 4.7; sorbitan monopalmitate HLB 6.6; sorbitan laurate Kosteran-L / 1 HLB 8.6, .
[0079] It can also be chosen from sucrose fatty esters such as Sisterna sucrose distearate SP60-C, Sisterna sucrose polystearate SP10-C, and sucrose cocoate HLB 6.
[0080] The W / O emulsifier of natural origin may in particular be chosen from polyglycerol esters and preferably from esters resulting from the reaction of polyglycerols comprising from 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 3 to 6 glycerol units with at least one partially hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated vegetable oil with an iodine value of between 1 and 15, and in particular from 5 to 10. It may in particular be oleic, stearic, isostearic and ricinoleic esters of polyglycerols and in particular the following products: polyglyceryl-4 isostearate HLB 3 (such as HYDRIOL ®< PGI from HYDRIOR), polyglyceryl-10 pentaoleate HLB 3.5 (such as DECAGLYN 5-OV), polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate (such as HEXAGLYN PR-15), polyglyceryl-2 sesquiisostearate HLB ~ 4 (such as Hostcerin DGI from Clariant and Dermofeel ®< GO soft from Evonik Dr.Straetmans), polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate HLB 3.5, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate HLB 4 (as IMWITOR 600), polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate HLB: ~ 4 (as Dermofeel ®< PGPR from Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbH), polyglyceryl-2 sesquioleate HLB 4 (as Dermofeel ®< GO soft from Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbH), polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate (as Emulpharma ®< PG20 from Res Pharma), polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate HLB: 5.5 (as Plurol ®< Diisostearic CG from Gattefossé, Lameform ®< TGI from BASF, IMWITOR ®< PG3 DIS from IOI Oleo GmbH, Cithrol ™< PG32IS from Croda, DUB ISO G3 from Stéarinerie Dubois, Polyaldo ®< 3-1-S from Lonza, Jolee 7245 from Oléon and MASSOCARE PG3D from Masso), polyglyceryl-3 oleate HLB 6.2 (as I-MUL PGO 31 from Ivanhoe Industries), polyglyceryl-3 monostearate LB 7.2, polyglyceryl-4 oleate HLB 8 (as HYDRIOL ®< PGMO.4 from HYDRIOR), polyglyceryl-5 dioleate HLB 8 (as Dermofeel ®< G 5 DO from Evonik Dr.Straetmans GmbH), polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (like Dehymuls PGPH from Cognis), polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate (like Emulpharma PG20 from Respharma), polyglyceryl-3 cocoate (like Emulpharma ®< Ecotech from Res Pharma).
[0081] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, as W / O emulsifier, the ester resulting from the reaction of polyglycerol-3 and isostearic acid (INCI name: polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate).
[0082] The W / O emulsifier of natural origin can consist of mixtures of fatty esters, in particular polyglycerol fatty esters, sorbitan fatty esters or glucose esters, such as in particular mixtures such as Nikkomulse WO-NS from Nikko Chemicals (Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, disteardimonium hectorite), Tego Care LTP from Evonik (sorbitan laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, dilauryl citrate), Sympatens-W / 4500 (sorbitan oleate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate), Sympatens-O / 2500 G (sorbitan stearate, methylglucose sesquistearate), Symbio ®< muls WO from Dr. Straetmans (polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, cetyl ricinoleate, glyceryl caprate, cera alba, magnesium stearate, aluminum stearate), Ecomuls 2 in 1 from Natura-Tec (glyceryl oleate, polyglyceryl-3-polyricinoleate, olea europaea (olive) oil unsaponifiables), HIPEgel Olea from Alchemy (glycerin, isopropyl palmitate, water, sucrose stearate, sucrose laurate).
[0083] According to a preferred embodiment, the emulsifiers used in the compositions of the invention are of natural origin. The term “of natural origin” designates any molecule derived from renewable resources, in particular extracted or secreted by plants, microorganisms or algae and capable of allowing, after physical, chemical or enzymatic modification, to be used in a cosmetic composition.
[0084] The surfactants used in the composition according to the invention are present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight. Coloring matter
[0085] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one coloring matter chosen from water-soluble or fat-soluble colorants, fillers having the effect of coloring and / or opacifying the composition and / or coloring the lips, such as pigments, pearlescent agents, lakes (water-soluble colorants adsorbed on an inert mineral support) and mixtures thereof. These coloring matters may optionally be surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent such as silanes, silicones, fatty acid soaps, C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphates, acrylate / dimethicone copolymers, mixed C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate / silicone copolymers, lecithins, carnauba wax, polyethylene, chitosan and optionally acylated amino acids such as lauroyl lysine, disodium stearoyl glutamate and aluminum acyl glutamate. The pigments may be mineral or organic, natural or synthetic.Examples of pigments include, but are not limited to, iron, titanium or zinc oxides, as well as composite pigments and goniochromatic, pearlescent, interference, photochromic or thermochromic pigments.
[0086] Advantageously, when it contains one or more pigments, the composition according to the invention also contains at least one dispersant such as butylene glycol cocoate or diisostearyl malate. Charges
[0087] The composition used according to the invention may also contain at least one filler other than the cyclodextrin described above. This term means any particle of any shape (in particular spherical or lamellar), mineral or organic, insoluble in the composition. Examples of fillers are talc, mica, silica, kaolin, boron nitride, starch, starch modified with octenylsuccinic anhydride, polyamides, silicone resins, silicone elastomer powders and acrylic polymer powders, in particular poly(methyl methacrylate) or styrene acrylate copolymer powders (Sunsphere Powders from Dow). The fillers may in particular consist of several layers of different chemical nature and / or physical form and in particular be in the form of lamellae coated with spherical fillers. They may be modified using different surface treatments.An example of a surface-treated filler is silica modified by an ethylene / methacrylate copolymer marketed in particular by the company KOBO under the trade names DSPCS 20N-I2, 3H-I2 and I2. Assets
[0088] The composition used according to the invention may also contain one or more hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents. Additional common cosmetic ingredients
[0089] The composition according to the invention may also comprise any usual cosmetic ingredient which may be chosen in particular from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, surfactants, sunscreens, vitamins, moisturizers, self-tanning compounds, anti-wrinkle active agents, emollients, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, anti-free radical agents, deodorant agents, sequestering agents, film-forming agents, and mixtures thereof.
[0090] In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one sunscreen. Uses of cyclodextrin according to the invention
[0091] According to a first embodiment, one of the objects of the present invention also relates to the use, in a cosmetic or dermatological composition, of at least one cyclodextrin, at least partially present in the form of solid particles dispersed in a physiologically acceptable medium, characterized in that the cyclodextrin particles have a volume average size d(4.3), measured by laser granulometry, less than or equal to 12 µm, and preferably less than or equal to 8, and a volume size distribution, measured by laser diffraction granulometry, whose characteristic diameters d(10), d(50) and d(90) are such that: a. the diameter d(10) is less than or equal to 2.5 µm, b. the diameter d(50) is less than or equal to 10.0 µm, and c. the diameter d(90) is less than or equal to 25.0 µm to improve the sensory properties of said composition, preferably to provide ease of spreading, and / or a soft, powdery, non-greasy feel, and / or prevent the formation of fluff.
[0092] In addition, this use allows a clear reduction in the squeaking sensation when applied, as well as a reduction, or even disappearance, of fluffing depending on the nature of the skin.
[0093] In particular, the cyclodextrin used in this use is as described above. Process for preparing a cosmetic composition according to the invention
[0094] A final object of the present invention consists of a process for preparing a cosmetic composition, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising the following steps: a) the provision of a physiologically acceptable medium, b) The dispersion, in said physiologically acceptable medium, of at least one cyclodextrin having a volume average size d(4.3), measured by laser granulometry, less than or equal to 12 µm, and preferably less than or equal to 8 and a volume size distribution, measured by laser diffraction granulometry, whose characteristic diameters d(10), d(50) and d(90) are such that: a. the diameter d(10) is less than or equal to 2.5 µm, b. the diameter d(50) is less than or equal to 10.0 µm, and c. the diameter d(90) is less than or equal to 25.0 µm.
[0095] According to a variant, the method according to the invention is characterized in that the cyclodextrin content in the physiologically acceptable medium is 5% greater than its solubility in said medium, preferably 10% greater than its solubility, more preferably 25% greater than its solubility, and more preferably 50% greater than its solubility. Examples Example 1: emulsion
[0096] An H / W emulsion produced according to the invention was compared with a so-called “reference” emulsion, produced outside the invention, having the following composition: [Table 1]
[0097] Table 1: Composition of the emulsion Component / INCI name % by mass Sunflower oil / Helianthus annuus seed oil 30 Beta-cyclodextrin / Cyclodextrin 2,5 Sorbitol (powder) 1 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 0,5 Demineralized water / Aqua 64,3 Xanthan gum / Xanthan gum 0,7 Conservative 1
[0098] The reference emulsion is obtained using a beta-cyclodextrin marketed under the name “Beauté by Roquette ®< CD102” by the applicant. The emulsion according to the invention is obtained using this same beta-cyclodextrin previously dry-ground to have a volume average size d(4.3) of less than 20 µm: the beta-cyclodextrin thus obtained is described as “ultra-fine”. The particle size characteristics of these two beta-cyclodextrins are presented in Table 2. [Table 2]
[0099] Table 2: particle size characteristics of beta-cyclodextrins Beta-cyclodextrin Beauté by Roquette ®< CD102 (reference) Beta-cyclodextrin according to the invention, called “ultra-fine” d(4.3) (µm) 94,83 11,43 d10 (µm) 21,81 2,378 d50 (µm) 85,81 9,716 d90 (µm) 182,2 22,85 Coefficient of variation (%) 64,7 % 72,3 %
[0100] The emulsion preparation protocol is as follows. A thickening agent, in this case xanthan gum, is dispersed in water at 40°C while stirring with a deflocculation paddle at 500 rpm. Separately, beta-cyclodextrin is mixed with sorbitol and polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate. This mixture is then added to the water containing the thickening agent, while stirring at 1000 rpm, to obtain an aqueous phase.
[0101] The amount of beta-cyclodextrin is set at 2.5% by mass of the composition for both emulsions.
[0102] Sunflower oil constitutes the oily phase, it is heated to 40°C.
[0103] The oily phase is then emulsified in the aqueous phase at 40°C with stirring at 3000 rpm for 20 minutes.
[0104] Allow to cool and at room temperature (20°C), finally add a phenoxyethanol-based preservative.
[0105] For each of the emulsions, physicochemical characteristics are measured, namely viscosity and droplet size, and sensory characteristics are measured, namely opacity, whiteness, gloss, fluidity, stringiness, slipperiness, freshness, whitening, spreading, oiliness, stickiness, softness, squeakiness, penetrating, powderiness and fluffiness.
[0106] Viscosity is measured using a Brookfield DV-II+Pro viscometer. A fixed-size spindle (SP2 to SP7 spindles used according to the viscosity levels in accordance with the device's instructions) is rotated at a speed of 20 revolutions per minute in contact with the produced sample. The resistance of the product to this rotational movement is recorded for one minute and converted into millipascal seconds. For each sample, the viscosity is measured three times and the arithmetic mean of the three values is taken.
[0107] There droplet size is observed with an optical microscope at x10 magnification. The microscope used is a LEICA DMLS.
[0108] THE sensory characteristics are evaluated by a panel of ten people who are experts in analyzing the texture of cosmetic products. The first three descriptors evaluated are visual characteristics of the product. The product is examined in the jar, under a lamp equipped with a 5500 K bulb. The descriptor fluid is evaluated when pressure is exerted on the product, between the thumb and index finger. If it has no hold, if it flows from the fingers and moves away from the pressure zone, it is fluid, conversely it is not fluid. When spreading the product, four other descriptors are evaluated. The examination of the product is done under the lamp, after having deposited 50 to 100 µL of the product studied on the hand, while it is spread in 10 rotations. The descriptor powderis rated between the 2nd and 5th rotation. Fingers glide well over the skin. The product is perceived as a powdery substance on the skin. The sprawl is assessed by examining the product after depositing 50 to 100 µL of the product on the hand, while spreading it in 10 rotations, under a lamp. The spreading is all the more important as there is little resistance to movement between the 5th and 10th rotation on the hand.
[0109] The last descriptors are evaluated after completing the 10 rotations. For the next four descriptors, the examination is done under the lamp, on the skin, 1 minute after spreading 50 to 100µl of the product. The soft descriptor is assessed by sliding the product over the skin, a dry and slippery touch is felt. The squeaky descriptor is assessed by sliding the thumb over the index finger, a brake is felt and a squeaky noise is heard. For the next two descriptors, the examination is done under the lamp, on the skin, 2 minutes after spreading 50 to 100 µL of the product. The penetrating descriptor of the product is assessed by sliding the product over the skin. A panel of assessors then evaluates the amount of product residue recovered. Lint is assessed by performing a mechanical rubbing action on the skin, the product causes the formation of fluff. [Table 3]
[0110] Table 3: Improved sensory perceptions compared to the reference emulsion Sensory perception Emulsion according to the invention, with ultra-fine beta-cyclodextrin, compared to the emulsion with Beauté by Roquette ®< CD102 Fluid Less fluid Powder More powdery Spreading Easier Soft Softer touch Squealing Much less squeaky Penetrating Faster penetration Linting Reduced or absent fluff
[0111] The criteria for improved sensory properties in the emulsion according to the invention are: fluid, powdery, spreading, greasy, soft, crunchy, penetrating, fluffiness. Example 2: Sunscreen
[0112] The sensory profile of a sunscreen formulation was compared depending on whether it was prepared with a beta-cyclodextrin with an average diameter of 200 µm (Beauté by Roquette ®< CD102 of example 1) or with a beta-cyclodextrin with an average volume size of 11.43 µm (ultra-fine beta-cyclodextrin of example 1), according to the procedure below.
[0113] We start by preparing phase A1 according to the composition in table 4: we disperse the Sunsphere powder in water and Cetiol C5, then we heat to 55°C while stirring at 2000 rpm with a rotor-stator for 15 minutes. [Table 4]
[0114] Table 4: Composition of phase A1 Phase Trade name Supplier INCI name %m in total A1 Demineralized water Cooper Aqua 36,44 EDETA BD AMI Chemistry Disodium EDTA 0,10 Sunsphere powder Dow (Univar) Styrene / acrylate copolymer 5,00 Cetiol C5 AMI Chemistry Coco-caprylate 1,00
[0115] Separately, phase A2 is prepared by weighing all the ingredients in a cup, then added to phase A1 with rotor-stator stirring at 2000 rpm for 15 min. Phase A1+A2 is kept at 70°C with stirring. [Table 5]
[0116] Table 5: Composition of phase A2 Phase Trade name Supplier INCI name %m in total A2 Sepinov WEO Seppic Hydroxymethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer 0,20 Microcare PHC Thor Glycerin & Chlorphenesin & Phenoxyethanol 1,00 Xanthan gum Interchemistry Xanthan gum 0,30 Glycerin codex Cooper Glycerin 3,00 Romol AFSK Saci cfpa Potassium cetyl phosphate 0,30
[0117] Phase B1 is then prepared by heating at 70°C with magnetic stirring for 10 minutes according to the composition in table 6. [Table 6]
[0118] Table 6: Composition of Phase B1 Phase Trade name Supplier INCI name %m in total B1 Cetiol C5 AMI Chemistry Coco-caprylate 2,00 Cocoate BG Gattefossé Butylene glycol cocoate 2,00 Parsol 1789 IES Ingredients Butyl MethoxyDibenzoylMethan 5,00 Parsol EHS IES Ingredients Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5,00 Parsol MCX IES Ingredients Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7,50 Parsol HMS IES Ingredients Homosalate 9,00 Solastay S1 Azelis Ethylhexyl methoxycrylene 3,00 Hallbrite BHB Azelis Butyl Octyl Salycilate 4,00 Tinogard TL AMI Chemistry Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol 1,00 Covanol Red ON 3780 Sensient Iron oxides (CI77491) & Octyldodecanol & Stearic acid & Magnesium hydroxide & Aluminum hydroxide & Sorbitan oleate 0,12 Covanol Yellow ON 1782 Sensient Iron oxides (CI77492) & Octyldodecanol & Stearic acid & Magnesium hydroxide & Aluminum hydroxide & Sorbitan oleate 0,53 High oleic sunflower oil Oléon Helianthus annuus seed oil 3,00
[0119] Keeping phase B1 at 70°C with stirring, phase B2, prepared separately and made up according to the composition in Table 7, is added and stirring is maintained for 10 minutes, after which phase B1+B2 is emulsified in phase A. [Table 7]
[0120] Table 7: Composition of Phase B2 Phase Trade name Supplier INCI name %m in total B2 Beauty by Roquette ®< CD102 Roquette Brothers Cyclodextrin 2,5 Plurol Gattefossé Polyglyceryl 3-diisostearate 0,5 Neosorb Roquette Brothers Sorbitol 1
[0121] To emulsify phase B1+B2 in phase A, pour all of phase B1+B2 into phase A at 55°C with rotor-stator stirring at 2500 rpm, then maintain for 5 minutes at 55°C, and for 10 minutes under a cold water bath. Reduce the speed to 1200 rpm and continue stirring until the emulsion is at room temperature under a cold water bath.
[0122] Then phase C is added, then colored with phase D.
[0123] This produces a tinted and scented cream. When applied to the skin, the cream feels soft and comfortable, but a squeaky effect is noted when spreading it. [Table 8]
[0124] Table 8: Composition of phases C and D Phase Trade name Supplier INCI name %m in total C Plouf RL G 113 23705 Robertet Scent 0,50 D Covarine white WN 9787 Sensient CI 77891 (and) Glycerin (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Sodium Citrate (and) Aqua 4,00 Covarine black WN 9798 Sensient CI 77499 & Glycerin & Xanthan gum & Sodium citrate & Aqua 0,01
[0125] A sunscreen is prepared according to the previous protocol by substituting the “Beauté by Roquette ®< CD102” with the “ultra-fine” beta-cyclodextrin from example 1. The cream is applied to the skin: it no longer fluffs, the cream is more comfortable. A slight squeaking effect persists at the end of the cream’s penetration, but it is significantly less present than with the reference formulation containing the “Beauté by Roquette ®< CD102” beta-cyclodextrin.
Claims
1. Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising at least one cyclodextrin, which is at least partially present in the form of solid particles dispersed in a physiologically acceptable medium, characterised in that the cyclodextrin particles have: - a volume average size d(4.3), measured by laser granulometry, of less than or equal to 12 µm, preferably less than or equal to 8 µm, and - a size distribution by volume, measured by laser diffraction granulometry, of which the characteristic diameters d(10), d(50) and d(90) are such that: a. the diameter d(10) is less than or equal to 2.5 µm, b. and the diameter d(50) is less than or equal to 10.0 µm, c. and the diameter d(90) is less than or equal to 25.0 µm, characterised in that the solid cyclodextrin particles have a size distribution by volume, measured by laser diffraction granulometry, having a coefficient of variation of less than or equal to 73%.
2. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to claim 1, characterised in that at least 5% by weight of cyclodextrin, relative to the total weight of cyclodextrin present in the composition, is in the form of solid particles, preferably at least 10% by weight, more preferably at least 15% by weight, more preferably at least 25% by weight, and even more preferably at least 50% by weight.
3. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the cyclodextrin content in the composition is 5% greater than its solubility in the physiologically acceptable medium of said composition, preferably 10% greater than its solubility in said medium, more preferably 15% greater than its solubility in said medium, very preferably 25% greater than its solubility in said medium, and more preferably 50% greater than its solubility in said medium.
4. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the cyclodextrin is a beta-cyclodextrin, preferably native.
5. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that it forms a skincare product, a haircare product, an oral-dental care product, a make-up product, or a hair removal product.
6. Use of at least one cyclodextrin, at least partially present in the form of solid particles dispersed in a physiologically acceptable medium, in a cosmetic or dermatological composition, characterised in that the cyclodextrin particles have: - a volume average size d(4.3), measured by laser granulometry, of less than or equal to 12 µm, preferably less than or equal to 8, and - a size distribution by volume, measured by laser diffraction granulometry, of which the characteristic diameters d(10), d(50) and d(90) are such that: a. the diameter d(10) is less than or equal to 2.5 µm, b. and the diameter d(50) is less than or equal to 10.0 µm, c. and the diameter d(90) is less than or equal to 25.0 µm, characterised in that the solid cyclodextrin particles have a size distribution by volume, measured by laser diffraction granulometry, having a coefficient of variation of less than or equal to 73%, to improve the sensory properties of said composition, preferably to impart ease of spreading, and / or a soft, powdery, non-greasy feel, and / or prevent pilling.
7. Use according to claim 6, characterised in that the cyclodextrin is a native beta-cyclodextrin.
8. Use according to one of claims 6 or 7, characterised in that the cosmetic or dermatological compositions are selected from a skincare product, a haircare product, an oral-dental care product, a make-up product, or a hair removal product.
9. Use according to claim 8, characterised in that the cosmetic compositions are in the form of gels, emulsions, suspensions, lotions, serums, aerosols, foams, pastes, powders or sticks, and preferably emulsions.
10. Method for preparing a cosmetic or dermatological composition, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising the following steps: a. providing a physiologically acceptable medium, b. dispersing, in said physiologically acceptable medium, at least one cyclodextrin having a volume average size d(4.3), measured by laser granulometry, of less than or equal to 12 µm, preferably less than or equal to 8 and a volume size distribution, measured by laser diffraction particle size, of which the characteristic diameters d(10), d(50) and d(90) are such that: a. the diameter d(10) is less than or equal to 2.5 µm, b. and the diameter d(50) is less than or equal to 10.0 µm, c. and the diameter d(90) is less than or equal to 25.0 µm, characterised in that the solid cyclodextrin particles have a size distribution by volume, measured by laser diffraction granulometry, having a coefficient of variation of less than or equal to 73%.
11. Method according to the preceding claim, characterised in that the cyclodextrin content in the medium is 5% greater than its solubility in said physiologically acceptable medium, preferably 10% greater than its solubility, more preferably 25% greater than its solubility, and more preferably 50% greater than its solubility.