COSMETIC CARRIER CONTAINING AN ALKAN WITH C8-C10 AND AN ALKAN WITH C>=11

Description

[0001] The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetic care of the skin and appendages.

[0002] More specifically, the invention relates to a cosmetic excipient, as well as a cosmetic formulation.

[0003] A number of definitions need to be given.

[0004] An "alkane" is a saturated hydrocarbon consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms linked together by simple covalent bonds, the general formula of which is C n H 2n+2 .

[0005] A "linear alkane" is an alkane in which each carbon atom is linked to a maximum of two carbon atoms.

[0006] A "branched alkane" is an alkane in which some carbon atoms are linked to three or even four carbon atoms.

[0007] A Cx alkane is an alkane consisting of x carbon atoms, and the alkane can be linear or branched. For example, n-decane is a C10 alkane.

[0008] A C ≤ x alkane is an alkane with a carbon number of x or less than x. For example, a C ≤ 2 alkane can be either C1 or C2.

[0009] A C ≥ x alkane is an alkane consisting of a carbon number of x or more. For example, a C ≥ 2 alkane can be any alkane, excluding methane (C1).

[0010] A Cx-Cy alkane is an alkane consisting of x to y carbon atoms, and the alkane can be linear or branched. For example, C1-C2 alkanes are methane and ethane.

[0011] A "methylalkane" is a branched alkane comprising at least one branch being a methyl group. For example, 4-methylnonane, or 2,3-dimethyloctane, are methylalkanes, and more precisely C10 methylalkanes. For example, methylundecanes are C12 methylalkanes. For example, dimethyloctanes are C12 methylalkanes. Methylheptadecanes are C18 alkanes. These methylalkanes are preferably obtained by dehydration of a Guerbet alcohol. When asymmetric carbons are present, branched alkanes are understood to mean racemic mixtures and separate isomers.

[0012] A "deodorized alkane" is an alkane that has undergone a deodorization operation, said deodorization making it possible to eliminate impurities responsible for an unpleasant odor for the user. These impurities may in particular be residues of Guerbet alcohols, which are the most commonly used starting products. These very low levels are obtained thanks to a very high dehydration efficiency. A deodorized alkane according to the invention is an alkane that comprises less than 0.01% of the corresponding Guerbet alcohol residue.

[0013] A deodorized alkane is also free of sulfur compounds such as thiols, for example 1-nonanethiol; by free is meant a content of less than 0.01%.

[0014] The flash point is the flash point measured according to ASTM D93. The unit of the flash point measured according to ASTM D93 is degrees Celsius (°C). It can also be an average of values, each of which is obtained by means of a measurement according to ASTM D93.

[0015] The "percentage of evaporation at t=X" is the percentage of compound (or mixture of compounds) evaporated at a given time (X), the evaporation conditions being as follows: LABOMODERNE THERMOBALANCE KERN DBS 60-3 desiccator, 20°C, under controlled atmosphere. For example, if the percentage of evaporation is at least 60% after 3 hours, this means that at least 60% of the compound (or mixture of compounds) has evaporated after 3 hours.

[0016] The term "mass percentage" refers to the ratio of the mass of a first compound to the total mass of a mixture of compounds (including the first compound) or composition, reduced to a percentage. For example, if 10 grams of a compound are present in a mixture z having a total mass of 100 grams, then the mass percentage of y in z is 10%.

[0017] We call "weight percentage" the ratio of the weight of a constituent to the total weight of the composition, brought back to 100.

[0018] In the context of this application, the term "approximately" preceding a numerical value means that the value can be modified by + / - 10%. In the particular case of a numerical value being an interval limit, the term "approximately" means that the lower limit can be reduced by 10% or the upper limit can be increased by 10%. It is also possible to delete the term "approximately" preceding a numerical value.

[0019] Since the introduction of silicones in cosmetics in the 1950s, their use has expanded considerably in all areas of cosmetics, from skin care products to makeup and hair products. This widespread use is explained by the specific physicochemical characteristics of silicones. There are five main categories of silicones: volatile silicone oils, non-volatile silicone oils, modified silicone oils, silicone waxes, and silicone gums.

[0020] Volatile silicone oils are often composed of short-chain cyclic silicones of the general formula [Si-(CH 3 ) 2 -O] n with n being between 3 and 7 (inclusive). They are generally called cyclomethicones, regardless of the number of units. The most common cyclomethicones are cyclotetrasiloxane (D4) (C 8 H 24 O 4 Si 4 , CAS 556-67-2), cyclopentasiloxane (D5) (C 10 H 30 O 5 Si 5 , CAS 541-02-6) and cyclohexasiloxane (D6) (C 12 H 36 O 6 Si 6 , CAS 540-97-6).

[0021] Cyclomethicones have, until very recently, been considered harmless skin emollients and solvents (see for example International Journal of Toxicology, Volume 10, No. 1, pp. 9-19 1991 ) ; it is only relatively recently that their potential harmful effects on the environment, and even on human health, have been highlighted.

[0022] Research was therefore carried out to identify compounds likely to offer a satisfactory alternative, these compounds having to have similar volatility characteristics and similar behavior in a formulation, in particular in terms of viscosity, sensory properties (ability to spread on the skin and soft, "dry" and non-greasy feel of the film obtained).

[0023] Sensory properties are tested by panels, called sensory panels, see for example Design of cosmetic products: formulation, Anne-Marie PENSE-LHERITIER, page 95, LAVOISIER.

[0024] For example, application US20050079986 in the name of COGNIS proposed an oily composition containing a mixture of a linear or branched dialkyl carbonate with an alkane, preferably branched and saturated, containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms.

[0025] It has also been suggested in application US20040241200 in the name of INOLEX to use a combination of isoparaffin such as isododecane with a neopentyl glycol polyester, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate. This mixture is notably marketed by the company INOLEX under the trade name LexFeel ®< D4 and D5. The company PRESPERSE LLC also offers, under the trade name SiClone ®< SR-5, a mixture of C 13 -C 16 , C 12 -C 14 isoparaffins with C 13 -C 15 alkanes.

[0026] Furthermore, the use of a caprylyl isostearate resulting from the esterification of 2-octanol by a mixture of C 18 fatty acid isomers was proposed in patent US6126951 in the name of BERNEL, without however achieving the desired volatility.

[0027] Finally, in application WO2010115973 in the name of the Applicant, the use of a mixture of alkanes was proposed. FR 2 952 528 A1 (OREAL [FR]) proposes a mixture of alkanes comprising at least n-dodecane and n-tetradecane. Isodecane is cited in a long list of possible additives.

[0028] However, there remains a need for a cosmetic excipient with physicochemical and sensory characteristics even closer to those of cyclomethicones and capable of replacing them, particularly as an excipient to be included in cosmetic formulations.

[0029] Surprisingly, it was demonstrated by the Applicant that an ideal cosmetic excipient with regard to the objectives identified previously could be obtained.

[0030] Surprisingly, it has been shown that within a mixture of alkanes, C8-C10 alkanes (and more particularly C10) have a particular and unpredictable influence on the volatility properties of the alkane mixture (notably assessed by measuring evaporation and flash point).

[0031] For example, an alkane mixture comprising 30% n-decane (C10, flash point 46°C), 40% n-dodecane (C12, flash point 71°C) and 30% n-tetradecane (C14, flash point 115°C) has a flash point of 66°C, which was not predictable.

[0032] The cosmetic excipient according to the invention comprises a mixture of alkanes, said mixture having a flash point below 69°C, preferably between 60 and 69°C, preferably between 60 and 67°C, preferably between 62 and 65°C.

[0033] It was also demonstrated that the use of a cosmetic excipient consisting solely of branched alkanes made it possible to obtain more stable emulsions than emulsions obtained with linear alkanes.

[0034] It has also been demonstrated that the inclusion of a cosmetic excipient according to the invention in cosmetic formulations has the effect of providing said cosmetic formulation with remarkable cosmetic qualities in addition to excellent stability of the emulsions such as better dispersibility, namely the possibility of obtaining regular dispersions, of powders for example pigments and better spreading of the compositions on the skin, these properties being particularly important for makeup products such as foundations and sun products.

[0035] The invention relates to a cosmetic excipient comprising a mixture of alkanes, said mixture of alkanes comprising at least one C8-C10 alkane, and at least one C ≥ 11 alkane, according to claim 1.

[0036] In one embodiment, said mixture of alkanes is a mixture of alkanes having an even number of atoms.

[0037] The said mixture of alkanes is free of alkanes with an odd carbon number.

[0038] This parity is due to the natural origin of the alcohols which are used as starting products whether for the synthesis of Guerbet alcohols or which are dehydrated to obtain the said alkanes, in fact natural alcohols contain an even number of carbon atoms.

[0039] The cosmetic excipient according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one C8-C10 alkane is at least one C10 alkane.

[0040] In one embodiment, the cosmetic excipient according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one C8-C10 alkane is at least one linear or branched C10 alkane.

[0041] In one embodiment, the cosmetic excipient according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one C8-C10 alkane is at least one linear C10 alkane.

[0042] In one embodiment, the cosmetic excipient according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one C8-C10 alkane is at least one branched C10 alkane.

[0043] In one embodiment, the cosmetic excipient according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one C8-C10 alkane is at least one branched C10 alkane chosen from the group consisting of methylnonanes, such as for example 2-methylnonane (CAS 871-83-0), ethyloctanes, such as for example 3-ethyloctane (CAS 5881-17-4), dimethyloctanes, such as for example 2,2-dimethyloctane (CAS 15869-87-1), propylheptanes, such as for example 4-propylheptane (CAS 3178-29-8), ethylmethylheptanes, such as for example 3-ethyl-2-methylheptane (CAS 14676-29-0), trimethylheptanes, such as for example 2,2,3-trimethylheptane (CAS 52896-92-1), diethylhexanes, such as 3,3-diethylhexane (CAS 17302-02-2), tetramethylhexanes, such as 2,2,3,3-tetramethylhexane (CAS 13475-81-5), ethyltrimethylpentanes, such as 3-ethyl-2,2,3-trimethylpentane (CAS 52897-17-3), and mixtures thereof.

[0044] In one embodiment, the cosmetic excipient according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one C8-C10 alkane is at least one C10 methyl alkane.

[0045] In one embodiment, the cosmetic excipient according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one C8-C10 alkane is chosen from the group consisting of 4-methylnonane (C10H22, CAS 17301-94-9), 2-methylnonane (C10H22, CAS 871-83-0), n-decane (C10H22, CAS 124-18-5), and mixtures thereof.

[0046] In one embodiment, the cosmetic excipient according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one C8-C10 alkane is at least 4-methylnonane.

[0047] In one embodiment, the cosmetic excipient according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one C8-C10 alkane is at least 2-methylnonane.

[0048] In one embodiment, the cosmetic excipient according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one C8-C10 alkane is at least n-decane. N-decane is particularly preferred.

[0049] The cosmetic excipient according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one C8-C10 alkane is present in a mass percentage of between 10 and 30% (10% ≤ mass percentage ≤ 30%), relative to the total mass of said mixture of alkanes.

[0050] In one embodiment, the cosmetic excipient according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one C8-C10 alkane is present in a mass percentage of between approximately 15 and approximately 30% (15% ≤ mass percentage ≤ 30%), relative to the total mass of said mixture of alkanes.

[0051] In one embodiment, the cosmetic excipient according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one C ≥ 11 alkane is at least one linear C12 alkane.

[0052] In one embodiment, the cosmetic excipient according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one C ≥ 11 alkane is at least n-dodecane.

[0053] The invention also relates to a cosmetic excipient comprising a mixture of alkanes as previously defined, characterized in that said at least one C ≥ 11 alkane is present in a mass percentage of between approximately 50 and approximately 99% (50% ≤ mass percentage ≤ 99%), relative to the total mass of said mixture of alkanes.

[0054] The invention also relates to a cosmetic excipient comprising a mixture of alkanes as previously defined, characterized in that said at least one C ≥ 11 alkane is present in a mass percentage of between approximately 60 and approximately 99% (50% ≤ mass percentage ≤ 99%), relative to the total mass of said mixture of alkanes. In one embodiment, the cosmetic excipient according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one C ≥ 11 alkane is present in a mass percentage of between approximately 70 and approximately 99% (70% ≤ mass percentage ≤ 99%), relative to the total mass of said mixture of alkanes.

[0055] In one embodiment, the cosmetic excipient according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one C ≥ 11 alkane is present in a mass percentage of between approximately 80 and approximately 99% (70% ≤ mass percentage ≤ 99%), relative to the total mass of said mixture of alkanes.

[0056] In one embodiment, the cosmetic excipient according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one C ≥ 11 alkane is present in a mass percentage of between approximately 70 and approximately 95% (70% ≤ mass percentage ≤ 95%), relative to the total mass of said mixture of alkanes.

[0057] In one embodiment, the cosmetic excipient according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one C ≥ 11 alkane is present in a mass percentage of between approximately 70 and approximately 90% (70% ≤ mass percentage ≤ 90%), relative to the total mass of said mixture of alkanes.

[0058] In one embodiment, the cosmetic excipient according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one C ≥ 11 alkane is present in a mass percentage of between approximately 70 and approximately 85% (70% ≤ mass percentage ≤ 85%), relative to the total mass of said mixture of alkanes.

[0059] The cosmetic excipient according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one C8-C10 alkane is a C10 alkane, and the at least one C ≥ 11 alkane is a linear C12 alkane.

[0060] The invention also relates to a cosmetic excipient comprising a mixture of alkanes as previously defined, characterized in that said at least one C8-C10 alkane is at least n-decane present in said excipient at a mass percentage of between approximately 15 and approximately 25% (15% ≤ mass percentage ≤ 25%) relative to the total mass of said alkane mixture, and the at least one C ≥ 11 alkane is a mixture of n-dodecane present in said excipient at a mass percentage of between approximately 20 and approximately 60% (20% ≤ mass percentage ≤ 60%) relative to the total mass of said mixture of alkane and n-tetradecane present in said excipient at a mass percentage of between approximately 15 and approximately 45% (15% ≤ mass percentage ≤ 45%) relative to the total mass of said mixture of alkane.

[0061] The invention also relates to a cosmetic excipient comprising a mixture of alkanes as previously defined, characterized in that said at least one C8-C10 alkane is at least n-decane present in said excipient at a mass percentage of approximately 30% relative to the total mass of said alkane mixture, and the at least one C ≥ 11 alkane is a mixture of n-dodecane present in said excipient at a mass percentage of approximately 40% relative to the total mass of said alkane mixture and n-tetradecane present in said excipient at a mass percentage of approximately 30% relative to the total mass of said alkane mixture.

[0062] The invention also relates to a cosmetic excipient comprising a mixture of alkanes as previously defined, characterized in that said at least one C8-C10 alkane is at least n-decane present in said excipient at a mass percentage of approximately 20% relative to the total mass of said alkane mixture, and the at least one C ≥ 11 alkane is a mixture of n-dodecane present in said excipient at a mass percentage of approximately 74% relative to the total mass of said alkane mixture and n-tetradecane present in said excipient at a mass percentage of approximately 6% relative to the total mass of said alkane mixture.

[0063] In one embodiment, said alkane mixture comprises: 30% n-decane; 40% n-dodecane; and 30% n-tetradecane.

[0064] In one embodiment, said alkane mixture comprises: 30% n-decane; 40% n-dodecane; and 30% n-tetradecane.

[0065] In one embodiment, said alkane mixture comprises: 10% n-decane; 85% n-dodecane; and 5% n-tetradecane.

[0066] In one embodiment, said alkane mixture comprises: 15% n-decane; 80% n-dodecane; and 5% n-tetradecane.

[0067] In one embodiment, said alkane mixture comprises: 20% n-decane; 75.6% n-dodecane; and 4.4% n-tetradecane.

[0068] In one embodiment, said alkane mixture comprises: 20% n-decane; 74% n-dodecane; and 6% n-tetradecane.

[0069] In one embodiment, said alkane mixture comprises: 20% n-decane; 70% n-dodecane; and 10% n-tetradecane.

[0070] In one embodiment, said alkane mixture comprises: 20% n-decane; 75% n-dodecane; and 5% n-tetradecane.

[0071] The invention also relates to a cosmetic excipient comprising a mixture of alkanes as previously defined, characterized in that it also contains a non-volatile silicone such as, for example, polysilicone 11.

[0072] The invention also relates to a cosmetic excipient comprising a mixture of alkanes as previously defined, said excipient further comprising polysilicone 11, characterized in that said mixture of alkanes is present in a mass percentage of between approximately 65 and approximately 95% (65% ≤ mass percentage ≤ 95%) relative to the total mass of said excipient, and said polysilicone 11 is present in a mass percentage of between approximately 5 and approximately 35% (5% ≤ mass percentage ≤ 35%) relative to the total mass of said excipient.

[0073] The invention also relates to a cosmetic excipient comprising a mixture of alkanes as previously defined, said excipient further comprising polysilicone 11, characterized in that said mixture of alkanes is present in a mass percentage of between approximately 75 and approximately 85% (75% ≤ mass percentage ≤ 85%) relative to the total mass of said excipient, and said polysilicone 11 is present in a mass percentage of between approximately 15 and approximately 25% (15% ≤ mass percentage ≤ 25%) relative to the total mass of said excipient.

[0074] The invention also relates to a cosmetic excipient comprising a mixture of alkanes as previously defined, said excipient further comprising polysilicone 11, characterized in that said mixture of alkanes is present in a mass percentage of between approximately 80 and approximately 82% (80% ≤ mass percentage ≤ 82%) relative to the total mass of said excipient, and said polysilicone 11 is present in a mass percentage of between approximately 18 and approximately 20% (18% ≤ mass percentage ≤ 20%) relative to the total mass of said excipient.

[0075] The invention also relates to a cosmetic excipient comprising a mixture of alkanes as previously defined, characterized in that said alkane mixture has a flash point less than or equal to 69°C (≤ 69°C).

[0076] The invention also relates to a cosmetic excipient comprising a mixture of alkanes as previously defined, characterized in that said alkane mixture has a flash point between 60 and 69°C (60°C ≤ flash point ≤ 69°C).

[0077] The invention also relates to a cosmetic excipient comprising a mixture of alkanes as previously defined, characterized in that said alkane mixture has a flash point of between 60 and 67°C (60°C ≤ flash point ≤ 67°C).

[0078] The invention also relates to a cosmetic excipient comprising a mixture of alkanes as previously defined, characterized in that said alkane mixture has a flash point of between 62 and 65°C (62°C ≤ flash point ≤ 65°C).

[0079] The invention also relates to a cosmetic excipient comprising a mixture of alkanes as previously defined, characterized in that the percentage of evaporation at t=10 hours is between 10 and 30% (10% ≤ percentage of evaporation at t=10 h ≤ 30%).

[0080] The invention also relates to a cosmetic excipient comprising a mixture of alkanes as previously defined, characterized in that the percentage of evaporation at t=10 hours is between 12 and 20% (12% ≤ percentage of evaporation at t=10 h ≤ 20%).

[0081] Cosmetic excipient according to the invention as previously defined, characterized in that it is entirely obtained from raw materials of plant, bacterial or animal origin, preferably of plant origin.

[0082] In one embodiment, the alkanes according to the invention are obtained by dehydration of the corresponding Guerbet alcohol, followed by hydrogenation of the alkene obtained.

[0083] For example, 5-methylundecane will be obtained by dehydration of 2-butyloctanol-1 according to the reaction scheme below:

[0084] Then hydrogenation of the alkene obtained according to the reaction scheme below:

[0085] Guerbet alcohol will be obtained either by a classic Guerbet process by condensation of two alcohols, or by a synthesis as described in patent application US2012 / 0220806.

[0086] The following uses are disclosed but not claimed:

[0087] Use of a cosmetic excipient according to the invention as previously defined, in the preparation of a cosmetic formulation of the mascara type

[0088] Use of a cosmetic excipient according to the invention as previously defined, in the preparation of a two-phase cosmetic makeup remover formulation.

[0089] Use of a cosmetic excipient according to the invention as previously defined, in the preparation of a cosmetic formulation for coloring the lips.

[0090] Use of a cosmetic excipient according to the invention as previously defined, in the preparation of a rinse-out or leave-in hair type cosmetic formulation.

[0091] Use of a cosmetic excipient according to the invention as previously defined, in the preparation of a cosmetic formulation being an emulsion.

[0092] Use of a cosmetic excipient according to the invention as previously defined, in the preparation of an oily phase.

[0093] Use of a cosmetic excipient according to the invention as previously defined, in the preparation of an oily phase intended for an emulsion.

[0094] Use of a cosmetic excipient according to the invention as previously defined, as a substitute for at least one volatile silicone oil.

[0095] Use of a cosmetic excipient according to the invention as previously defined, as a substitute for at least one volatile silicone oil chosen from the group comprising cyclotetrasiloxane (D4) (C8H24O4Si4, CAS 556-67-2), cyclopentasiloxane (D5) (C10H30O5Si5, CAS 541-02-6), cyclohexasiloxane (D6) (C12H36O6Si6, CAS 540-97-6), and mixtures thereof.

[0096] Use of a cosmetic excipient according to the invention as previously defined, as a substitute for at least one volatile silicone oil being cyclotetrasiloxane (D4).

[0097] Use of a cosmetic excipient according to the invention as previously defined, as a substitute for at least one volatile silicone oil being cyclopentasiloxane (D5).

[0098] Use of a cosmetic excipient according to the invention as previously defined, as a substitute for at least one volatile silicone oil being cyclohexasiloxane (D6).

[0099] Use of a cosmetic excipient according to the invention as previously defined, as a substitute for at least one volatile silicone oil chosen from the group comprising cyclotetrasiloxane (D4) (C8H24O4Si4, CAS 556-67-2), cyclopentasiloxane (D5) (C10H30O5Si5, CAS 541-02-6), cyclohexasiloxane (D6) (C12H36O6Si6, CAS 540-97-6), and mixtures thereof, characterized in that said substitution is carried out while retaining the same mass quantity. This means that a certain mass of silicone oil is replaced by the same mass of cosmetic excipient according to the invention.

[0100] Use of a cosmetic excipient according to the invention as previously defined, as a substitute for at least one volatile silicone oil being cyclotetrasiloxane (D4), characterized in that said substitution is carried out while retaining the same mass quantity.

[0101] Use of a cosmetic excipient according to the invention as previously defined, as a substitute for at least one volatile silicone oil being cyclopentasiloxane (D5), characterized in that said substitution is carried out while retaining the same mass quantity.

[0102] Use of a cosmetic excipient according to the invention as previously defined, as a substitute for at least one volatile silicone oil being cyclohexasiloxane (D6), characterized in that said substitution is carried out while retaining the same mass quantity.

[0103] Cosmetic formulation characterized in that it comprises, as cosmetic excipient, a cosmetic excipient according to the invention as previously defined.

[0104] The invention also relates to a cosmetic formulation characterized in that it comprises a mixture of alkanes, said mixture of alkanes having a flash point less than or equal to 69°C (≤ 69°C).

[0105] Cosmetic formulation according to the invention as previously defined, characterized in that it is chosen from the group consisting of anhydrous cosmetic formulations, cosmetic formulations of the water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion type, cosmetic formulations of the oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion type, and cosmetic formulations in the form of multiple emulsions (in particular W / O, O / W or O / W / O), or even cosmetic formulations being dispersions.

[0106] Cosmetic formulation according to the invention as previously defined, characterized in that it further comprises at least one of the constituents chosen from the group comprising fatty phase gelling agents or structuring agents, in particular waxes, gums, olefinic copolymers or silicone elastomers, binders, in particular fatty acid soaps, aqueous phase gelling agents or thickeners such as acrylic or sulfonic homo- or copolymers, in particular based on AMPS, film-forming agents, such as PVP derivatives, acrylic latexes or silicone resins, dispersants such as fatty acid esters, W / O, O / W or W / Si emulsifying agents, active ingredients, organic or inorganic photoprotective agents or UV filters, fillers, optionally hydrophobic and / or lipophobic pigments, organic or inorganic powders of spherical and / or lamellar structure (such as silica, talc, mica...), fibers of natural or synthetic origin, dyes, sequestrants, pH adjusters, perfumes, preservatives, and their mixtures.

[0107] Cosmetic formulation according to the invention as previously defined, characterized in that it is free from cyclic silicones (cyclomethicones), in particular cyclotetrasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane derivatives.

[0108] Cosmetic formulation according to the invention as previously defined, characterized in that it is in a form chosen from the group comprising fluids, gels, creams, pastes, mousses, pressed or cast compact products and solid products, for example in stick form.

[0109] Cosmetic formulation according to the invention as previously defined, characterized in that it is used as a facial and / or body care or hygiene formulation, moisturizing formulation, anti-aging formulation (anti-wrinkle and / or firming), depigmenting formulation, pro-pigmenting formulation, self-tanning formulation, slimming formulation, deodorant formulation, antiperspirant formulation, UV protection formulation, cleansing formulation, makeup remover formulation, biphasic makeup remover formulation, bath formulation, hair formulation (in particular a shampoo, a conditioner, a styling product, in particular a hair straightener), hair coloring formulation, makeup formulation (in particular a foundation, a lipstick, a lip gloss, a formulation for coloring the lips, a blusher or eyeshadow, a mascara, an eyeliner or even a nail polish).

[0110] Cosmetic formulation according to the invention as previously defined, characterized in that at least said at least one C ≥ 11 alkane is branched, and in that said cosmetic formulation is chosen from the group of cosmetic formulations of water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion type, cosmetic formulations of oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion type, and cosmetic formulations in the form of multiple emulsions (in particular W / O, O / W or O / W / O).

[0111] Cosmetic formulation according to the invention as previously defined, characterized in that said at least one C ≥ 11 alkane is at least one branched C12, and in that said cosmetic formulation is chosen from the group of cosmetic formulations of water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion type, cosmetic formulations of oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion type, and cosmetic formulations in the form of multiple emulsions (in particular W / O, O / W or O / W / O).

[0112] Cosmetic formulation according to the invention as previously defined, characterized in that said at least one C ≥ 11 alkane is at least one branched C14, and in that said cosmetic formulation is chosen from the group of cosmetic formulations of water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion type, cosmetic formulations of oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion type, and cosmetic formulations in the form of multiple emulsions (in particular W / O, O / W or O / W / O).

[0113] Cosmetic formulation according to the invention as previously defined, characterized in that said at least one C ≥ 11 alkane is at least a mixture of branched C12 and branched C14, and in that said cosmetic formulation is chosen from the group of cosmetic formulations of water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion type, cosmetic formulations of oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion type, and cosmetic formulations in the form of multiple emulsions (in particular W / O, O / W or O / W / O). EXAMPLES Part A - examples of cosmetic compositions Example A1: emulsions / spray milks outside the invention

[0114] The following formulations according to the invention are prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art, such as, for example, the techniques described in Conception des cosmétiques, La formulation, Anne Marie Pensé-Lhéritier, July 2014, Lavoisier: Formulation 1 (emulsion / spray milk) Phase Trade name INCI Mass percentage (%) A Water Aqua Qsp 100 B Isolan PDI (EVONIK) Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate 2,5 Pongamia Butter 80 Plus (BIOSYNTHIS) Pongamina glabra seed oil (and) C18-21 alkane 10 UV Cut TiO2-60-VL (GRANT INDUSTRIES INC.) Titanium dioxide (and) Coconut Alkanes (and) Stearic acid (and) Polyhdroxystearic acid (and) Alumina (and) Coco-caprylate / caprate 20 Mixture of n-decane (30%) and n-tetradecane (70%) Tetradecane (and) Decane 25 C MinaSolve Green C (MINASOLVE) Pentylene Glycol (and) Glyceryl Caprylate / Caprate 2 Formulation 2 (emulsion / spray milk) Phase Trade name INCI Mass percentage (%) A Water Aqua Qsp 100 B Isolan PDI (EVONIK) Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate 2,5 Pongamia Butter 80 Plus (BIOSYNTHIS) Pongamina glabra seed oil (and) C18-21 alkane 10 UV Cut TiO2-60-VL (GRANT INDUSTRIES INC.) Titanium dioxide (and) Coconut Alkanes (and) Stearic acid (and) Polyhdroxystearic acid (and) Alumina (and) Coco-caprylate / caprate 20 Mélange de n-décane (30%) et d'isohexadecane (70%) Isohexadecane (and) Decane 25 C MinaSolve Green C (MINASOLVE) Pentylene Glycol (and) Glyceryl Caprylate / Caprate 2

[0115] Formulations 1 and 2 are prepared as follows: heating of phases A and B (60°C); emulsification of phase A with phase B (stirring); addition of phase C while continuing stirring.

[0116] Stability is measured by visual analysis. A sample of each emulsion is placed in a transparent container and observed with the naked eye at regular intervals, as recommended in the technical report TR 13097: Guidelines for the characterization of dispersion stability.

[0117] Formulation 2 is very stable (no phase shift after three weeks), whereas formulation 1 is phase shifted after one day. The particular interest of the inclusion of branched C ≥ 11 alkanes is therefore highlighted, in the context of the use of a cosmetic excipient according to the invention in an emulsion-type formulation. Example A2: mascara outside the invention

[0118] The following formulations according to the invention are prepared: Formulation 3 (émulsion / mascara) Phase Nom commercial INCI Pourcentage massique (%) A Eau Aqua 18,00 NaCl Sodium Chloride 0,70 B Natural Beewax Cera Alba 6,00 Sunflower Wax Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax 4,00 Mélange de n-décane (50%) et d'isohexadecane (50%) Decane (and) Isohexadecane Qsp 100,00 Xiameter ™< RSN-0749 Resin (DOW CORNING) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Trimethylsiloxysilicate 5,00 Nikkomulese WO (NIKKOL) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG-10 Dimethicone (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite 16,00 C SA C335000-10 (MIYOSHI GROUP) CI 77499, Dimethicone 20,00 Micropearl M305 (SEPPIC) Methylmethacrylate crosspolymer 3,00 Methylmethacrylate crosspolymer 3,00 Formulation 4 (émulsion / mascara) Phase Nom commercial INCI Pourcentage massique (%) A Eau Aqua 18,00 NaCl Sodium Chloride 0,70 B Natural Beewax Cera Alba 6,00 Sunflower Wax Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax 4,00 Mixture of n-decane (50%) and 5-methylundecane (50%) Decane (and) Isohexadecane Qsp 100.00 Xiameter™< RSN-0749 Resin (DOW CORNING) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Trimethylslloxysilicate 5,00 Nikkomulese WO (NIKKOL) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG-10 Dimethicone (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite 16,00 C SA C335000-10 (MIYOSHI GROUP) CI 77499, Dimethicone 20,00 Micropearl M305 (SEPPIC) Methylmethacrylate crosspolymer 3.00 Methylmethacrylate crosspolymer 3,00

[0119] Formulations 3 and 4 are prepared as follows: preparation of Phase A and heating (75°C); preparation of Phase B and heating (85°C); mixing of Phases A and B; addition of Phase C to Phase B with vigorous stirring; bringing the mixture to 80°C, and addition of Phase A to Phases B+C; mixing for 15 minutes; cooling to 25°C. Example A3: formulation according to the invention (biphasic make-up remover formulation)

[0120] The following formulation according to the invention is prepared: Formulation 5 (biphasic makeup remover formulation) Phase Trade name INCI Mass percentage (%) A (oil phase) Mixture of n-decane (30%), n-dodecane (40%) and n-tetradecane (30%) Decane (and) 99,60 Dodecanes (and) Tetradecane 0.5% CI 60725 solution in SOUALANE Squalane (and) CI 60725 0,20 0.5% CI 61565 solution in SQUALANE Squalane (and) CI 61565 0,20 B (aqueous phase) Water Aqua 85,70 K2HPO4 Dipotassium Phosphate 0,77 Citric acid Citric Acid 0,48 Glycerin Glycerin 5,00 Sodium chloride Sodium Chloride 0,05 Hexylene glycol Hexylene Glycol 2,00 1,3-propanediol propanediol 5,00 0.5% aqueous solution CI 42090 Aqua (and) CI 42090 1,00

[0121] It should be noted that for this formulation 5, the mass percentages are given in relation to the total mass of the phase concerned.

[0122] In said formulation 5, the proportions of aqueous phase / oil phase are 50 / 50. Example A4: formulation for lip coloring, outside the invention.

[0123] The following formulation according to the invention is prepared: Formulation 6 (lip coloring formulation) Phase Trade name INCI Mass percentage (%) A ViscoplastGreen 3000 (BIOSYNTHIS) Dilinoleicacid / Propanediolcopolymer QSP 100.00 VegelightSilk and Polypropylsilsesquioxane Decane (and) Tetradecane (and) Polypropylsilsesquioxane 6,00 Biosynth DIM-18 Diisostearylmalate 5,00 Argan oil Argania spinosa (Argan) seedoil 3,00 Jojoba Oil Simmondsia chinensis oil 3,00 Tinogard TT Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butylhydroxyhydrocinnamate 0,05 DC Red 7 ground at 1% in Biosynth DIM-18 Diisostearylmalate (and) CI15850 25,00 Example A5: formulation according to the invention (long-lasting lip gloss)

[0124] Formulation 7 (long-lasting lip gloss) Phase Trade name INCI Mass percentage (%) Candelilla Wax Candelilla wax 6,16 Sunflower Oil Helianthus annuus seed oil 5,00 Sweet Almond Oil Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil 4,00 Vegelight Silk Coconut Alkanes 50,00 21% Decane 74% Dodecane 5% Tetradecane A Viscoplast Green 700 HVL C18-21 alkane (and) Dilinoleic acid / Propanediol Copolymer (and) Coco-caprylate / caprate 20,00 Mélange de SKYLINE F et de FDC YELLOW 6 AI-I2 (50% / 50%) C10-18 TRIGLYCERIDES, POLYISOPRENE, ACETYLATED GLYCOL STEARATE, GLYCINE SOJA OIL, LECITHIN 1,70 CI 15985:1, SOPROPYL TITANIUM TRIISOSTEARATE Mélange de SKYLINE F et de SA-TAO77891-10 (50% / 50%) C10-18 TRIGLYCERIDES, POLYISOPRENE, ACETYLATED GLYCOL 3,64 STEARATE, GLYCINE SOJA OIL, LECITHIN CI 77891, DIMETHICONE Mélange de SKYLINE F et de SA-C33128-10 (50% / 50%) C10-18 TRIGLYCERIDES, POLYISOPRENE, ACETYLATED GLYCOL STEARATE, GLYCINE SOJA OIL, LECITHIN 2,70 CI 77491, DIMETHICONE Mélange de SKYLINE F (60%) et de DC RED 27 AI-I2 (40%) C10-18 TRIGLYCERIDES, POLYISOPRENE, ACETYLATED GLYCOL STEARATE, GLYCINE SOJA OIL, LECITHIN 3,05 CI 45410:2, SOPROPYL TITANIUM TRIISOSTEARATE Mélange de SKYLINE F (60%) et de DC RED 7 Ca-C-TTB2 (40%) C10-18 TRIGLYCERIDES, POLYISOPRENE, ACETYLATED GLYCOL STEARATE, GLYCINE SOJA OIL, LECITHIN 3,75 CI 15850:1, SOPROPYL TITANIUM TRIISOSTEARATE Example A6: Comparison of hair serum formulations

[0125] The following hair serum formulations were compared for their properties when applied to hair.

[0126] The hair serum formulations were compared as follows: 3 strands of hair of approximately 4 g and a length of approximately 17 cm are washed vigorously with 25 ml of 12% Texapon NSO solution and are rinsed and then dried. 0.2 g of the formulations described in the table above are applied to each of the strands in order to compare the said formulations. The strand treated with Formulation 2 has better qualities than the Reference Formulation, particularly with regard to ease of styling; on the other hand, the strand treated with Formulation 1 is not suitable for very fine hair. Example A7: hair balm Reference balm

[0127] Trade name Name INCl % Xiameter ™< PMX-1501 Fluid Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethiconol 25,00 Belsil ®< DM 60000 Dimethicone 3,00 Marcol 82 Paraffinum Liquidum 25,00 DOW CORNING ®< 245 Cyclopentasiloxane 46,00 Scent Perfume 1,00 Balm example A7a

[0128] Trade name Name INCl % Xiameter ™< PMX-1501 Fluid Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethiconol 25,00 Belsil ®< DM 60000 Dimethicone 3,00 Marcol 82 Paraffinum Liquidum 25,00 30% Decane Coconut alkanes 46,00 40% Dodecane 30% Tetradecane Scent Perfume 1,00 Balm example A7b (excluding invention)

[0129] Trade name INCI name % Xiameter ™< PMX-1501 Fluid Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethiconol 25,00 Belsil ®< DM 60000 Dimethicone 3,00 Marcol 82 Paraffinum Liquidum 25,00 35% Decane Coconut alkanes 46,00 5% Octadecane 60% 9-methyl Nonadecane Scent Perfume 1,00

[0130] Balms A7a and A7b provide a light, silky oily feel on the hair.

[0131] Hair is shiny and easy to style. PART B - Physicochemical characteristics of the excipients according to the invention Example B1: evaporation characteristics of an excipient comprising an alkane mixture according to the invention

[0132] An alkane mixture comprising 30% n-decane, 40% n-dodecane and 30% n-tetradecane was investigated for its evaporation characteristics.

[0133] The evaporation conditions are as follows: LABOMODERNE THERMOBALANCE KERN DBS 60-3 desiccator, 20°C, under controlled atmosphere.

[0134] The evaporation curve obtained is given below: The measurements of the evaporation rates of the mixture comprising 30% n-decane, 40% n-dodecane and 30% n-tetradecane are given below in comparison with those of a mixture according to the prior art comprising 70% n-dodecane, and 30% n-tetradecane and those of cyclopentasiloxane. Evaporation of an excipient according to the invention (n-decane (30%), n-dodecane (40%) and n-tetradecane (30%)) Time (min) Total mass (g) Residual mass (%) 0 5,32 100 7 5,31 99,68 20 5,30 99,23 39 5,28 98,61 59 5,27 98,01 79 5,25 97,36 104 5,23 96,70 129 5,21 96,05 159 5,19 95,33 189 5,17 94,62 219 5,15 94,04 249 5,13 93,28 279 5,10 92,55 309 5,09 92,00 358 5,05 90,54 429 5,01 89,39 479 4,98 88,23 1438 4,42 69,27 Evaporation of a comparative alkane mixture (n-dodecane (70%) and n-tetradecane (30%)) Time (min) Total mass (g) Residual mass (%) 0 5,38 100,00 20 5,38 99,83 50 5,37 99,51 90 5,36 99,13 130 5,34 98,78 170 5,33 98,40 210 5,32 98,00 250 5,31 97,61 300 5,30 97,21 356 5,28 96,65 1620 5,00 87,14 Evaporation of Cyclopentasiloxane (D5) Time (min) Total mass (g) Residual mass (%) 0 5,39 100 7 5,38 99,82 20 5,37 99,55 39 5,36 99,16 59 5,35 98,75 79 5,33 98,31 104 5,32 97,82 129 5,31 97,36 159 5,29 96,85 189 5,28 96,44 219 5,26 95,94 249 5,25 95,51 279 5,24 95,12 309 5,23 94,55 356 5,20 93,72 429 5,17 92,74 479 5,14 91,97 1436 4,54 71,85

[0135] The results are shown on the Figure 1, the curve represented by diamonds is the evaporation curve of a mixture according to the prior art comprising 70% n-dodecane and 30% n-tetradecane, the curve represented by the squares is the evaporation curve of cyclopentasiloxane and the curve represented by the diamonds is the evaporation curve of a mixture according to the invention comprising 30% n-decane, 40% n-dodecane and 30% n-tetradecane.

[0136] It is observed that the curve of the mixture according to the invention is perfectly aligned with that of cyclopentasiloxane.

[0137] Furthermore, it has been shown that the evaporation is particularly surprising and not deducible from that of each of the alkanes taken separately. Example B2: evaporation characteristics of an excipient comprising an alkane mixture according to the invention

[0138] Several other excipients according to the invention (alkane mixtures) were tested for their evaporation speed, under conditions identical to those previously described. n-decane / n-dodecane / n-tetradecane mixtures

[0139] A mixture of alkanes consisting of 10% n-decane, 85% n-dodecane and 5% n-tetradecane was tested. The results are shown in the table below: Evaporation of an excipient according to the invention (10% n-decane, 85% n-dodecane and 5% n-tetradecane) Time (min) Total mass (g) Residual mass (%) 0 5,52 100 20 5,51 99,53 50 5,49 98,98 90 5,46 98,03 120 5,44 97,29 180 5,39 95,98 210 5,36 94,90 360 5,26 91,58 1440 4,81 77,10

[0140] A mixture of alkanes consisting of 15% n-decane, 80% n-dodecane and 5% tetradecane was tested. The results are shown in the table below: Evaporation of an excipient according to the invention (15% n-decane, 80% n-dodecane and 5% tetradecane) Time (min) Total mass (g) Residual mass (%) 0 5,46 100 20 5,44 99,43 50 5,42 98,74 90 5,39 97,58 120 5,36 96,63 180 5,31 95,02 210 5,29 94,52 360 5,17 90,51 1440 4,52 69,14

[0141] A mixture of alkanes consisting of 20% n-decane, 75.6% n-dodecane and 4.4% tetradecane was tested. The results are shown in the table below: Evaporation of an excipient according to the invention (20% n-decane, 75.6% n-dodecane and 4.4% tetradecane) Time (min) Total mass (g) Residual mass (%) 0 5,43 100 30 5,40 99,04 50 5,38 98,33 90 5,33 96,66 120 5,31 95,87 150 5,28 94,95 200 5,23 93,40 220 5,21 92,63 360 5,13 89,99 1440 4,51 69,42

[0142] A mixture of alkanes consisting of 20% n-decane, 74% n-dodecane and 6% tetradecane was tested. The results are shown in the table below: Evaporation of an excipient according to the invention (20% n-decane, 74% n-dodecane and 6% tetradecane) Time (min) Total mass (g) Residual mass (%) 0 5,37 100 20 5,36 99,49 40 5,34 98,93 60 5,32 98,25 80 5,31 97,79 100 5,29 97,23 120 5,27 96,64 140 5,25 95,96 160 5,24 95,44 190 5,21 94,39 230 5,17 93,24 270 5,14 92,06 300 5,12 91,43 330 5,09 90,58 360 5,07 89,72 1440 4,57 73,36

[0143] A mixture of alkanes consisting of 20% n-decane, 70% n-dodecane and 10% tetradecane was tested. The results are shown in the table below: Evaporation of an excipient according to the invention (20% n-decane, 70% n-dodecane and 10% tetradecane) Time (min) Total mass (g) Residual mass (%) 0 5,38 100 20 5,36 99,51 40 5,35 98,94 60 5,33 98,29 80 5,31 97,83 100 5,30 97,25 120 5,28 96,68 140 5,26 96,02 160 5,28 95,50 190 5,21 94,46 230 5,18 93,31 270 5,14 92,11 300 5,12 91,50 330 5,10 90,67 360 5,07 89,81 1440 4,58 73,31

[0144] A mixture of alkanes consisting of 20% n-decane, 75% n-dodecane and 5% tetradecane was tested. The results are shown in the table below: Evaporation of an excipient according to the invention (20% n-decane, 75% n-dodecane and 5% tetradecane) Time (min) Total mass (g) Residual mass (%) 0 5,45 100 13 5,43 99,17 43 5,39 98,07 73 5,36 96,78 113 5,32 95,45 173 5,24 92,86 203 5,20 91,77 353 5,08 87,70 1433 4,46 67,23

[0145] There Figure 2 represents the percentage of non-evaporated matter (expressed in %) as a function of time (expressed in seconds) of a certain number of compounds (cyclopentasiloxane) and mixtures of alkanes.

[0146] The curve represented by “-” (the curve which shows the mixture having the least tendency to evaporate from the graph) is the evaporation curve of a mixture of alkanes according to the prior art comprising 70% n-dodecane and 30% n-tetradecane.

[0147] The curve represented by “+” is the evaporation curve of cyclopentasiloxane.

[0148] The curve represented by diamonds is the evaporation curve of a mixture according to the invention comprising 20% ​​n-decane, 74% n-dodecane and 6% n-tetradecane.

[0149] The curve represented by squares is the evaporation curve of a mixture according to the invention comprising 20% ​​n-decane, 70% n-dodecane and 10% n-tetradecane.

[0150] The curve represented by triangles is the evaporation curve of a mixture according to the invention comprising 20% ​​n-decane, 75% n-dodecane and 5% n-tetradecane.

[0151] The curve represented by “x” is the evaporation curve of a mixture according to the invention comprising 10% n-decane, 85% n-dodecane and 5% n-tetradecane.

[0152] The curve represented by the stars is the evaporation curve of a mixture according to the invention comprising 15% n-decane, 80% n-dodecane and 5% n-tetradecane.

[0153] The curve represented by the circles is the evaporation curve of a mixture according to the invention comprising 20% ​​n-decane, 70% n-dodecane and 10% n-tetradecane.

[0154] It is noted that the mixtures according to the invention have an evaporation profile closer to cyclopentasiloxane than the mixture of alkanes according to the prior art. n-decane mixture / isohexadecane (excluding invention)

[0155] A mixture of alkanes consisting of 30% n-decane and 70% isohexadecane was tested. The results are shown in the table below: Evaporation of an excipient according to the invention (30% n-decane and 70% isohexadecane) Time (min) Total mass (g) Residual mass (%) 0 5,41 100 20 5,38 99,15 50 5,33 97,46 90 5,26 95,15 130 5,20 93,13 170 5,14 91,07 210 5,07 88,86 250 5,01 86,92 300 4,96 85,05 360 4,89 82,74 1620 4,27 62,38

[0156] There Figure 3 represents the percentage of non-evaporated matter (expressed in %) as a function of time (expressed in seconds) of a certain number of compounds (cyclopentasiloxane) and mixtures of alkanes.

[0157] The curve represented by triangles (the curve which shows the mixture with the least tendency to evaporate in the graph) is the evaporation curve of a mixture of alkanes according to the prior art comprising 70% n-dodecane and 30% n-tetradecane.

[0158] The curve represented by the squares is the evaporation curve of cyclopentasiloxane.

[0159] The curve represented by the diamonds is the evaporation curve of a mixture according to the invention comprising 30% n-decane and 70% isohexadecane.

[0160] It is noted that the mixtures according to the invention have an evaporation profile closer to cyclopentasiloxane than the mixture of alkanes according to the prior art, from approximately T = 900 seconds.

[0161] It is also notable that despite its large carbon number (C16), isohexadecane makes it possible to obtain a very volatile excipient (for example, more volatile than the same formulation comprising, instead of isohexadecane, a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane, see examples presented above).

[0162] Viscosity measurements at 40°C were carried out on the following compounds or mixtures: cyclopentasiloxane: 3.04 mm 2 < / s; isohexadecane: 3.18 mm 2 < / s; and the mixture n-decane (30%) / isohexadecane (70%): 1.89 mm 2 < / s.

[0163] It is notable that the use of isohexadecane makes it possible to obtain a viscosity close to that of cyclopentasiloxane. n-Decane mixtures / isododecane / isoeicosane (excluding invention)

[0164] A mixture of alkanes consisting of 5% n-decane, 30% isododecane and 65% isoeicosane (C20) was tested. The results are shown in the table below: Evaporation of an excipient according to the invention (5% n-decane, 30% isododecane and 65% isoeicosane) Time (min) Total mass (g) Residual mass (%) 0 5,44 100 30 5,38 98,13 50 5,35 96,90 90 5,26 93,94 120 5,22 92,64 150 5,17 91,16 200 5,10 88,76 220 5,06 87,57 360 4,96 84,07 1440 4,41 66,02

[0165] A mixture of alkanes consisting of 5% n-decane, 25% isododecane and 70% isoeicosane (C20) was tested. The results are shown in the table below: Evaporation of an excipient according to the invention (5% n-decane, 25% isododecane and 70% isoeicosane) Time (min) Total mass (g) Residual mass (%) 0 5,42 100 30 5,37 98,27 50 5,34 97,27 90 5,25 94,47 120 5,21 93,22 150 5,17 91,75 200 5,10 89,48 220 5,07 88,47 360 4,98 85,43 1440 4,50 69,76

[0166] There Figure 4 represents the percentage of non-evaporated matter (expressed in %) as a function of time (expressed in seconds) of a certain number of compounds (cyclopentasiloxane) and mixtures of alkanes.

[0167] On the figure 4 , the curve represented by the “x” is the evaporation curve of a mixture according to the prior art comprising 70% n-dodecane and 30% n-tetradecane.

[0168] The curve represented by the triangles is the evaporation curve of cyclopentasiloxane.

[0169] The curve represented by the diamonds is the evaporation curve of a mixture according to the invention comprising 5% n-decane, 30% isododecane and 65% isoeicosane.

[0170] The curve represented by the squares is the evaporation curve of a mixture according to the invention comprising 5% n-decane, 25% isododecane and 70% isoeicosane.

[0171] It is noted that the mixtures according to the invention have an evaporation profile closer to cyclopentasiloxane than the mixture of alkanes according to the prior art, from approximately T = 800 seconds. PART C - Synthesis of the alkanes constituting the excipients according to the invention Example C1 - Synthesis of 2, 3, 6 trimethylheptane Guerbet synthesis of a C10 alkane from isoamyl alcohol

[0172]

[0173] The reaction is carried out under the following conditions: Reagents used

[0174] Isoamyl alcohol 99% m, g 75,8 n, mol 0,86 KOH 85% m, g 1,1 % ( / alcohol) 1,5 Catalyst Name Pricat Cu 50 / 8 m, mg 19,0 % ( / alcohol) 0,025 Operating conditions

[0175] Fixed parameters Temperature, °C 180 à 230 Duration, h 24 Nitrogen bubbling No Analytical balance of the synthesis of Guerbet alcohol C10

[0176] Gross product Composition (CPG) (see method in appendix) Isoamyl alcohol, % <5% Alcohol iC10,% >75% Heavy, % Max 20%

[0177] Heavier C15 trimer-type products were obtained as impurities. Purification by vacuum distillation is therefore necessary.

[0178] Topping allows the elimination of traces of isoamyl alcohol.

[0179] A trimming then allows the elimination of heavier alcohols. Analytical balance sheet of the purification of Guerbet C10 alcohol

[0180] Finished product Composition (CPG) (see method in appendix) Isoamyl alcohol, % <1% Alcohol iC10,% > 94% Heavy, % <5% Dehydration of Guerbet C10 alcohol

[0181] 5-methyl-2-(propan-2-yl)hexan-1-ol Composition of Guerbet alcohol

[0182] Raw material Content, % Supplier 5-methyl-2-(propan-2-yl) hexan-1-ol Min 94% BIOSYNTHIS Raw materials used:

[0183] Raw material Supplier Alumina Johnson & Matthey Silica wool VWR Nitrogen Air Liquide Dehydration

[0184] A catalyst bed is placed halfway up the reactor. A thermocouple is placed at the heart of this bed. The latter is held in place by a grid on which silica wool is placed. Silica wool is added above the bed to block the catalyst bed.

[0185] The catalyst used is an industrial alumina supplied by Johnson & Matthey.

[0186] LHSV (Liquid Hourly Space Velocity) corresponds to the flow rate of alcohol passed through the reactor expressed in mL / min / mL of catalyst. Dehydration results

[0187] Alcohol T, °C LHSV d (mL / min) Conversion Quantity of water produced per 1 tonne of alcohol, kg Quantity of alkene produced per 1 tonne of alcohol, kg Guerbet alcohol C10 330 2,5 0,5 >99% 114 886 Alkene characterization

[0188] Alkene Alkene Formula Alkene iodine value g I2 / 100g Appearance at room temperature alkene ic10, 94% C10H20 161 Liquid Hydrogenation of alkenes

[0189]

[0190] The hydrogenation reaction takes place in a one-liter batch reactor. The operating conditions are detailed below.

[0191] The alkene 600g and the catalyst (Raney nickel) 3g are introduced into the reactor at room temperature. The reactor is inerted with 3X5bars of nitrogen and the temperature is raised to the working temperature of 180°C. 5bars of hydrogen are then introduced. After two hours the temperature is raised to 200°C and the pressure to 10bar. The reaction is then maintained for a further 3 hours. Characterization of the alkane

[0192] Alkane Hydrogen consumption per 1 tonne of alkene, kq H2 Alkane formula Alkene iodine value g I2 / 100g Appearance at room temperature Alkane ic10 12,7 C10H22 <1 Liquid Example C2 - Synthesis of 5-methylundecane Synthesis of Guerbet C12 from vegetable hexanolic alcohol

[0193]

[0194] The reaction is carried out under the following conditions Reagents used for the synthesis of Guerbet C12

[0195] n-hexanol 99% m, g 87,7 n, mol 0,86 KOH 85% m, g 1,3 % ( / alcohol) 1,5 Catalyst Name Pricat Cu 50 / 8 m, mg 22,0 % ( / alcohol) 0,025 Operating conditions of Guerbet C12 synthesis

[0196] Temperature, °C 180 à 230 Duration, h 24 Bullaqe nitrogen No Analytical balance of the synthesis of Guerbet alcohol C12

[0197] Gross product Composition (CPG) (see method in appendix) hexanol alcohol, % <5% 2 butyl octanol,% >75% Heavy, % Max 20%

[0198] Heavier C18 trimer-type products were obtained as by-products. Purification by vacuum distillation is therefore necessary.

[0199] Topping allows the elimination of traces of hexanolic alcohol.

[0200] A trimming then allows the elimination of heavier alcohols. Analytical balance sheet of the purification of Guerbet C12 alcohol

[0201] Finished product Composition (CPG) (see method in appendix) Isoamyl alcohol, % <1% 2 butyl octanol,% >94% Heavy, % <5% Dehydration of C12 guerbet alcohol

[0202]

[0203] The raw materials used for this study are presented in the following table. No hazardous reagents or solvents are used. The catalyst is industrial alumina. Composition of Guerbet alcohol

[0204] Raw materials Content, % Suppliers 2 butyl octanol Min 94% BIOSYNTHIS Raw materials used:

[0205] Raw materials Suppliers Alumina Johnson & Matthey Silica wool VWR Nitrogen Air Liquide Dehydration

[0206] Dehydration is carried out according to the procedure described above. The LHSV (Liquid Hourly Space Velocity) corresponds to the flow rate of alcohol passed through the reactor expressed in mL / min / mL of catalyst. Dehydration results

[0207] Alcohol T, °C LHSV d (mL / min) Conversion Quantity of water produced per 1 tonne of alcohol, kg Quantity of alkene produced per 1 tonne of alcohol, kg Guerbet alcohol C12 330 2,5 0,5 >99% 96,7 903 Alkene characterization

[0208] Alkene Alkene Formula Alkene iodine value g I2 / 100g Appearance at room temperature alkene ic12, 94% C12H24 151 Liquid Hydrogenation reaction

[0209]

[0210] Hydrogenation is carried out according to the procedure described above. Characterization of the alkane

[0211] Alkane Hydrogen consumption per 1 tonne of alkene, kg H2 Alkane formula Alkene iodine value g I2 / 100g Appearance at room temperature Alkane ic12 12,7 C12H26 < 1 Liquid

Claims

1. A cosmetic excipient comprising a mixture of alkanes, said mixture of alkanes comprising at least one C8-C10 alkane and at least one C ≥ 11 alkane, characterized in that the at least one C8-C10 is a C10 and the at least one C ≥ 11 alkane is a linear C12 alkane, wherein said at least one C8-C10 alkane is present in a mass percentage of between 10 and 30% (10 ≤ percent by weight ≤ 30%) relative to the total mass of said mixture of alkanes, wherein said mixture of alkanes is free of alkanes with an odd carbon number, and wherein said mixture of alkanes has a flash point of less than or equal to 69°C (≤ 69 °C).

2. The cosmetic excipient according to claim 1, characterized in that it is obtained entirely from raw materials of plant origin, bacterial origin, or animal origin.

3. The cosmetic excipient according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is obtained entirely from raw materials of plant origin.

4. The cosmetic excipient comprising a mixture of alkanes according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the at least one C8-C10 alkane is at least a linear or branched C10 alkane.

5. The cosmetic excipient comprising a mixture of alkanes according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the at least one C8-C10 alkane is selected from the group consisting of 4-methylnonane (C10H22, CAS 17301-94-9), 2-methylnonane (C10H22, CAS 871-83-0), n-decane (C10H22, CAS 124-18-5), and mixtures thereof.

6. The cosmetic excipient comprising a mixture of alkanes according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the at least one C8-C10 alkane is at least a C10 methyl alkane.

7. The cosmetic excipient comprising a mixture of alkanes according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the excipient further comprises polysilicone-11.

8. The cosmetic excipient according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the percentage of evaporation at t=10 hours is between 10 and 30 (10% ≤ percentage of evaporation at t=10 ≤ 30%).