Methods for obtaining aqueous extracts from tea leaves, compositions with such extracts and cosmetic uses thereof

Description

Technical field

[0001] The invention relates to the field of cosmetics and more particularly to active ingredients of natural origin used in the preparation of cosmetic formulations to improve the appearance of the skin or protect it.

[0002] The invention relates to a method for obtaining aqueous extracts of different types of teas and in particular fresh tea, pu'er tea, matcha tea or green tea, as well as tea extracts enriched with small RNA, sugars, phenolic compounds, organic acids, theine and theanine, cosmetic compositions comprising such extracts and their cosmetic uses for the care of the skin, scalp and appendages and more particularly for protecting the skin from external aggressions and oxidation, combating the signs of skin aging, increasing photoprotection, lightening the skin and improving skin hydration. Technical background of the invention

[0003] Plants of the genus Camellia include a large number of different species belonging to the Theaceae family. Botanists estimate that there are between 100 and 250 species of plants belonging to this genus. The genus Camellia is native to eastern and southern Asia from the Himalayan range, Japan and Indonesia.

[0004] Among the most well-known and used species is the species Camellia sinensis, commonly called tea plant which itself includes three botanical varieties: Camellia sinensis var. assamica, Camellia sinensis var. sinensis (Yunnan) and Camellia sinensis var. Cambodiensis. Another species Camellia assamica is known as a tea plant but its more delicate cultivation limits its use.

[0005] The species Camellia sinensis is used in the food industry for the production of various teas using the leaves. The processing of the leaves of Camellia sinensiscombined with the growing conditions will give the tea its particularity. Teas are differentiated in particular by their color and their organoleptic characteristics.

[0006] Once harvested, the leaves undergo a treatment specific to the type of tea and which determines the final degree of oxidation of the leaves. The different key stages are withering (softening the tea leaves in order to dry them), rolling (to extract the essential oils), fixation (by heating in order to stop the oxidation of the leaves), drying (hot air current to lower the humidity level) and fermentation (the leaves are placed in an oxygen-deficient environment to accelerate the proliferation of microorganisms).

[0007] Green tea is defined in this application as a tea (Camellia sinensis)whose natural oxidation is stopped quickly after the leaves are picked. To obtain green tea, the tea leaves are withered, rolled to extract the juices and then heated to block the oxidation process. There are two possible heating methods: the Chinese method which uses copper basins placed on a fire or the Japanese method passing the leaves through jets of steam (thus preserving their properties). Blocking oxidation maximizes the content of interesting molecules such as catechin and theanine.

[0008] Matcha tea is defined in this application as a green tea from Japan that has been obtained from tea leaves ( Camellia sinensis) ground into powder (matcha means "tea powder"). To obtain matcha tea, producers cultivate it in shaded areas to slow down photosynthesis and thus slow down the transformation of theanine into tannins. This technique gives matcha tea a unique vegetal and fruity flavor. The leaves are steamed to stop oxidation and obtain a green tea. Once dried, the leaves are ground with a stone mill to obtain a very fine, bright green powder. Matcha tea is very rich in polyphenols, a class of antioxidants with recognized health benefits.

[0009] In this application, pu'er tea is defined as a post-fermented green tea also called pu'er sheng in Asia or raw pu'er in the West. Pu'er tea originates from the Yunnan region of China. It is made from leaves of the species Camellia sinensis var. assamica.The tea leaves undergo an initial oxidation at the production site before being pressed into cakes or bricks. The cakes then undergo moderate fermentation by microorganisms, a fermentation that can be accelerated in a humid environment. The tea cakes are then partially oxidized during the natural aging process.

[0010] Many tea leaf extracts are described in the literature partly for their richness in phenolic compounds, often catechin-type polyphenols. On the other hand, there are few extracts on the market or described in the prior art that claim a composition rich in different types of phytomolecules other than polyphenols. Indeed, most tea leaf extraction methods of the prior art describe processes using organic solvents for their ability to extract polyphenols and mainly catechin-type polyphenols (WO2006 / 111666, KR2016021734A, KR2018125828A). The extracts described are rich in polyphenols and flavonoids, but do not contain phenolic molecules of the phenolic acid type because the latter are not extracted by this type of technique. Indeed, phenolic acids are mainly extracted in a polar solvent and ideally with water.Also other phytocompounds, which are known for their beneficial effects such as amino acids, organic acids, proteins, sugars and oligo-ribonucleotides such as small RNAs are not optimally extracted by these methods.

[0011] Cosmetic users now want to use formulas that are as natural as possible and that are as effective, if not better, than synthetic products. In the present invention, the extracts produced are 100% natural in order to meet consumer demands.

[0012] Moreover, despite the many anti-aging cosmetic products already on the market, the need for new effective cosmetic ingredients of natural origin is growing.

[0013] One problem that the invention aims to solve is to provide new aqueous tea extracts that meet the requirements of the current cosmetic market regarding naturalness criteria and yet exhibit remarkable biological efficacy and an absence of toxicity.

[0014] Indeed, too high a concentration of phenolic compounds such as catechin can cause phototoxicity phenomena and limit the stability of the extract over time. The extracts described in the present invention have a concentration of polyphenols and other phytomolecules of interest compatible with good efficacy. They also exhibit significant stability over time and an absence of toxicity.

[0015] Another problem that the invention still aims to solve is to provide new aqueous tea extracts enriched with compounds known for their effectiveness on the skin such as sugars, phenolic compounds, organic acids, theine and theanine as well as small RNAs obtained by the process.

[0016] The inventors have developed new tea extracts specifically enriched with small RNAs, sugars, phenolic and organic compounds, organic acids, theine, theanine, by a process which does not have the disadvantages of the processes of the prior art, such as for example the use of detergents and potentially toxic solvents in cosmetics.

[0017] The extracts thus obtained can be used in cosmetics for the care of the skin, scalp and appendages, to obtain multiple benefits and more particularly to protect the skin from external aggressions and oxidation, fight against the signs of skin aging, increase photoprotection, lighten the skin, improve skin hydration, strengthen the barrier function or even soothe the skin. Summary of the invention

[0018] The first subject of the invention is a process for obtaining an aqueous extract of tea leaves, of the species Camellia sinensis, chosen from fresh tea, pu'er tea, matcha tea or green tea, including the following steps: a) the tea leaves or tea powder are brought together with water and then optionally ground; b) phytic acid is added; c) the pH is adjusted to a value between 10 and 11; d) the mixture is kept stirring for at least one hour at a temperature between 40 and 80°C; e) the mixture obtained in c) is purified to remove the residual solid plant matter and the filtrate is collected; f) the pH is adjusted to a value between 6 and 8; g) the mixture is treated with powdered activated carbon; h) the mixture is filtered to remove the activated carbon and the filtrate is collected; i) the filtrate is treated with polyvinylpolypyrrolidones (PVPP); j) the mixture is filtered to remove the polyvinylpolypyrrolidones and the filtrate is collected; k) the pH of the filtrate is checked and readjusted, if necessary, to a value between 6 and 6.5.

[0019] The second subject of the invention is a crude aqueous extract of fresh tea leaves, pu'er tea, matcha tea or green tea, enriched in small RNAs with a length of at most 150 nucleotides, in sugars, in phenolic compounds and in organic acids, free of DNA, capable of being obtained by the process of the invention, having a dry weight of 5 to 30 g / kg, and comprising from 0.5 to 10 g / kg of sugars, from 0.050 to 2 g / kg of organic acids, from 0.050 to 5 g / kg of phenolic compounds including 0 to 200 mg / kg of catechin, 0.020 to 2 g / kg of theine and 0.020 to 2 g / kg of theanine and from 50 to 350 mg / kg of small molecular weight RNA with a length of at most 150 nucleotides.

[0020] The invention also relates to a diluted aqueous extract of fresh tea leaves, pu'er tea, matcha tea or green tea, enriched in small RNAs with a length of at most 150 nucleotides, in sugars, in phenolic compounds and in organic acids, devoid of DNA, capable of being obtained by the process of the invention, having a dry weight of between 4 and 20 g / kg of dry weight, a concentration of 0.2 to 5 g / kg of sugars, 0.030 to 1 g / kg of organic acids, 0.030 to 3 g / kg of phenolic compounds including 0 to 120 mg / kg of catechin, 0.010 to 1 g / kg of theine and 0.010 to 1 g / kg of theanine and 10 to 250 mg / kg of small molecular weight RNA with a length of at most 150 nucleotides, by weight of the total weight of the extract.

[0021] The third subject of the invention is a composition comprising, as active ingredient, an effective amount of at least one diluted aqueous extract of tea leaves chosen from an extract of fresh tea, pu'er tea, matcha tea or green tea according to the invention, or any mixture thereof, and a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0022] The fourth subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of the composition according to the invention for the care of the skin, scalp and appendages and more particularly for protecting the skin from external aggressions and oxidation, combating the signs of skin aging, increasing photoprotection, lightening the skin, or even improving skin hydration. Brief description of the drawings

[0023] The invention and the advantages resulting therefrom will be better understood upon reading the description and the non-limiting embodiments which follow, illustrated with reference to the appended figures in which: [ Fig. 1 ] Evaluation of the total sugar content by colorimetric method in the different tea extracts obtained according to examples 1 and 2. [ Fig. 2 ] Evaluation of the polyphenol content by colorimetric method in the different tea extracts obtained according to examples 1 and 2. [ Fig. 3 ] Evaluation of the organic acid content by HPLC-MS in the different tea extracts obtained according to examples 1 and 2. [ Fig. 4 ] Evaluation of the content of theanine, theine and catechin by HPLC-UV in the different tea extracts obtained according to examples 1 and 2. [ Fig. 5 ] Evaluation of the inhibition of hyaluronidase in the different tea extracts obtained according to examples 1 and 2 by measuring turbidity. [ Fig. 6 ] Evaluation of reactive oxygen species levels in skin biopsies stressed by monosodium glutamate and treated with the different pu'er tea extracts obtained according to Examples 1 and 2. Detailed description of the invention Definitions

[0024] All terms used in this specification have the most widely known meaning unless otherwise stated. For the purposes of the invention the following terms are defined as follows: "Tea extract" means all types of processing of leaves of the species Camellia sinensis.

[0025] The term "tea" refers to the leaves of the species Camellia sinensis in all their forms; whole or powdered, dry or fresh.

[0026] By "small RNAs" or "small molecular weight RNAs", or "small RNAs with a length of up to 150 nucleotides" is meant non-coding, small molecular weight RNAs (ribonucleic acids), with a length of up to 150 nucleotides, such as all types of small non-messenger RNAs, single and / or double stranded, for example micro-RNAs, interfering RNAs, introns, small nuclear RNAs or any RNA fragment originating from the plant and extracted by the method described in the invention. In the extracts according to the invention, the small RNAs are in the form of a complex mixture of numerous RNAs having a size predominantly between 25 and 150 nucleotides. Thus, RNAs derived from synthesis and therefore not natural, do not fall within this definition.

[0027] By "organic acids" we mean α-hydroxy acids (or AHAs), i.e., carboxylic acids derived from sugars contained in tea leaves, such as lactic, malic, citric, tartaric, succinic and uronic acids.

[0028] Phenolic compounds are defined as molecules of plant origin that possess at least one phenolic aromatic ring bearing one or more hydroxyl groups, such as phenolic acids, flavonoids such as catechin or its derivatives, tannins or any other polyphenol. Phenolic compounds are recognized as powerful antioxidant molecules, both in the plant and for cosmetic use. These secondary metabolites of the plant are also produced in the plant's defense mechanisms by biotic or abiotic stress.

[0029] Sugars refer to all types of sugars found in plants, including monosaccharides like glucose and fructose, as well as oligosaccharides and polysaccharides. Typically, polysaccharides contain more than ten monosaccharide units, while oligosaccharides contain three to ten monosaccharide units.

[0030] By "phytomolecules of interest" is meant all the molecules present in the tea extracts of the invention and in particular, small RNAs with a maximum length of 150 nucleotides, sugars, phenolic compounds, organic acids, theine and theanine.

[0031] When a range of values ​​is described, the bounds of that range should be understood to explicitly include all intermediate values ​​in the range. For example, a range of values ​​between 1% and 10% should be understood to include 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, and 10%, as well as all decimal values ​​between 1% and 10%.

[0032] Numerical percentage values ​​are percentages by weight, i.e. the weight of a compound relative to the total weight of the intended mixture, unless otherwise specified.

[0033] The compositions described herein may “comprise,” “consist of,” or “consist essentially of” the essential compounds or optional ingredients.

[0034] “Consist essentially of” means that the composition or component may include additional ingredients, but only if the additional ingredients do not alter the basic characteristics or novel characteristics of the composition or use described in this application.

[0035] By "topical application" is meant the act of applying or spreading the extract according to the invention, or a composition containing it, on the surface of the skin or a mucous membrane.

[0036] “Skin” means the skin of the face, including the area around the eyes and mouth, the nose, the forehead, the neck, the hands, but also the skin of the entire body.

[0037] “Scalp” means the skin covering the scalp, including hair follicles and interfollicular skin spaces.

[0038] "Apphanères" refers to hair and body hair (produced by hair follicles, as well as nails, rich in keratin.

[0039] "Lightening the skin" means reducing the intensity of skin color linked to the melanin content of the epidermis, either homogeneously or locally by acting on pigmentary disorders, such as age spots or senile lentigines.

[0040] By "effective quantity" is meant the minimum quantity of extract according to the invention which is necessary to obtain at least one of the desired biological activities or to protect the skin from external aggressions and oxidation, combat the signs of skin aging, increase photoprotection, lighten the skin and improve skin hydration, without this quantity being toxic.

[0041] By "skin hydration" we mean the water content and distribution of the upper layers of the epidermis.

[0042] We hear by “improvement of skin hydration” means any improvement in changes in the external appearance of the skin due to dehydration, such as, for example, dryness, tightness and discomfort, whether this condition is linked to internal or external factors, such as adverse environmental conditions.

[0043] By "signs of skin aging" we mean all changes in the external appearance of the skin due to aging such as, for example, wrinkles and fine lines, cracks, bags under the eyes, dark circles, sagging, loss of elasticity, firmness and / or tone of the skin, but also all internal changes in the skin which do not systematically result in a modified external appearance such as, for example, thinning of the skin, or all internal damage to the skin resulting from environmental stress such as pollution and solar radiation including UV rays.

[0044] By "signs of skin aging" we also mean pigmentary disorders such as senile lentigo or solar lentigo.

[0045] By "external aggressions" we mean solar radiation, including visible light, UV and infrared radiation, pollution, which can come from the ambient atmosphere outside or inside homes and includes particles of different sizes (10 µm for PM10, 2.5 µm for PM 2.5, or less than 100 nm for ultrafine particles) as well as several chemical elements (volatile organic compounds, polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, heavy metals, etc.).

[0046] By "improving the appearance of the skin" we mean that the skin texture appears finer, the luminosity more intense and the complexion more even.

[0047] By "physiologically acceptable" is meant a medium or solvent suitable for contact with the outer layers of the skin or mucous membranes, without toxicity, irritation, undue allergic or similar response or intolerance reaction, and proportionate to a reasonable benefit / risk ratio.

[0048] It is understood that the invention relates to mammals and more particularly to human beings. Extraction process

[0049] The ribonucleic acid (RNA) extraction protocols classically described use solvents unsuitable for cosmetic use (Zumbo, P. 2014 "Phenol-chloroform Extraction", 2014). These methods aim to obtain completely purified nucleic acids (RNA or DNA or small RNA), i.e. free of any other molecules of interest such as secondary metabolites, vitamins, sugars, peptides, etc. which can have beneficial effects for the skin and are therefore of cosmetic interest.

[0050] Document FR2831168 is also known, which describes a process for obtaining a plant extract rich in nucleic acids (DNA and RNA). The process uses cellulolytic enzymes.

[0051] Also known from the prior art are patent documents EP1723958 and WO03101376 which describe a composition for topical application comprising a synthetic double-stranded RNA oligonucleotide with a length of 12 to 40 nucleotides, of known sequence having an siRNA (“short interfering”) function.

[0052] Document FR 1502361 (also published under number WO2017084958) is also known, which describes a process for obtaining an aqueous plant extract, enriched in low molecular weight ribonucleic acids (RNA), to prepare cosmetic compositions. The process uses EDTA at a concentration of between 2 and 15 mM.

[0053] Using phytic acid instead of EDTA has the following advantages: Unlike EDTA, phytic acid is a natural molecule found in the coat of seeds such as cereals and legumes. Therefore, using phytic acid allows for a tea extract of 100% natural origin while maintaining good extraction efficiency of the phytomolecules contained in the plant. The extraction efficiency of small RNAs as well as other compounds present in tea leaves, such as sugars, phenolic compounds, or organic acids such as tartaric, malic, or citric acid.

[0054] The invention thus has as its first object an extraction process implemented to obtain an aqueous extract of leaves from all types of tea of ​​the species Camellia sinensis.

[0055] More particularly, the invention relates to an extraction process used to obtain an aqueous extract of fresh tea leaves, pu'er tea, green tea or even matcha tea.

[0056] The extraction process of the invention makes it possible to obtain an extract rich in phytomolecules of cosmetic interest such as small RNAs with a length of up to 150 nucleotides, sugars, phenolic compounds, organic acids, theine and theanine, avoiding the use of solvents which are not considered cosmetic solvents.

[0057] The method of the invention has a reduced impact on the environment.

[0058] The method of the invention can be applied to fresh tea leaves or to tea leaves that have undergone different preparations to meet the designation of matcha tea, green tea or pu'er tea.

[0059] In the first step a) of the process, the tea leaves are mixed with water. The water used is distilled, demineralized, or water rich in mineral salts and / or trace elements. The water preferably used is distilled water.

[0060] Tea leaves can come in different forms: fresh, dried, whole or powdered.

[0061] Preferably, fresh or dried tea leaves are ground in water in step a). Grinding tea leaves is a mechanical action that allows for better extraction. Grinding is unnecessary for tea leaves already in powder form, such as matcha tea, which is mixed directly with water.

[0062] In step a), the plant matter / water ratio is 3% to 20% weight / weight, more preferably 3 to 10%.

[0063] In step b) phytic acid is added to the tea-water mixture from step a).

[0064] The extraction process continues with alkaline lysis in the presence of phytic acid, promoting the complete destructuring of cell membranes as well as the nuclear membrane.

[0065] Phytic acid, which is an excellent chelating agent, will cause the weakening and destruction of the pecto-cellulosic membranes of plant cells by sequestering, through complexation, divalent ions such as calcium ions which form ionic bridges between the pectin molecules surrounding the cellulose microfibrils. This has the effect of promoting the release of cellular contents during extraction. The phytic acid treatment step in a basic medium is essential to enrich the extract with small molecular weight RNA and also to ensure a better extraction yield of other phytomolecules of interest; namely sugars, phenolic compounds, organic acids as well as theine and theanine.

[0066] Phytic acid is a molecule naturally present in the coats of seeds, such as cereals and legumes. Phytic acid is present in the form of calcium or sometimes magnesium salts, and it plays an important role for the plant; for example, it is the main source of phosphorus.

[0067] Preferably, the phytic acid used is a phytic acid powder in the form of sodium salt. Preferably, it is used at a concentration of between 1 and 10 mM, preferably between 1 and 5 mM and even more preferably at a concentration of 3 mM.

[0068] The 3 mM concentration is also optimal for better yield of other compounds of interest such as sugars, phenolic compounds, organic acids, theine and theanine.

[0069] In step c) the pH is adjusted to a basic value between 10 and 11 by adding sodium hydroxide (NaOH). In step c) it is essential that the pH is basic, between 10 and 11. Preferably, the pH is adjusted to a value between 10.3 and 10.8. Indeed, this pH level, associated with the action of phytic acid, causes the destructuring of the cell membrane, including the nuclear membrane, the lysis of plant cells and causes the denaturation of DNA (the 2 strands of the double helix are separated).

[0070] The pH control shows that it remains basic and stabilizes between 9 and 11 at the end of step c).

[0071] Extraction step d) preferably lasts at least 1 hour, at a temperature between 40 and 80°C. Preferably, the step lasts 1 hour. Advantageously, the step is carried out at a temperature between 60°C and 80°C. Even more preferably, the step is carried out at 80°C. During this step, the mixture is advantageously stirred moderately.

[0072] In a step e), the mixture obtained in d) is purified so as to remove the residual solid tea leaves and recover the soluble part which constitutes the crude aqueous extract according to the invention. Any method known to those skilled in the art may be used to carry out these purification steps. Preferably, the mixture is filtered directly through filters with a porosity greater than or equal to 30 µm so as to collect the filtrate. The mixture obtained in c) can also be centrifuged at low speed, for example for at least 10 min at 4000 g, so as to sediment the residual plant material in the pellet and recover the crude aqueous extract in the supernatant.

[0073] In step f), the pH is adjusted to a value between 6 and 8.

[0074] In step g) powdered activated carbon is added to the mixture. Preferably, a mixture of two different types of carbon is used, and even more preferably 0.25% (weight / weight) of each of the two types of activated carbon in order to create a synergistic effect on the decolorization of the extract. The activated carbons are selected for their ability to deplete the extract of polyphenols, the latter being mainly responsible for the color of the extract. This step preferably lasts thirty minutes, at a temperature between 40 and 50°C with stirring for an optimal result.

[0075] In step h), the mixture obtained in step g) is purified by removing the carbon particles using filters with a porosity greater than or equal to 30 µm so as to obtain a clarified filtrate.

[0076] In step i), the filtrate obtained in step h) is brought into contact with powdered polyvinylpolypyrrolidones (PVPP) in order to remove a maximum of phenolic compounds, such as high molecular weight polyphenols, such as tannins, contained in the mixture which would not have been retained by the carbon treatment step and which bring color to the extract and could disrupt the stability of the final extract. Preferably, a final concentration of between 5 and 30 g / l of PVVP is used. Even more preferably, a final concentration of 10 g / l of PVPP is used.

[0077] This step can last between 10 and 30 minutes and preferably ten minutes, at a temperature between 40 and 50°C with stirring for an optimal result.

[0078] The process according to the invention and in particular steps g) to i) make it possible to obtain extracts which contain little or no polyphenols of the catechin, epicatechin or epigallocatechin type. Only the extracts obtained from pu'er tea contain a low concentration of catechin. Analyses by thin layer chromatography have shown that none of the tea extracts of the invention contain epicatechin or epigallocatechin.

[0079] In step j) the mixture obtained in step i) is clarified by removing the PVPP particles by using filters with a porosity greater than 25 µm, followed by filtration using a filter with a porosity of 0.8 µm.

[0080] In a step k), the pH of the mixture obtained during step j) is then adjusted to a value between 6 and 6.5. A crude extract according to the invention is then obtained.

[0081] The pH can be adjusted by adding a solution of hydrochloric acid (HCl) or any other equivalent acid, compatible with cosmetic use, such as citric acid. The pH adjustment step in step k) of the process according to the invention is an essential step for obtaining a stable extract without precipitation of the phytochemical compounds of interest. Indeed, this pH is optimal for maintaining in suspension small molecular weight RNA, as well as other phytomolecules of interest; such as sugars, phenolic compounds, organic acids, theine and theanine.

[0082] Indeed, a pH lower than 6 can lead to the precipitation of nucleic acids in general, therefore that of low molecular weight RNA with a length of up to 150 nucleotides, or even the precipitation of certain sugars, polyphenols, and proteins. The pH adjustment step in step i) of the process according to the invention is an essential step to have optimal stability of the extract.

[0083] The extract obtained in step k) can be diluted with a physiologically acceptable solvent for cosmetic use in order to stabilize the product and increase its preservation over time. A diluted extract is then obtained.

[0084] The extract is diluted to obtain a dry weight between 4 and 20 g / kg, its pH is adjusted between 5.8 and 6.5, preferably between 6.0 and 6.5. This step improves the stability of the product over time.

[0085] The second subject of the invention is aqueous extracts of tea leaves obtained from fresh tea, pu'er tea, matcha tea or green tea, enriched in small RNAs with a length of at most 150 nucleotides, sugars, phenolic compounds, organic acids, theine and theanine and devoid of DNA, capable of being obtained by the method described above. This extract does not contain DNA (deoxyribonucleic acid).

[0086] The invention also relates to aqueous extracts of tea leaves obtained from fresh tea, pu'er tea, matcha tea or green tea, enriched with small RNAs of a length of at most 150 nucleotides, sugars, phenolic compounds, organic acids, theine, theanine directly obtained by the process described above. This extract does not contain DNA (deoxyribonucleic acid).

[0087] By using the process of the invention according to steps a) to k), aqueous concentrated crude extracts of tea of ​​amber to dark amber color are obtained having a dry weight of 5 to 30 g / kg, containing 0.5 to 10 g / kg of sugars, 0.050 to 2 g / kg of organic acids, 0.050 to 5 g / kg of phenolic compounds including 0 to 200 mg / kg of catechin, 0.020 to 2 g / kg of theine and 0.020 to 2 g / kg of theanine and 50 to 350 mg / kg of low molecular weight RNA with a length of up to 150 nucleotides. However, since the tea leaves are subjected to various treatments, the extracts obtained may exhibit significant variability depending on factors such as the place or year of harvest, the season, climatic conditions, biotic stress, etc.

[0088] The extract thus obtained can then be diluted in a physiologically acceptable solvent for cosmetic use, so that the concentration of the extract is then adjusted to a dry weight of between 4 and 20 g / kg.

[0089] Physiologically acceptable solvents include water, glycerol, ethanol, propanediol, butylene glycol, as well as their natural form, dipropylene glycol, ethoxylated or propoxylated diglycols, cyclic polyols, or any mixture of these solvents. Ethanol, butylene glycol, propanediol, and glycerin exist as synthetic or plant-derived solvents, the latter form being referred to as the natural form.

[0090] Thus the extract obtained can be mixed with 30 to 50% of butylene glycol derived from plants, or 30 to 50% of propanediol derived from plants or 30 to 70% of glycerin derived from plants.

[0091] Preferably, the extract obtained by the process according to the invention is diluted in butylene glycol such that the diluted extract comprises a final butylene glycol concentration of 30% or 50%.

[0092] This so-called diluted extract has a dry weight of between 4 and 20 g / kg, a concentration of 0.2 to 5 g / kg of sugars, 0.030 to 1 g / kg of organic acids, 0.030 to 3 g / kg of phenolic compounds including 0 to 120 mg / kg of catechin, 0.010 to 1 g / kg of theine and 0.010 to 1 g / kg of theanine and 10 to 250 mg / kg of low molecular weight RNA with a maximum length of 150 nucleotides.

[0093] By way of non-limiting example, mention may be made of a diluted extract of green tea containing more particularly sugars at a concentration of 1.4 g / kg, organic acids at a content of 95.5 mg / kg, 32 mg / kg of phenolic compounds and 77 mg / kg of low molecular weight RNA with a length of at most 150 nucleotides.

[0094] The extract of the invention thus comprises a wide range of phytomolecules which can have beneficial effects on the skin, without presenting any risk of skin irritation or other damage to health.

[0095] For example, sugars actively participate in the hydration of the upper layers of the epidermis, and thus in resistance to external aggressions, without presenting any undesirable effects. The tea extracts of the invention contain more particularly mono- and polysaccharides.

[0096] Camellia sinensis is part of the Theaceae family which produces theine, a powerful natural insecticide. Theine is also called caffeine or 1,3,7-trimethylxanthine or methyltheobromine. Beyond its recognized effects on the nervous and cardiovascular systems, theine also has beneficial effects on the skin, particularly on sagging skin.

[0097] The plant also produces theanine, a non-protein amino acid commonly found in tea leaves. Theanine is known for its relaxing effect on the brain, helping to reduce mental and physical stress.

[0098] The tea extracts according to the invention also contain phenolic compounds, such as polyphenols, phenolic acids, flavonoids like catechin, however this family of molecules has been partially removed by treatment steps with charcoal and PVPP. This relative depletion of phenolic compounds makes it possible to increase the stability of the product over time and to obtain a non-phototoxic extract.

[0099] In a particular embodiment of the invention, the diluted aqueous extract according to the invention contains a maximum of 1.5 g / kg of phenolic compounds, including a maximum of 120 mg / kg of catechin.

[0100] In another particular embodiment of the invention, the diluted aqueous extract according to the invention contains a maximum of 1.2 g / kg of phenolic compounds, including a maximum of 30 mg / kg of catechin.

[0101] In another particular embodiment of the invention, the diluted aqueous extract according to the invention contains a maximum of 100 mg / kg of phenolic compounds and does not contain catechin.

[0102] In yet another particular embodiment of the invention, the diluted aqueous extract according to the invention contains a maximum of 50 mg / kg of phenolic compounds and does not contain catechin.

[0103] In a particular embodiment of the invention, the diluted aqueous extract according to the invention contains a maximum of 3 g / kg of phenolic compounds and does not contain catechin.

[0104] A third subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising an effective amount of at least one aqueous tea extract chosen from fresh tea, pu'er tea, matcha tea, green tea, or any mixture thereof, obtained according to the invention, as active ingredient, and a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0105] Advantageously, the tea extracts according to the invention are added to a physiologically acceptable medium at a concentration of 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at a concentration of 0.1 to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] The composition usable according to the invention is formulated to be applied by any appropriate route, in particular orally, or externally, and the formulation of the compositions will be adapted by those skilled in the art.

[0107] Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are presented in a form suitable for topical application. These compositions must therefore contain a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. compatible with the skin and appendages, without risk of discomfort during their application and cover all suitable cosmetic forms.

[0108] The compositions for implementing the invention may in particular be in the form of an aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oily solution or gel, an oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil or multiple emulsions; they may also be in the form of suspensions, or even powders, suitable for application to the skin, mucous membranes, lips and / or hair.

[0109] These compositions can be more or less viscous and also have the appearance of a cream, a lotion, a fluid, a milk, a serum, an ointment, a gel, a paste, a balm or a mousse. They can also be presented in solid form, such as a stick or be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol.

[0110] As a physiologically acceptable medium commonly used in the intended field of application, examples that may be mentioned include adjuvants necessary for the formulation, such as solvents, thickeners, gelling agents, diluents, emulsifiers, antioxidants, colorants, sunscreens, self-tanning agents, pigments, fillers, preservatives, perfumes, odor absorbers, essential oils, vitamins, essential fatty acids, surfactants, film-forming polymers, esters, vegetable oils or butters, etc.

[0111] In all cases, the person skilled in the art will ensure that these adjuvants and their proportions are chosen in such a way as not to harm the desired advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention. These adjuvants may, for example, each correspond to 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. When the composition according to the invention is an emulsion, the fatty phase may represent from 2 to 90% by weight and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers used in the composition are chosen from those conventionally used in the field in question. For example, they may be used in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0112] According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the aqueous tea extracts of the invention can be encapsulated or included in a cosmetic vector such as liposomes or any other nanocapsule or microcapsule used in the field of cosmetics or adsorbed on powdery organic polymers, mineral supports such as talcs and bentonites.

[0113] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the active ingredient according to the invention, at least one other active agent having cosmetic effects similar and / or complementary to those of the invention.

[0114] For example, the additional active agent(s) may be chosen from: anti-aging, firming, lightening, moisturizing, draining, microcirculation-promoting, exfoliating, desquamating, extracellular matrix-stimulating, energy metabolism-activating, antibacterial, antifungal, soothing, anti-free radical, anti-UV, anti-acne, anti-inflammatory, anesthetic, providing a sensation of warmth, providing a sensation of freshness, slimming agents.

[0115] Such additional active agents may be selected from the groups comprising: vitamin A and in particular retinoic acid, retinol, retinol propionate, retinol palmitate; vitamin B3 and more particularly niacinamide, tocopherol nicotinate; vitamin B5, vitamin B6, vitamin B12, panthenol; vitamin C, in particular ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl tetrapalmitate, magnesium and sodium ascorbyl phosphate; vitamins E, F, H, K, PP, coenzyme Q10; metalloproteinase inhibitors, or a TIMP activator; DHEA, its precursors and derivatives; amino acids such as arginine, ornithine, hydroxyproline, hydroxyproline dipalmitate, palmitoylglycine, hydroxylysine, methionine and its derivatives, N-acylated amino acid compounds;natural or synthetic peptides, including di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- and hexapeptides and their lipophilic derivatives, isomers and complexes with other species such as a metal ion (e.g. copper, zinc, manganese, magnesium, and others). Examples include peptides commercially known under the names MATRIXYL ®< , ARGlRELlNE ®< , CHRONOGEN ™< , LAMINIXYL IS ™< , PEPTIDE Q10 ™< , COLLAXYL ™< (patent FR2827170, ASHLAND ®< ), PEPTIDE VINCI 01 ™< (patent FR2837098, ASHLAND ®< ), PEPTIDE VINCI 02 ™< (patent FR2841781, ASHLAND ®< ), ATPeptide ™< (patent FR2846883, ASHLAND ®< ) or the synthetic peptide with the sequence Arg-Gly-Ser-NH2, marketed under the name ATPeptide ™< by ASHLAND ®< ; Artemia salina extract, marketed under the name GP4G ™< (FR2817748, ASHLAND ®< );plant peptide extracts such as flax extracts (Lipigenin ™< , patent FR2956818, ASHLAND ®< ), soybean, spelt, vine, rapeseed, flax, rice, corn, pea extracts; yeast extracts, for example Dynagen ™< , (patent FR2951946, ASHLAND ®< ) or Actopontin ™< (patent FR2944526, ASHLAND ®< ); dehydroacetic acid (DHA); synthetic or natural phytosterols; salicylic acid and its derivatives, alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids, silanols; amino sugars, glucosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, mannosamine, N-acetyl mannosamine, galactosamine, N-acetyl galactosamine polyphenol extracts, isoflavones, flavonoids, such as grape extracts, pine extracts, olive extracts; lipids such as ceramides or phospholipids, oils of animal origin, such as squalene or squalane;vegetable oils, such as sweet almond oil, coconut oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, safflower oil, passion flower oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, calendula oil; ethoxylated vegetable oils, shea butter, cocoa butter, babassu oil; all UV screens and sun filters;cyclic AMP and its derivatives, adenylate cyclase enzyme activating agents and phosphodiesterase enzyme inhibiting agents, Centella asiatica extract, asiaticoside and asiatic acid, methyl xanthines, theophylline, theobromine, forskolin, esculin and esculoside, ACE inhibitors, Val-Trp peptide, neuropeptide Y inhibitor, enkephalin, Ginkgo biloba extract, dioscorea extract, rutin, yerba mate extract, guarana extract, oligosaccharides, polysaccharides, carnitine, ivy extract, fucus extract, hydrolyzed Prunella vulgaris extract, hydrolyzed Celosia cristata extract, of Anogeissus leiocarpus, Manihot utilissima leaf extract, palmitoylcarnitine, carnosine, taurine, elderberry extract, algae extracts such as Palmaria Palmata extract; hyaluronic acid or sodium hyaluronate as well as all its fractions and promoters;Menthol and menthyl lactate and other active ingredients with a cooling effect; Aloe vera, bisabolol, allantoin and other active ingredients with a soothing effect; Vanillyl Butyl Ether and other active ingredients with a warming effect; Benzoyl Peroxide and other anti-acne active ingredients.

[0116] The fourth subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of a composition comprising the tea extracts of the invention, originating from fresh tea, pu'er tea, matcha tea or green tea, or any mixture thereof, for the care of the skin, scalp and appendages, more particularly for protecting the skin from external aggressions and oxidation, combating the signs of skin aging, increasing photoprotection, lightening the skin, improving skin hydration.

[0117] In a particular embodiment, the invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition comprising the tea extracts of the invention obtained from fresh tea, matcha tea or green tea, or any mixture thereof, for the care of the skin, scalp and appendages, more particularly to protect the skin from external aggressions and oxidation, combat the signs of skin aging, increase photoprotection, lighten the skin, improve skin hydration.

[0118] The skin is an organ composed of several layers (dermis, epidermis and stratum corneum), which covers the entire surface of the body and provides protective functions against external aggressions, sensory, immune, metabolic, thermoregulatory or even a barrier limiting dehydration.

[0119] In particular, the stratum corneum acts as a protective physical barrier, commonly referred to as the "skin barrier function." This function is of major importance in tissue homeostasis and protection from the external environment.

[0120] The appearance of the skin can be modified by internal alterations (intrinsic aging, diseases and hormonal changes such as pregnancy) or external alterations (environmental factors, such as pollution, sunlight, pathogens, temperature variations, etc.). All these alterations affect not only the skin, but also the keratinous appendages such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails and hair. Examples

[0121] By way of illustration, examples of embodiments of the method according to the invention are described below. Example 1:Preparation of fresh tea extracts, pu'er tea, matcha tea or green tea (Camellia sinensis), enriched in small RNA according to the method of the invention:

[0122] In a first step a) to make the extract, matcha tea (Japanese green tea in powder form), pu'er tea (tea from Yunnan in the form of compressed whole leaves), green tea (tea in the form of dried leaves from China) and fresh tea (leaves directly collected from a tree) were used, all from the species Camellia sinensis.

[0123] Green tea or pu'er tea is weighed to represent 3% of the raw material used in the process, or 30g per 1kg. The amount of distilled water added is 968g.

[0124] Fresh tea is weighed to represent 6% of the raw material used, or 60g per 1kg, due to the water content representing half the fresh weight of the leaves. The amount of distilled water added is 938g.

[0125] The mixture of tea leaves and water is ground in a blender to allow better extraction of phytocompounds thanks to a larger exchange surface between the solid matter, the tea, and the aqueous extraction solution.

[0126] Matcha tea, whose dried leaves are already powdered, are added directly to a mixture of 968 g of distilled water and 2 g / l or 3 mM of phytic acid, previously homogenized.

[0127] In step b), phytic acid at 2 g / l (i.e. 3 mM final) is added to the mixtures of water and crushed tea leaves (except for matcha tea).

[0128] In step c), the pH is adjusted to 10.5 so that the extraction is optimal and allows enrichment of the extract in small molecular weight RNA as well as in various phytomolecules.

[0129] In step d) the mixture is heated for 1 hour at 80°C with moderate stirring.

[0130] In step e) the mixture is filtered using 30 µm porosity filters to separate the solid matter from the filtrate. Three sequential filtrations are then carried out using filters of decreasing porosity to clarify the plant extract down to a 3 µm porosity filtration.

[0131] Step f) The pH of the filtrate collected in step e) above 9 on average is adjusted between 6 and 8 to reach an optimal pH for the activated carbon treatment which follows.

[0132] Step g) A treatment with a duo of activated carbons is carried out in order to decolorize the extract, notably by removing polyphenols. 2.5 g of each type of carbon per liter of extract are added. The treatment lasts thirty minutes at a temperature between 40 and 50°C.

[0133] Step h): The carbons are removed by passing the extract through filters with a porosity of 30 µm.

[0134] In step i) a second decolorization treatment of the filtrate obtained in g) is carried out by adding powdered polyvinylpolypyrrolidone (PVPP). 10 g / l of PVPP are added to the extract in order to remove part of the tannins contained in the extract. The treatment time is 10 minutes at a temperature between 40 and 50°C.

[0135] In step j) sequential filtrations on filters of decreasing porosity are then carried out in order to remove the PVPP from the plant extract, a first filtration of 30 µm allows the PVPP to be retained followed by successive filtrations up to a porosity of 0.8 µm in order to clarify the extract.

[0136] In step k) the pH is checked and then adjusted to a value between 6 and 6.5 with a citric acid or hydrochloric acid solution.

[0137] Crude aqueous extracts with dry weights between 5 and 30 g / kg are obtained.

[0138] The extract obtained in step k) is diluted with 30% butylene glycol. This physiologically acceptable solvent for cosmetic use stabilizes the product and increases its preservation over time. This produces a diluted extract whose pH is adjusted to between 6.0 and 6.5.

[0139] The diluted extract thus obtained has a dry weight of between 4 and 20 g / kg.

[0140] The tea extracts thus obtained according to the process described in this example are called PSR (Plant small RNA) tea in the tables or figures presented in the invention. Example 2: Preparation of tea extracts (Camellia sinensis) by a so-called conventional extraction method:

[0141] For comparison purposes, tea extracts obtained by so-called conventional or classic extraction were made. This extraction process was chosen because it is optimal for extracting different types of phenolic compounds and other polar molecules such as sugars and amino acids, which makes it a good reference process for comparisons with the process of the invention applied in Example 1.

[0142] In a first step to make 1 kg of extract, the same teas as in Example 1 were used; matcha tea (Japanese green tea in powder form), pu'er tea (tea from Yunnan in the form of compressed whole leaves), green tea (tea in the form of dried leaves from China) and fresh tea (leaves directly collected from a tree) all from the species Camellia sinensis.

[0143] Dried or powdered tea leaves such as matcha tea, pu'er tea and green tea are weighed to represent 3% of the raw material used in the process, i.e. 30g per 1kg to which 970g of distilled water is mixed.

[0144] Fresh tea leaves, which represent 6% of the raw material used, or 60g per 1kg due to their natural water content, are mixed with 940g of distilled water. A grinding step was applied for fresh tea, green tea, and pu'er tea. The extraction pH is not adjusted and is between 5 and 7.

[0145] The mixture is then heated for 1 hour at 45°C with stirring.

[0146] The mixture is then filtered using 30 µm porosity filters to separate the solid matter from the filtrate. Sequential filtrations on filters of decreasing porosity are then carried out to clarify the plant extract down to 1 µm porosity filtration.

[0147] At the end of this step, a charcoal treatment is carried out in order to decolorize the extract, notably by removing polyphenols. 2.5 g of each charcoal per liter of extract is added. The treatment lasts thirty minutes at a temperature between 40 and 50°C and at a pH between 6 and 8. A 30 µm filtration is carried out to remove the charcoal from the extract.

[0148] Then a second bleaching treatment is carried out by adding polyvinylpolypyrrolidone (PVPP) powder. 10 g / l is added to the extract in order to remove some of the tannins contained in the extract. The treatment time is 10 minutes at a temperature between 40 and 50°C. Sequential filtrations on filters of decreasing porosity are then carried out in order to clarify the plant extract down to a filtration of 0.2 µm.

[0149] The pH is checked and then adjusted to between 6 and 6.5 with a solution of citric acid, hydrochloric acid, or sodium hydroxide.

[0150] Crude aqueous extracts having dry weights of between 1 and 5 g / kg are obtained. The process implemented in this example 2 aims to prepare a control extract to obtain comparative analytical data with respect to the different tea extracts obtained by the process of the invention. The results obtained are illustrated in the figures and in the text of the application. Example 3: Characteristics of tea extracts obtained according to example 1

[0151] The crude extract of fresh tea made from fresh leaves directly harvested from the tree has a dry weight of 6.5 g / kg. Physicochemical analysis shows that the extract obtained has a concentration of 2 g / kg of total sugars, 120 g / kg of total organic acids, 31 mg / kg of total phenolic compounds and 120 mg / kg of small molecular weight RNA with a length of up to 150 nucleotides.

[0152] The extract is then diluted with a physiologically acceptable cosmetic solvent to ensure better stability and preservation of the extract over time; the quantity of solvent can range from 30 to 70%.

[0153] Dilution is carried out with plant-derived butylene glycol to obtain a final concentration of 30% butylene glycol and 70% tea extract. The diluted extract then has a dry weight of 4.3 g / kg, and has a concentration of 1.4 g / kg of total sugars, 83 mg / kg of total organic acids, 48 ​​mg / kg of total phenolic compounds and 74 mg / kg of small molecular weight RNA with a length of up to 150 nucleotides.

[0154] The crude green tea extract made from dried leaves originating from China has a dry weight of 10.2 g / kg. Physicochemical analysis shows that the extract obtained has a concentration of 1.5 g / kg of total sugars, 137 mg / kg of total organic acids, 1.3 g / kg of total phenolic compounds and 110 mg / kg of small molecular weight RNA with a length of up to 150 nucleotides.

[0155] The extract is then diluted with a physiologically acceptable cosmetic solvent to ensure better stability and preservation of the extract over time; the quantity of solvent can range from 30 to 70%.

[0156] Dilution is carried out with plant-derived butylene glycol to obtain a final concentration of 30% butylene glycol and 70% tea extract. The diluted extract then has a dry weight of 7.1 g / kg, and has a concentration of 1.1 g / kg of total sugars, 96 mg / kg of total organic acids, 931 mg / kg of total phenolic compounds and 77 mg / kg of small molecular weight RNA with a length of up to 150 nucleotides.

[0157] The raw matcha tea extract prepared from crushed leaves originating from Japan has a dry weight of 14.2 g / kg. Physicochemical analysis shows that the obtained extract has a concentration of 2.4 g / kg of total sugars, 179 mg / kg of total organic acids, 2 g / kg of total phenolic compounds and 87 mg / kg of small molecular weight RNA with a length of up to 150 nucleotides.

[0158] The extract is then diluted with a physiologically acceptable cosmetic solvent to ensure better stability and preservation of the extract over time; the quantity of solvent can range from 30 to 70%.

[0159] Dilution is carried out with plant-derived butylene glycol to obtain a final concentration of 30% butylene glycol and 70% tea extract. The diluted extract then has a dry weight of 10.2 g / kg, and has a concentration of 1.7 g / kg of total sugars, 125 mg / kg of total organic acids, 1420 mg / kg of total phenolic compounds and 61 mg / kg of small molecular weight RNA with a length of up to 150 nucleotides.

[0160] The raw pu'er tea extract made from compressed whole leaves from Yunnan has a dry weight of 13.8 g / kg. Physicochemical analysis shows that the extract obtained has a concentration of 3.3 g / kg of total sugars, 137 mg / kg of total organic acids, 193 mg / kg of total phenolic compounds and 250 mg / kg of small molecular weight RNA with a length of up to 150 nucleotides.

[0161] The extract is then diluted with a physiologically acceptable cosmetic solvent to ensure better stability and preservation of the extract over time; the quantity of solvent can range from 30 to 70%.

[0162] Dilution is carried out with plant-derived butylene glycol to obtain a final concentration of 30% butylene glycol and 70% tea extract. The diluted extract then has a dry weight of 8 g / kg, and has a concentration of 1.1 g / kg of total sugars, 137 mg / kg of total organic acids, 1176 mg / kg of total phenolic compounds and 177 mg / kg of small molecular weight RNA with a length of up to 150 nucleotides. Example 4: Quantification of the different components of the diluted tea extracts obtained in Examples 1 and 2

[0163] The dry weight of each type of extract, obtained according to the method of the invention or according to a conventional method, was measured. The dry weight represents the weight of the extract after the water and volatile compounds have evaporated after 12 hours of heating at 105°C.

[0164] The dry extracts of the different tea extracts obtained by the process according to the invention have a higher dry weight than the tea extracts obtained by conventional extraction. The extraction yield is therefore higher when the process of Example 1 is applied to extract the different types of tea, see Table 1. [Table 1] PSR fresh tea extract Fresh tea extract from conventional tea PSR green tea extract Conventional green tea extract PSR matcha tea extract Conventional matcha tea extract PSR pu'er tea extract Conventional pu'er tea extract Dry weight (g / kg) 4,5 1 7,1 2,3 10 3,1 8 3,6 Extraction yield (%) 15 3,3 23,7 7,7 33,3 10,3 46 24

[0165] The total sugar content in the different tea extracts obtained by the process of the invention versus the extracts obtained by the conventional process was determined by spectrophotometric assay resulting from an adaptation of the assay described by Dubois et al. (1956) (Dubois et al., "Colorimetric method for the determination of sugars and related substances", Anal. Chem., 1956, 28 (3), 350-356). This analysis consists of dissolving the raw material in concentrated sulfuric acid and then reacting with phenol to form a colored complex. The absorbance of the complex is read on the spectrophotometer at 490 nm. The sugar content is determined using a glucose standard curve.

[0166] The analysis highlights the highest concentration of sugars extracted using the process described in the invention for all types of tea, fresh, green, marcha, pu'er tea compared with a conventional extraction process, see [ Fig. 1 ].

[0167] The total polyphenol content of the tea extracts according to the invention versus conventional tea extracts was determined by the Folin-Ciocalteu spectrophotometric assay method (Singleton et al., Analysis of Total Phenols and Other Oxidation Substrates and Antioxidants Using the Folin-Ciocalteu Reagent, 1999, 299: 152). The polyphenol compounds present in the sample react with the Folin-Ciocalteu reagent, oxidation of the reagent gives a blue color. The absorbance of the sample is read on the spectrophotometer at 760 nm. The total polyphenol concentration is expressed in gallic acid equivalents using a gallic acid standard curve. The analysis highlights the highest concentration of polyphenol extracted using the process described in the invention for all types of tea, fresh, green, matcha and pu'er tea compared with a conventional extraction process, see [ Fig. 2 ].

[0168] The characterization and quantification of organic acids contained in the tea extracts according to the invention versus conventional tea extracts was carried out. A high-performance liquid chromatographic analysis, coupled with a mass detector, was used. All samples were separated on an EC 150 / 4.6 Nucleoshell RP 18plus-5µm column (150x4.6 mm) (Macherey Nagel: 763236.46) by an Agilent 1260 HPLC system (Agilent Technologies). The flow rate was 0.3 ml / min. The mobile phase consisted of a 0.01% formic acid (HCOOH) solution (A) and acetonitrile (B). The gradient program facilitated the elution as described in Table 2.

[0169] [ Table 2] Time (min) A Water / 0.01% HCOOH (%) B Acetonitrile (ACN) (%) 0 100 0 9 100 0 13 5 95 14 5 95 15 100 0 20 100 0

[0170] The column temperature was maintained at 25°C and the injection volume was 5 µL. Detection was performed by an ACQUITY Qda mass spectrometer detector (WATERS) with an electrospray ion source in negative mode. The source was set at a capillary voltage of 0.8 kV and a probe temperature of 600°C. M / z and cone voltage were targeted for each compound as described in Table 3. [Table 3] Compounds Mass (m / z) Cone voltage (V) Tartaric acid 149,0 10 Malic acid 132,9 3 Citric acid 191,0 10 Lactic acid 88,9 5 Succinic acid 116,95 15 Uronic acid 193 10

[0171] Identification of organic acids was performed by comparing retention times and mass spectral peaks of the sample with a standard. Quantitative estimation of organic acids was performed based on the area of ​​chromatographic peaks compared to the areas of the standards.

[0172] The HPLC-MS analysis, which allows the quantification and identification of the organic acids contained in the different tea extracts obtained according to Examples 1 and 2, shows that the PSR tea extracts and the conventional extracts contain different types of organic acids, mainly citric, lactic, malic and succinic acid, as illustrated in Table 4. Tartaric acid and uronic acids were not detected in either the PSR tea extracts or the conventional extracts. [Table 4] Type of extracts Citric acid Lactic acid Succinic acid Malic acid Tartaric acid Uronic acids mg / kg PSR fresh tea 39,0 7,7 <LQ 36,7 nd nd conventional fresh tea 10,2 4,4 nd nd nd nd PSR green tea 35,6 20,1 3,4 36,4 nd nd conventional green tea 29,5 2,9 2,2 33,5 nd nd PSR Matcha tea 65,8 9,0 4,2 46,2 nd nd conventional matcha tea 62,3 6,1 6,6 35,7 nd nd PSR pu'er tea 77,1 8,1 5,1 46,5 nd nd conventional pu'er tea 66,8 nd 4,5 38,7 nd nd LOQ: limit of quantification; nd: not detected

[0173] The analysis also shows that these organic acids are extracted more by the process of the invention than by conventional extraction as presented on the [ Fig. 3 ].

[0174] The characterization of theanine contained in the tea extracts according to the invention versus conventional tea extracts was determined. Tea leaves contain this unique amino acid, which represents 50% of the total amount of amino acids in tea. It is a non-protein amino acid. High performance liquid chromatographic analysis, coupled with a UV detector, was used. All samples were separated by an Uptisphère C18-2 250 mm x 4.6 mm x 5 um column (Interchim) by an Agilent 1200 HPLC system (Agilent Technologies). The flow rate was 0.4 ml / min. The mobile phase consisted of 0.1% phosphoric acid (H3PO4) in aqueous solution (A) and acetonitrile (ACN) (B). Elution was facilitated by the gradient program as follows, see Table 5: [Table 5] Time (min) A Water / 0.1% H3PO4 (%) B ACN (%) 0 100 0 8 100 0 10 50 95 15 5 95 16 100 0

[0175] The column temperature was maintained at 30°C. The injection volume was 5 µL, and the detection wavelength was set at 196 nm and 210 nm using a UV detector. The theanine standard was purchased from Sigma-Aldrich. Theanine identification was performed by comparing the retention time and UV spectral peak of the sample with a standard. Quantitative estimation of theanine was performed based on the area of ​​the chromatographic peaks compared to the air of the standard.

[0176] The HPLC-UV analysis which makes it possible to quantify and identify the theanine contained in the different tea extracts obtained according to the process of the invention or according to a so-called conventional process, shows that the tea extracts obtained with the process of the invention contain theanine. However, less theanine is observed in the extracts obtained according to the invention than by conventional extraction as presented on the [ Fig. 4 ].

[0177] The characterization of theine, which is the same molecule as caffeine, is an alkaloid present in large quantities in tea leaves. The theine contained in the tea extracts according to the invention versus conventional tea extracts was also determined. All samples were separated on a 100 mm x 4.6 mm x 2.6 pm Uptisphere CS evolution C18-AQ column (Interchim) by an Agilent 1100 HPLC system (Agilent Technologies). The flow rate was 0.8 ml / min. The mobile phase consisted of 0.1% TFA (trifluoroacetic acids) in aqueous solution (A) and methanol (B). Elution was facilitated by the gradient program as follows, see Table 6: [Table 6] Time (min) Water / 0.1% TFA (%) B Methanol (%) 0 100 0 17,5 79 21 18,8 0 100 21 0 100 22 100 0

[0178] The column temperature was maintained at 25°C. The injection volume was 5 µL and the detection wavelength was set at 272 nm using a UV detector. The theine standard was purchased from Sigma-Aldrich. Theine identification was performed by comparing the retention times and UV spectral peaks of the sample with an authentic standard. A quantitative estimation of theine was performed based on the area of ​​the chromatographic peaks compared to the air of the standard.

[0179] The HPLC-UV analysis which makes it possible to quantify and identify the theine contained in the different tea extracts obtained according to the process of the invention or according to a so-called conventional process, shows that all the types of tea extracts obtained with the process of the invention or according to a so-called conventional extraction contain theine. The results show that the extracts obtained according to the process of the invention contain less theine than the tea extracts obtained by conventional extraction as presented on the [ Fig. 5 ].

[0180] Catechin quantification was also performed. Catechin exists in the form of several stereoisomers due to the presence of two asymmetric carbons. In nature, the most frequent isomers are (+)-catechin and (-)-epicatechin. The other two enantiomers are much rarer and their presence seems to be linked to enzymatic reactions or heat treatments. All samples were separated on a 100 mm x 4.6 mm x 2.6 pm Uptisphere CS evolution C18-AQ column (Interchim) by an Agilent 1100 HPLC system (Agilent Technologies). The flow rate was 0.8 ml / min. The mobile phase consisted of 0.1% TFA (trifluoroacetic acids) in aqueous solution (A) and methanol (B). Elution was facilitated by the gradient program as follows, see Table 7: [Table 7] Time (min) Water / 0.1% TFA (%) B Methanol (%) 0 100 0 4 100 0 20,5 65,9 54,1 27 32 68 29 5 95

[0181] The column temperature was maintained at 25°C. The injection volume was 20 µL, and the detection wavelength was set at 255 nm, 280 nm, 290 nm, and 324 nm using a UV detector. The catechin standard was purchased from Sigma-Aldrich. Catechin identification was performed by comparing the retention times and UV spectral peaks of the sample with an authentic standard. A quantitative estimation of catechin was performed based on the peak area of ​​the sample concentrations relative to the area of ​​the standard.

[0182] The HPLC-UV analysis which makes it possible to quantify and identify the catechin contained in the different tea extracts obtained according to the process of the invention or according to a so-called conventional process, shows that the tea extracts obtained either by the process of the invention or by conventional extraction contain little or no catechin-type polyphenols as illustrated in the [ Fig. 4 ]. Only the extracts obtained from pu'er tea contain a little catechin. This absence or the low quantity of these molecules in the extracts is explained in particular by the completion of the treatment steps with charcoal and PVPP which removed this type of compound. These results were also confirmed and completed by the performance of thin layer chromatography allowing the visualization of different molecules such as catechin, epicatechin and epigallocatechin. None of the tea extracts, whether obtained by the process of the invention or by the conventional process, contained these molecules. This confirms the effectiveness of the charcoal and PVPP treatment.

[0183] Quantification and measurement of the size of low molecular weight RNAs were carried out using a miniaturized electrophoresis technique on microfluidic chips specific to nucleic acid analysis such as that of low molecular weight RNAs (Bioanalyzer 2100 ®<, Agilent). This method makes it possible to determine the size and concentration of nucleic acids contained in an extract.

[0184] The results of the quantification by the Bioanalyzer show that the tea extracts obtained by the method described in the present invention make it possible to extract small molecular weight RNAs from the different types of tea as illustrated in Table 8. On the other hand, no small molecular weight RNAs are detectable in the conventional tea extracts (nd). [Table 8] Extract type Small RNA (mg / kg) PSR fresh tea 74 Conventional fresh tea nd PSR green tea 77 Conventional green tea nd PSR matcha tea 61 Conventional matcha tea nd PSR pu'er tea 177 Conventional pu'er tea nd nd: not detected

[0185] Evaluation of the tea extracts of examples 1 and 2 on their activity towards the inhibition of an enzyme, hyaluronidase in test in vitro: Principle:

[0186] The objective of this test is to demonstrate the inhibitory power of the extracts from Examples 1 and 2 on the activity of an enzyme such as hyaluronidase via a test measuring turbidity. Hyaluronidase catalyzes the degradation of hyaluronic acid (a glycosaminoglycan highly present in the dermis of the skin with moisturizing and anti-aging properties) into mono or disaccharides as well as smaller fragments of hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid has the ability to react with an acidic albumin solution and thus form a cloudiness that can be measured with a spectrophotometer at 600 nm. The measurement of the inhibition of enzymatic activity is therefore done by analyzing the turbidity levels of the samples after putting them in contact with the enzyme and its substrate. Protocol:

[0187] The enzyme is incubated with the extracts obtained according to Examples 1 and 2, so as to represent a final concentration of 1% in the reaction mixture, for 20 minutes at a temperature of 37°C, in a buffer at pH 7, ideal conditions for enzymatic equilibrium. The enzyme substrate, hyaluronic acid, is added to the mixture at a concentration of 0.3 mg / ml. The whole is slowly homogenized and then incubated for exactly 45 minutes at 37°C. The hyaluronic acid remaining in the mixture is then brought into contact with an acid albumin solution and homogenized. The time allowed for the reaction is 10 minutes before the transmittance is read at 600 nm on the spectrophotometer. The data are compared to those obtained with a negative inhibition control corresponding to the condition where the enzyme has degraded the substrate 100%, thus corresponding to an enzymatic activity of 100%. Results :

[0188] Tea extracts prepared according to Example 1 show a percentage of hyaluronidase inhibition ranging from 67.9% (for the weakest, fresh tea) to about 80% (for the strongest, matcha and pu'er tea). Tea extracts prepared conventionally according to Example 2 show percentages of inhibition ranging from 1.7% (the weakest, green tea) to 57.7% (the strongest, pu'er tea). Conclusion :

[0189] Tests to evaluate the inhibitory effect of extracts on hyaluronidase activity in vitro demonstrated that tea extracts prepared according to Example 1 exhibit significantly greater enzyme inhibitory power than extracts prepared according to Example 2 as shown in [ Fig. 5 ].

[0190] Example 6:Evaluation of pu'er tea extract prepared according to Example 1 versus conventional pu'er tea extract prepared according to Example 2 on reactive oxygen species after application of monosodium glutamate stress on skin biopsies Principle:

[0191] The aim of this study is to demonstrate the effect of the pu'er tea extract prepared according to the invention on the reduction of reactive oxygen species generated by monosodium glutamate stress. Glutamate is known as an excitatory neurotransmitter in the central nervous system. In the skin, glutamate signaling takes place in nociceptive nerve endings and mechanoreceptor fibers.

[0192] Thioredoxin (TRX) is a class of small proteins involved in redox processes known to be present in all organisms. The primary function of TRX-interacting protein (TXNIP) is to bind and inactivate TRX, leading to increased reactive oxygen species accumulation and apoptosis. TXNIP expression robustly correlates with the level of reactive oxygen species production. Protocol:

[0193] Ex vivo human skin biopsies were cultured with medium containing 100 mM monosodium glutamate and treated with either PBS (phosphate buffered saline) for the stressed control or with the pu'er tea extract prepared according to Example 1 at 0.5% (volume / volume dilution) and 1% (volume / volume dilution) or with the conventional pu'er tea extract prepared according to Example 2 at the same concentrations for 48 hours. As a non-stressed control, skin biopsies were cultured with conventional medium and treated with PBS. After treatment, the biopsies were fixed for histological analysis and embedded in paraffin. After deparaffinization, the antigenic sites were unmasked by microwave heat in citrate buffer at pH=6 and saturation was made with 5% bovine serum albumin for 30 minutes. A rabbit anti-TXNIP monoclonal antibody is then applied at 1 / 100 for 1 hour and 30 minutes in a humid chamber.The sections are rinsed in phosphate buffer and then incubated with an Alexa 488 ®< anti-rabbit secondary antibody for 1 hour in a humid chamber, protected from light. Finally, the sections are rinsed again in phosphate buffer and the slides are mounted for examination under an Eclipse E600 microscope (Nikon). The photos are taken with the Qlmaging Retiga 2000R Fast1394 camera and analyzed by the Q-Capture Pro 7 software (Qlmaging). Results :

[0194] The application of MSG stress resulted in an increase in reactive oxygen species (ROS) of +65% compared to unstressed skin biopsies. When the skin biopsies were treated with the extract of the invention at 0.5% (volume / volume dilution) and 1% (volume / volume dilution), ROS were highly significantly decreased by -28% and -29% respectively compared to untreated stressed explants. A conventional pu'er tea extract tested under the same conditions resulted in a smaller decrease of -7% and -18% respectively. The results are presented in [ Fig. 6 ]. Mean + / - sem; n=10. Statistical analyses with Student's t-test, ns: not significant; ***: highly significant. Conclusion :

[0195] The pu'er tea extract prepared according to the invention showed antioxidant activity, directed against reactive oxygen species. This activity was found to be superior to that obtained with a conventional pu'er tea extract. Example 7: Rich cream formula

[0196] [Table 9] Ingredients (Brand Name) INCI % w / w Phase A Purified water Aqua Qsp 100 100 Optiphen ™< Plus condom Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Sorbic Acid 1,50 Phase B Stabileze ™< QM polymer PVM / MA Decadiene Crosspolymer 0,15 Phase C ProLipid™<141 lamellar gel Glyceryl Stearate (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Palmitic Acid (and) Stearic Acid (and) Lecithin (and) Lauryl Alcohol (and) Myristyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Alcohol 5,00 Ceraphyl ™< 494 ester Isocetyl Stearate 4,00 Ceraphyl ™< SLK ester Isodecyl Neopentanoate 4,00 Dowsil 580 Wax Stearoxytrimethylsilane (and) Stearyl Alcohol 2,00 Emulsynt ™< GDL ester Glyceryl Dilaurate 3,00 Phase D Gransil DM-5 Dimethicone (and) Polysilicone-11 3,00 Phase E Hydroxyde de sodium Sodium Hydroxide 0,04 Eau purifiée Aqua 0,50 Phase F parfum Parfum / Fragrance 0,30 Phase G Extrait selon l'exemple 1 Butylene glycol (and) Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract 1,00 Covabead Velvet 10 Polymethyl Methacrylate 1,00 Phase H Eau purifiée Aqua 15,00 Natrosol ™< Plus 330 HMHEC Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose 0,50 Preparation process:

[0197] 1. Homogenize phase A in the main container and start heating to 75-80°C; 2. At 30°C, sprinkle in phase B and homogenize while heating; 3. In a separate beaker, prepare phase C, heat to 75-80°C until homogeneous; 4. At 75°C, add phase C to the main container and homogenize for 10 minutes; 5. Allow the temperature to cool and add phase D to 65°C. Mix well to homogenize for 10 minutes; 6. Premix phase E before adding it to the main container; 7. Add phase E at 60°C. Mix well to homogenize for 10 minutes; 8. At 35°C, add phase F and mix well; 9. Premix phase G before adding it to the main container; 10. Add phase G at 35°C. Mix well to homogenize; 11. In a separate beaker, prepare phase H: sprinkle Natrosol ™< into water at room temperature and homogenize while heating to 60°C; 12. Add phase H at 30°C.Mix well to homogenize; 13. Stop at 25°C.

[0198] The composition is thus presented in the form of a white butter cream, with a pH between 4.90 and 5.40 and a viscosity (D0) of 160,000 - 210,000 cps (Brookfield RVT / Spindle D / 5 RPM / 1 minute / 25°C). Exemple 8 : Formula of an anti-aging mask

[0199] [Table 10] Ingrédients (Nom de marque) INCI % w / w Phase A Eau purifiée Aqua Qsp 100 EDTA tétrasodique Tetrasodium EDTA 0,05 Phase B N-Hance ™< HP40S guar Hydroxypropyl Guar 0,10 Phase C Lubrajel ™< DV Free hydrogel Glycerin (and) Glyceryl Acrylate / Acrylic Acid Copolymer 6,00 Phase D Si-Tec ™< GF 3096 silicone Dimethicone (and) Dimethiconol 12,00 RapiThix ™< A-60 polymer Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Hydrogenated Polydecene (and) Trideceth-6 2,40 Phase E Optiphen ™< Plus preservative Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Sorbic Acid 1,50 Phase F Surfin* 96 Alcohol Denat. 3,50 parfum Parfum / Fragrance 0,50 Phase G Extrait selon l'exemple 1 Water / Aqua (and) Butylene glycol (and) Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract 1,00 Xirona Carribean Blue Mica (and) CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide) (and) Silica (and) Tin Oxide 1,00 Preparation process:

[0200] 1. At 25°C, homogenize phase A in the main container; 2. At 25°C, sprinkle in phase B and mix well until homogeneous; 3. At 25°C, add phase C and mix well until homogeneous; 4. Premix phase D in a separate beaker and add to the main container at 25°C; 5. At 25°C, add phase E to the main container and mix well; 6. Premix phase F and add it slowly. Mix well until homogeneous; 7. Premix phase G in a separate beaker and add to the main container until homogeneous; 8. Stop at 25°C.

[0201] The composition is presented in the form of a cream gel with shimmering green effects, with a pH between 5.30 and 5.80 and a viscosity (D0) of 70,000 - 100,000 cps (Brookfield RVT / Spindle C / 5 RPM / 1 minute / 25°C). Exemple 9 : Formula of a Serum

[0202] [Table 11] Ingrédients (Nom de marque) INCI % w / w Phase A Eau déminéralisée Aqua 87,40 Sodium Hyaluronate Sodium Hyaluronate 0,20 RapiThix ™< A-60 polymer Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Hydrogenated Polydecene (and) Trideceth-6 0,40 Lubrajel ™< DV hydrogel Glycerin (and) Glyceryl Acrylate / Acrylic Acid Copolymer (and) Propylene Glycol 6,00 Lubrajel ™< Oil hydrogel Glycerin (and) Glyceryl Acrylate / Acrylic Acid Copolymer (and) Propylene Glycol (and) PVM / MA Copolymer 1,00 Wacker-Belsil* DM 100 Dimethicone 2,00 Cyclopentasiloxane NF Cyclopentasiloxane 0,50 Extrait selon l'exemple 1 Water / Aqua (and) Butylene glycol (and) Camelia Sinensis Leaf Extract 1,00 Optiphen ™< preservative Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol 1,50 Preparation process:

[0203] 1. Add water to the main container and start mixing with a hi-lo propeller blade; 2. Add the remaining ingredients, one after the other, mixing between each addition.

[0204] The composition is thus presented in the form of a smooth, semi-opaque serum, with a pH between 5.75 and 6.25 and a viscosity (D0) of 1,100 - 1,400 cps (Brookfield RVT / spindle 3 / 20 rpm / 25°C / 1 minute).

Claims

1. Process for obtaining an aqueous extract of tea leaves (Camellia sinensis) selected from fresh tea, pu'er tea, matcha tea or green tea, comprising the following steps : a) tea leaves or tea powder are brought into contact with water, then optionally ground; b) phytic acid is added; c) adjust the pH to between 10 and 11 ; d) the mixture is stirred for at least one hour at a temperature of between 40 and 80°C; e) the mixture obtained in c) is purified to remove residual solid plant matter and the filtrate is collected; f) adjust the pH to a value between 6 and 8; g) treat with powdered activated carbon; h) filter to remove activated carbon and collect filtrate; i) treat filtrate with polyvinylpolypyrrolidones (PVPP); j) filter to remove polyvinylpolypyrrolidones and collect filtrate; k) the pH of the filtrate is checked and readjusted, if necessary, to a value between 6 and 6.5.

2. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that in step a) the tea leaves are brought into contact with water, in a botanical matter / water ratio of 3% to 20% w / w and preferably in a ratio of between 3% and 10%.

3. Process according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that in step b) the treatment is carried out with phytic acid at a concentration of between 1 and 10 mM and preferably between 1 and 5 mM.

4. Process according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that in step e) at least one filtration is carried out on filters with a porosity greater than or equal to 30 µm.

5. Process according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that in step j) sequential filtrations are carried out with filters having a porosity greater than 25 µm, followed by filtration with a filter having a porosity of 0.8 µm.

6. Process according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that after step k) the extract is subsequently diluted in a physiologically acceptable solvent and its pH is adjusted to a value between 5.8 and 6.5, preferably between 6.0 and 6.5, to obtain a diluted extract with a dry weight between 4 and 20 g / kg.

7. Process according to claim 6, characterized in that the physiologically acceptable solvent is selected from water, glycerol, ethanol, propanediol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethoxylated or propoxylated diglycols, cyclic polyols or any mixture of these solvents.

8. Crude aqueous extract of tea leaves obtained from fresh tea, pu'er tea, matcha tea or green tea, enriched in small RNA of a length of at most 150 nucleotides, in sugars, in phenolic compounds and in organic acids, devoid of DNA, obtainable by the process of one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it has a dry weight of from 5 to 30 g / kg, and it comprises from 0.5 to 10 g / kg of sugars, from 0.050 to 2 g / kg of organic acids, from 0.050 to 5 g / kg of phenolic compounds including 0 to 200 mg / kg of catechin, 0.020 to 2 g / kg of theine and 0.020 to 2 g / kg of theanine and from 50 to 350 mg / kg of small molecular weight RNA of a length of at most 150 nucleotides.

9. Diluted aqueous extract of tea leaves obtained from fresh tea, pu'er tea, matcha tea or green tea, enriched in small RNA of a length of at most 150 nucleotides, in sugars, in phenolic compounds and in organic acids, devoid of DNA, obtainable by the process of one of claims 6 or 7, characterized in that it has a dry weight of between 4 and 20 g / kg of dry weight, a concentration of 0.2 to 5 g / kg of sugars, 0.030 to 1 g / kg of organic acids, 0.030 to 3 g / kg of phenolic compounds including 0 to 120 mg / kg of catechin, 0.010 to 1 g / kg of theine and 0.010 to 1 g / kg of theanine and 10 to 250 mg / kg of small molecular weight RNA of a length of at most 150 nucleotides, by weight of the total weight of the extract.

10. Composition comprising, as active ingredient, an effective amount of at least one diluted extract according to claim 9, selected from fresh tea, pu'er tea, matcha tea or green tea or any mixture thereof, and a physiologically acceptable medium.

11. Composition according to claim 10, wherein said active ingredient is present at a concentration of between 0.05 and 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition and preferably between 0.1 and 2.5% by weight of the total weight of the composition and a physiologically acceptable medium.

12. Composition according to one of claims 10 or 11, characterized in that it is formulated to be applied topically to the skin, appendages and scalp.

13. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the composition of one of claims 10 to 12 for caring for the skin, scalp and appendages and more particularly for protecting the skin from external aggression and oxidation, combating the signs of skin ageing, lightening the skin or improving skin hydration.

14. Composition according to one of claims 10 to 12 for use in increasing photoprotection of the skin.