METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING A COVERING COMPONENT OF A CLOCK, A FASHION ITEM OR A JEWELRY OR DECORATIVE ITEM

Description

Technical field of the invention

[0001] The invention falls within the field of watchmaking, fashion articles, jewelry or precious metals, and relates more particularly to a method of manufacturing a component for the casing of a watch, a fashion article, jewelry or precious metals and a method of manufacturing such a casing component.

[0002] In this text, the concept of "fashion item" includes clothing items or accessories, such as belts, shoes, clothes, etc., and also includes eyewear, telephone items, or any other decorative object. Technological background

[0003] In the field of watchmaking in particular, watch components, including dials, flanges, bezels, etc., may feature, for decorative purposes, designs made from thin layers deposited on the surface of a substrate.

[0004] Depending on the size and number of details in the decorative element of the cladding component, its production can be relatively complex. In particular, when the decoration is formed by a combination of textures on a substrate and a thin layer deposited on the substrate, the alignment tolerances of the thin layer relative to the textures are especially difficult to maintain.

[0005] In general, the aforementioned problems are also found in the fields of fashion articles, jewelry or fine jewelry.

[0006] EP3709102A1 and EP3708384A1 disclose processes according to the preamble of claim 1.

[0007] In this context, the present invention aims to improve the precision and quality of the decorations of a component of the casing of a watch, a fashion item, jewelry or fine jewelry.

[0008] In particular, the invention solves the problem of respecting the alignment tolerances of decorations on a cladding component, in particular the alignment of a thin layer with respect to the structures of a face of a substrate on which said thin layer is deposited. Summary of the invention

[0009] The invention relates, for this purpose, to a method for manufacturing a component for the casing of a watch, a fashion item or a jewelry item, comprising the following steps: deposition of an internal layer on all or part of the surface of an internal face of a substrate made of a transparent material, localized removal of the internal layer so as to retain a part of said internal layer on a first portion of the internal face of the substrate, said removal being carried out so as to form at least one pocket opening onto a second portion of the internal face of the substrate and so as to structure said second portion of the internal face of the substrate, surface treatment of the internal layer and of the internal face of the substrate, deposition of an outer layer on all or part of the surface of an outer face of the substrate, localized ablation and / or etching of the outer layer, surface treatment of the outer layer.

[0010] In particular embodiments, the invention may further comprise one or more of the following features, taken individually or in all technically possible combinations.

[0011] In particular implementation modes, during a polishing step carried out before the inner layer deposition step, the inner face of the substrate is polished.

[0012] In particular modes of implementation, the process includes, before carrying out the surface treatment step of the inner layer and the inner face of the substrate, an etching step of the inner layer in which a part of the inner layer is removed so as to conform said layer according to a predefined shape, without impacting the inner face of the substrate.

[0013] In specific implementation modes, the localized ablation step of the inner layer is performed by laser beam.

[0014] In particular modes of implementation, the process includes a substrate etching step carried out so as to generate a pattern within the thickness of said substrate, without impacting the inner face, nor an outer face of said substrate opposite to the inner face.

[0015] In specific implementation methods, the localized ablation step of the outer layer is carried out in such a way as to: retain part of the outer layer on a first portion of the outer face of the substrate, form at least one pocket opening onto a second portion of the outer face of the substrate, said second portion extending at least opposite the second portion of the inner face of the substrate, and structure said second portion of the outer face of said substrate.

[0016] In particular modes of implementation, the etching step of the outer layer is carried out in such a way that part of the outer layer is removed in order to conform said outer layer to a predefined shape, without impacting the outer face of the substrate.

[0017] In particular embodiments, the etching step of the outer layer is advantageously carried out so that the inner layer is visible through the substrate.

[0018] In particular implementation modes, a polishing step in which the external face of the substrate is polished is carried out before the external and internal layer deposition steps.

[0019] According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a watch dial formed by implementing the process as previously described.

[0020] According to yet another aspect, the present invention relates to a fashion article comprising a clothing component formed by implementing the process as previously described. Brief description of the figures

[0021] Other features and advantages of the invention will become apparent from the following detailed description, given by way of non-limiting example, with reference to the accompanying drawings in which: there figure 1 schematically represents, in cross-sectional view, a cladding component being manufactured by implementing a step in a manufacturing process according to the invention; figures 2 to 5 schematically represent in cross-sectional view, a cladding component obtained by implementing the manufacturing process according to the invention in different implementation examples.

[0022] Note that the figures are not to scale. Detailed description of the invention

[0023] The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a housing component 10 as shown in the figures 2 to 5 in different examples of the implementation of said process.

[0024] The invention can advantageously constitute a component for the dressing of a watch, such as a dial, a component for the dressing of a fashion item, or of a jewelry or precious metal item.

[0025] The term “fashion articles” in this text defines any article or accessory of clothing, such as a belt, a shoe, a garment, etc., and further includes eyewear, telephone items, such as phone cases, or any decorative object.

[0026] The manufacturing process includes a first step of depositing a thin layer, called the "inner layer" 12, on all or part of the surface of an inner face 110 of a substrate 11 made of a transparent material, as shown in the figure 1 It should be noted that the term "transparent" in this text refers to a material's ability to allow all or part of a light spectrum to pass through, particularly light visible to the naked eye. Such a transparent material could be sapphire, glass, etc.

[0027] The inner face 110 of the substrate 11 is opposed to an outer face 111 from which a user is intended to see a decoration of the casing component 10, through said substrate 11. More particularly, the outer face 111 is intended to be oriented towards an external environment and the inner face 110 is intended to be oriented towards an internal environment, for example in relation to a watch movement, in the case where the casing component 10 is a component of a watch.

[0028] Such a deposit can be made by physical vapor deposition, chemical vapor deposition, or any other suitable method. For example, the inner layer 12 can be made of metallic material, in particular Cr, Au, Ti, Zr, or of dielectric material, either alone or in alloys.

[0029] Preferably, the inner face 110 is polished during a preliminary polishing step, prior to the deposition of the inner layer 12.

[0030] The process subsequently includes a localized ablation step of the inner layer 12, so as to form one or more pockets 14 opening onto the inner face 110 of the substrate 11, and at the same time, to structure said inner face 110 at the level of the pocket or pockets 14 in order to achieve a structure 112, as represented by the figure 2 .

[0031] Naturally, the process can involve several localized ablation steps to produce multiple structures 112. In particular, the ablation steps can be performed with different parameters to produce structures 112 with different appearances. However, in the present description of the invention, reference is made below to a single structure 112 for ease of reading. The term "structure" here defines a surface whose state, i.e., topography, has been modified, and this may consist of satin finishing, texturing, engraving, etc.

[0032] It should be noted that the parameters used for the implementation of the ablation step(s) are determined according to the desired aspect of the structure(s) 112, their determination being within the reach of a person skilled in the art.

[0033] Following the localized ablation step, the portion of the inner layer 12 not affected by the ablation rests against a first portion of the inner face 110 of the substrate 11, and the pockets 14 open onto a second portion of the inner face 110 of the substrate 11, this second portion of the inner face 110 being structured. Thus, the structure 112 coincides perfectly with the pocket 14 with which it is generated. Compliance with the alignment tolerances of the inner layer 12 with the structure 112 of the inner face 110 is therefore guaranteed.

[0034] The local ablation of the inner layer 12, and consequently the structuring 112 of the second portion of the inner face 110, is preferably carried out by laser beam. Alternatively, the local ablation step can be carried out by mechanical machining, such as by robotic engraving with a diamond tip, by chemical machining, etc.

[0035] A surface treatment step is then carried out on the inner layer 12 and the inner face 110 of the substrate 11, in particular on the second portion of said inner face 110. Such treatment may consist of the deposition of an anti-reflective coating layer or a coating made of a metallic, organic, ceramic, semiconductor, oxide, carbide, nitride, lacquer or enamel material.

[0036] Advantageously, in one embodiment, the process according to the invention may include, prior to the surface treatment step of the inner layer 12 and the inner face 110 of the substrate 11, an etching step of the inner layer 12 in which a portion of the inner layer 12 is removed so as to conform said layer to a predefined shape, without impacting the inner face 110 of the substrate 11, as represented in the figure 3 .

[0037] Such an engraving step can be implemented by photolithography, laser machining, etc.

[0038] Advantageously, the process may include a step of engraving the substrate 11 carried out so as to generate a pattern within the thickness of said substrate 11, without impacting the inner face 110, nor an outer face 111 of said substrate 11 opposite the inner face 110. This feature makes it possible to enrich the decoration generated by the implementation of the process according to the invention.

[0039] The process according to the invention comprises a step of depositing a thin layer, referred to as the "outer layer" 13, on all or part of the surface of an outer face 111 of the substrate 11, followed by a step of localized ablation of the outer layer 13, as shown in the figure 4 .

[0040] The removal is carried out so that a portion of the outer layer 13 is retained on a first portion of the outer face 111 of the substrate 11, and so as to form at least one pocket 15 opening onto a second portion of the outer face 110 of the substrate 11 and to structure, at the same time, said second portion of the outer face 110. In order to generate an attractive decoration, the second portion of the outer face 111 extends at least opposite the second portion of the inner face 110 of the substrate 11. Thus, the inner layer 12 and the structure 112 are visible through the pocket 15.

[0041] In addition to, or as an alternative to, the localized ablation step of the outer layer 13, the process may include an etching step of the outer layer 13, in a manner analogous to the etching step of the inner layer 12. Such an etching step is shown in the Figure 5in combination with the localized ablation step of the outer layer 13. The etching step of the outer layer 13 is advantageously carried out so that a portion of the outer layer 13 is removed in order to conform said layer to a predefined shape, without impacting the outer face 111 of the substrate 11. Such an etching step can be implemented by photolithography, laser machining, etc.

[0042] The result of the etching step of the outer layer 13 is shown on the Figure 5 , on which is also visible the internal layer 12 conformed in a predefined form at the end of the etching step of the internal layer 12, as described above in the text.

[0043] In other words, both the inner layer 12 and the outer layer 13 can be locally removed to generate specific designs. Specifically, the etching step of the outer layer 13 is advantageously carried out so that the inner layer 12 is visible through the substrate 11. In other words, the etching step of the outer layer 13 is performed so that a projection of the inner layer 12 onto the outer surface 111 of the substrate 11 extends beyond the outer layer 13, as shown in the Figure 5 .

[0044] The outer layer 13 and optionally the outer face 111 of the substrate 11, in particular the second portion of said outer face 111, are subsequently subjected to a surface treatment, for example as described previously for the inner layer 12 and the second portion of the inner face 110 of the substrate 11.

[0045] Advantageously, the outer face 111 of the substrate can be polished during a polishing step carried out before the outer layer deposition step 13 and before the inner layer deposition step 12, in order to avoid damaging said layers.

[0046] It is noted that, thanks to the features of the invention, the visual appearance of the decoration of the cladding component 10 can be particularly rich and attractive insofar as, in addition to the contrast between the possible color difference of the inner layer 12 and the outer layer 13, there is also the contrast between the different surface finishes of the portions of the inner face 110 and the outer face 111 of the substrate 11, on which said layers are respectively deposited. Furthermore, the process according to the invention makes it possible to generate a visual depth effect between the inner layer 12 and the outer layer 13.

[0047] More generally, it should be noted that the implementation and realization methods considered above have been described as non-limiting examples, and that other variants are therefore conceivable.

[0048] In particular, the inner layer 12 and / or the outer layer 13 can be made up of a stack of thin layers, in a way known per se to a person skilled in the art.

Claims

1. Method for manufacturing an external component (10) of a watch, of a fashion item or of a jewellery item, comprising the following steps of: - depositing an inner layer (12) on all or part of the surface of an inner face (110) of a substrate (11) made of a transparent material, - localised ablation of the inner layer (12), so as to conserve a part of said inner layer (12) on a first portion of the inner face (110) of the substrate (11), said ablation being performed so as to form at least one pocket (14) opening onto a second portion of the inner face (110) of the substrate (11) and so as to structure said second portion of the inner face (110) of the substrate (11), - treating the surface of the inner layer (12) and of the second portion of the inner face (110) of the substrate (11), and characterised by the following steps of: - depositing an outer layer (13) on all or part of the surface of an outer face (111) of the substrate (11), - localised ablation and / or engraving of the outer layer (13), - treating the surface of the outer layer (13).

2. Method according to claim 1, wherein during a polishing step performed before the step of depositing the inner layer (12), the inner face of the substrate (110) is polished.

3. Method according to one of claims 1 or 2, comprising, before performing the step of treating the surface of the inner layer (12) and of the second portion of the inner face (110) of the substrate (11), a step of engraving the inner layer (12) wherein a part of the inner layer (12) is eliminated so as to shape said layer according to a predefined shape, without the inner face (110) of the substrate (11) being impacted.

4. Manufacturing method according to one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the step of localised ablation of the inner layer (12) is performed by laser beam.

5. Manufacturing method according to one of claims 1 to 4, comprising a step of engraving the substrate (11) performed so as to generate a pattern inside the thickness of said substrate (11), without impacting the inner face (110), or an outer face (111) of said substrate (11) opposite the inner face (110).

6. Manufacturing method according to one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the step of localised ablation of the outer layer (13) is performed so as to: - conserve a part of the outer layer (13) on a first portion of the outer face (111) of the substrate (11), - form at least one pocket (15) opening onto a second portion of the outer face (111) of the substrate (11), said second portion extending at least facing the second portion of the inner face (110) of the substrate (11), and - structure said second portion of the outer face (110) of said substrate (11).

7. Method according to one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the step of engraving the outer layer (13) is performed so that a part of the outer layer (13) is eliminated in order to shape said outer layer (13) according to a predefined shape, without the outer face (111) of the substrate (11) being impacted.

8. Method according to claim 7, wherein the step of engraving the outer layer (13) is advantageously performed so that the inner layer (12) is visible through the substrate (11).

9. Method according to one of claims 1 to 8, wherein, a polishing step wherein the outer face (111) of the substrate is polished, is performed before the steps of depositing the inner (12) and outer layers (13).

10. Watch dial characterised in that it is formed by implementing the method according to one of claims 1 to 9.

11. Fashion item characterised in that it includes an external component formed by implementing the method according to one of claims 1 to 9.