Method for dyeing human hair, comprising the application of a dye having aminosilicone and pigment and subsequent irradiation with uv / vis radiation

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for dyeing human hair, said method comprising: (1) applying a dye (F) to the hair, said dye containing (f1) at least one amino-functionalised silicone polymer, and (f2) at least one pigment; and (2) irradiating the hair treated in step (1) for a period of 1 to 60 minutes with UV / VIS radiation in the wavelength range from 200 to 800 nm.

Description

[0001] Henkel AG & Co. KGaA

[0002] 2022P00053WO

[0003] A method for coloring human hair, comprising the application of a colorant containing aminosilicone and pigment and subsequent irradiation with UV / VIS radiation

[0004] The present application relates to a method for dyeing human hair, which comprises applying a dye (F) in step (1) and subsequently irradiating the hair dyed in step (1) for a period of 1 to 60 minutes with UVA / IS radiation in the wavelength range from 200 to 800 nm. The dye (F) contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (f1) and at least one pigment (f2).

[0005] Altering the shape and color of keratin fibers, especially human hair, represents an important area of ​​modern cosmetics. Depending on the coloring requirements, hair coloring specialists are familiar with various coloring systems. For permanent, intense colorings with good fastness properties and good gray coverage, oxidation dyes are typically used. Such dyes contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components, and coupler components, which, under the influence of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, form the actual dyes. Oxidation dyes are characterized by very long-lasting coloring results.

[0006] When using direct dyes, the fully formed pigments diffuse from the dyeing agent into the hair fiber. Compared to oxidative hair coloring, the colors obtained with direct dyes are less durable and wash out more quickly. Colorations with direct dyes typically remain on the hair for between 5 and 20 washes.

[0007] The use of color pigments is known for temporary color changes on hair and / or skin. Pigments or color pigments are generally understood to be insoluble, color-imparting substances. These are present undissolved in the form of small particles in the coloring formulation and merely deposit externally on the hair fibers and / or the skin surface. Therefore, they can usually be removed without residue after several washes with surfactant-containing cleansers. Various products of this type are available on the market under the name hair mascara.

[0008] If the user desires particularly long-lasting color results, the use of oxidative colorants has so far been the only option. However, despite numerous optimization attempts, an unpleasant ammonia or amine odor cannot be completely avoided with oxidative hair coloring. The hair damage still associated with the use of oxidative colorants also has a detrimental effect on the user's hair. Therefore, the search for alternative, high-performance coloring methods remains a challenge. One possible alternative coloring system that has recently gained increasing attention is based on the use of colored pigments.

[0009] Coloring with pigments offers several significant advantages. Because the pigments only attach to the keratin fibers, especially the hair fibers, from the outside, the damage associated with the coloring process is extremely minimal. Furthermore, unwanted coloring can be removed quickly and easily without leaving any residue, thus offering the user the opportunity to return to their original hair color immediately and without great effort. This coloring process is therefore particularly attractive for consumers who do not want to recolor their hair regularly.

[0010] Recent work has addressed the problem of the short durability of this coloring system. In this context, it was found that the washfastness of the color results obtained with pigments could be significantly improved by combining the pigments with certain amino-functionalized silicone polymers. Furthermore, by selecting particularly suitable pigments and pigment concentrations, a lighter color result could be achieved on dark hair, so that this coloring system even made it possible to lighten hair, which was previously only possible with oxidative hair treatments (bleaches or bleaching agents).

[0011] To achieve dyeings with the highest possible color stability, various formulations for the application of pigments and aminosilicones have already been described. However, the durability and washfastness achieved with these dyeing systems still require improvement. For this reason, we are continuing to search for ways to further improve the washfastness and color retention of dyeings obtained using pigments.

[0012] The object of the present invention was to provide a dyeing system that, if possible, possesses fastness properties comparable to oxidative dyeing. In particular, the washfastness properties should be outstanding, while avoiding the use of the oxidation dye precursors typically used for this purpose. The aim was to find a technology that would enable pigments to be fixed to the hair in an extremely permanent manner. When used in a dyeing process, the agents should achieve intensive dyeing results with good fastness properties, especially good washfastness, and good color retention.The work leading to this invention has now surprisingly shown that colorations produced by applying aminosilicones and pigments to the hair are particularly durable and resistant when the hair is subjected to artificial irradiation with electromagnetic radiation in the UV / VIS range after the coloring step.

[0013] A first object of the present invention is a method for dyeing human hair, comprising the

[0014] (1) applying a coloring agent (F) to the hair, which contains (f1) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer, and (f2) at least one pigment, and the

[0015] (2) Irradiation of the hair treated in step (1) for a period of 1 to 60 minutes with UV / VIS radiation in the wavelength range from 200 to 800 nm.

[0016] Within the scope of this invention, experiments were conducted in which hair strands were first dyed with a dyeing agent (F) containing at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (f1) and at least one pigment (f2). Following this dyeing step, the hair was then irradiated with an artificial irradiation source using UV / VIS radiation in the wavelength range from 200 to 800 nm. This showed that the hair treated in this way was coated with a film of aminosilicone and pigment, which possessed much greater resistance compared to non-irradiated hair strands. This improved resistance of the dyed hair was expressed in particular in improved washfastness.

[0017] Human hair

[0018] Human hair refers in particular to scalp hair, but also to eyebrows and eyelashes. Human hair is most preferably understood to mean scalp hair.

[0019] Coloring agents

[0020] In the context of this invention, the term "coloring agent" refers to the coloring of keratin material, particularly hair, caused by the use of pigments. In this coloring, the pigments, as color-imparting compounds, are deposited together with the amino-functionalized silicone polymer(s) in a particularly homogeneous, uniform, and smooth film on the surface of the keratin material.

[0021] Application of the dye (F) on hair

[0022] In step (1) of the dyeing process according to the invention, a dye (F) containing at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (f1) and at least one pigment (f2) is applied to the human hair. The dye (F) is a ready-to-use dye. Amino-functionalized silicone polymer (f1) in the dye

[0023] The colorant (F) contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (f1). The amino-functionalized silicone polymer can alternatively be referred to as aminosilicone or amodimethicone.

[0024] Silicone polymers are generally macromolecules having a molecular weight of at least 500 g / mol, preferably at least 1000 g / mol, more preferably at least 2500 g / mol, particularly preferably at least 5000 g / mol, which comprise repeating organic units.

[0025] The maximum molecular weight of the silicone polymer depends on the degree of polymerization (number of polymerized monomers) and the batch size, and is also determined by the polymerization method. For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferred if the maximum molecular weight of the silicone polymer is not more than 10 7 g / mol, preferably not more than 10 6 g / mol and particularly preferably not more than 10 5g / mol.

[0026] Silicone polymers comprise numerous Si-O repeating units, where the Si atoms may carry organic residues such as alkyl or substituted alkyl groups. A silicone polymer is therefore also referred to as polydimethylsiloxane.

[0027] In accordance with the high molecular weight of the silicone polymers, these are based on more than 10 Si-O repeating units, preferably more than 50 Si-O repeating units and particularly preferably more than 100 Si-O repeating units, most preferably more than 500 Si-O repeating units.

[0028] An amino-functionalized silicone polymer is a functionalized silicone that carries at least one structural unit with an amino group. The amino-functionalized silicone polymer preferably carries multiple structural units, each with at least one amino group. An amino group is defined as a primary amino group, a secondary amino group, and a tertiary amino group. All of these amino groups can be protonated in an acidic environment and are then present in their cationic form.

[0029] In principle, good coloring performance could be achieved with amino-functionalized silicone polymers if they carry at least one primary, at least one secondary, and / or at least one tertiary amino group. However, intensive colorations with the best washfastness were obtained when an amino-functionalized silicone polymer containing at least one secondary amino group was used in the product. In a particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that a coloring agent (F) is applied to the hair, which comprises at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (f1) with at least one secondary amino group.

[0030] The secondary amino group(s) can be located at various positions on the amino-functionalized silicone polymer. Particularly good color results were obtained when using an amino-functionalized silicone polymer that contains at least one, preferably several, structural units of the formula (Si-amino). -Amino)

[0031] In the structural units of the formula (Si-amino), the abbreviations ALK1 and ALK2 independently represent a linear or branched, divalent Ci-C2o-alkylene group.

[0032] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the colorant (F) contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (f1) which comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (Si-Amino),

[0033] -Amino) where

[0034] ALK1 and ALK2 independently represent a linear or branched, divalent C1-C2o alkylene group.

[0035] The positions marked with an asterisk (*) indicate the bond to other structural units of the silicone polymer. For example, the silicon atom adjacent to the star can be bonded to another oxygen atom, and the oxygen atom adjacent to the star can be bonded to another silicon atom or to a C1-C8 alkyl group.

[0036] A divalent Ci-C2o-alkylene group can alternatively be referred to as a divalent or divalent Ci-C2o-alkylene group, which means that each group ALK1 or AK2 can form two bonds.

[0037] In the case of ALK1, one bond is from the silicon atom to the ALK1 group, and the second bond is between ALK1 and the secondary amino group.

[0038] In the case of ALK2, one bond is formed from the secondary amino group to the ALK2 moiety, and the second bond is formed between ALK2 and the primary amino group.

[0039] Examples of a linear divalent C1-C2o-alkylene group include the methylene group (-CH2-), the ethylene group (-CH2-CH2-), the propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-), and the butylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-). The propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-) is particularly preferred. From a chain length of 3 carbon atoms, divalent alkylene groups can also be branched. Examples of branched, divalent C3-C2o-alkylene groups are (-CH2-CH(CH3)-) and (-CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2-). In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the structural units of the formula (Si-amino) represent repeating units in the amino-functionalized silicone polymer, so that the silicone polymer comprises several structural units of the formula (Si-amino).

[0040] Particularly suitable amino-functionalized silicone polymers with at least one secondary amino group are listed below.

[0041] Colorations with the very best wash fastness could be obtained when at least one agent was applied to the keratinic material during the coloring process, which contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer comprising structural units of the formula (Si-I) and the formula (Si-II) (Si-Il).

[0042] In a further explicitly very particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the colorant (F) contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (f1) which comprises structural units of the formula (Si-I) and the formula (Si-II) (Si-Il).

[0043] A corresponding amino-functionalized silicone polymer with the structural units (Si-I) and (Si-III) is, for example, the commercial product DC 2-8566 or Dowsil 2-8566 Amino Fluid, which is marketed by the Dow Chemical Company and bears the name "Siloxanes and Silicones, 3-[(2-Aminoethyl)amino]-2-methylpropyl Me, Di-Me-Siloxane" and the CAS number 106842-44-8. Another particularly preferred commercial product is Dowsil AP-8568 Amino Fluid, which is also marketed by the Dow Chemical Company.

[0044] In a further embodiment, the coloring can also be carried out by using a colorant (F) which contains at least one amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-III), where m and n are numbers chosen so that the sum (n + m) is in the range from 1 to 1000, n is a number in the range from 0 to 999 and m is a number in the range from 1 to

[0045] 1000, R1, R2 and R3, which are the same or different, represent a hydroxy group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, wherein at least one of the groups R1 to R3 represents a hydroxy group;

[0046] Further suitable methods are characterized by a colorant on the hair, wherein the colorant contains at least amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-IV), in which p and q are numbers chosen so that the sum (p + q) is in the range 1 to 1000, p is a number in the range 0 to 999 and q is a number in the range 1 to 1000,

[0047] R1 and R2, which are different, represent a hydroxy group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, wherein at least one of the groups R1 to R2 represents a hydroxy group.

[0048] The silicones of formulas (Si-III) and (Si-IV) differ in the grouping at the Si atom that carries the nitrogen-containing group: In formula (Si-III), R2 represents a hydroxyl group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, while the residue in formula (Si-IV) is a methyl group. The individual Si groups, which are designated by the indices m and n or p and q, do not necessarily have to be present as blocks; rather, the individual units can also be randomly distributed, i.e., in formulas (Si-III) and (Si-IV), not every R1-Si(CH3)2 group is necessarily bonded to a -[O-Si(CH3)2]- group.

[0049] Methods according to the invention in which a coloring agent is applied to the hair which contains at least one amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-V) have also proven particularly effective with regard to the production of intensive color results in the

[0050] A represents a group -OH, -O-Si(CH3)3,-O-Si(CH3)2OH,-O-Si(CH3)2OCH3,

[0051] D represents a group -H, -Si(CH3)3, -Si(CH3)2OH, -Si(CH3)2OCH3, b, n and c represent integers between 0 and 1000, with the provisos

[0052] - n > 0 and b + c > 0

[0053] - at least one of the conditions A = -OH or D = -H is fulfilled.

[0054] In the above-mentioned formula (Si-V), the individual siloxane units with the indices b, c and n are statistically distributed, ie they do not necessarily have to be block copolymers.

[0055] The applied colorant may also contain one or more different amino-functionalized silicone polymers represented by the formula (Si-VI)

[0056] M(RaQbSiO(4-ab) / 2)x(RcSiO(4-c) / 2)yM (Si-VI), where in the above formula R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R 1 HZ is, where R 1is a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z, composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms, or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and Z is an organic amino-functional radical containing at least one amino-functional group; "a" takes on values ​​in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" takes on values ​​in the range of about 1 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3, and x is a number in the range of 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number in the range of about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group as known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy.Non-limiting examples of the radicals represented by R include alkyl radicals such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl, and the like; alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, and the like; phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl, and the like; and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl, and the like; preferably, R is an alkyl radical containing 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably, R is methyl. Examples of R 1include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH2CH2SCH2CH2-, -CH2CH2OCH2-, -OCH2CH2-, -OCH2CH2CH2-, -CH2CH(CH3)C(O)OCH2-, -(CH2)3CC(O)OCH2CH2-, -C6H4C6H4-, -C6H4CH2C6H4-; and -(CH2)3C(O)SCH2CH2-.

[0057] Z is an organic, amino-functional residue containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for Z is NH(CH2) Z NH2, where z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is -NH(CH2) Z (CH2) ZZ NH, where both z and zz are independently 1 or more, this structure including diamino ring structures such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably a -NHCH2CH2NH2- radical. Another possible formula for Z is -N(CH2) Z (CH2) ZZ NX2 or -NX2, wherein each X of X2 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.

[0058] Q is most preferably a polar, amine-functional radical of the formula -CH2CH2CH2NHCH2CH2NH2. In the formulas, "a" takes on values ​​in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" takes on values ​​in the range of about 2 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3. The molar ratio of the R a QbSiO( 4-a -b) / 2 units to the R c SiO (4-c) / 2 units is in the range of about 1:2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1:5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. If one or more silicones of the above formula are used, then the various variable substituents in the above formula can be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone mixture.

[0059] In a further embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized by the application of a coloring agent to the hair, wherein the coloring agent is an amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-VII)

[0060] R' a G 3 a -Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiG bR'2- b)mO-SiG 3 a -R' a (Si-Vll), where:

[0061] - G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH3, -CH3, -O-CH2CH3, -CH2CH3, -O-

[0062] CH2CH2CH3, -CH2CH2CH3, -O-CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)2, -O-CH2CH2CH2CH3, - CH2CH2CH2CH3, -O-CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -O-CH(CH3)CH2CH3, - CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -OC(CH3)3, -C(CH3)3;

[0063] - a stands for a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0; - b stands for a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,

[0064] - m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably assumes values ​​from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values ​​from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,

[0065] - R' is a monovalent radical selected from o -QN(R")-CH2-CH2-N(R")2 o -QN(R")2o -QN + (R")3A- o -QN + H(R")2A- o -QN + H2(R")A- o -QN(R")-CH2-CH2-N + R"H2A- , where each Q represents a chemical bond, -CH2-, -CH2-CH2-, -CH2CH2CH2-, -C(CH3)2- , -CH2CH2CH2CH2-, -CH2C(CH3)2-, -CH(CH3)CH2CH2-,

[0066] R" represents identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH2- CH(CH3)Ph, the Ci-2o-alkyl radicals, preferably -CH3, -CH2CH3, -CH2CH2CH3, - CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH2CH2H3, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -C(CH3)3, and A represents an anion which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.

[0067] In a further embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized by the application of a coloring agent to the hair, wherein the coloring agent contains at least one amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-VIIa),

[0068] (CH3)3Si-[O-Si(CH3)2]n[OSi(CH3)] m -OSi(CH3)3(Si-VIIa),

[0069] CH2CH(CH3)CH2NH(CH2)2NH2wherein m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably assumes values ​​from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values ​​from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

[0070] According to the INCI declaration, these silicones are called trimethylsilylamodimethicones.

[0071] In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized by the application of a coloring agent to the hair, wherein the coloring agent contains at least one amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-VIIb) R-[Si(CH3)2-O]ni[Si(R)-O]m-[Si(CH3)2]n2-R (Si-VIIb),

[0072] (CH2)3NH(CH2)2NH2, wherein R is -OH, -O-CH3 or a -CH3 group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assuming values ​​from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assuming values ​​from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

[0073] These amino-functionalized silicone polymers are referred to as amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

[0074] Regardless of which amino-functional silicones are used, colorants according to the invention are preferred that contain an amino-functional silicone polymer whose amine number is above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g, and in particular above 0.4 meq / g. The amine number represents the milliequivalents of amine per gram of amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and can also be expressed in mg KOH / g.

[0075] Furthermore, colorants containing a specific 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone polymer are also suitable for use in the process according to the invention. This amino-functionalized silicone polymer comprises structural units of the formulas (Si-VIII) and (Si-IX).

[0076] Corresponding 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone polymers are described below.

[0077] A corresponding amino-functionalized silicone polymer is known under the name Amodimethicone / Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane Copolymer and is available in the form of the raw material

[0078] Belsil ADM 8301 commercially available from Wacker.

[0079] For example, a silicone containing structural units of the formulas (Si-VIII), (Si-IX) and (Si-X) can be used as a 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone. in which

[0080] R1 represents -CH3, -OH, -OCH3, -O-CH2CH3, -O-CH2CH2CH3, or -O-CH(CH3)2;

[0081] R2 stands for -CH3, -OH, or -OCH3.

[0082] Particularly preferred colorants contain at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (Si-Xl)

[0083] (Si-Xl) in the

[0084] R1 represents -CH3, -OH, -OCH3, -O-CH2CH3, -O-CH2CH2CH3, or -O-CH(CH3)2;

[0085] R2 stands for -CH3, -OH, or -OCH3.

[0086] B represents a group -OH, -O-Si(CH3)3,-O-Si(CH3)2OH,-O-Si(CH3)2OCH3,

[0087] D stands for a group -H, -Si(CH3)3, -Si(CH3)2OH, -Si(CH3)2OCH3, a, b and c independently of one another stand for integers between 0 and 1000, with the proviso that a + b + c > 0 m and n independently of one another stand for integers between 1 and 1000, with the proviso that at least one of the conditions B = -OH or D = -H is met, the units a, b, c, m and n are distributed statistically or in blocks in the molecule.

[0088] Structural formula (Si-XI) is intended to clarify that the siloxane groups n and m do not necessarily have to be directly bonded to an end grouping B or D. Rather, in preferred formulas (Si-VI), a > 0 or b > 0, and in particularly preferred formulas (Si-VI), a > 0 and c > 0, i.e., the terminal grouping B or D is preferably bonded to a dimethylsiloxy grouping. In formula (Si-VI), the siloxane units a, b, c, m, and n are also preferably distributed randomly.

[0089] The silicones used according to the invention represented by formula (Si-VI) can be trimethylsilyl-terminated (D or B = -Si(CH3)3), but they can also be dimethylsilylhydroxy-terminated on two sides or dimethylsilylhydroxy- and dimethylsilylmethoxy-terminated on one side. Silicones particularly preferably used in the context of the present invention are selected from silicones in which

[0090] B = -O-Si(CH3)2OH and D = -Si(CH3)3

[0091] B = -O-Si(CH3)2OH and D = -Si(CH3)2OH

[0092] B = -O-Si(CH3)2OH and D = -Si(CH3)2OCH3

[0093] B = -O-Si(CH3)3and D = -Si(CH3)2OH

[0094] B = -O-Si(CH3)2OCH3 and D = -Si(CH3)2OH. These silicones lead to exorbitant improvements in the properties of hair treated with the agents according to the invention and to significantly improved protection during oxidative treatment.

[0095] The colorants used in the coloring step can contain one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers, for example, in a total amount of 0.1 to 8.0 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.3 to 3.0 wt.%, and most preferably 0.4 to 2.5 wt.%. The amounts stated here are based on the total amount of all aminosilicones used, which is related to the total weight of the colorant.

[0096] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the colorant (F) contains—based on the total weight of the colorant (F)—one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers (f1) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20 wt. %, preferably 0.2 to 10 wt. %, more preferably 0.3 to 5 wt. %, even more preferably 0.4 to 3.5 wt. %, and most preferably 0.5 to 2.0 wt. % pigments (f2) in the colorant (F).

[0097] As a second essential component, the colorant (F) used in step (1) of the process according to the invention contains at least one pigment (f2).

[0098] Pigments in the sense of the present invention are understood to be color-imparting compounds which have a solubility in water at 25°C of less than 0.5 g / L, preferably less than 0.1 g / L, even more preferably less than 0.05 g / L. The water solubility can be determined, for example, using the method described below: 0.5 g of the pigment is weighed into a beaker. A stirring bar is added. Then, one liter of distilled water is added. This mixture is heated to 25°C for one hour while stirring on a magnetic stirrer. If undissolved components of the pigment are still visible in the mixture after this period, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L. If the pigment-water mixture cannot be visually assessed due to the high intensity of the pigment, which may be present in finely dispersed form, the mixture is filtered.If a portion of undissolved pigment remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L.

[0099] Suitable color pigments can be of inorganic and / or organic origin. In a preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent is applied to keratin material that has been colored by applying at least one inorganic and / or organic pigment.

[0100] Preferred color pigments are selected from synthetic or natural inorganic pigments. Inorganic color pigments of natural origin can be made from chalk, ochre, umber, green earth, burnt sienna, or graphite, for example. Other inorganic color pigments that can be used include black pigments such as iron oxide black, colored pigments such as ultramarine or iron oxide red, as well as fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments.

[0101] Particularly suitable are colored metal oxides, hydroxides, and oxide hydrates, mixed-phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, chromates, and / or molybdates. Particularly preferred color pigments are black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510), and / or carmine (cochineal).

[0102] Also particularly preferred color pigments according to the invention are colored pearlescent pigments. These are typically based on mica and / or mica and can be coated with one or more metal oxides. Mica belongs to the class of layered silicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite, and margarite. To produce pearlescent pigments in combination with metal oxides, the mica, predominantly muscovite or phlogopite, is coated with a metal oxide.

[0103] As an alternative to natural mica, synthetic mica, optionally coated with one or more metal oxides, can also be used as a pearlescent pigment. Particularly preferred pearlescent pigments are based on natural or synthetic mica and coated with one or more of the aforementioned metal oxides. The color of the respective pigments can be varied by varying the layer thickness of the metal oxide(s).

[0104] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the colorant (F) contains at least one inorganic pigment (f2), wherein the inorganic pigment is preferably selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or colored pigments based on mica or mica, which are coated with at least one metal oxide and / or one metal oxychloride.

[0105] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the colorant (F) contains at least one pigment (f2) which is selected from mica- or mica-based pigments coated with one or more metal oxides from the group consisting of titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide (CI 77491, CI 77499), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), chromium oxide (CI 77288) and / or iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510).

[0106] Examples of particularly suitable color pigments are commercially available under the trade names Rona®, Colorona®, Xirona®, Dichrona® and Timiron® from Merck, Ariabel® and Unipure® from Sensient, Prestige® from Eckart Cosmetic Colors and Sunshine® from Sunstar.

[0107] Ganz besonders bevorzugte Farbpigmente mit der Handelsbezeichnung Colorona® sind beispielsweise:

[0108] Colorona Copper, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)

[0109] Colorona Passion Orange, Merck, Mica, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Alumina

[0110] Colorona Patina Silver, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) Colorona RY, Merck, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 75470 (CARMINE)

[0111] Colorona Oriental Beige, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Dark Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, FERRIC FERROCYANIDE

[0112] Colorona Chameleon, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA Colorona Aborigine Amber, Merck, MICA, Cl 77499 (IRON OXIDES), Cl 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE)

[0113] Colorona Blackstar Blue, Merck, Cl 77499 (IRON OXIDES), MICA

[0114] Colorona Patagonian Purple, Merck, MICA, Cl 77491 (IRON OXIDES), Cl 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), Cl 77510 (FERRIC FERROCYANIDE)

[0115] Colorona Red Brown, Merck, MICA, Cl 77491 (IRON OXIDES), Cl 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE)

[0116] Colorona Russet, Merck, Cl 77491 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, Cl 77891 (IRON OXIDES)

[0117] Colorona Imperial Red, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (Cl 77891), D&C RED NO. 30 (Cl 73360)

[0118] Colorona Majestic Green, Merck, Cl 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, Cl 77288 (CHROMIUM OXIDE GREENS)

[0119] Colorona Light Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (Cl 77891), FERRIC FERROCYANIDE (Cl 77510)

[0120] Colorona Red Gold, Merck, MICA, Cl 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), Cl 77491 (IRON OXIDES)

[0121] Colorona Gold Plus MP 25, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (Cl 77891), IRON OXIDES (Cl 77491)

[0122] Colorona Carmine Red, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, CARMINE

[0123] Colorona Blackstar Green, Merck, MICA, Cl 77499 (IRON OXIDES)

[0124] Colorona Bordeaux, Merck, MICA, Cl 77491 (IRON OXIDES)

[0125] Colorona Bronze, Merck, MICA, Cl 77491 (IRON OXIDES)

[0126] Colorona Bronze Fine, Merck, MICA, Cl 77491 (IRON OXIDES)

[0127] Colorona Fine Gold MP 20, Merck, MICA, Cl 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), Cl 77491 (IRON OXIDES)

[0128] Colorona Sienna Fine, Merck, Cl 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA

[0129] Colorona Sienna, Merck, MICA, Cl 77491 (IRON OXIDES)

[0130] Colorona Precious Gold, Merck, Mica, Cl 77891 (Titanium dioxide), Silica, Cl 77491 (Iron oxides), Tin oxide

[0131] Colorona Sun Gold Sparkle MP 29, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, IRON OXIDES, MICA, Cl 77891 , Cl 77491 (EU)

[0132] Colorona Mica Black, Merck, Cl 77499 (Iron oxides), Mica, Cl 77891 (Titanium dioxide)

[0133] Colorona Bright Gold, Merck, Mica, Cl 77891 (Titanium dioxide), Cl 77491 (Iron oxides)

[0134] Colorona Blackstar Gold, Merck, MICA, Cl 77499 (IRON OXIDES)

[0135] Other particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Xirona® include:

[0136] Xirona Golden Sky, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide

[0137] Xirona Caribbean Blue, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Silica, Tin Oxide

[0138] Xirona Kiwi Rose, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide

[0139] Xirona Magie Mauve, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide. Other particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Unipure® include:

[0140] Unipure Red LC 381 EM, Sensient CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Silica

[0141] Unipure Black LC 989 EM, Sensient, CI 77499 (Iron Oxides), Silica

[0142] Unipure Yellow LC 182 EM, Sensient, CI 77492 (Iron Oxides), Silica

[0143] In a further embodiment, the applied colorant may also contain one or more organic pigments.

[0144] The organic pigments according to the invention are correspondingly insoluble, organic dyes or lakes which can be selected, for example, from the group of nitroso, nitro-azo, xanthene, anthraquinone, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyorrole, indigo, thioindido, dioxazine and / or triarylmethane compounds.

[0145] Particularly suitable organic pigments are, for example, carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 1 1725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.

[0146] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the colorant (F) contains at least one organic pigment (f2), wherein the organic pigment is preferably selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 1 1725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.

[0147] The organic pigment can also be a colored lake. For the purposes of the invention, the term colored lake refers to particles comprising a layer of absorbed dyes, the particle-dye unit being insoluble under the aforementioned conditions. The particles can be, for example, inorganic substrates, which can be aluminum, silica, calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, or even aluminum.

[0148] Alizarin lake, for example, can be used as a colored varnish.

[0149] Pigments with a specific shape can also be used to color hair. For example, a pigment based on a lamellar and / or lenticular substrate plate can be used. Furthermore, coloring based on a substrate plate containing a vacuum-metallized pigment is also possible.

[0150] In a further preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the colorant (F) contains at least one pigment (f2) which is selected from the group of pigments based on a lamellar substrate platelet, pigments based on a lenticular substrate platelet and vacuum metallized pigments.

[0151] The substrate platelets of this type have an average thickness of at most 50 nm, preferably less than 30 nm, more preferably at most 25 nm, for example at most 20 nm. The average thickness of the substrate platelets is at least 1 nm, preferably at least 2.5 nm, more preferably at least 5 nm, for example at least 10 nm. Preferred ranges for the thickness of the substrate platelets are 2.5 to 50 nm, 5 to 50 nm, 10 to 50 nm; 2.5 to 30 nm, 5 to 30 nm, 10 to 30 nm; 2.5 to 25 nm, 5 to 25 nm, 10 to 25 nm, 2.5 to 20 nm, 5 to 20 nm and 10 to 20 nm. Each substrate platelet preferably has a thickness that is as uniform as possible. Due to the low thickness of the substrate platelets, the pigment has particularly high hiding power.

[0152] The substrate platelets are preferably monolithic in structure. Monolithic in this context means consisting of a single, closed unit without fractures, stratification, or inclusions, although structural changes may occur within the substrate platelets. The substrate platelets are preferably homogeneous in structure, meaning that no concentration gradient occurs within the platelets. In particular, the substrate platelets are not layered and do not contain any particles or particles distributed within them.

[0153] The size of the substrate platelet can be tailored to the respective application, in particular the desired effect on the keratinic material. As a rule, the substrate platelets have an average largest diameter of approximately 2 to 200 μm, in particular approximately 5 to 100 μm. In a preferred embodiment, the aspect ratio, expressed as the ratio of the average size to the average thickness, is at least 80, preferably at least 200, more preferably at least 500, and particularly preferably more than 750. The average size of the uncoated substrate platelets is understood to be the d50 value of the uncoated substrate platelets. Unless otherwise stated, the d50 value was determined using a Sympatec Heios device with Quixel wet dispersion. For sample preparation, the sample to be examined was predispersed in isopropanol for a period of 3 minutes.

[0154] The substrate platelets can be made of any material that can be formed into platelets.

[0155] They can be of natural origin or synthetically produced. Materials from which the substrate platelets can be constructed include metals and metal alloys, metal oxides, preferably aluminum oxide, inorganic compounds and minerals such as mica and (semi-)precious stones, as well as plastics. The substrate platelets are preferably made of metal (or metal alloys).

[0156] Any metal suitable for metallic luster pigments can be considered. Such metals include iron and steel, as well as all air- and water-resistant (semi)metals such as platinum, zinc, chromium, molybdenum, and silicon, as well as their alloys such as aluminum bronze and brass. Preferred metals are aluminum, copper, silver, and gold. Preferred substrate platelets are aluminum platelets and brass platelets, with aluminum platelets being particularly preferred.

[0157] Lamellar substrate platelets are characterized by an irregularly structured edge and are also called "cornflakes" due to their appearance.

[0158] Due to their irregular structure, pigments based on lamellar substrate platelets generate a high degree of scattered light. Furthermore, pigments based on lamellar substrate platelets do not completely cover the existing color of a keratinous material, and effects similar to natural graying can be achieved, for example.

[0159] Lenticular (= lens-shaped) substrate platelets have a substantially regular, round edge and are also referred to as "silver dollars" due to their appearance. Due to their regular structure, the proportion of reflected light predominates in pigments based on lenticular substrate platelets. Vacuum metallized pigments (VMPs) can be obtained, for example, by releasing metals, metal alloys, or metal oxides from appropriately coated foils. They are characterized by a particularly low thickness of the substrate platelets in the range of 5 to 50 nm and by a particularly smooth surface with increased reflectivity. Substrate platelets comprising a pigment metallized in a vacuum are also referred to as VMP substrate platelets in this application. VMP substrate platelets made of aluminum can be obtained, for example, by releasing aluminum from metallized foils.

[0160] The substrate plates made of metal or metal alloy can be passivated, for example by anodizing (oxide layer) or chromating.

[0161] Uncoated lamellar, lenticular, and / or VPM substrate plates, especially those made of metal or metal alloy, reflect incident light to a high degree and produce a light-dark flop. These have proven particularly preferred for use in the colorant.

[0162] Suitable pigments based on a lamellar substrate platelet include, for example, the pigments of the VISIONAIRE series from Eckart.

[0163] Pigments based on a lenticular substrate platelet are available, for example, under the name Alegrace® Gorgeous from Schlenk Metallic Pigments GmbH.

[0164] Pigments based on a substrate platelet comprising a vacuum metallized pigment are available, for example, under the name Alegrace® Marvelous or Alegrace® Aurous from Schlenk Metallic Pigments GmbH.

[0165] Due to their excellent light and temperature stability, the use of the aforementioned pigments in the agent according to the invention is very particularly preferred. Furthermore, it is preferred if the pigments used have a specific particle size. It is therefore advantageous according to the invention if the at least one pigment has an average particle size D50 of 1.0 to 50 pm, preferably of 5.0 to 45 pm, more preferably of 10 to 40 pm, in particular of 14 to 30 pm. The average particle size D50 can be determined, for example, using dynamic light scattering (DLS).

[0166] The pigments (f2) are preferably used in specific quantity ranges in the colorant (F). The colorant used in the coloring process according to the invention may contain one or more pigments, for example, in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt. %, preferably 0.1 to 5.0 wt. %, more preferably 0.2 to 2.5 wt. %, and most preferably 0.25 to 1.5 wt. %. The quantities stated here are based on the total amount of all pigments used, which is related to the total weight of the colorant.

[0167] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, a process according to the invention is characterized in that the colorant (F) - based on the total weight of the colorant (F) - contains one or more pigments (f2) in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 2.5% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.25 to 1.5% by weight.

[0168] Water content in the dye (F)

[0169] The previously described coloring agent (F) is a ready-to-use agent that is applied to the hair. This ready-to-use agent preferably has a low to medium water content. It has been found that coloring agents that contain—based on the total weight of the agent—0.1 to 50.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 35.0 wt.%, more preferably 1.0 to 20.0 wt.%, and particularly preferably 1.5 to 15.0 wt.% water are particularly suitable.

[0170] In a further explicitly very particularly preferred embodiment, a process is characterized in that the colorant (F) - based on the total weight of the colorant (F) - contains 0.1 to 50.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 35.0 wt.%, more preferably 1.0 to 20.0 wt.% and particularly preferably 1.5 to 15.0 wt.% water.

[0171] Cosmetic carrier of the colorant (F)

[0172] Due to the above-described water content of the colorant, which is preferably in the medium to low range, the main component of the cosmetic carrier, in which components (f1) and (f2) of the colorant are present, is preferably non-aqueous. The cosmetic carrier is preferably a solvent and / or a polyethylene glycol.

[0173] Suitable solvents include, for example, solvents from the group consisting of 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerin, phenoxyethanol, and benzyl alcohol. The use of 1,2-propylene glycol is particularly preferred.

[0174] A particularly preferred low-molecular-weight polyethylene glycol is PEG-8. PEG-8 contains an average of 8 ethylene glycol units (x1 = 8), has an average molecular weight of 400 g / mol, and bears the CAS number 25322-68-3. PEG-8 is also known as PEG 400 and is commercially available, for example, from APS.

[0175] Other suitable low-molecular-weight polyethylene glycols include PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-9, and PEG-10. Another suitable polyethylene glycol is PEG-32. PEG-32 contains 32 ethylene glycol units (x1 = 32), has an average molecular weight of 1500 g / mol, and has the CAS number 25322-68-3. PEG-32 is also known as PEG 1500 and can be purchased commercially, for example, from Clariant.

[0176] A particularly suitable medium-molecular-weight polyethylene glycol is PEG 6000, which is commercially available from National Starch (China). The molecular weight of PEG 6000 is between 6000 and 7500 g / mol, corresponding to a x3 value of 136 to 171. Other optional ingredients in the colorant (CF)

[0177] In addition to the components essential to the invention and preferred components already described, the coloring agent can also contain further optional ingredients, such as, for example: surfactants, anionic, non-ionic, zwitterionic and / or cationic polymers; structurants such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example lecithin and cephalins; perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins; fiber structure-improving active ingredients, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose; dyes for coloring the agent; anti-dandruff active ingredients such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazole; amino acids and oligopeptides; protein hydrolysates of animal and / or plant origin, as well as in the form of their fatty acid condensation products or optionally anionically or cationically modified derivatives; vegetable oils;Sunscreens and UV blockers; active ingredients such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, pantolactone, allantoin, pyrrolidinonecarboxylic acids and their salts and bisabolol; polyphenols, in particular hydroxycinnamic acids, 6,7-dihydroxycoumarins, hydroxybenzoic acids, catechins, tannins, leucoanthocyanidins, anthocyanidins, flavanones, flavones and flavonols; ceramides or pseudoceramides; vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors; plant extracts; fats and waxes such as fatty alcohols, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins; swelling and penetrating agents such as glycerin, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates; opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers; Pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate; as well as propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N2O, dimethyl ether, CO2, and air.

[0178] The skilled person will select these additional substances based on the desired properties of the product. Regarding further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the skilled person. The additional active ingredients and excipients are preferably used in the preparations according to the invention in amounts of 0.0001 to 25 wt. %, in particular 0.0005 to 15 wt. %, based on the total weight of the respective product. Application of the colorant (F)

[0179] The previously described colorant (F) is first applied to the hair, which can be wet or dry. The colorant can be applied, for example, with a gloved hand or with the aid of a brush, applicator, or applicette.

[0180] After application, the colorant is preferably allowed to work on the hair. A major advantage of the coloring system according to the invention is that an intense color result can be achieved even after very short exposure times. For this reason, it is advantageous if the colorant remains on the keratin material for only a comparatively short period of time after application, ranging from 30 seconds to 15 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, and particularly preferably from 1 to 5 minutes.

[0181] The dye is then preferably rinsed or washed out of the hair, preferably with water without the aid of shampoo and without the use of any other cosmetic or surfactant formulation.

[0182] Within the scope of a further preferred embodiment, an inventive

[0183] Procedure characterized by the following steps in the specified order:

[0184] (1 a) Applying the dye to the hair,

[0185] (lb) exposure to the dye for a period of 1 to 30 minutes, preferably 1 to 5 minutes,

[0186] (lc) Rinsing the dye with water, and the

[0187] (2) Irradiation of the hair for a period of 1 to 60 minutes with UVA / IS radiation in the wavelength range of 200 to 800 nm.

[0188] In principle, hair irradiation can be performed at different times. Coloring and irradiation do not necessarily have to be performed immediately one after the other, and there can be a period of several hours between coloring step (1) (or coloring steps (1a), (1b), and (1c)) and irradiation (2). For example, it is possible to first color and dry the hair, and then perform the irradiation on the dried hair.

[0189] However, particularly good curing of the aminosilicone and pigment-containing film was achieved when irradiation (2) followed immediately after the dyeing step (1). The greatest improvement in washfastness was achieved when the still-damp hair was irradiated with an artificial radiation source immediately after dyeing. Therefore, a process characterized by the following steps in the given order is explicitly preferred:

[0190] (1 a) Applying the dye to the hair,

[0191] (1 b) exposure to the dye for a period of 1 to 30 minutes, preferably 1 to 5 minutes,

[0192] (1 c) Rinsing the dye with water,

[0193] (2) Irradiation of the hair, preferably of the still damp hair, for 1 to 60 minutes with an artificial light source which emits UVA / IS radiation in the wavelength range from 200 to 800 nm, wherein between steps (1 c) and (2) there is a period of a maximum of 72 hours, preferably a maximum of 48 hours, more preferably a maximum of 24 hours, even more preferably a maximum of 2 hours and most preferably a maximum of 15 minutes.

[0194] Damp hair refers to hair from which the dye has been rinsed with water and then rubbed dry with a towel. Hair with this level of moisture (still damp, but no longer dripping wet) is also referred to as towel-dried or towel-damp hair.

[0195] Irradiation of the hair

[0196] In step (2) of the method according to the invention, the hair dyed in step (1) is irradiated with UVA / UVB radiation in the wavelength range of 200 to 800 nm for a period of 1 to 60 minutes. Irradiation within the meaning of the invention refers to irradiation with an artificial light source that emits light in the wavelength range of 200 to 800 nm. Therefore, exposure of a person with dyed hair to daylight conditions is not considered irradiation within the meaning of the invention.

[0197] In other words, the first subject of the invention is a method for dyeing human hair, comprising

[0198] (1) Application of a dye (F) to the hair which contains

[0199] (f1) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer, and

[0200] (f2) at least one pigment, and the

[0201] (2) Irradiation of the hair treated in step (1) with an artificial light source for a period of 1 to 60 minutes with UV / VIS radiation in the wavelength range from 200 to 800 nm.

[0202] Or in other words, the first subject of the invention is a method for dyeing human hair, comprising

[0203] (1) Application of a dye (F) to the hair which contains

[0204] (f1) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer, and (f2) at least one pigment, and the

[0205] (2) Irradiating the hair treated in step (1) for a period of 1 to 60 minutes with an artificial light source, wherein the artificial light source emits UV / VIS radiation in the wavelength range from 200 to 800 nm.

[0206] UV / VIS radiation is electromagnetic radiation in the wavelength range from 200 nm to 800 nm, comprising the UV range (ultraviolet range) and the VIS range (visible range).

[0207] UV radiation (ultraviolet radiation) consists of electromagnetic waves with a wavelength of 380 to 10 nm or a frequency of approximately 790 THz to 30 MHz. The energy of a single photon ranges from approximately 3.3 eV (380 nm) to approximately 124 eV (10 nm).

[0208] The light visible to the human eye is the part of the electromagnetic spectrum with wavelengths between approximately 380 and 780 nm. Light with a wavelength of 800 nm is just visible.

[0209] In the method according to the invention, a colorant is applied to the hair to be treated and, if necessary, rinsed off. The hair is then irradiated with UV light and / or visible light. Since the head of the person being treated is exposed to UV light, the usual precautions for handling ultraviolet radiation must be observed. In particular, excessive irradiation should be avoided. In this case, methods according to the invention are preferred in which the treated hair is irradiated for 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 2 to 50 minutes, in particular 5 to 40 minutes, and especially 10 to 30 minutes following application of the agent.

[0210] In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized by the

[0211] (2) Irradiation of the hair for a period of 2 to 50 minutes, in particular 5 to 40 minutes and in particular 10 to 30 minutes, with an artificial light source emitting electromagnetic radiation with wavelengths in the range 200 to 800 nm.

[0212] Without being limited to this theory, it is suspected that irradiation of the dyed hair triggers chemical reactions that change the nature and / or chemical structure of the film of aminosilicones and pigments. One observation has been that the higher-energy components of the electromagnetic radiation, in particular, result in particularly rapid and effective curing of the film. As this film cures, its solubility is reduced, thus increasing its wash resistance. Even though the visible light already causes a certain degree of curing, this effect is particularly pronounced when using electromagnetic radiation with shorter wavelengths.For this reason, it has been found to be particularly preferable if the colored hair is irradiated with UV-A radiation with a wavelength of 400 nm - 320 nm, UV-B radiation with a wavelength of 320 nm - 280 nm and / or UV-C radiation with a wavelength of 280 nm - 200 nm.

[0213] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized by the

[0214] (2) Irradiation of the hair with UV-A radiation with a wavelength of 400 nm - 320 nm, UV-B radiation with a wavelength of 320 nm - 280 nm and / or UV-C radiation with a wavelength of 280 nm - 200 nm.

[0215] In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized by the

[0216] (2) Irradiation of the hair for a period of 2 to 50 minutes, in particular 5 to 40 minutes and in particular 10 to 30 with an artificial light source emitting UV-A radiation with a wavelength of 400 nm - 320 nm, UV-B radiation with a wavelength of 320 nm - 280 nm and / or UV-C radiation with a wavelength of 280 nm - 200 nm.

[0217] Various light sources are suitable for generating electromagnetic radiation, particularly the UV-A, UV-B, and UV-C radiation described above. For example, gas discharge tubes, gas discharge lamps, light-emitting diodes (LEDs), pulsed xenon lamps, and / or excimer lamps can be used to generate electromagnetic radiation in the desired wavelength range.

[0218] Within the scope of a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the irradiation (2) is carried out with the aid of a gas discharge tube, a gas discharge lamp, a light-emitting diode, a pulsed xenon lamp and / or an excimer lamp.

[0219] A gas discharge tube is an arrangement of a cathode and anode within a gas-filled glass tube in which, when a design-specific minimum voltage is applied, a gas discharge occurs with the emission of light. Gas discharge lamps or gas discharge tubes consist of a discharge vessel, usually made of glass (low-pressure lamps), quartz glass (high- and ultra-high-pressure lamps), or aluminum oxide ceramic (high-pressure lamps). The housing contains two electrodes between which an electric field is created, causing a gas discharge. Gas discharge lamps require a current limiter to operate, as otherwise the charge carrier density and current would rapidly increase due to impact ionization, leading to the destruction of the lamps. Current limitation is achieved by a resistor (neon lamps), a choke, or an electronic ballast.The discharge bulb can be filled with a gas or gas mixture, but can also contain substances that only become active at a later time through evaporation. At room temperature, these gases exert a low pressure in the bulb, which promotes the ignition of the discharge through impact ionization and thus the generation of a plasma. Filling with gas mixtures determines the properties of the discharge or serves the sole purpose of providing sufficient heat to evaporate the substance intended for the actual plasma. The resulting temperatures vaporize a supply of the plasma-forming material contained in the bulb, thus increasing the pressure in the discharge chamber.

[0220] The plasma-forming substances are metals or their vapors (such as sodium or mercury), which always contain noble gases for ignition, or pure noble gases (such as xenon, krypton and neon) or mixtures of halogens and metals (metal halide lamps).

[0221] High-pressure gas discharge tubes or lamps are also known as HID lamps (high intensity discharge). Their current and luminance levels are significantly higher than those of low-pressure plasmas, and the discharge operates in the range of an arc or arc discharge.

[0222] A particularly suitable gas discharge lamp is the mercury vapor lamp. In addition to mercury, which is partially in gaseous form due to its low vapor pressure even at room temperature, the mercury vapor lamp also contains a noble gas (usually argon) to facilitate ignition.

[0223] The low-pressure mercury vapor lamp is a widely used lamp type for generating UV-C radiation. The main emission, often more than 90 percent, is at a wavelength of 253.7 nm. Other wavelengths in the ultraviolet, visible, and infrared ranges are also emitted. The use of a low-pressure mercury vapor lamp for irradiating the colored hair in step (2) of the process according to the invention is particularly preferred.

[0224] Within the scope of a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the irradiation (2) is carried out with the aid of an artificial radiation source which converts at least 60% of its energy, preferably at least 70% of its energy, more preferably at least 80% of its energy and particularly preferably at least 85% of its energy into UV-C radiation with a wavelength of 250 nm to 260 nm. Within the scope of a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the irradiation (2) is carried out with the aid of a low-pressure mercury vapor lamp which converts at least 60% of its energy, preferably at least 70% of its energy, more preferably at least 80% of its energy and particularly preferably at least 85% of its energy into UV light with a wavelength of 250 nm to 260 nm, in particular with a wavelength of 253.7 nm.

[0225] A very suitable low-pressure mercury vapor discharge lamp is, for example, sold by Philips MSR under the name "Philips TUV PL-S 9W 2P G23 Germicidal". The lamp emits UV-C radiation with a peak value of 253.7 nm (UV-C).

[0226] The lamp's glass bulb filters out the ozone-forming 185 nm range.

[0227] Unlike low-pressure mercury lamps, high-pressure mercury lamps are not line emitters, but rather broadband UV-C emitters. This type of lamp is also a very intense and well-suited radiation source.

[0228] The group of gas discharge tubes or gas discharge lamps also includes fluorescent tubes, also known as cold cathode fluorescent lamps (CCFLs). These are gas discharge tubes whose electrodes ignite a glow discharge when a high voltage is applied. The extended positive column glows in different colors depending on the fill gas. The cathode is unheated and therefore emits hardly any thermal electrons. Emission occurs through secondary electron emission from positive ions accelerated by the cathode and colliding with the cathode.

[0229] A particularly suitable fluorescent tube can be found, for example, under the name

[0230] The "Sylvania Blacklight F15 15W T8 BL368 G13 fluorescent tube" from Sylvanio is available commercially. This lamp emits UV radiation in the 350-400 nm range, with a peak at 368 nm. This T8 tube has a total length of 437 mm and a diameter of 26 mm.

[0231] Within the scope of a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the irradiation (2) is carried out with the aid of an artificial radiation source which converts at least 60% of its energy, preferably at least 70% of its energy, more preferably at least 80% of its energy and particularly preferably at least 85% of its energy into UV-A radiation with a wavelength of 350 nm to 380 nm.

[0232] Within the scope of a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized in that the irradiation (2) is carried out with the aid of a fluorescent tube which converts at least 60% of its energy, preferably at least 70% of its energy, more preferably at least 80% of its energy and particularly preferably at least 85% of its energy into UV-A radiation with a wavelength of 350 nm - 380 nm, in particular with a wavelength of 368 nm.

[0233] Other suitable radiation sources include pulsed xenon lamps, excimer lamps, and light-emitting diodes (LEDs). Depending on the lamp type, these can emit very specific wavelengths in the UV-C range or additional wavelengths in the visible and infrared ranges. The emitted wavelength range can be limited if necessary by using so-called optical filters.

[0234] Pulsed xenon lamps emit a short, broad-spectrum pulse spanning the ultraviolet, visible, and infrared wavelength ranges. By filtering the spectrum, these lamps emit primarily UV-C radiation.

[0235] An excimer lamp is also known as a far-UVC lamp. This is a quasi-monochromatic light source, meaning it emits UV-C radiation in narrow bands of a specific wavelength. For example, a krypton-chlorine excimer lamp emits UV-C radiation at 222 nm.

[0236] Following step (2) of the method according to the invention, further steps such as post-treatment with a conditioner or a leave-on after-treatment product may optionally follow. Drying the hair after step (2) is also in accordance with the invention. For example, if the hair is not yet completely dry due to the irradiation (2), it can also be dried with the aid of an external heat source such as a hairdryer.

[0237] Examples

[0238] 1 . Formulations

[0239] The following formulation was prepared (all data in wt.% unless otherwise stated).

[0240] 2. Application

[0241] Strands of hair (Kerling company, type “Euronatur-haar white”) were measured colorimetrically.

[0242] Then, the ready-to-use dye F was applied to the hair strands (liquor ratio: 1 g of dye per 1 g of hair strand) and left on for three minutes. The hair strands were then thoroughly rinsed with water (1 minute). The strands were then towel-dried.

[0243] Immediately after coloring, the still damp hair strands were placed under a UV analysis lamp with two radiation sources.

[0244] The first radiation source is a low-pressure mercury vapor discharge lamp. This lamp emits UV-C radiation with a peak value of 253.7 nm (UV-C). At least 85% of this lamp's energy is converted into UV light with a wavelength of 253.7 nm.

[0245] The second radiation source was a fluorescent tube emitting UV radiation in the 350-400 nm range, with a maximum at 368 nm. Both radiation sources were switched on, and the dyed hair strands were irradiated with the light from both sources for 20 minutes. The hair strands were then colorimetrically measured again.

[0246] The dyed strands used for comparison were colorimetrically measured without irradiation and used in the washfastness tests.

[0247] 3. Wash fastness

[0248] To measure wash fastness, the strands were then washed 3 times or 10 times.

[0249] For each hair wash, a commercially available shampoo (0.25 g of Schauma 7 Herbs shampoo per 1 g of hair) was applied to the strand and massaged in with the fingers for 30 seconds. The shampoo was then rinsed out under lukewarm running water for 1 minute, and the strand was dried. The previously described procedure corresponds to one hair wash. The process was repeated for each subsequent hair wash. The hair washed in this way was colorimetrically measured.

[0250] The dE value used to assess color retention is calculated from the L*a*b* color values ​​measured on the respective strand as follows: dE = [ (Li - Lo) 2 + (ai - ao) 2 + (bi - bo)] 1 / 2

[0251] Lo, ao and bo = measurements of the uncolored strand

[0252] Li, ai and bi = measured values ​​of the dyed or dyed and washed strand

[0253] The lower the dE value, the smaller the color difference between the uncolored and colored (or colored and washed) hair. The higher the dE value, the greater the color difference compared to the uncolored strand.

[0254] The dL value used to assess the brightness is calculated from the L value measured on the respective strand as follows: dL = [(Li - Lo) 2 ] 1 / 2

[0255] Lo = measured value of the uncolored strand

[0256] Li = measured value of the dyed or dyed and washed strand

[0257] The higher the dL value, the greater the difference in brightness compared to the uncolored strand.

[0258] The following color results were obtained

[0259] Immediately after coloring (0 hair washes), the comparison strand and the irradiated strand showed essentially the same color difference to the uncolored hair, i.e. both strands were colored with the same high color intensity.

[0260] However, after 3 washes and after 10 washes, the irradiated strand of hair had a significantly greater color difference to the uncolored hair, which means that the washfastness of the colored strand was massively improved by the irradiation.

[0261] Immediately after coloring (0 hair washes), the comparison strand and the irradiated strand had essentially the same brightness difference to the uncolored hair.

[0262] However, after three and ten washes, the irradiated strand of hair showed a significantly greater difference in brightness compared to the uncolored hair. The improvement in the washfastness of the colored strand due to irradiation was therefore also reflected in the dL values.

Claims

Patent claims 1. Methods for dyeing human hair, comprising the (1) Application of a coloring agent (F) to the hair which contains (f1) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer, and (f2) at least one pigment, and the (2) Irradiation of the hair treated in step (1) for a period of 1 to 60 minutes with UV / VIS radiation in the wavelength range of 200 to 800 nm.

2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the dye (F) contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (f1) comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (Si-Amino), -Amino) where ALK1 and ALK2 independently represent a linear or branched, divalent Ci-C2o alkylene group.

3. Method according to one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the dye (F) contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (f1) comprising structural units of formula (Si-I) and formula (Si-Il) A method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the dye (F) contains, based on the total weight of the dye (F), one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers (f1) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 10 wt.%, more preferably 0.3 to 5 wt.%, even more preferably 0.4 to 3.5 wt.%, and most preferably 0.5 to 2.0 wt.%. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the dye (F) contains at least one inorganic pigment (f2), wherein the inorganic pigment is preferably selected from the group consisting of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments, and / or colored pigments based on mica or micaceous oxide, which are coated with at least one metal oxide and / or one metal oxychloride.A method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the coloring agent (F) contains at least one organic pigment (f2), wherein the organic pigment is preferably selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, and orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the dye (F) contains at least one pigment (f2) selected from the group consisting of pigments based on a lamellar substrate platelet, pigments based on a lenticular substrate platelet, and vacuum metallized pigments. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the dye (F) contains, based on the total weight of the dye (F), one or more pigments (f2) in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.2 to 2.5 wt.%, and most preferably 0.25 to 1.5 wt.%. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized by the following steps in the specified order: (1 a) Applying the dye to the hair, (1 b) Exposing the dye to the dye for a period of 1 to 30 minutes, preferably 1 to 5 minutes, (1 c) Rinsing off the dye with water, (2) Irradiation of the hair, preferably still damp hair, for 1 to 60 minutes with an artificial light source emitting UVA / IS radiation in the wavelength range of 200 to 800 nm, wherein a period of at most 72 hours, preferably at most 48 hours, more preferably at most 24 hours, even more preferably at most 2 hours, and most preferably at most 15 minutes, occupies the space between steps (1c) and (2). Method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized by the (2) Irradiation of the hair for a period of 2 to 50 minutes, in particular 5 to 40 minutes and in particular 10 to 30 minutes, with an artificial light source emitting electromagnetic radiation with wavelengths in the range of 200 to 800 nm. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized by the (2) Irradiation of the hair with UV-A radiation with a wavelength of 400 nm - 320 nm, UV-B radiation with a wavelength of 320 nm - 280 nm and / or UV-C radiation with a wavelength of 280 nm - 200 nm. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the irradiation (2) is carried out using a gas discharge tube, a gas discharge lamp, a light The irradiation (2) is carried out using an emitting diode, a pulsed xenon lamp, and / or an excimer lamp. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the irradiation (2) is carried out using an artificial radiation source that converts at least 60%, preferably at least 70%, more preferably at least 80%, and particularly preferably at least 85% of its energy into UV-C radiation with a wavelength of 250 nm to 260 nm. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the irradiation (2) is carried out using an artificial radiation source that converts at least 60%, preferably at least 70%, more preferably at least 80%, and particularly preferably at least 85% of its energy into UV-A radiation with a wavelength of 350 nm to 380 nm.

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