Preparation for dyeing keratinous material, in particular human hair, containing at least one aminosilicone, a pigment and a substance adsorbing sebum
Patent Information
- Application Number
- EP2023700691
- Authority / Receiving Office
- EP · EP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2022-04-12
- Filing Date
- 2023-01-10
- Publication Date
- 2025-02-19
AI Technical Summary
Current hair coloring methods, particularly oxidative dyes, result in long-lasting but damaging hair color with unpleasant odors and significant hair damage, while pigment-based systems offer minimal damage but suffer from low durability and undesirable hair feel.
A coloring agent comprising amino-functionalized silicone polymers, pigments, and sebum-adsorbing substances is applied to the hair, forming a homogeneous film that enhances color intensity and durability while maintaining a natural hair feel.
The agent achieves high color intensity with improved wash-fastness and a natural, soft hair feel, allowing for long-lasting color without the drawbacks of oxidative dyes, such as damage and odor.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] Agent for coloring keratinic material, in particular human hair, containing at least one aminosilicone, a pigment and a sebum-adsorbing substance
[0002] The present application relates to an agent for coloring keratinic material, in particular human hair, which contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1), at least one pigment (a2) and at least one sebum-adsorbing substance (a3).
[0003] Another subject of this application is a method for dyeing keratinic material, in particular human hair, wherein the agent described above is applied to the keratinic material and optionally rinsed out again after a contact time of 30 seconds to 45 minutes.
[0004] Altering the shape and color of keratinous material, especially human hair, represents an important area of modern cosmetics. Depending on the coloring requirements, hair coloring specialists are familiar with various coloring systems. For permanent, intense colorings with good fastness properties and good gray coverage, oxidation dyes are typically used. Such dyes contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components, and coupler components, which, under the influence of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, form the actual dyes. Oxidation dyes are characterized by very long-lasting coloring results.
[0005] When using direct dyes, the fully formed pigments diffuse from the dyeing agent into the hair fiber. Compared to oxidative hair coloring, the colors obtained with direct dyes are less durable and wash out more quickly. Colorations with direct dyes typically remain on the hair for between 5 and 20 washes.
[0006] The use of color pigments is known for temporary color changes on hair and / or skin. Color pigments are generally understood to be insoluble, color-imparting substances. These are present undissolved in the form of small particles in the coloring formulation and are deposited only externally on the hair fibers and / or the skin surface. Therefore, they can usually be removed completely after several washes with surfactant-containing cleansers. Various products of this type are available on the market under the name hair mascara. If the user desires particularly long-lasting coloring, the use of oxidative colorants has so far been the only option. However, despite numerous optimization attempts, an unpleasant ammonia or amine odor cannot be completely avoided with oxidative hair coloring.The hair damage still associated with the use of oxidative colorants also has a detrimental effect on the user's hair. Therefore, the search for alternative, high-performance coloring methods remains a challenge. One possible alternative coloring system that has recently gained increasing attention is based on the use of colored pigments.
[0007] Coloring with pigments offers several significant advantages. Because the pigments only attach to the keratin fibers, especially the hair fibers, from the outside, the damage associated with the coloring process is extremely minimal. Furthermore, unwanted coloring can be removed quickly and easily without leaving any residue, thus offering the user the opportunity to return to their original hair color immediately and without great effort. This coloring process is therefore particularly attractive for consumers who do not want to recolor their hair regularly.
[0008] Recent work has addressed the problem of the short durability of this coloring system. In this context, it was found that the washfastness of the color results obtained with pigments could be significantly improved by combining the pigments with certain amino-functionalized silicone polymers. Furthermore, by selecting particularly suitable pigments and pigment concentrations, a lighter color result could be achieved on dark hair, so that this coloring system even made it possible to lighten hair, which was previously only possible with oxidative hair treatments (bleaches or bleaching agents).
[0009] Despite these many advantages, the pigment-based coloring system still has some disadvantages. Since both the pigments and the aminosilicones that immobilize the pigments are deposited on the surface of the hair fiber, their surface structure is modified by the formation of a film. Depending on the thickness of the film formed, this modification can also be associated with a change in the tactile impression of the hair fibers, ranging from the feeling of heavy or greasy hair to a rough, shaggy, or straw-like feel.
[0010] The objective of the present invention was to provide a pigment-based coloring system that enables intense color results while maintaining a pleasant hair feel. The research was carried out to find a technology that would allow colored pigments to be fixed to the hair as permanently as possible without making the hair feel heavy, greasy, unnatural, straw-like, coated, or sticky. A particular focus of the task was to achieve intense, true-to-life color results while maintaining a pleasant hair feel.
[0011] Surprisingly, it has now been found that the above-mentioned object can be excellently achieved if keratinic material, in particular human hair, is dyed with an agent which, in addition to the amino-functionalized silicone polymer(s) (a1) and the pigment(s) (a2), contains at least one sebum-adsorbing substance (a3).
[0012] A first subject of the present invention is an agent for coloring keratinic material, in particular human hair, containing
[0013] (a1) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer, and
[0014] (a2) at least one pigment, and
[0015] (a3) at least one sebum adsorbing substance.
[0016] The work leading to this invention has shown that the combined use of aminosilicone (a1), pigment (a2) and the sebum adsorbing substance (a3) in a colorant enables coloring with high color intensities while simultaneously providing a good and natural hair feel.
[0017] Keratin material
[0018] Keratinous material includes hair, skin, and nails (such as fingernails and / or toenails). Wool, fur, and feathers also fall under the definition of keratinous material.
[0019] Keratin material is preferably understood to mean human hair, human skin, and human nails, especially fingernails and toenails. Keratin material is most preferably understood to mean human hair.
[0020] Coloring agents
[0021] In the context of this invention, the term "coloring agent" refers to the coloring of keratin material, particularly hair, caused by the use of pigments. During this coloring, the pigments, as color-imparting compounds, are deposited in a particularly homogeneous and uniform film on the surface of the keratin material.
[0022] According to the invention, the colorant is a ready-to-use agent. This ready-to-use agent can, for example, be filled into a container and applied in this form to the keratin material without further dilution, mixing, or other processing steps. For reasons of storage stability, it may also prove preferable if the ready-to-use cosmetic agent is prepared by the hairdresser or user shortly before application. To produce the ready-to-use agent, for example, a mixture of two different agents can be prepared, one of which contains the aminosilicone(s) (a1) and another agent contains the pigment(s) (a2) and the sebum-adsorbing substance(s) (a3).
[0023] However, it is equally conceivable that the ready-to-use agent is produced by blending at least three different agents, one of which contains at least one aminosilicone (a1), another contains at least one pigment (a2), and yet another contains at least one sebum-adsorbing substance (a3). Mixing the agents can be achieved, for example, by shaking, thus ensuring a particularly uniform distribution of the dispersed pigments.
[0024] Improve grip feeling
[0025] An improvement in the feel means that the colored keratin fibers, especially human hair, leave a more natural and softer impression when touched, and that the colored keratin fibers or colored hair feel less heavy, greasy, oily, unnatural, straw-like, rough, or coated. Individual hair fibers can also be separated more easily and do not stick together.
[0026] The feel is a sensory impression that can be perceived by experienced individuals, such as hairdressers. The improvement in the feel of a strand of hair can be determined, for example, by a hairdresser or even an experienced user by feeling or touching two different strands and thus determining which of the two strands feels better, i.e., which of the two strands has a less greasy, oily, sticky, coated, rough, or straw-like appearance. Amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1)
[0027] As the first ingredient essential to the invention, the agent according to the invention contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1). The amino-functionalized silicone polymer can alternatively also be referred to as aminosilicone or amodimethicone.
[0028] Silicone polymers are generally macromolecules having a molecular weight of at least 500 g / mol, preferably at least 1000 g / mol, more preferably at least 2500 g / mol, particularly preferably at least 5000 g / mol, which comprise repeating organic units.
[0029] The maximum molecular weight of the silicone polymer depends on the degree of polymerization (number of polymerized monomers) and the batch size, and is also determined by the polymerization method. For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferred if the maximum molecular weight of the silicone polymer is not more than 10 7 g / mol, preferably not more than 10 e g / mol and particularly preferably not more than 10 5 g / mol.
[0030] Silicone polymers comprise numerous Si-O repeating units, where the Si atoms may carry organic residues such as alkyl or substituted alkyl groups. A silicone polymer is therefore also referred to as polydimethylsiloxane.
[0031] In accordance with the high molecular weight of the silicone polymers, these are based on more than 10 Si-O repeating units, preferably more than 50 Si-O repeating units and particularly preferably more than 100 Si-O repeating units, most preferably more than 500 Si-O repeating units.
[0032] An amino-functionalized silicone polymer is a functionalized silicone that carries at least one structural unit with an amino group. The amino-functionalized silicone polymer preferably carries multiple structural units, each with at least one amino group. An amino group is defined as a primary amino group, a secondary amino group, and a tertiary amino group. All of these amino groups can be protonated in an acidic environment and are then present in their cationic form.
[0033] In principle, good results could be achieved with amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1) if they contain at least one primary, at least one secondary, and / or at least one tertiary amino group. However, colorations with the highest color intensity were observed when an amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) containing at least one secondary amino group was used in the product.
[0034] In a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it
[0035] (a1) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer having at least one secondary amino group.
[0036] The secondary amino group(s) can be located at various positions on the amino-functionalized silicone polymer. Particularly good results were found when using an amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) that has at least one, preferably several, structural units of the formula (Si-amino). -Amino)
[0037] In the structural units of the formula (Si-amino), the abbreviations ALK1 and ALK2 independently represent a linear or branched, divalent Ci-C2o-alkylene group.
[0038] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that the agent contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) which comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (Si-Amino), -Amino) where
[0039] ALK1 and ALK2 independently represent a linear or branched, divalent Ci-C2o-alkylene group.
[0040] The positions marked with an asterisk (*) indicate the bond to other structural units of the silicone polymer. For example, the silicon atom adjacent to the star can be bonded to another oxygen atom, and the oxygen atom adjacent to the star can be bonded to another silicon atom or to a C1-C8 alkyl group.
[0041] A divalent Ci-C2o-alkylene group can alternatively be referred to as a divalent or divalent Ci-C2o-alkylene group, which means that each group ALK1 or AK2 can form two bonds.
[0042] In the case of ALK1, one bond is from the silicon atom to the ALK1 group, and the second bond is between ALK1 and the secondary amino group.
[0043] In the case of ALK2, one bond is formed from the secondary amino group to the ALK2 moiety, and the second bond is formed between ALK2 and the primary amino group.
[0044] Examples of linear divalent C1-C2o alkylene groups include the methylene group (-CH2-), the ethylene group (-CH2-CH2-), the propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-), and the butylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-). The propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-) is particularly preferred. From a chain length of 3 carbon atoms, divalent alkylene groups can also be branched. Examples of branched, divalent C3-C2o alkylene groups are (-CH2-CH(CH3)-) and (-CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2-).
[0045] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the structural units of the formula (Si-amino) represent repeating units in the amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1), so that the silicone polymer comprises several structural units of the formula (Si-amino).
[0046] Particularly suitable amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1) with at least one secondary amino group are listed below.
[0047] Colorations with the highest color intensities could be obtained when an agent was applied to the keratinic material containing at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) comprising structural units of the formula (Si-I) and the formula (Si-II)
[0048] (Si-Il).
[0049] In a further explicitly particularly preferred embodiment, an inventive
[0050] Agent characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) which comprises structural units of the formula (Si-I) and the formula (Si-II)
[0051] An example of a corresponding amino-functionalized silicone polymer with the structural units (Si-I) and (Si-II) is the commercial product DC 2-8566 or Dowsil 2-8566 Amino Fluid, which is marketed by the Dow Chemical Company and is named "Siloxanes and Silicones, 3-[(2-Aminoethyl)amino]-2-methylpropyl Me, Di-Me-Siloxane" and has the CAS number 106842-44-8. Another amino-functionalized silicone polymer with the structural units (Si-I) and (Si-II) is the commercial product DOWSIL™ AP-8568 Amino Fluid, which is also marketed by the Dow Chemical Company.
[0052] In a further suitable embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) of the formula (Si-III), where m and n are numbers chosen so that the sum (n + m) is in the range from 1 to 1000, n is a number in the range from 0 to 999 and m is a number in the range from 1 to 1000,
[0053] R1, R2 and R3, which are the same or different, represent a hydroxy group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, wherein at least one of the groups R1 to R3 represents a hydroxy group;
[0054] Further agents suitable according to the invention are characterized by their content of at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) of the formula (Si-IV), in which p and q are numbers chosen so that the sum (p + q) is in the range 1 to 1000, p is a number in the range 0 to 999 and q is a number in the range 1 to 1000,
[0055] R1 and R2, which are different, represent a hydroxy group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, wherein at least one of the groups R1 to R2 represents a hydroxy group.
[0056] The silicones of formulas (Si-III) and (Si-IV) differ in the grouping at the Si atom that carries the nitrogen-containing group: In formula (Si-III), R2 represents a hydroxyl group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, while the residue in formula (Si-IV) is a methyl group. The individual Si groups, which are designated by the indices m and n or p and q, do not necessarily have to be present as blocks; rather, the individual units can also be randomly distributed, i.e., in formulas (Si-III) and (Si-IV), not every R1-Si(CH3)2 group is necessarily bonded to a -[O-Si(CH3)2]- group.
[0057] Inventive compounds have also proven to be suitable with regard to the desired effects.
[0058] Agents which contain at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) of the formula
[0059] Formula (Si-V) contain in the
[0060] A represents a group -OH, -O-Si(CH3)3,-O-Si(CH3)2OH,-O-Si(CH3)2OCH3,
[0061] D represents a group -H, -Si(CH3)3, -Si(CH3)2OH, -Si(CH3)2OCH3, b, n and c represent integers between 0 and 1000, with the provisos
[0062] - n > 0 and b + c > 0
[0063] - at least one of the conditions A = -OH or D = -H is fulfilled.
[0064] In the above-mentioned formula (Si-V), the individual siloxane units with the indices b, c and n are statistically distributed, ie they do not necessarily have to be block copolymers.
[0065] The agent (a) may further comprise one or more different amino-functionalized silicone polymers which are described by the formula (Si-VI) M (Ra Q bS i 0 (4-ab) / 2)x(R cS i 0 (4-c) / 2)y M (Si-VI), where in the above formula R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R 1 HZ is, where R 1is a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z, composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms, or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and Z is an organic amino-functional radical containing at least one amino-functional group; "a" takes on values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" takes on values in the range of about 1 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3, and x is a number in the range of 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number in the range of about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group as known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy.Non-limiting examples of the radicals represented by R include alkyl radicals such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl, and the like; alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, and the like; phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl, and the like; and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl, and the like; preferably, R is an alkyl radical containing 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably, R is methyl. Examples of R 1include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH2CH2SCH2CH2-, -CH2CH2OCH2-, -OCH2CH2-, -OCH2CH2CH2-, -CH2CH(CH3)C(O)OCH2-, -(CH2)3CC(O)OCH2CH2-, -C6H4C6H4-, -C6H4CH2C6H4-; and -(CH2)3C(O)SCH2CH2-.
[0066] Z is an organic, amino-functional residue containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for Z is NH(CH2) Z NH2, where z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is -NH(CH2) Z (CH2) ZZ NH, where both z and zz are independently 1 or more, this structure including diamino ring structures such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably a -NHCH2CH2NH2- radical. Another possible formula for Z is -N(CH2) Z (CH2) ZZ NX2 or -NX2, wherein each X of X2 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.
[0067] Q is most preferably a polar, amine-functional radical of the formula -CH2CH2CH2NHCH2CH2NH2. In the formulas, "a" takes on values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" takes on values in the range of about 2 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3. The molar ratio of the R a Qb SiO(4- a -b) / 2 units to the R c SiO (4- C ) / 2 units is in the range of about 1:2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1:5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. When one or more silicones of the above formula are used, the various variable substituents in the above formula can be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone mixture.
[0068] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-VII),
[0069] R'aG3-a-Si(OSiG 2)n-(OSiG bR'2- b)mO-SiG3-a-R'a (Si-VII), where:
[0070] - G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH3, -CH3, -O-CH2CH3, -CH2CH3, -O-
[0071] CH2CH2CH3,-CH2CH2CH3, -O-CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)2, -O-CH2CH2CH2CH3, - CH2CH2CH2CH3, -O-CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -O-CH(CH3)CH2CH3, - CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -OC(CH3)3, -C(CH3)3 ;
[0072] - a stands for a number between 0 and 3, especially 0;
[0073] - b stands for a number between 0 and 1 , in particular 1 ,
[0074] - m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,
[0075] - R' is a monovalent radical selected from o -QN(R")-CH2-CH2-N(R")2 o -QN(R")2o -QN + (R")3A- o -QN + H(R")2A- o -QN + H2(R")A- o -QN(R")-CH2-CH2-N + R"H2A- , where each Q represents a chemical bond, -CH2-, -CH2-CH2-, -CH2CH2CH2-, -C(CH3)2- , -CH2CH2CH2CH2-, -CH2C(CH3)2-, -CH(CH3)CH2CH2-,
[0076] R" represents identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH2-CH(CH3)Ph, the C1-20-alkyl radicals, preferably -CH3, -CH2CH3, -CH2CH2CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH2CH2H3, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -C(CH3)3, and A represents an anion which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate. In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) of the formula (Si-VIIa),
[0077] (CH3)3Si-[O-Si(CH3)2]n[OSi(CH3)]m-OSi(CH3)3 (Si-Vlla),
[0078] CH2CH(CH3)CH2NH(CH2)2NH2 wherein m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.
[0079] According to the INCI declaration, these silicones are called trimethylsilylamodimethicones.
[0080] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-VIIb)
[0081] R-[Si(CH3)2-O]ni[Si(R)-O]m-[Si(CH3)2]n2-R (Si-Vllb),
[0082] (CH2)3NH(CH2)2NH2, wherein R is -OH, -O-CHs or a -CHs group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assuming values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assuming values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.
[0083] These amino-functionalized silicone polymers are referred to as amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.
[0084] Regardless of which amino-functional silicones are used, agents according to the invention are preferred which contain an amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) whose amine number is above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g, and in particular above 0.4 meq / g. The amine number represents the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g. Agents containing a specific 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone polymer (a1) are also suitable. This amino-functionalized silicone polymer comprises structural units of the formulas (S1-VIII) and (Si-IX).
[0085] Corresponding 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone polymers are described below.
[0086] A corresponding amino-functionalized silicone polymer is available under the name
[0087] Amodimethicone / Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane Copolymer known and in the form of the raw material
[0088] Belsil ADM 8301 E from Wacker is commercially available.
[0089] For example, a silicone containing structural units of the formulas (Si-VIII), (Si-IX) and (Si-X) can be used as a 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone. in which
[0090] R1 is -CH3, -OH, -OCH3, -O-CH2CH3, -O-CH2CH2CH3, or -O-CH(CH3)2;
[0091] R2 stands for -CHs, -OH, or -OCHs.
[0092] Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (Si-Xl)
[0093]
[0094] (Si-Xl) in the
[0095] R1 represents -CH3, -OH, -OCH3, -O-CH2CH3, -O-CH2CH2CH3, or -O-CH(CH3)2;
[0096] R2 stands for -CH3, -OH, or -OCH3.
[0097] B represents a group -OH, -O-Si(CH3)3,-O-Si(CH3)2OH,-O-Si(CH3)2OCH3,
[0098] D stands for a group -H, -Si(CH3)3, -Si(CH3)2OH, -Si(CH3)2OCH3, a, b and c independently of one another stand for integers between 0 and 1000, with the proviso that a + b + c > 0 m and n independently of one another stand for integers between 1 and 1000, with the proviso that at least one of the conditions B = -OH or D = -H is met, the units a, b, c, m and n are distributed statistically or in blocks in the molecule.
[0099] Structural formula (Si-XI) is intended to clarify that the siloxane groups n and m do not necessarily have to be directly bonded to an end grouping B or D. Rather, in preferred formulas (Si-VI), a > 0 or b > 0, and in particularly preferred formulas (Si-VI), a > 0 and c > 0, i.e., the terminal grouping B or D is preferably bonded to a dimethylsiloxy grouping. In formula (Si-VI), the siloxane units a, b, c, m, and n are also preferably distributed randomly.
[0100] The silicones used according to the invention represented by formula (Si-VI) can be trimethylsilyl-terminated (D or B = -Si(CH3)3), but they can also be dimethylsilylhydroxy-terminated on two sides or dimethylsilylhydroxy- and dimethylsilylmethoxy-terminated on one side. Silicones particularly preferably used in the context of the present invention are selected from silicones in which
[0101] B = -O-Si(CH3)2OH and D = -Si(CH3)3
[0102] B = -O-Si(CH3)2OH and D = -Si(CH3)2OH
[0103] B = -O-Si(CH3)2OH and D = -Si(CH3)2OCH3
[0104] B = -O-Si(CH3)3 and D = -Si(CH3)2OH
[0105] B = -O-Si(CH3)2OCH3 and D = -Si(CH3)2OH. These silicones lead to exorbitant improvements in the properties of hair treated with the agents according to the invention and to significantly improved protection during oxidative treatment.
[0106] It has proven particularly advantageous if the agent according to the invention contains the amino-functionalized silicone polymer(s) (a1) in specific amounts. Particularly good results were obtained when the agent contained one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1) in a total amount of 0.1 to 8.0 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.3 to 3.0 wt.%, and most preferably 0.4 to 2.5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the agent.
[0107] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on the total weight of the agent - one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1) in a total amount of 0.1 to 8.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 0.3 to 3.0% by weight and most preferably 0.4 to 2.5% by weight.
[0108] Pigments (a2)
[0109] As a second essential component, the agent according to the invention contains at least one pigment (a2). Pigments within the meaning of the present invention are understood to be color-imparting compounds which, at 25°C, have a solubility in water of less than 0.5 g / L, preferably less than 0.1 g / L, and even more preferably less than 0.05 g / L. Water solubility can be determined, for example, using the method described below: 0.5 g of the pigment is weighed into a beaker. A stir bar is added. Then, one liter of distilled water is added. This mixture is heated to 25°C for one hour while stirring on a magnetic stirrer. If undissolved components of the pigment are still visible in the mixture after this period, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L.If the pigment-water mixture cannot be visually assessed due to the high intensity of the finely dispersed pigment, the mixture is filtered. If a portion of undissolved pigment remains on the filter paper, the pigment's solubility is below 0.5 g / L.
[0110] Suitable color pigments can be of inorganic and / or organic origin.
[0111] In a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one color-providing compound (a2) from the group of inorganic and / or organic pigments. Preferred color pigments are selected from synthetic or natural inorganic pigments. Inorganic color pigments of natural origin can be produced, for example, from chalk, ochre, umber, green earth, burnt sienna, or graphite. Furthermore, black pigments such as iron oxide black, colored pigments such as ultramarine or iron oxide red, as well as fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments can be used as inorganic color pigments.
[0112] Particularly suitable are colored metal oxides, hydroxides, and oxide hydrates, mixed-phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, chromates, and / or molybdates. Particularly preferred color pigments are black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510), and / or carmine (cochineal).
[0113] Also particularly preferred color pigments according to the invention are colored pearlescent pigments. These are typically based on mica and / or mica and can be coated with one or more metal oxides. Mica belongs to the class of layered silicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite, and margarite. To produce pearlescent pigments in combination with metal oxides, the mica, predominantly muscovite or phlogopite, is coated with a metal oxide.
[0114] As an alternative to natural mica, synthetic mica, optionally coated with one or more metal oxides, can also be used as a pearlescent pigment. Particularly preferred pearlescent pigments are based on natural or synthetic mica and coated with one or more of the aforementioned metal oxides. The color of the respective pigments can be varied by varying the layer thickness of the metal oxide(s).
[0115] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one inorganic pigment (a2), which is preferably selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or colored pigments based on mica or mica, which are coated with at least one metal oxide and / or one metal oxychloride.
[0116] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one color-providing compound (a2) from the group of pigments, which is selected from mica- or mica-based pigments coated with one or more metal oxides from the group of titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide (CI 77491, CI 77499), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), chromium oxide (CI 77288) and / or iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510).
[0117] Examples of particularly suitable color pigments are commercially available under the trade names Rona®, Colorona®, Xirona®, Dichrona® and Timiron® from Merck, Ariabel® and Unipure® from Sensient, Prestige® from Eckart Cosmetic Colors and Sunshine® from Sunstar.
[0118] Particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Colorona® are, for example:
[0119] Colorona Copper, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
[0120] Colorona Passion Orange, Merck, Mica, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Alumina
[0121] Colorona Patina Silver, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE)
[0122] Colorona RY, Merck, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 75470 (CARMINE)
[0123] Colorona Oriental Beige, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
[0124] Colorona Dark Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, FERRIC FERROCYANIDE
[0125] Colorona Chameleon, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA
[0126] Colorona Aborigine Amber, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE)
[0127] Colorona Blackstar Blue, Merck, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), MICA
[0128] Colorona Patagonian Purple, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM
[0129] DIOXIDE), CI 77510 (FERRIC FERROCYANIDE)
[0130] Colorona Red Brown, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE)
[0131] Colorona Russet, Merck, CI 77491 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 77891 (IRON OXIDES)
[0132] Colorona Imperial Red, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), D&C RED NO. 30 (CI 73360)
[0133] Colorona Majestic Green, Merck, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA, CI 77288 (CHROMIUM OXIDE GREENS)
[0134] Colorona Light Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), FERRIC FERROCYANIDE (Cl 77510)
[0135] Colorona Red Gold, Merck, MICA, Cl 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), Cl 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
[0136] Colorona Gold Plus MP 25, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (Cl 77891), IRON OXIDES (Cl 77491)
[0137] Colorona Carmine Red, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, CARMINE
[0138] Colorona Blackstar Green, Merck, MICA, Cl 77499 (IRON OXIDES)
[0139] Colorona Bordeaux, Merck, MICA, Cl 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
[0140] Colorona Bronze, Merck, MICA, Cl 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
[0141] Colorona Bronze Fine, Merck, MICA, Cl 77491 (IRON OXIDES) Colorona Fine Gold MP 20, Merck, MICA, Cl 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), Cl 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
[0142] Colorona Sienna Fine, Merck, Cl 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA
[0143] Colorona Sienna, Merck, MICA, Cl 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
[0144] Colorona Precious Gold, Merck, Mica, Cl 77891 (Titanium dioxide), Silica, Cl 77491 (Iron oxides), Tin oxide
[0145] Colorona Sun Gold Sparkle MP 29, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, IRON OXIDES, MICA, Cl 77891 , Cl 77491 (EU)
[0146] Colorona Mica Black, Merck, Cl 77499 (Iron oxides), Mica, Cl 77891 (Titanium dioxide) Colorona Bright Gold, Merck, Mica, Cl 77891 (Titanium dioxide), Cl 77491 (Iron oxides) Colorona Blackstar Gold, Merck, MICA, Cl 77499 (IRON OXIDES)
[0147] Weiterhin besonders bevorzugte Farbpigmente mit der Handelsbezeichnung Xirona® sind beispielsweise:
[0148] Xirona Golden Sky, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide
[0149] Xirona Caribbean Blue, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Silica, Tin Oxide
[0150] Xirona Kiwi Rose, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide
[0151] Xirona Magic Mauve, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide.
[0152] In addition, particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Unipure® are, for example:
[0153] Unipure Red LC 381 EM, Sensient CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Silica
[0154] Unipure Black LC 989 EM, Sensient, CI 77499 (Iron Oxides), Silica
[0155] Unipure Yellow LC 182 EM, Sensient, CI 77492 (Iron Oxides), Silica
[0156] In a further embodiment, the agent according to the invention may also contain one or more color-providing compounds (a2) from the group of organic pigments.
[0157] The organic pigments according to the invention are correspondingly insoluble, organic dyes or lakes which can be selected, for example, from the group of nitroso, nitro-azo, xanthene, anthraquinone, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyorrole, indigo, thioindido, dioxazine and / or triarylmethane compounds.
[0158] Particularly suitable organic pigments are, for example, carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 1 1725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the color index numbers Cl 12085, Cl 12120, Cl 12370, Cl 12420, Cl 12490, Cl 14700, Cl 15525, Cl 15580, Cl 15620, Cl 15630, Cl 15800, Cl 15850, Cl 15865, Cl 15880, Cl 17200, Cl 26100, Cl 45380, Cl 45410, Cl 58000, Cl 73360, Cl 73915 and / or Cl 75470.
[0159] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one organic pigment (a2), which is preferably selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.
[0160] The organic pigment can also be a colored lake. For the purposes of the invention, the term colored lake refers to particles comprising a layer of absorbed dyes, the particle-dye unit being insoluble under the aforementioned conditions. The particles can be, for example, inorganic substrates, which can be aluminum, silica, calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, or even aluminum.
[0161] Alizarin lake, for example, can be used as a colored varnish.
[0162] Pigments with a specific shape can also be used to color the keratin fibers. For example, a pigment based on a lamellar and / or lenticular substrate plate can be used. Furthermore, coloring based on a substrate plate containing a vacuum-metallized pigment is also possible.
[0163] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one pigment (a2) which is selected from the group of pigments based on a lamellar substrate platelet, pigments based on a lenticular substrate platelet and vacuum metallized pigments.
[0164] The substrate platelets of this type have an average thickness of at most 50 nm, preferably less than 30 nm, more preferably at most 25 nm, for example at most 20 nm. The average thickness of the substrate platelets is at least 1 nm, preferably at least 2.5 nm, more preferably at least 5 nm, for example at least 10 nm. Preferred ranges for the thickness of the substrate platelets are 2.5 to 50 nm, 5 to 50 nm, 10 to 50 nm; 2.5 to 30 nm, 5 to 30 nm, 10 to 30 nm; 2.5 to 25 nm, 5 to 25 nm, 10 to 25 nm, 2.5 to 20 nm, 5 to 20 nm and 10 to 20 nm. Preferably, each substrate platelet has a thickness that is as uniform as possible.
[0165] Due to the low thickness of the substrate platelets, the pigment has a particularly high covering power.
[0166] The substrate platelets are preferably monolithic in structure. Monolithic in this context means consisting of a single, closed unit without fractures, stratification, or inclusions, although structural changes may occur within the substrate platelets. The substrate platelets are preferably homogeneous in structure, meaning that no concentration gradient occurs within the platelets. In particular, the substrate platelets are not layered and do not contain any particles or particles distributed within them.
[0167] The size of the substrate platelet can be tailored to the specific application, especially the desired effect on the keratin material. Typically, the substrate platelets have an average diameter of approximately 2 to 200 pm, particularly approximately 5 to 100 pm.
[0168] In a preferred embodiment, the aspect ratio, expressed as the ratio of the average size to the average thickness, is at least 80, preferably at least 200, more preferably at least 500, and particularly preferably more than 750. The average size of the uncoated substrate platelets is understood to be the d50 value of the uncoated substrate platelets. Unless otherwise stated, the d50 value was determined using a Sympatec Heios device with Quixel wet dispersion. For sample preparation, the sample to be tested was predispersed in isopropanol for 3 minutes.
[0169] The substrate platelets can be made of any material that can be formed into platelets.
[0170] They can be of natural origin or synthetically produced. Materials from which the substrate platelets can be constructed include, for example, metals and metal alloys, metal oxides, preferably aluminum oxide, inorganic compounds and minerals such as mica and (semi-)precious stones, as well as plastics. The substrate platelets are preferably made of metal (alloys). Any metal suitable for metallic luster pigments can be considered as the metal. Such metals include iron and steel, as well as all air- and water-resistant (semi-)metals such as platinum, zinc, chromium, molybdenum and silicon, as well as their alloys such as aluminum bronze and brass. Preferred metals are aluminum, copper, silver and gold. Preferred substrate platelets are aluminum platelets and brass platelets, with aluminum substrate platelets being particularly preferred.
[0171] Lamellar substrate platelets are characterized by an irregularly structured edge and are also called "cornflakes" due to their appearance.
[0172] Due to their irregular structure, pigments based on lamellar substrate platelets generate a high degree of scattered light. Furthermore, pigments based on lamellar substrate platelets do not completely cover the existing color of a keratinous material, and effects similar to natural graying can be achieved, for example.
[0173] Lenticular (= lens-shaped) substrate platelets have a generally regular, round edge and are also called "silver dollars" due to their appearance. Due to their regular structure, the proportion of reflected light predominates in pigments based on lenticular substrate platelets.
[0174] Vacuum metallized pigments (VMPs) can be obtained, for example, by releasing metals, metal alloys, or metal oxides from appropriately coated foils. They are characterized by a particularly thin substrate platelet thickness in the range of 5 to 50 nm and a particularly smooth surface with increased reflectivity. Substrate platelets comprising a vacuum-metallized pigment are also referred to as VMP substrate platelets in this application. VMP substrate platelets made of aluminum can be obtained, for example, by releasing aluminum from metallized foils.
[0175] The substrate plates made of metal or metal alloy can be passivated, for example by anodizing (oxide layer) or chromating.
[0176] Uncoated lamellar, lenticular, and / or VPM substrate plates, especially those made of metal or metal alloy, reflect incident light to a high degree and produce a light-dark flop. These have proven particularly preferred for use in the colorant.
[0177] Suitable pigments based on a lamellar substrate platelet include, for example, the VISIONAIRE series of pigments from Eckart. Pigments based on a lenticular substrate platelet are available, for example, under the name Alegrace® Gorgeous from Schlenk Metallic Pigments GmbH.
[0178] Pigments based on a substrate platelet comprising a vacuum metallized pigment are available, for example, under the name Alegrace® Marvelous or Alegrace® Aurous from Schlenk Metallic Pigments GmbH.
[0179] In summary, within the scope of a further embodiment, a particularly preferred agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one
[0180] Pigment (a2) which is selected from the group of inorganic pigments, organic pigments, pigments based on a lamellar substrate platelet, pigments based on a lenticular substrate platelet and vacuum metallized pigments.
[0181] Due to their excellent light and temperature resistance, the use of the aforementioned pigments in the agent according to the invention is very particularly preferred. Furthermore, it is preferred if the pigments used have a specific particle size. It is therefore advantageous according to the invention if the at least one pigment has an average particle size D50 of 1.0 to 50 pm, preferably of 5.0 to 45 pm, more preferably of 10 to 40 pm, in particular of 14 to 30 pm. The average particle size D50 can be determined, for example, using dynamic light scattering (DLS).
[0182] The pigments (a2) are preferably used in the composition in specific quantity ranges. Particularly good results were obtained when the composition contained one or more pigments (a2) in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.2 to 2.5 wt.%, and most preferably 0.25 to 1.5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0183] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on the total weight of the agent - one or more pigments (a2) in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably from 0.2 to 2.5 wt.% and very particularly preferably from 0.25 to 1.5 wt.%.
[0184] Sebum adsorbing substance (a3)
[0185] As a third essential ingredient, the agent according to the invention contains at least one sebum-adsorbing substance (a3). The sebum-adsorbing substance can alternatively also be referred to as a sebum-adsorbing substance. A sebum-adsorbing substance is a compound that is capable of adsorbing, i.e., absorbing, the sebum or talc produced on the human scalp. The sebum accumulates on the surface or inside this substance. In the prior art, sebum-adsorbing substances are often described as active ingredients in dry shampoos.
[0186] The sebum-adsorbing substances can be used in various forms in the product according to the invention. The use of a sebum- or sebum-adsorbing powder has proven particularly advantageous.
[0187] Whether a powder is sebum-absorbing can be determined, for example, by its sebum absorption capacity. Sebum / sebum absorption corresponds to the amount of sebum adsorbed by the powder. It is expressed in ml of sebum per 100 g of powder, measured according to a method for determining the oil absorption of powders, as described, for example, in various state-of-the-art standards.
[0188] The oil absorption of the powder corresponds to the amount of sebum adsorbed on the available surface of the powder, which can be determined, for example, by measuring the "wet point" according to the following measuring method.
[0189] A quantity m (in grams) of powder is placed on a glass plate, the quantity depending on the density of the powder. Then, artificial tallow, which consists of 29% by weight triolein, 28.5% by weight oleic acid, 18.5% by weight oleyl oleate, 14% by weight squalene, 7% by weight cholesterol, and 3% by weight cholesterol palmitate, is added drop by drop. After adding 4 to 5 drops of the artificial tallow, it is mixed into the powder with a spatula, and the addition of artificial tallow is continued until a conglomerate of artificial tallow and powder forms. From this point on, the artificial tallow is added drop by drop, and the mixture is then mixed thoroughly with the spatula. The addition of artificial tallow is stopped when a firm, smooth paste has formed. This paste must be able to spread on the glass plate without cracking, i.e., the paste must be able to spread on the glass plate without cracks or lumps forming.The volume of artificial sebum required for this process in ml is noted and converted into the corresponding sebum absorption or sebum absorption in the unit ml / 100 g.
[0190] Highly suitable sebum-adsorbing powders are capable of a sebum absorption of at least 0.5 ml / 100 g, preferably at least 0.8 ml / 100 g. In another particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one sebum-adsorbing powder (a3).
[0191] The sebum-absorbing powder can be a mineral or organic powder, for example. A powder is a mixture of small particles that are solid at 25°C and normal pressure (1013 mbar).
[0192] The sebum adsorbing substance or sebum adsorbing powder can be selected from:
[0193] - Composite powders,
[0194] - Starches such as starch flours,
[0195] - modified starches such as starch octenylsuccinates and in particular aluminum starch octenylsuccinates, or starch phosphates such as distarch phosphate,
[0196] - Talc,
[0197] - Silica and silica,
[0198] - calcium silicates,
[0199] - Perlites
[0200] - zeolites,
[0201] - polylactic acids,
[0202] - polyamide powders (Nylon®),
[0203] - Acrylic polymer powders, in particular polymethyl methacrylate, poly(methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate), poly(allyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate), ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer,
[0204] - elastomeric silicone powders, and mixtures thereof.
[0205] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one sebum-adsorbing substance (a3) selected from the group consisting of composite powders, starches, modified starches, talc, silicic acids, silica, calcium silicates, perlites, zeolites, polylactic acids, polyamide powders and acrylic polymer powders.
[0206] The use of composite powders (a3) in the composition according to the invention has proven to be particularly well-suited for achieving the object of the invention. Therefore, compositions containing composite powders (a3) are most preferred.
[0207] Composites, also known as composite materials or compound materials, are materials made of two or more different materials combined, with the composite material possessing different properties than its individual components. A powder is also understood here as a mixture of small particles that are solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1013 mbar).
[0208] The composite powder in the sense of the present invention is a composite material made of at least two different materials in powder form at room temperature (25 °C).
[0209] Particularly suitable composite powders are extremely free-flowing, easily dispersible, and exhibit only a very low tendency to aggregate. They can be incorporated into cosmetic compositions without special equipment or specific processing steps. It is generally sufficient to stir the composite powders with the other ingredients. Composite powders whose powder particles have an average particle diameter of 0.5 to 100 μm, particularly preferably 1 to 10 μm, are preferred.
[0210] The at least two different materials of the composite powder can be, for example, organic and / or inorganic materials. For example, the composite powder can comprise an organic component (Compo-A) and an inorganic component (Compo-B).
[0211] Within the scope of a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it comprises, as sebum adsorbing substance (a3), at least one composite powder comprising an organic component (Compo-A) and an inorganic component (Compo-B).
[0212] Very particularly preferred is an agent for coloring keratinic material, in particular human hair, containing
[0213] (a1) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer, and
[0214] (a2) at least one pigment, and
[0215] (a3) at least one composite powder comprising an organic component (Compo-A) and an inorganic component (Compo-B).
[0216] For example, the composite powder may comprise powder particles of an organic polymer (Compo-A) and powder particles of an inorganic or mineral compound (Compo-B).
[0217] A highly suitable composite powder (a3) consists of powder particles of an organosilicone copolymer (Compo-A) and silicon dioxide particles (Compo-B). Within the scope of another particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one composite powder (a3) that comprises (Compo-A) particles of an organosilicone copolymer and (Compo-B) particles of silicon dioxide.
[0218] A particularly suitable composite powder (a3) consists (Compo-A) of powder particles of a silicone elastomer and (Compo-B) particles of silicon dioxide.
[0219] The powder particles of the silicone elastomer (Compo-A) can have various shapes, with spherical powder particles being preferred.
[0220] The silicon dioxide particles (Compo-B) are preferably immobilized on the surface of the silicone elastomer powder particles (Compo-A).
[0221] In a further preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it contains at least one composite powder (a3) comprising (Compo-A) particles of a silicone elastomer and (Compo-B) particles of silicon dioxide, wherein the particles of silicon dioxide (Compo-B) are immobilized on the surface of the particles of the silicone elastomer (Compo-A).
[0222] The powdered silicone elastomer (Compo-A) can preferably be prepared by reacting an organopolysiloxane (I) having at least two alkenyl groups per molecule with an organopolysiloxane (II) having at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to a silicon atom per molecule.
[0223] The organopolysiloxane (I) used, which has at least two alkenyl groups per molecule, is preferably a compound of formula (I)
[0224] R represents a Ci-C6 alkyl group or a C e-Ci0-aryl group,
[0225] Ri represents R or a C2-Ce-alkenyl group, R2 represents R or an alkenyl group, and m and n each independently represent an integer from 0 to 5000, with the proviso that if Ri does not represent a C2-Ce-alkenyl group, R2 represents a C2-Ce-alkenyl group and n is at least 2.
[0226] As organopolysiloxane (II) which has at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to a silicon atom per molecule, a compound of formula (II) is preferably used where
[0227] R represents a Ci-C6 alkyl group or a C6-Cio aryl group,
[0228] Rs stands for R or hydrogen,
[0229] R4 represents R or hydrogen, and s and t each independently represent an integer from 0 to 5000, with the proviso that if R3 is not hydrogen, R4 represents hydrogen and t is at least 2.
[0230] Examples of C1-C6 alkyl groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, and isopropyl, with methyl being preferred. Suitable C6-C10 aryl groups include phenyl and naphthyl, with phenyl being preferred. R in the above formulas is particularly preferably methyl.
[0231] As C2-C e Examples of alkenyl groups that can be mentioned are vinyl, allyl, propenyl, butenyl, pentenyl, and hexenyl. The alkenyl group is preferably vinyl. m, n, s, and t preferably each independently represent an integer from 0 to 1000, particularly preferably from 0 to 200.
[0232] The powdered silicone elastomer (Compo-A) is preferably a dimethicone-vinyl dimethicone copolymer, preferably a crosslinked dimethicone-vinyl dimethicone copolymer. The latter are known under the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer. The silicon dioxide particles (Compo-B) preferably have an average particle diameter of 0.001 to 0.1 pm.
[0233] The silicon dioxide (Compo-B) is preferably amorphous and can be produced using known methods, for example, in an electric arc, wet chemically, or by flame hydrolysis. The silicon dioxide (B) is preferably fumed silica.
[0234] To immobilize the silicon dioxide (Compo-B) on the powdered silicone elastomer (Compo-A), the latter can, for example, be converted into an aqueous dispersion to which the silicon dioxide (Compo-B) is added. The ratio can be freely selected within wide limits, although it is preferred to add 0.1 to 30 parts by weight of silicon dioxide (Compo-B) to 100 parts by weight of powdered silicone elastomer (Compo-A). The dispersion is heated, with the preferred temperature range being 40 to 95°C. Finally, the water is removed, thus obtaining the composite powder.
[0235] The commercial product Dow Corning 9701 Cosmetic Powder or DOWSIL 9701 Cosmetic Powder with the INCI name DimethiconeA / inyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Silica, marketed by Dow Corning, is particularly preferably used as the composite powder (a3).
[0236] Furthermore, the commercial product Dow Corning 9801 Cosmetic Powder or Dowsil EP 9801 Hydro Cosmetic Powder marketed by Dow Corning with the INCI name DimethiconeA / inyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, (and) Silica (and) Butylene Glycol is particularly preferably used as the composite powder (a3).
[0237] Within the scope of a particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it contains, as sebum-adsorbing substance (a3), a powder with the INCI name DimethiconeA / inyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Silica and / or a powder with the INCI name DimethiconeA / inyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Silica (and) Butylene Glycol.
[0238] Hair strands colored with products according to the invention containing DOWSIL 9701 Cosmetic Powder and / or Dowsil EP 9801 Hydro Cosmetic Powder (a3) felt particularly soft and natural. Individual hair fibers did not stick together. This natural hair feel was achieved without any loss of color intensity of the treated hair strands.
[0239] Furthermore, the sebum-absorbing powder can also be a powder coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent. The hydrophobic treatment agent can, for example, be selected from the group consisting of fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, the aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids such as aluminum dimyristate, the aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.
[0240] N-acylated amino acids can contain an acyl group with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, and cocoyl. The salts of these compounds can be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine.
[0241] Starch is a reserve carbohydrate stored by many plants in the form of starch granules, typically 1 to 200 μm in size, in various parts of the plant, such as tubers or roots, cereal seeds, fruits, and pith. Starch belongs to the homoglycan family and is a polycondensation product of D-glucose. Starch consists of three structurally different polymers of D-glucopyranose: amylose, amylopectin, and a so-called intermediate fraction.
[0242] A starch compound (a3) which can preferably be used according to the invention is selected from at least one - optionally modified - polycondensation product of D-glucose obtained from starch of rice, maize, potatoes, peas, acorns, chestnuts, barley, wheat, bananas, sago, millet, sorghum, oats, rye, beans, sweet potato, arrowroot or cassava.
[0243] In a further embodiment, the agent according to the invention can contain at least one starch compound (a3) from the group consisting of rice starch, corn starch, potato starch, and tapioca starch. Mixtures of the aforementioned starch compounds are also encompassed by the invention. Rice starch is particularly preferred as the starch compound. Starch compounds based on rice starch are available, for example, under the name Remy DR KA (INCI name: Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch, CAS number 9005-25-8) from Bene O Remy Industries or under the name Rice Starch DSA 7 (INCI name: Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch, Cetrimonium Chloride; CAS number 9005-25-8) from Agrana.
[0244] In a further embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it
[0245] (a3) at least one sebum-adsorbing substance selected from the group consisting of starches from rice, corn, potatoes, peas, acorns, chestnuts, barley, wheat, bananas, sago, millet, sorghum, oats, rye, beans, sweet potatoes, arrowroot, or cassava, most preferably from the group consisting of rice starch, corn starch, potato starch, tapioca starch, wheat starch, and cassava starch. A modified starch can also be used as the starch. A modified starch is a starch that has been modified by a process known to the person skilled in the art, such as esterification, etherification, oxidation, acid hydrolysis, crosslinking, or enzymatic conversion.
[0246] Non-limiting examples of modified starches are aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, sodium starch octenylsuccinate, sodium starch octenylsuccinate, calcium starch octenylsuccinate, starch phosphate, distarch phosphate, hydroxyethyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium carboxymethyl starch and sodium glycolate starch.
[0247] In another embodiment, the modified starch is a starch octenylsuccinate, especially aluminum starch octenylsuccinate. Aluminum Starch Octenyl Succinate is a starch modified with octenylsuccinic anhydride, which is present in the form of its aluminum salt. Aluminum Starch Octenyl Succinate has the CAS No. 9087-61-0 and is commercially available, for example, under the trade name Covafluid AMD from Sensient. Also of particular note is the product marketed commercially by AKZO NOBEL under the name DRY FLO PLUS.
[0248] Starch phosphates are starch derivatives belonging to the starch ester family. Monostarch phosphate is labeled E 1410, and distarch phosphate is labeled E 1412. Starch phosphate is produced by reacting starch with monosodium orthophosphate or disodium orthophosphate in a polymer-like reaction.
[0249] In starch monophosphate, the bond preferentially forms at the Ce atom of the glucose building block. This compound is formed, for example, by treating starch with monosodium orthophosphate or disodium orthophosphate, or alkali tripolyphosphates at pH 5.5-6 and 120-175 °C for 1-15 hours.
[0250] In distarch phosphate, the phosphate group forms a bridge between two starch chains. It is produced by reacting native starch in an aqueous suspension with sodium trimetaphosphate, phosphorus oxychloride, or phosphorus pentachloride in the presence of sodium chloride, sodium carbonate, or sodium hydroxide at a pH of 10-11. After the reaction, the pH is adjusted to between 4.5 and 6, then the product is washed with water and dried or converted into pregelatinized starch. The degree of substitution in distarch phosphate is approximately one order of magnitude lower than in starch monophosphate. Distarch phosphate has the INCI designation Distarch Phosphate and the CAS number 55963-33-2.
[0251] Distarch phosphate can be purchased commercially, for example, from Nippon Starch Chemical under the trade name PB 2000. Within the scope of a further embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it
[0252] (a3) contains at least one sebum adsorbing substance from the group of modified starches, preferably from the group of aluminum starch octenylsuccinate and starch phosphates.
[0253] Another sebum-adsorbing substance according to the invention is talc, talcum, or talc, preferably talcum with the INCI name Tale, E553b. Talc is a natural, widely used magnesium silicate Mg3[(OH)2 / Si4Gio] or 3MgO 4SiO2 H2O, which belongs to the three-layer (2:1) phyllosilicates, whose denser aggregates are called soapstone.
[0254] Further sebum-adsorbing substances (a3) according to the invention can be selected from the group of silicas. Both hydrophilic and hydrophobic silicas can be used.
[0255] Furthermore, it is also possible to use mixtures of at least one hydrophilic silica and at least one hydrophobic silica. It is particularly preferred if the hydrophobic silica(s) are present in excess of the hydrophilic silica(s). Hydrophobic:hydrophilic weight ratios of 0:1 to 10:1 are preferred, preferably 2:1 to 6:1, and particularly preferably 3:1 to 4:1.
[0256] Hydrophilic silicas used in the invention are readily wettable with water. Preferred hydrophilic silicas are hydrophilic fumed silicas, especially the non-alkylated commercial products of the Aerosil® series from Evonik Degussa, especially Aerosil®-130, Aerosil®-150, Aerosil®-200, Aerosil®-300, and Aerosil®-380, as well as products of the Cab-O-Sil series from Cabot, especially Cab-O-Sil HS-5.
[0257] Another suitable hydrated silica is Sipernat 22S, available from Evonik under the trade name. This raw material is described as amorphous silica and has the CAS number 7631-86-9 or 112926-00-8.
[0258] Hydrophobic silicas used according to the invention are alkyl-modified at least on the surface of the silica particles. They preferably contain hydrophobic groups on the surface, such as O—
[0259] (CHg^Si^ and CgHiySi- — O —
[0260] O— Q_
[0261] Preferred hydrophobic silicas are hydrophobic pyrogenic silicas, in particular the alkylated commercial products of the Aerosil® series from Evonik Degussa, in particular Aerosil®-R202, Aerosil®-R805, Aerosil®-R812, Aerosil®-R972 and Aerosil®-R976, as well as products of the Cab-O-Sil TS series from Cabot, in particular Cab-O-Sil TS-530.
[0262] Other suitable hydrophobic silicas are silica silylate and silica dimethyl silylate.
[0263] Aerosil®-R972 is also particularly preferred, which has a BET surface area of approximately 110 m 2 / g and has about 70% of the surface occupied by methylated hydroxyl groups.
[0264] Another sebum-absorbing substance according to the invention is perlite. Perlite is a volcanic glass (obsidian).
[0265] Further sebum-adsorbing substances according to the invention can be selected from the group of zeolites. Zeolites are crystalline aluminosilicates of the general formula M2AO ■ AI2O3 ■ xSiO2 ■ yH2O, where M = mono- or polyvalent metal ion (usually an alkali or alkaline earth cation), as well as H or NH4, z = valence of the cation, x = 1.8 to approximately 12, and y = 0 to approximately 8.
[0266] Important properties of zeolites are their framework and pore structure, as well as the acid centers and mobile ions embedded in the framework. The crystal lattices of zeolites are composed of SiO4 and AlO4 tetrahedra, each linked by oxygen bridges to form rings or prisms. These, in turn, combine to form further secondary building units (SBU), each of which can contain up to 16 Si or Al atoms, resulting in a wide variety of structures. This creates a spatial arrangement of similarly constructed cavities that are accessible via windows (pore openings) or three-dimensional channel systems.
[0267] The stoichiometric ratio of Si to Al (modulus) is an important parameter of zeolites. Since, according to the so-called Löwenstein rule, only SiOAl or SiOSi bridges, but never AlOAl bridges, are allowed in the zeolite lattice, the modulus never drops below 1 . With each exchange of one Si 4+by an Al 3+ -ion, a localized negative charge is introduced into the crystal lattice.
[0268] Zeolite minerals are formed by hydrothermal transformation from volcanic glasses or tuffaceous deposits. According to their crystal lattices, natural zeolites can be divided into
[0269] - Fiber zeolites (natrolite, laumontite, mordenite, thomsonite),
[0270] - Leaf zeolites (Heulandite, Stilbite, Phillipsite, Harmotome, Yugawaralite)
[0271] - and the so-called cube zeolites (faujasite, gmelinite, chabazite, offretite, levyn), which have a cubic or pseudocubic lattice.
[0272] Synthetic zeolites are classified according to their pore size into narrow-, medium-, and wide-pore types. Other sebum-absorbing substances according to the invention can be selected from the group of polylactic acids. Polylactic acid, also called polylactide or PLA, is a term for biodegradable polymers (polyesters) that are primarily obtained through the ionic polymerization of lactide, a ring-shaped bond of two lactic acid molecules.
[0273] At temperatures between 140 and 180 °C and with the action of catalytic tin compounds (e.g., tin oxide), ring-opening polymerization occurs. This produces plastics with a high molecular weight and strength. Lactide itself can be produced by fermenting molasses or by fermenting glucose with the help of various bacteria. Furthermore, high-molecular-weight and pure polylactides can be produced directly from lactic acid using a process called polycondensation. However, the disposal of the solvent is problematic in industrial production.
[0274] Lactic acid (2-hydroxypropanoic acid) has an asymmetric carbon atom, so polylactic acid also has optically active centers in the L(+) and D(-) configuration. The ratio of L to D monomer units determines the degree of crystallinity, melting point, and biodegradability of the polymers.
[0275] Polylactic acids suitable for the invention are L-polylactic acid, D-polylactic acid, and L / D-polylactic acid, as well as mixtures thereof. The polylactic acid is preferably used in the form of particles or powder in the post-treatment agent according to the invention.
[0276] The molecular weight of the polylactic acid suitable according to the invention is preferably 1000 to 1,000,000, preferably 10,000 to 300,000, more preferably 50,000 to 250,000 and in particular 100,000 to 180,000 Dalton.
[0277] In a further embodiment of the present invention, the polylactic acid is used in a form blended with fillers. The use of larger filler amounts helps to break the polymer into particles, increases biodegradability, and increases the internal specific surface area through porosity and capillarity. Water-soluble fillers are particularly preferred here, for example, metal chlorides such as NaCl, KCl, etc., metal carbonates such as Na2CO3, NaHCO3, etc., and metal sulfates such as MgSO4.
[0278] Natural raw materials can also be used as fillers, such as nutshells, wood or bamboo fibers, starch, xanthan gum, alginates, dextran, agar, etc. These fillers are biodegradable and do not impair the good ecological properties of the polylactic acid particles. Polylactic acid particles suitable for the invention can be either spherical or irregular, exhibiting a certain degree of circularity.
[0279] Further sebum-adsorbing substances according to the invention can be selected from the group of polyamides. Polyamides are linear polymers with regularly repeating amide bonds along the main chain. The amide group can be considered the condensation product of a carboxylic acid and an amide. The resulting bond is an amide bond that can be hydrolytically cleaved.
[0280] A suitable polyamide is, for example, Nylon 6.6 polyamide with the CAS number 32131-17-2, which is available under the trade name Nylon Polyamide Fibre 0.1 inch from Cellusuede Products (Pacific Coast Chemical).
[0281] The sebum-adsorbing substance(s) (a3) are preferably used in specific quantity ranges in the agent according to the invention. Dyed hair strands possessed a particularly soft and natural feel when the agent according to the invention contained one or more sebum-adsorbing substances (a3) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably 0.15 to 10.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.3 to 7.5 wt.%, even more preferably 0.5 to 6.0 wt.%, and most preferably 1.0 to 5.0 wt.%, based on its total weight.
[0282] Within the scope of a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on its total weight - one or more sebum-adsorbing substances (a3) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably from 0.15 to 10.0 wt.%, more preferably from 0.3 to 7.5 wt.%, even more preferably from 0.5 to 6.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably from 1.0 to 5.0 wt.%.
[0283] Average water content
[0284] The agent described above is a ready-to-use agent that can be applied to the keratin material. This ready-to-use agent preferably has a low to medium water content.
[0285] Particularly when using the sebum-adsorbing substance(s) (a3) in powder form, it has proven advantageous to limit the water content of the agent to a maximum of 50.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 35.0% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 20.0% by weight, and particularly preferably 1.5 to 15.0% by weight. Therefore, agents which contain, based on the total weight of the agent, 0.1 to 50.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 35.0% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 20.0% by weight, and particularly preferably 1.5 to 15.0% by weight of water are particularly suitable. In a further explicitly very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on the total weight of the agent - 0.1 to 50.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 35.0 wt.%, more preferably 1.0 to 20.0 wt.% and particularly preferably 1.5 to 15.0 wt.% water.
[0286] For example, a maximum water content of 15% by weight in the product means that the amount of water in the product resulting from the direct use of water in the product and / or the amount of water introduced into the product by the amounts of water present in the ingredients used does not exceed 15% by weight. The water content in percent by weight is based on the total weight of the product.
[0287] Solvent in the medium
[0288] The use of solvents in the product has led to good results. For this reason, the product according to the invention can additionally contain at least one solvent as an optional ingredient.
[0289] Suitable solvents include, for example, solvents from the group consisting of 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerin, phenoxyethanol, and benzyl alcohol. The use of 1,2-propylene glycol is particularly preferred.
[0290] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one solvent from the group consisting of 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol, phenoxyethanol and benzyl alcohol, very particularly preferably 1,2-propylene glycol.
[0291] 1,2-Propylene glycol is alternatively referred to as 1,2-propanediol and has the CAS numbers 57-55-6 [(RS)-1,2-dihydroxypropane], 4254-14-2 [(R)-1,2-dihydroxypropane] and 4254-153 [(S)-1,2-dihydroxypropane]. Ethylene glycol is alternatively referred to as 1,2-ethanediol and has the CAS number 107-21-1. Glycerin is alternatively referred to as 1,2,3-propanetriol and has the CAS number 56-81-5. Phenoxyethanol has the CAS number 122-99-6.
[0292] All solvents described above are commercially available from various chemical suppliers such as Aldrich or Fluka.
[0293] By using the aforementioned solvents in suitable amounts, a particularly stable agent can be obtained, which allows color results of particularly high intensity to be achieved on the keratin material. The solvent(s) are preferably present in the agent according to the invention in specific quantity ranges. It has proven preferable for the agent to contain one or more solvents other than water in a total amount of 5.0 to 60.0 wt.%, preferably 10.0 to 50.0 wt.%, and very particularly preferably 20 to 50 wt.%, based on the total weight of the agent.
[0294] In a further explicitly very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on the total weight of the agent - one or more solvents from the group consisting of 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol, phenoxyethanol and benzyl alcohol in a total amount of 5.0 to 60.0 wt.%, preferably 10.0 to 50.0 wt.% and very particularly preferably 20 to 50 wt.%.
[0295] Alkylene glycols on average
[0296] In addition to the solvents described above, or instead of them, the composition according to the invention may also contain one or more alkylene glycols. For example, very good results were obtained when the composition contained at least one alkylene glycol of formula (AG-1),
[0297] (AG-1), where x1 is an integer from 1 to 100.
[0298] The alkylene glycols of formula (AG-1) are protic substances with at least two hydroxyl groups, which, due to their repeating unit -CH2-CH2-O-, can also be referred to as polyethylene glycols, provided x1 represents a value of at least 2. In the alkylene glycols of formula (AG-1), x1 represents an integer from 1 to 100. The work leading to this invention has shown that these polyethylene glycols—together with the other components of the composition—are particularly suitable for ensuring sufficiently intense coloration and improving the feel of keratin fibers.
[0299] Depending on their chain length, polyethylene glycols are liquid or solid, water-soluble polymers. Polyethylene glycols with a molecular weight between 200 g / mol and 400 g / mol are non-volatile liquids at room temperature. PEG 600 has a melting range of 17 to 22 °C and thus a paste-like consistency. With molecular weights above 3000 g / mol, PEGs are solid substances and are marketed as flakes or powders.
[0300] The use of low-molecular-weight alkylene glycols (or polyethylene glycols) has proven highly suitable for achieving the object of the invention. For low-molecular-weight alkylene glycols (or polyethylene glycols) within the meaning of the present invention, x1 represents an integer from 1 to 100, preferably an integer from 1 to 80, more preferably an integer from 2 to 60, even more preferably an integer from 3 to 40, even more preferably an integer from 4 to 20, and most preferably an integer from 6 to 15.
[0301] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one alkylgene glycol of the formula (AG-1), where x1 stands for an integer from 1 to 100, preferably an integer from 2 to 60, more preferably an integer from 3 to 40, even more preferably an integer from 4 to 20 and most preferably an integer from 6 to 15.
[0302] A particularly preferred low-molecular-weight polyethylene glycol is PEG-8. PEG-8 contains an average of 8 ethylene glycol units (x1 = 8), has an average molecular weight of 400 g / mol, and bears the CAS number 25322-68-3. PEG-8 is also known as PEG 400 and is commercially available, for example, from APS.
[0303] Other suitable low molecular weight polyethylene glycols include PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-9 and PEG-10.
[0304] Another suitable polyethylene glycol is PEG-32. PEG-32 contains 32 ethylene glycol units (x1 = 32), has an average molecular weight of 1500 g / mol, and carries the CAS number 25322-68-3. PEG-32 is also known as PEG 1500 and can be purchased commercially, for example, from Clariant.
[0305] Furthermore, very good results were obtained when the agent contained at least one alkylene glycol of the formula (AG-2),
[0306] (AG-2), where x2 is an integer from 1001 to 95000.
[0307] The alkylene glycols of formula (AG-2) are very high molecular weight polyethylene glycols in which the index number x2 represents an integer from 1001 to 95000.
[0308] In interaction, the alkylene glycols (AG-1) and (AG-2) enable good applicability of the cosmetic product, good color absorption of pigment (a2) and aminosilicone (a3) and, in particular, the improvement of the feel of the keratin fibers.
[0309] In particularly preferred alkylene glycols of the formula (AG-2), x2 represents an integer from 1001 to 80000, preferably from 1400 to 40000, more preferably from 1800 to 20000 and most preferably from 2000 to 10000.
[0310] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one alkylene glycol of the formula (AG-2),
[0311] (AG-2), where x2 is an integer from 1001 to 80000, preferably from 1400 to 40000, more preferably from 1800 to 20000 and most preferably from 2000 to 10000.
[0312] Particularly suitable high molecular weight polyethylene glycols are the commercially available products from Dow under the trade name Polyox.
[0313] A well-suited example is POLYOX WSR 301. In this polyethylene glycol of formula (AG-2), x2 represents an average of 90,000. POLYOX WSR 301 has a weight-average molecular weight of 4,000,000 Daltons. POLYOX WSR N-60K, alternatively known as PEG-45M, is also well-suited. In this polyethylene glycol of formula (AG-2), x2 has an average value of 45,000. PEG-45M has a weight-average molecular weight of 2,000,000 Daltons.
[0314] POLYOX WSR N-12K, also known as PEG-23M, is also well-suited. In this polyethylene glycol with the formula (AG-2), x2 represents an average of 23,000. PEG-23M has a weight-average molecular weight of 1,000,000 Daltons.
[0315] POLYOX WSR-1105 is also well suited. In this polyethylene glycol of formula (AG-2), x2 represents an average integer of 20454, and the weight-average molecular weight is 900,000 Daltons.
[0316] POLYOX WSR 35 is also well suited. In this polyethylene glycol of formula (AG-2), x2 represents an average of 4500. POLYOX WSR 35 has a weight-average molecular weight of 200,000 Daltons.
[0317] POLYOX WSR N-10 is particularly suitable; in this polyethylene glycol of formula (AG-2), x2 represents an average integer of 2272. POLYOX WSR N-10 has a weight-average molecular weight of 100,000 Daltons.
[0318] Furthermore, very good results were obtained when the agent contained at least one alkylene glycol of the formula (AG-3), wherein the alkylene glycol of the formula (AG-3) is a polyethylene glycol with an average molecular weight.
[0319] The optionally contained alkylene glycol of formula (AG-3)
[0320] (AG-3), x3 represents an integer from 101 to 1000, preferably an integer from 105 to 800, more preferably an integer from 107 to 600, even more preferably an integer from 109 to 400, and most preferably an integer from 110 to 200.
[0321] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one alkylene glycol of the formula (AG-3), where x3 stands for an integer from 101 to 1000, preferably for an integer from 105 to 800, more preferably for an integer from 107 to 600, even more preferably for an integer from 109 to 400 and most preferably for an integer from 110 to 200.
[0322] A particularly suitable medium-molecular-weight polyethylene glycol is PEG 6000, which is commercially available from National Starch (China). The molecular weight of PEG 6000 is between 6000 and 7500 g / mol, corresponding to a x3 value of 136 to 171.
[0323] Another suitable polyethylene glycol is PEG 12000, which is marketed commercially by CG Chemicals, for example, under the trade name Polyethylene Glycol 12000 S (or PEG 12000 S). The molecular weight of PEG 12000 is stated to be between 10,500 and 15,000 g / mol, corresponding to a x3 value of 238 to 341.
[0324] Another suitable polyethylene glycol is PEG 20000, which is commercially available from Clariant under the trade name Polyglycol 20000 P or under the alternative name PEG-350. PEG 20000 has an average molecular weight of 20000 g / mol, which corresponds to a x3 value of 454.
[0325] The alkylene glycols of the formula (AG-1), (AG-2) and / or (AG-3) are also preferably present in the agent according to the invention in certain quantitative ranges. It has proven particularly advantageous if the agent - based on its total weight - contains one or more alkylene glycols, preferably one or more alkylene glycols of the formulas (AG-1), (AG-2) and / or (AG-3), in a total amount of 1.0 to 90.0 wt.%, preferably 10.0 to 80.0 wt.%, more preferably 15.0 to 70.0 wt.%, and most preferably 30.0 to 65.0 wt.%.
[0326] Within the scope of a further very particularly preferred embodiment, an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on the total weight of the agent - one or more alkylene glycols, preferably one or more alkylene glycols of the formulas (AG-1), (AG-2) and / or (AG-3), in a total amount of 1.0 to 90.0 wt.%, preferably from 10.0 to 80.0 wt.%, more preferably from 15.0 to 70.0 wt.%, and very particularly preferably from 30.0 to 65.0 wt.%. Very particular preference is given to an agent containing - based on its total weight - one or more alkylene glycols of the formula (AG-1) in a total amount of 30.0 to 70.0 wt.%, and one or more alkylene glycols of the formula (AG-2) in a total amount of 0.4 to 5.0 wt.%, and one or more alkylene glycols of the formula (AG-3) in a total amount of 4.0 to 20.0 wt.%.
[0327] Explicitly very particularly preferred is a composition containing - based on its total weight - one or more alkylene glycols of the formula (AG-1) in a total amount of 40 to 60.0 wt.%, and one or more alkylene glycols of the formula (AG-2) in a total amount of 0.5 to 3.0 wt.%, and one or more alkylene glycols of the formula (AG-3) in a total amount of 5.0 to 15.0 wt.%. Other ingredients in the composition
[0328] The agent according to the invention can also contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as, for example, structuring agents such as fatty components, glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example lecithin and cephalins; perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins; polymers such as anionic, non-ionic and cationic polymers; surfactants such as anionic, non-ionic, cationic, zwitterionic and amphoteric surfactants, fatty components, fiber structure-improving active ingredients, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose; dyes for coloring the agent; anti-dandruff active ingredients such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazole; amino acids and oligopeptides; Protein hydrolysates of animal and / or vegetable origin, as well as in the form of their fatty acid condensation products or, where appropriate, anionically or cationically modified derivatives;vegetable oils; sunscreens and UV blockers; active ingredients such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, pantolactone, allantoin, pyrrolidinonecarboxylic acids and their salts and bisabolol; polyphenols, in particular hydroxycinnamic acids, 6,7-dihydroxycoumarins, hydroxybenzoic acids, catechins, tannins, leucoanthocyanidins, anthocyanidins, flavanones, flavones and flavonols; ceramides or pseudoceramides; vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors; plant extracts; fats and waxes such as fatty alcohols, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins; swelling and penetrating agents such as glycerin, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates; opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers; Pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate;as well as propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N2O, dimethyl ether, CO2, and air. The expert will select these additional substances based on the desired properties of the agent. Regarding further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the expert. The additional active ingredients and excipients are preferably used in the preparations according to the invention in amounts of 0.0001 to 25 wt.%, in particular 0.0005 to 15 wt.%, based on the total weight of the respective agent.
[0329] Process for coloring keratin material
[0330] The agents described above can be used excellently in processes for coloring keratin material, especially human hair.
[0331] A second subject of the present invention is therefore a method for dyeing keratinic material, in particular human hair, in which an agent as disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject of the invention is applied to the keratinic fibers and, if appropriate, rinsed out again after a contact time of 30 seconds to 45 minutes.
[0332] In other words, a second subject of the invention is a method for dyeing keratin material, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps:
[0333] (1) applying a coloring agent to the keratinic material, wherein the coloring agent is an agent as disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention,
[0334] (2) Action of the dye on the keratin material and
[0335] (3) if necessary, rinse the dye with water.
[0336] In step (1) of the method according to the invention, the agent of the first subject matter of the invention is applied to the keratinic material, which is most preferably human hair.
[0337] In step (2) of the method according to the invention, the agent is then allowed to act on the keratin material after its application. Various exposure times, for example, from 30 seconds to 60 minutes, are conceivable.
[0338] However, a major advantage of the coloring system according to the invention is that an intensive color result can be achieved even in very short periods of time after short exposure times. For this reason, it is advantageous if the application mixture remains on the keratin material after its application for only comparatively short periods of time of 30 seconds to 15 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, and particularly preferably from 1 to 5 minutes. In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized by
[0339] (2) Allowing the colorant to act on the keratinic material for a period of time from 30 seconds to 15 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, and particularly preferably from 1 to 5 minutes.
[0340] After the dye has been applied to the keratin material, it can finally be rinsed out with water in step (3) of the process. It is preferred that the dye be removed from the keratin material by rinsing with water after the dye has been applied.
[0341] In one embodiment, the product can be washed out with water alone, i.e., without the aid of a treatment product or shampoo. The use of a treatment product or conditioner is also conceivable in principle.
[0342] However, in order to achieve the object of the invention and to increase the comfort of use, it has been found to be particularly preferred to rinse out the agent in step (3) exclusively with water without the aid of any further after-treatment agent, shampoo or conditioner.
[0343] In a further preferred embodiment, a method according to the invention is characterized by
[0344] (3) Rinse out the dye with water only.
[0345] With regard to the further preferred embodiments of the methods according to the invention, what has been said regarding the agent according to the invention applies mutatis mutantis.
[0346] Examples
[0347] 1 . Formulations
[0348] The following ready-to-use dyes were prepared (all data in weight percent unless otherwise stated): 2. Application
[0349] The previously prepared, ready-to-use dyes V (comparison) and E1 and E2 (invention) were each applied to strands of hair (Kerling, type "Euronatur-haar weiss" (ENH)) (liquor ratio: 1 g of dye per 1 g of strand) and left to act for three minutes. The strands were then thoroughly rinsed with water (1 minute) and dried.
[0350] 3. Evaluation of the grip feel
[0351] The feel of the dry hair was assessed by trained personnel. The color intensity of the dyed strands was assessed visually under a daylight lamp.
[0352] Color intensity: + = weak ++ = medium +++ = very high
[0353] By using the inventive colorants E1 and E2, the hair feel was significantly improved compared to the colorant of comparison V. Coloring with E1 and E2 led to intensive color results without any loss in color intensity.
Claims
Patent claims 1. Agents for dyeing keratinous material, especially human hair, containing (a1) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer, and (a2) at least one pigment, and (a3) at least one sebum-adsorbing substance.
2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (Si-Amino), -Amino) where ALK1 and ALK2 independently represent a linear or branched, divalent C1-C2o alkylene group.
3. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) comprising structural units of formula (Si-I) and formula (Si-I I) (Si-Il). Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it contains – based on the total weight of the composition – one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1) in a total amount of 0.1 to 8.0 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.3 to 3.0 wt.%, and most preferably 0.4 to 2.5 wt.%. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it contains at least one pigment (a2) selected from the group consisting of inorganic pigments, organic pigments, pigments based on a lamellar substrate platelet, pigments based on a lenticular substrate platelet, and vacuum metallized pigments. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it comprises - based on the total weight of the composition - one or more pigments (a2) in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.2 to 2.5 wt.%.-% and most preferably from 0.25 to 1.5 wt.%. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it contains at least one sebum-adsorbing substance (a3) selected from the group consisting of composite powders, starches, modified starches, talc, silicic acids, silica, calcium silicates, perlite, zeolites, polylactic acids, polyamide powders and acrylic polymer powders. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the sebum-adsorbing substance (a3) comprises at least one composite powder comprising an organic component (Compo-A) and an inorganic component (Compo-B). Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it contains at least one composite powder as a sebum-adsorbing substance (a3) that (Compo-A) comprises particles of an organosilicon copolymer and (Compo-B) comprises particles of silicon dioxide. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it contains a composite powder as a sebum-adsorbing substance (a3), comprising (Compo-A) particles made of a silicone elastomer and (Compo-B) particles made of silicon dioxide, wherein the silicon dioxide particles (Compo-B) are immobilized on the surface of the silicone elastomer particles (Compo-A). A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it contains, as a sebum-adsorbing substance (a3), a powder with the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Silica and / or a powder with the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Silica (and) Butylene Glycol. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it contains - based on the total weight of the composition - one or more sebum adsorbing substances (a3) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably 0.15 to 10.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.3 to 7.5 wt.%, even more preferably 0.5 to 6.0 wt.% and most preferably 1.0 to 5.0 wt.%.A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it contains – based on the total weight of the composition – 0.1 to 50.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 35.0 wt.%, more preferably 1.0 to 20.0 wt.%, and particularly preferably 1.5 to 15.0 wt.% water. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it contains – based on the total weight of the composition – one or more solvents from the group consisting of 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol, phenoxyethanol, and benzyl alcohol in a total amount of 5.0 to 60.0 wt.%, preferably 10.0 to 50.0 wt.%, and most preferably 20 to 50 wt.%. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it contains at least one alkylgene glycol of formula (AG-1). where x1 represents an integer from 1 to 100, preferably an integer from 2 to 60, more preferably an integer from 3 to 40, even more preferably an integer from 4 to 20, and most preferably an integer from 6 to 15. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that it contains at least one alkylene glycol of formula (AG-2), (AG-2), where x2 represents an integer from 1001 to 80000, preferably from 1400 to 40000, more preferably from 1800 to 20000, and most preferably from 2000 to 10000. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that it contains at least one alkylene glycol of formula (AG-3), where x3 represents an integer from 101 to 1000, preferably an integer from 105 to 800, more preferably an integer from 107 to 600, even more preferably an integer from 109 to 400, and most preferably an integer from 110 to 200. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that it comprises – based on the total weight of the composition – one or more alkylene glycols, preferably one or more alkylene glycols of formulas (AG-1), (AG-2) and / or (AG-3), in a total amount of 1.0 to 90.0 wt.%, preferably 10.0 to 80.0 wt.%, further preferably containing 15.0 to 70.0 wt.%, and most preferably 30.0 to 65.0 wt.%. A method for dyeing keratinous material, in particular human hair, in which an agent as described in claims 1 to 18 is applied to the keratinous fibers and optionally rinsed off after an exposure time of 30 seconds to 45 minutes.