Two-stage dyeing method for increasing the intensity of colorations with natural dyes

Abstract

The invention relates to a method and a kit for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human hair, using selected natural dyes, including the pretreatment with an active ingredient that increases color intensity.

Description

[0001] Two-stage dyeing process to improve the intensity of dyeings with natural dyes

[0002] The invention relates to a method and a kit for coloring keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, using selected natural dyes and ammonia.

[0003] The desire to change one's hair color is a major need for many consumers. To satisfy this need, the cosmetics industry offers a diverse range of products. Hair dyes that achieve particularly long-lasting color with high coverage are usually oxidation dyes. These use oxidizing agents that can damage the hair structure. Certain cationic direct azo dyes are also capable of achieving hair color changes with excellent fastness properties. However, these azo dyes are synthetic dyes.

[0004] A growing number of consumers are demanding hair dyes and hair coloring processes based on natural dyes, even though these products and processes are often inferior to the aforementioned products and processes in terms of authenticity, coverage, and color variety.

[0005] In addition to coloring with henna, which is obtained from the Lawsonia inermis plant, hair coloring with certain polyphenols, particularly tannins and pseudotannins, has long been known. Such polyphenols are extracted from specific plant parts. However, it is also possible to use powdered plant parts with a high polyphenol content in the colorant. In addition, it is possible to use pure polyphenols, particularly tannic acid, according to the invention. Since the natural polyphenols used for coloring are usually uncharged or anionically charged molecules, their adhesion to the negatively charged surface of keratin fibers, such as hair, is limited, especially if the surface shows only a slight degree of damage.

[0006] State of the art

[0007] There has been no lack of efforts in the prior art to improve the adhesion of polyphenol dyes to keratin fibers, such as hair. For example, the adhesion of the polyphenol dye to the hair or keratin fibers, and thus the fastness of the coloration, as well as the achieved shade and color intensity, can be positively influenced by certain divalent or trivalent metal salts. Published patent application EP327345A2 discloses a composition for darkening hair, comprising a first component formulated as a shampoo and containing at least one iron(II) salt (i.e., a mordant), and a second component containing at least one organic compound, e.g., propyl gallate, as a colorant. After application of the second component, the hair is darkened due to the formation of a dark-colored complex of iron(II) and propyl gallate.Published application WO2010094207A1 discloses a method for coloring hair, in which the hair is first treated with a keratin reducing agent, thereby breaking down the hair structure. Subsequently, a composition containing a ferrous salt as a mordant and an antioxidant is applied to the hair, followed by a hair dye composition containing an emollient and a polyphenol colorant. Such mordants can accumulate on the hair and make it brittle and fragile. Certain mordants, for example Cu(II) ions, can undesirably shade the hair, particularly with a green tint.

[0008] The addition of natural dyes to oxidative hair dyes is also popular. This involves mixing the coloring cream with an aqueous preparation containing hydrogen peroxide shortly before application to the hair. The coloring cream primarily contains oxidation dye precursors, such as toluene-2,5-diamine sulfate, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole sulfate, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 4-amino-m-cresol, and m-aminophenol; the natural dye content serves only to provide shading. The resulting color is essentially a standard oxidative dye with high fastness properties. The problem of poor adhesion of the natural dye plays a minor role with such products. A corresponding product is listed in Mintel's GNPD database under registration number 1867781.WO2017108551A1 discloses a process for oxidative hair coloring in which only natural dyes, such as quebracho extract, are used in the presence of hydrogen peroxide, but no oxidation dye precursors. In any case, the hair is damaged by the oxidizing agent.

[0009] Task

[0010] The object of the present invention was to provide a process for dyeing keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, using natural dyes, which achieves a dyeing with good fastness properties.

[0011] The present invention was further based on the object of providing a method for coloring keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, using natural dyes, which causes the least possible damage to the keratin structure.

[0012] A further object was to provide a process for coloring keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, using natural dyes, which achieves coloring with high color intensity.

[0013] A further object was to provide a process for coloring keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, using natural dyes, which achieves particularly chromatic colorings.

[0014] Surprisingly, it was found that the dyeing process described in the patent claims achieves intensive coloring using only natural dyes without damaging the hair structure. The present invention relates to a process for the non-oxidative coloring of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, with natural dyes, which comprises the following process steps in the given order: a) applying an aqueous ammonia-containing composition (PT) which has a pH in the range of 7.1 to 13, preferably in the range of 7.6 to 11.0, particularly preferably 8.0 to 10.0, extraordinarily preferably 8.5 to 9.5, each measured at 20°C, to the keratin fibers, b) leaving to act for a time of 30 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably 5 to 45 minutes, particularly preferably 15 to 30 minutes, c) rinsing the keratin fibers with water, d) optionally drying the keratin fibers,e) directly thereafter applying an aqueous dyeing composition (F) having a pH in the range from 3.0 to 10.5, preferably in the range from 4.0 to 9.5, particularly preferably in the range from 5.0 to 9.0, extraordinarily preferably in the range from 7.1 to 8.0, in each case at 20°C, to the keratin fibers, wherein the dyeing composition (F) contains at least one polyphenol which,

[0015] - is available via the shikimate biosynthesis pathway and has at least 2 hydroxy groups in the molecule and

[0016] - has a molecular weight in the range of 170 to 20,000 g / mol; furthermore f) allowing to act for a time of 30 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably 5 to 45 minutes, particularly preferably 20 to 35 minutes, extraordinarily preferably 25 to 30 minutes, g) rinsing the keratin fibers with water, h) optionally drying the keratin fibers, wherein no hydrogen peroxide and no ions and compounds of metals other than alkali metals and alkaline earth metals are used in the process.

[0017] In order to preserve the hair-protecting potential of natural dyes, the claimed method is preferably limited to those methods in which the keratin fibers have not been treated with an oxidizing agent within a period of up to 7 days prior to the application of the compositions (PT) and (F).

[0018] Oxidizing agents commonly used in hair cosmetics, but which are not intended to be used in hair treatments according to the invention, even as pretreatments, include hydrogen peroxide, persulfates, perbromates, percarbonates, perborates, and percarbamides. The oxygen contained in ambient air does not constitute an oxidizing agent in the context of the invention.

[0019] In order to preserve the hair-protecting potential of natural dyes, preferred methods according to the invention are limited to those methods in which the keratin fibers have not been treated with a keratin-reducing compound within a period of up to 7 days prior to the application of compositions (PT) and (F). Keratin-reducing compounds that are typically used in hair cosmetics, but which are not intended to be used in hair treatment according to the invention, even as a pretreatment, include thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, cysteine, N-acetylcysteine, cysteamine, and the salts of the aforementioned compounds, as well as sulfites, in particular sodium sulfite, hydrogen sulfites, in particular sodium hydrogen sulfite, and metabisulfites, in particular sodium metabisulfite, as well as mixtures of these keratin-reducing compounds.

[0020] As a first process step, an aqueous ammonia-containing composition (PT) is applied to the hair to be colored, which is preferably dry, which has a pH in the range of 7.1 to 13, preferably in the range of 7.6 to 11.0, particularly preferably 8.0 to 10.0, extraordinarily preferably 8.5 to 9.5, each measured at 20°C. The composition (PT) remains on the keratin fibers for a time of 30 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably 5 to 45 minutes, particularly preferably 15 to 30 minutes and is then rinsed out with water.

[0021] It is preferable to dry the keratin fibers after rinsing.

[0022] According to the invention, ammonia is used in the form of its aqueous solution. Corresponding aqueous ammonia solutions can be 10 to 35 percent solutions (calculated in wt. %, 100 g of aqueous ammonia solution accordingly contain 10 to 35 g of ammonia). Ammonia is preferably used in the form of a 20 to 30 wt. % solution, particularly preferably in the form of a 25 wt. % solution.

[0023] Dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the aqueous composition (PT), in each case based on its weight, contains ammonia (NH3) in an amount of 0.1 - 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.7 - 4.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 1.0 - 3.5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 1.4 - 2.0 wt.%.

[0024] Further dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the aqueous composition (PT), in each case based on its weight, contains water in an amount of 70-98 wt.%, preferably 80-95 wt.%, particularly preferably 83-95 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 88-94 wt.%.

[0025] Further dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the aqueous composition (PT) contains a buffer system selected from a mixture of a moderately strong or weak acid with its conjugate or corresponding base or corresponding acid for pH adjustment. Further dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the aqueous composition (PT) contains a buffer system selected from an ammonia / ammonium salt mixture for pH adjustment.Preferred ammonium salts that buffer the strongly basic pH of the aqueous ammonia solution to a less basic pH are selected from ammonium chloride, ammonium bromide, ammonium hydrogen sulfate, ammonium sulfate, ammonium dihydrogen phosphate, diammonium hydrogen phosphate, ammonium phosphate, ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium carbonate, ammonium nitrate, ammonium acetate, ammonium glycolate, ammonium gluconate, ammonium tartrate, ammonium lactate, and mixtures of these ammonium salts. Ammonium chloride, ammonium hydrogen sulfate, ammonium sulfate, ammonium dihydrogen phosphate, diammonium hydrogen phosphate, ammonium phosphate, ammonium bicarbonate, and ammonium carbonate are particularly preferred. Ammonium chloride is extremely preferred.

[0026] In principle, other buffer systems are also suitable.

[0027] Further dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the aqueous composition (PT) contains a buffer system selected from a hydrogen phosphate salt / dihydrogen phosphate salt mixture for pH adjustment. Suitable salts are the sodium and potassium salts of hydrogen phosphate and dihydrogen phosphate. With hydrogen phosphate salt / dihydrogen phosphate salt mixtures, pH values ​​in the range from 7.1 to about 8.2 can be adjusted.

[0028] For higher pH values, mixtures of sodium or potassium bicarbonate with sodium or potassium carbonate are suitable. Further dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the aqueous composition (PT) contains a buffer system selected from a mixture of sodium or potassium bicarbonate with sodium or potassium carbonate for pH adjustment. Suitable salts are the sodium salts and the potassium salts of bicarbonate and carbonate. With bicarbonate salt / carbonate salt mixtures, pH values ​​in the range from about 9.0 to about 11.0 can be adjusted.

[0029] The specialist can obtain the appropriate weights of buffer salts to adjust the desired pH value from the relevant manuals.

[0030] The method according to the invention for the non-oxidative coloring of keratin fibers comprises, directly following the pretreatment of the keratin fibers with the aqueous ammonia-containing composition, the rinsing thereof and the optional drying, the application of an aqueous coloring composition (F) having a pH in the range from 3.0 to 10.5, preferably in the range from 4.0 to 9.5, particularly preferably in the range from 5.0 to 9.0, extraordinarily preferably in the range from 7.1 to 8.0, in each case at 20°C, to the keratin fibers, wherein the coloring composition (F) contains at least one polyphenol which

[0031] - is obtainable via the shikimate biosynthesis pathway and has at least 2 hydroxy groups in the molecule and - has a molecular weight in the range of 170 to 20,000 g / mol.

[0032] An essential feature of the dyeing process according to the invention is dyeing with a natural polyphenol dye, wherein the natural dye comprises at least one polyphenol that—according to the Quideau definition of polyphenols—is obtainable via the shikimate biosynthesis pathway and furthermore has at least two hydroxyl groups in the molecule and whose molecular weight is in the range of 170 to 20,000 g / mol, preferably 290 to 3,000 g / mol. Polyphenols preferably used according to the invention have at least 12 hydroxyl groups and at least five phenyl groups.

[0033] Dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol is selected from tannins and pseudotannins and mixtures thereof.

[0034] Tannins are phytochemical products of secondary metabolism, more specifically, the shikimate biosynthesis pathway, in plants. They can be obtained from various parts of plants, preferably from wood, especially stem wood, as well as from bark, leaves, seeds, fruits, galls, pods, pods, or roots.

[0035] Tannins preferably used according to the invention are selected from hydrolyzable tannins and condensed tannins.

[0036] Hydrolyzable tannins have the molecule gallic acid as their basic building block. Gallic acid (170.12 g / mol) itself is not referred to as a tannin, but rather as a pseudotannin.

[0037] Hydrolyzable tannins can be divided into gallotannins and ellagitannins. Gallotannin is also called tannic acid.

[0038] The condensed tannins have flavan-3-ols as their basic building block. Flavan-3-ols (226.27 g / mol) themselves are not referred to as tannins, but rather as pseudotannins. Preferably used condensed tannins include proanthocyanidins, procyanidins, flavonoids, propelargonidins, prodelphinides, profisetinidins, proteracacinidins, proguibourtinidins, and prorobinetidins. Among the flavonoids, catechins are particularly preferred according to the invention.

[0039] Pseudotannins preferably used according to the invention are, in addition to gallic acid, flavan-3-ols and chlorogenic acid.

[0040] Preferred dyeing processes according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is obtained from at least one plant which is selected from Haematoxylum campechianum (bloodwood tree, logwood tree, Campeche tree), Haematoxylum brasiletto L (Brazilian bloodwood tree), Camellia sinensis, Acacia spp., in particular Acacia mollissima, Acacia negra and Acacia dealbata, Olea europaea (olive tree), Schinopsis lorentzii, Aspidosperma quebracho-bianco, Rubiaceae Coffea arabica L, Rheum spp., in particular Rheum palmatum, Pinus spp., Picea spp., Vitis vinifera, Lawsonia inermis (red henna), Quercus spp. (Oak), especially Quercus macrolepsis, Curcuma longa, Juglans spp., in particular Juglans nigra and Juglans regia, the tara tree (Tara spinosa, Cesalpinia spinosa, Caesalpinia tinctoria), chestnut (Castanea sativa), sumac (Rhus coriaria), the smoke tree (Rhus cotinus, Cotinus coggygria), and Madura tinctoria (dyer's mulberry) as well as mixtures thereof.

[0041] Further dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is present in the form of at least one ground plant part. Plant parts preferred according to the invention, which can preferably be used in ground form according to the invention, are leaves, fruit skins, seed skins, rhizomes (rootstock), and roots.

[0042] Further dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is present in the form of at least one plant part extract. Plant parts preferred according to the invention, from which preferred extracts can be obtained, are the stem wood, the heartwood, and also bark, leaves, seeds, fruits, galls, pods, pods, and roots. Suitable extraction agents are water, in particular hot water at a temperature of 45 - 100 °C, furthermore C1-C4 alkanols and C2-C4 polyols, in particular ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and 1,3-butylene glycol, and mixtures of these extraction agents, in particular mixtures of water and at least one C1-C4 alkanol, mixtures of water and at least one C2-C4 polyol, particularly preferably water / ethanol mixtures.

[0043] Particularly preferred dyeing processes according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the heartwood of the Brazilian bloodwood tree (Haematoxylum campechianum, also known as logwood or Campeche tree), wherein the extract was obtained by extraction with water, preferably with water at a temperature of 45-100°C. The extract itself is preferably used in concentrated form, obtainable by partially distilling off the extractant after extraction, as a viscous liquid. Other extracts from the heartwood of Haematoxylum campechianum preferred according to the invention are used in powder form, obtainable by drying, preferably spray drying, the aqueous extract.

[0044] One of the primary color components of logwood is the neoflavonoid hematein. Hematein is produced by the fermentation of hematoxylin, which is extracted from the heartwood of Haematoxylum campechianum. Hematein (molar mass 300.26 g / mol) has the following structural formula (I): Hematein Further dyeing methods which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol is selected from hematein and hematoxylin and mixtures thereof.

[0045] Further dyeing processes which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the heartwood of the Brazilian bloodwood tree (Haematoxylum brasiletto L), wherein the extract is obtained by extraction with water, preferably with water at a temperature of 45

[0046] - 100 °C. The extract itself is preferably used in concentrated form, obtainable by partial distillation of the extraction agent after extraction, as a viscous liquid. Other extracts from the heartwood of Haematoxylum brasiletto L. preferred according to the invention are used in powder form, obtainable by drying, preferably spray drying, the aqueous extract.

[0047] Further dyeing processes particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of matcha, i.e., the powder from dried leaves of Camellia sinensis. Extraordinarily preferred dyeing processes according to the invention are characterized in that the aqueous dyeing composition (F), based in each case on its weight, contains matcha in an amount of 0.3-50 wt.%, preferably 1-20 wt.%, particularly preferably 3-15 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 8

[0048] - 10 wt.%.

[0049] Further dyeing processes particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the bark of Acacia dealbata, the bark of Acacia negra, or the bark of Acacia mollissima, wherein the extract was obtained by extraction with water, preferably with water at a temperature of 45-100°C. The extract itself is preferably used in powder form, obtainable by drying, preferably spray drying, the aqueous extract.

[0050] Further dyeing processes particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the bark of Pinus spp. (pine), wherein the extract was obtained by extraction with water, preferably with water at a temperature of 45-100°C. The extract itself is preferably used in powder form, obtainable by drying, preferably spray drying, the aqueous extract.

[0051] Further dyeing processes particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the bark of Picea spp. (spruce), wherein the extract was obtained by extraction with water, preferably with water at a temperature of 45-100°C. The extract itself is preferably used in powder form, obtainable by drying, preferably spray drying, the aqueous extract. Further dyeing processes particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the leaves of the olive tree (Olea europea), wherein the extract was obtained by extraction with water, preferably with water at a temperature of 45-100°C.The extract itself is preferably used in concentrated form, obtainable by partially distilling off the extractant after extraction, as a viscous liquid. Other olive leaf extracts preferred according to the invention are used in powder form, obtainable by drying, preferably spray drying, the aqueous extract.

[0052] Further dyeing processes particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the trunk wood of Schinopsis lorentzii (red quebracho), wherein the extract was obtained by extraction with water, preferably with water at a temperature of 45-100°C. The extract itself is preferably used in concentrated form, obtainable by partially distilling off the extractant after extraction, as a viscous liquid. Other extracts from the trunk wood of Schinopsis lorentzii that are preferred according to the invention are used in powder form, obtainable by drying, preferably spray drying, the aqueous extract.

[0053] Further dyeing processes particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the trunk wood of Aspidosperma quebracho-blanco (white quebracho), wherein the extract was obtained by extraction with water, preferably with water at a temperature of 45-100°C. The extract itself is preferably used in concentrated form, obtainable by partial distillation of the extraction agent after extraction, as a viscous liquid. Other extracts from the trunk wood of Aspidosperma quebracho-blanco that are preferred according to the invention are used in powder form, obtainable by drying, preferably spray drying, the aqueous extract.

[0054] Further particularly preferred dyeing processes according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the seeds of Rubiaceae Coffea arabica L. (coffee plant), wherein the extract was obtained by extraction with a water / ethanol mixture. The extract itself is preferably used in powder form, obtainable by drying, preferably spray drying, the aqueous extract. Other extracts from the seeds of Rubiaceae Coffea arabica L. that are preferred according to the invention are preferably used in concentrated form, obtainable by partially distilling off the extractant after extraction, as a viscous liquid.

[0055] Further dyeing processes which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is in the form of an extract from the rootstocks (rhizome) of Rheum spp., in particular of Rheum palmatum, more preferably Rheum palmatum var. Tanguticum, wherein the extract was obtained by extraction with water or with a water / ethanol mixture.

[0056] Further dyeing processes which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the seeds of Vitis vinifera (grapes), wherein the extract was obtained by extraction with water or with a water / ethanol mixture.

[0057] Further dyeing processes which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of red henna powder, i.e. the powder from dried leaves of Lawsonia inermis.

[0058] Further dyeing processes particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the fruits and / or the fruit cups of Quercus spp., wherein the extract was obtained by extraction with water, preferably with water at a temperature of 45-100 °C. The extract itself is preferably used in powder form, obtainable by drying, preferably spray drying, the aqueous extract. According to the invention, the use of Valonea, the extract from the fruit cups, is particularly preferred. fits of Quercus macrolepsis.

[0059] Further dyeing processes which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the rootstocks (rhizome) of Curcuma longa, wherein the extract was preferably obtained by extraction with water or with a water / ethanol mixture.

[0060] Further dyeing processes which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the ground fruit peels of Juglans spp, in particular of Juglans nigra and Juglans regia, wherein the extract was preferably obtained by extraction with water or with a water / ethanol mixture.

[0061] Further particularly preferred dyeing processes according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the fruit pods of the tara tree (Cesalpinia spinosa), wherein the extract was obtained by extraction with water, preferably with water at a temperature of 45-100°C. The extract itself is preferably used in powder form, obtainable by drying, preferably spray drying, the aqueous extract. Further particularly preferred dyeing processes according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from chestnut wood (Castanea sativa), wherein the extract was obtained by extraction with water, preferably with water at a temperature of 45-100°C.The extract itself is preferably used in powder form, obtainable by drying, preferably spray drying, of the aqueous extract.

[0062] Further dyeing processes particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the leaves of the sumac (Rhus coriaria), wherein the extract was obtained by extraction with water, preferably with water at a temperature of 45-100°C. The extract itself is preferably used in powder form, obtainable by drying, preferably spray drying, the aqueous extract.

[0063] Further dyeing processes particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the leaves of the smoke tree (Rhus cotinus, Cotinus coggygria), wherein the extract was obtained by extraction with water, preferably with water at a temperature of 45-100°C. The extract itself is preferably used in powder form, obtainable by drying, preferably spray drying, the aqueous extract.

[0064] Further dyeing processes particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the heartwood of the dyer's mulberry (Madura tinctoria, also Chlorophora tinctoria or Morus tinctoria), wherein the extract was obtained by extraction with water, preferably with water at a temperature of 45-100°C. The extract itself is preferably used in concentrated form, obtainable by partially distilling off the extractant after extraction, as a viscous liquid. Other extracts from the heartwood of the dyer's mulberry that are preferred according to the invention are used in powder form, obtainable by drying, preferably spray drying, the aqueous extract.

[0065] Dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the aqueous dyeing composition (F), in each case based on its weight, contains at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, in a total amount of 0.1 - 20 wt.%, preferably 0.2 - 15 wt.%, particularly preferably 1 - 10 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 2 - 6 wt.%.

[0066] The plant parts and plant part-

[0067] Extracts which contain the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, usually have, based on their weight, a total content of polyphenols of 10 - 100 wt.%, preferably 15 - 95 wt.%, particularly preferably 20 - 80 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 30 - 70 wt.%.

[0068] Dyeing processes which are extraordinarily preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the aqueous dyeing composition (F), in each case based on its weight, contains at least one plant part or plant part extract which contains at least one polyphenol which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, in a total amount of 0.5 - 50 wt.%, preferably 1 - 30 wt.%, particularly preferably 2 - 20 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 5 - 15 wt.%.

[0069] The dyeing processes according to the invention are further characterized in that they do not use hydrogen peroxide and no ions and compounds of metals other than alkali metals and alkaline earth metals.

[0070] The content of metal ions other than alkali metal ions and alkaline earth metal ions, which are present in trace amounts in the water used, is not taken into account here.

[0071] Suitable according to the invention are the salts of alkali metals and alkaline earth metals, in particular the salts of sodium, potassium and magnesium, preferably the salts of sodium and potassium.

[0072] According to the invention, salts and compounds of aluminum, transition metals, and lanthanides are particularly undesirable. These metals, even in their elemental form, are not used in the dyeing processes according to the invention.

[0073] In a preferred embodiment of the dyeing process according to the invention, the desired pH of the aqueous pretreatment composition (PT) is adjusted using a buffer system selected from a mixture of a medium-strength or weak acid with its conjugate or corresponding base (or the respective salt) and a mixture of a medium-strength or weak base with its conjugate or corresponding acid.

[0074] According to the invention, preferred suitable corresponding acid-base pairs are those which stabilize the aqueous pretreatment composition (PT) used according to the invention in the pH range from 7.1 to 13, preferably in the range from 7.6 to 11.0, particularly preferably 8.0 to 10.0, extraordinarily preferably 8.5 to 9.5, in each case measured at 20°C.

[0075] Particularly preferred buffer systems according to the invention for the aqueous pretreatment composition (PT) used according to the invention are selected from

[0076] - ammonia / ammonium salt mixtures, wherein the ammonium salt is preferably selected from ammonium chloride, ammonium bromide, ammonium hydrogen sulfate, ammonium sulfate, ammonium dihydrogen phosphate, diammonium hydrogen phosphate, ammonium phosphate, ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium carbonate, ammonium nitrate, ammonium acetate, ammonium glycolate, ammonium gluconate, ammonium tartrate, ammonium lactate, and mixtures of these ammonium salts, particularly preferably selected from ammonium chloride, ammonium hydrogen sulfate, ammonium sulfate, ammonium dihydrogen phosphate, diammonium hydrogen phosphate, ammonium phosphate, ammonium bicarbonate and ammonium carbonate, extraordinarily preferably selected from ammonium chloride,

[0077] - mixtures of hydrogen phosphate and dihydrogen phosphate, in particular the alkali metal salts of hydrogen phosphate and dihydrogen phosphate, particularly preferably the sodium salts and / or the potassium salts of hydrogen phosphate and dihydrogen phosphate,

[0078] - mixtures of alkali metal bicarbonate with alkali metal carbonate, in particular mixtures of sodium or potassium bicarbonate with sodium or potassium carbonate,

[0079] - Mixtures of citric acid and its salts, in particular the alkali metal citrates, in particular the sodium salts, in particular trisodium citrate,

[0080] - mixtures of tartaric acid and its salts, in particular alkali metal tartrates, in particular potassium salts, in particular potassium hydrogen tartrate,

[0081] - mixtures of phthalic acid and its salts, in particular potassium salts, in particular potassium hydrogen phthalate,

[0082] - mixtures of lactic acid and its salts, in particular lactic acid / sodium lactate mixtures,

[0083] - mixtures of gluconic acid and its salts, in particular gluconic acid / sodium gluconate mixtures,

[0084] - mixtures of succinic acid and its salts, in particular the sodium salts, in particular sodium hydrogen succinate and disodium succinate, and

[0085] - Mixtures of malic acid and its salts, in particular the sodium salts, in particular sodium hydrogen malate and disodium malate.

[0086] Other buffer systems, e.g., acetic acid / sodium acetate, are also suitable in principle according to the invention. However, due to the vinegar odor, such a buffer is not acceptable for the manufacture of a commercial cosmetic product.

[0087] In a further preferred embodiment of the dyeing process according to the invention, the desired pH of the aqueous dyeing composition (F) is adjusted with the aid of a buffer system selected from a mixture of a medium-strength or weak acid with its conjugate or corresponding base (or the respective salt) and a mixture of a medium-strength or weak base with its conjugate or corresponding acid.

[0088] According to the invention, preferred suitable corresponding acid-base pairs are those which stabilize the aqueous dyeing composition (F) used according to the invention in the pH range from 3.0 to 10.5, preferably in the range from 4.0 to 9.5, particularly preferably in the range from 5.0 to 9.0, extraordinarily preferably in the range from 7.1 to 8.0, in each case measured at 20°C.

[0089] Particularly preferred buffer systems according to the invention for the aqueous pretreatment composition (PT) used according to the invention are selected from - mixtures of hydrogen phosphate and dihydrogen phosphate, in particular the alkali metal salts of hydrogen phosphate and dihydrogen phosphate, particularly preferably the sodium salts and / or the potassium salts of hydrogen phosphate and dihydrogen phosphate,

[0090] - mixtures of alkali metal bicarbonate with alkali metal carbonate, in particular mixtures of sodium or potassium bicarbonate with sodium or potassium carbonate,

[0091] - Mixtures of citric acid and its salts, in particular the alkali metal citrates, in particular the sodium salts, in particular trisodium citrate,

[0092] - mixtures of tartaric acid and its salts, in particular alkali metal tartrates, in particular potassium salts, in particular potassium hydrogen tartrate,

[0093] - mixtures of phthalic acid and its salts, in particular potassium salts, in particular potassium hydrogen phthalate,

[0094] - mixtures of lactic acid and its salts, in particular lactic acid / sodium lactate mixtures,

[0095] - mixtures of gluconic acid and its salts, in particular gluconic acid / sodium gluconate mixtures,

[0096] - mixtures of succinic acid and its salts, in particular the sodium salts, in particular sodium hydrogen succinate and disodium succinate,

[0097] - mixtures of malic acid and its salts, in particular the sodium salts, in particular sodium hydrogen malate and disodium malate, and

[0098] - Ammonia / ammonium salt mixtures, wherein the ammonium salt is preferably selected from ammonium chloride, ammonium bromide, ammonium hydrogen sulfate, ammonium sulfate, ammonium dihydrogen phosphate, diammonium hydrogen phosphate, ammonium phosphate, ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium carbonate, ammonium nitrate, ammonium acetate, ammonium glycolate, ammonium gluconate, ammonium tartrate, ammonium lactate, and mixtures of these ammonium salts, particularly preferably selected from ammonium chloride, ammonium hydrogen sulfate, ammonium sulfate, ammonium dihydrogen phosphate, diammonium hydrogen phosphate, ammonium phosphate, ammonium bicarbonate and ammonium carbonate, extremely preferably selected from ammonium chloride.

[0099] In dyeing compositions (F) preferably used according to the invention, the water content is 70-99% by weight, preferably 75-98% by weight, particularly preferably 80-97% by weight, extraordinarily preferably 85-96% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the dyeing composition (F).

[0100] A further feature of the dyeing process according to the invention is that the dyeing composition (F) is allowed to act on the keratin fibers after application thereto for a time of 30 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably 5 to 45 minutes, particularly preferably 20 to 35 minutes, extraordinarily preferably 25 to 30 minutes.

[0101] After the exposure time for the dye composition (F) has elapsed, the keratin fibers are rinsed with water to wash out the dye composition (F).

[0102] Optionally, the keratin fibers can be dried after this rinsing step. This can be done with an absorbent cloth, such as a towel. Towel-dried hair can also be partially or completely dried with a hairdryer or other heat source. It is also possible to let the keratin fibers air dry.

[0103] A further feature of the dyeing process according to the invention is that immediately after rinsing out the composition (PT) and optionally immediately after the optional drying step, an aqueous dyeing composition (F) is applied to the keratin fibers, which has a pH in the range from 3.0 to 10.5, preferably in the range from 4.0 to 9.5, particularly preferably in the range from 5.0 to 9.0, extraordinarily preferably in the range from 7.1 to 8.0, in each case at 20°C (process step e)).

[0104] The term "immediately after" primarily means that no further composition is applied to the keratin fibers between the mandatory process steps c) and e). The term "immediately after" also refers to a period of 1 second to a maximum of 4 hours, preferably 1 minute to 1.5 hours.

[0105] The composition (PT) used according to the invention is free of polyphenols, which

[0106] - are available via the shikimate biosynthesis pathway and have at least 2 hydroxy groups in the molecule and

[0107] - have a molecular weight in the range of 170 to 20,000 g / mol.

[0108] Preferred dyeing methods according to the invention are characterized by the fact that they do not contain hydroxyindolines or dihydroxyindolines. Hydroxyindolines and dihydroxyindolines react with atmospheric oxygen to form melanin or melanin-like color pigments, thus dyeing the hair.

[0109] Further dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that no oxidation dye precursors are used in them. Typical oxidation dye precursors are p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(1,2-dihydroxyethyl)phenol, 4-amino-2-(diethylaminomethyl)phenol, 2-(2,5-diaminophenyl)ethanol, 2-(1,2-dihydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, N-(4-amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1H-imid-azol-1-yl)propyl]amine, N,N'-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis-(4-aminophenyl)-1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis- (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl)methane, 1 ,3-Bis-(2,5-diaminophenoxy)propan-2-ol, N,N'-bis-(4-aminophenyl)-1,4-diazacycloheptane, 1,10-bis-(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-Hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo-[1,2-a]-pyrazol-1-one, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol,3-Amino-2-chlor-6-methylphenol, 2-Hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 5-Amino-4-chlor-2-methylphenol, 5-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-methyl- phenol, 2,4-Dichlor-3-aminophenol, 2-Aminophenol, 3-Phenylendiamin, 2-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)ethanol, 1 ,3-Bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propan, 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethylamino)benzol, 1 ,3-Bis(2,4-di- aminophenyl)propan, 2, 6-Bis(2'-hydroxyethylamino)-1 -methylbenzol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4- methoxy-5-methylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}ami- no)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4,5-dimethylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-[3-Morpholin-4-yl- phenyl)amino]ethanol, 3-Amino-4-(2-methoxyethoxy)-5-methylphenylamin, 1-Amino-3-bis-(2-hydroxy- ethyl)aminobenzol, Resorcin, 2-Methylresorcin, 4-Chlorresorcin, 1 ,2,4-Trihydroxybenzol, 2-Amino-3- hydroxypyridin, 3-Amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridin, 2,6-Dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridin, 3,5- Diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridin, 1-Phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-on, 1-Naphthol, 1 ,5-Dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-Dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-Dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-Dihydroxynaphthalene, 4-Hydroxyindole, 6-Hydroxyindole, 7-Hydroxyindole, 4-Hydroxyindoline, 6-Hydroxyindoline and 7-Hydroxyindoline.

[0110] The pretreatment compositions (PT) and coloring compositions (F) used according to the invention and preferably used according to the invention may optionally contain further additives to optimize the application properties of these compositions. Preferred additives are, in particular, thickeners, which ensure that the coloring compositions (F) and compositions (PT) adhere better to the hair during application.

[0111] Dyeing compositions (F) and compositions (PT) used particularly preferably according to the invention contain at least one or more hydrophilic thickeners, which are preferably selected from polysaccharides that may be chemically and / or physically modified. Compounds from the group of polysaccharides are particularly preferred as hydrophilic thickeners according to the invention, since the basic structures of the polysaccharides are of natural origin and biodegradable.Preferred hydrophilic polysaccharide thickeners are selected from celluloses, cellulose ethers of C1-C4 alcohols, cellulose esters, xanthan gum, alginic acids (and their corresponding physiologically acceptable salts, the alginates), agar agar (with the polysaccharide agarose present in agar agar as the main component), starch fractions and starch derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, karaya gum, locust bean gum, gum arabic, pectins, dextrans and guar gum and mixtures thereof.

[0112] Cellulose ethers of C1-C4 alcohols and cellulose esters preferred according to the invention are selected from methylcelluloses, ethylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses (such as hydroxyethylcellulose), methylhydroxyalkylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses (such as those with the INCI name Cellulose Gum) and their physiologically acceptable salts.

[0113] In preferred embodiments, xanthan gum is included as a hydrophilic thickener for reliable viscosity adjustment and residue-free application to keratin fibers and the scalp. In further preferred embodiments, carboxymethylcellulose (preferably carboxymethylcellulose with the INCI name Cellulose Gum) is included as a hydrophilic thickener for reliable viscosity adjustment and residue-free application to keratin fibers and the scalp. In a preferred embodiment, carboxymethylcellulose can be included as the sole hydrophilic thickener. A combination of carboxymethylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose is particularly preferred.

[0114] A combination of carboxymethylcellulose and xanthan (preferably xanthan with the INCI name Xanthan Gum) may also be preferred according to the invention.

[0115] Particularly preferred dyeing compositions (F) and compositions (PT) according to the invention contain, independently of one another, at least one hydrophilic thickener in a total amount of 0.1 to 5 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 4 wt.%, more preferably 1 to 3.5 wt.% and most preferably 1.2 to 2 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the respective dyeing composition (F) or composition (PT).

[0116] In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the coloring compositions (F) and compositions (PT) used according to the invention contain, in each case based on their weight, independently of one another, 0.1 to 3 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 2.5 wt.%, more preferably 1.2 to 2.0 wt.%, of xanthan gum.

[0117] In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the dyeing compositions (F) and compositions (PT) used according to the invention contain, in each case based on their weight, independently of one another, 0.1 to 4% by weight, preferably 1 to 2.8% by weight, of carboxymethylcellulose.

[0118] In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the coloring compositions (F) and compositions (PT) used according to the invention contain, in each case based on their weight, independently of one another, 0.1 to 3 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 2.5 wt.%, more preferably 1.2 to 2.0 wt.%, of hydroxyethylcellulose.

[0119] Particularly preferred dyeing compositions (F) and compositions (PT) according to the invention independently contain at least one organic solvent having a phenyl group in the molecule. This solvent is preferably selected from phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Surprisingly, it has been found that such aromatic solvents can have a positive effect on the dyeing results of the dyeing process according to the invention; this has been observed in particular when the dyeing composition (F) contains such an aromatic solvent.

[0120] In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the coloring compositions (F) and compositions (PT) used according to the invention contain, in each case based on their weight, independently of one another, 0.1 to 3 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 2.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.8 to 1.0 wt.%, of at least one organic solvent which has a phenyl group in the molecule. In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the coloring compositions (F) and compositions (PT) used according to the invention contain, in each case based on their weight, independently of one another, 0.1 to 3 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 2.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.8 to 1.0 wt.%, of at least one organic solvent selected from phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0121] Particularly preferred dyeing processes according to the invention are characterized in that at least one of the dyeing compositions (F) or compositions (PT) independently of one another contains at least one aliphatic solvent selected from C1-C4 alkyl ols and C2-C4 polyols, in particular selected from ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and 1,3-butylene glycol, and mixtures of these solvents, but only in a total amount of 0.01 - 8% by weight, preferably 0.1 - 6% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 - 4% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the dyeing composition (F) or the composition (PT). Other dyeing processes particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that neither the dyeing composition (F) nor the composition (PT) contain an aliphatic solvent selected from C1-C4 alkanols and C2-C4 polyols.

[0122] In order to make the dyeing compositions (F) and (PT) used according to the invention also sensorially attractive for the user, further dyeing processes which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that at least one of the dyeing compositions (F) or compositions (PT) independently of one another contains at least one perfume oil which contains at least one fragrance compound or odoriferous compound.

[0123] The definition of a fragrance in the sense of this application corresponds to the definition commonly used by those skilled in the art, as can be found in the RÖMPP Chemistry Lexicon, as of December 2007. According to this definition, a fragrance is a chemical compound with odor and / or taste that stimulates the receptors of the hair cells of the olfactory system (adequate stimulus). The necessary physical and chemical properties are a low molecular weight of a maximum of 300 g / mol, a high vapor pressure, minimal water and high lipid solubility, as well as weak polarity and the presence of at least one osmophoric group in the molecule. In order to distinguish volatile, low-molecular substances, which are usually and also in the sense of this application not considered and used as fragrances but primarily as solvents, such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, and acetone, from fragrances according to the invention,Fragrances according to the invention have a molecular weight of 74 to 300 g / mol, contain at least one osmophoric group in the molecule, and exhibit an odor and / or taste, i.e., they stimulate the receptors of the hair cells of the olfactory system. Examples of fragrance and odorant compounds of the ester type are benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate (DMBCA), phenylethyl acetate, benzyl acetate, ethyl methylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallylpropionate, benzyl salicylate, cyclohexyl salicylate, floramat, melusate, and jasmecyclate. Examples of fragrance and odoriferous compounds of the ether type are benzyl ethyl ether and ambroxan, examples of fragrance and odoriferous compounds of the aldehyde type are the linear alkanals with 8 - 18 C atoms, citral, citronella!, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, lilial and bourgeonal,Examples of fragrance and odoriferous compounds of the ketone type are ionones, alpha-isomethyl ionone and methyl cedryl ketone. Examples of fragrance and odoriferous compounds of the alcohol type are anethole, citronellol, eugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol. Examples of fragrance and odoriferous compounds of the terpene type are limonene and pinene. Examples of fragrance and odoriferous compounds are pine, citrus, jasmine, patchouli, rose, ylang-ylang oil, clary sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil, orange blossom oil, neroli oil, orange peel oil and sandalwood oil, as well as essential oils such as angelica root oil, anise oil, arnica flower oil, basil oil, bay oil, bergamot oil, champaca flower oil, silver fir oil, silver fir cone oil, elemi oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, spruce needle oil, geranium oil, gingergrass oil, guaiac wood oil, gurjun balsam oil, helichrysum oil, ho oil,Ginger oil, iris oil, cajuput oil, calamus oil, chamomile oil, camphor oil, kanaga oil, cardamom oil, cassia oil, pine needle oil, copaiba balsam oil, coriander oil, spearmint oil, caraway oil, cumin oil, lavender oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, lemon balm oil, musk seed oil, myrrh oil, clove oil, niaouli oil, orange oil, origanum oil, palmarosa oil, patchouli oil, Peru balsam oil, petitgrain oil, pepper oil, peppermint oil, allspice oil, pine oil, rose oil, rosemary oil, sandalwood oil, celery oil, spike oil, star anise oil, turpentine oil, thuja oil, thyme oil, verbena oil, juniper berry oil, wormwood oil, wintergreen oil, hyssop oil, cinnamon oil, citronella oil, lemon oil and cypress oil. Other fragrance and odorant compounds are ambrettolide, a-amylcinnamaldehyde, anethole, anisaldehyde, anise alcohol, anisole, anthranilic acid methyl ester, acetophenone, benzyl acetone, benzaldehyde, benzoic acid ethyl ester, benzophenone, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, benzyl formate, benzyl valerate, borneol, bornyl acetate, a-bromostyrene, n-decylaldehyde,n-Dodecylaldehyde, Eugenol, Eugenol Methyl Ether, Eucalyptol, Farnesol, Fenchone, Fenchyl Acetate, Geranyl Acetate, Geranyl Formate, Heliotropin, Heptynecarboxylic Acid Methyl Ester, Heptaldehyde, Hydroquinone Dimethyl Ether, Hydroxycinnamaldehyde, Hydroxycinnamyl Alcohol, Indole, Iron, Isoeugenol, Isoeugenol Methyl Ether, Isosafrol, Jasmone, Camphor, Carvacrol, Carvone, p-Cresol Methyl Ether, Coumarin, p-Methoxyacetophenone, Methyl-n-amyl ketone, Methylanthranilic Acid Methyl Ester, p-Methylacetophenone, Methyl Chavicol, p-Methylquinoline, Methyl-ß-naphthyl ketone, Methyl-n-nonylacetaldehyde, Methyl-n-nonyl ketone, Muskone, ß-Naphthol Ethyl Ether, ß-Naphthol Methyl Ether, Nerol, nitrobenzene, n-nonylaldehyde, nonyl alcohol, n-octylaldehyde, p-oxyacetophenone, pentadecanolide, ß-phenylethyl alcohol, phenylacetaldehyde dimethyl acetal, phenylacetic acid, pulegone, safrole, salicylic acid isoamyl ester, salicylic acid methyl ester, salicylic acid hexyl ester, salicylic acid cyclohexyl ester, santalol, skatole, terpineol, thymen, thymol, y-undecalactone,Vanillin, veratrumaldehyde, cinnamaldehyde, cinnamyl alcohol, cinnamic acid, ethyl cinnamate and benzyl cinnamate.

[0124] Other (more volatile) fragrances are alkyl isothiocyanates (alkyl mustard oils), butanedione, limonene, linalool, linalyl acetate and propionate, menthol, menthone, methyl-n-heptenone, phellandrene, phenylacetaldehyde, terpinyl acetate, citral and citronellal.

[0125] It is preferable to use mixtures of different fragrances that together create an appealing scent.

[0126] Suitable perfume oils can also contain natural fragrance mixtures obtained from plant or animal sources, e.g., pine, citrus, jasmine, rose, lily, or ylang-ylang oil. Essential oils of lower volatility, which are usually used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g., sage oil, chamomile oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, laudanum oil, clove oil, iso-eugenol, thyme oil, bergamot oil, geranium oil, and rose oil.

[0127] Compositions (PT) and coloring compositions (F) used with exceptional preference according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, independently of one another, at least one fragrance in a total amount of 0.01 - 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 - 3% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 - 2% by weight, exceptionally preferably 1 - 1.5% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the composition (PT) or the coloring composition (F).The present invention further relates to a kit for the non-oxidative coloring of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, with natural dyes, comprising a) an aqueous ammonia-containing composition (PT) which has a pH in the range from 7.1 to 13, preferably in the range from 7.6 to 11.0, particularly preferably 8.0 to 10.0, extraordinarily preferably 8.5 to 9.5, in each case measured at 20°C, and b) an aqueous coloring composition (F) which has a pH in the range from 3.0 to 10.5, preferably in the range from 4.0 to 9.5, particularly preferably in the range from 5.0 to 9.0, extraordinarily preferably in the range from 7.1 to 8.0, in each case at 20°C, wherein the coloring composition (F) contains at least one polyphenol which.

[0128] - is available via the shikimate biosynthesis pathway and

[0129] - has at least 2 hydroxy groups in the molecule and

[0130] - has a molecular weight in the range of 170 to 20,000 g / mol; none of the components of the kit contains hydrogen peroxide or ions and compounds of metals other than alkali metals and alkaline earth metals.

[0131] With regard to further preferred embodiments of the kits according to the invention, what has been said regarding the methods according to the invention and the compositions (PT) and dye compositions (F) used according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

[0132] Examples of implementation

[0133] The exemplary embodiments presented below are intended to explain the subject matter of the invention in more detail without limiting it thereto.

[0134] Attempts to improve the color intensity of the achieved coloration

[0135] Production of hair strands colored according to the invention

[0136] As an example of the dyeing process according to the invention, the following pretreatment composition (PT) and the following dyeing composition (F) were prepared:

[0137] Table 1: Pretreatment composition (PT) used according to the invention Table 2: Dye composition (F) used according to the invention

[0138] * The following was used as dyewood extract:

[0139] * “Otto Dille” logwood extract (Haematoxylum campechianum)-, powdered hot water extract from the heartwood of Haematoxylum campechianum, pH value of the 10 wt.% solution in water: 5.5 ± 1.0

[0140] Source: Baeck GmbH & Co. KG, DE-22844 Norderstedt

[0141] The coloring was performed on strands of completely unpigmented Caucasian hair from Kerling International Haarfabrik GmbH (Backnang, Germany). The strands were 10 cm long, of which 8 cm were available for coloring. The remaining 2 cm at the top of the strands were used for attachment. Each strand weighed 0.62 ± 0.05 grams.

[0142] The hair strands were treated for 15 minutes in the pretreatment composition (PT) used according to the invention (125 ml / g strand) and then rinsed for 30 seconds under running deionized water with 20 combing strokes.

[0143] The hair strands were then dried with a commercially available hair dryer at a defined distance (d = 10 cm) and a defined temperature (T = 80 ± 5 °C) with 20 combs.

[0144] Immediately after completion of the drying process, the hair strands were treated for 30 minutes in the dye composition (F) used according to the invention (100 ml / g strand) and then rinsed for one minute under running deionized water with 20 combing cycles.

[0145] The hair strands were then dried with a commercially available hair dryer at a defined distance (d = 10 cm) and a defined temperature (T = 80 ± 5 °C) with 20 combs.

[0146] Determination of the improvement in color intensity by ammonia pretreatment by spectrophotometric measurements

[0147] All colorimetric measurements were performed using the Spectraflash SF 600 colorimetric device from Datacolor.

[0148] A D65 illuminant and a diffuse / 8° optical configuration were used for the spectrophotometer measurements. The spectral reflectance data for each sample from 380 nm to 700 nm were converted into colorimetric data using DCI Color software. Reflectance measurements were determined for each hair sample, with the average of four measurements recorded. The color difference (AE) between the dyed strand without ammonia pretreatment and the dyed strand pretreated with ammonia was calculated according to the following formula:

[0149] Lv, av, bv: Colorimetric values ​​without ammonia pretreatment

[0150] Ln, an, bn: Colorimetric values ​​with ammonia pretreatment

[0151] Table 3: L*, a*, b*, AE values ​​of logwood stains (2 wt.%, 30 minutes, pH 8) without and with ammonia pretreatment at pH 9.25

[0152] Mean values ​​± standard deviation (SD), AE values ​​refer to the color values ​​of the staining without pretreatment, n=4

[0153] The reduction in the L* value indicates an intensification of the coloration due to pretreatment with ammonia.

[0154] The increase in the color difference AE between the colored, untreated strand and the colored, pretreated strand also indicates an intensification of the color due to the pretreatment with ammonia.

[0155] Pretreatment in 1 M ammonia solution results in a more uniform, darker, more intense coloration compared to the coloration without pretreatment.

Claims

Patent claims 1. A process for the non-oxidative dyeing of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, with natural dyes, comprising the following process steps in the specified order: a) applying an aqueous ammonia-containing composition (PT) having a pH value in the range of 7.1 to 13, preferably in the range of 7.6 to 11.0, particularly preferably 8.0 to 10.0, and most preferably 8.5 to 9.5, in each case measured at 20°C, to the keratin fibers; b) allowing it to act for a time of 30 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably 5 to 45 minutes, and particularly preferably 15 to 30 minutes; c) rinsing the keratin fibers with water; d) optionally drying the keratin fibers; e) immediately thereafter applying an aqueous dyeing composition (F) having a pH value in the range of 3.0 to 10.5, preferably in the range of 4.0 to 9.5, particularly preferably in the range of 5.0 to 9.0, extremely preferably in the range of 7.1 to 8.0, each at 20°C, hason the keratin fibers, wherein the dye composition (F) contains at least one polyphenol which, - is available via the shikimate biosynthesis pathway and has at least 2 hydroxy groups in the molecule and - has a molar mass in the range of 170 to 20,000 g / mol; furthermore f) allowing to act for a time of 30 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably 5 to 45 minutes, particularly preferably 20 to 35 minutes, extraordinarily preferably 25 to 30 minutes, g) rinsing the keratin fibers with water, h) optionally drying the keratin fibers, wherein no hydrogen peroxide and no ions and compounds of metals other than alkali metals and alkaline earth metals are used in the process.

2. Dyeing process according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least one polyphenol is selected from tannins and pseudotannins as well as mixtures thereof.

3. Dyeing process according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is obtained from at least one plant selected from Haematoxylum brasiletto L (Brazilian bloodwood tree), Haematoxylum campechianum (bloodwood tree, logwood tree, Campech tree), Camellia sinensis, Acacia spp., in particular Acacia mollissima, Acacia negra and Acacia dealbata, Olea europaea (olive tree), Schinopsis lorentzii, Aspidosperma quebracho-blanco, Rubiaceae, Coffea arabica L, Rheum spp., in particular Rheum palmatum, Pinus spp., Picea spp., Vitis vinifera, Lawsonia inermis (red henna), Quercus spp. (Oak), especially Quercus macro- lepsis, Curcuma longa, Juglans spp., in particular Juglans nigra and Juglans regia, the tara tree (Tara spinosa, Cesalpinia spinosa, Caesalpinia tinctoria), chestnut (Castanea sativa), borage (Rhus coriaria), smoke tree (Rhus cotinus, Cotinus coggygria) and Madura tinctoria (dyer's mulberry) as well as mixtures thereof. Dyeing process according to claim 3, characterized in that the at least one polyphenol, which is preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, is used in the form of an extract from the heartwood of the Brazilian logwood tree (Haematoxylum campechianum, logwood tree, Campeche tree). Dyeing process according to claim 4, characterized in that the extract from the heartwood of the Brazilian bloodwood tree (Haematoxylum campechianum) was obtained by extraction with water, preferably with water at a temperature of 45 - 100 °C.A dyeing process according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the aqueous composition (PT) contains ammonia (NH3) in an amount of 0.1–5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.7–4.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 1.0–3.5 wt.%, and most preferably 1.4–2.0 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition (PT). A dyeing process according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the aqueous composition (PT) contains water in an amount of 70–98 wt.%, preferably 75–95 wt.%, particularly preferably 80–92 wt.%, and most preferably 85–90 wt.%, based on its weight. Dyeing process according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the aqueous composition (PT) for pH adjustment comprises a buffer system selected from a mixture of a medium-strength or weak acid with its conjugated or corresponding base (orof the respective salt) and a mixture of a moderately strong or weak base with its conjugated or corresponding acid, wherein preferably at least one ammonium salt is included, selected from ammonium chloride, ammonium bromide, ammonium hydrogen sulfate, ammonium sulfate, ammonium dihydrogen phosphate, diammonium hydrogen phosphate, ammonium phosphate, ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium carbonate, ammonium nitrate, ammonium acetate, ammonium glycolate, ammonium gluconate, ammonium tartrate, ammonium lactate, and mixtures of these ammonium salts, preferably selected from ammonium chloride, ammonium hydrogen sulfate, ammonium sulfate, ammonium dihydrogen phosphate, diammonium hydrogen phosphate, ammonium phosphate, ammonium bicarbonate and ammonium carbonate, and mixtures of these ammonium salts, most preferably selected from ammonium chloride. A dyeing process according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the aqueous dyeing composition (F) contains a buffer system for pH adjustment, selected from a mixture of a moderately strong or weak acid with its conjugated or corresponding base (or the respective salt) and a mixture of a moderately strong or weak base with its conjugated or corresponding acid, wherein a hydrogen phosphate / dihydrogen phosphate mixture is preferably included as the buffer. A dyeing process according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the aqueous dyeing composition (F) contains the at least one polyphenol, preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, in a total amount of 0.1–20 wt.%, preferably 0.2–15 wt.%, particularly preferably 1–10 wt.%, and most preferably 2–6 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the dyeing composition (F).A dyeing process according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the aqueous composition (F), based on its weight, contains at least one plant part or plant part extract containing at least one polyphenol, preferably selected from tannins and pseudotannins, in a total amount of 0.5–50 wt.%, preferably 1–30 wt.%, particularly preferably 2–20 wt.%, and most preferably 5–15 wt.%. A dyeing process according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the aqueous dyeing composition (F), based on its weight, contains water in an amount of 70–99 wt.%, preferably 75–98 wt.%, particularly preferably 80–97 wt.%, and most preferably 85–96 wt.%.Dyeing process according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that at least one of the composition (PT) or composition (F) independently contains at least one aliphatic solvent selected from Ci-C4 alkanols and C2-C4 polyols, in particular ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and 1,3-butylene glycol, as well as mixtures of these solvents, in a total amount of 0.01 - 8 wt.%, preferably 0.1 - 6 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 - 4 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition (PT) or the weight of the composition (F).Kit for the non-oxidative dyeing of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, with natural dyes, comprising a) an aqueous ammonia-containing composition (PT) having a pH in the range of 7.1 to 13, preferably in the range of 7.6 to 11.0, particularly preferably 8.0 to 10.0, exceptionally preferably 8.5 to 9.5, each measured at 20°C, and b) an aqueous dyeing composition (F) having a pH in the range of 3.0 to 10.5, preferably in the range of 4.0 to 9.5, particularly preferably in the range of 5.0 to 9.

0. preferably in the range of 7.1 to 8.0, each at 20°C, wherein the dye composition (F) contains at least one polyphenol which - is available via the Shikimat biosynthesis pathway and - has at least 2 hydroxy groups in the molecule and - having a molar mass in the range of 170 to 20,000 g / mol; wherein none of the components of the kit contain hydrogen peroxide or ions and compounds of metals other than alkali metals and alkaline earth metals. Kit according to claim 14, characterized in that the aqueous composition (PT) and the aqueous composition (F) are configured as in any one of claims 2 to 13.

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