Composition comprising AHA and / or BHA stabilized by a combination of mono or dialkylisosorbide, polyethylene glycol ether and polypropylene glycol and two polyoxyethylenated, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated vegetable oils

Abstract

Composition comprising AHAs and / or BHAs stabilized by a combination of mono or dialkylisosorbide, polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol ether and two polyoxyethylenated, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated vegetable oils The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic or dermatological, comprising: at least one hydroxy acid chosen from α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, and mixtures thereof; at least one mono or dialkylisosorbide, the alkyl group comprising from 1 to 5 carbon atoms; at least one polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol ether of formula (I) CnH2n+1(OCH(CH3)CH2)x(OCH2CH2)yOH (I); at least one first polyoxyethylenated, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated vegetable oil and at least one second polyoxyethylenated, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated vegetable oil; said first and second polyoxyethylenated vegetable oils being distinct from one another;a physiologically acceptable medium comprising at least water; said composition having an acidic pH. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method comprising the application of said composition to keratin materials as well as the cosmetic use of said composition for skin care.;

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising AH A and / or BHA stabilized by a combination of mono or dialkylisosorbide, polyethylene glycol ether and polypropylene glycol and two polyoxyethylenated, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated vegetable oils

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic or dermatological care compositions for keratin materials, in particular the skin. The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising AHAs and / or BHAs stabilized by a combination of mono or dialkylisosorbide, polyethylene glycol ether and polypropylene glycol and two polyoxyethylenated, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated vegetable oils, a cosmetic treatment method comprising a step of applying said composition to keratin materials, preferably the skin, as well as its use for the care of keratin materials, preferably the skin.

[0002] It is known to use as active ingredients, in cosmetic or dermatological compositions, acidic agents such as hydroxy acids. These active ingredients are used in particular for facial and / or body care and more specifically to give the face a luminous and radiant complexion and therefore a healthy glow, a smooth and younger appearance, to treat wrinkles and fine lines of the skin, to depigment the skin and in particular to remove spots appearing with aging, as well as to make comedones disappear.

[0003] The compositions conventionally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields are water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions, oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions, or aqueous gels, in which it is often difficult, or even impossible, to incorporate organic acid active ingredients, because these tend to destabilize the compositions containing them.

[0004] Indeed, these acid active ingredients generally tend to recrystallize or degrade. This results in a more or less significant loss of effectiveness of these compositions, depending on the degree of recrystallization and / or degradation, which goes against the desired objective. In addition, this recrystallization or degradation can modify the overall stability of these compositions as well as their appearance and consistency (loss of viscosity and fluidification), which can put the user off these compositions with specific treatment.

[0005] There therefore remains a need for a stable composition in the form of an aqueous gel or an emulsion, usable in particular in the cosmetic and / or dermatological fields, and allowing sufficient incorporation of the active acids gene- commonly used in these areas for maximum efficiency, while maintaining good stability.

[0006] The applicant has surprisingly discovered that a combination of mono or dialkylisosorbide, polyethylene glycol ether and polypropylene glycol of formula (I) below and polyoxyethylenated, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated vegetable oils makes it possible to obtain cosmetic or dermatological compositions comprising one or more hydroxy acids which are stable over time at room temperature as well as at temperatures of 4°C or 45°C for 2 months.

[0007] The composition according to the invention has in particular, in addition to the aforementioned good stability properties, good sensory properties, in particular the absence of a sticky sensation after application.

[0008] Thus, the present invention has as its first object a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising:

[0009] at least one hydroxy acid chosen from α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, and mixtures thereof;

[0010] at least one mono or dialkylisosorbide, the alkyl group comprising from 1 to 5 carbon atoms;

[0011] at least one ether of polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol of formula (I):

[0012] [Chem 1] CnH2n+1(OCH(CH3)CH2)x(OCH2CH2)yOH (I),

[0013] in which: - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 24, preferably ranging from 4 to 22, even better ranging from 4 to 18, even more preferably ranging from 4 to 12, such as 4; - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 40, preferably from 2 to 30, even better from 10 to 30, such as 26; - y is an integer ranging from 1 to 40, preferably ranging from 2 to 30, even better ranging from 10 to 30, such as 26;

[0014] at least one first polyoxyethylenated vegetable oil, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, and at least one second polyoxyethylenated vegetable oil, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated; said first and second polyoxyethylenated vegetable oils being distinct from one another;

[0015] a physiologically acceptable medium comprising at least water;

[0016] said composition having an acidic pH.

[0017] The present invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising a step of applying said composition to the keratin materials, preferably the skin.

[0018] The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of said composition for the care of keratin materials, preferably the skin.

[0019] Definition

[0020] In the present application, the term “physiologically acceptable medium” means a medium compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin including the scalp, nails, mucous membranes, eyes and hair or any other skin area of ​​the body.

[0021] Said physiologically acceptable medium comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible organic solvents which may be chosen from linear or branched C1-C6 monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol (or 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), and polyethylene glycols; polyol ethers such as dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether; and mixtures thereof.

[0022] Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a water content ranging from 20% to 95% by weight, even better from 40% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more water-miscible organic solvents in a content ranging from 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight.

[0024] The term "acid pH" means a pH lower than 6, preferably equal to or lower than 5, even better chosen in the range from 2 to 5 such as 3.8. Beyond the pH value of 6, the formulation of acid active agents no longer presents any difficulties since the acid is generally completely neutralized.

[0025] “Good stability properties” or “stable composition” means a clear composition and / or absence of a border, not exhibiting any recrystallization phenomenon at room temperature (25°C), and / or at 4°C and / or at 45°C for a period of 2 months. Detailed description of the invention

[0026] Composition

[0027] The present invention has as its first object a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising:

[0028] at least one hydroxy acid chosen from α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, and mixtures thereof;

[0029] at least one mono or dialkylisosorbide, the alkyl group comprising from 1 to 5 carbon atoms;

[0030] at least one ether of polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol of formula (I):

[0031] [Chem 1] CnH2n+1(OCH(CH3)CH2)x(OCH2CH2)yOH (I),

[0032] in which: - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 24, preferably ranging from 4 to 22, even better ranging from 4 to 18, even more preferably ranging from 4 to 12, such as 4; - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 40, preferably from 2 to 30, even better from 10 to 30, such as 26; - y is an integer ranging from 1 to 40, preferably ranging from 2 to 30, even better ranging from 10 to 30, such as 26;

[0033] at least one first polyoxyethylenated, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated vegetable oil and at least one second polyoxyethylenated, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated vegetable oil; said first and second polyoxyethylenated vegetable oils being distinct from each other;

[0034] a physiologically acceptable medium comprising at least water;

[0035] said composition having an acidic pH.

[0036] Hydroxy acids

[0037] Advantageously, the α-hydroxy acids are chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, mandelic acid, and mixtures thereof, even better the α-hydroxy acids are chosen from citric acid, glycolic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0038] Advantageously, the [3-hydroxy-acids] are chosen from salicylic acid and salicylic acid derivatives of the following formula (II):

[0039] [Chem 2]

[0040] in which:

[0041] the radical Ra denotes: - an aliphatic chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, saturated, linear, branched or cyclic; - an unsaturated chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds which can be conjugated; - an aromatic nucleus linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms; - said groups may be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from: (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0042] Rb is a hydroxyl group;

[0043] as well as their salts derived from a mineral or organic base and their mixtures.

[0044] According to one embodiment, the radical Ra denotes: - a saturated, linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 11 carbon atoms; or - an unsaturated chain containing from 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or more conjugated or unconjugated double bonds; - said hydrocarbon chains may be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from: (a) halogen atoms; (b) the trifluoromethyl group; (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; - as well as their salts obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base.

[0045] The more particularly preferred compounds are those in which the radical Ra is a C3-C11 alkyl group. Among the particularly preferred compounds of formula (II), mention may be made of: n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid); n-decanoyl-5-salicylic acid; n-dodecanoyl-5-salicylic acid; n-heptyloxy-5-salicylic acid and their corresponding salts.

[0046] The salicylic acid compound is advantageously chosen from salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid. More particularly, n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid will be used. N-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid) is offered under the name MEXORYL SAB® by CHIMEX.

[0047] Examples of mineral bases include alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or ammonia. Among organic bases, amines and alkanolamines may be mentioned. Quaternary salts such as those described in patent FR 2 607 498 are particularly interesting. The compounds of formula (II) which can be used according to the invention are described in patents US 6,159,479, US 5,558,871, FR 2,581,542, FR 2 607 498, US 4,767,750, EP 378,936, US 5,267,407, US 5,667,789, US 5,580,549, and EP A-570,230.

[0048] The hydroxy acid(s), α-hydroxy acid(s) and / or |3-hydroxy acid(s), may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 4% to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, even better ranging from 5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0049] In a preferred embodiment the hydroxy acids are present in the form of a mixture of α-hydroxy acid(s) and |3-hydroxy acid(s). Even more preferably the mixture of α-hydroxy acid(s) and |3-hydroxy acid(s) comprises: - at least one α-hydroxy acid present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 2% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 3% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, even better ranging from 4% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example 4.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - at least one [3-hydroxy-acid] present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] Mono or dialkylisosorbide

[0051] Advantageously, the mono or dialkylisosorbide, the alkyl group comprising from 1 to 5 carbon atoms is dimethyl isosorbide. Mention may be made in particular of dimethyl isosorbide sold under the trade name ARLASOLVE DMI-PC-LQ-(AP) by the company CRODA or DOTTISOL 08820.018 sold by the company DOTTIKON EXCLUSIVE SYNTHESIS.

[0052] Said mono or dialkylisosorbide may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] Polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol ether

[0054] Advantageously, said polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol ether of formula I is chosen from cetyl alcohol oxyethylenated with 20 oxyethylene units and oxypropylenated with 5 oxypropylene units such as the product sold under the name PROCETYL AWS® by the company Croda, butyl alcohol oxyethylenated with 26 oxyethylene units and oxypropylenated with 26 oxypropylene units such as the product sold under the name PPG-26-BUTETH-26® by the company Goldschmidt, decyl-tetra-decanol oxyethylenated with 30 oxyethylene units and oxypropylenated with 6 oxypropylene units such as the product sold under the name NIKKOL PEN-4630® by the company Nikkol, lauryl alcohol oxyethylenated with 25 oxyethylene units and oxypropylenated with 25 oxypropylene units such as the product sold under the name ADF-OLEILE® by the Vevy company, and their blends, even better,butyl alcohol oxyethylenated with 26 oxyethylene units and oxypropylenated with 26 oxypropylene units.

[0055] Said polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol ether of formula I may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0056] Two polyoxyethylenated vegetable oils, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated

[0057] Advantageously, the first polyoxyethylene, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated vegetable oil comprises from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units, preferably from 30 to 50 oxyethylene units, such as 40 oxyethylene units.

[0058] Even better, the first polyoxyethylene vegetable oil is a hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyoxyethylene castor oil comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units, preferably from 30 to 50 oxyethylene units.

[0059] Even more preferably, the first polyoxyethylene vegetable oil is a polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil comprising 40 oxyethylene units such as 40 oxyethylene units, such as that marketed under the name SOLUBILISANT LRI from SENSIENT.

[0060] Said first polyoxyethylenated, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated vegetable oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example 0.7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0061] Advantageously, the second polyoxyethylene, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated vegetable oil comprises from 51 to 100 oxyethylene units, preferably from 55 to 70 oxyethylene units, such as 60 oxyethylene units.

[0062] Even better, the second polyoxyethylene vegetable oil is a hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyoxyethylene castor oil comprising from 51 to 100 oxyethylene units, preferably from 55 to 70 oxyethylene units.

[0063] Even more preferably, the second polyoxyethylene vegetable oil is a polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil comprising 60 oxyethylene units, such as 60 oxyethylene units such as that marketed under the name EMULSOGEN HCO 060 from CLARIANT.

[0064] Said second polyoxyethylenated, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated vegetable oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 0.4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0065] Polysaccharide

[0066] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one polysaccharide.

[0067] A polysaccharide used according to the present invention may, in addition, or alter- natively, present in linear or branched form.

[0068] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “branched” designates a polymer of which at least one saccharide unit and / or one polysaccharide sequence is attached laterally to the main chain.

[0069] In the context of the present invention, the terms “radical” or “unit” will be used indifferently to designate a monosaccharide or derivative unit, forming a polysaccharide used according to the invention.

[0070] As saccharide units or radicals, mention may be made, for example, in addition to fucose, glucose and glucuronic acid, of galacturonic acid, of trioses such as ketotrioses (dihydroxyacetone), aldotrioses (glyceraldehyde); tetroses such as ketotetroses (erythrulose), aldotetrose (erythrose, threose); pentoses such as ketopentoses (ribulose, xylulose), aldopentose (arabinose, lyxose, ribose, xylose), deoxyose (deoxyribose); hexoses such as ketohexoses (fructose, psicose, sorbose, tagatose), aldohexoses (allose, altrose, galactose, gulose, idose, mannose, talose), deoxyoses (fuculose, pneumose, quinovose, rhamnose); heptoses (glucoheptose, idoheptulose, mannoheptulose, sedoheptulose, taloheptulose) or octoses or their derivatives.

[0071] By derivatives of a saccharide unit is meant a unit as defined above, having also undergone a chemical modification resulting in the presence of additional chemical groups and / or in the absence of chemical groups initially present within the monosaccharide considered. In this respect, we can for example cite galacturonic acid, derived from galactose, oxidized on its carbon number 6.

[0072] Advantageously, the saccharide units used within a saccharide polymer according to the invention can form a saccharide sequence which is repeated within said polymer.

[0073] Preferably, the polysaccharide(s) is(are) present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] In a first embodiment, a polysaccharide used according to the present invention is an anionic polysaccharide containing fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid.

[0075] Preferably, a polysaccharide used according to the present invention is an anionic polysaccharide comprising at least three saccharide units or derivatives thereof, including at least one of fucose type, one of galactose type and one of galacturonic acid type, these units being linked together by O-osidic bonds.

[0076] More preferably, a polysaccharide used according to the present invention is a anionic polysaccharide containing L-fucose, D-galactose and galacturonic acid.

[0077] Even better, a saccharide polymer which is particularly suitable according to the present invention is formed solely of fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid units.

[0078] Such a polymer is notably marketed under the name Fucogel powder® (INCI name: Biosaccharide Gum-1), marketed by the company SOLABIA.

[0079] In a second embodiment, a polysaccharide used according to the present invention is a cationic polysaccharide, in particular celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0080] Cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups described in French patent 1,492,597, and in particular the polymers marketed under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company NALCO. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

[0081] Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in US patent 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylmidopropyl trimethylammonium, dimethyl-diallylammonium.

[0082] The marketed products meeting this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.

[0083] Cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, in particular guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with a salt (e.g., chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium are used.

[0084] Such products are marketed in particular under the trade names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company MEYHALL.

[0085] In a third embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic polysaccharide as described above in association with a po- cationic lysaccharide as described above.

[0086] Preferably in this third embodiment, said anionic polysaccharide is a polysaccharide containing fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid such as that marketed under the name Fucogel powder® (INCI name: Bio-saccharide Gum-1), marketed by the company SOLABIA and said cationic polysaccharide is a hydroxyethylcellulose crosslinked with epichlorohydrin quaternized by trimethylamine (polyquatemium 10) such as that marketed under the name JR 30M by the company DOW CHEMICAL.

[0087] More preferably in this embodiment, said anionic polysaccharide is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 0.4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and said cationic polysaccharide is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.3% to 0.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0088] In order for the cosmetic or dermatological compositions of the invention to be more pleasant to use (softer to apply, more nourishing, more emollient), it is possible to add an oily phase (or fatty phase) to the medium of these compositions.

[0089] This oily phase contains one or more oils, namely organic substances that are liquid at room temperature (20 to 25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

[0090] When present, the oily phase preferably represents from 0.1% to 50% of the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 1 to 30% and even more preferably from 5 to 20% of the total weight of the composition.

[0091] Examples of oils that can be used in the composition of the invention include: - animal - derived hydrocarbon oils, such as perhydrosqualene; - Hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, distinct from the two polyoxyethylenated hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or also, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, araca oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; - Synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R10R2 in which RI represents the residue of a fatty acid having from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isonanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-dodecyl octyl stearate, 2-dodecyl octyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxy stearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil; - fatty alcohols having 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyl dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol; - partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; - silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; - their mixtures.

[0092] In the list of oils cited above, the term “hydrocarbon oil” means any oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly ester, ether, fluorine, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

[0093] Other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes; gums such as silicone gums (dimethiconol); silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-Cl-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products marketed under the names “KSG” by Shin-Etsu, under the names “Trefil”, “BY29” or “EPSX” by Dow Corning or under the names “Gransil” by Grant Industries.

[0094] These fatty substances can be chosen in a variety of ways by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example consistency or texture.

[0095] In a known manner, the compositions of the invention may contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, other conventional aqueous or lipophilic gelling agents and / or thickeners; hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents; preservatives; antioxidants; perfumes; moisturizing agents; depigmenting agents; keratolytic agents; emulsifiers; vitamins; emollients; sequestering agents; surfactants; polymers; alkalizing or acidifying agents; fillers; free radical scavengers; ceramides; sunscreens (particularly ultraviolet); insect repellents; slimming agents; coloring materials (such as pigments, soluble dyes or pearlescent agents); bactericides; anti-dandruff agents. The quantities of these different adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields considered.

[0096] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible compound(s) to be added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0097] The compositions according to the invention may be presented in any form suitable for topical application, in particular in the form of solutions of the lotion or serum type, in the form of aqueous gels, hydroalcoholic gel, in the form of emulsions obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or vice versa (W / O) or in the form of multiple emulsions (O / W / O or W / O / W), of liquid or semi-liquid consistency such as milks, more or less creamy creams, cream gels, pastes. They may optionally be packaged as an aerosol and be presented in the form of a mousse or spray. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

[0098] The composition of the invention may have a viscosity adapted to the product that one wishes to obtain. This viscosity can range, for example, from 5 to 50 poises (0.5 to 5 Pa.s), more particularly from 10 to 20 poises, measured at ambient temperature (about 25°C) with a Rheomat 180 using a rotor 2, at 200 s-1.

[0099] When the composition is an emulsion, the oily phase contains one or more oils and optionally other fatty substances, as described above. The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion can range, for example, from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The aqueous phase represents the balance to 100% by weight.

[0100] Advantageously, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the emulsions prepared with the polymers according to the invention can be free of emulsifiers, while being stable during storage, whatever the temperature (for example between 5 and 50°C).

[0101] Thus, the compositions of the invention can be used as care and / or hygiene products, such as protective, treatment or care creams for the face, for the hands or for the body, protective or care body milks, lotions, gels or mousses for the care of the skin and mucous membranes or for cleaning or exfoliating the skin.

[0102] Cosmetic treatment process

[0103] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising a step of applying the composition according to the invention to the keratin materials, preferably the skin.

[0104] Cosmetic use

[0105] The present invention further relates to the cosmetic use of the composition according to the invention for the care of keratin materials, preferably the skin.

[0106] The composition according to the invention can be used in many cosmetic or dermatological applications where the presence of acid active ingredients is useful, in particular it can be used for the treatment, care of the skin of the face and / or body, of the mucous membranes (lips), of the scalp, for example to give the face a luminous and radiant complexion, a healthy glow, a smooth and younger appearance, to treat wrinkles and fine lines of the skin, to depigment the skin and in particular to remove age spots, to make comedones disappear.

[0107] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "at least one" must be understood as being synonymous with "one or more" unless otherwise specified.

[0108] The expressions “more than”, “between ... and …” and “ranging from ... to …” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0109] The following examples and figures are presented for illustrative and non-limiting purposes of the invention. The compounds are, as appropriate, cited by chemical names or CTFA (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook) names. Examples

[0110] Comparative study of the stability of the composition according to the invention No. 1 compared to the compositions outside the invention No. 2, No. 3, and No. 4.

[0111] The 4 gel-type compositions below were prepared.

[0112] [Tables 1] INCI EU name Composition 1 according to the invention (m / m) Composition 2 excluding invention (m / m) Composition 3 excluding invention (m / m) Composition 4 excluding invention (m / m) PH ADJUSTER 0.86 0.86 0.86 0.86 ACTIVE 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 PEG-60 OIL HYDROGENATED CASTOR (EMUESOGEN HCO 060, from CLARIANT) 0.30 1.00 0 1.00 SALICYLIC ACID (SALICYLIC ACID from JQC (HUAYIN) PHARMACEUTICAL) 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 PERFUME 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 MISCIBLE ORGANIC SOLVENT A WATER 20.00 20.00 20.00 20.00 POLYQUATERNIUM-10 (UCARE POLYMER JR 30 M from AMERCHOL (DOW CHEMICAL)) 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 PPG-26-BUTETH-26 (and) PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL (SOLUBILIZER LRI from SENSIENT) 2.00 0.50 0.50 0 CAPRYLOYL SALICYLIC ACID (MEXORYL SAB from NOVEAL) 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 SURFACTANT 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 DIMETHYL ISOSORBIDE (ARLASOLVE DMI-PC-LQ-(AP) from 2.00 0 2.00 2.00 CRODA) GLYCOLIC ACID (GLYPURE 70 from CHEMOURS) 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 SEQUESTRATING AGENT 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-1 (FUCOGEL POWDER from SOLABIA) 0.30 0.22 0.22 0.22 CITRIC ACID (CITRIC ACID MONOHYDRATE GRANULAR from CITRIQUE BELGIUM) 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 PRESERVATIVES qs. qs. qs. qs. WATER qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100

[0113] Manufacturing process:

[0114] Homogenize the aqueous phase at room temperature with standardized stirring and check the good solubilization of all raw materials

[0115] Gel this aqueous phase then add the phase containing the AHA / BHA.

[0116] Finally, add the pH adjuster.

[0117] The macroscopic + / - clear appearance and the presence / absence of crystals at room temperature, 4°C, 45°C were evaluated for each of the above compositions by naked eye analysis.

[0118] [T ables 2] Appearance 4°CT amb (25°C) 45°C Composition n°4 outside the invention Clear Clear Cloudy + border Composition n°3 outside the invention Numerous crystals Clear Clear Composition n°2 outside the invention A few crystals Clear Slightly cloudy + border Composition n°1 according to the invention Clear Clear Slightly cloudy and no border

[0119] Results: Composition No. 1 according to the invention remains stable in each of the conditions tested, unlike compositions outside the invention No. 2, No. 3 and No. 4 for which the presence of crystals and / or a border that is prohibitive for use by consumers is observed.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition, preferably cosmetic or dermatological, comprising: i. at least one hydroxy acid chosen from α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, and mixtures thereof; ii. at least one mono or dialkylisosorbide, the alkyl group comprising from 1 to 5 carbon atoms; iii. at least one polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol ether of formula (I): CnH2n+1(OCH(CH3)CH2)x(OCH2CH2)yOH (I), in which: a. n is an integer ranging from 1 to 24, preferably ranging from 4 to 22, even better ranging from 4 to 18, even more preferably ranging from 4 to 12, such as 4; b. x is an integer ranging from 1 to 40, preferably from 2 to 30, even better from 10 to 30, such as 26; c. y is an integer ranging from 1 to 40, preferably from 2 to 30, even better from 10 to 30, such as 26; i. at least one first polyoxyethylene vegetable oil, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, and at least one second polyoxyethylene vegetable oil, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated; said first and second polyoxyethylene vegetable oils being distinct from each other; ii. a physiologically acceptable medium comprising at least water; iii. said composition having an acidic pH.

2.

3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the α-hydroxy acids are selected from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, mandelic acid, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the [3-hydroxy-acids] are chosen from salicylic acid and salicylic acid derivatives of the following formula (II): (II), O in which: i. the radical Ra denotes: a. an aliphatic chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, saturated, linear, branched or cyclic; b. an unsaturated chain having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds which may be conjugated; c. an aromatic nucleus linked to the carbonyl radical directly or through saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms; said groups being able to be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, chosen from: (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; i. Rb is a hydroxyl group; as well as their salts from a mineral or organic base and their mixtures.

4. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein said mono or dialkylisosorbide is dimethylisosorbide.

5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol ether of formula I is selected from cetyl alcohol oxyethylenated with 20 oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated units with 5 oxypropylene units, butyl alcohol oxyethylenated with 26 oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated units with 26 oxypropylene units, decyl-tetra-decanol oxyethylenated with 30 oxyethylene units and oxypropylenated with 6 oxypropylene units, lauryl alcohol oxyethylenated with 25 oxyethylene units and oxypropylenated with 25 oxypropylene units, and mixtures thereof, preferably butyl alcohol oxyethylenated with 26 oxyethylene units and oxypropylenated with 26 oxypropylene units.

6. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said first hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyoxyethylene vegetable oil is a polyoxyethylene vegetable oil comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units, preferably from 30 to 50 oxyethylene units and said second hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyoxyethylene vegetable oil is a polyoxyethylene vegetable oil comprising from 51 to 100 oxyethylene units, preferably from 55 to 70 oxyethylene units.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said hydroxy acid is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 4% to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, even better ranging from 5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said mono or dialkylisosorbide is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein said polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol ether of formula I is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein said first hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyoxyethylene vegetable oil is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and said second hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyoxyethylene vegetable oil is present in the com-

11.

12.

13. position in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 0.4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process for the care of keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising a step of applying to the keratin materials, preferably the skin, the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 for the care of keratin materials, preferably the skin. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 for its use in the treatment aimed at removing comedones.