Process for coloring and / or lightening keratin fibers
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2021011354
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2021-10-26
- Publication Date
- 2025-01-10
- Estimated Expiration
- 2041-10-26
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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Process for coloring and / or lightening keratin fibers
[0001] The invention relates to a process for coloring and / or lightening keratin fibers, preferably hair, in which a coloring and / or lightening composition is applied to the keratin fibers by hand.
[0002] For a long time, many people have been looking to change the color of their hair, and in particular to hide their gray hair.
[0003] It is known to dye keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, to obtain so-called permanent colorations with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, in particular oxidation bases, such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols or heterocyclic compounds such as pyrazoles, pyrazolinones or pyrazolo-pyridines. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to colored compounds by an oxidative condensation process.
[0004] It is also possible to vary the shades obtained with these oxidation bases by combining them with couplers or color modifiers. The variety of molecules used in the oxidation bases and couplers allows a rich palette of colors to be obtained.
[0005] The permanent coloring processes therefore consist of using, with the dye composition containing the oxidation dyes, an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide, under alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases. The alkaline agent conventionally used is ammonia or can be chosen from other alkaline agents, such as alkaline amines.
[0006] The compositions containing the dyes and the oxidizing compositions are packaged separately and must be mixed just before application to the hair.
[0007] Generally, oxidation coloring products intended for self-coloring hair consist of kits comprising, on the one hand, a dispenser bottle containing the oxidizing composition and, on the other hand, a tube containing the composition comprising the colorants. The bottle and the tube are packaged in a box which sometimes also contains a post-coloring treatment and accessories such as gloves.
[0008] At the time of use, the user must empty the tube into the dispenser bottle. to mix the oxidizing composition with the coloring composition. The bottle must then be shaken to obtain a homogeneous mixture. The user can then distribute the ready-to-use composition onto their hair using the dispenser bottle.
[0009] The application technique is not simple and sometimes results in uneven coloring. The user often feels as though they have not mastered the mixture.
[0010] Consumers are also looking for more environmentally friendly coloring and / or lightening products, particularly those based on ingredients of natural origin, without compromising on the dyeing and / or lightening properties obtained, and which limit the use of plastic materials.
[0011] Furthermore, coloring and / or lightening compositions often comprise raw materials for which regulatory conditions are increasingly strict. It is therefore necessary to develop coloring and / or lightening processes which use compositions comprising alternative compounds.
[0012] Thus, there is a real need to provide a process for coloring and / or lightening keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, which does not have the drawbacks mentioned above, and in particular is pleasant to use, which allows for easier mixing and application, which is more environmentally friendly, without compromising the final coloring and / or lightening result.
[0013] These and other aims are achieved by the present invention which therefore relates to a process for coloring and / or lightening keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the following steps, in order: a) pouring, simultaneously or successively, a coloring and / or lightening composition (A) comprising one or more alkaline agents and / or one or more coloring agents and an oxidizing composition (B) comprising one or more chemical oxidants into a pot having a base of internal surface area S; b) mixing the two compositions (A) and (B) in the pot in order to obtain a composition (C) occupying a volume V in the pot, the V / S ratio being between 8 and 30 mm; c) take composition (C) from the pot by hand; d) applying composition (C) by hand to the keratin fibers; e) optionally knead the keratin fibers with your hand; f) after a pause time ranging from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 10 to 50 minutes, preferably from 15 to 45 minutes, rinse the keratin fibers.
[0014] According to a preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is a method of coloring of keratin fibers, especially hair.
[0015] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “taking up or applying by hand” means taking up or applying a composition directly with the hand, without an application utensil such as a brush, a brush, or even without a dispensing tip. The hand is preferably covered with a glove.
[0016] The method according to the invention allows for easy, pleasant application, similar to applying a hair treatment, using hand movements. The application is also precise and localized.
[0017] Furthermore, mixing the compositions is simple and safe. The configuration of the pot makes it easy to mix the compositions, limiting the risk of overflow while allowing easy access to the bottom of the pot for manually removing the composition to be applied.
[0018] The steps of mixing and collecting the composition obtained are thus facilitated, which allows for a homogeneous application which leads to good dyeing results.
[0019] Furthermore, the compositions used in the process according to the invention have good qualities of use, in particular a creamy, melting texture, allowing rapid and easy mixing, easy application by hand with limited risks of dripping, and easy and homogeneous distribution over the entire head of hair.
[0020] Furthermore, when used to color hair, the method according to the invention makes it possible to produce chromatic, powerful, intense and non-selective colorations, that is to say colorations which are homogeneous along the fiber. It also makes it possible to cover depigmented keratin fibers, such as white hair, particularly well.
[0021] In addition, the pot has an interior volume allowing it to accommodate all the constituents necessary for the coloring and / or lightening process. The pot can thus be used both to separately contain the compositions to be mixed (A) and (B) and to serve as a container for mixing these compositions, thus limiting waste.
[0022] Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.
[0023] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.
[0024] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.
[0025] The process for coloring and / or lightening keratin fibers according to the invention uses a coloring and / or lightening composition (A) comprising one or more alkaline agents and / or one or more coloring agents and an oxidizing composition (B) comprising one or more chemical oxidants. 1. Coloring and / or lightening composition (A)
[0026] Composition (A) comprises one or more alkaline agents and / or one or more coloring agents.
[0027] Preferably, composition (A) comprises at least one alkaline agent.
[0028] Preferably, composition (A) comprises at least one coloring agent.
[0029] Preferably, composition (A) comprises at least one alkaline agent and at least a coloring agent, the coloring agent preferably being chosen from oxidation dyes. Alkaline agent
[0030] The alkaline agents useful according to the invention may be mineral, organic or hybrid alkaline agents.
[0031] For the purposes of the present invention, the terms “alkaline agent” or “alkalizing agent” are used interchangeably.
[0032] The mineral alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof.
[0033] The organic alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines other than alkanolamines and amino acids, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3 di-aminopropane, spermine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.
[0034] By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals.
[0035] Particularly suitable for carrying out the invention are organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, in C1-C4.
[0036] In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylaminomethane and their mixtures.
[0037] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, omithine, citrulline.
[0038] The organic amine may also be chosen from heterocyclic organic amines. In addition to histidine already mentioned in the amino acids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole, benzimidazole. The organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides which may be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of carnosine, anserine and balenine. The organic amine may also be chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function. As amines of this type other than arginine which may be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid.)
[0039] As hybrid compounds, it is possible in particular to use guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride.
[0040] The alkaline agent(s) useful according to the invention is (are) preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonates, silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium metasilicate, basic amino acids, such as arginine, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from alkanolamines and ammonia, better still from alkanolamines, even better still, monoethanolamine.
[0041] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of ammonia.
[0042] The total content of the alkaline agent(s) in composition (A) varies, when they are present, preferably from 0.1 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 30% by weight, better still from 2 to 25% by weight, even better still from 4 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0043] According to a particular embodiment, the total content of alkanolamine, preferably monoethanolamine, preferably varies from 0.1 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 30% by weight, better still from 2 to 25% by weight, even better still from 4 to 20% by weight, or even from 8 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0044] According to one embodiment, the pH of the composition (A) according to the invention is between 8 and 13; preferably between 9 and 12.
[0045] The pH of composition (A) can be adjusted to the desired value using acidic or alkaline agent(s) usually used in dyeing keratin fibers such as those described above, or even using buffer systems known to those skilled in the art. Coloring agents
[0046] The composition (A) according to the invention may comprise one or more coloring agent(s).
[0047] Preferably, the composition (A) according to the invention comprises one or more colorants.
[0048] The dyes are chosen from direct dyes, oxidation dyes and their mixtures.
[0049] These direct dyes can be synthetic or natural.
[0050] By "direct dye" we mean colored species. These are dyes that will diffuse superficially on the fiber.
[0051] These synthetic direct dyes are for example chosen from those conventionally used in direct coloring, and among which we can cite all the aromatic and / or non-aromatic dyes in common use such as nitrobenzene, azo, hydrazono, nitro(hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azine, porphyrinic, metalloporphyrinic, quinonic and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine, phthalocyanic direct dyes and their mixtures.
[0052] Among the direct nitrobenzene dyes, we can cite: l,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, l-amino-2 nitro-4-B-hydroxyethylaminobenzene; l-amino-2 nitro-4-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; l,4-bis(B -hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene; 1B-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis-([3-hydroxyethylamino)-benzene; 1 -B-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)(B-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; l-amino-3-methyl-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-nitro-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene; l,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1,2-bis-([3-hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-tris-(hydroxymethyl)-methylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Methoxy-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; lP-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-P,Y-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-4-[3,Y-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3,Y-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-fVhydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-mtrobcnzènc; lP-ammoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-6-bis-(P-hydroxyethyl)-amino-3-nitrobenzene; l-[>-hydroxycthylamino-2-nitrobcnzcnc; l-Hydroxy-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene.
[0053] Among the azo direct dyes, we can cite: Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.
[0054] Among the direct hydrazono dyes, we can cite: Basic Yellow 87.
[0055] Among the aryl nitrated direct dyes, we can cite: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, N,N' -bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-phenylenediamine. Among the triarylmethane direct dyes, we can cite: Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also called HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50.
[0057] Among the quinone direct dyes, mention may be made of: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, as well as the following compounds: 1 -N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1 -aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-anthraquinone, 5-[3-hydroxyethyl-1,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2-aminoethylamino-anthraquinone, 1,4-bis-([3,Y-dihydroxypropylamino)-anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Blue 16.
[0058] Among the direct azine dyes, we can cite: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.
[0059] Among the direct indoamine dyes, we can cite: 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-[bis-([3-4'-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2' -methoxy-4' -amino)anilino-1,4-benzoquinone, 3-N(2'-chloro-4'-hydroxy)phenyl-acetylamino-6-methoxy-l,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-N(3'-chloro-4'-methylamino)phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-l,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-[4'-N-(ethyl,carbamylmethyl)-amino]-phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-l,4-benzoquinone imine.
[0060] The natural direct dyes are for example chosen from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leuco indigo, indirubin, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamine, morin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllins, monascus, polyphenols or orthodiphenols.
[0061] Among the orthodiphenols useful according to the invention, mention may be made of: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, hematein, hematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L DOPA, cyanidin, (-)-Epicatechin, (-)-Epigallocatechin, (-)-Epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), Isoquercetin, Pomiferin, esculetin, 6,7-Dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, Santalin A and B, man-giferin, butein, Maritimetin, Sulfuretin, Robtein, betanidine, Pericampylinone A., Theaflavin, Proanthocyanidin A2, Proanthocyanidin B2, Proanthocyanidin Cl, Procyanidins DP 4-8, Tannic acid, Purpurogallin, 5,6-Dihydroxy-2-methyl-l,4-naphthoquinone, Alizarin, Wedelolactone and natural extracts containing them.
[0062] When composition (A) comprises at least one direct dye, preferably, they are present in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5%, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0063] Preferably, the composition (A) according to the invention comprises one or more dyes chosen from oxidation dyes.
[0064] The oxidation dyes can be chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally associated with one or more couplers.
[0065] Preferably, the oxidation dye(s) comprise one or more oxidation bases.
[0066] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases.
[0067] The oxidation bases may be present as salts, solvates and / or salt solvates.
[0068] The addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition according to the invention are in particular chosen from addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0069] Furthermore, the solvates of the oxidation bases represent more particularly the hydrates of said oxidation bases and / or the association of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
[0070] By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of the salts.
[0071] Among the para-phenylenediamines which may be mentioned, there are for example para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N ,N-diethy 1- 3 -methylaniline, N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(B-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2- [3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(y-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine,N-ethyl-N-([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3,Y-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(|3-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-l-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine and the addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of their salts. ,
[0072] Among the above-mentioned para-phenylenediamines, para- phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(Y-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-[3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of their salts.
[0073] Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines which may be mentioned are, for example, N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane and the corresponding addition salts, solvated and solvated salts.
[0074] Among the para-aminophenols which are mentioned, there are for example para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-([3-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol and the addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0075] Among the ortho-aminophenols which may be mentioned are, for example, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0076] Among the heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned are, for example, pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole derivatives.
[0077] Among the pyridine derivatives which may be mentioned are the compounds for example described in GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0078] Other pyridine oxidation bases which are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts compounds described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-5-ol,3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-[3-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine; 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-l-yl)-3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine; and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0079] More particularly, the oxidation bases which are useful in the present invention are chosen from 3 aminopyrazolo-[1,5 a]-pyridines and preferably substituted on carbon atom 2 by: a) a (di)(Cl-C6)(alkyl)amino group, said alkyl group possibly being substituted by at least one hydroxy, amino, imidazolium group; (b) a heterocycloalkyl group containing 5 to 7 members and 1 to 3 heteroatoms, optionally cationic, optionally substituted by one or more (Cl-C6)alkyl groups, such as a di(Cl-C4)alkylpiperazinium group; or c) a (Cl-C6)alkoxy group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups such as a [3-hydroxyalkoxy] group and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0080] Among the pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96 / 15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts and their tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
[0081] Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FR A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, l-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-([3-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-ethyl-3-hydroxymethyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4-([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-1-methylpyrazole and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of the salts. 4,5-diamino-1-([3-methoxyethyl)pyrazole may also be used. ,
[0082] A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or a corresponding salt, solvated and / or salt solvated.
[0083] Pyrazole derivatives which may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-l-yl)-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1H,6H-pyridazino[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, their salts, their solvates and / or solvates of their salts.
[0084] 2,3-Diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and / or a corresponding salt, solvated and / or salt solvated, will preferably be used.
[0085] 4,5-Diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and / or 2-[3-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine and / or a corresponding salt, solvated and / or salt solvated as heterocyclic bases will preferably be used.
[0086] Preferably, the oxidation base(s) are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and their mixtures; more preferably from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and their mixtures.
[0087] When the composition (A) comprises at least one oxidation base, preferably, the oxidation base(s) is(are) present in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5%, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition (A).
[0088] According to a preferred embodiment, when the composition (A) comprises at least one oxidation base chosen from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and their mixtures, this (they) is (are) present in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5%, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0089] In a particular embodiment, the composition (A) according to the invention is free of oxidation bases chosen from para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates, and the solvates of their salts.
[0090] The oxidation dye(s) may also be chosen from one or more couplers, which can be chosen from the couplers conventionally used for coloring keratin fibers.
[0091] Preferably, the composition (A) according to the invention comprises one or more couplers.
[0092] Among the couplers useful according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents as well as the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of their salts.
[0093] Mention may be made, for example, of 6-hydroxy benzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(B-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(B-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 2,6-bis(B-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, lH-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, l-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[l,5-b]-l,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-l,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[l,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(B-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol,3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, the corresponding addition salts, solvates, solvates of the salts and the corresponding mixtures.
[0094] Preferably the coupler(s) is(are) chosen from: 6-hydroxy benzomorpholine, its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts and mixtures thereof.
[0095] In general, the addition salts of the couplers which can be used in the context of the invention are in particular chosen from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates and addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0096] Furthermore, the solvates represent more particularly the hydrates of these couplers and / or the association of these couplers with a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvated are hydrates.
[0097] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of oxidation couplers chosen from resorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 4-chloro resorcinol, their addition salts, their solvates, and the solvates of their salts.
[0098] When the composition (A) comprises one or more oxidation couplers, the total content of the coupler(s) present in the composition according to the invention varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0099] When present, the total content of the couplers chosen from 6-hydroxy benzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol as well as their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts preferably varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0100] When present, the total content of the couplers chosen from 6-hydroxy benzomorpholine, its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts as well as their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts preferably varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0101] When present, the total content of the couplers chosen from hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts as well as their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts preferably varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0102] When present, the total content of the couplers chosen from 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts as well as their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts preferably varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0103] Preferably, the total content of the colorants preferably varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0104] When present, the total content of the oxidation dyes preferably varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Alkyl(poly)glycoside
[0105] Composition (A) may further comprise one or more alkyl(poly)glycoside(s).
[0106] Preferably, composition (A) comprises one or more alkyl(poly)glycoside(s).
[0107] By "alkyl(poly)glycoside" is meant an alkylpolyglycoside or an alkylmono-glycoside also called alkylglycoside in the present application, which can be alkoxylated by one or more alkylene oxide groups, preferably C2 to C4.
[0108] The alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) may be represented by the following general formula: RiO-(R2O)t-(G)v in which: - Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical containing 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical contains 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms; - R2 represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms, - G represents a sugar unit containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms, -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4, - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.
[0109] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycosides are compounds of formula described above in which: - Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, - R2 represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms, -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0, - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose; - the degree of polymerization, that is to say the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.
[0110] The glucosidic bonds between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside is an alkyl(poly)glucoside.
[0111] Among the commercial products, we can cite the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX® NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70; products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK; products sold by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names TEGO CARE CG 90 or TEGO CARE CG 90 MB, products sold by the company SEPPIC under the trade names Montanov® 68, Montanov® 68 MB, Montanov® 14 or Montanov® 202, or products sold by the company BASF under the name Emulgade® PL 68 / 50.
[0112] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more alkyl(poly)glycosides chosen from, alone or as a mixture, (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (C8-C18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, preferably chosen from coco-glucoside, lauryl glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside.
[0113] Particularly preferred are C8 / C18-alkyl-(poly)glucosides 1,4, and in particular the compounds with the INCI name coco glucoside and cetearyl glucoside.
[0114] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (A) comprises one or more alkyl(poly)glycosides chosen from, alone or as a mixture, (C14-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, and more particularly (C14-C18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, preferably chosen from cetearyl glucoside.
[0115] When it(they) is(are) present, the total content of alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) in the composition (A) preferably varies from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.02 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.08 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, or even from 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Polysaccharide
[0116] Composition (A) may further comprise one or more polysaccharides, preferably chosen from anionic polysaccharides.
[0117] Preferably, composition (A) comprises one or more polysaccharides, preferably chosen from anionic polysaccharides.
[0118] By "polysaccharides" is meant polymers which contain at least 11 monosaccharide units. Preferably, the polysaccharides of the invention contain between 20 and 100,000 monosaccharide units.
[0119] The anionic polysaccharides according to the invention comprise one or more anionic or anionizable groups, and do not comprise a cationic or cationizable group.
[0120] The anionic polysaccharides useful according to the invention may be chosen from those derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate.
[0121] The anionic polysaccharides of the invention may be natural or synthetic.
[0122] According to a particular embodiment, the anionic polysaccharides useful in the composition according to the invention are chosen from native gums such as: • exudates of trees or shrubs including: gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); gum ghatti (polymer of arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); gum karaya (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); gum tragacanth (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); • gums derived from algae such as: alginates (polymers of man-nuronic acid and glucuronic acid); carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); • microbial gums such as: xanthan gums (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); gellan gums (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid).
[0123] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “microbial gums” means substances synthesized by fermentation of sugars by microorganisms.
[0124] According to a preferred embodiment, the anionic polysaccharides useful in composition (A) are chosen from anionic gums, better still, from anionic microbial gums, more preferably from xanthan gums.
[0125] When they are present, the total content of polysaccharides preferably varies from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A), preferably from 0.05 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0126] When they are present, the total content of anionic polysaccharides as defined above preferably varies from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A), preferably from 0.05 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0127] The total content of anionic microbial gums as defined above varies, when present, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A), preferably from 0.05 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Fatty substances other than fatty acids
[0128] Composition (A) may further comprise one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids.
[0129] By "fatty substance" is meant an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), vaseline oil or decamethyl-cyclopentasiloxane.
[0130] The fatty substances which can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0131] Preferably, the fatty substances useful according to the invention are non-silicone.
[0132] The term “non-silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance not containing Si-O bonds and the term “silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance containing at least one Si-O bond.
[0133] The fatty substances useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. Liquid fatty substance is understood to mean a fatty substance having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa) and solid fatty substance is understood to mean a fatty substance having a melting point greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).
[0134] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3; 1999 standard. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).
[0135] More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) may be chosen from C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol other than triglycerides and mixtures thereof.
[0136] It is recalled that the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0137] As regards the liquid hydrocarbons in C6 to Cl6, the latter can be linear, branched, possibly cyclic, and preferably are chosen from the alkanes. Examples include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof.
[0138] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or vaseline oils (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, and mixtures thereof.
[0139] As hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.
[0140] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stea-rineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0141] As regards the fluorinated oils, these can be chosen from per-fluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3 dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names “FLUTEC® PCI” and “FLUTEC® PC3” by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names “PF 5050®” and “PF 5060®” by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name “FORALKYL®” by the company Atochem; no-nafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name “PF 5052®” by 3M Company.
[0142] The liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Examples that may be mentioned are octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleyl alcohol will be used.
[0143] As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, different from the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made in particular of esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyacids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
[0144] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or the acid is branched.
[0145] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as 2-octyldodecyl isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.
[0146] Preferably among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0147] It is also possible to use esters of C4 to C22 di or tricarboxylic acids and C1 to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.
[0148] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.
[0149] The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars of C6 to C30 fatty acids, preferably C12 to C22. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone function, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides other than the anionic polysaccharides described below.
[0150] Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, in particular alkylated ones, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.
[0151] The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0152] The esters can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.
[0153] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate.
[0154] More particularly, mono- and di-esters are used, and in particular mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.
[0155] An example of this is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0156] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.
[0157] According to one embodiment, the fatty substances different from the fatty acids useful according to the invention are chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters and their mixtures, more preferably from liquid fatty alcohols.
[0158] Preferably, the liquid fatty substance(s) are chosen from liquid fatty alcohols, in particular oleic alcohol.
[0159] The solid fatty substances preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1.
[0160] The solid fatty substance(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.
[0161] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and comprising at least minus one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
[0162] The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are of structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0163] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0164] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used can be chosen from, alone or in a mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); ara-chidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
[0165] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0166] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol.
[0167] Preferably, these solid fatty esters are esters of saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated, linear or branched monoalcohol, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.
[0168] It is also possible to use esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols.
[0169] Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
[0170] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.
[0171] A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. Generally speaking, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or diffuse light, giving the composition comprising them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained, detectable microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).
[0172] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and their mixtures.
[0173] Mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, in particular of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.
[0174] Mention may also be made of C20 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.
[0175] Mention may also be made of the PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.
[0176] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, from C8 to C32. Among of these, we can notably cite isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate, in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.
[0177] It is also possible to use waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.
[0178] As wax, it is also possible to use a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.
[0179] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention;we can cite in particular camauba microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by the company MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of camauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of camauba wax and synthetic wax, such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by the company MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company MICRO POWDERS and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS.;
[0180] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, vaseline wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Camauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the company BERTIN (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.
[0181] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, capable of being used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may be made in particular of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification.
[0182] The ceramides or their analogues which may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which: R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, this group possibly being substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8; R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group possibly being substituted by one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also denote a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified by a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid.
[0183] The more particularly preferred ceramides are the compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a linear saturated C15 group.
[0184] Preferably, ceramides are used for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 denotes a ga-lactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0185] It is also possible to use compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C[2-C22] fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated C[2-C22] hydrocarbon radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0186] As particularly preferred compounds, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4 triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)cetyl acid amide and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl) malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will be used.
[0187] The solid fatty substances are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixtures such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0188] Butters can also be used.
[0189] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "butter" (also called "pasty fat") means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising, at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a melting start temperature greater than 25°C and an end melting temperature less than 60°C.
[0190] Preferably the particular butter(s) are of vegetable origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Fats and Fatty Oils", A. Thomas, Published Online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).
[0191] We can cite more particularly shea butter, Nilotica Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkiï), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkiï), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow) (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipé butter, Madhuca butter or Bassia Madhuca longifolia, mowrah butter (Madhuca Eatifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M.butyracea), Mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (As-trocaryum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), Coffee butter (Coffea arabica), Apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), Macadamia butter (Macadamia Ternifolia), Grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), Avocado butter (Persea gratissima), Olive butter (Olea europaea), Sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) and Cocoa butter Sunflower butter.
[0192] Shea butter is an example of a preferred butter.
[0193] As is known, shea butter is extracted from the fruits (also called "almonds" or "nuts") of the Butyrospemim Parkii tree. Each fruit contains between 45 and 55% fat, which is generally extracted and refined.
[0194] According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty substances other than the fatty acids useful according to the invention are chosen from solid fatty substances, preferably from solid fatty alcohols.
[0195] When they are present, the total content of the fatty substance(s) other than the fatty acids preferably varies from 5 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 8 to 30% by weight, and better still from 10 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0196] In a particular embodiment, the composition (A) comprises one or more solid fatty substances other than fatty acids, the total content of the solid fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids preferably varying from 5 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 8 to 30% by weight, and better still from 10 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0197] In another particular embodiment, the composition (A) comprises one or more liquid fatty substances other than fatty acids, the total content of the liquid fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids preferably varying from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, and better still from 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0198] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (A) comprises one or more solid fatty substances other than fatty acids, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols and one or more liquid fatty substances other than fatty acids, preferably chosen from liquid fatty alcohols. Anionic surfactants
[0199] Composition (A) may further comprise one or more anionic surfactants.
[0200] Preferably, composition (A) comprises one or more anionic surfactants.
[0201] The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups CO2H, CO2-, SO3H, SO3-, OSO3H, OSO3-, H2PO3, HPO3-, PO32-, H2PO2, HPO2-, PO22-, POH and PO-.
[0202] As examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-alkyl(Cl-C4)-N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and acids polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D-galactoside-uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether-carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl amidoether-carboxylic acids;fatty acid salts, and the corresponding unsalified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise stated) generally having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group generally denoting a phenyl group.;
[0203] These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
[0204] The salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.
[0205] When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
[0206] As examples of amino alcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane salts.
[0207] Preferably, alkali or alkaline earth metal salts are used, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.
[0208] The anionic surfactants possibly present may be mild anionic surfactants, i.e. without sulfate function.
[0209] As regards mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and their salts, as well as their mixtures: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; alkyl D-galactoside uronic acids; acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; and alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters.
[0210] In particular, it is possible to use polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids such as, for example, lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4,5 EO) marketed, for example, under the name AKYPO RLM 45 CA from KAO.
[0211] The anionic surfactants possibly present may be carboxylic acids comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, also called fatty acids, possibly in salified form.
[0212] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty acid” means an acid comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, such as alkyl or alkenyl, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0213] The carboxylic acids comprising at least 6 carbon atoms (or fatty acids) according to the invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated; in particular, they are not (poly)oxyethylenated nor (poly)oxypropylenated.
[0214] They preferably have the structure R-COOH in which R denotes a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group, in C7-C29, preferably in C9-C23, better in C9-C17.
[0215] Preferably, the fatty acid according to the invention is chosen from linear fatty acids, better still from unsaturated linear fatty acids, in C10-C22, in particular in C10-C18 (R is a linear alkenyl in C9-C23, or even in C9-C17).
[0216] Mention may in particular be made of oleic, linoleic, linolenic, undecylenic acids and their mixtures. Oleic acid will preferably be used.
[0217] Among the anionic surfactants mentioned above, fatty acids are preferably used.
[0218] When the composition (A) comprises one or more anionic surfactants, preferably, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) in the composition preferably varies from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 8% by weight, even better still from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0219] When the composition (A) comprises one or more anionic surfactants chosen from fatty acids, preferably, the total content of fatty acids in the composition preferably varies from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 8% by weight, even better still from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Sequestrants
[0220] Composition (A) may further comprise at least one sequestering (or chelating) agent.
[0221] Preferably, composition (A) comprises one or more sequestering agent(s).
[0222] The definition of a “sequestering agent” (or “chelating agent”) is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or mixture of compounds capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. A chelate is an inorganic complex in which a compound (the sequestering or chelating agent) is coordinated to a metal ion, i.e. it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (formation of a cycle including the metal ion).
[0223] A sequestering (or chelating) agent generally comprises at least two electron donor atoms which allow the formation of bonds with the metal ion.
[0224] In the context of the present invention, the sequestering agent(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, their salts and derivatives.
[0225] The salts are in particular salts of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium and substituted ammonium.
[0226] As examples of chelating agents based on carboxylic acids, mention may be made of: composés suivants: diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediamine di-succinic acid (EDDS) et trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate tel que l’Octaquest E30 de OCTEL, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), et ses sels tels que disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), gly-cinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), glycinamide- N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N-N'-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenyl acetic acid) (EDDHA), le N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA), le N-2-hydroxyethyl N,N diacetic acid et le glyceryl imino diacetic acid (tels que décrits dans les documents EP-A-317,542 et EP-A-399,133), l’iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl sulfonic acid et l’aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (tels que décrits dans EP-A-516,102), les beta-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid,aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509,382), iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA) chelating agents (as described in EP-A-509,382), ethanoldiglycine acid, phosphonobutane tricarboxylic acid such as the compound marketed by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel.
[0227] Examples of mono- or polyphosphonic acid-based chelating agents include the following compounds: diethylenetriamine-penta (methylene phosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1-triphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethan-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylene phosphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxyethane-1,1 diphosphonic acid (HEDP, or etidronic acid), and salts such as disodium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate
[0228] As examples of polyphosphoric acid-based chelators, the following compounds may be mentioned: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexa-metaphophoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid.
[0229] According to one embodiment, the sequestering agent(s) useful according to the invention are phosphorus sequestering agents, i.e. sequestering agents which comprise one or more phosphorus atoms, preferably at least two phosphorus atoms.
[0230] The phosphorus sequestering agent(s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from: - inorganic phosphorus derivatives preferably chosen from phosphates and pyrophosphates of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, preferably of alkali metals such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, pyro sodium phosphate decahydrate; and polyphosphates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, preferably of alkali metals, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; optionally hydrated, and mixtures thereof; - organic phosphorus derivatives, such as organic (poly)phosphates and (poly)phosphonates, such as etidronic acid and / or its alkali or alkaline earth metal salts such as tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate and mixtures thereof.
[0231] Preferably, the phosphorus sequestering agent(s) is (are) chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms covalently linked together by at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and / or at least one carbon atom.
[0232] The phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) may be chosen from inorganic phosphorus-containing derivatives, preferably comprising at least 2 phosphorus atoms. More preferably, the phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) is / are chosen from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal pyrophosphates, better still from alkali metal pyrophosphates, in particular sodium pyrophosphate (also called tetrasodium pyrophosphate).
[0233] The phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) may be chosen from organic phosphorus-containing derivatives, preferably comprising at least 2 phosphorus atoms. More preferably, the phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) is / are chosen from etidronic acid (also called 1-hydroxyethane 1,1-diphosphonic acid) and / or its alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, preferably alkali metal salts such as tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.
[0234] Thus, preferably, the phosphorus sequestering agent(s) are chosen from alkali metal pyrophosphates, etidronic acid and / or its alkali metal salts, and a mixture of these compounds.
[0235] In a particularly preferred manner, the phosphorus sequestering agent(s) are chosen from tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, etidronic acid, tetrasodium pyrophosphate and a mixture of these compounds.
[0236] According to the present invention, the sequestering agents are preferably chosen from diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA) and its salts, diethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts, etidronic acid and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and mixtures thereof.
[0237] More preferably, the sequestering agent(s) are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and their mixtures.
[0238] Among the salts of these compounds, the alkali metal salts are preferred, and in particular the sodium or potassium salts.
[0239] When the composition (A) comprises one or more sequestrants, the total content of the sequestrant(s) preferably varies from 0.001 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 8% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0240] According to a particular embodiment, the composition (A) comprises: - at least one fatty substance other than fatty acids; - at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside; - at least one polysaccharide; - at least one alkaline agent and - at least one dye chosen from direct dyes, oxidation dyes and their mixtures, preferably at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes and their mixtures.
[0241] According to a particular embodiment, the composition (A) according to the invention comprises: - at least one fatty substance other than fatty acids, preferably at least one liquid fatty substance and at least one solid fatty substance; - at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside; - at least one polysaccharide, preferably chosen from anionic polysaccharides; - at least one alkaline agent; - at least one dye chosen from direct dyes, oxidation dyes and their mixtures, preferably at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes and their mixtures; - at least one sequestering agent, preferably chosen from diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) and its salts, diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts, etidronic acid and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and mixtures thereof. Solvents
[0242] Composition (A) may also comprise at least one organic solvent.
[0243] Preferably, composition (A) comprises at least one organic solvent.
[0244] As organic solvent, mention may be made, for example, of linear or branched C2 to C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, propane-1,3-diol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols or ethers such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0245] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) is (are) chosen from polyols, more preferably glycerol, propane-1,3-diol and their mixtures.
[0246] The organic solvent(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 2 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
[0247] Furthermore, preferably, composition (A) is an aqueous composition. Preferably, composition (A) comprises water in an amount greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A). Additives
[0248] Composition (A) may optionally comprise one or more additives, different from the compounds of the invention and among which may be mentioned cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric polymers or their mixtures, different from those mentioned above, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-hair loss and / or regrowth agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizing agents, solubilizing agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidant agents, hydroxy acids, perfumes, preservatives.
[0249] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition(s) envisaged.
[0250] The above additives may generally be present in an amount of between 0 and 20% by weight for each of them, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
[0251] Preferably, composition (A) does not comprise chemical oxidizing agents. 2. Oxidizing composition (B)
[0252] The oxidizing composition (B) comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents.
[0253] By “chemical oxidizing agent” according to the invention, we mean an oxidizing agent other than than the oxygen in the air.
[0254] More particularly, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts such as, for example, persulfates, perborates, peracids and their precursors and alkali or alkaline-earth metal percarbonates and their mixtures. Preferably, the oxidizing agent is chosen from hydrogen peroxide.
[0255] The oxidizing composition (B) is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water.
[0256] It may also comprise one or more organic solvents chosen from those listed above; the latter representing more particularly, when present, from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition, and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight.
[0257] The oxidizing composition (B) also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.
[0258] In addition, the oxidizing composition (B) may comprise fatty substances such as those described above, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, surfactants, polymers.
[0259] Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition, when aqueous, is less than 7.
[0260] Preferably, the oxidizing composition (B) comprises hydrogen peroxide as oxidizing agent, the concentration of which varies, more particularly, from 0.1 to 50%, more particularly between 0.5 and 20%, and even more preferably between 1 and 15% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition (B).
[0261] Composition (A) and composition (B) are preferably mixed in a composition (A) / composition (B) weight ratio ranging from 0.5 to 2, preferably from 0.5 to 1.5, better still from 0.5 to 1.
[0262] The ready-to-use composition (C) resulting from the mixture of the coloring and / or lightening composition (A) and the oxidizing composition (B) preferably has a viscosity greater than or equal to 3 Pa.s, preferably greater than or equal to 3.2 Pa.s, better still, greater than or equal to 3.5 Pa.s at a temperature of 25°C, at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s 1 (measurable for example with a Haake RS600 Rheometer). Preferably, the ready-to-use composition (C) has a viscosity ranging from 3 to 500 Pa.s, more preferably ranging from 3.2 to 300 Pa.s, and even more preferably ranging from 3.5 to 200 Pa.s at a temperature of 25°C, at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s 1 (measurable for example with a Haake RS600 Rheometer).
[0263] Preferably, the ready-to-use composition (C) resulting from the mixture of the coloring and / or lightening composition (A) and the oxidizing composition (B) has a threshold stress at 25°C greater than or equal to 10 Pa, preferably greater than or equal to 10.2 Pa, better, greater than or equal to 10.3 Pa. Preferably the ready-to-use composition (C) has a threshold stress at 25°C ranging from 10 to 300 Pa, preferably from 10.2 to 250 Pa, and more preferably from 10.3 to 200 Pa.
[0264] The threshold stress is determined by stress scanning at 25°C. A Thermo Haake RS600 rheometer with imposed stress in sandblasted cone-plate geometry is used. The temperature is regulated by a Peltier effect plane and an anti-evaporation device (solvent trap filled with water for measurements at 25°C).
[0265] A logarithmic stress increase of 0.5 to 500 Pa is carried out over a period of 3 minutes. Two adjustment lines corresponding to the stationary regimes (solid and liquid behaviors) are plotted on the curve representing the deformation as a function of the stress (logarithmic coordinates). The intersection of these two lines provides the value of the threshold stress. 3. Pot
[0266] The pot used in the process according to the invention to receive the mixture of compositions (A) and (B) and obtain the ready-to-use composition (C) has an internal surface area base S.
[0267] The pot serves both to separately contain the compositions to be mixed (A) and (B) and to mix them.
[0268] The volume V occupied by the ready-to-use composition (C) resulting from the mixture of composition (A) and oxidizing composition (B) is preferably between 70 and 150 mL, more preferably between 95 and 125 mL.
[0269] The V / S ratio may be between 8 and 30 mm, preferably between 13 and 20 mm, more preferably between 15.0 and 18.5 mm. The V / S ratio corresponds substantially to the height of the mixture.
[0270] The pot is preferably of circular section, with an internal diameter D preferably between 80 and 105 mm, better between 90 and 95 mm. By "internal diameter" it is necessary to understand when the section is non-circular the equivalent diameter of a fictitious circular section of the same area.
[0271] It is also possible to use a pot whose base is not circular, in particular a pot with a substantially rectangular base. The rectangular base is, for example, 90mm x 70mm in size, which is substantially equivalent to a circular base with a diameter of 90 mm.
[0272] The pot preferably has an internal height not exceeding 125 mm, better still not exceeding 110 mm. The internal height may in particular be between 50 and 110 mm.
[0273] The dimensions of the pot make it possible on the one hand to limit the risk of overflow and on the other hand guarantee a sufficient level of product in the pot to facilitate its homogenization and manual access to the bottom of the pot for removing the product.
[0274] In addition, such a pot has an interior volume allowing all the constituents of the assembly to be housed with a good filling rate of the pot, which avoids having to provide specific means of wedging the different constituents.
[0275] The pot contains in particular the compositions to be mixed to obtain the ready-to-use composition (C).
[0276] The compositions (A) and (B) to be mixed are packaged separately in a container, which may be a sachet, a tube or a bottle. Preferably, each composition (A) and (B) is packaged in a sachet.
[0277] Each composition (A) and (B) may be present in the pot in a volume ranging from 40 to 75 mL.
[0278] The pot may also contain other elements useful in the coloring and / or lightening process of the invention.
[0279] It may, for example, contain gloves to protect the user's hands during application.
[0280] It may optionally contain a spatula for stirring the mixture of compositions (A) and (B).
[0281] It may also contain one or more other compositions to be applied after coloring and / or lightening, for example a care composition or a shampoo.
[0282] It may also contain instructions for use.
[0283] The pot may include a lid arranged to be fixed thereon so as to enclose the various constituents initially contained in the pot.
[0284] The material of the pot can be any cardboard suitable for containing the mixture for the time necessary for application. The lid can also be made of cardboard. The spatula can be made of wood, compressed palm or banana leaf, or even folded cardboard of the same nature as the pot, if the latter is made of cardboard.
[0285] The use of cardboard reduces the amount of plastic material, and the pot can be single-use, which avoids the need for extensive, water-consuming cleaning.
[0286] The invention may be better understood by reading the detailed description which follows, of non-limiting examples of implementation of the invention, and by examining the attached drawing, in which:
[0287] [Fig-1] represents the pot and the lid;
[0288] [Fig.2] represents in isolation, in longitudinal section, the pot containing the mixture of compositions.
[0289] According to the particular embodiment illustrated in figures 1 and 2, the pot 10 has a body 13 of generally truncated cone shape.
[0290] The pot 10 may include an attached bottom 12, having a cross section in U turned over, glued by its periphery to the body 13.
[0291] The diameter D is that measured inside the pot at its base, that is to say at the level of the wall of the added bottom.
[0292] The internal height H of the pot corresponds to the distance between the bottom 12 and the plane resting on the upper edge of the pot 10.
[0293] The internal diameter D of the base of the pot 10 is for example between 80 and 105 mm, i.e. an internal area S of the base approximately between 50 and 87 cm2.
[0294] The assembly comprises a cover 20 for closing the pot 10.
[0295] The pot is made of a cardboard material. The attached base is also made of a cardboard material, as is the lid 20.
[0296] Compositions (A) and (B) form, after being poured into the pot, a total volume V of ready-to-use composition (C).
[0297] This volume V occupies a height H3 in the pot 10, as illustrated in [Fig.2].
[0298] When mixing compositions (A) and (B) while stirring with a spatula, a small volume v of mixture typically wets a height H2 of the pot wall above the level of the mixture at rest.
[0299] The remaining height H1 is such that the internal height H=H1+H2+H3 is between 50 and 110 mm.
[0300] For example, H2 is between 10 and 50 mm and H1 is between 32 and 60 mm.
[0301] Each composition (A) and (B) is packaged in a sachet, which may be a flat sachet.
[0302] The pot 10 initially contains the sachets containing the compositions (A) and (B). It also contains a pair of gloves, a mixing spatula, a third sachet containing a hair care composition. It may also contain instructions for use. Process
[0303] According to the coloring and / or lightening process of the invention, the user pours in step a), simultaneously or successively, a coloring and / or lightening composition (A) as described previously and an oxidizing composition (B) as described previously into a pot as described previously, having a base of internal area S.
[0304] Preferably, the user pours the oxidizing composition (B) into the pot before the composition (A) in step a).
[0305] He then mixes the two compositions (A) and (B) in the pot in order to obtain a composition (C), ready-to-use, occupying a volume V in the pot, the ratio V / S being between 8 and 30 mm.
[0306] The step of mixing compositions (A) and (B) is preferably carried out with a spatula. Alternatively, it is possible to do without a spatula and mix the two compositions directly with the hand.
[0307] The user then takes the composition (C) from the pot by hand and applies it by hand to the hair. These steps can be repeated between one and ten times to apply the necessary amount of composition (C) to the hair so that all the hair on a head is covered with composition (C).
[0308] According to a preferred embodiment, the user takes by hand a small quantity of composition (C), preferably a quantity corresponding to a nut, and applies it to the hair. He repeats this step several times until all the hair on the head is covered with composition (C).
[0309] According to a preferred embodiment, in step d), the user first applies the composition (C) to the roots of the hair on the head, preferably on either side of a previously defined parting, preferably on the upper part of the head. The user can repeat this step by successively applying on either side of several partings formed on the upper part of the head until all the roots of the upper part of the head and the temples are covered with composition (C).
[0310] Preferably, after applying the composition (C) to all of the roots of the upper part of the head and the temples, the user ties the lengths of the hair of the upper part of the head, so as to clear the back part of the head. If the hair is sufficiently long, the user preferably forms a bun with the hair of the upper part of the head. Then, the user applies the composition (C) to the roots of the back part of the head.
[0311] Preferably, the user spreads by hand the composition (C) present on the roots over the entire length of the hair. When the user has previously tied up the hair on the upper part of the head, the user unties the hair, in particular the bun, before spreading by hand the composition (C) present on the roots over the entire length of the hair.
[0312] After applying composition (C) to the hair, the user may optionally knead the hair with the hand.
[0313] After a pause time ranging from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 10 to 50 minutes, preferably from 15 to 45 minutes, the hair is rinsed.
[0314] Preferably, when compositions (A) and (B) are initially contained in containers, preferably sachets, packaged in the pot, the user must first remove the containers from the pot before opening them to pour their contents into the pot.
[0315] Preferably, when the pot contains other components such as protective gloves, a mixing spatula, another container containing another composition such as a hair care product, instructions for use, etc., the user must of course remove them from the pot before pouring in compositions (A) and (B).
[0316] The ready-to-use composition (C) can be applied by hand to dry or damp hair.
[0317] At the end of the treatment, after rinsing, the hair optionally undergoes a step of washing g) the hair with a detergent composition (D) followed by a step of rinsing with water, optionally followed by a step of wringing h) the keratin fibers.
[0318] A hair care composition (E) may optionally be applied after rinsing the hair, optionally followed by another rinsing step.
[0319] At the end of treatment, the hair can be dried or left to dry.
[0320] Preferably, the user covers his hands with protective gloves before taking the composition by hand in step c), preferably before step b) of mixing, or preferably before pouring in step a) the compositions (A) and (B) into the pot.
[0321] Preferably, the user has his hands covered with protective gloves at least until step f) of rinsing the hair.
[0322] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Examples
[0323] In the following examples, all quantities are indicated as a percentage by mass of active ingredient (AI) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated). Compositions
[0324] The coloring compositions A1 to A3 and the oxidizing composition B were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below (% active matter): Coloring compositions
[0325] [Tables 1] Al A2 A3 XANTHAN GUM 0,2 0,2 0,2 OLEIC ACID 2,7 2,7 2,7 ETHANOLAMINE 12,2 12,2 12,3 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 16,3 16,3 16,3 TOLUENE-2,5-DIAMINE 0,68 HYDROXYBENZOMORPHOLINE 0,49 0,95 2,4-DIAMINOPHENOXYETHANOL HCl 0,016 0,028 0,12 6-HYDROXYINDOLE 0,069 0,1 N,N-BIS(2-HYDROXYETHYL)-p-PHEN YLENEDIAMINE SULFATE 0,058 0,044 0,13 2-AMINO-3-HYDROXYPYRIDINE 0,009 0,04 RESORCINOL 1,2 m-AMINOPHENOL 0,09 0,216 0,53 p-PHENYLENEDIAMINE 1 HYDROXYETHYL-3,4-METHYLENEDI OXYANILINE HCL 0,12 2-METHOXYMETHYL-P-PHENYLENE DIAMINE 1,8 PROPANEDIOL-1,3 5 5 5 ASCORBIC ACID 0,25 0,25 0,25 TETRASODIUM GLUTAMATE DIACETATE 0,24 0,24 0,24 CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE 0,5 0,5 0,5 GLYCERIN 5 5 5 OLEYL ALCOHOL 2,7 2,7 2,7 SODIUM METABISULFITE 0,7 0,7 0,7 Eau Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Composition oxydante
[0326] [Tableaux2] B TRIDECETH-2 CARBOXAMIDE MEA 0.85 TETRASODIUM ETIDRONATE 0.06 SODIUM SALICYLATE 0.035 GLYCERIN 0.5 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 2.28 CETEARETH-25 0.57 PHOSPHORIC ACID Qs pH = 2.2 + / -0.2 HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 6 TETRASODIUM PYRO PHOSPHATE 0.04 WATER Qs 100
[0327] A pot as described above and illustrated in Figures 1 and 2 contains a first sachet containing 40 g of coloring composition Al and a second sachet containing 60 g of oxidizing composition B. The pot also contains instructions for use, a pair of gloves, a wooden spatula and a third sachet containing a hair care composition.
[0328] The user extracts from the pot all the elements initially contained therein.
[0329] He puts on protective gloves before pouring the entire contents of the sachet containing the oxidizing composition B and then the contents of the sachet containing the coloring composition Al into the pot.
[0330] He then mixes the two compositions A1 and B using the spatula so as to obtain a ready-to-use composition C occupying a volume of approximately 100 ml in the pot. Mixing is easy.
[0331] He then takes a small amount of composition (C) from the pot by hand and applies it by hand to his dry hair.
[0332] He repeats these steps of taking and applying by hand so as to apply the necessary quantity of composition (C) to the hair.
[0333] Hand picking up the coloring mixture is easy until the end of the pot. Hand application to the hair is easy and allows good localization of the coloring mixture in the desired areas, without dripping.
[0334] He kneads his hair with his hand so as to distribute the composition over the whole head of hair.
[0335] After a 30-minute pause, the user rinses their hair with water. They then let their hair dry.
[0336] A powerful hair coloring is obtained.
[0337] According to two other embodiments, the pot contains a sachet containing the coloring composition A2 instead of the composition A1, or the composition A3. The same method as that described in the first example is implemented.
[0338] Compositions A2 and A3 also lead to powerful hair colorings.
Claims
Claims
1. A method for coloring and / or lightening keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the following steps, in order: a) pouring, simultaneously or successively, a coloring and / or lightening composition (A) comprising one or more alkaline agents and / or one or more coloring agents and an oxidizing composition (B) comprising one or more chemical oxidants into a pot having a base of internal surface area S; b) mixing the two compositions (A) and (B) in the pot in order to obtain a composition (C) occupying a volume V in the pot, the ratio V / S being between 8 and 30 mm; c) taking the composition (C) from the pot by hand; d) applying the composition (C) by hand to the keratin fibers, e) optionally kneading the keratin fibers with the hand; f) after a pause time ranging from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 10 to 50 minutes, preferably from 15 to 45 minutes, rinse the keratin fibers.
2. Method according to the preceding claim in which the composition (A) comprises one or more alkyl(poly)glycosides.
3. Process according to the preceding claim in which the alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula Ri O-(R2O)t-(G)v in which: - Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical in which the linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms, - G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms, -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4, - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4;preferably: - Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms, -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0, - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose; - the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2, the alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) preferably being chosen from (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, preferably from (C8-C[8 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, preferentially chosen from coco-glucoside, lauryl glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside and mixtures thereof, better still, cetearyl glucoside.
4. Process according to any one of claims 2 to 3 in which the total content of the alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) in composition (A) ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.02 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.08 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, or even from 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A).
5. Method according to any one of the preceding claims in which the composition (A) comprises one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids, the fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids preferably being chosen from liquid fatty substances, solid fatty substances and their mixtures, preferably one or more solid fatty substances and one or more liquid fatty substances.
6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims in which the composition (A) comprises at least one liquid fatty substance other than fatty acids, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters and their mixtures, more preferably from liquid fatty alcohols, even better, oleic alcohol.
7. Method according to any one of the preceding claims in which the composition (A) comprises at least one solid fatty substance other than fatty acids, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof, preferentially from solid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof, in particular chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
8. Process according to any one of claims 5 to 7 in which the total content of the fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids in composition (A) ranges from 5 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 8 to 30% by weight, more preferably still from 10 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).
9. Method according to any one of the preceding claims in which the composition (A) comprises one or more polysaccharides, the polysaccharide(s) preferably being chosen from anionic polysaccharides, better still from anionic microbial gums, more preferably from xanthan gums.
10. Process according to the preceding claim in which the total content of polysaccharide(s) in the composition (A) varies from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
11. Method according to any one of the preceding claims in which the composition (A) comprises at least one coloring agent chosen from oxidation dyes.
12. Process according to any one of the preceding claims in which the composition (A) comprises at least one oxidation dye chosen from oxidation bases, preferably from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, solvates, solvates of the salts and their mixtures; more preferably from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and their mixtures.
13. Process according to any one of the preceding claims in which the composition (A) comprises at least one oxidation dye chosen from couplers, preferably chosen from 6-hydroxy benzomorpholine, its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts and mixtures thereof.
14. Process according to any one of the preceding claims in which the composition (A) comprises one or more alkaline agent(s), preferably chosen from alkanolamines; ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates, silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, basic amino acids and their mixtures, more preferably among alkanolamines and ammonia, better among alkanolamines,
15. Process according to the preceding claim in which the alkaline agent content varies from 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight, better still from 2 to 25% by weight, even better still from 4 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
16. A method according to any preceding claim wherein composition (B) comprises hydrogen peroxide.
17. Method according to any one of the preceding claims in which the oxidizing composition (B) is poured into the pot before the coloring and / or lightening composition (A) in step a).
18. Method according to any one of the preceding claims in which step b) of mixing compositions (A) and (B) is carried out with a spatula.
19. Method according to any one of the preceding claims in which the composition (C) resulting from the mixture of the compositions (A) and (B) has a viscosity greater than or equal to 3 Pa.s, preferably greater than or equal to 3.1 Pa.s, preferably greater than or equal to 3.2 Pa.s.
20. Method according to any one of the preceding claims in which the composition (C) resulting from the mixture of the compositions (A) and (B) has a threshold stress greater than or equal to 10 Pa, preferably greater than or equal to 10.2 Pa, better still, greater than or equal to 10.3 Pa.
21. A method according to any one of the preceding claims wherein steps c) and d) are repeated between one and ten times before step e) or f) so that all of the hair on a head is covered with composition (C).
22. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which a quantity of composition (C) corresponding to a nut is taken by hand in step c) and it is applied in step d) to the hair, several times, until all the hair on a head is covered with composition (C).
23. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which in step d) the composition (C) is first applied to the roots of the hair of a head, preferably on either side of a previously defined parting, preferably on the upper part of the head.
24. Method according to the preceding claim in which step d) defined in the preceding claim is repeated by successively applying on either side of several lines formed on the upper part of the head until all the roots of the upper part of the head and the temples are covered with composition (C).
25. Method according to the preceding claim in which after having applied the composition (C) to all the roots of the upper part of the head and the temples, the lengths of the hair of the upper part of the head are tied, preferably a bun is formed, and the composition (C) is applied to the roots of the back part of the head.
26. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition (C) present on the roots is spread by hand over the entire length of the hair, preferably after having detached the hair, preferably the bun.
27. A method according to any preceding claim wherein the pot has an internal height (H) not exceeding 125 mm, preferably not exceeding 110 mm, preferably between 50 and 110 mm.
28. 111111. Method according to any one of the preceding claims in which the pot is of circular section, with an internal diameter (D) preferably between 80 and 105 mm, better still between 90 and 95 mm.
29. Method according to any one of the preceding claims in which the volume V occupied by the composition (C) is between 70 and 150 mL, preferably between 95 and 125 mL.
30. A method according to any preceding claim wherein the V / S ratio is between 13 and 20 mm, preferably between 15.0 and 18.5 mm.
31. Method according to any one of the preceding claims in which, before step a), the compositions (A) and (B) are each contained respectively in a container, in particular a sachet, the two containers being packaged in the pot, the method comprising before step a) a step of extracting the containers from the pot.
32. Method according to any one of the preceding claims which further comprises, after step f), a step g) of washing the hair with a detergent composition (D), optionally followed by a step h) of wringing out the keratin fibres.
33. Method according to any one of the preceding claims which further comprises after step f), or after step g) or h) if they are present, a step of applying i) a care composition (E), optionally followed by a rinsing step.