Hair treatment agent with enhanced care effect

A hair treatment agent using C8-C24 alcohol esters and trimethylglycine addresses the sustainability issues of conventional products by enhancing biodegradability and care properties, achieving superior detangling and shine without silicones or mineral oils.

FR3130140B1Active Publication Date: 2025-09-19HENKEL KGAA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2022012869
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2021-12-14
Filing Date
2022-12-07
Publication Date
2025-09-19
Estimated Expiration
2042-12-07

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Conventional hair care products contain biodegradability-unfriendly ingredients like silicones and quaternary ammonium compounds, failing to meet sustainability and durability requirements while providing equivalent care effects.

Method used

A hair treatment agent comprising C8-C24 alcohol esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids and trimethylglycine, formulated in a cosmetic carrier, which eliminates silicones and quaternary ammonium compounds, enhancing biodegradability and care properties such as detangling and shine without compromising performance.

Benefits of technology

The agent provides excellent hair care benefits with improved biodegradability, transparency, and stability, offering a sustainable alternative with enhanced detangling and shine, while being free from silicones and mineral oils.

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Abstract

Hair treatment agents containing an ester of a C8-C24 alcohol and a hydroxycarboxylic acid and trimethylglycine in a cosmetic carrier are suitable for hair care, especially for improving shine and feel as well as suppleness and combability of the hair.
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Description

Title of the invention: Hair treatment agent with improved care effect

[0001] The invention relates to hair treatment agents which contain specific hydroxycarboxylic acid esters and trimethylglycine in a cosmetic carrier, and to the use of the agents for hair care.

[0002] Particularly due to the intensive stress on the hair, induced for example by coloring or perming, frequent washing with shampoos, followed by drying with a hairdryer, but also by environmental pollution, it is increasingly important to have hair care products.

[0003] At the same time, the theme of sustainability, characterized by an ever-increasing need of consumers in this regard, is increasingly at the center of concerns of cosmetics manufacturers.

[0004] Depending on their formulation, conventional hair care products generally include silicones and / or mineral oils and quaternary ammonium compounds, such as cationic surfactants and cationic (quaternized) cellulose and / or guar polymers.

[0005] However, proven care active ingredients have disadvantages in terms of biodegradability, which is why efforts are being made when providing more sustainable hair care products to eliminate silicones and / or cationic polymers while achieving an equivalent care effect.

[0006] Patent DE 102019134958 proposes hair care agents free from silicones and mineral oils and based on a combination of trimethylglycine, medium-chain triglycerides, specific diols and alkylquats. The hair care agents have good care benefits such as improving the combability of wet and dry hair.

[0007] However, the products known in the prior art cannot yet meet all the requirements for hair care products with increased durability.

[0008] The present invention therefore aims to provide hair treatment agents in which the use of conventional care active ingredients can be largely eliminated and which nevertheless guarantee excellent care of the hair fibers.

[0009] The active care ingredients used should preferably be of natural origin and have good biodegradability.

[0010] Furthermore, it is desired that production be simple, energy efficient and that the resulting hair treatment products be stable, have an attractive appearance and do not produce negative storage phenomena.

[0011] A first object of the invention is therefore a hair treatment agent containing, in a cosmetic support - relative to its total weight -

[0012] a) 0.01 to 5% by weight of an ester formed from a C8-C24 alcohol and a hydroxycarboxylic acid,

[0013] b) 0.01 to 5% by weight of trimethylglycine.

[0014] The combination of active care ingredients a) and b) in the hair treatment agents according to the invention makes it possible to eliminate silicones, mineral oils and / or quaternary ammonium compounds without accepting a deterioration in care performance.

[0015] Hair treated with the agents according to the invention has very good properties in terms of ease of detangling and combing. Its appearance is shiny and it is supple, soft and silky.

[0016] Compared to conventional active care ingredients, active ingredients a) and b) have significantly better biodegradability and thus enable the provision of more sustainable products.

[0017] Furthermore, optical advantages of the hair treatment agents according to the invention can be observed compared to conventional hair care formulations, in particular those containing cleansing surfactants, since the replacement of cationic polymers (such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) by the combination of care active ingredients a) and b) makes it possible to obtain very transparent care cleansing compositions.

[0018] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cosmetic carrier" means an aqueous, alcoholic or hydro-alcoholic carrier. Suitable hair treatment agents according to the invention may be in the form of, for example, a cream, emulsion, dispersion, gel, paste, solution, spray, but also a foaming solution containing surfactants, such as a shampoo, a foaming aerosol, a foaming formulation or other preparation suitable for use on the hair.

[0019] The cosmetic carrier preferably comprises 10 to 98% by weight, particularly preferably 20 to 95% by weight and in particular 30 to 90% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the hair treatment agents.

[0020] The hair treatment agents according to the invention contain, as the first essential ingredient - relative to their total weight - 0.01 to 5% by weight of an ester a), which is formed from a C8-C24 alcohol and a hydroxycarboxylic acid.

[0021] Suitable esters a) enhance the hair care properties of trimethylglycine and also improve hair shine.

[0022] Esters a), which are formed from a C8-C24 alcohol and an alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acid, are particularly suitable for obtaining the advantages of care mentioned.

[0023] In this context, suitable alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids are preferably malic acid, citric acid, methionine, glycolic acid, mandelic acid, lactic acid, tartronic acid or tartaric acid.

[0024] The esters a) of C8-C24 alcohol (preferably a C10-C20 alcohol and in particular a C12-C18 alcohol) and of lactic acid are very particularly preferred and can be chosen, for example, from lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate and mixtures thereof.

[0025] A caring effect of the hair treatment agents according to the invention which can be particularly well felt can be obtained if myristyl lactate is used as ester a).

[0026] The at least one ester a) is preferably used in the hair treatment agents according to the invention in an amount of 0.02 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably 0.025 to 3% by weight, very particularly preferably 0.04 to 2% by weight and in particular 0.05 to 1% by weight, the amounts indicated relating to the total weight of the hair treatment agent.

[0027] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agents according to the invention contain the esters a) of C8-C24 alcohol (preferably a C10-C20 alcohol and in particular a C12-C18 alcohol) and lactic acid, very particularly preferably lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate and mixtures thereof and particularly preferably myristyl lactate in the abovementioned amounts.

[0028] The hair treatment agents according to the invention contain, as a second essential ingredient - relative to their total weight - 0.01 to 5% by weight of trime-ethylglycine (INCI name: Betaine).

[0029] Trimethylglycine is an amino acid derivative well known for its use in cosmetic agents, and which can be obtained from natural sources such as sugar beet molasses. It is commercially available, for example, from the company Evonik under the name Tego® Natural Betaine and is used as a humectant in skin treatment preparations and as a fixing active ingredient in hair treatment agents.

[0030] It has been observed that the hair care properties of the esters a) can be further improved by adding trimethylglycine. By adding trimethylglycine, it is possible to improve the properties of dry hair in terms of ease of detangling and ease of combing, and to give the hair a soft feel right down to the ends.

[0031] Trimethylglycine is preferably used in the hair treatment agents according to the invention in an amount of 0.02 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.025 to 3% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.04 to 2% by weight and in particular from 0.05 to 1% by weight, the amounts indicated relating to the total weight of the hair treatment agent.

[0032] The hair treatment agents according to the invention can preferably be prepared in the form of conditioning agents or cleaning agents.

[0033] In these cases, they contain at least one surfactant in addition to the combination of active care agents a) + b).

[0034] Another preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the hair treatment agents contain at least one surfactant in a proportion by weight of 0.1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair treatment agent.

[0035] If the hair treatment agents according to the invention are prepared in the form of cleansing agents - for example as hair care shampoo - they preferably contain at least one surfactant from the group of anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic surfactants or mixtures thereof.

[0036] As anionic surfactants (i) in the hair treatment agents according to the invention, which are prepared in the form of a cleaning composition, all anionic surfactant substances which are suitable for use on the human body are suitable. They are characterized by an anionic, water-solubilizing group, for example a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Glycol ether or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may also be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case, in the form of sodium, potassium and ammonium salts as well as in the form of mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group,

[0037] - linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),

[0038] - ethercarboxylic acids of formula RO-(CH2-CH2O)X-CH2-COOH, R being a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,

[0039] - so-called amino acid surfactants, such as

[0040] * acylsarcosides having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

[0041] * acyltaurates having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

[0042] * acylisethionates having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

[0043] * Acylglutamates having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

[0044] * acylglycinates having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

[0045] * acylasparates having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

[0046] * acylalaninates having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

[0047] - mono- and dialkyl esters of sulfosuccinic acid having 8 to 24 carbon atoms carbon in the alkyl group and monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters of sulfosuccinic acid having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,

[0048] - sulfonates of linear alkane having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,

[0049] - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,

[0050] - alpha-sulfonated fatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 atoms of carbon,

[0051] - alkyl sulfates and alkylpolyglycol ether sulfates of formula RO(CH2 - CH2O)X-SO3H, R being a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,

[0052] - mixed surfactant hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030,

[0053] - hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene propylene glycol ethers sulfated in accordance with DE-A-37 23 354,

[0054] - unsaturated fatty acid sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344,

[0055] - esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols representing addition products of approximately 2 to 15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide on fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

[0056] - alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of formula

[0057] [Chem.l] O R29(ocH2CH2)h- O “P — OKA0 I ox

[0058] in which R29 preferably represents an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R30 represents hydrogen, a radical (CH2CH2O)nR29 or X, n represents numbers ranging from 1 to 10 and X represents hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR31R32R33R34, with R31 to R34 representing independently of each other a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical,

[0059] - alkylene glycol esters of sulfated fatty acids of formula

[0060] R35CO(AlkO)nSO3M

[0061] in which R35CO- represents a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk represents CH2CH2, CHCH3 CH2 and / or CH2CHCH3, n represents numbers ranging from 0.5 to 5 and M represents a cation, as described in DE-OS 197 36 906.5,

[0062] - monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of formula (III) as described for example in EP-B1 0 561 825, EP-B1 0 561 999, DE-AÏ 42 04 700 or by A.K.Biswas et al. in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 37, 171 (1960) and F.U.Ahmed in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 67, 8 (1990):

[0063] [Chem.2] CH?G(ObClbOV“ COR3& I CHO(CH2CH2O^H CH2O(CH^H2O^ — SO3X

[0064] in which R36CO represents a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z represents 0 in total or numbers ranging from 1 to 30, preferably from 2 to 10,

[0065] and X represents an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Monoglyceride sulfates of formula (III) are preferably used in which R36CO represents a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0066] Preferred anionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are alkyl sulfates and amino acid surfactants.

[0067] C8-C30 alkyl sulfates are particularly preferred because even when used in small amounts, they form a stable, fine-pored foam and are particularly well tolerated by the skin. In addition, they have thickening properties in aqueous solutions, which makes it possible to minimize the use of other thickeners or make them unnecessary. This makes it possible to obtain particularly mild and nourishing cleansing compositions.

[0068] Particularly preferred are C10-C24 alkyl sulfates and in particular C12-C18 alkyl sulfates, since these anionic surfactants, also called "Coco Sulfates", are obtained from natural coconut oil, and they are particularly well suited as an ECOCERT-compliant ingredient for use in the hair treatment agents according to the invention.

[0069] "Lauryl Sulfate" is also particularly suitable, the terms "Coco Sulfate" and "Lauryl Sulfate" designating the alkali metal salts, such as the potassium or sodium salts, or the ammonium salts of these compounds (such as Sodium Coco Sulfate (SCS) or Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (ALS)).

[0070] Anionic surfactants (i) may be used in the hair treatment agents according to the invention, which are prepared in the form of a cleaning composition, preferably in a proportion by weight of 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair treatment agent.

[0071] It is preferred to use amounts of 0.75 to 9% by weight, particularly preferably 1 to 8% by weight and more preferably 1 to 7.5% by weight.

[0072] Suitable amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants (ii) for the purposes of the present invention carry both a cationic charge and an anionic charge in the molecule. The amphoteric surfactants preferably have at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO or -SO3 group, in addition to an alkyl or acyl group, preferably C8-C24, in the molecule. They are also capable of forming internal salts. Particularly suitable amphoteric surfactants are betaines, such as N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, e.g. cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyla-minopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinate, e.g. cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines having, in each case, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, as well as cocoa-cylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate.A preferred amphoteric surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine. Regarding the structure and manufacture of these substances, we refer to the relevant works, e.g., J. Falbe (ed.), SURFACTANTS IN CONSUMER PRODUCTS, Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1987, pp. 54-124 or J. Falbe (ed.), KATA-LYSATOREN, TENSIDE UND MINERALÔLADDITIVE, Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 1978, pp.123-217.

[0073] Amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants (ii) may be used in the hair treatment agents according to the invention, which are prepared in the form of a cleaning composition, preferably in a proportion by weight of 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair treatment agent.

[0074] It is preferred to use amounts of 0.75 to 19% by weight, particularly preferably 1 to 18% by weight and particularly preferably 1 to 17.5% by weight.

[0075] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agents according to the invention which are prepared in the form of a cleaning composition contain, relative to their total weight,

[0076] (i) 0.5 to 10% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant,

[0077] (ii) 0.5 to 20% by weight of at least one amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant

[0078] (iii) or mixtures of (i) and (ii).

[0079] Mixtures of (i) and (ii) are preferred because a mixture provides a very good balance between good cleansing power and low drying of the skin.

[0080] In another preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agents according to the invention, which are prepared in the form of a cleansing composition, contain alkyl sulfates and betaines or mixtures thereof in the above-mentioned amounts.

[0081] In these embodiments, hair treatment agents according to the invention are particularly preferred which contain - relative to their total weight -

[0082] - 0.01 to 5% by weight of lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate or mixtures thereof. of these,

[0083] - 0.01 to 5% by weight of trimethylglycine,

[0084] - 0.5 to 10% by weight of C8-C30 alkyl sulfates, in particular sulfate salts of coconut and / or lauryl sulfate,

[0085] - 0.5 to 20% by weight of betaines, in particular cocamidopropyl betaines.

[0086] If the hair treatment agents according to the invention are in the form conditioning agents, they preferably contain at least one surfactant from the group of cationic surfactants.

[0087] In another preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agents according to the invention contain - relative to their total weight - 0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant.

[0088] Cationic surfactants are understood to mean surfactants, i.e., surface-active compounds having one or more positive charges respectively. Cationic surfactants contain only positive charges. Usually, these surfactants are composed of a hydrophobic part and a hydrophilic head group, the hydrophobic part generally consisting of a hydrocarbon skeleton (consisting, for example, of one or two linear or branched alkyl chains), and the positive charge(s) being located in the hydrophilic head group. Cationic surfactants adsorb at interfaces and aggregate in aqueous solution above the critical micellar concentration into positively charged micelles.

[0089] Examples of cationic surfactants are

[0090] - quaternary ammonium compounds which, as hydrophobic radicals, may carry one or two alkyl chains having a chain length of 8 to 28 carbon atoms,

[0091] - quaternary phosphonium salts substituted by one or more alkyl chains having a chain length of 8 to 28 carbon atoms or

[0092] - tertiary sulfonium salts.

[0093] In addition, the cationic charge may also be in the form of an onium structure forming part of a heterocyclic ring (e.g., an imi- ring). dazolium or pyridinium). In addition to the functional unit that carries the cationic charge, the cationic surfactant may also contain other uncharged functional groups, as is the case, for example, with esterquats.

[0094] Examples of suitable quaternary ammonium compounds are compounds of formula (X)

[0095] [Chem.3]

[0096] where

[0097] - R12, R13, R14 represent, independently of each other, an alkyl group in C1-C6, a C2-C6 alkenyl group or a C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl group,

[0098] - R15 represents a C8-C28 alkyl group and

[0099] - X- represents a physiologically compatible anion.

[0100] R12, R13 and R14 preferably represent, independently of each other, a methyl group or an ethyl group or a 2-hydroxyethyl group. R12, R13 and R14 very particularly preferably represent a methyl group.

[0101] The radical R15 represents a C8-C28 alkyl group. R15 preferably represents a C12> alkyl group, a C10 alkyl group, a C16 alkyl group, a C[8] alkyl group, a C20 alkyl group or a C22 alkyl group. The above-mentioned alkyl groups are preferably linear. Most preferably, R15 represents a linear C16 alkyl group, a linear C18 alkyl group or a linear C20 alkyl group.

[0102] Particularly preferred cationic surfactants of formula (X) are, for example, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride or mixtures thereof.

[0103] Also suitable are cationic imidazolium compounds of formula (XI)

[0104] [Chem. 4]

[0105]

[0106]

[0107]

[0108]

[0109]

[0110] [YES]

[0112]

[0113] Or - R16 represents a C1-C6 alkyl group, - R17, R18 represent, independently of each other, a C7-C27 alkyl group and - X- represents a physiologically compatible anion. Particularly preferred compounds of formula (XI) are known under the INCI name Quatemium-87. Esterquats are also particularly suitable. Esterquats are known substances that contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred esterquats are salts of quaternized fatty acid esters with triethanolamine, salts of quaternized fatty acid esters with diethanolalkylamines, and salts of quaternized fatty acid esters with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. These products are, for example, marketed under the trademarks Stepantex®, Dehyquart®, and Armocare®. Examples of this type of esterquat are the products Armocare® VGH-70, an N,N-Bis(2-Palmitoyloxyethyl)dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart® F-75, Dehyquart® C-4046, Dehyquart® L80, and Dehyquart® AU-35. Particularly suitable esterquats are compounds of formula (XII), [Chem. 5]

[0114]

[0115] Or - R19, R20 represent, independently of each other, a C1-C6 alkyl group or a C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl group,

[0116] - R21, R22 represent independently of each other a C7-C27 alkyl group And

[0117] - X- represents a physiologically compatible anion.

[0118] Particularly suitable esterquats of formula (XII) are those bearing the INCI names Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride, Dioleylethyl Dimonium Chloride, Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, Dioleylethyl Hydroxye-thylmonium Methosulfate or mixtures thereof.

[0119] X- represents in formulae (X) to (XII), in each case, a physiologically compatible anion. Suitable physiologically compatible anions are halide (especially chloride or bromide), hydrogen sulfate, sulfate, benzenesulfonate, p-toluenesulfonate, acetate, citrate, lactate, tartrate, methyl sulfate (H3COSO3 ), methylsulfonate or trifluoromethanesulfonate. A- particularly preferably represents methyl chloride, bromide or sulfate (H3COSO3 ).

[0120] Other suitable cationic surfactants include amidoamines, permanently cationic amidoamines and mixtures thereof.

[0121] Particularly suitable amidoamines may be chosen from brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyldimethylamine, myristamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, cocamidopropyldimethylamine, ricinolamidopropyldimethylamine, isostearamidopropyldimethylamine, oleamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, palmamidopropyldimethylamine or mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred are brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldimethylamine or mixtures thereof.

[0122] Particularly suitable permanently cationic amidoamines may be selected from behenamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, behenamidopropyl-PG-dimonium chloride, oleamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, oleamidopropyl-PG-dimonium chloride, cocamidopropylethyl-dimonium ethosulfate, cocamidopropyltrimonium chloride, ricinoleamido-propylethyldimonium ethosulfate, rinoleamidopropyltrimonium chloride, ricinoleamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, undecyleneamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, lauramidopropyl-PG-dimonium chloride, canolamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate or mixtures thereof.

[0123] The caring capacity of the hair treatment agents according to the invention can be further improved by adding other components.

[0124] Other preferred ingredients that can enhance the caring effect of the hair treatment agents according to the invention include:

[0125] - non-ionic surfactants or non-ionic emulsifiers,

[0126] - moisturizing active ingredients,

[0127] - fatty alcohols,

[0128] - vegetable oils,

[0129] - or mixtures thereof.

[0130] In another preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agents according to the invention additionally contain - relative to their total weight - 0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one non-ionic surfactant or emulsifier.

[0131] Suitable non-ionic surfactants or emulsifiers are understood to mean:

[0132] - sorbitan fatty acid esters and ethylene oxide adducts on sorbitan fatty acid esters, e.g. polysorbates,

[0133] - alkyl(oligo)glucosides,

[0134] - mixtures of alkyl(oligo)glucosides and fatty alcohols, for example the product commercially available Montanov®68 and Monatov® 202,

[0135] - partial esters of polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms with fatty acids saturated having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

[0136] - polyglycerol esters having 2 to 20 glycerol units and fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,

[0137] - sterols, By sterols is meant a group of steroids which support a group hydroxyl at carbon 3 of the steroid structure and are isolated from animal tissues (zoosterols) as well as from plant fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol, and sitosterol. Sterols, specifically mycosterols, are also isolated from fungi and yeasts.

[0138] - Phospholipids. Among them are in particular the phospholipids of glucose which are, for example, extracted as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines, for example, from egg yolks or plant seeds (e.g. soybeans).

[0139] Suitable alkyl(oligo)glycosides may be selected from compounds of the general formula RO-[G]X in which [G] is preferably derived from aldoses and / or ketoses having 5 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably derived from glucose.

[0140] The index x represents the degree of oligomerization (DP), i.e. the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides. The index x preferably has a value in the range from 1 to 10, particularly preferably in the range from 1 to 3, which may not be an integer, but may be a fraction, which can be determined analytically.

[0141] The particularly preferred alkyl(oligo)glycosides have a degree of oligomerization of between 1.2 and 1.5. The radical R preferably represents at least one alkyl radical and / or one alkenyl radical having from 4 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0142] Particularly preferred alkyl(oligo)glycosides are the compounds known as Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Coco Glucoside, Arachidyl Glucoside or mixtures thereof.

[0143] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agents according to the invention contain at least one alkyl(oligo)glycoside as non-ionic surfactant or as non-ionic emulsifier, in particular Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Coco Glucoside, Arachidyl Glucoside or mixtures thereof.

[0144] In another preferred embodiment, it may be advantageous for the hair treatment agents according to the invention to contain a mixture of arachidic alcohol and arachidyl glucoside. Such mixtures are available, for example, under the trade name Montanov® 202. This is a non-ionic emulsifier without palm oil and which has better biodegradability than conventional non-ionic emulsifiers - mostly alkoxylated.

[0145] In another preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agents according to the invention additionally contain - relative to their total weight - 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one moisturizing active ingredient.

[0146] In the context of the present invention, the term "hydrating active ingredients" means ceramides, plant extracts, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, polyols, lactic acid, sodium lactate, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylates, carbitol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, medium-chain triglycerides, urea or mixtures thereof.

[0147] The hair treatment agents according to the invention may comprise one or more moisturizing active ingredients from one or more of these groups.

[0148] In the context of the present invention, suitable polyols are understood to mean, preferably, polyalcohols (or polyhydroxylated compounds) having 2 to 20 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. Typical examples of suitable polyols according to the invention are ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol (pentylene glycol), 1,3-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, glycerol, diglycerol, erythritol, sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, mannitol, isomaltitol, lactitol, sorbitol, xylitol, fructose, glucose, lactose, galactose or mixtures of these polyols.

[0149] Particularly preferred are glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol and mixtures of the above-mentioned substances. Particularly preferred are 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, dipropylene glycol and / or diglycerol.

[0150] Glycerol and penthylene glycol are particularly preferred.

[0151] In the context of the present invention, medium-chain triglycerides are understood to mean glyceric esters of glycerol and fatty acids having 6 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, and in particular caprylic / capric triglycerides.

[0152] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agents according to the invention contain as moisturizing active ingredient

[0153] - glycerol,

[0154] - pentylene glycol,

[0155] - Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride

[0156] - or their mixtures,

[0157] in a proportion by weight of 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair treatment agents.

[0158] In another preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agents according to the invention additionally contain - relative to their total weight - 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one vegetable oil, a fatty alcohol or mixtures thereof.

[0159] The hair treatment agents according to the invention may contain, as suitable fatty alcohols, saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having 6 to 30, preferably 10 to 22 and most preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms. The following may be used, for example, within the meaning of the invention: decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, ricinolyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list being illustrative and not limiting.

[0160] In a preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohols can be obtained from natural fatty acids, which can generally be obtained from the esters of the fatty acids by reduction.

[0161] The hair treatment agents according to the invention - in particular the hair treatment agents according to the invention prepared in the form of conditioning agents - preferably contain stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, arachidic alcohol, behenyl alcohol or mixtures thereof.

[0162] In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agents according to the invention contain stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol or mixtures thereof in a proportion by weight of 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair treatment agent.

[0163] The hair treatment agents according to the invention may contain as suitable natural (vegetable) oils Ricinus Communis (castor oil), crab seed oil, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cotton seed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, orange oil, palm oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, rice bran oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, kernel oil sea ​​buckthorn, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, walnut oil, wheat germ oil,wild rose oil, liquid portions of coconut oil or their mixtures.

[0164] In another preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agents according to the invention contain 0.01 to 1% by weight of apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, almond oil, olive oil or mixtures of these oils.

[0165] Particularly good stability and particularly good hair care results (in particular with regard to hair shine and sensory properties (such as softness and suppleness) can be achieved without over-conditioning (oily, heavy hair) if the hair treatment agents according to the invention do not contain, in addition to the active ingredients mentioned above, any other fatty phase constituents, in particular no silicone oil and / or mineral oil.

[0166] In another preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agents according to the invention are therefore free of silicones and / or mineral oils.

[0167] For the purposes of the present application, "free from" means that the hair treatment agents according to the invention do not contain freely added silicones and / or mineral oils. If silicones and / or mineral oils are contained as by-products in the commercial products used, their proportion by weight relative to the total weight of the hair treatment agents according to the invention is preferably a maximum of 0.25% by weight, more preferably a maximum of 0.10% by weight.

[0168] The hair treatment agents according to the invention may contain other optional active substances, provided that these do not affect the efficacy or the formulation of the agents. Optional active substances include, for example, the following substances:

[0169] - protein hydrolysates,

[0170] - vitamins,

[0171] - anti-dandruff agents,

[0172] - carbohydrates,

[0173] - bioquinones,

[0174] - purines,

[0175] - ectoine,

[0176] - UV filtering substances,

[0177] - structuring agents such as maleic acid and lactic acid,

[0178] - swelling agents such as urea, allantoin, carbonates or hydantoin,

[0179] - dyes for coloring the agent, although this is not preferred according to the invention,

[0180] - complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, [3-alanine diacetic acid and acids phosphonic,

[0181] - nacres such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate,

[0182] - pigments,

[0183] - pH adjusting agents such as citric acid, lactic acid, acid glutamic and / or succinic acid,

[0184] - thickeners such as NaCl or natural hydrocolloids such as gum xanthan, caesalpinia spinosa gum or mixtures thereof,

[0185] - propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N2O, dimethyl ether, CO2 and air,

[0186] - antioxidants,

[0187] - perfume oils, fragrances and aromatic substances, although this is not preferred according to the invention, when it comes to perfume oils, perfumes and synthetic aromatic substances.

[0188] The hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably have a pH in the range from 2 to 6, more preferably from 2.5 to 5.5, and in particular from 3 to 5.

[0189] The invention may be characterized by the following numbered statements:

[0190] 1. Hair treatment agent, containing, in a cosmetic carrier - by relative to its total weight -

[0191] a) 0.01 to 5% by weight of an ester formed from a C8-C24 alcohol and a hydroxycarboxylic acid,

[0192] b) 0.01 to 5% by weight of trimethylglycine.

[0193] 2. Hair treatment agent according to statement 1, containing ester a) in an amount from 0.02 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.025 to 3% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.04 to 2% by weight and in particular from 0.05 to 1% by weight, the amounts indicated relating to the total weight of the hair treatment agent.

[0194] 3. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding statements, the ester a) being formed from a C8-C24 alcohol and an alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acid.

[0195] 4. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding statements, the ester a) being formed from a C8-C24 alcohol and an alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acid, selected from malic acid, citric acid, methionine, glycolic acid, mandelic acid, lactic acid, tartronic acid or tartaric acid.

[0196] 5. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding statements, the ester a) being formed from a C8-C24 alcohol and lactic acid.

[0197] 6. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding statements, the ester a) being chosen from lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate or mixtures thereof.

[0198] 7. Hair treatment agent according to statement 6, the ester a) being myristyl lactate.

[0199] 8. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding statements, containing the tri methylglycine in an amount of 0.02 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably 0.025 to 3% by weight, very particularly preferably 0.04 to 2% by weight and in particular 0.05 to 1% by weight, the amounts indicated relating to the total weight of the hair treatment agent.

[0200] 9. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding statements, containing at least at least one surfactant in a proportion by weight of 0.1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair treatment agent.

[0201] 10. Hair treatment agent according to statement 9, containing - with respect to its total weight -

[0202] (i) 0.5 to 10% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant,

[0203] (ii) 0.5 to 20% by weight of at least one amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant

[0204] (iii) or mixtures of (i) and (ii).

[0205] 11. Hair treatment agent according to one of statements 9 or 10, containing a ten anionic alkyl sulfate surfactant, a betaine surfactant or mixtures thereof.

[0206] 12. Hair treatment agent according to one of statements 1 to 9, containing - by relative to its total weight - 0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant.

[0207] 13. Hair treatment agent according to one of statements 10 to 12, containing - by relative to its total weight - in addition 0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one non-ionic surfactant or emulsifier.

[0208] 14. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding statements, containing - by relative to its total weight - in addition 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one moisturizing active ingredient.

[0209] 15. Hair treatment agent according to statement 14, the at least one active ingredient moisturizer being chosen from ceramides, plant extracts, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, polyols, lactic acid, sodium lactate, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, carbitol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ethers, medium chain triglycerides, urea or mixtures thereof.

[0210] 16. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding statements, containing - by relative to its total weight - in addition 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one vegetable oil, one fatty alcohol or their mixtures.

[0211] 17. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding statements, containing a natural oil, selected from Ricinus Communis (Castor Oil), Crab Seed Oil, Amaranth Seed Oil, Apricot Kernel Oil, Argan Oil, Avocado Oil, Babassu Oil, Cotton Seed Oil, Borage Seed Oil, Camelina Oil, Safflower Oil, Peanut Oil, Pomegranate Seed Oil, Grapefruit Seed Oil, Hemp Seed Oil, Hazelnut Oil, Elderberry Oil, Blackcurrant Seed Oil, Jojoba Oil, Cocoa Butter, Linseed Oil, Macadamia Nut Oil, Corn Oil, Almond Oil, Marula Oil, Evening Primrose Oil, Olive Oil, Orange Oil, Palm Oil, Peach Kernel Oil, Rapeseed Oil, Rice Bran Oil, Sea Buckthorn Pulp Oil, Sea Buckthorn Kernel Oil, Sesame Oil, Shea Butter, Soybean Oil, Oil sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, wild rose oil, liquid portions of coconut oil or mixtures thereof.

[0212] 18. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding statements, containing a fatty alcohol selected from stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, arachidic alcohol, behenyl alcohol or mixtures thereof.

[0213] 19. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding statements, which is free silicones and / or mineral oils.

[0214] 20. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding statements, produced under shampoo form.

[0215] 21. Hair treatment agent according to one of statements 1 to 19, produced in the form of a hair treatment agent with or without rinsing.

[0216] 22. Hair treatment agent according to one of statements 1 to 19, produced in the form of a hair styling or shaping agent.

[0217] 23. Use of a hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding statements for hair care.

[0218] 24. Use according to statement 23 for the improvement of the following properties

[0219] - shine,

[0220] - touch,

[0221] - flexibility,

[0222] - ease of combing,

[0223] hair.

[0224] 25. Method of using a hair treatment agent according to one of statements 1 to 22, the method comprising applying the hair treatment agent to the hair and optionally a step of rinsing with water after leaving the hair treatment agent to act for 10 seconds to 10 minutes.

[0225] The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject of the present invention, without however limiting it.

[0226] Examples:

[0227] The following hair treatment agents according to the invention were prepared (the figures given are expressed in [% by weight]):

[0228] 1) Hair care shampoos

[0229] [Tables 1] 1 2 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 16 3 Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate 4 Sodium Cocosulfate 5 Jojoba Oil 0.1 Glycerol 2 2 Coco Glucoside 2.5 Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside 0.6 0.6 Myristyl Lactate 0.3 0.5 Trimethylglycine (Betaine) 1 1 Sodium Chloride 1 1 Water, Preservative, Fragrance, pH Adjusting Agent Supplement to 100 Supplement to 100

[0230] 2) Conditioning agent

[0231] [Tables2] 1 2 Cetearyl Alcohol 4 3 Glycerol 4 3 Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride 2 1 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 1 Glyceryl Stearate 0.5 Avocado Oil 0.5 Arachidyl Alcohol 0.3 Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum 0.08 Myristyl Lactate 0.25 0.5 Trimethylglycine (Betaine) 0.3 1 Water, Preservative, Fragrance, pH Adjusting Agent Supplement to 100 Supplement to 100

[0232] 3) Care spray

[0233] [Tables3] 1 2 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 3 Cetearyl Alcohol 1 Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride 1.5 Pentylene Glycol 1 Glycerol 0.5 2 Arachidyl Alcohol 0.6 Trimethylglycine (Betaine) 1 1 Behenyl Alcohol 0.4 Arachidyl Glucoside 0.3 Argan Oil 0.05 Myristyl Lactate 0.5 0.2 Alcohol Denat. 25 PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate 2 Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine 1.25 Tocopheryl Acetate 0.2 Cetrimonium Chloride 0.125 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein 0.1 Water, Preservative, Fragrance, pH Adjuster Supplement to 100 Supplement to 100

[0234] All of the hair care compositions 1) to 3) provide excellent care benefits to the treated hair, including improved shine, feel, suppleness and ease of combing.

[0235] Their effect essentially corresponds to the effect of conventional hair care products (based on silicones, mineral oils and / or cationic polymers).

[0236] Hair care shampoos 1) also have the advantage over conventional care shampoos of being very transparent and having a creamy lather with extremely fine pores. The use of cationic deposition polymers can be omitted to achieve the aforementioned care benefits.

Claims

Claims

1. Hair treatment agent, containing, in a cosmetic carrier - relative to its total weight - a) 0.01 to 5% by weight of an ester formed from a C8-C24 alcohol and lactic acid, b) 0.01 to 5% by weight of trimethylglycine, wherein the hair treatment agent is free from silicones and / or mineral oils.

2. A hair treatment agent according to claim 1, wherein the ester a) comprises or consists of myristyl lactate.

3. A hair treatment agent according to any preceding claim, containing at least one surfactant in a weight proportion of 0.1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair treatment agent.

4. Hair treatment agent according to claim 3, containing - relative to its total weight - (i) 0.5 to 10% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant, (ii) 0.5 to 20% by weight of at least one amphoteric and / or zwit-terionic surfactant (iii) or mixtures of (i) and (ii).

5. Hair treatment agent according to one of claims 1 to 3, containing - relative to its total weight - 0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant.

6. Hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding claims, containing - relative to its total weight - in addition 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one moisturizing active ingredient, chosen from ceramides, plant extracts, hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, polyols, lactic acid, sodium lactate, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, carbitol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ethers, medium-chain triglycerides, urea or mixtures thereof.

7. Use of a hair treatment agent according to one of the preceding claims for hair care, in particular for improving the following properties - shine, - feel, - suppleness, - ease of combing hair.