Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising vanillin or one of its derivatives, a non-ionic surfactant, and optionally at least one additional antimicrobial

Abstract

The present invention relates to an aqueous cosmetic composition comprising vanillin or one of its derivatives, a nonionic surfactant, and optionally at least one additional antimicrobial. This invention relates to a composition, particularly a cosmetic one, comprising water and: i) at least one (C1-C6)(alkyl)vanillin, as well as its organic or mineral base salts, and its solvates such as hydrates; ii) at least one nonionic surfactant selected from compounds of formula (I); and iii) optionally at least one additional antimicrobial. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising vanillin or one of its derivatives, a non-ionic surfactant, and optionally at least one additional antimicrobial

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising water and:

[0002] i) at least one (Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin, one of its organic or mineral base salts, or one of its solvates such as hydrates,

[0003] ii) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from compounds of formula (I), and

[0004] iii) optionally at least one additional antimicrobial.

[0005] Microorganisms can survive and multiply in water-containing products, whether cosmetic, pharmaceutical, or food. Preservatives are generally added to industrial preparations intended for storage or preservation to prevent microbial growth over time.

[0006] Microbial contamination can occur during the manufacture of industrial products, even when the starting ingredients used in said products are "clean," i.e., free of contaminating microorganisms. Water, for example, which is ubiquitous in most cosmetic, pharmaceutical, or food products, must be free of contaminating microorganisms. Other ingredients must also be screened for the presence of contaminating microorganisms.

[0007] Cleanliness during the manufacture of these industrial products, the processing of the contents, and the filling of the containers must be meticulously monitored. Despite these precautions, the microbial integrity of the products may require the presence of one or more preservatives compatible with the product and the stability of its composition. The preservatives must not allow the growth or viability of contaminating microorganisms.

[0008] Even if a restrictive production in a sterile environment can be industrially feasible, maintaining sterility over repeated uses is in itself a problem, in particular when the product can be touched with fingers and / or instruments such as applicators, and / or when its container can be opened and closed, because all these manipulations are a source of contamination.

[0009] The use of preservatives is therefore common practice to reduce microbial contamination introduced by consumers under normal conditions of use. As a general rule, pathogenic microorganisms must be absent from all marketed products, particularly cosmetics.

[0010] Compounds useful for the microbial protection of compositions, particularly cosmetics, must also be stable to guarantee their long-term effectiveness and must not exhibit solubility, odor, and / or compatibility characteristics that make them difficult to use. Furthermore, it is desirable to diversify the compounds usable for antimicrobial protection to avoid generating resistance.

[0011] There is therefore a need for new ingredients or new mixtures of ingredients which are effective in the antimicrobial protection of compositions, in particular cosmetics, which are stable, easily formulate and which do not generate odor or color after incorporation into said compositions, in particular after several months of storage at a temperature greater than or equal to 25 °C, in particular between 37°C and 45°C.

[0012] Furthermore, there is also a need to formulate compositions that include several antimicrobials, remain stable over time, and, in particular, do not change in appearance and / or color over time, even after several weeks or even several months of storage at a temperature of 25°C or higher, especially between 37°C and 45°C. It is particularly important that the composition does not change color over time, especially for light-colored cosmetic compositions such as very light or brightening foundation creams, skincare creams (often white), and other compositions applied to the skin or hair. Indeed, for consumers, a change in color can be a sign that the active ingredients have changed and that the product has become unfit for consumption.The use of vanillin in formulations is problematic because it is an ingredient that can change color over time, turning dark brown, more or less quickly depending on its environment, particularly temperature, oxygen, and / or light.

[0013] The present invention meets these needs.

[0014] Surprisingly, the Applicant identified mixtures of compounds i) and ii) exhibiting clear antimicrobial efficacy. These specific mixtures remain stable even after several weeks, or even several months, at room temperature or even at temperatures above 25°C, particularly between 37°C and 45°C.

[0015] Moreover, such mixtures do not develop an unpleasant odor over time. Furthermore, no significant change in odor has been observed over time, even after several weeks of storage.

[0016] The present invention thus relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic one, comprising water and:

[0017] i. at least one (Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin, one of its organic or mineral base salts, or one of its solvates such as hydrates; ii. at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from the compounds of formula (I) and their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, their optical isomers, and their solvates:

[0018] [Chem 1]

[0019] RrC(O)-N(H)-CH(R2)-C(O)-OR3(I)

[0020] Formula (I) wherein:

[0021] - Ri represents a (C6-C2o)alkyl group;

[0022] - R2 represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group possibly substituted by a guanidine group, possibly substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups; and

[0023] - R3 represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, and

[0024] i. optionally at least one additional antimicrobial, preferably chosen from:

[0025] • C2 to C6 alkanols, • C2 to C10 polyols, • pyridines substituted at position 3 by an amide group RR'NC(O)- and their solvates such as hydrates, with R and R', identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C6)alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, a (C2-C6)alkenyl group such as allyl, a (hetero)aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl group such as benzyl or pycolyl, and • their mixtures.

[0026] The combination of i), ii) and possibly iii) corresponds to the antimicrobial mixture.

[0027] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method for keratinous materials, comprising applying a composition according to the invention to said keratinous materials. The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for the care, makeup, and / or cleansing of keratinous materials, comprising applying a composition according to the invention to said keratinous materials.

[0028] The invention also relates to a method of preserving a composition Cl comprising a physiologically acceptable medium comprising water, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition Cl, which includes the incorporation of compounds i) and ii) and optionally iii) according to the invention in said composition CL. By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and / or hair appendages (including keratin fibers, in particular human, such as hair).

[0029] The invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention as an antimicrobial agent, in particular against bacterial strains (e.g., Enterococcus faecalis), yeasts (e.g., Candida albicans) and / or

[0030]

[0031]

[0032]

[0033] molds (for example Aspergillus brasiliensis). i) Vanillin and alkoxylated derivative The composition according to the invention comprises at least one (Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin or one of its basic organic or mineral salts, or one of its solvates such as hydrates. By "(Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin" we mean vanillin i.e. 3-methoxy-4-hydroxybenzaldehyde and its derivatives having a (C2-C6)alkyl group in place of the methyl of the methoxy in position 3 of the 4-hydroxybenzaldehyde. More specifically, the (Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin of the invention has the following formula (II): [Chem. 2]

[0034]

[0035]

[0036]

[0037]

[0038] (II) Formula (II) in which R” represents a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl. A "(Ci-C6)alkyl group" is a Ci-C6 saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, preferably in Ci-C4 ((CrC4)alkyl group) such as methyl or ethyl. (Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin, its organic or mineral base salts, or its solvates such as hydrates, may be of natural or synthetic origin. According to one embodiment of the invention, (Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin, its organic or mineral base salts, or its solvates such as hydrates, are found in the form of organic or mineral base salts, such as alkali metal salts (Na+, K+), alkaline earth metal salts (Mg2+, Ca2+), and ammonium ions. They may be of natural or synthetic origin. The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an amount of (Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin, its organic or mineral base salts, or its solvates such as hydrates, of between 0.01% and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.05% and 1% by weight, and even more preferably between 0.1% and 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. ii) Non-ionic surfactant The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one non-surfactant ionic chosen from compounds of formula (I) as well as their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, their optical isomers, and their solvates such as hydrates:

[0039] [Chem 1]

[0040] RrC(O)-N(H)-CH(R2)-C(O)-OR3(I)

[0041] Formula (I) wherein:

[0042] - Ri represents a (C6-C2o)alkyl group;

[0043] - R2 represents a hydrogen atom or possibly a (Ci-C6)alkyl group substituted by a guanidine group, possibly substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups; and

[0044] - R3 represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group.

[0045] By "organic or mineral acid salt", one means more particularly the salts chosen from a salt derived from i) hydrochloric acid HCl, ii) hydrobromic acid HBr, iii) sulfuric acid H2SO4, iv) alkylsulfonic acids: Alk-S(O)2OH such as methylsulfonic acid and ethylsulfonic acid; v) arylsulfonic acids: Ar-S(O)2OH such as benzenesulfonic acid and toluenesulfonic acid; vi) citric acid; vii) succinic acid; viii) tartaric acid; ix) lactic acid, x) alkoxysulfinic acids: Alk-OS(O)OH such as methoxysulfinic acid and ethoxysulfinic acid; xi) aryloxysulfinic acids such as tolueneoxysulfinic acid and phenoxysulfinic acid; xii) phosphoric acid H3PO4; xiii) acetic acid CH3C(O)OH; and xiv) triflic acid CF3SO3H and xv) tetrafluoro-roboric acid HBF4.

[0046] By "organic or mineral base salt", we mean the salts of bases or of alkali agents as defined below as alkali metal hydroxides such as soda, potash, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

[0047] A "(C6-C20)alkyl group" is a CrC2O saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, preferably in Ci-C6 ((Ci-C6)alkyl group), more preferably CrC4 ((CrC4)alkyl group) such as methyl or ethyl.

[0048] Preferably, in formula (I), Ri represents a (C6-C20)alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably linear, more particularly Ri represents a (C8-C12)alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably linear.

[0049] Preferably, in formula (I), R2 represents a hydrogen atom.

[0050] Alternatively, preferably, in formula (I), R2 represents a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, preferably substituted by a guanidine group optionally substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups. According to this embodiment, R2 is substituted by a guanidine group -NH-C(=NH)-NH2.

[0051] Preferably, in formula (I), R3 represents a hydrogen atom.

[0052] Alternatively, preferably, in formula (I), R3 represents a group (Ci-C6 )alkyl.

[0053] Preferably, the compound of formula (I) is chosen from laurylethyl arginate and N-octanoyl glycine (also called capryloyl glycine), preferably N-octanoyl glycine.

[0054] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an amount of non-ionic surfactant of formula (I), preferably capryloyl glycine, of between 0.01% and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. iii) Additional antimicrobial

[0055] The composition according to the invention optionally comprises at least one additional antimicrobial A.

[0056] Thus, said additional antimicrobial A is not (Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin or its salts and / or solvates i), and is not the non-ionic surfactant of formula (I) ii) as defined above.

[0057] The term "antimicrobial agent" or "antimicrobial" or "preservative" means any cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable compound that prevents the growth of microorganisms that may occur in compositions, particularly cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions, from their formulation through storage to their normal use by consumers. Examples of preservatives include those described in Cosmetics, Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Martin M. Rieger; 5.2 preservatives & table 3, 04 / 12 / 2000 https: / / doi.org / 10.1002 / 0471238961.0315191318090507.a01 or https: / / library.essentialwholesale.com / alcohol / .

[0058] Preferably, the additional antimicrobial A may be selected from sodium dehydroacetate; carboxylic benzene acids optionally substituted on the phenyl group by one or more groups selected from hydroxy, (Ci-Cio)alkyl and (Ci-Cio)alkylacarbonyl, as well as their base salts, in particular of alkali and alkaline earth metals, preferably benzoic acid or sodium benzoate; esters of hydroxybenzoic acid optionally substituted on the phenyl group by one or more groups selected from (Ci-Cio)alkyl such as parabens, in particular methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben or butylparaben; potassium sorbate; salicylic acid optionally substituted by a (CrC8)alkylcarbonyl group, preferably salicylic acid;chlorhexidine digluconate, chlorphenesin, polyaminopropyl biguanide, benzyl alcohol, myrtrimonium bromide, LAE (Ethyl Lauroyl Arginate HCl), phenoxyethanol, octopirox, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, C2 to C6 alkanols, the; polyols in C2 to C10, pyridines substituted at position 3 by an amide group RR'NC(O)- and their solvates such as hydrates, with R and R', identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, a (C1-C6)alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, (C2-C6)alkenyl such as allyl, (hetero)aryl(C1-C4)alkyl such as benzyl or pycolyl and their mixtures.

[0059] Most preferably, said additional antimicrobial A iii) is selected from C2-C6 alkanols, C2-C10 polyols, pyridines substituted at position 3 by an amide group RR'NC(O)- and their solvates such as hydrates, with R and R', identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, a (C1-C6)alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, a (C2-C6)alkenyl group such as allyl, a (hetero)aryl(C1-C4)alkyl group such as benzyl or pycolyl, and mixtures thereof.

[0060] Preferably, the C2 to C6 alkanol is a C2 to C6 aliphatic monoalcohol. Preferably, said aliphatic monoalcohol comprises from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0061] The term "aliphatic monoalcohol" means any saturated, linear or branched alkane compound having a single hydroxyl (OH) group. The aliphatic monoalcohol(s) present in the compositions of the invention may be chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, and mixtures thereof. Ethanol is the preferred choice.

[0062] The term "polyol" means any saturated, linear or branched alkane compound comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms substituted by at least 2 hydroxyl groups and optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as O, N, S, particularly O, preferably with 2 to 4 hydroxyl groups. Preferably, the polyol comprises 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0063] Preferably, the polyol(s) having 2 to 10 carbon atoms are chosen from glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, heptane diols, caprylyl glycol and their mixtures, more preferably glycerol.

[0064] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the additional antimicrobial A iii) is chosen from among pyridines substituted at position 3 by an amide group RR'NC(O)- and their solvates such as hydrates, with R and R', identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C6)alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, (C2-C6)alkenyl such as allyl, (hetero)aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl such as benzyl or pycolyl, preferably R and R' represent a hydrogen atom.

[0065] Preferably the pyridine substituted at position 3 by an amide group RR'NC(O)- of the invention is niacinamide, also called vitamin B3, of formula (III): [Chem. 3]

[0066]

[0067]

[0068]

[0069]

[0070]

[0071]

[0072]

[0073]

[0074]

[0075] (III) or one of its solvates such as hydrates. Preferably, the additional antimicrobial A is a mixture of niacinamide and at least one C2 to C10 polyol and / or at least one C2 to C6 alkanol. Preferably, the additional antimicrobial A is chosen from ethanol, glycerol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, niacinamide and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the additional antimicrobial A is a mixture of glycerol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol and niacinamide. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one C2 to C6 alkanol and / or one C2 to C10 polyol in a content of 1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 1.5% to 13% by weight, and more preferably 2% to 8% by weight. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises pyridine substituted at position 3 by an amide group RR'NC(O)- or one of its solvates in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight. pH of the composition The pH of the composition according to the invention is generally between 3 and 10 approximately, preferably between 3 and 8 approximately, preferably between 4 and 7 approximately, and preferably between 4 and 6, preferably between 4.2 and 5. Preferably, the pH of the composition is approximately 4.6. It can be adjusted to the desired value using acidifying or alkaline agents commonly used for the treatment of keratinous materials, or using conventional buffer systems. Examples of acidifying agents include mineral or organic acids as defined above, particularly those (i) to (xv) classified as "salts of organic or mineral acids." Specifically, the acidifying agent is chosen from hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids. The term "alkaline agent" or "base" refers to an agent that increases the pH of the composition in which it is found. An alkalizing agent is a Brønsted, Lowry, or Lewis base. It can be mineral or organic. Particularly the said agent is chosen from a) ammonia, b) (bi)carbonate, c) alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives d) oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, e) organic amines, f) mineral or organic hydroxides, g) alkali metal silicates such as sodium metasilicates, h) amino acids of basic preference such as arginine, lysine, omithine, citrulline and histidine, and i) compounds of the following formula (F):

[0076] [Chem 4]: WWK R, (H

[0077] Formula (F) wherein:

[0078] - W is a divalent alkylene radical in the Ci-C6 group, possibly substituted by one or several hydroxyl groups or an alkyl radical in Ci-C6, and / or possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as O, or NRU;

[0079] - Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a alkyl radical in Ci-C6 or hydroxyalkyl in Ci-C6, aminoalkyl in Ci-C6.

[0080] Examples of amines of formula (F) include 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino 2-propanol, spermine, spermidine.

[0081] By "alkanolamine" is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched alkyl groups, in Ci-C8 bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.

[0082] Among the mineral or organic hydroxides, one may mention those chosen from a) the hydroxides of an alkali metal, b) the hydroxides of an alkaline earth metal, such as sodium or potassium hydroxides, c) the hydroxides of a transition metal, d) the hydroxides of lanthanides or actinides, quaternary ammonium hydroxides and guanidinium hydroxide, the mineral or organic hydroxides a) and b) being the preferred.

[0083] Among the bases or alkali agents, we can cite, by way of example, the alkali agents as described below and in particular the natural alkali agents, in particular the preferably basic amino acids such as arginine. iv) Fatty substances

[0084] The composition may also include one or more fatty substances.

[0085] By "fatty substance," we mean an organic compound insoluble in water at ordinary room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) (solubility less than 5% and preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.1%). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two groups siloxane. In addition, fats are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, ethanol, benzene, petroleum jelly or decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane.

[0086] The fat(s) of the invention are of natural or synthetic origin, preferably natural, and more preferably of vegetable origin. These fats are preferably neither polyoxyethylenated nor polyglycerolated. They differ from fatty acids because saline fatty acids constitute soaps that are generally soluble in aqueous media.

[0087] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more non-liquid fats at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0088] The wax(s)

[0089] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more waxes.

[0090] By "wax" is meant a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 °C), with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 °C which can go up to 200 °C and in particular up to 120 °C.

[0091] In particular, the wax(s) suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45 °C, and in particular greater than or equal to 55 °C. The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a wax content ranging from 3% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 5% to 15%, more particularly from 6% to 15%.

[0092] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention is solid, in particular anhydrous. It can then be in stick form; polyethylene micro-waxes in the form of crystallites with a form factor of at least 2 and a melting point of 70 to 110 °C, and preferably 70 to 100 °C, will be used in order to reduce or even eliminate the presence of layers in the solid composition.

[0093] The paste compound(s)

[0094] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more paste compounds.

[0095] By "pasty compound" in the context of the present invention, we mean a lipophilic fatty compound with reversible solid / liquid phase change, having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, and comprising at a temperature of 23 °C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0096] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more liquid fats at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure, particularly hydrocarbons.

[0097] Preferably the composition of the invention comprises one or more fatty substances hydrocarbon liquids which are in particular selected from hydrocarbons and in C6-C16 or more than 16 carbon atoms up to 60 carbon atoms, preferably between C6 and C16, and in particular alkanes, oils of animal origin, oils of vegetable origin, glycerides or fluorinated oils of synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, silicones.

[0098] In particular, the liquid fat(s) are chosen from non-siliconized oils.

[0099] It is recalled that, for the purposes of the invention, alcohols, esters, and fatty acids more particularly have one or more hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 60 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (OH) (in particular from 1 to 4 hydroxyl groups). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three unsaturations, preferably of 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0100] With regard to the C6-Ci6 alkanes, these are linear or branched, possibly cyclic; preferably the fatty substances (iv) of the invention are chosen from linear or branched C8-Ci4 alkanes, more preferably C9-Cb, and even more preferably C9-C12. Examples include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, or isododecane. The linear or branched hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms may be chosen from paraffin oils, petrolatum, polydecenes, and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®.

[0101] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the fat(s) iv) are hydrocarbon oils, linear or branched, which are volatile, in particular selected from undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, and their mixture of different oils, preferably volatile including isododecane in the mixture, or a mixture of undecane and tridecane, preferably a mixture of undecane and tridecane.

[0102] Advantageously, the composition comprises one or more fats, in particular liquids at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure, preferably one or more oils, of the fatty medium, in a content ranging from 0.01% to 99.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 70% by weight, preferably ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 5% to 20% by weight. v) Additional surfactants

[0103] Preferably the composition of the invention comprises one or more surfactants v) different from ii), preferably non-ionic, in particular chosen from fatty alcohols (poly)alkoxylated, preferably (poly)glycerolated.

[0104] The (poly)alkoxylated fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are more particularly chosen from alcohols having 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and more particularly 12 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty (poly)alkoxylated alcohol(s) preferably have the following formula (IV): [Chem 5]

[0105] Ra-[O-ALK]n-OH (IV)

[0106] Formula (IV) wherein:

[0107] - Ra representing a linear or branched alkyl or linear or branched alkenyl group in C8-C40, preferably in C8-C30, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups; and - ALK represents a (Ci-C6)alkylene group, linear or branched, possibly substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, preferably (Ci-C4)alkylene, such as ethylene; - n represents an integer between 1 and 200 inclusively, preferably between 2 and 50, more particularly between 8 and 30 inclusively such that 20.

[0108] According to a particular embodiment, the compounds of formula (IV) are chosen from mono- or polyglycerols, preferably polyglycerols, they preferably comprise on average from 1 to 40 glycerol groups, more particularly from 10 to 30 glycerol groups such as 20.

[0109] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the surfactants v) are mono-glycerolated or polyglycerolated and are preferably chosen from compounds with the following formulas:

[0110] [Chem 6]

[0111] RO[CH2CH(CH2OH)O]mH (IVa),

[0112] RO[CH2CH(OH)CH2O]mH (IVb) or

[0113] RO[CH(CH2OH)CH2O]mH (IVc);

[0114] Formulas (IVa) to (IVc) wherein:

[0115] - R represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, containing 8 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms

[0116] - m is a number between 1 and 30, preferably between 1 and 10, more particularly R is a compound with a molecular weight of 1.5 to 6. R may optionally include heteroatoms such as oxygen and nitrogen. In particular, R may optionally include one or more hydroxyl and / or ether and / or amide groups. R preferably designates alkyl and / or alkenyl radicals in the form C10-C20, possibly mono- or polyhydroxylated. More preferably, the surfactants (v) are polyglycerolated and selected from polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate and polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0117] According to another embodiment, the compound(s) of formula (IV) are chosen among fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms and oxy(Ci-C6)alkylated by 1 to 30 moles of alkylene oxide.

[0118] Preferably, the additional surfactant(s) v) are chosen from fatty (poly)ethoxylated alcohols of the following formula:

[0119] [Chem 7]

[0120] Ra-[O-CH2-CH2]n-OH (IV')

[0121] Formula (IV') in which:

[0122] - Ra representing a linear or branched alkyl or linear or branched alkenyl group in C8-C40, preferably in C8-C30, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and - n represents an integer between 1 and 200 inclusively, preferably between 2 and 50, more particularly between 8 and 30 inclusively such that 20.

[0123] More particularly, the surfactant(s) v) are selected from (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols; more particularly, fatty alcohols comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms and oxyethylenated with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide (1 to 30 EO). Among these, the following may be mentioned more particularly: 2 EO lauryl alcohol, 3 EO lauryl alcohol, 3 EO decyl alcohol, 5 EO decyl alcohol and 20 EO oleyl alcohol.

[0124] A mixture of at least 2 different (poly)alkoxylated fatty alcohols can also be used, preferably of at least 2 different (poly)glycerolated fatty alcohols, more preferably chosen from the mixture of polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate and polyglyceryl-4 isostearate. Water

[0125] The composition includes an aqueous phase, i.e. also includes water.

[0126] Water can constitute the continuous or dispersed phase.

[0127] The composition preferably comprises from 1% to 98% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 10% to 80% by weight, preferably from 15% to 65% by weight.

[0128] According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a quantity of fat greater than the quantity by weight of water.

[0129] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a quantity by weight of water greater than the quantity of fat. Galenics

[0130] The compositions of the invention can be presented in different galenic forms, such as aqueous gels, direct (O / W) or reverse (W / H) emulsions, multiple emulsions (O / W / H or W / O / W) or dispersions, where the aqueous phase is the continuous or dispersed phase.

[0131] The compositions of the invention may be in the form of a dermatological or skincare composition, or even in the form of a sun protection composition. In the latter case, it is in a colorless form, possibly containing cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients different from compounds i) to iii). It can then be used as a base for skin or lip care.

[0132] The composition of the invention may also be in the form of a coloured skin makeup product, in particular a foundation, a blush, a cheek or eyeshadow, or lip makeup such as a lipstick or eyelash or eyebrow makeup such as a mascara.

[0133] The composition of the invention may also be in the form of a hair product, coloured or uncoloured, in particular a conditioner, a care cream, or in the form of a deodorant.

[0134] The compositions according to the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, or a foam. They may optionally be applied to the skin in aerosol form. They may also be in solid form, for example as a stick or a compact powder. Additional ingredients

[0135] The compositions of the invention may further comprise one or more additional ingredients selected from: a) gelling agents; b) film-forming or non-film-forming polymers; c) thickening or non-thickening polymers; d) colouring materials such as pigments, natural or synthetic direct dyes; e) fillers such as synthetic or non-synthetic micas; f) UV filters; g) surfactants other than ii); h) natural or synthetic cosmetic or dermatological actives such as plant extracts; i) perfumes; j) sequestering or chelating agents; k) and their salts or mixtures.

[0136] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises one or more coloring materials, preferably d) one or more pigments; more preferably the pigment(s) of the invention are chosen from carbon black, titanium oxides and iron oxides, in particular black, and micas coated with iron oxide, even more preferably iron oxides and titanium oxide.

[0137] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises one or more sequestering agents.

[0138] The sequestering agent(s) is / are preferably chosen from among the salts of formula (V) as well as their optical isomers, and their solvates such as hydrates:

[0139] [Chem 8]

[0140] [OC(O)-CH2]2N-CH(COO)-(CH2)2-C(O)O, nM+(V)

[0141] Formula (V) wherein:

[0142] - M+, identical or different, is chosen from H+, alkali metal cations, the alkaline earth metal cations and ammonium ions, and - n is an integer such that the number of M+ ensures the electroneutrality of the molecule, preferably between 2 and 4, more particularly equal to 2 or 4.

[0143] Particularly when M+, identical or different, is chosen from alkali metal cations and ammonium ions, then n is equal to 4. When M+, identical or different, is chosen from alkaline earth metal cations, then n is equal to 2.

[0144] By "alkali metal cations" we mean in particular Na+ and K+ ions.

[0145] By "alkaline earth metal cations" we mean in particular Mg2+ and Ca2+ ions.

[0146] Preferably, the M+ cations are identical.

[0147] Preferably, M+ is chosen from among the alkali metal cations.

[0148] Preferably, M+ is Na+.

[0149] Preferably, the sequestering agent(s) have the formula (V') and their isomers:

[0150] [Chem 9]

[0151] [OC(O)-CH2]2N-CH(COO)-(CH2)2-C(O)0.4Na+(V')

[0152] This compound of formula (V') is tetrasodium glutamate diacetate. This compound is notably marketed by Akzo Nobel under the name Dissolvine GL-47-S.

[0153] According to another embodiment, the sequestering agent is selected from ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts. Ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid is the compound of formula (VI) as well as their salts of organic or mineral bases, particularly mineral such as M+OH with M+ as defined above, their optical isomers and their solvates such as hydrates:

[0154] [Chem. 10] O-, ...OH. H j: HO, .A, A VVN' OH ô -k H HQ' 'O (VI).

[0155] Preferably, the salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid is chosen from alkali metal salts, such as potassium and sodium salts, ammonium salts, and amine salts. Alkali metal salts of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid are particularly preferred.

[0156] Preferably, the salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid used according to the invention is trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate. Such a compound is, for example, that marketed under the name Natrlquest® E30 by the company Innospec Active Chemicals (dispersion of the compound at 37% by weight of active matter in water), or the one marketed under the name Octaquest E30® by the company Octel Performance Chemicals.

[0157] According to another embodiment, the sequestering agent is chosen from ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts. Preferably, the EDTA salt is chosen from alkali metal salts, such as sodium salts, in particular the disodium salt of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (disodium EDTA).

[0158] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an amount of sequestering agent, in particular of formula (V) or EDDS or EDTA or their salts, of between 0.01% and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 0.7% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 0.% by weight.

[0159] According to one embodiment of the invention the composition comprises one or more fillers e) such as synthetic or non-synthetic micas, in particular Synthetic Fluor-phlogopite CAS No.: 12003-38-2.

[0160] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a quantity as filler e), of between 0.05% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight.

[0161] The invention is now illustrated by the following example.

[0162] Unless otherwise stated, quantities are given as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of composition (% w / w). EXAMPLE: FOUNDATION

[0163] DESCRIPTION OF THE ANTIMI- EFFICACY TEST PROTOCOL CROBIAN

[0164] The effectiveness of the mixture i) and ii) and possibly iii) according to the invention is evaluated by means of the challenge test which makes it possible to determine the level of antimicrobial protection of a composition.

[0165] It consists of artificially contaminating the product to be tested with various microorganisms (bacteria, yeasts and molds) and monitoring the number of viable germs over time.

[0166] A product that is satisfactorily protected must allow for decontamination of introduced microorganisms, decontamination that is more or less rapid depending on the microbial strains, the type of product and the packaging material.

[0167] The product is divided into as many pillboxes as there are microorganisms to be tested. A calibrated suspension of microorganisms is introduced into each of these pillboxes.

[0168] The effectiveness of the formula protection is tested on a limited but selected microbial spectrum among species likely to contaminate the product, both in terms of brication only during its use. In this case, it includes a bacterium (Ente-rococcus faecalis), a yeast (Candida albicans) and a mold (Aspergillus bra-siliensis).

[0169] The sample taken to count the microorganisms remaining in the product takes place after 7 days of contact between the product and the germ.

[0170] The dilutions carried out to perform the enumerations are inoculated onto Petri dishes.

[0171] The kinetics (growth or decay) for a given seed at a given time is then expressed as a logarithmic reduction.

[0172] The acceptability criteria applied are those defined in Annex B (Evaluation criteria for the antimicrobial protection efficacy test) of ISO11930:2019 (Cosmetics - Microbiology - Evaluation of the antimicrobial protection of a cosmetic product), reproduced below. Evaluation criteria for the ISO11930:2019 standard

[0173] [Tables]

[0174] If the formulation meets criteria A, the microbiological risk is considered acceptable (the cosmetic product is protected against microbial proliferation that could present a potential risk to the user), and the cosmetic product meets the requirements of ISO 11930:2019 without further justification.

[0175] For the evaluation of effectiveness, only criteria A “T7” will be taken into consideration.

[0176] For the mold Aspergillus brasiliensis, the result of the challenge test obtained will be judged compliant if the criterion required after 28 days of product / germ contact is reached from 7 days of contact.

[0177] EVALUATION OF THE PROTECTION UNIVERSITY OF A FOUNDATION

[0178] Compounds i), ü) and üi) are formulated in a foundation, a typical example of which has the following composition:

[0179] Composition 1 is according to the invention, while compositions 2 to 3 are comparative.

[0180] These compositions are prepared according to a classic process for a person skilled in the art.

[0181] [Tables2] Ingredients (% w / w) Composition 1 Invention Composition 2 Comparative Composition 3 Comparative Vanillin i) 0.25 0 0.25 Capryloyl glycine ii) 0.5 0.5 0 Glycerol iii) 5 5 5 Magnesium sulfate 0.7 0.7 0.7 Undecane & Tridecane iv) (Cetiol UT) 11 11 11 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate v) 1 1 1 Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate v) 1 1 1 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (Dissolvine GL-47-S by Akzo Nobel) 0.2 0 0 Synthetic Fluorphlogopite CAS No.: 12003-38-2 1.6 1.6 1.6 Titanium dioxide 12.4 12.4 12.4 Iron oxides 2.44 2.44 2.44 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100

[0182] The effectiveness of each composition 1 to 3 is evaluated using the challenge test which makes it possible to determine the level of antimicrobial protection of a composition.

[0183] The results are detailed in the tables below. ACTION ON A BACTERIA

[0184] The decay kinetics, expressed as logarithmic reductions, on the microbial strain Enterococcus faecalis after 7 days of germ / product contact are data in the table below:

[0185] [Tables3] Compositions Logarithmic reductions after 7 days of contact Composition 1 (invention) <4 Composition 2 (comparative) <4 Composition 3 (comparative) 0.4 ACTION ON YEAST

[0186] The results on the Candida albicans microbial strain after 7 days of germ / product contact are given in the table below:

[0187] [Tables4] Compositions Logarithmic reductions after 7 days of contact Composition 1 (invention) <4 Composition 2 (comparative) 0 Composition 3 (comparative) 2.5 ACTION AGAINST MOLD

[0188] The results on the microbial strain Aspergillus brasiliensis after 7 days of germ / product contact are given in the table below:

[0189] [Tables5] Compositions Logarithmic reductions after 7 days of contact Composition 1 (invention) 3.3 Composition 2 (comparative) 0 Composition 3 (comparative) 4

[0190] The example shows that only the combination according to the invention allows effective antimicrobial protection.

[0191] It appears from the results of the tables above that the combination of vanillin and capryloyl glycine according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a mixture exhibiting excellent antimicrobial activity and provides a marked improvement in the level of microbiological protection, after 7 days of contact, in particular against the bacterium Enterococcus faecalis, the yeast Candida albicans and the mold As-pergillus brasiliensis.

[0192] For this same mixture, the level of decontamination observed on the 2 strains Enterococcus faecalis and Candida albicans complies with criterion A described in the ISO 11930:2019 standard.

[0193] For the mold Aspergillus brasiliensis, the result is also considered to be compliant, as the required decontamination is achieved after 7 days of contact.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, including cosmetic, comprising water and: i. at least one (Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin, one of its organic or mineral base salts, or one of its solvates such as hydrates; ii. at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from compounds of formula (I) and their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, their optical isomers, and their solvates: R1-C(O)-N(H)-CH(R2)-C(O)-OR3(I) Formula (I) in which: - Ri represents a (C6-C20)alkyl group; - R2 represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group possibly substituted by a guanidine group possibly substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups; and - R3 represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, and i. possibly at least one additional antimicrobial, preferably chosen from C2-C6 alkanols, C2-C10 polyols, and pyridines substituted at position 3 by an amide group RR'NC(O)- and their solvates such as hydrates, with R and R', identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, a (C1-C6)alkyl, (C2-C6)alkenyl, (hetero)aryl(C1-C4)alkyl group, and mixtures thereof.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein i) (Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin is of the following formula (II): Formula (II) in which R” represents a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably a (CrC4)alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, comprising an amount of (Ci-C6)(alkyl)vanillin, its organic or mineral base salts or its solvates such as hydrates, of between 0.01% and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.05% and 1% by weight, and even more preferably between 0.1% and 0.5% by weight.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a nonionic surfactant of formula (I) selected from laurylethyl arginate and capryloyl glycine, preferably capryloyl glycine.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a non-ionic surfactant of formula (I) in a content of 0.01% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, and more preferably 0.2% to 0.8% by weight.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one additional antimicrobial iii) selected from polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably selected from glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, heptane diols, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof, more preferably glycerol.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, comprising at least one additional antimicrobial iii) selected from pyridines substituted at position 3 by an amide group RR'NC(O)- and their solvates such as hydrates, with R and R', identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C6)alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, (C2-C6)alkenyl such as allyl, (hetero)aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl such as benzyl or pycollyl, preferably R and R' representing a hydrogen atom; preferably the pyridine(s) substituted at position 3 by an amide group RR'NC(O)- is nia-cinamide.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising (iv) at least one fat, preferably liquid at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure, particularly hydrocarbon, which is in particular selected from hydrocarbons and in C6-Ci6 or with more than 16 carbon atoms up to 60 carbon atoms, preferably between C6 and Ci6, and in particular chosen from alkanes, oils of animal origin, oils of vegetable origin, glycerides or fluorinated oils of synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, silicones; more preferably the fat body iv) is chosen from linear or branched alkanes, in C8-C14, even more preferably in C9-C13 better in C9-Ci2; more particularly the fat body iv) is chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbon oils, which are volatile, in particular chosen from undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, and their mixtures of different oils, volatile preferably including isododecane in the mixture, or a mixture of undecane and tridecane.

9. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more surfactants (v) other than (ii), preferably non-ionic, in particular selected from fatty (poly)alkoxylated alcohols, particularly selected from alcohols having from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 12 to 22 carbon atoms; preferably of the following formula (IV): Ra-[O-ALK]n-OH (IV) Formula (IV) wherein: - Ra representing a linear or branched alkyl group or linear or branched alkenyl group in C8-C40 preferably in C8-C30 possibly substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups; - ALK represents a (Ci-C6)alkylene group, linear or branched, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, preferably (Ci-C4)alkylene, such as ethylene; and - n represents an integer between 1 and 200 inclusively, preferably between 2 and 50, more particularly between 8 and 30 inclusively, such as 20.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising (v) one or more monoglycerol or polyglycerol surfactants selected from compounds of the following formulas: RO[CH2CH(CH2OH)O]mH (IVa), RO[CH2CH(OH)CH2O]mH (IVb) or

11.

12. RO[CH(CH2OH)CH2O]mH (IVc); Formulas (IVa) to (IVc) in which: - R represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms; - m is a number between 1 and 30, preferably between 1 and 10, more particularly from 1.5 to 6; R may optionally include heteroatoms such as, for example, oxygen and nitrogen; in particular, R may optionally include one or more hydroxyl and / or ether and / or amide groups; R preferably designates alkyl and / or alkenyl radicals of the form C10-C20, possibly mono- or polyhydroxylated; Preferably, surfactants (v) are polyglycerol-based and selected from polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to claim 8, comprising a quantity by weight of water greater than the quantity of fat. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising one or more additional ingredients selected from: a) gelling agents; b) film-forming or non-film-forming polymers; c) thickening or non-thickening polymers; d) coloring materials such as pigments, natural or synthetic direct colorants; e) fillers such as synthetic or non-synthetic micas; f) UV filters; g) surfactants other than those in ii); h) natural or synthetic cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients such as plant extracts; i) perfumes; j) sequestering or chelating agents; k) and their salts or mixtures; particularly one or more coloring materials d) preferably one or more pigments; more preferably the pigment(s) of the invention are chosen from carbon black, titanium oxides and iron oxides, in particular black, and micas coated with iron oxide, even more preferably iron oxides and titanium oxide; particularly one or more sequestering agents, preferably chosen from salts of formula (V) as well as their solvates such as hydrates: [ OC(O)-CH2]2N-CH(COO )-(CH2)2-C(O)O, nM+(V) Formula (V) in which M+, identical or different, is chosen from H+, alkali metal cations, alkaline earth metal cations, and ammonium ions, and n is an integer such that the number of M+ ensures the electroneutrality of the molecule, preferably between 2 and 4, more particularly equal to 2 or 4; preferably, the sequestering agent is tetrasodium glutamate diacetate; particularly one or more e) charges such as synthetic or non-synthetic micas, in particular synthetic Fluorphlogopite.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, having a pH between 3 and 10, preferably between 3 and 8, preferably between 4 and 6, and preferably between 4 and 5.

5.

14. A method for preserving a composition Cl comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition Cl, which includes the incorporation of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 into said composition Cl.

15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for its use as an antimicrobial agent, in particular against bacterial strains (e.g. Enterococcus faecalis), yeasts (e.g. Candida albicans) and / or molds (e.g. Aspergillus bra-siliensis).