Cosmetic composition comprising a vegetable wax, a vegetable oil or butter, an N-acyl amino acid salt, a specific water-insoluble powder and a specific polyol.

Abstract

A cosmetic composition comprising: a) at least one vegetable wax, optionally hydrogenated and transesterified or not; b) at least one compound based on vegetable triglycerides, optionally hydrogenated; c) at least one compound of the N-acyl amino acid salt type; d) at least one water-insoluble powder of selected type; and e) at least one polyol of specified formula. Uses of this composition include, in particular, eyelash or eyebrow makeup or skin cleansing. A process for treating cosmetic substrates with this composition is also described.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising a wax of plant origin, an oil or butter of plant origin, an N acyl amino acid salt, a particular water-insoluble powder and a particular polyol.

[0001] In the field of cosmetics, a current trend is towards the substitution of synthetic fats with fats of natural origin to meet three parameters that have become well established in the minds of consumers. The first parameter is a distrust of chemistry and more particularly petrochemicals, a source of pollution in the public mind. The second parameter is the existence of doubts about the safety of certain products. We can mention in this regard the suspicions caused by the use of silicones. The third parameter is linked to ecology. There is now a desire to limit the carbon footprint of the compounds used. With this in mind, the use of ingredients obtained from renewable raw materials of plant origin is an area that is developing. However, the use of natural fatty substances does not prevent the maintenance of consumer requirements. In particular, consumers want to have a range of very varied textures such as fluids, creams, milks, gels. They also want the cosmetic impact of the application of products on cosmetic substrates such as the skin, lips, appendages (hair, body hair, nails) to be pleasant and not cause unpleasantness such as dryness, stickiness, roughness. Furthermore, consumers want to be able to easily remove products without necessarily using aggressive means such as shampoos most often formulated with surfactants such as alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates, the ideal being to be able to remove the applied products simply with the action of water.

[0002] To achieve the aforementioned objectives, the applicant recommends cosmetic compositions comprising: a) at least one vegetable wax whose ester component is based on monoesters and / or diesters, optionally hydrogenated and which may or may not be transesterified b) at least one compound based on vegetable triglycerides, optionally hydrogenated c) at least one compound of the N acyl amino acid salt type (d) at least one water-insoluble powder selected from carbon-based colored pigments or natural absorbent powders containing silicon e) at least one polyol of formula OH-[CH2-Rl-(O)p]nH in which: RI denotes a monohydroxyalkyl radical chosen from the radicals CH(OH)-CH2, CH(OH)-CH2-CH2 , CH(OH)-CH2-CH2-CH2 , CH2-CH(OH)-CH2 , CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-CH2 n denotes 1 or 2 or 3 p denotes 0 or 1

[0003] By vegetable wax whose ester component is based on mono and / or diesters, it is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, that all of the mono and diesters constitute the largest weight portion of the esters of the wax a), before any possible transesterification or hydrogenation reaction. This vegetable wax, derived directly from plants by fractionation, can possibly be chemically transformed but only by hydrogenation and / or by transesterification (by reaction with an alcohol). By compound based on vegetable triglycerides, possibly hydrogenated, is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, that the triglycerides derived directly from plants by fractionation and whose only chemical modification may be hydrogenation, constitute the largest weight part of compound b), before any possible hydrogenation reaction. By insoluble colored pigment we mean a colored species, therefore neither white nor colorless. By water-insoluble is meant a compound whose solubility in water at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) is less than 0.1% by weight. For the purposes of the present invention, the term absorbent powder means a powder capable of absorbing at least 100% of its own weight of water at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa). By natural absorbent powder is meant an absorbent powder present in nature as is or obtained by fractionation involving only solubilization, extraction, separation or hydrolysis operations.

[0004] The compositions of the invention make it possible to produce all the desired textures. Furthermore, all the ingredients a) to e) can be bio-sourced. Finally, these compositions can be easily removed from the cosmetic substrate on which they are applied by simply using water.

[0005] In the prior art, document CN105832649 (A) by PENG ZHIYU describes skin care compositions and in particular facial cleansers in the form of gels containing, among many ingredients, a sodium salt of lauroyl sar-cosinate acid. It also contains a transesterified jojoba wax (jojoba wax PEG 120 esters), an olive oil and a hydrogenated castor oil, but these vegetable oils are present in a chemically modified form (PEG 40 hydrogenated castor oil and Olive oil PEG 7 esters). Liquid polyols are also present, but unspecified structure (butanediol without further details), or with a specified structure different from that of the polyols of the invention (1,2 hexanediol and 1,3 propylene glycol). Furthermore, there is no mention in the compositions of colored pigments, nor of absorbent powders insoluble in water. Finally, the purpose of the compositions in the document is to allow more efficient cleaning. Nothing is indicated on the ease of removal. Document WO2008037609 (A1) from UNILEVER PLC describes liquid cleaning compositions comprising a C6-C20 acyl sarcosinate surfactant, hydrocarbon emollients in the form of oils or waxes, fatty acids and water. The description includes long lists of emollients. The oils include vegetable oils, which may be hydrogenated, but also silicone oils, synthetic triglycerides, mineral oil, squalane, squalene, synthetic fatty esters, and essential oils that are not triglycerides. The waxes include vegetable waxes, but also beeswax, lanolin, spermaceti, ozokerite, microcrystalline wax (a wax produced by deoiling petroleum jelly), polyethylene, and fatty alcohols. The only examples of oil / wax mixtures are mixtures from vaseline oil and mineral oil with a microcrystalline wax. It is possible to add polyhydric alcohols as additional emollients such as glycerin, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols. In the examples only the combination of sodium lauroyl sarcosinate plus soybean oil plus glycerin without the addition of vegetable wax is illustrated. In the text there is no mention of colored pigments. In the optional additives there is simply the mention of coloring agents without further details. Also in this document there is no mention of water-insoluble absorbent powders as claimed in category d). The main purpose of this document is to provide stable and foaming compositions. Nothing is mentioned about their removal. Documents CN109875928 (A) of the company GUANGZHOU SHANGZI COSMETICS CO LTD and CN109528519 of the company SHENZEN MEIFUYUAN DALLY NECESSITIES CO LTD both concern lip balms containing at least one oil or butter of vegetable origin and at least one vegetable wax (jojoba seed oil, meadowfoam oil, coconut oil, sunflower oil, safflower oil and candelilla wax for the first ingredient, palm oil, sweet almond oil or strawberry oil, shea butter and candelilla or carnauba or palm wax for the second ingredient). Among the other ingredients of the compositions are also mentioned derivatives of lauroyl glutamate but which are in fact esters (phytosterol / octyldecanol / lauroyl glutamate for the first document, dioctyldodeca-nollauroyl glutamate for the second document. These esters which are notably com marketed for the first by the company AJINOMOTO under the name ELDEW PS 203 and for the second by the company NIHON EMULSION CO LTD under the name AMITER LG 2000 are in fact non-ionic compounds. Furthermore, the only polyols mentioned in document CN109528519 are modified polyols of the polyol ester type such as polyglerol triisostearate. The purpose of the compositions in this document is to provide plumping, soft and non-irritating lip balms. In document CN109875928, there is no mention of carbon pigments. It is even specified that the compositions do not contain at least synthetic pigments. In document CN109528519, the only polyol mentioned is also an ester, namely pentaerythritol tetraisostearate. This document provides for the possibility of the presence of dyes or pigments and aluminum lakes of carbon compounds are cited.The purpose of this document is to provide moisturizing, covering, stable and anti-wrinkle compositions for the lips. Furthermore, neither of these two documents mentions water-insoluble absorbent powders. Document CN104161709 (A) from YAN AIHUA concerns a facial cleanser with chlorophyll containing, among other ingredients, sodium lauroyl glutamate, glycerol, butanediol (without further details), a transesterified jojoba wax (jojoba wax PEG 120 ester). There is no mention of the use of natural triglycerides or dyes or pigments. The name of the product is probably related to the presence of an Aloe Vera leaf extract which must contain chlorophyll which is a natural water-soluble green dye. This document also does not mention water-insoluble absorbent powders such as those provided for in category d). The purpose of this document is also to provide gentle, non-irritating, water-retaining, refreshing and pleasant cleansing lotions. Document DE 102010030555 (Al) from HENKEL AG proposes hair treatment kits comprising two compositions that can be mixed before application to the hair. The first composition, called a hair treatment, consists of at least 60% ingredients chosen from a long list of nearly 200 compounds including capryloyl glycine, glycerin, disodium cocoyl glutamate, hydrogenated vegetable oils, jojoba esters, hydrogenated jojoba wax, polyglycerol esters of acacia, jojoba and sunflower waxes. The second composition is a care composition comprising care active ingredients chosen from quaternary ammoniums, tertiary amines or silicones.In the examples, a combination of glycerin and sodium cocoyl glutamate is described in the treatment composition which can be mixed with a care composition comprising a hydrogenated oil but chemically modified PEG 40 hydrogenated castor oil, therefore without vegetable wax. In this document, the possibility of adding natural inorganic pigments without others is mentioned. details on their nature and whether they are colored or not. As an absorbent powder insoluble in water, we do not find compounds of natural origin and containing silicon. Furthermore, the aim of this document is to provide compositions with controlled natural contribution allowing to obtain excellent care performances without mentioning the elimination of these compositions. Document WO2007042723 (A1) from the company GATTEFOSSE describes excipients for cosmetic compositions comprising particular esters obtained in particular by transesterification of vegetable waxes with polyols. Among these polyols are diols and glycols, glycerol and di and polyglycerols. Among the additional ingredients of the compositions are mentioned emulsifiers, solvents such as water, ethanol and liquid or solid polyols such as sorbitol outside formula (I) of the polyols of the invention, coloring materials such as pearlescent agents and pigments without further details as well as vegetable oils as fats. In the lists of gelling agents or fillers, among many compounds are some absorbent powders of type d). The emulsifiers cited in the text and illustrated do not include acylated derivatives of amino acids. The purpose of synthesizing these excipients is to provide emulsifying and emollient systems for the production of cosmetic compositions. There is no mention of the removal of these compositions from the cosmetic substrates to which they are applied. None of the cited published prior art documents therefore describe compositions according to the invention. Furthermore, they never mention the problem of removing the compositions they claim when they are applied to anatomical substrates. In the applicant's unpublished French patent application FR2014309, even though the N acyl glutamate representing category c) is not even mentioned in the description, a composition comprising at least one ingredient from each of categories a) to c) and e is nevertheless described in one of the examples. There is therefore no compound d) according to the present invention.

[0006] The compositions of the invention comprise at least one vegetable wax a) based on mono and / or diesters, optionally hydrogenated and which may or may not be transesterified. With the exception of a few specific cases, plant waxes are produced and located on the surface of the aerial parts of plants, at the level of their cuticle. Vegetable cuticular waxes are essentially made up of aliphatic compounds that can be roughly divided into two groups. The first group contains the most common compounds such as alkane (C19-C37), ester (C30-C60), acid (C12-C36), primary alcohol (C12-C36) and aldehyde (C14-C34). The second group, on the other hand, contains rarer compounds such as ketones (C25-C33), secondary alcohols (C21-C33) or [3-diketones (C27-C35). Other minor, non-aliphatic elements are also encountered. These are cyclic or polycyclic compounds grouped under the term triterpenoids and present in the form of alcohol (sterols, a-amyrin, [3-amyrin, lupeol, erythrodiol, etc.) or acids (ursolic, olenolic, etc.). For true vegetable waxes, the esterification of fatty acids takes place with a mono or dihydroxy fatty alcohol, whereas for natural vegetable oils it is with glycerol, in the latter case forming triesters (triglycerides). Monoesters or diesters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols are therefore the predominant elements of the ester fraction of waxes of the invention. The fatty acids of the esters of these waxes are generally saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated carboxylic acids containing 16 to 28 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols of these same esters can be mono or di hydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated and generally contain 20 to 34 carbon atoms. Preferably the melting point of the waxes of the invention is greater than or equal to 30°C, better still greater than 35°C, even better still greater than 40°C. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example that offered by the company METTLER under the reference DSC 30. The vegetable waxes a) are preferably chosen from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, bay wax, apple wax, jojoba wax, rose wax, sunflower wax, olive wax, wax from the fruit bark of the lacquer tree (Rhus Ver-niciflua), soy wax, acacia wax, myrica wax derived from the berry bark of the Myrica Pubescens tree. As indicated previously, the vegetable waxes of the invention can be hydrogenated. These vegetable waxes, hydrogenated or not, can also be transesterified. In organic chemistry, transesterification is the process of exchanging the organic group RI of an ester RCOO-R1 with the organic group R2 from an alcohol R2-OH. This alcohol can be a monohydric alcohol or a polyhydric alcohol. These reactions are often catalyzed by the addition of an acid or base catalyst. In a preferred version of the invention, the transesterified vegetable waxes of the invention are those transesterified with a polyol preferably liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Even more preferably the polyol used for the transesterification comprises at least three hydroxy functions such as glycerin, diglycerin or triglycerol. Hydrogenation and / or transesterification are the only possible chemical transformations for obtaining the vegetable waxes a) of the invention. Apart from the chemical operations mentioned above, obtaining the vegetable waxes a) of the invention may involve one or more physical processes such as, for example, grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtration. Preferably, the vegetable wax(es) a) are chosen from hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, transesterified or non-transesterified jojoba, candelilla, sunflower or acacia waxes. The compositions of the invention comprise vegetable waxes a) in a proportion preferably ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0007] The compositions of the invention comprise at least one compound b) based on vegetable triglycerides, optionally hydrogenated. Triglycerides are triesters of glycerol with carboxylic fatty acids preferably comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms and even more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids may be saturated or unsaturated. The only possible chemical modification of compounds b) of the invention is hydrogenation. In particular, these compounds b) cannot be derived from a transesterification reaction. Compounds b) are essentially chosen from vegetable oils or vegetable butters, non-transesterified, possibly hydrogenated. Among the non-transesterified oils of plant origin that can be used in the invention, mention may in particular be made of sweet almond oil, argan oil, avocado oil, peanut oil, camellia oil, safflower oil, calophyllum oil, rapeseed oil, copra or coconut oil, coriander oil, pumpkin oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn germ oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, vernonia oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, passionflower oil, grape seed oil, rosehip oil, rye oil, sesame oil, rice bran oil, soybean oil, hemp oil, sunflower oil, oat oil, baobab oil, pomegranate oil, plum oil, borage oil, lupin oil, pistachio oil, raspberry seed oil, apple seed oil. These oils can be used as is or in hydrogenated form (partially or totally). Vegetable butters are distinguished from vegetable oils by their appearance. They are in fact in solid or semi-solid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. They contain triglycerides with a significant fraction of fatty acids saturated. These butters can be completely natural or result from at least partial hydrogenation of triglycerides containing unsaturated fatty acids. These butters can therefore be used as they are or in hydrogenated form (partially or totally). Butters generally have a melting point ranging from 25°C to 50°C. The vegetable butters as compounds b) of the invention are preferably chosen from shea butter, cocoa butter, illipe butter, mango butter, babassu butter, almond butter, jojoba butter, apricot butter, pistachio butter, argan butter, avocado butter, coconut butter, olive butter, plum butter, oat butter. Preferably, the plants from which compounds b) of the invention are derived are angiosperms and more particularly eudicotyledons or true dicotyledons in the 2016 APG IV classification of angiosperms defined in the document "An update of the Angiosperm Phylogeny Group classification for the orders and families of flowering plants: APG IV. Botanical Journal of the Linnean Society 181: 1-20. The preferred plants leading to compounds b) of the invention are those which in this classification belong to the basal eudicotyledons or to those which among the central eucotyledons belong to the superosidae and to those of the superasteridae belonging to the santalalles, caryophyllales and lamiidae and to those belonging to the apiales, aquifoliales, bruniales, dipsacales, escaloniales, paracryphiales orders of the campanulidae. Even more preferably, compounds b) are chosen from sweet almond oil, argan oil, avocado oil, peanut oil, camellia oil, safflower oil, calophyllum oil, rapeseed oil, copra or coconut oil, coriander oil, pumpkin oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn germ oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, vernonia oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, passionflower oil, grape seed oil, rosehip oil, rye oil, sesame oil, rice bran oil, soybean oil, hemp oil, oat oil, baobab oil, pomegranate oil, plum oil, borage oil, lupin oil, pistachio oil, shea butter, cocoa butter, illipe butter, mango butter, babassu butter, jojoba butter, argan butter,these compounds being non-transesterified and may or may not be hydrogenated. Hydrogenation is the only possible chemical transformation for obtaining compounds b) of the invention. Apart from this chemical operation mentioned above, obtaining the compounds b) of the invention can involve one or more physical processes such as, for example: for example, grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtration. The compositions of the invention comprise a proportion of compounds b) preferably ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0008] The compositions of the invention comprise at least one compound c) of the N acyl amino acid salt type. These compounds are anionic. The amino acids of compounds c) of the invention are carboxylic amino acids. Even more preferably, the carboxylic amino acids of the invention are hydrocarbon compounds comprising an optionally alkylated amine function and one or two carboxylic acid functions. The N acyl amino acids of the invention preferably have the following formula (II) R1-CO-N(-R2)-CH(-R3)-CO2H (II) formula in which RI denotes a C7-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical which is optionally hydroxylated R2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a (CH2)n-CO2H radical n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 4 Compounds c) of the invention may therefore be salts of these compounds of formula (I) resulting from a salification reaction via mineral or organic alkaline agents. The mineral alkaline salifying agents are preferably alkali hydroxides or alkali carbonates. The salts are then alkali metal salts, particularly sodium or potassium salts. The organic alkaline agents are preferably amine compounds and in particular alkanolamines. The salts are then, for example, monoethanolamine or triethanolamine salts. Preferably the alkyl radicals of R2 or R3 are methyl radicals. Preferably n denotes 1 or 2. Preferably the radicals RI are non-hydroxylated C7-C22 alkyl or alkenyl radicals. Compounds c) are preferably chosen from N acyl glycinates, N acyl alaninates, N acyl aspartates, N acyl glutamates and N acyl sarcosinates. Even more preferably, compounds c) are chosen from N acyl aspartates, N acyl glutamates and N acyl sarcosinates. Mention may in particular be made of N lauroyl aspartates, N lauroyl sarcosinates, N lauroyl glutamates, N capryloyl glutamates and N stearoyl glutamates. Even better, compounds c) are chosen from N acyl glutamates. The compositions of the invention preferably comprise from 0.01% to 30% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 20% by weight of these compounds c), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0009] The compositions of the invention comprise at least one water-insoluble powder d) which may be chosen from carbon-based colored pigments. As indicated above, by insoluble colored pigment we mean a colored species, therefore neither white nor colorless, whose solubility in water at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) is less than 0.1% by weight. The insoluble colored pigments d) preferably have a solubility of less than 0.05% by weight, more preferably less than 0.02% by weight at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The pigments d) of the invention are carbon pigments, i.e. containing one or more carbon atoms in their chemical structure. The simplest of these carbon pigments is carbon black, which, apart from impurities, consists solely of carbon atoms. It can be derived from petrochemicals or natural plant sources. Other carbon-based colored pigments d) are organic molecules. These may include soluble synthetic organic dyes that are insolubilized by the formation of lakes. These lakes are generally metal salts. We can thus cite organic lakes of calcium, barium, strontium, aluminum, titanium such as the aluminum lakes of DC Red 2, DC Red 3, DC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 7, DC Red 9, DC Red 19, DC Red 21, DC Red 22, DC Red 27, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Red 40, DC Blue 1, DC Green 3, DC Orange 4, DC Orange 5, DC Orange 10, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 10, FDC Blue 2, FDC Yellow 5, FDC Yellow 6, FDC Blue 1, FDC Red 40, FDC Green 3, the barium / strontium lakes of DC Red 6, DC Red 9, the lakes of strontium from DC Red 6, potassium lakes from DC Red 6, barium lakes from DC Red 7, DC Red 9, DC Red 19, DC Red 27, DC Orange 17,the calcium lakes of DC Red 7, DC Red 27, DC Red 31, DC Red 34, the calcium / strontium lakes of DC Red 7, the zirconium lakes of DC Red 7, DC Red 9, DC Red 19, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Orange 5, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 7, the sodium lakes of DC Red 8, DC Red 10, the aluminum / titanium / zirconium lake of DC Red 27. , The colored pigments d) can also be organomineral. Synthetic organomineral colored pigments include nacres coated on the surface with at least one organic colorant or pigment. In a preferred variant of the invention, the colored pigments d) used are not of animal origin. In another preferred embodiment, the carbon colored pigments are preferably of plant origin. This includes carbon black. The colored pigments d) in the form of powders may optionally be used in the compositions of the invention in the form of dispersions, the dispersing agents being able to be solids or liquids. The water-insoluble powders d) of the compositions of the invention may be chosen from natural absorbent powders containing silicon. As indicated previously, these are insoluble powders having a high water absorption capacity, at least equal to 100% of their weight. Even more preferably, this water absorption capacity is greater than or equal to 140% of their weight at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa). The water absorption capacity according to the invention can be evaluated by the tea bag technique as mentioned in patent application WO9715367 of the company CAMELOT SUPERABSORBENTS, this via the parameter FS (Free swell liquid retention), with water absorption capacity = 100 x FS. This method consists of inserting a certain quantity of absorbent powder (0.2 g) into a water-permeable tea bag and immersing said bag in water for 10 minutes with stirring. After removing the sachet from the aqueous medium, eliminating the water outside the sachet, weighing the sachet (W1) allows, after subtraction of a blank (W2) corresponding to a sachet without absorbent powder, to determine the value of FS = ((W1-W2) / W3) - 1. As absorbent powders of natural origin according to the invention containing silicon, it is possible to use in particular silicas, or powders rich in silica, or silicates.Among the silica-rich powders, we can cite perlite or diatomaceous earth. In silicates, we can use phyllosilicates. We can thus use talc, kaolinite, attapulgites, sepiolites, smectites including montmorillonite, saponite, hectorite. We can also use compounds containing these phyllosilicates, such as bentonite or kaolin clays. Aluminosilicates and compounds containing them can also be selected as natural absorbent powders according to the invention. The particle size of the water-insoluble absorbent powders (d) of the invention preferably ranges from 1 pm to 500 pm, better still from 1 pm to 250 pm, even better still from 2 pm to 100 pm and most preferably from 4 pm to 50 pm. The particle size of the powders can be determined, for example, with a particle size analyzer of the Horiba Cappa 700 type. The cosmetic compositions of the invention preferably comprise from 0.001% to 40% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 30% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 25% by weight and most preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight of water-insoluble powders d) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0010] The compositions of the invention comprise at least one polyol e) of formula OH-[CH2-Rl-(O)p]n-H (I) in which: RI denotes a monohydroxyalkyl radical chosen from the radicals CH(OH)-CH2, CH(OH)-CH2-CH2, CH(OH)-CH2-CH2-CH2, CH2-CH(OH) CH2, CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-CH2 n denotes 1 or 2 or 3 p denotes 0 or 1 In a preferred variant of the invention, the polyols e) are liquid polyols. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "liquid polyol" means a compound comprising only carbon, oxygen and hydrogen atoms, the only oxygenated groups of which are hydroxyl groups and which is liquid at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa). On a macroscopic scale, a liquid has no shape of its own and cannot be grasped, unlike a solid. It is a fluid that adapts to the shape of the container in which it is placed. When transferred to another container, a liquid still retains its volume. A liquid therefore has its own volume. At rest, the free surface of a liquid is generally flat and horizontal in equilibrium. As preferred compounds e), mention may be made of 1,2-propanediol, 1,2,3-propanetriol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,3-pentanediol, 1,4-pentanediol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,3,5-pentanetriol, 3-(2,3-dihydroxypropoxy)propane-1,2-diol, 3-[3-(2,3-dihydroxypropoxy)-2-hydroxypropoxy]propane-1,2-diol. These compounds often have one or more other common names such as: 1,2-propanediol: propylene glycol 1,2,3-propanetriol: glycerol or glycerin 1,3-butanediol: butylene glycol 1,2-pentanediol: pentylene glycol 3-(2,3-dihydroxypropoxy)propane-l,2-diol: diglycerol or diglycerin 3-[3-(2,3-dihydroxypropoxy)-2-hydroxypropoxy] propane-1,2-diol: triglycerol or triglycerin or Polyglycerin-3 Preferably, the polyols e) comprise at least 4 carbon atoms, better still comprise from 4 to 9 carbon atoms. More preferably, the polyols e) will be chosen from 1,3-butanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 3-[3-(2,3-dihydroxypropoxy)-2-hydroxypropoxy]propane-1,2-diol. In the cosmetic compositions of the invention, the polyols e) preferably represent from 0.01% to 30% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 25% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 20% by weight and most preferably from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0011] The compositions of the invention may also comprise additional fatty substances other than those mentioned above and in particular compounds a) and b). These additional fatty substances may be non-vegetable oils or waxes. Additional oils can be polar or non-polar, volatile or non-volatile (an oil is said to be non-volatile when its vapor pressure is less than 0.02 mm of mercury at atmospheric pressure and room temperature). Additional oils can be hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin. They can also be synthetic and silicone or fluorinated. Silicone oils can be linear or branched or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes possibly carrying aryl groups and in particular phenyl. The apolar hydrocarbon oils are preferably chosen from paraffin oil, isoparaffins (isododecane, isodecanes), linear alkanes (n-dodecane), isoeicosane, squalane, squalene, polybutylenes or polyisobutylenes, hydrogenated or not, polydecenes, hydrogenated or not. Polar oils are preferably hydrocarbon-based. They may be chosen from branched or unsaturated fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol and octyldodecanol. They may also be chosen from esters other than triglycerides, such as isopropyl myristate or isostearyl isosterate. Additional waxes can be hydrocarbon, silicone or fluorinated and be of natural, mineral, animal or synthetic origin. They can be polar or non-polar. Examples of non-polar waxes include paraffin waxes, ozokerite, and polyethylene waxes. The polar waxes are preferably hydrocarbon-based and even more preferably chosen from ester waxes comprising at least one ester function and alcohol waxes comprising at least one alcohol function. The additional ester waxes are preferably chosen from esters of fatty acid(s) and / or fatty alcohols in solid form at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) such as myristyl myristate or stearyl stearate. The additional alcohol waxes are preferably chosen from fatty alcohols in solid form at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) such as cetyl alcohol or cetylstearyl alcohol. In a variant of the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises at least one additional fatty substance of the solid fatty alcohol type. These additional fatty substances may be present at a concentration ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0012] The compositions according to the invention may comprise one or more additional surfactants chosen from anionic, non-ionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants other than the N acyl amino acid salts c). The additional anionic surfactants, used in particular in cleaning compositions, may be chosen in particular from fatty acid soaps, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether carboxylates, acyl isethionates, alkyl sulfonates, N acyl lactylates. The additional amphoteric surfactants may be chosen in particular from alkyl betaines, amidoalkyl betaines, camphordiacetates. The additional cationic surfactants may in particular be chosen from quaternary ammonium salts such as trialkyl ammonium halides and from quaternary diesters. The additional non-ionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from oxyalkylenated or glycerolated fatty alcohols or amides, esters of fatty acids and polyols and alkylpolyglycosides. In a preferred variant of the invention, the compositions do not contain anionic surfactants of the sulfate type. In another preferred version of the invention, the compositions comprise at least one additional non-ionic surfactant of polyol ester type. The additional surfactants may be present in the compositions of the invention at contents ranging from 0.001% to 40% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 30% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0013] The compositions of the invention may also further contain one or more non-carbon colored pigments. These additional non-carbon pigments may be mineral. The additional mineral pigments may be chosen in particular from iron oxides, ochres or earths, lapis lazuli, chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, metallic particles (gold, silver). The additional colored pigments may be present in the compositions of the invention at contents ranging from 0.001% to 40% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 30% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 25% by weight and most preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions of the invention may contain one or more ab- powders additional water-insoluble outgoing powders different from the absorbent powders d) of the invention. These additional absorbent powders may in particular be chosen from absorbent powders without silicon atoms derived from plants. They are in particular derived from organisms belonging to the Plant kingdom (or Plantae), one of the six kingdoms of the domain (or empire or super-kingdom) of eukaryotes. For example, whole plants or powdered parts of plants can be used. Examples include fruit, grain, and vegetable powders. Powders from plants or parts of plants that have undergone one or more stages of hydrolysis and separation can also be used, particularly powders based on polysaccharides, particularly those with glucose units such as starches. The additional water-insoluble absorbent powders may be present in the compositions of the invention at contents ranging from 0.001% to 40% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 30% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 25% by weight and most preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0014] The compositions of the invention may also contain one or more extracts of plant origin different from the compounds already mentioned. For the purposes of the present invention, an extract of plant origin means an extract containing one or more active ingredients derived from a plant or a plant secretion. Plant-based extracts can come from all types of plants belonging to the plant kingdom. They can therefore come from cryptogams but more preferably from phanerogams. In particular, they can come from trees, shrubs, green plants, flowering plants, cacti, and grasses. They can come from all parts of the plant and in particular from the roots, stems or trunks, leaves, flowers and fruits. These extracts can be soluble or insoluble in water at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa). The concentration of extracts of plant origin other than the compounds mentioned above, in the compositions of the invention, if they are present, preferably varies from 0.001% to 60% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 50%, better still from 0.2% to 40%, even better still from 1% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0015] The compositions according to the invention may further comprise one or more conventional additives well known in the art, different from the compounds defined previously. Examples of additives that can be used according to the invention include associative or non-associative, ionic or non-ionic polymers and in particular thickening polymers, UVA and / or UVB filters, softening agents, solvents, humectants, moisturizing agents, vitamins, provitamins, amino acids, perfumes, peptizing agents, preservatives, antioxidants, alkalizing or acidifying agents (in particular to regulate the pH of aqueous compositions or to salify ingredients), chelating agents, anti-wrinkle agents, agents for sensitive skin, anti-pollution agents, anti-blemish agents and slimming agents.

[0016] The cosmetic compositions of the invention are preferably topical compositions. By topical is meant a composition intended to be applied to the surface of external body substrates. The compositions according to the invention are intended particularly for the treatment of the skin, hair, lips, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows. The compositions of the invention may be used in particular for skin makeup, in particular in foundations, eye shadows or eyeshadows, for lip makeup, in particular in lipsticks or glosses, for nail makeup, in particular in varnishes, and for eyelash or eyebrow makeup, in particular in mascaras. They may also be used for skin cleansing, for skin care, in particular for moisturizing products and anti-wrinkle products, as well as for sunscreen products and self-tanning products. These compositions can also be used for cleaning hair, for coloring or bleaching, for curling or straightening or for conditioning (improving feel and shine). Finally, these compositions can be used for treating scalps and in particular for anti-irritation products, anti-dandruff products, anti-grease products or anti-hair loss products. Preferably the compositions will be used for the treatment of the skin, lips, nails, eyelashes or eyebrows. In a preferred version, the compositions of the invention are used for making up eyelashes or eyebrows. In another preferred version, the compositions of the invention are used for cleansing the skin.

[0017] The cosmetic compositions of the invention may be aqueous or anhydrous. For the purposes of the invention, the term "anhydrous" means a composition containing at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) less than 5% water by weight, even better less than 1% water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably not containing water, in particular added water. For the purposes of the invention, the term "aqueous" means a composition containing at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) from 5% to 99.5% of water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. If the compositions of the invention contain water, they comprise at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) preferably from 5% to 95%, better still from 5% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In a variant of the invention, the compositions are aqueous. They can then be in the form of solutions, gels, emulsions, pastes or compact solids. Emulsions can be oil-in-water (O / W), water-in-oil (W / O) or multiple emulsions. They can lead to creams or milks. In a preferred version of this variant, the compositions are mascaras for eyelashes or eyebrows. In another variant of the invention, the compositions are anhydrous. They can then be in the form of powders, thickened or unthickened oils, pastes or compact solids. In a preferred version of this variant, the compositions of the invention are anhydrous skin cleansing compositions, preferably in the form of anhydrous sticks. The compact solid form, aqueous or anhydrous, is an interesting form of the invention. By compact solid, is meant in the sense of the present invention a product at least solid at its periphery at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) not flowing spontaneously like a powder. We can speak of a self-supporting structure retaining its predetermined shape over time. The compact solid is most often in the form of a stick or a pencil. This stick or pencil can be entirely solid and of homogeneous structure or can optionally comprise a liquid core surrounded by a solid shell or be in the form of a solid core surrounded by a solid shell of a different nature from that of the core. The section of the stick or pencil can be of any shape, including rectangular, circular or oval. The outer surface of the stick or pencil may be beveled or domed. Preferably, the hardness at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) of the stick is greater than 25 Nm1 and less than 500 Nm1, better still greater than 30 Nm 1 and less than 400 Nm1, even better still between 35 Nm 1 and 200 Nm1. This hardness can be measured using a DFGHS 2 dynamometer from the company Indelco-Chatillon. In general, the compositions of the invention can be packaged in bottles with or without a pump, pots, tubes, aerosols, roll-ons.

[0018] The invention also covers a method for treating the skin, hair, lips, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows, and preferably the skin, lips, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows, consisting of applying to the substrate concerned a topical cosmetic composition as described above with or without subsequent rinsing.

[0019] [Examples]

[0020] The examples below illustrate the invention without, however, limiting its scope. Example 1 The composition described in Table 1 below is that of a mascara intended to be applied to the eyelashes. This mascara is made up of ingredients that give it good safety, a low ecological impact and ease of removal with an aqueous solution or with a water-soaked support.

[0021] [Tables 1] Ingrédient Nom INCI Fournisseur Quantité en g pour 100 g de composition Charcopowder Charcoal powder DAITO KASEI 3 Unipure Black LC 998 PHY CI77499 (and) Phytic Acid (and) Sodium Hydroxyde SENSIENT 3 Vitacel CS 5 oat Avena Sativa (Oat) Bran JRS 1 Vitacel CS 7 orange Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Powder JRS 1 Hydrolite 5 Green Pentylene Glycol SYMRISE 3 Solution NaOH (10 %) Sodium hydroxide MERCK 0,7 Thickagent LC Xanthan Gum (and) Hectorite (and) Cellulose SENSIENT 0,5 Organic Glycerin Glycerin LABORATOIR ES PROD'HYG 2 Makilene CG Butylène Glycol DAITO KASEI 2 Emulium Dolcea MB Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stéarate (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (and) Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (and) Water (and) Polyglycerin-3 GATTEFOSSE 5 Definicire MB Jojoba Esters (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (and) Polyglycerin-3 GATTEFOSSE 3 Kahlwax 6607L MB Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol KAHLWAX 4 Compritol 888 Glyceryl Behenate GATTEFOSSE 5 Syncrowax HRC Tribehenin CRODA 5 Kahlresin 6720 Shorea Robusta Resin (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (and) Tocopherol KAHLWAX 4 Khalwax 6689 Orange Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Cera, Rhus Vemiciflua Peel Cera KAHLWAX 0,5 NAT OAT BUTTER Avena Sativa Kernel Oil (and) Hy-drogenated Avena Sativa Kernel Oil NATUROCHIM 0,5 Actif Koffee’Up Coffea Arabica (Coffee) Seed Oil GIVAUDAN 0,3 Covi-Ox T-90 EU C Tocopherol BASF 0,1 Vitacel CS 20F Cellulose JRS 1 Cellulobeads D10 Cellulose DAITO 1 Leucidal SF Complété Lactobacillus Ferment & Lactobacillus & Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract ACTIVE MICRO TECH NOLOGIES 2 Phenetyl alcohol Phenethyl alcohol EVONIK 0,7 Vellaplex MB Capryloyl Glycerin / Sebacic Acid Copolymer INOLEX 2 Eau déminéralisée Water Qsp 100

[0022] Exemple 2 The composition described in Table 2 below is also that of a mascara intended to be applied to the eyelashes. This mascara is made up of ingredients that give it good safety, a low ecological impact and ease of removal with an aqueous solution or with a support soaked in water.

[0023] [Tables2] Ingredient Name INCI Supplier Quantity in g per 100 g of composition Sumicos Black LHM CI77499 SUDARSHAN 6 Imer'care Opaque Kaolin IMERYS 1 Vitacel CS 5 oat Avena Sativa (Oat) Bran JRS 1 Vitacel CS 7 orange Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Powder JRS 1 Hydrolite 5 Green Pentylene Glycol SYMRISE 3 NaOH Solution (10 %) Sodium hydroxide MERCK 0.5 Prohygel XT Xanthane gum LAB PROD'HYG 0.5 Organic Glycerin Glycerin LAB PROD'HYG 2 Makilene CG Butylene Glycol DAITO KASEI 2 Emulium Dolcea MB Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (and) Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (and) Water (and) Poly-glycerin-3 GATTEFOSSE 5 Define MB Jojoba Esters (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (and) Poly Glycerin-3 GATTEFOSSE Kahlwax 6607L MB Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Ascorbyl Palmitate, To-copherol KAHLWAX 4 Compritol 888 Glyceryl Behenate GATTEFOSSE 5 Syncrowax HRC Tribehenin CRODA 5 Kahlresin 6720 Shorea Robusta Resin (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (and) Tocopherol KAHLWAX 4 Covi-Ox T-90 EU C Tocopherol BASF 0.1 Leucidal SF Supplemented Lactobacillus Ferment & Lactobacillus & Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract ACTIVE MICRO TECH NOLOGIES 2 Phenetyl alcohol Phenethyl alcohol EVONIK 0.7 Vellaplex MB Capryloyl Glycerin / Sebacic Acid Copolymer INOLEX 2 Demineralized water Water Qsp 100

[0024] Example 3 The composition described in Table 3 below is that of a cleanser intended for application to the face. This facial cleanser is made up of ingredients that give it good safety, a low ecological impact and ease of removal with an aqueous solution or with a water-soaked support.

[0025] [Tables3] Ingrédient Nom INCI Fournisseur Quantité en g pour 100 g de composition Carnauba wax Copernicia cerifera wax KAHLWAX 7,5 Candelilla wax Euphorbia cerifera cera KAHLWAX 7,5 Phytowax 18L57 Hydrogenated olive oil stearyl esters SOPHIM 7,5 Beurre de mangue Mangifera indica seed butter SOPHIM 2 Dermol 1818 Isostearate isostearyl ALZO INT. INC. 25 Emulium Dolcea MB Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stéarate (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (and) Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (and) Water (and) Polyglycerin-3 GATTEFOSSE 20 Hydrolite 5 Green Pentylene Glycol SYMRISE 10 Covi-Ox T-90 EU C Tocopherol BASF 0,1 Pureact 138 Decyl glucoside (and) sodium lauroyl lactylate INNOSPEC PERFORMANC E CHEMICALS 10 ImerCare® 30P Perlite IMERYS 3 Vivapur CS 9M Cellulose JRS 7 Parfum Beauty addict Fragrance AROMAZONE 0,3 Covapate unired LC3728 Ricinus communis (castor) seed oil (and) SENSIENT 0,1 CI45410

Claims

Claims

1. Use for the treatment of the skin, lips, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows and even more preferably for making up the eyelashes or eyebrows or for cleaning the skin of a cosmetic composition comprising: a) at least one vegetable wax whose ester component is based on monoesters and / or diesters, optionally hydrogenated and which may or may not be transesterified b) at least one compound based on vegetable triglycerides, optionally hydrogenated c) at least one compound of the N acyl amino acid salt type d) at least one water-insoluble powder chosen from carbon-based colored pigments or natural absorbent powders containing silicon e) at least one polyol of formula 0H-[CH2-Rl-(0)p]nH in which: RI denotes a monohydroxyalkyl radical chosen from the radicals CH(0H)-CH2 , CH(OH)-CH2-CH2 , CH(OH)-CH2-CH2-CH2 , CH2-CH(OH)-CH2, CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-CH2 n denotes 1 or 2 or 3 p denotes 0 or 1.

2. Use according to claim 1 in which the vegetable wax(es) (a) are chosen from hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, transesterified or non-transesterified jojoba, candelilla, sunflower or acacia waxes.

3. Use according to claims 1 or 2 in which the vegetable waxes (a) are present in a proportion ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Use according to any one of the preceding claims in which the compounds based on vegetable triglycerides (b) are chosen from vegetable oils and non-transesterified vegetable butters which are optionally hydrogenated, preferably chosen from sweet almond oil, argan oil, avocado oil, peanut oil, camellia oil, safflower oil, calophyllum oil, rapeseed oil, copra or coconut oil, coriander oil, pumpkin oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn germ oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, vemonia oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, passionflower oil, grape seed oil, rosehip oil, rye oil, sesame oil, rice bran oil, soybean oil, hemp oil, oat oil, baobab oil, pomegranate oil, plum oil, borage oil, lupin oil, pistachio oil, shea butter, cocoa butter, illipe butter, mango butter, babassu butter, jojoba butter, argan butter, oat butter, these compounds being non-transesterified and which may or may not be hydrogenated.

5. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 4 in which the compounds (b) are present in a proportion ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Use according to any one of the preceding claims in which the compounds (c) are chosen from N acyl glycinates, N acyl alaninates, N acyl aspartates, N acyl glutamates and N acyl sarcosinates, more preferably from N acyl aspartates, N acyl glutamates and N acyl sarcosinates, even better from N acyl glutamates.

7. Use according to any one of the preceding claims in which the compounds (c) represent from 0.01% to 30% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Use according to any one of the preceding claims in which the water-insoluble powders (d) are chosen from carbon-based colored pigments of plant origin.

9. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 7 wherein the water-insoluble powders (d) are chosen from silicas and silica-rich powders.

10. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 7 in which the water-insoluble powders (d) are chosen from silicates, better still from phyllosilicates or aluminosilicates and the compounds containing them.

11. Use according to any one of the preceding claims in which the water-insoluble powders (d) represent from 0.001% to 40% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 30% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 25% by weight and most preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Use according to any one of the preceding claims in in which the polyols (e) are chosen from 1,2-propanediol, 1,2,3-propanetriol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,3-pentanediol, 1,4-pentanediol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,3,5-pentanetriol, 3-(2,3-dihydroxypropoxy)propane-1,2-diol, 3-[3-(2,3-dihydroxypropoxy-2-hydroxypropoxy]propane-1,2-diol, better still from 1,3-butanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 3-[3-(2,3-dihydroxypropoxy-2-hydroxypropoxy]propane-1,2-diol.

13. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 11 in which the polyols (e) are chosen from those comprising from 4 to 9 carbon atoms.

14. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 13 in which the polyols (e) represent from 0.01% to 30% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 25% by weight, even better still from 0.5% to 20% by weight and most preferably from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. A method of treating the skin, lips, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows comprising applying to the substrate to be treated a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 with or without subsequent rinsing.