USE OF POLYPHENOL AND WATER-SOLUBLE POLYMER FOR THE TREATMENT OF KERATIN FIBERS
A two-step hair treatment with polyphenol and water-soluble polymer enhances hair strength and reduces color alteration by forming a gel, addressing the limitations of existing treatments.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2022-01-25
- Publication Date
- 2026-04-03
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair treatments do not effectively improve hair strength or reduce color alteration in dyed hair, particularly during washing and conditioning.
A two-step process involving treatment with a polyphenol composition followed by a water-soluble polymer composition, where the polyphenol can be tannic acid and the polymer is preferably polyvinylpyrrolidone, forming a gel on the hair to enhance strength and reduce color alteration.
The process improves hair strength, suppleness, and elasticity while reducing color alteration in dyed hair, providing resistance to hair care treatments.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: USE OF POLYPHENOL AND WATER-SOLUBLE POLYMER FOR THE TREATMENT OF KERATIN FIBERS Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to the use of a combination of polyphenol and a water-soluble polymer for the treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair.
[0002] CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION
[0003] In the field of hair treatments, in some cases it is preferable to make the hair resistant or hard in order to improve, for example, the suppleness or elasticity of the hair. Furthermore, it is preferable for colored hair to be resistant to hair treatments such as washing and conditioning, in order to reduce color alteration due to these treatments.
[0004] JP-B-6594114 discloses a hair treatment with a pretreatment agent including tannic acid and a posttreatment agent including hydrolyzed keratin. According to JP-B-6594114, pretreating hair with tannic acid may reduce the penetration of hydrolyzed keratin into the hair. However, JP-B-6594114 does not disclose or imply that the two-step hair treatment disclosed therein may improve hair strength or reduce color fading in dyed hair.
[0005] There is a need for a hair treatment that can improve hair resistance. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION
[0006] An objective of the present invention is to provide a means of improving the strength of keratin fibers such as hair and / or reducing the alteration of the color of dyed keratin fibers such as dyed hair.
[0007] The main objective can be achieved by a process for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the steps of:
[0008] (1) treatment of keratin fibers by a first composition comprising at minus one polyphenol; and
[0009] (2) treatment of keratin fibers by a second composition comprising at minus a water-soluble polymer,
[0010] in which
[0011] the keratin fibers are treated by step (1) above followed by step (2) above.
[0012] The polyphenol can be selected from among the tannins.
[0013] It is preferable that the polyphenol be tannic acid.
[0014] The quantity of the polyphenol(s) in the first composition may be in a range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
[0015] The water-soluble polymer can be selected from water-soluble film-forming polymers, preferably from synthetic water-soluble film-forming polymers, and more preferably from the group consisting of polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylic acid, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0016] It is even more preferable that the water-soluble polymer be polyvinylpyrrolidone.
[0017] It is preferable that the polyphenol and the water-soluble polymer form a gel.
[0018] The amount of the water-soluble polymer(s) in the second composition may be in a range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0019] At least one of the first and second compositions may have a pH of 3.0 to 7.0, preferably 3.5 to 6.5, and more preferably 4.0 to 6.0.
[0020] The first composition can be removed from the keratin fibers after treatment of the keratin fibers with the first composition.
[0021] The first composition can be maintained on the keratin fibers after treatment of the keratin fibers with the first composition.
[0022] The process according to the present invention is capable of improving the resistance or hardness of keratin fibers.
[0023] The process according to the present invention is capable of reducing the alteration of the color of dyed keratin fibers.
[0024] The present invention also relates to a product for the treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising
[0025] (1) a first composition; and
[0026] (2) a second composition,
[0027] in which
[0028] the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol, and
[0029] the second composition comprises at least one water-soluble polymer.
[0030] The present invention also relates to a kit for the treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising
[0031] (1) a first compartment comprising a first composition; and
[0032] (2) a second compartment comprising a second composition,
[0033] in which
[0034] the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol, and
[0035] the second composition comprises at least one water-soluble polymer.
[0036] The present invention also relates to the use of a combination of
[0037] (1) treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair, by a first composition; and
[0038] (2) treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair, by a second composition,
[0039] in which
[0040] the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol, and
[0041] the second composition comprises at least one water-soluble polymer
[0042] in order to improve the strength or hardness of keratin fibers and / or to reduce the alteration of the color of keratin fibers. Best embodiment of the invention
[0043] After extensive research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to provide a means of improving the strength of keratin fibers such as hair and / or reducing the alteration of the color of dyed keratin fibers such as dyed hair.
[0044] Thus, the present invention relates mainly to a process for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising:
[0045] (1) the treatment of keratin fibers by a first composition comprising at minus one polyphenol; and
[0046] (2) the treatment of keratin fibers by a second composition comprising at minus a water-soluble polymer,
[0047] in which
[0048] the keratin fibers are treated by step (1) above followed by step (2) above.
[0049] The present invention can improve the strength of keratin fibers such as hair and / or reduce the alteration of the color of dyed keratin fibers such as dyed hair.
[0050] It is possible, by means of the present invention, to endow keratin fibers such as hair with improved strength or hardness. Thus, the present invention can endow keratin fibers with improved cosmetic properties such as greater suppleness and elasticity.
[0051] It is also possible, by means of the present invention, to endow dyed keratin fibers such as dyed hair with resistance to treatments hair care products such as washing and conditioning. Thus, the present invention can provide dyed keratin fibers with less color alteration caused by hair treatments.
[0052] The present invention will be described in detail below.
[0053] [Procedure]
[0054] One aspect of the present invention relates to a method for treating keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising:
[0055] (1) the treatment of keratin fibers by a first composition comprising at minus one polyphenol; and
[0056] (2) the treatment of keratin fibers by a second composition comprising at minus a water-soluble polymer,
[0057] in which
[0058] the keratin fibers are treated by step (1) above followed by step (2) above.
[0059] {First composition]
[0060] (Polyphenol)
[0061] The first composition comprises at least one polyphenol. Only one type of polyphenol may be used, or two or more different types of polyphenols may be used in combination.
[0062] The term "polyphenol" is understood to refer to a compound containing a plurality of phenolic hydroxyl groups. A phenolic hydroxyl group is defined as a hydroxyl group bonded to an aromatic ring such as a benzene ring or a naphthalene ring. The phenolic hydroxyl group may optionally be etherified or esterified.
[0063] The polyphenol can be chosen from those which have antioxidant activity.
[0064] The polyphenol can be chosen, for example, from among the flavonoids. The flavonoids may correspond to the general formula (I):
[0065] in which
[0066] A", B", C" and D", independently of each other, represent H or -OH;
[0067] E" represents H, -OH or -OX', where X' represents: -Œ
[0068] F", G", and J" represent, independently of each other, H or -OH; and
[0069] Xi represents -CH2-, -CO- or -CHOH-,
[0070] or to the general formula (II):
[0071] in which
[0072] A', C and D', independently of each other, represent H, -OH or -OCH3;
[0073] E' represents H, -OH or -OR', where R' represents the residue of a sugar of formula R'OH;
[0074] B', F', G' and J', independently of each other, represent H, OH, -OCH3 or - OCH2-CH2-OH. Rutinose can be mentioned among the R'OH sugars.
[0075] The compounds of formulas (I) and (II) are known. They can be obtained in particular according to the processes described in "The Flavonoids", Harborne JB, Mabry TJ, Helga Mabry, 1975, pages 1 to 45.
[0076] Among the flavonoids that can be used for the present invention, mention may be made of taxifolin, catechin, epicatechin, eriodictyol, naringenin, rutin, troxerutin, chrysin, tangeretin, luteolin, epigallocatechin and epigallocatechin gallate, quercetin, fisetin, kaempferol, galangin, gallocatechin and epicatechin gallate.
[0077] Certain polyphenols that can be used are present in plants from which they can be extracted in a known manner. Extracts of tea leaves (Camellia sinensis or Camellia japonica) can be used. In particular, green tea extracts sold under the name SUNPHENON® by the Nikko company, which contain flavonoids, can be mentioned.
[0078] Among the polyphenols that can be used, mention can also be made of polyphenols such as carnosic acid and camosol which can be extracted, for example, from rosemary, either by extraction followed by distillation (Chang et al., JOSC, Vol. 61, No. 6, June 1984) or by extraction with a polar solvent such as ethanol preceded by an extraction using a non-polar solvent such as hexane to remove odorous substances, as described in EP-A-307 626.
[0079] The polyphenol can also be selected from (2,5-dihydroxyphenyl)alkylenecarboxylic acids of formula (III) and their derivatives (in particular esters and amides): OH (III) OH
[0080] in which
[0081] Ri" represents -O-Alk, OH or -N(r')(r"), in which Alk designates a linear or branched Ci-C2O alkyl, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups or alkoxy groups, or a C2-C2O alkenyl,
[0082] r' and r" independently represent H, a CrC2O alkyl, a C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl or a C3-C6 polyhydroxyalkyl, or alternatively r' and r" form, together with a nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocycle,
[0083] r is a number, including zero, such that the chain -(CH2)r-CORi contains at most 21 carbon atoms,
[0084] R2" and R3" independently represent H or an alkyl in Ci-C4, it being further It is possible for R2" to represent an alkoxy in Ci-C4.
[0085] The compounds of formula (III) are known or can be prepared according to known processes, for example analogous to those described in patents FR-2 400 358 and FR-2 400 359.
[0086] The polyphenol can also be chosen from caffeic acid esters or amides.
[0087] Among the caffeic acid esters, we may in particular mention the compounds of formula (IV):
[0088] in which
[0089] Z represents a Ci-C8 alkyl, for example a methyl, or the residue of a phytol.
[0090] Among the caffeic acid amides, the following compounds of formula (V) may be mentioned in particular:
[0091] in which
[0092] Z' represents an alkyl in CrC8, in particular in C6-C8.
[0093] The compounds of formula (IV) or (V) are known or can be prepared according to known processes.
[0094] The polyphenol can also be selected from among the tannins.
[0095] Tannins can be chosen from hydrolyzable tannins, and condensed tannins which are not hydrolyzable, and mixtures of these.
[0096] Hydrolyzable tannins can be selected from gallotanin and ellagic tannin.
[0097] It is preferable to use, as a polyphenol, a tannic acid which belongs to the gallotanin category.
[0098] Tannic acid corresponds to the following chemical formula:
[0099] Polyphenol can be obtained from plants. Thus, the present invention can be environmentally friendly.
[0100] The quantity of the polyphenol(s) in the first composition may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0101] The quantity of the polyphenol(s) in the first composition may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, in a more preferred of 3% by weight or less, and even more preferred of 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0102] The quantity of the polyphenol(s) in the first composition may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0103] (Water)
[0104] The first composition may include water.
[0105] The amount of water in the first composition may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and even more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0106] The amount of water in the first composition may be 99.5% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, and more preferably 80% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0107] The amount of water in the first composition can be in a range of 50% to 99.5% by weight, preferably 60% to 90% by weight, and more preferably 70% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0108] (Additional ingredients)
[0109] The first composition may also include any optional ingredients conventionally used in cosmetics for keratin fibers such as hair, which will be explained later.
[0110] It is preferable that the first composition include at least one surfactant, which will be explained later. [YES] (PH)
[0112] The pH of the first composition can be adjusted to the desired value by using one or more alkaline agent(s) and / or one or more acidic agent(s) commonly used in the field of cosmetics.
[0113] The first composition may have a pH of 3.0 to 7.0, preferably of 3.5 to 6.5, and more preferably of 4.0 to 6.0.
[0114] The alkaline agent(s) may be used in an amount in the range of 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 5% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0115] The acid agent(s) may be used in an amount in the range of 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 5% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0116] {Second composition]
[0117] (Water-soluble polymer)
[0118] The second composition comprises at least one water-soluble polymer. Only one type of water-soluble polymer may be used, or two or more different types of water-soluble polymers may be used in combination.
[0119] The water-soluble polymer can be selected from natural water-soluble polymers, synthetic water-soluble polymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0120] It is preferable that the water-soluble polymer be able to form a film. In other words, it is preferable that the water-soluble polymer be a water-soluble film-forming polymer.
[0121] Examples of water-soluble polymers that may be mentioned include:
[0122] proteins, for example plant-based proteins such as wheat proteins and soy proteins; animal-based proteins such as keratin, for example keratin hydrolysates and sulfonic keratins;
[0123] cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, and cationized celluloses such as celluloses with quaternary ammonium groups;
[0124] acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylic acids, polyacrylates, polymethacrylates and polyacrylamides;
[0125] vinyl polymers, for example polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride copolymers, vinyl acetate and crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as a vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate copolymer, and a vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam copolymer;
[0126] polyvinyl alcohol;
[0127] polyamines;
[0128] polyethyleneimines;
[0129] polyethylene glycols;
[0130] polymers of natural origin, which are optionally modified, such as the arabic gums, guar gum, xanthan gum derivatives, karaya gum;
[0131] alginates and carrageenans;
[0132] glycosaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof;
[0133] shellac resin, sandarac gum, Dammar resins, elemi gums and copal resins;
[0134] deoxyribonucleic acid;
[0135] mucopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulfate; and
[0136] mixtures of these.
[0137] It is preferable that the water-soluble polymer be selected from water-soluble film-forming polymers, preferably from synthetic water-soluble film-forming polymers, and more preferably from the group consisting of polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylic acid, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, and mixtures thereof.
[0138] It is preferable that the water-soluble polymer be polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP).
[0139] The amount of the water-soluble polymer(s) in the second composition may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0140] The amount of the water-soluble polymer(s) in the second composition may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, more preferably 3% by weight or less, and even more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0141] The amount of water-soluble polymer(s) in the second composition can be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0142] (Water)
[0143] The second compositions may include water.
[0144] The amount of water in the second composition may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and even more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0145] The amount of water in the second composition may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 95% by weight or less, and more preferably 90% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0146] The amount of water in the second composition can be in a range of 50% to 99% by weight, preferably 60% to 95% by weight, and more preferably 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0147] (Additional ingredients)
[0148] The second composition may also include any optional ingredients conventionally used in cosmetics for keratin fibers such as hair, which will be explained later.
[0149] It is preferable that the second composition include at least one silicone and / or at least one oil, which will be explained later.
[0150] (pH)
[0151] The pH of the second composition can be adjusted to the desired value by using an alkaline agent(s) and / or an acidic agent(s) commonly used in the field of cosmetics.
[0152] The second composition may have a pH of 3.0 to 7.0, preferably 3.5 to 6.5, and more preferably 4.0 to 6.0.
[0153] The alkaline agent(s) may be used in an amount in the range of 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 5% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0154] The acid agent(s) may be used in an amount in the range of 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 5% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0155] {Gel-forming ability}
[0156] It is preferable that the polyphenol in the first composition and the water-soluble polymer in the second composition form a gel on the keratin fibers.
[0157] It is more preferable that the polyphenol selected from the tannins in the first composition and the water-soluble polymer selected from the synthetic water-soluble film-forming polymers in the second composition form a gel on the keratin fibers.
[0158] It is even more preferable that tannic acid as a polyphenol in the first composition and PVP as a water-soluble polymer in the second composition form a gel on the keratin fibers.
[0159] {Optional ingredients]
[0160] The first composition and / or the second composition may also include at least one optional ingredient that is conventionally used in cosmetics for keratin fibers such as hair.
[0161] Examples of the optional ingredient will be explained below.
[0162] (Surfactant)
[0163] The first composition and / or the second composition may comprise at least one surfactant.
[0164] Any surfactant may be used for the present invention. The surfactant used for the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
[0165] If two or more surfactants are used, they may be identical or different.
[0166] Anionic surfactants:
[0167] According to the present invention, the type of anionic surfactant is not limited. Preferably, the anionic surfactant should be selected from the group consisting of alkyl sulfates (C6-C30), alkyl ether sulfates (C6-C30), alkylamido ether sulfates (C6-C30), alkylaryl polyether sulfates and monoglyceride sulfates; alkylsulfonates (C6-C30), alkylamide sulfonates (C6-C30), alkylaryl sulfonates (C6-C30), α-olefin sulfonates and paraffin sulfonates; alkyl phosphates (C6-C30); alkyl sulfosuccinates (C6-C30), alkyl ether sulfosuccinates (C6-C30) and alkylamide sulfosuccinates (C6-C30); alkyl sulfoacetates (C6-C30); acyl sarcosinates (C6-C24); acyl glutamates (C6-C24); carboxylic alkyl polyglycoside ethers (C6-C30); alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates (C6-C30);alkyl sulfosuccinamates (C6-C30); acyl isethionates (C6-C24); N-acyl taurates (C6-C24); C6-C30 fatty acid salts; coconut oil acid salts or hydrogenated coconut oil acid salts; acyl lactylates (C8-C20); alkyl (C6-C30)-D-galactoside uronic acid salts; polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether (C6-C30) carboxylic acid salts; polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether (C6-C30) carboxylic acid salts; and polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether (C6-C30) carboxylic acid salts. ;
[0168] It is more preferable that the anionic surfactant be selected from alkyl sulfate salts (in C6-C30) or polyoxyalkylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid salts (in C6-C30).
[0169] In at least one embodiment, the anionic surfactants are in the form of salts such as alkali metal salts, for example sodium; alkaline earth metal salts, for example magnesium; ammonium salts; amino salts; and amino alcohol salts. Depending on the conditions, they may also be in acidic form.
[0170] Amphoteric surfactants:
[0171] According to the present invention, the type of amphoteric surfactant is not limited. Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants may be, for example (non-limiting list), amine derivatives such as secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, and optionally quaternized amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (e.g., carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate).
[0172] The amphoteric surfactant may preferably be selected from the group consisting of betaines and carboxylated amidoamine derivatives.
[0173] The amphoteric surfactant of the betaine type is preferably selected from the group consisting of alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, phosphobetaines, and alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, in particular alkylbetaines (C8-C24), alkylamido (C8-C24)-alkylbetaines (CrC8), sulfobetaines, and alkylamido (C8-C24)-alkylsulfobetaines (CiC8). In one embodiment, the amphoteric surfactants of the betaine type are chosen from alkylbetaines (C8-C24), alkylamido (C8-C24)-alkylsulfobetaines (CiC8), sulfobetaines, and phosphobetaines.
[0174] Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include compounds classified in the CTFA Dictionary, 9th edition, 2002, under the names cocobetaine, laurylbetaine, cetylbetaine, coco / oleamidopropylbetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, palmitamidopropylbetaine, stearamidopropylbetaine, cocamidoethylbetaine, cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine, oleamidopropylhydroxysultaine, cocohydroxysultaine, laurylhydroxysultaine and cocosultaine, alone or in mixtures.
[0175] The amphoteric surfactant of the betaine type is preferably an alkylbetaine and an alkylamidoalkylbetaine, in particular cocobetaine and cocamidopropylbetaine.
[0176] Among the carboxylated amidoamine derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name Miranol, as described in US patent Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982, under the names Amphocarboxyglycinates and Amphocarboxypropionates, having the respective structures:
[0177] R1-CONHCH2CH2-N+(R2)(R3)(CH2COO)
[0178] in which:
[0179] Ri designates an alkyl radical of an acid Ri-COOH present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical,
[0180] R2 designates a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and
[0181] R3 designates a carboxymethyl group; and
[0182] R1'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(C)
[0183] in which:
[0184] B represents CH2CH2OX',
[0185] C represents -(CH2)Z-Y', with z = 1 or 2,
[0186] X' denotes a group -CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom,
[0187] Y' denotes -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2-CHOH-SO3Z' or a radical -CH2-CHOH-SO3H,
[0188] Z' represents an ion of an alkali or alkaline earth metal such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine, and
[0189] R / denotes an alkyl radical of an acid Ri'-COOH present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, such as an alkyl radical in C7, C9, Cn or Cu, an alkyl radical in Cp and its iso form, or an unsaturated radical in Ci7.
[0190] It is preferable that the amphoteric surfactant be selected from alkyl amphomonoacetates (in C8-C24), alkyl amphodiacetates (in C8-C24), alkyl amphomonopropionates (in C8-C24) and alkyl amphodipropionates (in C8-C24).
[0191] These compounds are listed in the CTFA Dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphopropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.
[0192] As an example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate sold under the brand name Miranol® C2M Concentrate by the company Rhodia Chimie.
[0193] Cationic surfactants:
[0194] According to the present invention, the type of cationic surfactant is not limited. The cationic surfactant can be selected from the group consisting of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, optionally polyoxyalkylated, quaternary ammonium salts and mixtures thereof.
[0195] Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be mentioned include, but are not limited to:
[0196] those of the general formula (I) below:
[0197] in which
[0198] Ri, R2, R3, and R4, which may be identical or different, are selected from linear and branched aliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally including heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens. The aliphatic radicals may be selected, for example, from alkyl, alkoxy, C2-C6 polyoxyalkylene, alkylamide, C2-C6 alkylamido (C12-C22), alkyl acetate (C2-C22), and hydroxyalkyl radicals; and aromatic radicals such as an aryl and an alkylaryl; and X is selected from halides,
[0199] phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates (C2-C6), and alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates; quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for example those of formula (II) below:
[0200]
[0201]
[0202]
[0203]
[0204]
[0205]
[0206] (II) in which: R5 is chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives from tallow or coconut; R6 is chosen from hydrogen, Ci-C4 alkyl radicals, and alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms; R7 is chosen from Ci-C4 alkyl radicals; R8 is chosen from among hydrogen and CrC4 alkyl radicals; and X is selected from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, and alkylaryl sulfonates. In one embodiment, R5 and R6 are, for example, a mixture of radicals selected from alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as tallow fatty acid derivatives, R7 is a methyl group, and R8 is a hydrogen group. Examples of such products include, but are not limited to, Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) and Quatemium-83 (CTFA 1997), which are sold under the names "Rewoquat®" W75, W90, W75PG, and W75HPG by the Witco Company; the diquatemar ammonium salts of formula (III):
[0207]
[0208]
[0209] in which: R9 is chosen from aliphatic radicals comprising 16 to 30 carbon atoms; Rio is chosen from hydrogen or alkyl radicals comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or the group (R16 a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a)N+(CH2)3;
[0210] Ru, R12, Rb, Ru, Riôa, Rpa and Ri8a, which may be identical or different, are selected from hydrogen and alkyl radicals comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and
[0211] X is selected from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, ethyl sulfates and methyl sulfates.
[0212] An example of such a diquaterary ammonium salt is FINETEX's FINQUAT CT-P (Quatemium-89) or FINETEX's FINQUAT CT (Quaternium-75); and
[0213] quaternary ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function, such as those of formula (IV) below: Q (CSH2sO)z R25 II R24---C---(OC,H,2(OH)„),---N —(CtH12(OH)„-O)x—R23 x R 22 (IV)
[0214] in which:
[0215] R22 is selected from among the Ci-C6 alkyl radicals, and the hydroxyalkyl radicals and dihydroxyalkyls in Ci-C6;
[0216] R23 is chosen from:
[0217] the radical below: î '
[0218] linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C1.C22 hydrocarbon-based R27 radicals, and a hydrogen atom,
[0219] R25 is selected from:
[0220] the radical below: O, —
[0221] linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated hydrocarbon-based R29 radicals, and a hydrogen,
[0222] R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from C7-C2i hydrocarbon-based radicals, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated;
[0223] r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers in a range of 2 to 6;
[0224] each of rl and tl, which may be identical or different, is worth 0 or 1, and r2 + rl = 2r and tl + 2t = 2t;
[0225] y is chosen from integers in a range from 1 to 10;
[0226] x and z, which may be identical or different, are chosen from numbers integers falling within a range of 0 to 10;
[0227] X is selected from simple and complex, organic and inorganic anions, provided that the sum x + y + z is in the range of 1 to 15, that when x is 0, R23 designates R27, and that when z is 0, R25 designates R29. R22 may be selected from linear and branched alkyl radicals. In one embodiment, R22 is selected from linear alkyl radicals. In another embodiment, R22 is selected from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl, and dihydroxypropyl radicals, for example, methyl and ethyl radicals. In one embodiment, the sum x + y + z is in the range of 1 to 10. When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R27, it may be long and comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and comprise from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R25 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R29, it can include, for example, 1 to 3 carbon atoms.By way of non-limiting example, in one embodiment, R24, R26, and R28, which may be identical or different, are selected from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated Cn-C2i hydrocarbon radicals, for example, from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated Cn-C2i alkyl and alkenyl radicals. In another embodiment, x and z, which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1. In one embodiment, y is equal to 1. In another embodiment, r, s, and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, for example, equal to 2. The anion X may be selected from, for example, halides, such as a chloride, a bromide, and an iodide; and Ci-C4 alkyl sulfates, such as methyl sulfate.However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as an acetate or lactate, and any other ammonium-compatible anion comprising an ester function, are other non-limiting examples of anions that may be used for the present invention. In one embodiment, the anion X is selected from a chloride and methyl sulfate.
[0228] In another embodiment, ammonium salts of formula (IV) may be used, wherein:
[0229] R22 is selected from methyl and ethyl radicals,
[0230] x and y are equal to 1;
[0231] z is equal to 0 or 1;
[0232] r, s and t are equal to 2;
[0233] R23 is chosen from:
[0234] the radical below: O II R — c —
[0235] methyl, ethyl, and C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and hydrogen;
[0236] R25 is chosen from:
[0237] the radical below: O ' R2—G—
[0238] and a hydrogen;
[0239] R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based radicals, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, for example among C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated.
[0240] In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.
[0241] Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (IV) that may be mentioned include salts, for example methyl chloride and methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyl dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl dimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the acyl radicals may comprise from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and may be derived, for example, from a vegetable oil, such as palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound comprises several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.
[0242] These products can be obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine, or optionally oxyalkylated alkyldiisopropanolamine with fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification can be followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent selected from among alkyl halides, for example, methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulfates, for example, dimethyl and diethyl sulfates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.
[0243] Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the Cognis company, Stepanquat® by the Stepan company, Noxamium® by the Ceca company, and “Rewoquat® WE 18” by the Rewo-Goldschmidt company.
[0244] Other non-limiting examples of ammonium salts that can be used for the present invention include ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function described in US patents Nos. 4,874,554 and 4,137,180.
[0245] Among the quaternary ammonium salts mentioned above that can be used for the present invention, one may cite, but not be limited to, those corresponding to formula (I), for example tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for example dialkyldimethylammonium and alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical comprises about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides; palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristylacetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name "Ceraphyl® 70" by the Van Dyk company.
[0246] According to one embodiment, the cationic surfactant that can be used for the present invention is selected from quaternary ammonium salts, for example from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, Quatemium-83, Quaternium-87, Quatemium-22, behenyllamidopropyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and stearamidopropyldimethylamine.
[0247] Non-ionic surfactants:
[0248] Nonionic surfactants are well-known compounds in themselves (see, for example, in this regard, "Handbook of Surfactants" by M.R. Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178). Thus, they may, for example, be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols, and fatty acid esters, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated, or glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 30 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to be in the range of 2 to 50, and for the number of glycerol groups to be in the range of 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned.Other examples include, but are not limited to, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; polyglycerol fatty amides comprising, for example, 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; mono- or diesters of polyethoxylated fatty acids of glycerol; glycerol alkylpolyglycosides (C6-). C24); N-alkylglucamine derivatives (in C6-C24); amine oxides such as alkylamine oxides (in C10-C14) or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides (in C10-C14); and mixtures thereof.
[0249] The nonionic surfactants may preferably be selected from monooxyalkylated, polyoxyalkylated, monoglycerol, or polyglycerol nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, and are preferably oxyethylene units.
[0250] Examples of monooxyalkylated or polyoxyalkylated nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include:
[0251] monooxyalkylated or polyoxyalkylated alkylphenols (C8-C24),
[0252] monooxyalkylated or polyoxyalkylated alcohols in C8-C30, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched,
[0253] monooxyalkylated or polyoxyalkylated amides in C8-C30, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched,
[0254] C8-C30 acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and polyalkylene glycols,
[0255] monooxyalkylated or polyoxyalkylated esters of C8-C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol,
[0256] vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated, monooxyalkylated or polyoxyalkylated,
[0257] ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates, among others, alone or in mixtures.
[0258] Surfactants preferably contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide between 1 and 100 and preferably between 2 and 50. Advantageously, nonionic surfactants do not comprise oxypropylene units.
[0259] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the non-ionic polyoxyalkylenated surfactants are selected from a polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol (fatty alcohol polyethylene glycol ether), a polyoxyethylenated fatty ester (fatty acid polyethylene glycol ester), and a mixture of polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol and polyoxyethylenated fatty ester.
[0260] Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (or C8-C30 alcohols) that may be mentioned include ethylene oxide adducts with lauryl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 50 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (Laureth-2 to Laureth-20, according to CTFA names); ethylene oxide adducts with behenyl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 50 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (Beheneth-2 to Beheneth-20, according to CTFA names); ethylene oxide adducts with cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), in particular those containing 2 to 30 oxyethylene units (Ceteareth-2 to Ceteareth-30, according to CTFA names); ethylene oxide adducts with cetyl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 30 oxyethylene units (Ceteth-2 to Ceteth-30, according to CTFA names); Ethylene oxide adducts with stearyl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 50 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (Steareth-2 to Steareth-20, according to CTFA names); ethylene oxide adducts with isostearyl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 50 oxyethylene units (Isosteareth-2 to Isosteareth-50, according to CTFA names); and mixtures thereof.
[0261] Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty esters that may be mentioned include ethylene oxide adducts with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, in particular those containing 9 to 100 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (according to CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (according to CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (according to CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (according to CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.
[0262] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol.
[0263] According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition contains at least one fatty alcohol comprising 2 to 9 ethylene oxide units and at least one fatty alcohol comprising 10 to 30 ethylene oxide units.
[0264] As examples of monoglycerol or polyglycerol nonionic surfactants, monoglycerol or polyglycerol alcohols in the C8-C40 range are preferably used.
[0265] In particular, monoglycerol or polyglycerol alcohols in the C8-C40 range correspond to the following formula:
[0266] RO-[CH2-CH(CH2OH)-O]mH or RO-[CH(CH2OH)-CH2O]mH
[0267] wherein R represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical, linear or branched, in the C8-C40 range and preferably in the C8-C30 range, and m represents a number in the range of 1 to 30 and preferably of 1.5 to 10.
[0268] By way of examples of compounds which are suitable in the context of the present invention, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (name INCI: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.
[0269] Alcohol can represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, meaning that, in a commercial product, several species of polyglycerol fatty alcohol can coexist in the form of a mixture.
[0270] Among monoglycerol or polyglycerol alcohols, it is preferable to use C8 / C10 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, C10 / C12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and C12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.
[0271] Monoglycerol or polyglycerol fatty esters in the C8-C40 range may correspond to the following formula:
[0272] R'O-[CH2-CH(CH2OR'”)-O]mR” or R'O-[CH(CH2OR'”)-CH2O]mR”
[0273] wherein each of R', R” and R”' independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C8-C40 alkyl-CO- or alkenyl-CO- radical and preferably a C8-C30 alkyl-CO- or alkenyl-CO- radical, provided that at least one of R', R” and R”' is not a hydrogen atom, and m represents a number in the range of 1 to 30 and preferably 1.5 to 10.
[0274] Examples of polyoxyethylenated fatty esters that may be mentioned include ethylene oxide adducts with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, in particular those containing 9 to 100 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (according to CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (according to CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (according to CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (according to CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.
[0275] Preferably, the nonionic surfactant may be a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 8 to 18. The HLB is the ratio of the hydrophilic to the lipophilic portion in the molecule. This term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described in "The HLB System: A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984).
[0276] The amount of the surfactant(s) in the composition may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0277] The amount of the surfactant(s) in the composition may be 35% by weight or less, preferably 30% by weight or less, and more preferably 25% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0278] The quantity of the surfactant(s) in the composition may be from 1% to 35% by weight, preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0279] (Silicone)
[0280] The first composition and / or the second composition may comprise at least one silicone. Only one type of silicone may be used, or two or more different types of silicones may be used in combination.
[0281] Silicone may be selected from the group consisting of polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes and organo-modified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group selected from poly(oxyalkylene) groups, amine or amino groups, alkoxy groups, hydroxyl groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, carboxylic acid groups, hydroxyacylamino groups, acrylic groups, polyamine groups and oxazoline groups, and silicone-based celluloses.
[0282] Suitable silicones for the present invention include, but are not limited to, volatile and non-volatile, cyclic, linear and branched silicones, optionally modified by organic groups, having a viscosity in the range of 5 x 106 to 2.5 m2 / s at 25 °C, for example, 1 x 105 to 1 m2 / s.
[0283] The silicones that can be used for the present invention may be soluble or insoluble in the composition and may be, for example, polyorganosiloxanes that are not soluble in the composition. They may be in a form selected from fluids, waxes, resins and gums.
[0284] Organopolysiloxanes are defined, for example, by Walter Noll in "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0285] When volatile, silicones can be chosen from those having a boiling point in the range of 60 °C to 260 °C, for example:
[0286] (i) cyclic polydialkyl siloxanes comprising 3 to 7, for example, 4 to 5 silicon atoms. Non-limiting examples of such siloxanes include octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, marketed, for example, under the brand name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE and SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, Decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, marketed under the brand name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as mixtures thereof, may be used. Cyclomethicones may also be used, for example, those marketed under the references DC 244, DC 245, DC 344, DC 345, and DC 246 by DOW CORNING. Cyclocopolymers of the dimethyl siloxane / methylalkyl siloxane type may also be used, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109, marketed by UNION CARBIDE, with the formula
[0287] in which:
[0288] Combinations of cyclic polydialkyl siloxanes with silicone-derived organic compounds may also be used, such as a (50 / 50) mixture of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilyl pentaerythritol and a mixture of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy)bis-neopentane; and
[0289] (ii) linear volatile polydialkyl siloxanes comprising from 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁶ m² / s at 25 °C. A non-limiting example of such a compound is decamethyl tetrasiloxane, marketed, for example, under the trade name "SH-200" by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones belonging to this class are also described, for example, in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 1976, pp. 27–32—TODD & BYERS, "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics."
[0290] In at least one embodiment, the silicones may be selected from non-volatile silicones, such as polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, waxes, gums, silicone resins, and polyorganosiloxanes modified by the organofunctional groups above.
[0291] According to another embodiment, the silicones are selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes having groups trimethylsilyl terminals known by the brand name dimethicones. The viscosity of these silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.
[0292] Non-limiting examples of commercial products corresponding to such polydialkylsiloxanes include:
[0293] SILBIONE® fluids of series 47 and 70 047 and MIRASIL® fluids marketed by RHODIA, for example, 70 047 fluid V 500 000;
[0294] the MIRASIL® series fluids marketed by RHODIA;
[0295] the 200 series fluids marketed by DOW CORNING such as DC200, having a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s;
[0296] GENERAL ELECTRIC's VISCASIL® fluids and certain fluids in the SF series (for example, SF 96 and SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC; and
[0297] the fluid marketed under the reference DC 1664 by DOW CORNING.
[0298] Polydimethyl siloxanes having dimethyl silanol terminal groups may also be used, for example, those sold under the brand name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series fluids marketed by RHODIA.
[0299] Products marketed under the brand names "ABIL Wax® 9800 and 9801" by GOLDSCHMIDT belonging to this class of polydialkylsiloxanes which are polydialkyl siloxanes (in Ci-C2o), can also be used.
[0300] Polydimethylsiloxane waxes can also be used.
[0301] Suitable silicone gums for the present invention include, but are not limited to, polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes having high number-average molecular weights in the range of 200,000 to 1,000,000, alone or in mixtures in a solvent. This solvent may be selected from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane fluids (PDMS), polyphenylmethylsiloxane fluids (PPMS), isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane, and mixtures thereof. The silicone gums may also be selected, for example, from amodimethicones (aminosilicones), such as the products marketed under the references DC 929 Emulsion and DC 939 Emulsion by Dow Corning.
[0302] According to at least one embodiment, combinations of silicones may also be used, such as:
[0303] mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the chain end, or dimethiconol (CTFA), and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2 1401 marketed by DOW CORNING;
[0304] mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone, such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid marketed by GENERAL ELECTRIC, such a product being an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a weight molecular average number of 500,000 solubilized in SF 1202 Silicone Fluid, a product corresponding to a decamethylcyclopentasiloxane;
[0305] mixtures of two PDMS having different viscosities, for example, mixtures of a PDMS rubber and a PDMS fluid, such as the product SF 1236 marketed by GENERAL ELECTRIC. The product SF 1236 is a mixture of an SE 30 rubber as defined above having a viscosity of 20 m² / s and an SF 96 fluid having a viscosity of 5 x 10⁶ m² / s. Such a product may comprise 15% of an SE 30 rubber and 85% of an SF 96 fluid.
[0306] Suitable organopolysiloxane resins for the present invention include, but are not limited to, cross-linked siloxane systems comprising at least one of the following units:
[0307] R2SiO2 / 2, R3SiOi / 2, RSiO3 / 2 and SiO4 / 2, where R is an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 16 carbon atoms. According to at least one embodiment, R is a lower alkyl group in Ci-C4, such as a methyl group.
[0308] These resins include, for example, the product marketed under the brand name "DOW CORNING 593" and those marketed under the brand names "SILICONE FLUID SS 4230 and SS 4267" by GENERAL ELECTRIC, which are dimethyl / trimethylsiloxane structure silicones.
[0309] Trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins can also be used, for example, those marketed under the brand names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by SHIN-ETSU.
[0310] Polyalkylaryl siloxanes can be selected from polydimethyl / methylphenyl siloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenyl siloxanes having viscosities in the range of 1 x 105 to 5 x 102 m2 / s at 25 °C.
[0311] Non-limiting examples of such polyalkylaryl siloxanes include products marketed under the following brand names:
[0312] RHODIA's SILBIONE® fluids of the 70 641 series; RHODIA's RHODORSIL® fluids of the 70 633 and 763 series;
[0313] the phenyl trimethicone fluid marketed under the reference DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID by DOW CORNING;
[0314] BAYER's PK series silicones, for example, product PK20;
[0315] silicones of the PN, PH series from BAYER, for example, the PN1000 products and PH1000; and
[0316] certain fluids from the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0317] Organomodified silicones that can be used for the present invention include, but are not limited to, silicones such as those defined above and comprising in their structure at least one organofunctional group linked by means of a hydrocarbon group.
[0318] Organomodified silicones may include, for example, polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
[0319] polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl groups, such as the products called dimethicone copolyols marketed by DOW CORNING under the brand name DC 1248 and under the brand name DC Q2-5220 and the SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 fluids marketed by UNION CARBIDE and the alkyl (Ci2)-methicone copolyol marketed by DOW CORNING under the brand name Q2 5200;
[0320] optionally substituted amine groups, for example, products marketed under the brand names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by GENESEE and products marketed under the brand names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 and 939 by DOW CORNING. The substituted amine groups may be selected, for example, from Ci-C4 amino alkyl groups. Aminosilicones may have additional CrC4 alkoxy functional groups;
[0321] alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the brand name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by GOLDSCHMIDT;
[0322] hydroxylated groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes containing a hydroxyalkyl function described, for example, in French patent application No. FR-A-85 163 34;
[0323] acyloxyalkyl groups, for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in US patent No. 4,957,732;
[0324] anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, for example, the products described in European Patent No. 0 186 507, marketed by CHISSO CORPORATION, and alkyl carboxylic anionic groups, such as those present in product X-22-3701E marketed by SHIN-ETSU; 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonate; and 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfate such as the products marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the brand names "ABIL® S201" and "ABIL® S255";
[0325] hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in European Patent Application No. 0 342 834. A non-limiting example of a corresponding commercial product is product Q2-8413 marketed by DOW CORNING;
[0326] acrylic groups, such as the products marketed under the names VS80 and VS70 by 3M;
[0327] polyamine groups, and
[0328] oxazoline groups .Ç.ï'weeew 5... Oh
[0329] The silicones that can be used for the present invention may comprise one or two oxazoline groups; for example, poly(2-methyl oxazoline-β-dimethyl siloxane-β-2-methyl oxazoline) and poly(2-ethyl-2-oxazoline-dimethyl siloxane). Products marketed by KAO under the references OX-40, OS-51, OS-96, and OS-88 may also be used.
[0330] Suitable silicone-based celluloses that can be used for the present invention include the products marketed by SHIN-ETSU under the references X-22-8401 and X-22-8404.
[0331] It is preferable that the silicone be selected from the group consisting of dimethicones, amodimethicones (aminosilicones), and mixtures thereof.
[0332] The amount of silicone(s) in the composition may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0333] The amount of silicone(s) in the composition may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0334] The quantity of silicone(s) in the composition may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0335] (Oil)
[0336] The first composition and / or the second composition may comprise at least one oil. Only one type of oil may be used, or two or more different types of oils may be used in combination.
[0337] Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or oily substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not a solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0338] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or other; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture of these.
[0339] The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.
[0340] Examples of oils of vegetable origin may be mentioned, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0341] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.
[0342] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.
[0343] Ester oils are preferably liquid esters of Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0344] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters are derived is branched.
[0345] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0346] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and Cr C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C26 non-carbohydrate dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0347] In particular, the following may be mentioned: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
[0348] As ester oils, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C3O fatty acids, and preferably C2-C22, may be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" refers to hydrocarbon-based compounds bearing oxygen, containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.
[0349] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, in particular alkylated derivatives, such as methylated derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0350] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, in C6-C3o and preferably in Ci2-C22. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0351] Esters according to this variant can also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0352] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearates, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
[0353] Monoesters and diesters are used in particular, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0354] One example that can be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0355] By way of examples of preferred ester oils, mention may be made, for example, of diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, laurate isohexyl, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0356] Examples of artificial triglycerides may be mentioned, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate), and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).
[0357] Examples of silicone oils may be mentioned, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenopolysiloxane, and others; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and others; and mixtures thereof.
[0358] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
[0359] These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that can be used for the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
[0360] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Chemistry and Technology of Silicones by Walter Noll (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0361] When volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C, and even more particularly from:
[0362] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 and preferably of 4 to 5 silicon atoms. Examples include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia; decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia; and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Also noteworthy are cyclocopolymers such as dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109, sold by Union Carbide, with the formula: p DD ——dg —; ÇHa '----------------------------ÇH; with D”: '"" SH O — with 0': """ St ™ O — CHg 0¾¾
[0363] We can also mention mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the (50 / 50) mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and
[0364] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁶ m² / s at 25 °C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 1976, pp. 27–32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.
[0365] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main ones to mention are the polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl terminal groups.
[0366] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be mentioned, in a non-limiting manner:
[0367] - Silbione® oils of series 47 and 70 047 or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;
[0368] - the Mirasil® series oils sold by the Rhodia company;
[0369] - Dow Corning's 200 series oils, such as DC200, having a viscosity of 60,000 mm² / s; and
[0370] - Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils in the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) of General Electric.
[0371] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series oils from the Rhodia company.
[0372] Among silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.
[0373] The phenyl silicone oil may be selected from the phenyl silicones of the following formula:
[0374] in which
[0375] Ri in Rio, independently of each other, are C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, preferably C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more preferably C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and
[0376] m, n, p, and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably from 0 to 100 inclusive,
[0377] provided that the sum n + m + q is different from 0.
[0378] Examples that may be mentioned include products sold under the following names:
[0379] - Rhodia's Silbione® oils from the 70 641 series;
[0380] - the oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;
[0381] - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;
[0382] - Bayer's PK series silicones, such as the PK20 product;
[0383] - certain oils in the SF series from GENERAL ELECTRIC, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0384] As a phenyl silicone oil, a phenyl trimethicone (Ri to Rio are a methyl;p, qetn = 0;m=l in the formula above) is preferable.
[0385] Organomodified liquid silicones may, in particular, contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.
[0386] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:
[0387] - lower C6-Ci6 alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples that can be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and
[0388] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam#, and squalane.
[0389] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils may be mentioned, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, a mineral oil (for example, liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and others; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and a decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
[0390] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohols refers to the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols with 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols can be linear or branched.
[0391] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from alkyl groups in the form C2-C2O and alkenyl groups in the form C2-C2O. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.
[0392] Examples of fatty alcohols may be mentioned, such as lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonylic alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0393] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.
[0394] Thus, the fatty alcohol can be selected from C6-C30 alcohols, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably C6-C30 saturated alcohols, linear or branched, and more preferably Ci2-C20 saturated alcohols, linear or branched.
[0395] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" here refers to an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. Preferably, the saturated fatty alcohol should be selected from any linear or branched C6-C30 saturated fatty alcohol. Among linear or branched C6-C30 saturated fatty alcohols, linear or branched Ci2-C20 saturated fatty alcohols may preferably be used. Any linear Ci6-C20 saturated fatty alcohol or branched, may be used more preferably. C16-C20 branched fatty alcohols may be used even more preferably.
[0396] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), as well as behenyl alcohol, may be used as saturated fatty alcohols.
[0397] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition for the present invention is preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0398] The oil may be selected from non-polar or polar oils, preferably hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, ester oils, and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably isododecane, isohexadecane, dimethicone, diisopropyl sebacate and mixtures thereof.
[0399] The amount of oil (oils) in the composition may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0400] The quantity of oil (oils) in the composition may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0401] The quantity of oil (oils) in the composition may be from 0.01% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0402] (Other optional ingredients)
[0403] The first composition and / or the second composition may also include any optional ingredients conventionally used in cosmetics for keratin fibers such as hair, such as anionic, non-ionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, or mixtures thereof; antioxidants; thickening agents; sequestering agents; perfumes; dispersing agents; an acidic agent, an alkali agent, film-forming agents; ceramides; preservatives; and opacifying agents.
[0404] {Preparation}
[0405] Each of the first and second compositions can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s) as explained above.
[0406] The method and means of mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means may be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the first and second compositions.
[0407] {Form}
[0408] The first composition and / or the second composition may be in the form of a cosmetic composition, preferably a hair cleansing composition and a hair care composition, and more preferably a shampoo and conditioner.
[0409] The composition according to the present invention may be of the no-rinse or rinse-off type. The no-rinse composition is not rinsed after being used on keratin fibers. The rinse-off composition is rinsed after being used on keratin fibers.
[0410] It is preferable that the composition which is applied first to keratin fibers be a shampoo, and that the composition which is applied second to keratin fibers be a conditioner.
[0411] {Processing steps}
[0412] According to the present invention, keratin fibers such as hair are treated by the first and second compositions.
[0413] The method according to the present invention comprises the steps of:
[0414] (1) treatment of keratin fibers by a first composition comprising at minus one polyphenol; and
[0415] (2) treatment of keratin fibers by a second composition comprising at minus a water-soluble polymer,
[0416] in which
[0417] Keratin fibers are treated by step (1) above followed by step (2) above.
[0418] In other words, the process according to the present invention can be carried out by:
[0419] (a) treatment of keratin fibers first with the first composition,
[0420] and then,
[0421] (b) treatment of keratin fibers first with the second composition.
[0422] The first composition can be removed from the keratin fibers after treatment of the keratin fibers with the first composition.
[0423] Thus, it is possible, if necessary, to perform a rinsing step between the treatment of the keratin fibers with the first composition and the treatment of the keratin fibers with the second composition. After the rinsing step, a drying step can be performed before the subsequent treatment of the keratin fibers with the second composition.
[0424] Moreover, the first composition can be maintained on the keratin fibers after treatment of the keratin fibers with the first composition.
[0425] After steps (a) and (b) above, a rinsing step may or may not be performed. If a rinsing step is performed, a drying step may be performed, if necessary, after the rinsing step.
[0426] The process according to the present invention is not a permanent reshaping process such as permanent waving or smoothing for keratin fibers.
[0427] The keratin fibers to which each of the first and second compositions has been applied can be left for an appropriate time as required to treat the keratin fibers. The duration for each treatment is not limited, but it can be from 1 to 30 minutes, preferably from 1 to 20 minutes, and more preferably from 1 to 10 minutes. Thus, for example, the total time for the treatments according to the present invention can be from 3 to 60 minutes, preferably from 3 to 40 minutes, and more preferably from 3 to 20 minutes.
[0428] Keratin fibers can be treated at room temperature. Alternatively, keratin fibers can be heated to 25 °C to 65 °C, preferably 30 °C to 60 °C, more preferably 35 °C to 55 °C, and even more preferably 40 °C to 50 °C, before and / or during and / or after the application step of each of the first and second compositions on the keratin fibers.
[0429] The above process is preferably intended for cosmetic purposes for keratin fibers, for example, for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, such as hair, other than a permanent reshaping of keratin fibers.
[0430] The process according to the present invention can improve the strength of keratin fibers such as hair and / or reduce the alteration of the color of dyed keratin fibers such as dyed hair.
[0431] It is possible, by means of the process according to the present invention, to endow keratin fibers such as hair with improved strength or hardness. Thus, the process according to the present invention can endow keratin fibers with improved cosmetic properties such as greater suppleness and elasticity.
[0432] It is also possible, by means of the process according to the present invention, to endow dyed keratin fibers, such as dyed hair, with resistance to hair treatments such as washing and conditioning. Thus, the process according to the present invention can provide dyed keratin fibers exhibiting less color alteration than a process in which the first compositions one not including polyphenol and the second composition not including plant-derived protein are used.
[0433] [Product, kit and use]
[0434] The present invention also relates to a product for the treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising
[0435] (1) a first composition; and
[0436] (2) a second composition,
[0437] in which
[0438] the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol, and
[0439] the second composition comprises at least one water-soluble polymer.
[0440] The above explanations relating to the polyphenol and the water-soluble polymer, as well as to the first and second compositions, used by the process according to the present invention, can be applied to those for the product according to the present invention.
[0441] The product is preferably a cosmetic product, and more preferably a cosmetic composition, for the treatment of keratin fibers such as hair.
[0442] The present invention also relates to a kit for the treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising
[0443] (1) a first compartment comprising a first composition; and
[0444] (2) a second compartment comprising a second composition,
[0445] in which
[0446] the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol, and
[0447] the second composition comprises at least one water-soluble polymer.
[0448] The above explanations relating to the polyphenol and the water-soluble polymer, as well as to the first and second compositions, used by the process according to the present invention, can be applied to those for the kit according to the present invention.
[0449] A person skilled in the art can prepare the kit according to the present invention using conventional packaging technology. The kit according to the present invention includes first and second compartments, each of which contains the first and second compositions separately, respectively. The first and second compartments may be equipped with a dispensing or discharge means such as a pump. The first and second compartments may be contained separately in two separate containers. Alternatively, the first and second compartments may be contained in a single container.
[0450] It is possible to use the kit, for example, in,
[0451] (a) dispensing or discharging the first composition from the first compartment,
[0452] (b) applying the first composition to keratin fibers,
[0453] (c) dispensing or discharging the second composition from the second compartment, and
[0454] (d) applying the first composition to keratin fibers that have already been treated by the first composition.
[0455] It is possible, if necessary, to carry out a rinsing step with or without a drying step between step (b) above and step (c) above and / or after step (d) above.
[0456] The present invention also relates to the use of a combination of
[0457] (1) treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair, by a first composition; and
[0458] (2) treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair, by a second composition,
[0459] in which
[0460] the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol, and
[0461] the second composition comprises at least one water-soluble polymer
[0462] in order to improve the strength or hardness of keratin fibers and / or to reduce the alteration of the color of keratin fibers.
[0463] The above explanations relating to the polyphenol and the water-soluble polymer, as well as to the first and second compositions, used by the process according to the present invention, can be applied to those for use according to the present invention.
[0464] The use according to the present invention can be based on a combination of
[0465] (1) treatment of keratin fibers with at least one polyphenol; and
[0466] (2) treatment of keratin fibers by at least one water-soluble polymer
[0467] in order to improve the strength or hardness of keratin fibers and / or to reduce the alteration of the color of keratin fibers.
[0468] The above combination can improve, for example, the suppleness or elasticity of keratin fibers such as hair and / or reduce the alteration of the color of keratin fibers such as hair due to certain activities such as shampooing and conditioning of keratin fibers.
[0469] The processing steps (1) and (2) above are carried out separately and sequentially. In other words, steps (1) and (2) above are not carried out simultaneously.
[0470] The above product, kit and use are preferably intended for cosmetic purposes for keratin fibers, for example, for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, such as hair, other than permanent reshaping of keratin fibers.
[0471] The above product, kit and use according to the present invention can improve the strength or hardness of keratin fibers such as hair and / or reduce the alteration of the color of dyed keratin fibers such as dyed hair.
[0472] It is possible, by means of the product, the kit, and the use according to the present invention, to endow keratin fibers such as hair with improved strength or hardness. Thus, they can give keratin fibers better cosmetic properties such as improved suppleness and elasticity.
[0473] It is also possible, using the product, kit, and application according to the present invention, to provide dyed keratin fibers, such as dyed hair, with resistance to hair treatments such as washing and conditioning. Thus, they can provide dyed keratin fibers exhibiting less color alteration than those in which the first composition, which does not include polyphenols, and the second composition, which includes no water-soluble polymers, are used.
[0474] EXAMPLES
[0475] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention. Compositions 1-3
[0476] [Preparation]
[0477] Three of the compositions, which are referred to as "Composition 1" to "Composition 3" below, were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1. The numerical values for the quantities of the ingredients are all on the basis of "% by weight" as active materials.
[0478] [Tables] Composition 1 Composition 2 Composition 3 Tannic acid 0.1 0.5 1.0 Sodium hydroxide qs pH 4.5 qs pH 4.5 qs pH 4.5 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Composition 4
[0479] [Preparation]
[0480] A composition, which is referred to below as "Composition 4", was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 2. The numerical values for The quantities of ingredients are all based on "% by weight" as active materials.
[0481] [Tableaux2] Weight (%) Polyvinylpyrrolidone 1 Water qsp 100
[0482] Hair treatment tests (Examples 1 to 8 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5)
[0483] Strands of hair having identical properties were treated in accordance with the protocols according to Examples 1 to 8 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 shown in Table 3.
[0484] In Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5, strands of hair (1 g, 27 cm) having the same properties were used.
[0485] The "Application Step 1" and "Application Step 2" columns in Table 3 show which composition was applied to a strand of hair in the first and second steps, respectively, of the hair treatment. No indication in the column means that no composition was applied to the strand of hair.
[0486] In each of Application Step 1 and Application Step 2, a composition was applied to a strand of hair at a ratio of 1 g / 1 g of hair under ambient conditions (25 °C, RH 40%).
[0487] The "After Step 1 / Before Step 2" column in Table 4 shows the action on the hair strand during the 30-minute period between Application Step 1 and Application Step 2. The term "rinse" in Table 3 means that the composition on the hair strand was rinsed with tap water (37°C) for 10 seconds. The term "blow-dry" in Table 3 means that the hair strand was dried by blowing air. The term "no-rinse" in Table 3 means that the composition on the hair strand was not removed after application. The term "layer application" in Table 3 means that the composition was applied in layers to the hair strand.
[0488] The "After Step 2" column in Table 3 shows the effect on the hair strand after Application Step 2. The term "rinse" in Table 3 means that the composition on the hair strand was rinsed with tap water (37°C) for 10 seconds. The term "blow-dry" in Table 3 means that the hair strand was dried by blowing air. The term "no rinsing" in Table 3 means that the composition on the hair strand was not removed after application of the composition to the hair strand.
[0489] [Tables3] Application Step 1 After Step 1 / Before Step 2 Application Step 2 After Step 2 Application time(s) in each of Steps 1 and 2 Ex. Comp. 1 Composition 1 Rinse, Blow dry - - 3 times Ex. Comp. 2 Composition 2 Rinse, Blow dry - - 3 times Ex. Comp. 3 Composition 3 Rinse, Blow dry - - 3 times Ex. Comp. Composition 4 Rinse, Blow dry - - 3 times Ex. 1 Composition 1 Rinse, Blow dry Composition 4 Rinse, Blow dry 3 times Ex. 2 Composition 2 Rinse, Blow dry Composition 4 Rinse, Blow dry 3 times Ex. 3 Composition 3 Rinse, Blow dry Composition 4 Rinse, Blow dry 3 times Ex. Composition 5 Composition 4 No rinse, Blow dry - - 1 time Ex. 4 Composition 1 Rinse, Blow dry Composition 4 No rinse, Blow dry 1 time Ex.5 Composition 1 Leave-in, Apply in a layer Composition 4 Leave-in, Blow-dry once. Example 6: Composition 1: Leave-in, apply in a layer. Composition 4: Rinse, blow-dry 3 times. Example 7: Composition 2: Leave-in, apply in a layer. Composition 4: Rinse, blow-dry 3 times. Example 8: Composition 3: Leave-in, apply in a layer. Composition 4: Rinse, blow-dry 3 times.
[0490] [Evaluations]
[0491] A sensory test was carried out by five panelists to evaluate the resistance (hardness) of the hair strands after the hair treatments according to Examples 1 to 8 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 by comparing the hair strands with a hair strand without any hair treatment whose score was determined to be 3 as a reference (standard), and determination of the score of the relative resistance of hair fibers in accordance with the following criteria.
[0492] 5: much stronger than the resistance of an untreated strand of hair
[0493] 4: stronger than the resistance of an untreated strand of hair
[0494] 3: similar to the resistance of an untreated strand of hair
[0495] 2: more fragile than the resistance of an untreated strand of hair
[0496] 1: much more fragile than the resistance of an untreated strand of hair
[0497] The average scores were calculated. A higher score indicates hair fibers perceived as being more resistant. The results are shown in Tables 4-6 below.
[0498] [Tables4] Reference Resistance 3.0 Ex. Comp. 1 3.6 Ex. Comp. 2 3.8 Ex. Comp. 3 4.2 Ex. Comp. 4 2.8 Ex. 1 3.9 Ex. 2 4.3 Ex. 3 4.5
[0499] Table 4 shows the results of the sensory evaluation of treated hair strands under conditions where rinsing was carried out between Application Step 1 and Application Step 2.
[0500] A stepwise hair treatment with tannic acid and polyvinylpyrrolidone (Ex. 1 to Ex. 3) resulted in an improved level of hair fiber resistance compared with hair treatment with tannic acid or polyvinylpyrrolidone alone (Ex. Comp. 1 to Ex. Comp. 4).
[0501] [Tables5] Reference Resistance 3.0 Ex. Comp. 5 2.7 Ex. 4 4.0 Ex. 5 3.8
[0502] Table 5 shows the results of the sensory evaluation of treated hair strands under conditions where no rinsing was carried out after the last hair treatment.
[0503] A stepwise hair treatment with tannic acid and polyvinylpyrrolidone (Ex. 4 and Ex. 5) resulted in an improved level of hair fiber strength compared with hair treatment with polyvinylpyrrolidone alone (Ex. Comp. 5).
[0504] [Tableauxô] Reference Resistance 3.0 Ex. Comp. 4 2.8 Ex. 6 3.9 Ex. 7 4.4 Ex. 8 4.7
[0505] Table 6 shows the results of the sensory evaluation of hair strands treated under conditions where the last compositions applied to the hair strands were removed by rinsing the hair strands.
[0506] A two-step application to hair of tannic acid and polyvinylpyrrolidone (Ex. 6 to Ex. 7) resulted in an improved level of hair fiber resistance compared to hair treatment with polyvinylpyrrolidone alone (Ex. Comp. 4). Shampoo compositions 1 and 2
[0507] [Preparation]
[0508] Compositions, which are referred to as "Shampoo Composition 1" and "Shampoo Composition 2" below, were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 7. The numerical values for the quantities of the ingredients are all on the basis of "% by weight" as active materials.
[0509] [Tables7] Shampoo Composition g 1 Shampoo Composition g2 Salicylic Acid 0.2 0.2 Sodium Benzoate 0.5 0.5 Sodium Laureth Sulfate 16 16 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 6.4 6.4 Tannic Acid 0.5 - Sodium Chloride 2.5 2.5 Citric Acid qs pH 5.3 qs pH 5.3 Sodium Hydroxide qs pH 5.3 qs pH 5.3 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 Conditioner compositions 1 and 2
[0510] [Preparation]
[0511] Compositions, which are referred to as "Conditioner Composition 1" and "Conditioner Composition 2" below, were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 8. The numerical values for the quantities of the ingredients are all on the basis of "% by weight" as active materials.
[0512] [Tables8] Conditioner Composition 1 Conditioner Composition 2 Cetearyl Alcohol 6 6 Cetyl Esters (and) Cetyl Esters 1 1 Behentrimonium Chloride 3 3 Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-8 (and) Cetrimonium Chloride 1.22 1.22 PVP 1 - Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5 Chlorhexidine Digluconate 0.2 0.2 Citric Acid qs pH 4.0 qs pH 4.0 Potassium Hydroxide qs pH 4.0 qs pH 4.0 Fragrance 0.7 0.7 Water qsp 100 qsp 100
[0513] Hair colouring tests (Example 9 and Comparative Example 6)
[0514] Strands of hair having identical properties were placed on a heated plate at 27 °C. A 1:1 mixture (weight ratio) of an oxidative colouring product (Alluria Ash Blue 8.11 shade 8, L'Oreal Professional) and an oxidizing product (Alluria Cream Oxydant, L'Oreal Professional) was applied to each of the hair strands at a ratio of 3 g of mixture / g of hair, and the hair strands were left for 30 minutes until rinsed with tap water (37 °C) to prepare coloured hair strands.
[0515] The above coloured hair strands were treated as shown in Table 9. The coloured hair strands were washed with Shampoo Composition 1 (Ex. 9) or Shampoo Composition 2 (Ex. Comp. 6) at a ratio of 0.4 g of shampoo / g of hair, and rinsed with tap water (37 °C).
[0516] Then, without drying, Conditioner Composition 1 (Ex. 9) or Conditioner Composition 2 (Ex. Comp. 6) was applied to the colored hair strands at a ratio of 0.4 g of conditioner / g of hair and left for 5 minutes under ambient conditions (25 °C, RH 40%).
[0517] The above shampoo and conditioner were repeated.
[0518] Finally, the colored hair strands were dried with a hairdryer.
[0519] [Tables9] Ex. 9 Ex. Comp. 6 Shampoo Shampoo Composition 1 Shampoo Composition 2 Conditioner Conditioner Composition 1 Conditioner Composition 2 Shampoo and Conditioner Repeats AE AE 0 (immediately after coloring) 0 0 4 6.96 8.60 8 8.82 10.1
[0520] [Evaluations]
[0521] In Example 9, a colour alteration analysis was performed on the coloured hair strand that had been subjected to an oxidative dye as above, determining the colour change (AE*) before and after treatment of the coloured hair strand with a shampoo including tannic acid (Shampoo Composition 1) and a conditioner including PVP (Conditioner Composition 1).
[0522] In Comparative Example 6, a colour alteration analysis was performed on the coloured hair strand that had been subjected to an oxidative dye as above, determining the colour change (AE*) before and after treatment of the coloured hair strand with a shampoo not including tannic acid (Shampoo Composition 2) and a conditioner including no PVP (Conditioner Composition 2).
[0523] The color difference (AE* based on CIE1976) was measured using a Konica Minolta CM-3600A. A smaller AE* indicates less color alteration. The results are shown in Table 9.
[0524] At every point in the treatment, the use of a shampoo including tannic acid and a conditioner including PVP showed lower AE* values (less color alteration) compared to the use of a shampoo not including tannic acid and a conditioner not including PVP.
[0525] The foregoing demonstrates that the use of a shampoo including tannic acid and a conditioner including PVP for coloured hair can provide less colour alteration.
Claims
Demands
1. Use of a combination of (1) treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair, by a first composition; and (2) treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair, by a second composition, wherein the first composition comprises at least one polyphenol, and the second composition comprises at least one water-soluble polymer, the polyphenol being tannic acid and the water-soluble polymer being polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), in order to improve the strength or hardness of keratin fibers.