composition of keratin treatment and mask containing it

Abstract

Keratinous Skin Care Composition and Mask Containing Therefrom. The present invention relates to a keratinous skin care composition comprising, in an aqueous phase: (i) at least one acid fermentation extract; and (ii) at least one neutralized acrylic polyacid, wherein the composition has a pH of 5.3 to 7.0 and a viscosity of 14 to 65 UD as determined with a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with an M2 spindle at a shear rate of 200 rpm. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care of keratinous skin, particularly skin. Figure for the abstract: Figure 1

Description

Title of the invention: composition for caring for keratinous materials and mask containing it Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition and a mask containing the same. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Skin aging is part of the aging process of the human body, which is not only related to age itself, but is also closely related to external factors, such as sun exposure. Light-induced skin aging ("light-induced aging") is mainly caused by solar irradiation, and as the depletion of the ozone layer worsens, light-induced skin aging becomes more and more serious, which affects the appearance of the skin.

[0003] Extracts of medicinal materials of plant origin generally include many active ingredients, such as saponins, flavonoids and alkaloids, many of which have various skin care functions. Cosmetic products based on ingredients of plant origin have a thousand-year history in China. In particular, nowadays, people prefer natural substances to chemically synthesized substances. Therefore, cosmetic products containing ingredients of plant origin, for example, acid fermentation extracts, are becoming increasingly popular.

[0004] The formulation of cosmetic compositions presents many challenges. With regard to masks (face masks and eye masks), in order to achieve better impregnation into the mask fabric, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition must be relatively low. However, the polymer contained in the cosmetic composition having a relatively low viscosity will tend to be unstable and precipitate from the composition.

[0005] Furthermore, for masks using alginate fabric as mask fabric, it is necessary that they include salts or cationic ions for the cosmetic composition impregnated in the fabric, which could also reduce the stability of the cosmetic composition.

[0006] In order to be commercially acceptable, the composition must be stable over a certain period of time. No matter how effective a product is, it will not be commercially acceptable if it disintegrates or deteriorates under the conditions normal shipping and storage conditions prior to sale.

[0007] There is therefore a need to formulate a composition for caring for keratinous materials comprising an acid fermentation extract, which is stable and suitable for a mask using an alginate fabric as the mask fabric. Summary of the invention

[0008] The inventors have found that such a need can be satisfied by the present invention.

[0009] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratinous materials comprising in an aqueous phase:

[0010] (i) at least one acid fermentation extract; and

[0011] (ii) at least one neutralized polyacrylic acid,

[0012] wherein the composition has a pH of 5.3 to 7.0 and a viscosity of 14 to 65 UD as determined with a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with an M2 spindle at a shear rate of 200 rpm.

[0013] The composition according to the present invention is stable and suitable for a mask, especially those using an alginate fabric as mask fabric.

[0014] The composition according to the present invention has a viscosity of 14 to 65 UD, determined with a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with an M2 spindle at a shear rate of 200 rpm, and has a jelly-like texture.

[0015] The composition according to the present invention can be used as an anti-aging cosmetic product.

[0016] The composition according to the present invention can deliver a feeling of lightness and freshness.

[0017] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a mask for caring for keratinous materials, comprising:

[0018] A) a water-insoluble mask fabric, and

[0019] B) a composition according to the present invention impregnated into the mask fabric.

[0020] According to a third aspect, the present invention also provides a cosmetic process for caring for keratinous materials, in particular human skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous materials.

[0021] Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even more apparent from the detailed description and examples which follow. Brief description of the drawings

[0022] Implementations of the present invention will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying figures, in which:

[0023] [Fig-1] [Fig. 1] shows the rheological plot of the composition of Invention Example 1 and Comparative Example 1, where the square lines indicate the storage modulus; the triangular lines indicate the loss modulus.

[0024] [Fig.2] [Fig.2] shows the appearance of the composition of Comparative Example 1 in different conditions, A: 37°C for 2 months, B: 45°C for 2 months, C: 10-day cycle then room temperature for 2 months, D: room temperature for 2 months.

[0025] [Fig.3] [Fig.3] shows the appearance of the composition of Comparative Example 2 in different conditions: A: 37°C for 2 months, B: 45°C for 2 months, C: 10-day cycle then room temperature for 2 months, D: room temperature for 2 months. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0026] As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included within that range, particularly in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0027] As used herein, the term "comprising" shall be interpreted to encompass all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, and unspecified features.

[0028] As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0029] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by a person skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains. Where the definition of a term in this specification conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by a person skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains, the definition described herein shall apply.

[0030] Unless otherwise indicated, all numerical values ​​expressing the amount of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about". Accordingly, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​which may be changed according to the desired performance, obtained as needed.

[0031] As used herein, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0032] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “keratinous material” is intended to mean cover the skin. Facial skin and eye skin are more particularly considered according to the present invention.

[0033] As used herein, the term "stable" means that the composition does not show any obvious change in appearance and odor as well as flow behavior for at least 2 months.

[0034] The care composition for keratinous materials according to the present invention comprises in an aqueous phase:

[0035] (i) at least one acid fermentation extract; and

[0036] (ii) at least one neutralized polyacrylic acid,

[0037] wherein the composition has a pH of 5.3 to 7.0 and a viscosity of 14 to 65 UD as determined with a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with an M2 spindle at a shear rate of 200 rpm. Inactivated cultures of Bifidobacterium

[0038] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one acid fermentation extract.

[0039] Examples of acid fermentation extracts include inactivated cultures of Bifidobacterium, Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea Ferment, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Lactococcus Ferment, Vitreoscilla Ferment, Lac-Tobacillus Ferment, and combinations thereof.

[0040] Preferably, the acid fermentation extract is chosen from inactivated cultures of Bifidobacterium.

[0041] Inactivated cultures of Bifidobacterium can be manufactured according to the process disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 4,464,362.

[0042] The Bifidobacterium may be from a variety of species. Preferably, the species are those that confer the designation "probiotic." Most preferred is where the species is Bifidobacterium longum.

[0043] More specific examples of Bifidobacterium are designated by their INCI names, for example Bifida lysate, Bifida ferment lysate, Bifida filtrate, and so on. Also suitable are Bifida extract, which is an extract obtained from the fermentation of Bifidobacterium longum, and Bifida ferment filtrate, which is a filtrate of the product obtained by fermentation of Bifida.

[0044] Thus, preferably, the inactivated Bifidobacterium culture is selected from Bifida lysate, Bifida ferment lysate, Bifida filtrate, Bifida extract, Bifida ferment filtrate, and a combination thereof.

[0045] The most preferred is Bifida ferment lysate, which is a product obtained by the fermentation of Bifida and registered under the INCI name: Bifida ferment Lysate, under the EINECS name: Bifidobacterium longum, under the EINECS number: 306-168-4 and under the CAS number: 96507-89-0. Such a lysate is in particular sold under the name Repair Complex CLR® by K. Richter GmbH.

[0046] Bifida ferment lysate contains the metabolic products and cytoplasmic fractions when bifidobacteria are cultured, inactivated and then disrupted. Typically, Bifida ferment lysate contains acetic acid and / or lactic acid.

[0047] Advantageously, the acid fermentation extract is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 3.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Neutralized polyacrylic acid

[0048] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one neutralized polyacrylic acid.

[0049] Neutralized polyacrylic acids suitable for use in the present invention include, but are not limited to, metal salts of polyacrylic acid.

[0050] Neutralized polyacrylic acids may be partially or completely neutralized.

[0051] The acrylic monomers of the neutralized polyacrylic acids according to the invention can be neutralized in a proportion of 5% to 100%.

[0052] Examples include sodium, potassium, lithium and ammonium salts of polyacrylic acid.

[0053] The most preferred neutralized polyacrylic acid is sodium polyacrylate.

[0054] Sodium polyacrylates are acrylic homopolymers in the form of partially or completely neutralized, and they are hydrophilic.

[0055] According to the invention, the expression “hydrophilic polymer” designates a non-amphiphilic polymer which is soluble and dispersible in water.

[0056] In a preferred embodiment, said polyacrylate is sodium polyacrylate which is designated by the CAS number 9003-04-7. Sodium polyacrylate is for example marketed by Sigma-Aldrich, or COSMEDIA SP sold by the company BASF.

[0057] Sodium polyacrylate sold under the name Cosmedia SP® contains 90% dry matter and 10% water.

[0058] Advantageously, the neutralized polyacrylic acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 3.0% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 0.4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. pH correction agent

[0059] According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention has a pH of 5.3 to 7.0.

[0060] Preferably, the composition has a pH of 5.7 to 6.3.

[0061] The composition may comprise a pH correcting agent in order to have an appropriate pH.

[0062] The pH correcting agent is selected from citrate buffer, phosphate buffer, monobasic sodium phosphate, gluconic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, trisodium citrate, acetic acid, maleic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, sodium phosphate, sodium gluconate, sodium lactate, sodium citrate, sodium acetate, potassium citrate, sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate, sodium dihydrogen phosphate, potassium dihydrogen phosphate, sodium carbonate, sodium hydrogen carbonate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, and a combination thereof.

[0063] Preferably, the pH correcting agent is selected from acetic acid, sodium acetate, tartaric acid, sodium tartrate, citric acid, sodium citrate and a combination thereof.

[0064] Most preferably, the pH correcting agent is selected from sodium acetate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate and a combination thereof.

[0065] When the pH correcting agent is selected from sodium acetate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate and a combination thereof, it is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 1.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 0.45% by weight, more preferably from 0.15% by weight to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0066] When the composition is impregnated into an alginate fabric to form a mask, a pH correcting agent selected from sodium acetate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate and a combination thereof can react with the alginate to gel. In other words, sodium acetate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate and a combination thereof can not only react with the alginate, but also behave as a pH correcting agent. Aqueous phase

[0067] The composition of the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.

[0068] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible solvents, for example C2 to C8 polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.

[0069] Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises water and at least one C2-C8 polyol.

[0070] The term “polyol” should be understood to mean any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycerin, and glycols, for example butylene glycol, propanediol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, and isoprene glycol, caprylyl glycol.

[0071] Preferably, the at least one C2-C8 polyol is chosen from propanediol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, and a combination thereof.

[0072] More preferably, the aqueous phase comprises propanediol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and glycerin.

[0073] Advantageously, the at least one C2-C8 polyol is present in an amount ranging from 5% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 8% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] The aqueous phase may be present in an amount ranging from 30% by weight to 97.5% by weight, preferably from 30% by weight to 97% by weight, more preferably from 60% by weight to 97% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0075] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention does not comprise an oily phase. Additional cosmetic active ingredients

[0076] Depending on the final objective, the composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more additional cosmetic active ingredients.

[0077] As cosmetic active ingredients that can be used in the composition of the present invention, examples that can be mentioned include enzymes, flavonoids, additional anti-aging agents, humectants (e.g., biosaccharide gum-1, mannose, sodium hyaluronate), tightening agents, soothing agents, additional ferments (e.g., saccharomyces / xylinum / black tea ferment), and mixtures thereof.

[0078] It is easy for the person skilled in the art to adjust the amount of the additional cosmetic active ingredient depending on the end use of the composition according to the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0079] The composition of the present invention may include conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, perfumes, surfactants (e.g., nonionic surfactants, e.g., caprylyl / capryl glucoside), chelating agents (e.g., disodium EDTA), preservatives (e.g., chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides (e.g., hydroxyacetophenone), additional thickeners (e.g., xanthan gum, hydroxyethylcellulose), and mixtures thereof.

[0080] The person skilled in the art can select the amount of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to have a negative impact on the end use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0081] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratinous materials comprising in an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0082] (i) from 0.1% by weight to 1.0% by weight of Bifida ferment lysate;

[0083] (ii) from 0.2% by weight to 0.4% by weight of sodium polyacrylate; and

[0084] (iii) a pH correcting agent selected from sodium acetate, sodium citrate sodium, sodium tartrate, and a combination thereof,

[0085] wherein the composition has a pH of 5.7 to 6.3 and a viscosity of 14 to 65 UD as determined with a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with an M2 spindle at a shear rate of 200 rpm.

[0086] The composition according to the present invention can be impregnated into a water-insoluble mask fabric to form a mask.

[0087] According to the second aspect, the present invention relates to a mask for caring for keratinous materials, comprising:

[0088] A) a water-insoluble mask fabric, and

[0089] B) a composition according to the present invention impregnated into the mask fabric. Water-insoluble mask fabrics

[0090] For the purposes of the invention, the expression "water-insoluble" means that the mask fabric is not soluble in water and that it does not disintegrate upon immersion in water.

[0091] The person skilled in the art can choose a suitable mask fabric and the weight ratio between the mask fabric used and the composition according to the present invention based on the nature of the composition.

[0092] The mask fabric may be a woven or non-woven fabric made of natural fibers such as cotton, pulp, bamboo and cellulose fibers, semi-natural fibers such as viscose rayon fibers and synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers, polyethylene terephthalate fibers, polyethylene fibers and polypropylene fibers. Two or more fibers selected from the above fibers may be used in combination.

[0093] In some embodiments, the mask fabric is an alginate fabric.

[0094] Alginate fabrics are known in the art and are described in the document WO2020001069A1.

[0095] For example, an alginate fabric may comprise a water-insoluble alginate selected from calcium alginate, strontium alginate, zinc alginate, copper alginate, manganese alginate, or a mixture thereof, preferably alginate of calcium, preferably in an amount ranging from 20% by weight to 100% by weight, preferably from 20% by weight to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fabric.

[0096] Preferably, when the mask fabric is an alginate fabric, the composition according to the present invention comprises a pH correcting agent selected from sodium acetate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate and a combination thereof in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 1.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 0.45% by weight, more preferably from 0.15% by weight to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.

[0097] The mask fabric may consist of one or more layers. If a multi-layer fabric is used, the materials of each layer may be the same or different from each other. The multi-layer fabric may be prepared by laminating multiple layers made of the above-mentioned materials.

[0098] The mask fabric can have a wide variety of shapes, depending on the use and the desired characteristics of the mask.

[0099] The mask fabric is typically designed to conform to the area of ​​skin to which topical application is desired. For example, when the mask is applied to the face, the mask fabric is designed to conform to the shape of the face, avoiding the eye, nostril, and mouth areas, if necessary. Preparation and Use

[0100] The composition according to the present invention can be produced by first forming the aqueous phase, then correcting the pH to 5.0 to 6.3, then adding the neutralized polyacrylic acid and then the acid fermentation extract, finally correcting the pH to 5.3 to 7.0.

[0101] The composition according to the present invention is intended for topical application and may in particular constitute a composition intended for the care of keratinous materials, and in particular human skin.

[0102] In particular, the composition according to the present invention can be used as an anti-aging agent.

[0103] According to the third aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic process for caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin, comprising the step of applying the composition or mask as defined above to the keratinous materials.

[0104] In particular, the keratinous materials are the skin of the face and / or the skin of the eyes.

[0105] The present invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples described below, which are given as non-limiting illustrations. Examples

[0106] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0107] [Tableauxl] INCI name Trade name Supplier Hydroxyacetophenone 4-HYDROXYACETOPHEN ONE YANTAI AURORA CHEMICAL Citric acid CITRIC ACID MO NOHYDRATE GRANULAR CITRIC BELGIAN Sodium polyacrylate COSMEDIA® SP BASF Xanthan gum XANTHAN GUM FNCS JUNGBUNZLAUER Sodium citrate TRISODIC CITRATE DIHYDRATE FINE F6000 JUNGBUNZLAUER Bifida ferment lysate REPAIR COMPLEX CLR PE-F CLR Dipotassium gly-cyrrhizate DIPOTASSIUM GLYCYR-RHIZINATE MARUZEN Trisodium ethyle-nediamine disuccinate NATRLQUEST E30 INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS Sodium phytate DERMOFEEL PA-3 DR STRAETMANS (EVONIK)

[0108] Examples of the invention 1 and 2 and comparative examples 1 to 3

[0109] Compositions according to the examples of the invention (El.) 1 and 2 and the comparative examples (EC.) 1 to 3 were prepared with the ingredients listed in table 2 (the contents are expressed as percentages by weight of active material relative to the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise indicated):

[0110] [T ables 2] Components ELI EC.l EC.2 EC.3 EI.2 Water QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 Glycerin 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 Citric Acid 0 0.203 0.203 0.23 0 Sodium Polyacrylate 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Xanthan Gum 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 Sodium Citrate 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.35 Bifida Ferment Lysate 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate 0 0.05 0.05 0.05 0 Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate 0 0 0.2 0.2 0 Sodium phytate 0 0.2 0 0 0 PH 6.0 5.1 5.1 5.0 6.3 Preparation procedure:

[0111] Each composition was prepared as follows, taking the composition of Invention Example 1 for illustration:

[0112] 1). Add water, and glycerin, to a mixer, heat to 70 C and stir to completely mix the above components;

[0113] 2). Add sodium citrate to the mixer to correct the pH to approxima tively 5.0 to 6.3; add sodium polyacrylate to the mixer and stir for 15 to 20 minutes to obtain a homogeneous solution while maintaining the temperature at 70C;

[0114] 3). add xanthan gum to the mixer while stirring; cool the system to room temperature; then add Bifida ferment lysate, stirring; and

[0115] 4). Correct the pH to approximately 6.0 with sodium citrate to obtain the composition. Assessment :

[0116] The compositions obtained above were evaluated as follows. Viscosity

[0117] The viscosity was measured at 25°C, using a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with an M2 spindle, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in the composition (time after which a stabilization of the viscosity and the rotation speed of the spindle is observed), at a shear rate of 200 rpm. min. Stability

[0118] Approximately 100 ml of samples were stored separately in clear glass bottles and then kept at different temperatures, including 4°C, room temperature (RT), 37°C, 45°C, and 55°C for different periods of time, consisting of the initial time (T0), 5 days, 10 days, 1 month, and 2 months. The appearance of the samples was observed at each time point. The sample was evaluated as having passed the test when it was uniform in color and odor, without delamination, and without apparent change in flow behavior.

[0119] If a sample can pass each of the individual tests, it passes the static stability test. If a sample fails at any time and at any temperature during the test, the sample is evaluated as a "static stability test failure."

[0120] The viscosity and stability results are summarized in Table 3.

[0121] [Tables3] Properties ELI EC.l EC.2 EC.3 EI.2 Viscosity (UD) 20 14 15 14 20 Stability Pass e Fail Fail Fail Pass Rheology test

[0122] The oscillation mode of the rheometer was used in the test and the spinner is CP-50. The frequency (f) was set from 1 Hz to 10 Hz. 2 to 3 drops of a sample were applied to the test plate of the rheometer. Then, the test temperature was set to 45°C or room temperature and held for 1 minute. The storage modulus and loss modulus of the sample were recorded.

[0123] [Fig. 1] shows the rheological behavior of each composition of Invention Example 1 and Comparative Example 1.

[0124] If the resulting plot shows a comparatively larger initial point, no intersection point or a redshifted intersection point of the two modules, and better linear behavior, then the sample has a more robust structure and therefore less risk of having a stability problem.

[0125] It is clear from [Fig.l] that the composition of the example of the invention is more stable.

Claims

Claims

1. A composition for caring for keratinous materials comprising in an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of Bifida ferment lysate; (ii) from 0.2% by weight to 0.4% by weight of sodium polyacrylate; and (iii) a pH correcting agent selected from sodium acetate, sodium citrate, sodium tartrate and a combination thereof, wherein the composition has a pH of 5.7 to 6.3 and a viscosity of 14 to 65 UD as determined with a Rheomat 100 Plus viscometer equipped with an M2 spindle at a shear rate of 200 rpm.

2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase comprises at least one of water, monoalcohols and at least one C2-C8 polyol.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, not comprising an oily phase.

4. A mask for caring for keratinous materials, comprising: A) a water-insoluble mask fabric, and B) a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 impregnated into the mask fabric.

5. The mask of claim 4, wherein the water-insoluble mask fabric is an alginate fabric comprising a water-insoluble alginate selected from calcium alginate, strontium alginate, zinc alginate, copper alginate, manganese alginate, or a mixture thereof, preferably calcium alginate, preferably in an amount ranging from 20 wt% to 100 wt%, preferably from 20 wt% to 50 wt%, based on the total weight of the fabric.

6. Cosmetic process for caring for keratinous materials, in particular human skin, comprising the step of applying the composition of any one of claims 1 to 3 or the mask of claim 4 or 5 to the keratinous materials.

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