COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE AMPS® COPOLYMER, AT LEAST ONE ALKYL POLYGLUCOSIDE, AT LEAST ONE UV FILTER AND ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE

The cosmetic composition with AMPS® copolymer, alkyl(poly)glycoside, and UV filter enhances sensory qualities by improving spreading and softness, addressing the issues of stickiness and texture in UV-protected cosmetic products.

FR3133311B1Active Publication Date: 2025-12-12LOREAL SA
View PDF 0 Cites 0 Cited by

Patent Information

Application Number
FR2022002122
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2022-03-10
Publication Date
2025-12-12
Estimated Expiration
2042-03-10

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing cosmetic compositions with UV filters impair sensory qualities such as texture and skin finish, making them less smooth and more sticky, which is undesirable for daily use and packaging in jars.

Method used

A cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase, oily phase, AMPS® copolymer, alkyl(poly)glycoside emulsifying system, UV filter, and isopropyl myristate, which improves spreading and softness while maintaining a non-sticky skin finish.

Benefits of technology

The composition provides a pleasant sensory experience with improved spreading and soft, non-sticky qualities, suitable for daily use and packaging in jars, while offering UV protection.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.
Patent Text Reader

Abstract

Title: COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE AMPS® COPOLYMER, AT LEAST ONE ALKYL(POLY)GLYCOSIDE, AT LEAST ONE UV FILTER AND ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition in the form of an emulsion comprising in a physiologically acceptable carrier at least one aqueous phase, at least one oily phase, at least one copolymer comprising at least one monomer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS®) and at least one monomer with a hydrophobic group, at least one emulsifying system comprising at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside, at least one UV filter, and isopropyl myristate.
Need to check novelty before this filing date? Find Prior Art

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE AMPS® COPOLYMER, AT LEAST ONE ALKYL(POLY)GLYCOSIDE, AT LEAST ONE UV FILTER AND ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition in the form of an emulsion comprising in a physiologically acceptable support at least one aqueous phase, at least one oily phase, at least one copolymer comprising at least one monomer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS®) and at least one monomer with a hydrophobic group, at least one emulsifying system comprising at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside, at least one UV filter, and isopropyl myristate. technical field

[0002] In the cosmetic field, more and more consumers are looking for cosmetic products not only intended for the care of keratinous materials, but also possessing a photoprotective activity of keratinous materials, while remaining very demanding in terms of sensory qualities and performance of these products.

[0003] It is indeed well known that light radiation with wavelengths between 280nm and 400nm causes browning of the human epidermis and that rays with wavelengths between 280 and 320nm, known as UV-B, cause erythema and skin burns; this UV-B radiation must therefore be filtered.

[0004] It is also known that UV-A rays, with wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm, which cause skin tanning, are likely to induce skin damage, particularly in the case of sensitive skin or skin continuously exposed to sunlight. UV-A rays specifically cause a loss of skin elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles, leading to premature aging. They promote the onset of the erythematous reaction or amplify this reaction in some individuals and can even cause phototoxic or photoallergic reactions. It is therefore advisable to also filter UV-A radiation.

[0005] UVA and UVB rays must therefore be filtered and there are currently cosmetic compositions that protect the human epidermis and contain UVA and UVB filters.

[0006] Keratin treatment compositions comprising at least one UVA and / or UVB filter are generally in the form of an emulsion, of the type oil-in-water (i.e. a cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable carrier consisting of a continuous aqueous dispersing phase and a discontinuous dispersed oily phase) or water-in-oil (aqueous phase dispersed in a continuous oily phase), which contains, at various concentrations, one or more conventional liposoluble organic filters and / or conventional water-soluble organic filters capable of selectively absorbing harmful UV radiation, these filters (and their quantities) being selected according to the desired sun protection factor, the sun protection factor (SPF) being mathematically expressed by the ratio of the dose of UV radiation necessary to reach the erythematogenic threshold with the UV filter to the dose of UV radiation necessary to reach the erythematogenic threshold without a UV filter.In such emulsions, hydrophilic filters are present in the aqueous phase and lipophilic filters are present in the oily phase. Multiple emulsions also exist, obtained after dispersing an inverse emulsion in an aqueous phase.

[0007] The use of certain organic filters in these keratin-based skincare emulsions tends to impair their sensory qualities, both when the composition sets in the jar (when the formulas are packaged in this way) and when applied to the skin. Thus, the presence of organic UV filters leads, in particular, to less smooth application and a greater transformation of the texture into an oil. Furthermore, the skin finish is also altered by the presence of such filters, resulting in formulas that are more waxy (with a rougher skin finish) and more sticky (with a stickier skin finish).

[0008] The object of the present invention is therefore to have a specific combination of raw materials allowing the formulation of care compositions for keratinous materials in the form of emulsions with the implementation of UV filters, in particular organic ones, without the disadvantages stated above.

[0009] This need is all the more pressing given the rapid expansion of the daily sun protection market. An increasing number of hybrid products offering both skincare and SPF 15-20 protection are being launched, but the challenge remains of providing a pleasant sensory experience for daily application. The skincare sector remains very different from the sun protection sector in terms of consumer experience, particularly with products sold in jars, which increases the complexity of formulation development.

[0010] We therefore seek to have a product with SPF while retaining the sensory codes of skin care: Appearance, texture, consistency, sensory.

[0011] In other words, the aim of the invention is to develop a product with an appealing sensory experience, in particular with a soft, non-sticky skin finish and good spreading properties (glide and limited oil transformation), allowing for a photo daily protection and which can be marketed in packaging classically used in the field of skin care, including a formulation in a jar.

[0012] The present invention is specifically designed to meet these needs. Description of the invention

[0013] The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition in the form of an emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable carrier:

[0014] a) at least one aqueous phase

[0015] b) at least one oily phase

[0016] c) at least one copolymer comprising at least one monomer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS®) and at least one monomer with a hydrophobic group, the monomer with a hydrophobic group of formula (II) being ethoxylated stearyl methacrylate (25OE) corresponding to the compound of formula (II):

[0017] in which the Ri group represents a methyl group, the Y group designates O, the R2 group represents an alkyl radical comprising 18 carbon atoms and x is equal to 25

[0018] d) at least one emulsifying system comprising at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside.

[0019] e) at least one UV filter, and

[0020] f) of isopropyl myristate.

[0021] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratinous materials in which a composition as defined above is applied to said keratinous materials.

[0022] The invention also relates to the use of a composition as defined above for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous materials.

[0023] Contrary to expectations, the inventors found that an emulsion composition comprising at least one AMPS® copolymer in association with at least one emulsifying system comprising at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside, at least one UV filter and isopropyl myristate has improved spreading, softness to the touch and / or non-sticky qualities.

[0024] The invention is not limited to the illustrated examples. The features of the different examples can, in particular, be combined within non-illustrated variants.

[0025] The expression "comprising one" should be understood as meaning "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0026] The expressions "at least one" and "at least" used in this description are respectively equivalent to the expressions "one or more" and "greater than or equal to".

[0027] By "keratinous materials" according to the invention, we mean the skin of the body, face and / or around the eyes, the lips, nails, mucous membranes, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, scalp and / or head hair, or any other cutaneous area of ​​the body. More particularly, the keratinous materials according to the invention are the scalp, the hair, and / or the skin.

[0028] Preferably, the keratinous materials according to the invention are skin.

[0029] By "skin" we mean the entire skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, décolletage, neck, arms and forearms, or even more preferably the skin of the face, in particular the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin, eye contour.

[0030] By "copolymer" we mean both copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers and those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.

[0031] For the purposes of the present invention, the following definitions apply:

[0032] - "SP F" (Sun Protection Factor in English): the sun protection factor, which measures the level of protection against UVB rays. The SPF value corresponds to the ratio between the minimum time it takes to get a sunburn with a sunscreen and that without the product. More precisely, the term "SPF" is defined in the article "A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum," J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133 (May / June 1989).

[0033] The SPF (Sun Protection Factor) can be evaluated in vitro using the Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material onto which the sunscreen composition is applied. For this protocol, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) plates have proven ideal.

[0034] The evaluation of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of the compositions can also be carried out in-vivo according to the ISO / EN 24444 protocol “Cosmetics-Sun protection test methods: In-vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) (2010)”.

[0035] - "PPD" (Persistent Pigment Darkening): the index characterizing UVA protection. In particular, the "PPD" measures skin color observed 2 to 4 hours after UVA exposure. This method has been adopted since 1996 by the Japanese Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA) as the official testing procedure for UVA labeling of products and is frequently used by testing laboratories in Europe and the United States; (Japan Cosmetic Industry Association Technical Bulletin. Measurement Standards for UVA protection efficacy. Issued November 21, 1995 and effective of January 1, 1996).

[0036] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for the treatment of keratinous materials such as skin. AMPS® Copolymer

[0037] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one copolymer comprising at least one monomer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS®) and at least one monomer with a hydrophobic group.

[0038] By hydrophobic group, we mean in the context of the present invention a hydrocarbon fatty chain comprising 6 to 50 carbon atoms, branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0039] The copolymer(s) of AMPS® may be crosslinked. When crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be chosen from among the olefinic polyunsaturates commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

[0040] A cross-linked copolymer is understood to be a non-linear copolymer in the form of a three-dimensional network insoluble in water but swellable in water and leading to the formation of a chemical gel.

[0041] The crosslinking agent is particularly selected from ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, tetraallyloxyethane, ethylene glycol diacrylate, diallyl urea, triallyl amine, trimethylol propane triacrylate, or methylene-bis(acrylamide), or a mixture of these compounds. Preferably, the crosslinking agent is trimethylol propane triacrylate.

[0042] Preferably, the copolymer(s) of AMPS® are crosslinked by a crosslinking agent, preferably, trimethylol propane triacrylate.

[0043] The 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid monomer(s) of the copolymer contained in the composition according to the invention are in free form or are neutralized partially or totally by a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di-, or tri-ethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, as well as a mixture of these compounds.

[0044] In the application, the monomers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS®) preferably conform to the following general formula (I):

[0045] [Chem.l] (I)

[0046] In which X+ denotes a cationic counterion, in particular an alkali or alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium, preferably ammonium, or a mixture of cations; Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical, linear or branched in Ci-C6 such as methyl, preferably RI denotes a hydrogen atom.

[0047] Preferably, the monomer(s) of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid according to the invention are partially or totally salified in the form of an ammonium salt.

[0048] More preferably, the monomer(s) of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid according to the invention are totally salified, preferably in the form of an ammonium salt.

[0049] The copolymer(s) of AMPS® comprise at least one hydrophobic monomer, which is preferably an ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one hydrocarbon fatty chain portion comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 22 and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0050] This hydrophobic monomer with ethylenic unsaturation is preferably chosen from acrylates or acrylamides of formula (II):

[0051] [Chem.2] (II)

[0052] in which Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical, linear or branched in Ci-C6, preferably methyl; Y denotes O or NH; R2 denotes a hydrophobic hydrocarbon radical comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms and more preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms and even more preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; x denotes a number from 0 to 100.

[0053] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, in formula (II), Y denotes an oxygen atom.

[0054] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, in formula (II), the Ri group represents a methyl.

[0055] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, x represents an integer between 3 and 25.

[0056] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, in formula (II), the group R2 represents an alkyl radical comprising 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0057] According to an even more preferred embodiment of the invention, in formula (II), Y denotes an oxygen atom, the Ri group represents a methyl, the R2 group represents an alkyl radical comprising 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and x represents an integer between 3 and 25.

[0058] Preferably, the hydrophobic monomer of formula (II) is ethoxylated stearyl methacrylate (25OE) corresponding to the compound of formula (II) in which the Ri group represents a methyl, the Y group designates O, the R2 group represents an alkyl radical comprising 18 carbon atoms and x is equal to 25.

[0059] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic group monomer of formula (II) is tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate (4OE), corresponding to the compound of formula (II) in which the Ri group represents a methyl, the Y group designates O, the R2 group represents an alkyl radical comprising 12 carbon atoms and x is equal to 4.

[0060] In this embodiment, the monomer with hydrophobic group is preferably tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate.

[0061] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the AMPS® copolymer may comprise at least one monomer of formula (II) in which x is equal to 0, with preferably Y designating an oxygen atom, the RI group representing a methyl, the R2 group representing an alkyl radical comprising 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0062] In this embodiment, the monomer with hydrophobic group is preferably lauryl methacrylate.

[0063] According to another particular embodiment, the AMPS® copolymer comprises at least one monomer of formula (II) in which x is equal to 0, with preferably Y denoting an oxygen atom, the Ri group representing a methyl, the R2 group representing an alkyl radical comprising 12 to 18 carbon atoms and at least one monomer of formula (II) in which Y denotes an oxygen atom, the Ri group representing a methyl, the R2 group representing an alkyl radical comprising 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and x represents an integer between 3 and 25, preferably x is equal to 4.

[0064] In this embodiment, the AMPS® copolymer preferably comprises, as hydrophobic monomers, lauryl methacrylate and me- tetraethoxylated lauryl thacrylate.

[0065] Preferably, the monomer with hydrophobic group is ethoxylated stearyl methacrylate (25 OE).

[0066] According to a particular embodiment, the AMPS® copolymer may further comprise at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer not comprising a hydrophobic group, preferably conforming to the following general formula (III):

[0067] [Chem.3] FL (III)

[0068] in which Ri designates a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical, linear or branched in Ci-C4, preferably Ri designates a hydrogen atom, R2 designates a linear or branched alkyl radical in Ci-C4 and R3 designates a linear or branched alkyl radical in Ci-C4, preferably R2 and R3 designate a methyl.

[0069] The monomer with ethylenic unsaturation not comprising a hydrophobic group is chosen from (meth)acrylamides such as acrylamide, (meth)acrylic acids and their esters ((meth)acrylates) such as (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate, vinyl pyrrolidone, N-(Ci-C4)alkylacrylamides, N,N-di(Ci-C4)alkylacrylamide such as N,N-dimethyl acrylamide.

[0070] In this embodiment, the monomer with ethylenic unsaturation not comprising a hydrophobic group is preferably N,N-dimethyl acrylamide.

[0071] Preferably, the AMPS® copolymer is a copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, preferably fully salified, preferably in the form of an ammonium salt, and ethoxylated stearyl methacrylate (25OE).

[0072] One can cite as an example of AMPS® copolymer the copolymer marketed under the reference Aristoflex HMS by the company Clariant, with INCI name Ammonium acryoyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer.

[0073] The copolymer(s) of AMPS® described above may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight and even more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Emulsifying system

[0074] The composition according to the invention comprises an emulsifying system comprising at minus one alkyl(poly)glycoside.

[0075] The term "emulsifying system" means a system capable of forming an emulsion comprising surfactants.

[0076] For the purposes of the present invention, "alkyl(poly)glycoside" means an alkyl monooside (degree of polymerization 1) or alkyl polyoside (degree of polymerization greater than 1).

[0077] The alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) can be used alone or in the form of mixtures of several alkyl(poly)glycosides. They generally conform to the following formula (IV):

[0078] [Chem.4] RiO-(GL (IV)

[0079] in which: - the radical Ri designates a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 22, and even more preferably 12 to 20; - Group G is a saccharide remnant; - a is a number from 1 to 10.

[0080] Examples of alkyl(poly)glycosides include decyl glucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Mydol 10® by Kao Chemicals, or the product marketed under the name Plantacare 2000 UP® by Henkel, or the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10® by SEPPIC; caprylyl / capryl glucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare KE 3711® by Cognis or ORAMIX CG 110® by SEPPIC; lauryl glucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 1200 UP® by Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N® by Henkel;cetearyl glucoside, possibly in a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for example under the name MONTANOV 68 by Seppic, under the name TEGO Care CG90 by Evonik Goldschmidt, and under the names EMULGADE PL1618 or EMULGADE KE 3302 by Cognis; arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and arachidyl glucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV 202 by Seppic; cocoglucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 818 UP® by Henkel; or the product in the form of a mixture of cocoyl polyglucoside and cetyl and stearyl alcohols (35 / 65) marketed under the name MONTANOV 82 by Seppic; methyl; coco glucoside marketed under the name Eumulgin GTS by the company Cognis; octyldodecyl xyloside marketed for example under the names FLUIDANOV 20X or EASYNOV by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 810 UP® by the company Cognis; and their mixtures.

[0081] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the radical Ri designates a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 22, and even more preferably 12 to 20.

[0082] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, (G)a is a glucoside group comprising 1 to 5, in particular 1.2 to 3 glucoside units.

[0083] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) correspond to the following formula (V):

[0084] [Chem.5] RCHGh (V)

[0085] in which: - the radical R designates a linear or branched alkyl radical containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms; - the G group is a saccharide remnant; - x varies from 1 to 5, preferably from 1.05 to 2.5, and even more preferably from 1.1 to 2.

[0086] The remaining saccharide can be selected from glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucan, cellulose, starch and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the remaining saccharide is glucose.

[0087] It should also be noted that each unit of the polyoside portion of the alkyl(poly)glycoside can be in isomeric form a or [3, in L or D form and the configuration of the remainder saccharide can be of the furanoside or pyranoside type.

[0088] It is of course possible to use mixtures of alkyl polyosides, which may differ from one another by the nature of the alkyl motif carried and / or the nature of the carrier polyoside chain.

[0089] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the alkyl(poly)glycoside can be used in a mixture with at least one fatty alcohol, in particular a fatty alcohol having 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and more particularly 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0090] Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous, according to the present invention, to jointly implement a fatty alcohol and an alkyl(poly)glycoside whose alkyl part is identical to that of the retained fatty alcohol.

[0091] Fatty alcohol / alkyl(poly)glycoside emulsifying mixtures as defined below above are known as such. They are described in particular in applications WO 92 / 06778, WO 95 / 13863 and WO 98 / 47610 and prepared according to the preparation processes indicated in these documents.

[0092] Among the particularly preferred fatty alcohol / alkyl(poly)glycoside mixtures, we can mention the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names MONTANOV® such as the following mixtures: - Cetylstearyl alcohol / Cocoglucoside - MONTANOV 82®, - Arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol / arachidylglucoside - MONTANOV 202®, - Myristyl alcohol / Myristylglucoside MONTANOV 14®, - Cetylstearyl alcohol / Cetylstearylglucoside - MONTANOV 68® - C14-C22 / C12-C20 alkylglucoside alcohol MONTANOV L® - Cocoalcoholic / Coco-glucoside MONTANOV S® - Isostearyl alcohol / Isostearyl glucoside MONTANOV WO 18®.

[0093] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside or alkyl(poly)glycoside used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from cetylstearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside and mixtures thereof.

[0094] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside or alkyl(poly)glycoside used in the composition according to the invention are used in the form of a mixture with a fatty alcohol selected from cetostearyl alcohol (also called cetearyl alcohol), arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0095] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside or alkyl(poly)glycoside are chosen from the mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol / arachidylglucoside, the mixture of cetyl-stearyl alcohol / cetylstearylglucoside and mixtures thereof.

[0096] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises an emulsifying system comprising at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside selected from the mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol / arachidylglucoside, the mixture of cetyl-stearyl alcohol / cetylstearylglucoside and mixtures thereof.

[0097] One can cite the cetostearyl alcohol / cetylstearylglucoside mixture, marketed by the company SEPPIC under the name MONTANOV 68®, consisting of about 20% cetostearyl glucoside and about 80% cetostearyl alcohol.

[0098] We can also mention the mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol / arachidylglucoside marketed by the company SEPPIC under the name MONTANOV 202®.

[0099] The alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. UV filters Organic UV filters

[0100] The compositions according to the invention contain one or more organic UV filters. These can be selected from hydrophilic organic UV filters, lipophilic organic UV filters, and insoluble organic UV filters.

[0101] By "hydrophilic UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound that filters UV radiation and is capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.

[0102] By “lipophilic filter” is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound that filters UV radiation and is capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid oil phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid oil phase.

[0103] By "insoluble UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound that filters UV radiation and has a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in most organic solvents such as paraffin oil, fatty alcohol benzoates, and fatty acid triglycerides, for example, Miglyol 812® marketed by DYNAMIT NOBEL. This solubility, measured at 70 °C, is defined as the amount of product dissolved in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of suspended solids after returning to room temperature. It can easily be evaluated in the laboratory.

[0104] By "organic UVA filter" is meant any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing at least UVA radiation in the wavelength range between 320 and 400 nm; said molecule also being able to absorb UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

[0105] By "organic UVB filter" is meant any organic chemical molecule capable of exclusively absorbing UVB radiation in the range of wavelengths between 280 and 320 nm.

[0106] Organic UV filters are selected in particular from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; [3,[3-diphenylacrylate] compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, in particular those cited in US patent 5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic compounds (PABA); methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds as described in applications US 5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO-93 / 04665; α-alkylstyrene derived dimers such as those described in patent application DE19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds as described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EPI 133980 and EPI33981 and mixtures thereof.

[0107] Examples of organic photoprotective agents include those designated below by their INCI name.

[0108] Cinnamic compounds:

[0109] Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold notably under the trade name PARSOL MCX ® by DSM Nutritial Products,

[0110] Isopropyl Methoxycinnamate,

[0111] Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 ® by Symrise,

[0112] DEA Methoxycinnamate,

[0113] Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate,

[0114] Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate.

[0115] Dibenzoylmethane compounds:

[0116] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold notably under the trade name PARSOL 1789 ® by DSM Nutritial Products,

[0117] Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane.

[0118] Para-aminobenzoic compounds:

[0119] PABA,

[0120] Ethyl PABA,

[0121] Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA,

[0122] Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold notably under the name “ESCALOL 507®” by ISP,

[0123] Glyceryl PABA,

[0124] PEG-25 PABA sold under the name “UVINUL P 25®” by BASF.

[0125] Salicylic compounds:

[0126] Homosalate sold under the name “Eusolex HMS®” by Rona / EM Industries,

[0127] Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name “NEO HELIOPAN OS®” by Symrise,

[0128] Dipropyleneglycol Salicylate sold under the name “DIPSAL ®” by SCHER,

[0129] TEA Salicylate, sold under the name “NEO HELIOPAN TS®” by Symrise.

[0130] Compounds [3.[3-diphenylacrylate:

[0131] Octocrylene sold notably under the trade name "UVINUL N 539®" by BASF,

[0132] Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL N 35®” by BASF.

[0133] Benzophenone compounds:

[0134] Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name "UVINUL 400®" by BASF,

[0135] Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name "UVINUL D 50®" by BASF,

[0136] Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name “UVINUL M 40®” by BASF,

[0137] Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name "UVINUL MS 40®" by BASF,

[0138] Benzophenone-5,

[0139] Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name “Helisorb 11®” by Norquay,

[0140] Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24®" by American Cyanamid

[0141] Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name* UVINUL DS 49® by BASF,

[0142] Benzophenone-12,

[0143] n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate sold under the trade name "UVINUL A Plus ®" or in mixture with octylmethoxycinnamate under the trade name "UVINUL A Plus B®" by BASF,

[0144] 1,1' -(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis [1 - [2- [4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-meth anone (CAS 919803-06-8) as described in application WO2007 / 071584; this compound being advantageously used in micronized form (average size of 0.02 to 2 pm) which can be obtained for example by the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in aqueous dispersion form.

[0145] Benzvlidene camphor compounds:

[0146] 3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SD®" by CHIMEX,

[0147] 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name "EUSOLEX 6300®" by MERCK,

[0148] Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SL®” by CHIMEX,

[0149] Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SO®” by CHIMEX,

[0150] Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SX®” by CHIMEX,

[0151] Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name “MEXORYL SW®” by CHIMEX.

[0152] Phenyl benzimidazole compounds:

[0153] Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name “EUSOLEX 232®” by MERCK.

[0154] Bis-benzoazole compounds:

[0155] Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate sold under the trade name “NEO HELIOPAN AP®” by Haarmann and REIMER.

[0156] Phenyl benzotriazole compounds:

[0157] Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name “Silatrizole®” by RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0158] Methylene bis-(hvdroxvphenvl benzotriazole) compounds:

[0159] Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, in particular in solid form as the product sold under the trade name "MIXXIM BB / 100 ®" by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL, or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 pm and more preferably from 0.01 to 2 pm and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 pm, with at least one alkyl polyglycoside surfactant of the structure CnH2n+iO(C6HiO5)xH, in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C6HiO5) and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6, as described in patent GB-A-2 303 549, in particular sold under the trade name "TINOSORB M®" by BASF, or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size that varies from 0.02 to 2 pm and more preferentially from 0.01 to 1.5 pm and more particularly from 0,02 to 1 pm in the presence of at least one mono-(C8-C20)alkyl-ester of polyglycerol having a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5 such as the aqueous dispersions described in application WO2009 / 063392.

[0160] Triazine compounds:

[0161] - 3,3'-(l,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-l,2,4-triazine), INCI name Phenylene Bis-Diphenyl triazine, with the following chemical formula:

[0162] [Chem.l]

[0163] - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name “TINOSORB S®” by BASF,

[0164] - Ethylhexyl Triazone sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL T 150® » by BASF,

[0165] - Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name "UVASORB HEB ®» by SIGMA 3V,

[0166] - dineopentyl 2,4,6-tris-(4'-amino benzalmalonate)-s-triazine,

[0167] - diisobutyl 2,4,6-tris-(4'-amino benzalmalonate)-s-triazine,

[0168] - n-butyl 2,4-bis-(4'-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine,

[0169] - the 2,4-bis-(4'-aminobenzalmalonate of dineopentyl)-6-(4'-aminobenzoate of n- butyl)-s-triazine,

[0170] - symmetric triazine filters substituted by naphthalenyl groups or Polyphenyl groups described in US patent 6,225,467, application WO2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9), or the document "Symetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM Journal, INC WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20, 2004), notably 2,4,6-tris(di-phenyl)-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)-triazine, which is included in patent applications WO06 / 035000, WO06 / 034982, WO06 / 034991, WO06 / 035007, WO2006 / 034992, WO2006 / 034985, these compounds being advantageously used in micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 pm) which can be obtained, for example, according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119, and in particular in aqueous dispersion form,

[0171] - triazine silicones substituted with two aminobenzoate groups such as described that patent EP0841341 in particular 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{ l,3,3,3-tetramethyl-l-[(trimethyl-isyl-ioxy]-disiloxane]propyl)amino]-s-triazine.

[0172] Anthranilic compounds:

[0173] Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name “NEO HELIOPAN MA®” by Symrise.

[0174] Imidazoline compounds:

[0175] Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate.

[0176] Benzalmalonate compounds:

[0177] Benzalmalonate-function polyorganosiloxane such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name "PARSOL SLX ®" by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE.

[0178] 4,4-Diarylbutadiene Compounds:

[0179] 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethyl-propyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.

[0180] Benzoxazole compounds:

[0181] 2,4-bis-[5-1 (dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino] -6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imi no-l,3,5-triazine vendu sous le nom d’Uvasorb K2A® par Sigma 3V.

[0182] Les filtres organiques préférentiels sont choisis parmi :

[0183] Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate,

[0184] Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

[0185] Homosalate,

[0186] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

[0187] Octocrylene,

[0188] Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,

[0189] Benzophenone-3,

[0190] Benzophenone-4,

[0191] Benzophenone-5,

[0192] 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate de n-hexyle,

[0193] 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor,

[0194] Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,

[0195] Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate,

[0196] Méthylène bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphénol,

[0197] Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

[0198] Ethylhexyl Triazone,

[0199] Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,

[0200] 2,4,6-tris-(4’-amino benzalmalonate de dinéopentyle)-s-triazine,

[0201] 2,4,6-tris-(4’-amino benzalmalonate de diisobutyle)-s- triazine,

[0202] 2,4-bis-(4’-aminobenzoate de n-butyle)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine,

[0203] 2,4-bis-(4’-aminobenzalmalonate de dinéopentyle)-6-(4’-aminobenzoate de n- butyle)-s-triazine,

[0204] 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{ l,3,3,3-tetramethyl-l-[(trimethylsilyl-oxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine,

[0205] 2,4,6-tris-(di-phenyl)-triazine,

[0206] 2,4,6-tris-(ter-phenyl)-triazine

[0207] Drometrizole Trisiloxane,

[0208] Polysilicone-15,

[0209] 1,1 -dicarboxy (2,2’ -diméthyl-propyl)-4,4-diphénylbutadiène,

[0210] 2,4-bis-[5-l(diméthylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imi no-l,3,5-triazine,

[0211] et leurs mélanges.

[0212] Les filtres organiques particulièrement préférés sont choisis parmi :

[0213] Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

[0214] Homosalate,

[0215] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

[0216] Octocrylene,

[0217] 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate de n-hexyle,

[0218] Phenylbenzimidazole S ulfonic Acid,

[0219] Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,

[0220] Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,

[0221] Ethylhexyl Triazone,

[0222] Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,

[0223] 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{ l,3,3,3-tetramethyl-l-[(trimethylsilyl-oxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine,

[0224] Drometrizole Trisiloxane,

[0225] and their mixtures.

[0226] According to a preferred embodiment, the organic UV filters are selected from:

[0227] Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

[0228] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

[0229] Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,

[0230] Ethylhexyl Triazone,

[0231] Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,

[0232] and mixtures thereof.

[0233] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is free of octocrylene. "Free of octocrylene" means a composition containing less than 1% by weight, or even less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of octocrylene. Octocrylene has been used in the past both as a sunscreen and as a solvent to improve the solubility of other sunscreens such as triazine derivatives, thereby reducing the stickiness of compositions containing such filters. However, there is a consumer expectation for cosmetic compositions containing sunscreens that have a pleasant sensory experience, are non-sticky, but are free of octocrylene.

[0234] Organic UV filters may be present in the composition according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.05% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional UV filters

[0235] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one inorganic UV filter.

[0236] The inorganic UV filters used according to the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size less than or equal to 0.5 pm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 pm, and even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 pm, even better between 0.01 and 0.1 pm, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 pm.

[0237] They may be selected in particular from titanium, zinc, iron, oxides, zirconium, cerium or mixtures thereof.

[0238] Such metallic oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments, mention may be made of the products sold by the companies SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS, TAYCA, MERCK and DEGUSSA.

[0239] Metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.

[0240] Coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

[0241] The coated pigments are more particularly coated titanium oxides:

[0242] - of silica such as the “SUNVEIL®” products from the company IKEDA, “SUNSIL TIN 50" from SUNJIN BEAUTY SCIENCE,

[0243] - of silica and iron oxide such as the product “SUNVEIL F®” from the company IKEDA,

[0244] - of silica and alumina such as the products “MICROTTANIAIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SA® and MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SA from the company TAYCA, and TIOVEIL from the company TIOXIDE,

[0245] - of alumina such as the products “TIPAQUE TTO-55 (B)®” and “TIPAQUE TTO- 55 (A)® » from ISHIHARA, and «UVT 14 / 4» from SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS,

[0246] - of alumina and aluminium stearate such as the products “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 T®, MT 100 TX®, MT 100 Z®, MT-01® from TAYCA, the products "Solaveil CT-10 W®" and "Solaveil CT 100®" from UNIQEMA and the product "Eusolex T-AVO®" from MERCK,

[0247] - of silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product “MT-100 AQ®” of the TAYCA company,

[0248] - of alumina and aluminium laurate such as the product “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 S® from the company TAYCA,

[0249] - of iron oxide and iron stearate such as the product “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 F® from the company TAYCA,

[0250] - of zinc oxide and zinc stearate such as the product "BR 351®" of the company TAYCA,

[0251] - of silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 600 SAS®”, “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SAS® or MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SAS® from the company TAYCA,

[0252] - of silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone such as the product “STT-30-DS®” from the company TITAN KOGYO,

[0253] - of silica and treated with a silicone such as the product "UV-TITAN X 195®" of the SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS company,

[0254] - of alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (S)® from ISHIHARA, or UV TITAN M 262® from SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS,

[0255] - of triethanolamine such as the product "STT-65-S" from the company TITAN KOGYO,

[0256] - stearic acid such as the product "TIPAQUE TTO-55" from the company ISHIHARA,

[0257] - of sodium hexametaphosphate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 150 W®" from the company TAYCA,

[0258] - TiO2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane sold under the trade name “T 805®” by the company DEGUSSA SILICES,

[0259] - TiO2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane sold under the name com Commercial product "70250 Cardre UF TiO2SI3®" by the company CARDRE,

[0260] - the anatase / rutile TiO2 treated with a polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane sold under the trade name "MICRO TITANIUM DIOXIDE USP GRADE HY-DROPHOBIC®" by the company COLOR TECHNIQUES,

[0261] - TiO2 coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminium stearate, alumina sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-200-LQ-(WD) by CRODA,

[0262] - TiO2 coated with aluminium stearate, alumina and silicone sold under the name commercial nominationSolaveil CT-12W-LQ-(WD from CRODA),

[0263] - lauroyl lysine coated TiO2 sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the denomination mination LL 5 Titanium Dioxide CR 50,

[0264] - TiO2 coated with C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate and aluminium hydroxide sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name PFX-5 TiO2 CR-50.

[0265] Also citeable are TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc, manganese, and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably selected from triglycerides, including those of capric / caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium dioxide particles may further comprise one or more dispersing agents such as, for example, a sorbitan ester like sorbitan isostearate, a polyoxyalkylated fatty acid and glycerol ester such as TRLPPG3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE. Preferably, the oily dispersion titanium dioxide particles comprise at least one dispersing agent selected from fatty acid and polyoxyalkylated glycerol esters. A particular example is the oily dispersion of manganese-doped TiO2 particles in capric / caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3-POLYRICINOLEATE and SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE, with the INCI name: TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 RICINOLEATE (and) SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE, such as the product sold under the trade name OPTISOL TD50 ® by the company CRODA.

[0266] Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are, for example, sold by TAYCA under the trade names "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 B" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT600 B®", by DEGUSSA under the name "P 25", by WACKHER under the name "Transparent Titanium Oxide PW®", by MIYOSHI KASEI under the name "UFTR®", by TOMEN under the name "ITS®" and by TIOXIDE under the name "TIOVEIL AQ".

[0267] Uncoated zinc oxide pigments include, for example:

[0268] - those marketed under the name "Z-cote" by the company Sunsmart;

[0269] - those marketed under the name "Nanox®" by the company Elementis;

[0270] - those marketed under the name "Nanogard WCD 2025®" by the company Nanophase Technologies.

[0271] Coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:

[0272] - those marketed under the name "Zinc Oxide CS5®" by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenesiloxane);

[0273] - those marketed under the name "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN®" by the Nanophase Technologies company (in 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN®, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate);

[0274] - those marketed under the names "DAITOPERSION Zn-30®" and "DAL TOPERSION Zn-50®" by the company Daito (dispersions in cyclopolymethylsiloxane / oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane, containing 30% or 50% zinc oxides coated by silica and polymethylhydrogensiloxane);

[0275] - those marketed under the name "NFD Ultrafine ZnO®" by the company Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and perfluoroalkylethyl copolymer dispersed in cyclopentasiloxane);

[0276] - those marketed under the name "SPD-Z1®" by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethyl-siloxane);

[0277] - those marketed under the name "Escalol Z100®" by the company ISP (ZnO treated with alumina and dispersed in the mixture of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexadecene copolymer / methicone);

[0278] - those marketed under the name "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10®" by Fuji Company Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane);

[0279] - those marketed under the name "Nanox Gel TN®" by the company Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C12-C15 alcohol benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate).

[0280] Uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name "COLLOIDAL CERIUM OXIDE®" by the company RHONE POULENC.

[0281] Uncoated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by the company ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2002® (FE 45B®)", "NANOGARD IRON FE 45 BL AQ", "NANOGARD FE 45R AQ®, "NANOGARD WCD 2006 ® (FE 45R®)", or by the company MITSUBISHI under the name "TY-220®".

[0282] Coated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by the company ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)®", "NANOGARD WCD 2009® (FE 45B 556®)", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL 345®", "NANOGARD FE 45 B »L®", or by the company BASF under the name "OXIDE DE FER TRANSPARENT®".

[0283] We can also mention mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the equal weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, sold by the company IKEDA under the name "SUNVEIL A®", as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone such as the product "M 261®" sold by the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin such as the product "M 211®" sold by the company SACHTLEBEN PIGMENTS.

[0284] According to the invention, titanium oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are particularly preferred.

[0285] When present in the composition according to the invention, the mineral UV filters are advantageously present at a content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0286] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.

[0287] The aqueous phase contains water, and possibly other organic solvents soluble or miscible in water.

[0288] An aqueous phase suitable for the invention may include, for example, water chosen from a natural spring water, such as La Roche-Posay water, Vittel water, Saint Gervais Mont Blanc water, or Vichy waters, or a floral water.

[0289] Water-soluble or miscible solvents suitable for the invention include, in addition to short-chain alcohols, diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol, and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

[0290] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an amount of glycerin less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0291] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the overall aqueous phase, including all hydrophilic substances of the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, represents from 20 to 95% by weight, and preferably from 30 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Oily phase

[0292] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one oily phase.

[0293] For the purposes of the invention, the term "oily phase" means a phase comprising at less an oil and all the liposoluble and lipophilic ingredients and fatty substances used for the formulation of the compositions of the invention.

[0294] Oil means any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20-25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

[0295] The oily phase may include, in addition to the lipophilic filter(s) and the fatty alcohol(s) according to the invention, at least one volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and / or a volatile and / or non-volatile silicone oil and / or a volatile and / or non-volatile fluorinated oil.

[0296] For the purposes of the present invention, "siliconized oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0297] The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen. Thus, these oils may notably contain one or more carboxy, ester, ether, or hydroxy functions.

[0298] The term “fluoridated oil” means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

[0299] For the purposes of this invention, "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporate upon contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10³ to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm of Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm of Hg).

[0300] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 103 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0301] Examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used according to the invention include:

[0302] (i) vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as glyceride triesters which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol whose fatty acids can have varying chain lengths from C4 to C24, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, squash oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, rosehip oil; or even the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéa-rineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel;

[0303] (ii) synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

[0304] (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such Vaseline, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as paream, squalane, and mixtures thereof;

[0305] (iv) synthetic esters such as oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a branched one, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R + R' is > 10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates such as the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN®" or "Witconol TN®" by WITCO or "TEGOSOFT TN®" by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate such as the commercial product sold under the name "X-TEND 226®" by ISP, lanolate isopropyl, hexyl laurate, dii-sopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate,diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name "Dub Dis" by the company Stearinerie Dubois, isopropyl isostearate such as the product sold under the name Jolee 7739 by the company OLEON; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or po-, lyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates such as linear C12-C13 dialkyl tartrates like those sold under the name COSMACOL ETI® by ENICHEM AUGUSTA INDUSTRIALE and linear C14-C15 dialkyl tartrates like those sold under the name COSMACOL ETL® by the same company; acetates;

[0306] (v) fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and have a branched carbon chain and / or unsaturated having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol;

[0307] (vi) higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid;

[0308] (vii) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate such as the product sold under the name "Cetiol CC®" by the company Cognis;

[0309] and their mixtures.

[0310] Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils usable according to the invention, glyceride triesters, and in particular caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters, and in particular isopropyl isostearate, diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, in particular octyldodecanol, will be preferred more particularly.

[0311] Examples of usable volatile hydrocarbon oils according to the invention include hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-Ci6 branched alkanes such as petroleum-derived C8-Ci6 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, C8-Ci6 branched esters, isohexyl neo-pentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0312] Also citeable are the alkanes described in Cognis patent applications WO 2007 / 068371 and WO 2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon atom). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves derived from coconut or palm oil. Examples include the mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Cognis application WO 2008 / 155059. Also citeable are n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97®, respectively, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0313] Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular Those sold under the name Shell Soit® by the company SHELL can also be used. According to one embodiment, the volatile solvent is chosen from among volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

[0314] Non-volatile silicone oils may be chosen in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes having alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, each group having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicas.

[0315] Examples of volatile silicone oils include, for instance, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, particularly those with a viscosity < 8 centistokes (8 x 10⁶ m² / s), and having, in particular, 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Examples of volatile silicone oils usable in the invention include, in particular, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0316] One can also mention volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils of the following formula:

[0317] [Chem.8] CH ; ' L C1g îq. —™ 0 gg [CH ) \ ' | X 77 R

[0318] where R represents an alkyl group comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms and of which one or more hydrogen atoms may be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom.

[0319] Among the formula 8 oils, we can mention:

[0320] 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane,

[0321] 3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, and

[0322] 3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane,

[0323] corresponding to formula 8 oils for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group.

[0324] Fluorinated volatile oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane and mixtures thereof, may also be used.

[0325] An oily phase according to the invention may further comprise, mixed with or solubilized in the oil, other fatty substances.

[0326] Another fatty substance that may be present in the oily phase may be, for example:

[0327] - a fatty acid selected from fatty acids comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid;

[0328] - a wax selected from waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, wax of Camauba or Candelilla wax, rice bran wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes;

[0329] - a gum selected from silicone gums (dimethiconol),

[0330] - a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymer silicone compounds, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives,

[0331] - and their mixtures.

[0332] Preferably, the overall oily phase, including all lipophilic substances of the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, including lipophilic filters, represents from 5 to 95% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0333] The composition according to the invention comprises isopropyl myristate, in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5%, preferably from 0.5% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0334] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one synthetic ester selected from isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl isostearate, and diisopropyl sebacate. Said at least one synthetic ester is then present in the composition in a concentration ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5%, and preferably from 0.5% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymer

[0335] The composition according to the invention may also include at least one crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymer, different from the AMPS® copolymer previously described.

[0336] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymer.

[0337] The homopolymer can be crosslinked with a crosslinking agent, in particular selected from pentaerythritol allyl ether, sucrose allyl ether, or propylene allyl ether.

[0338] For example, those sold by Lubrizol under the names Carbopol, 910, 934, 940, 941, 934 P, 980, 981, 2984, 5984, Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer (INCI name: carbomer), or by 3V-Sigma under the names Synthalen®K, Synthalen®L, or Synthalen®M.

[0339] The crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymer(s), different from the AMPS® copolymer previously described, may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0340] Homopolymer of AMPS® (poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid))

[0341] The composition of the invention may also include at least one crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymer comprising 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS®) motifs, different from the AMPS® copolymer previously described.

[0342] The homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

[0343] These are water-soluble, water-dispersible or water-swellable copolymers.

[0344] Preferably, the AMPS® homopolymers used in accordance with the invention can be partially or completely neutralized with an inorganic base (such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di-, or triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, or basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds. They are generally neutralized. In the present invention, the term "neutralized" is understood to mean polymers that have been completely or almost completely neutralized, i.e., neutralized to at least 90%.

[0345] The AMPS® homopolymers used in the composition of the invention generally have a number-average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to

[0346] 20,000,000 g / mol, preferably ranging from 20,000 to 5,000,000, and even more preferred from 100,000 to 1,500,000 g / mol.

[0347] When homopolymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from compounds possessing an olefinic polyunsaturation commonly used to crosslink polymers obtained by radical polymerization. Examples of crosslinking agents include divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylene- bisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of sugar series alcohols, or other allyl or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and also allyl esters of phosphoric acid derivatives and / or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0348] The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 to 10% by mol, and more particularly from 0.2 to 2% by mol, relative to the polymer.

[0349] In a particular embodiment, a preferred polymer of the present invention is poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid), which is partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked, such as ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, also known by the trade name Hostacerin AMPS®, and commercially available from the supplier Clariant.

[0350] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid).

[0351] The homopolymer of AMPS® according to the invention is generally present in quantities of active material ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight and more particularly from 0.8 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Acylglutamic acids and their salts

[0352] The composition according to the invention may also include at least one acyl glutamic acid (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or one of its salts (acyl glutamates).

[0353] Preferably, the acyl glutamic acid(s) are chosen from acyl glutamic acids whose acyl group comprises from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, lauroyl glutamic acid, myristoyl glutamic acid, palmitoyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, behenoyl glutamic acid, olivoyl glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid and salts of these acids, in particular alkali metal salts such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K, alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg or ammonium salts of said acids.

[0354] Preferably, the acyl glutamic acid(s) or one of its salts are selected from lauroyl glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid, sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate and mixtures thereof.

[0355] More preferably, acyl glutamic acid or one of its salts is sodium stearoyl glutamate (INCI name).

[0356] Such compounds are marketed under the name AMISOFT by the company AJINOMOTO and in particular under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11, Amisoft CK-11, or under the name EUMULGIN SG by the company COGNIS.

[0357] We can also mention triethanolamine cocoyl glutamate marketed under the name AMISOFT CT 12 by the company AJINOMOTO and triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate marketed under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE LT-12 by the company AJINOMOTO.

[0358] As a salt of acyl glutamic acid, we can also mention sodium hydrogenated tallowoyl glutamate such as that marketed under the reference ACYLGLUTAMATE HS 11 by the company AJINOMOTO and disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate such as that marketed under the reference ACYLGLUTAMATE HS-21 by the company AJINOMOTO.

[0359] We can also mention commercial mixtures of surfactants comprising at least one derivative of glutamic acid or a salt of said derivative such as, for example, the mixture of acyl glutamates such as Amisoft LS-22 marketed by AJINOMOTO.

[0360] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the mono-sodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid (INCI name: sodium stearoyl glutamate) is used, such as that marketed by the company AJINOMOTO under the reference AMISOFT HS 11 PF.

[0361] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the disodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid (INCI name: disodium stearoyl glutamate) such as that marketed by the company AJINOMOTO under the reference AMISOFT HS 21 P is used.

[0362] The acyl glutamic acid(s) and their salts may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0363] Alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of poly(ethylene oxide)

[0364] According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention may also include at least one non-ionic surfactant, selected from the alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of poly(ethylene oxide)

[0365] Preferably used are those having a number of ethylene oxide (0E) motifs ranging from 2 to 200. Examples include PEG-8 stearate, which is marketed under the trade name Myrj S 8 SO by the company Croda, stearate 40 0E, stearate 50 0E, stearate 100 0E, laurate 20 0E, laurate 40 0E, distearate 150 0E.

[0366] In a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention may include the PEG-100 stearate product, marketed under the trade name Myrj S 100 MB AL-PA by the company CRODA.

[0367] The alkyl- and polyalkyl- ester(poly(ethylene oxide)) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additives

[0368] The composition according to the invention may further include cosmetic adjuvants selected from deodorant actives, desquamating agents, antimicrobial agents, moisturizing agents, soothing agents, antioxidant agents, astringent agents, anti-aging agents, anti-wrinkle agents; softeners, antioxidants, stabilizers, vitamins, bactericides, preservatives, colorants, perfumes or any other ingredient commonly used in cosmetics for this type of application, and mixtures thereof.

[0369] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the cosmetic composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition(s). Galenic

[0370] The compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art. They can in particular be in the form of an emulsion, simple or complex (O / W, W / W, W / W / W or W / O / W) such as a cream, a lotion or a cream-gel.

[0371] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion. In particular, it may be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (direct emulsion) or in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (inverse emulsion). Preferably, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0372] In the case of compositions in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, the emulsification processes that can be used are of the blade or propeller type, rotor-stator and HHP.

[0373] A person skilled in the art will be able to choose the appropriate galenic form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of their general knowledge, taking into account on the one hand the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support, and on the other hand the application envisaged for the composition.

[0374] The composition according to the invention comprises a "physiologically acceptable medium". A "physiologically acceptable medium" is understood to be a medium suitable for the topical administration of a composition and compatible with all keratinous materials of human beings such as skin, lips, nails, mucous membranes, eyelashes, eyebrows, scalp and / or hair, or any other skin area of ​​the body.

[0375] According to the invention, a physiologically acceptable medium is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. without odor or unpleasant appearance, and which is perfectly compatible with the topical route of administration.

[0376] More particularly, the composition according to the invention is suitable for administration by topical route, that is to say by application to the surface of the keratinous material considered, such as the skin considered.

[0377] The compositions according to the invention are preferably cosmetic compositions for skin care and / or makeup.

[0378] These compositions are intended in particular for topical application on the face and / or body.

[0379] In particular, the composition is applied to the facial area, especially the T-zone (forehead, nose, cheeks, chin), especially the forehead and nose.

[0380] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention has a pH between 5 and 8, preferably between 5.5 and 7.

[0381] Cosmetic compositions according to the invention having a pH between 5 and 8, preferably having a pH of 5.5 and 7, exhibit improved stability, particularly for the chemical ingredients present in said compositions.

[0382] Another object of the invention is a cosmetic treatment process for keratinous materials in which a composition as defined above is applied to said keratinous materials.

[0383] Another object of the invention is the use of a composition as defined above for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous materials.

[0384] The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which are in no way limiting of the scope of the invention. However, the examples allow for the support of specific features, variants, and preferred embodiments of the invention. Examples

[0385] In the examples, the temperature is given in degrees Celsius and corresponds to ambient temperature (20-25°C), unless otherwise stated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure at sea level, unless otherwise stated. Furthermore, percentages are given by weight relative to the total weight of the composition unless otherwise stated.

[0386] The raw materials of phase A (lipophilic UV filters, alcohols and fatty acids, hydrophobic surfactants, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, other oils, hydrophobic actives and hydrophobic preservatives and antioxidant) are added to the main tank and heated between 65 and 80 °C until total homogenization of the phase.

[0387] The raw materials for phase B (21% water, 3% glycerin, colorants, hydrophilic actives, glycols, chelating agent, hydrophilic preservatives, hydrophilic UV filter) are added to the main tank and homogenized. The phase is maintained at a temperature between 65 and 80 °C.

[0388] Phase B is introduced into phase A at a temperature between 65 and 80 °C under rotor / stator.

[0389] Phase C containing the polymers and phase D containing the silicones are then added successively.

[0390] Control of sensory and cosmetic properties:

[0391] For each of the following compositions, the cosmetic properties were evaluated according to the following protocol.

[0392] The cosmetic properties upon application are evaluated monadically by a panel of experts trained in describing skincare products. The sensory evaluation of the skincare products by this panel is carried out as follows: the products are packaged in jars. During the same session, the samples are presented in random order to each panelist. They first evaluate the grip and flexibility in the jar (pick-up). They then place a drop of product (0.05 mL) on the back of their hand and evaluate the glide upon application, followed by the transformation of the texture into an oil by making 15 rotations in 15 seconds with their index and middle fingers. The experts then evaluate the comfort, which is defined by the oily film (more or less oily or waxy on the skin) and the softness after a few seconds of absorption.

[0393] The descriptors are evaluated on a scale rated from 1 to 5: 1 = not, 2 = little, 3 = moderately, 4 = quite, 5 = very.

[0394] The sensory parameters evaluated for the compositions tested are as follows:

[0395] - "Pick-up" (or grip firmness): this parameter allows evaluation of the character The composition (1) should be flexible / stringy or thick / bouncy (5) when set in the pot. For compositions according to the invention, a balanced firmness at setting is expected (neither too flexible / stringy nor too thick / bouncy).

[0396] - Spreading: this property is measured through the following 2 parameters: the Slipperiness upon application and transformation into oil. Regarding slipperiness upon application, this ranges from least slippery (1) to most slippery (5). For the compositions according to the invention, it is expected that the slipperiness will be as high as possible. Regarding transformation into oil, this ranges from a completely non-transformative texture (referred to as "continuous") (1) to a significant transformation into oil (5). For the compositions according to the invention, it is expected that they will not have highly transformative textures.

[0397] - The "skin finish": this property is measured through the 2 parameters The following are considered: oiliness (greasy / waxy) and softness (sticky / smooth). Oiliness ranges from oily (1) to waxy (5). For compositions according to the invention, the oiliness is expected to be as oily as possible to avoid a rough skin finish. Softness ranges from sticky (1), which imparts a tacky feel, to smooth (5). For compositions according to the invention, the smoothness is expected to be as minimally sticky as possible (and therefore the composition should be as minimally sticky as possible after application).

[0398] The results obtained for the different compositions tested are presented in Table 2 below. Only compositions 1 and 4 according to the invention make it possible to obtain the expected firmness upon setting, spreading and skin finish. [Tables 1] RM 1NCÈ Composition i seion ^invention Composition 2 feors invention CompesSson 3 hors invention Composition 4 seion invention Composition 5 hors- invention AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDSMET HYLTÀURÂTE / ST EARETH-25 METHACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER 0.25% 0..25% 0% 0.25% 025% AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLD IMETHYL TAURATE 1% 1% 1.25% 1% 1% CARBOMER 0.3% Ü.3% 0.3% 0.3% 0.3% CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and} CETEARYL GEUCOSJDE 052% 0% 0.32% 0.32% 0.32% DÎSODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0.5% 0 5% (15% o.s% 0.5% PEG-10© STEARATE 0,.2û% Q,52% OjÛ% P Kj o 0,20% PHEWLBENZiW GAZOLE SULFOMCACiD 1% 1% 1% 1.5% 1.5% BUTYL METHOMYDtBEN ZOYLMETHANE 1% 1% 1% 2% 2 ETHYLHEXYL SA.UCYLATE 4% 4% 4% 4% 4% ETKYLHEXYl TRSAZONE 1%. 1% 0% 0% BiS-ETWLHEXYLOXY PHENOL METHOXYPHENY L TRI AUNE 0,9% 0,9% 0,9%' 0% 0% TiTANtUM WOWE 0,54% 0,54% 0,54% 0,54% 0,54% OCTOCRYLENE 0% 0% 0% 2% 234 tSOPROPYL MYRiSTATE 2 1.S 1 tSOPROPYL tSOSTEARATE 1,5 1,5 1,5: C12-15 ALKYL BENZQATE 3 2 2 3,5 [Tableaux2] CONFIGURATION OF SENSORY AND COSMETIC PROPERTIES Property Composition 1 SeiOB Hmæntion Composition 2 excluding Bwentoi Composition 3 excluding invention Composition 4 according to inven&n Composition 5 excluding myfeEitfofi ^Pick-up 3Æ 2 / 5 1 / 5 3 / 5 3 / 5 rising to Manufacture 4 / 5 2.5 / 5 3 / 5 4 / 5 3 / 5 Transformation into oil 2 / 5 4 / 5 3 / 5 4 / 5 Sras fHuiieux / waxy} 2 / 5 4 / 5 3 / 5 3 / 5 3 / 5 Oouceta iPoisseu^ / Souxl 4 / 5 3 / 5 «J — 2 / 5 4 / 5 1 / 5

Claims

Demands

1. A cosmetic or dermatological composition in the form of an emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable carrier: a) at least one aqueous phase; b) at least one oily phase; c) at least one copolymer comprising at least one monomer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS®) and at least one hydrophobic monomer, the hydrophobic monomer of formula (II) being ethoxylated stearyl methacrylate (25OE) corresponding to the compound of formula (II): R... xL 0--R, b" in which the Ri group represents a methyl group, the Y group designates 0, the R2 group represents an alkyl radical comprising 18 carbon atoms and x is equal to 25; d) at least one emulsifying system comprising at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside; e) at least one UV filter; and f) isopropyl myristate.

2. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the monomer(s) of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid are totally salted, preferably in the form of an ammonium salt.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the copolymer(s) of AMPS® are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight and even more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) are selected from the compounds of formula (IV) following: pnrr- (,V) RlO-tGh in which: - Ri designates a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 22, and even more preferably 12 to 20; - the G group is a saccharide remnant; - a is a number from 1 to 10.

5. Composition according to claim 9, characterized in that the saccharide remainder is selected from glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucan, cellulose, starch and mixtures thereof, preferably glucose.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the alkyl(poly)glycosides are selected from the mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol / arachidylglucoside, the mixture of cetylstearyl alcohol / cetylstearylglucoside and mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the composition comprises at least one fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol ester selected from isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl isostearate and diisopropyl sebacate.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the composition comprises at least one homopolymer of crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the composition comprises at least one homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS®).

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the composition comprises at least one acyl glutamic acid selected from acyl glutamic acids having an acyl group comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms such as lauroyl glutamic, myristoyl glutamic, palmitoyl glutamic, stearoyl glutamic, behenoyl glutamic, olivoyl glutamic, cocoyl glutamic, and mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the composition comprises at least one alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of poly(ethylene oxide) having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) motifs from 2 to 200.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims ca- characterized in that the composition includes at least one organic UV filter selected from Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Butyl Methoxydiben-zoylmethane, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, and mixtures thereof.