Composition comprising ethyl cellulose, a mono-alcohol, a volatile hydrocarbon oil, a non-volatile alkane, a fatty acid and polyglycerol ester, and a linoleic or oleic acid ester

Abstract

Composition comprising ethylcellulose, a mono-alcohol, a volatile hydrocarbon oil, a non-volatile alkane, a fatty acid and polyglycerol ester, and a linoleic or oleic acid ester. The present invention relates to an anhydrous skincare and / or makeup composition comprising: a) ethylcellulose; b) at least one linear or branched mono-alcohol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms; c) at least one linear or branched C12-C18 carboxylic acid monoester or diester and polyglycerol having 2 to 6 glycerol units; and d) a liquid oil phase comprising i) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; ii) at least one non-volatile alkane oil; and iii) at least one non-volatile ester oil selected from unsaturated C1-C10 linear or branched linoleic or oleic acid and alkanol ester.

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising ethyl cellulose, a mono-alcohol, a volatile hydrocarbon oil, a non-volatile alkane, a fatty acid and polyglycerol ester, and a linoleic or oleic acid ester technical field

[0001] The present invention aims to provide, for the field of skincare and / or makeup, keratinous materials such as skin, particularly areas of the face, especially the eyelids or cheeks. It also relates to a method for skincare and / or makeup application of human keratinous materials, such as skin, particularly areas of the face, especially the eyelids or cheeks, in which said composition is applied.

[0002] Cosmetic makeup compositions are commonly used to provide aesthetic color to keratinous materials such as skin, but also to enhance uneven skin by concealing blemishes and discoloration, and reducing the visibility of surface imperfections such as pores and wrinkles. Numerous formulations have been developed to date.

[0003] The vast majority of eyeshadows or blushes on the cosmetics market are powder products whose shine is provided exclusively by reflective particles, particularly interference pigments such as mother-of-pearls with a natural substrate like mica or a synthetic substrate like borosilicate or synthetic fluorphlogopite. This type of composition does not allow for sufficiently intense shine.

[0004] Among other current eyeshadow formulations, there are - anhydrous creams with a high content of fatty substances such as oils or waxes like the commercial product Longwear Cream Eyeshadows® from Chanel; - compact powders with a high binder content made up of oils such as Chanel's Longwear Cream Eyeshadows® and Chanel's Ombre Premierez Cruise Gloss Topcoat Eyeshadows®. - hot-poured solid anhydrous formulas, notably in pencil form based on ester oils, waxes such as the Nyx Jumbo Crayon® commercial product;

[0005] - gloss-type formulas such as the commercial product Eye Gloss Smudger® Yves Saint Laurent, similar to lip glosses, colored or not, and generally containing a high content of hydrogenated polyisobutene.

[0006] In all these types of anhydrous galenics, the glossy effect is provided by the oils (esters, silicones, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isododecane), in the presence or absence of Reflective particles such as mother-of-pearl or glitter. Despite providing good shine, these products tend to produce an uncomfortable sticky effect, easily migrate into eyelid creases or transfer, and therefore have poor staying power.

[0007] There are also liquid aqueous formulas in the form of a more or less gelled oil-in-water emulsion, such as the commercial products Eye Tint Liquid Eyeshadow® by Giorgio Armani, Ombre Première Laque® by Chanel, and Glitter & Glow Liquid Eyeshadow® by Stila Styles, which are based on a high concentration of oils and pearlescent pigments. However, the wet-look shine imparted by the water upon application of these products generally disappears after a few moments, leaving only a particulate shine due to the pearlescent pigments after drying, the residual deposit of the formula being matte.

[0008] To date, the only category of cosmetic products offering a fast-drying, transfer-proof, high-gloss finish without the aid of reflective particles is nail polish. However, these products are not suitable for application on the face, particularly on the eyelids or cheeks. Indeed, such products could lead to tolerance problems and produce a film after application with a high degree of uncomfortable rigidity.

[0009] There remains a need to find new compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular eyeshadows or blush which provide intense shine without necessarily using reflective particles, which have good staying power, very low stickiness or even no stickiness and do not transfer or migrate into the folds of the eyelid very quickly after application.

[0010] During its research, the applicant unexpectedly discovered that these objectives could be achieved with an anhydrous composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials such as skin, particularly areas of the face, especially the eyelids or cheeks, comprising, preferably in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) ethylcellulose; and b) at least one monoalcohol, linear or branched, comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and

[0011] c) at least one monoester or diester of a linear or branched Ci2-Ci8 carboxylic acid and polyglycerol comprising 2 to 6 units, preferably 2 or 3 glycerol units; and d) a liquid fatty phase comprising (i) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; and (ii) at least one non-volatile alkane oil; and iii) at least one volatile oil ester selected from unsaturated esters of linoleic acid or oleic acid and linear or branched Ci-Ci0 alkanol;

[0012] said composition being in the form of a gel whose modulus G* (viscoelastic modulus) is between 100 and 3000 Pa for a phase angle between 30 and 60°.

[0013] This discovery is the basis of the invention.

[0014] The present invention relates to an anhydrous composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials such as skin, particularly areas of the face, especially the eyelids or cheeks, comprising, preferably in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) ethylcellulose; and b) at least one monoalcohol, linear or branched, comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and (c) at least one linear or branched monoester or diester of a Ci2-Ci8 carboxylic acid and polyglycerol comprising 2 to 6 units, preferably 2 or 3 glycerol units; and d) a liquid fatty phase comprising (i) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; and (ii) at least one non-volatile alkane oil; and iii) at least one volatile oil ester selected from unsaturated esters of linoleic acid or oleic acid and linear or branched Ci-Ci0 alkanol; said composition being in the form of a gel whose G* modulus (viscoelastic modulus) is between 100 and 3000 Pa for a phase angle between 30 and 60°. Ethylcellulose

[0015] As previously stated, the composition according to the invention comprises a) at least ethylcellulose.

[0016] Ethylcellulose is an ethyl ether of cellulose, comprising a chain made up of [3-anhydroglucose] units linked together by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or part of these hydroxyl groups being able to react according to the following reaction: RONa + C2H5Cl → ROC2H5 + NaCl, where R represents a cellulose radical. Total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups would lead, for each anhydroglucose unit, to a degree of substitution of 3, in other words, to an alkoxy, in particular ethoxy, content of 54.88%.

[0017] The ethylcellulose polymers used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferably polymers having a degree of substitution in ethoxy groups ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words including an ethoxy group content ranging from 44% to 50%.

[0018] The average molar mass of ethylcellulose is preferably chosen so that the viscosity of a 5 wt% solution in an 80 / 20 (toluene / ethanol) mixture at 25°C ranges from 4 to 300 mPa.s, preferably from 5 to 200 mPa.s, for example from 5 to 150 mPa.s. (ASTM D 914 standard).

[0019] The ethylcellulose used in the composition according to the invention is more particularly in powder form.

[0020] It is, for example, marketed under the trade names ETHOCEL Standard® by Dow Chemicals, including ETHOCEL Standard 7 FP Premium® and ETHOCEL Standard 100 FP Premium®. Other commercially available products, such as those marketed by Ashland, Inc., under the names Aqualon Ethylcellulose® type-K, type-N and type-T, preferably type-N, such as N7, N100, are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention.

[0021] The ethylcellulose content varies, preferably, from 10 to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 15 to 25% by weight, and more particularly from 18 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Mono-alcohol

[0022] The compositions of the invention comprise b) at least one mono-alcohol, linear or branched, comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and in particular from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0023] The compositions of the invention may comprise one or more mono-alcohol(s).

[0024] This mono-alcohol may be represented, for example, by the formula RaOH, in which Ra represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0025] Examples of mono-alcohols include ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol.

[0026] According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise ethanol.

[0027] According to an advantageous embodiment, the quantity of mono-alcohol(s) varies from 10. at 25% by weight, preferably from 12 to 18% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0028] Monoester or diester of Cm-Ca carboxylic acid and polyglycerol

[0029] The composition of the invention comprises c) at least one monoester or diester of carboxylic acid in Ci2-Ci8, linear or branched and of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 6 units, preferably 2 or 3 glycerol units.

[0030] Among the monoester or diester of carboxylic acid in the form Ci2-Ci8, linear or branched, and of polyglycerol comprising 2 to 6 glycerol units usable in the compositions of the invention, examples include Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dilaurate, le Polyglyceryl-4 Dilaurate, le Polyglyceryl-5 Dilaurate, le Polyglyceryl-6 Dipalmitate, le Polyglyceryl-2 Distearate, le Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, le Polyglyceryl-4 Distearate, le Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, le Polyglyceryl-2 Isopalmitate, le Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, le Polyglyceryl-3 Isostearate, le Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, le Poly-glyceryl-5 Isostearate, le Polyglyceryl-6 Isostearate, le Polyglyceryl-2 Laurate, le Poly-glyceryl-3 Laurate, le Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, le Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, le Poly-glyceryl-6 Laurate, le Polyglyceryl-2 Myristate, le Polyglyceryl-3 Myristate, le Poly-glyceryl-5 Myristate, le Polyglyceryl-6 Myristate, le Polyglyceryl-2 Palmitate, le Poly-glyceryl-3 Palmitate, le Polyglyceryl-6 Palmitate, le Polyglyceryl-2 Stéarate, le Poly-glyceryl-3 Stéarate, le Polyglyceryl-4 Stéarate, le Polyglyceryl-5, le Polyglyceryl-6 Stéarate, et leurs mélanges.

[0031] In a particularly preferred form, Polyglycerol-3 Distearate is used, such as in commercial products sold under the following names: AEC Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate® (A & E Connok Perfumery & Cosmetics Ltd); Cithrol PG32IS® (Croda Europe Ltd); CremerCOOR PG3 DIS® (IOI Oleo GmbH); Dub ISO G3® (Stearineries Dubois Fils); Lameform TGI® (BASF Corporation); Plurol Diisostearique® (Gatefosse); Risorex PGIS32® (Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo Co. Ltd).

[0032] According to an advantageous embodiment, the amount of monoester or diester of C2-Ci8 carboxylic acid and polyglycerol comprising 2 to 6 glycerol units varies from 5 to 45% by weight, preferably from 20 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Liquid fat phase

[0033] A composition according to the invention contains a liquid oily phase comprising i) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; and ii) at least one non-volatile alkane oil; and iii) at least one non-volatile ester oil selected from unsaturated esters of linoleic acid or oleic acid and linear or C1-C10 branched alkanol.

[0034] Such a liquid fatty phase is a liquid organic phase at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) that is non-aqueous and immiscible with water.

[0035] The term "oil" means any organic compound that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), non-aqueous and immiscible with water.

[0036] The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly one or more functional groups. chosen from among the hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions.

[0037] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having, in particular, a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, according to the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104).

[0038] For the purposes of this invention, "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1,300 Pa. i) Volatile hydrocarbon oil

[0039] The volatile hydrocarbon oils i) usable in the compositions according to the invention can be chosen from among the C8-Ci6 branched alkanes.

[0040] By "alkane" is meant any compound comprising a saturated, linear hydrocarbon chain consisting exclusively of carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms.

[0041] Examples include petroleum-derived C8-Ci6 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and, for example, oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or Permetyl®, C8-Ci6 branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, particularly those sold under the name Shell Soit® by the Shell company, may also be used.

[0042] The volatile hydrocarbon oils usable in the compositions according to the invention can also be chosen from among the volatile linear alkanes comprising from 6 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0043] As an example of linear alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in Cognis patent applications WO 2007 / 068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil.

[0044] By way of example of linear C6-Ci4 alkanes suitable for the invention, we may mention n-hexane (C6); n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (Ci0), n-undecane (Cn), n-dodecane (Ci2), n-tridecane (Cn), n-tetradecane (CM), and their mixtures.

[0045] We can also mention n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (Ci4) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12 97® and PARAFOL 14 97®, as well as their mixtures.

[0046] According to another embodiment, a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane is used. In particular, the dodecane / tetradecane mixture in the weight ratio 85 / 15 marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the reference VEGELIGHT 1214® can be used.

[0047] According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of volatile linear alkanes in C9-C12- is used, with INCI name: C9-12 ALKANE such as the product marketed by the company BIOSYNTHIS under the reference VEGELIGHT SILK®.

[0048] According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Cn) is used, such as those obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis and such as that sold under the trade name CETIOL ULTIMATE® by BASF.

[0049] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is isododecane.

[0050] The volatile hydrocarbon oil or oils (i) are preferably present in the composition of the invention at levels less than or equal to 25.0% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. ii) Non-volatile alkane oil

[0051] The non-volatile alkane oils ii) usable in the compositions according to the invention may be selected from linear or branched alkanes comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular selected from - Liquid linear or branched paraffins comprising 18 to 32 carbon atoms, - squalane (C30) with the following structure [Chem 1] GH3 Chg CH3 CH$ CH3 CHg - isoeicosane (C20); - their mixtures.

[0052] Isoeicosane is notably sold under the following trade names: Creasil IE CG® (CIT Sari); Creasil IE Sethic® (The Innovation Company); Fancol IE® (Elementis Specialties); OriStar IES® (Orient Stars LLC); Permethyl 102A® (Presperse Corp).

[0053] According to a particularly preferred form, the non-volatile alkane oil ii) is squalane sold in particular under the following trade names: ABS Amaranthus Squalane® (Active Concepts LLC): AEC Squalane® (A & E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics Ltd); Botanessential Olivane® (Botanigenics Inc.); Cosbiol® (Laserson); Creanatural Vegetable Squalane® (CIT Sari); Dermane® (Universal Preserv. Chem. Inc.); Fitoderm® (BASF Corporation); Keteol N® (Prod'hyg Laboratories): Keteol V® (Prod'hyg Laboratories): Nikkol Olive Squalane® (Nikko Chemicals Co. Ltd.); Nikkol Squalane® (Nikko Chemicals Co. Ltd.); Nikkol Sugar Squalane® (Nikko Chemicals Co. Ltd.); Olive Squalane® (Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo Co. Ltd); OriStar Squalane® (Orient Stars LLC); Phytosqualan® (Sophim); Phytosqual Hydrogen® (Vevy Europe Spa); Planted Olive Squalane® (CRM International); Pripure 3759® (Croda Europe Ltd);

[0054] Salacos RS® (The Nisshin Oil Group Ltd); Sophiderm® (Sophim); Neossance Squalane® (Amyris).

[0055] The non-volatile alkane oil or oils ii) are preferably present in the composition of the invention at levels less than or equal to 15.0% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 3 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0056] iii) Non-volatile ester oil of linoleic acid or oleic acid

[0057] The liquid oily phase of the composition according to the invention comprises iii) at least one non-volatile ester oil selected from unsaturated esters of linoleic acid or oleic acid and linear or branched Ci-Ci0 alkanol.

[0058] By "alkanol" is meant any saturated alkane compound having a hydroxy (OH) function in its structure.

[0059] By "ester" is meant any ester having in the main chain at least one double bond -CH2=CH2-.

[0060] Among the linoleic acid esters according to the invention, the following may be mentioned: - Methyl Linoleate, such as the products sold under the following trade names: AEC Methyl Linoleate® (A & E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics Ltd); Dub LIM® (Stearinerie Dubois Fils); - Ethyl Linoleate, such as products sold under the following trade names: AEC Ethyl Linoleate® (A & E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics Ltd); Dub Omega 6 EE® (Stearinerie Dubois Fils); Nikkol VF-LINO® (Nikko Chemicals Co. Ltd); Safester A-75® (Givaudan Active Beauty); Synovea EL (Sytheon Ltd); -Isopropyl Linoleate such as the product sold under the trade name AEC Isopropyl Linoleate® (A & E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics Ltd); and their mixtures.

[0061] Among the oleic acid esters according to the invention, the following may be mentioned: - Butyl Oleate such as the product sold under the trade name AEC Butyl Oleate® (A & E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics Ltd); - Decyl Oleate, such as the products sold under the following trade names: AEC Decyl Oleate® (A & E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics Ltd); Ceraphyl 140® (Ashland Inc.); Ceraphyl 140A® (Ashland Inc.); Cetiol V® (BASF Corporation) ; CremerCOOR DO® (IOI Oleao GmbH) ; Dermol DO® (Alzo International Inc.) ; Dermol V® (Fabriquimica SRL) ; Dub OD® (Stearinerie Dubois Fils) ; Jeechem DO® (Jeen International Corporation) ; Pelemol DO® (Phoenix Chemicals Inc.) ; Radia 7336® (Oleon NV); Saboderm DO (Sabo spa); Tegosoft DO® (Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH) ; Unimul-CTV® (Universal Preserv-A-Chem Inc.) ; Unitilate V® (Universal Preserv-A-Chem Inc.) ; - Ethylhexyl Oleate tells you that the products are sold under the following commercial names: AEC Ethylhexyl Oleate® (A & E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics Ltd) ; Saboderm EO(Sabo spa); AEC Ethyl Oleate (A & E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics Ltd) ; -1'Ethyl Oleate such as products sold under the following trade names: Crodamol EO® (Croda Europe Ltd.); Dub OE HP® (Stearinerie Dubois Fils); - Isobutyl Oleate such as the commercial product Clearbright IB-81S® (NOF Corporation); - Isodecyl Oleate, such as the products sold under the following trade names: AEC Isodecyl Oleate® (A & E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics Ltd); Dermol IDO® (Alzo International Inc.); Pelemol IDO® (Phoenix Chemicals Inc.); Schercemol IDO Ester® (Lubrizol Advanced Materials Inc.); - Isopropyl Oleate such as the commercial product AEC Isopropyl Linoleate (A & E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics Ltd); - Methyl Oleate, such as the products sold under the following trade names: AEC Methyl Oleate® (A & E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics Ltd); Dub OM HTO® (Stearinerie Dubois Fils); and their mixtures.

[0062] According to a particularly preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises Ethyl Linoleate.

[0063] The non-volatile ester oil or oils iii) are preferably present in the composition of the invention at levels less than or equal to 20.0% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 2 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Properties of the compositions

[0064] Preferably, the compositions of the invention have: 1) a stickiness value less than or equal to 0.01 Ns, preferably less than or equal to 0.005 Ns; and 2) a gloss level of 50 gloss units or higher at 60°, preferably ranging from 60 to 85 gloss units; and 3) a setting time of the surface of the film formed by the composition on the keratin material or a synthetic substrate, preferably less than 1 minute, more preferably less than or equal to 30 seconds. A) Tights measurement protocol

[0065] The composition is deposited as a film in a silicone mold 2.5 cm wide and 5.5 cm long (for example, a Silikomart 20.026.00.0060 SF026® cake mold). 1.7 + / - 0.02 g of the composition is weighed into the silicone mold. The product is spread using a flat spatula, such as a Labo Moderne BC3219 Spatule®, to obtain a homogeneous layer over the entire bottom of the mold. The mold with the product is stored in a draft-free area, such as a cupboard drawer, and left to dry for 24 hours.

[0066] The film is carefully removed from the silicone mold and it is placed flat on a flexible sheet of Supplale® type such as for example the commercial reference Soudotique PG SARL® or DFSUP10075® beige.

[0067] The assembly is positioned on the platform of a MicroSystem TA. XT Plus® Stable Texture Tester equipped with a 5 kg load cell, an SMS P / 5S® spherical traction wheel, and Exponent Connect® software. The parameters for the compression tests with time maintenance are as follows:

[0068] Approach speed (or pre-speed): 0.5 mm / s; Speed ​​(from contact detection): 0.1 mm / s; Force (and corresponding pressure): 0.01 Newtons; Insertion depth: 0.15 mm; Holding time: 5 seconds; Retraction speed (or post-speed): 2 mm / s.

[0069] Four successive measurements are taken by positioning the film so that the measurement points are evenly distributed over the surface of the film, avoiding the most irregular areas. For each test, the curve measuring the force exerted on the moving object as a function of time is plotted.

[0070] The sticky is characterized by the detachment work measured during unloading (tensile phase).

[0071] The adhesiveness value of the composition, expressed in newton-seconds (Ns), corresponds to the average of the area values ​​of the four adhesive force measurements as a function of time during the movement of the mobile (the area delimited between the curve of points measured during the upward movement of the mobile – negative force values ​​– and the x-axis, until this curve reaches a zero force value). B) Gloss measurement protocol

[0072] The sample is spread as a 50.8pm film on a Byko Chart 2A® or Penopac IA® type contrast card from BYK using an automatic film spreader of the Byko-Drive XL® type from BYK equipped with a film spreading bar such as a variable slit height square 5353® from BYK, set for a slit height of 50.8pm.

[0073] The contrast card is placed on the applicator platform and the bar on the side A 50.8 µm slot is marked on the contrast card, in the area designated for information. Approximately 2g of product is deposited directly in front of the bar. The automatic applicator is then activated, and the bar is moved to ensure the application of a uniform film of the desired thickness.

[0074] The film is left to dry at 25°C for 15 minutes.

[0075] The gloss of the film applied to the black areas of the contrast card is measured at an angle of incidence of 60°; this is expressed in gloss units (Gloss Units).

[0076] The gloss unit is a measurement scale of a glossmeter (e.g., Konica Minolta's Rhopoint IQ-S®), established from a reference standard of highly polished black glass, with a defined refractive index and specular reflectance of 100 gloss units at a given angle, with the minimum point set at 0 for a perfectly matte surface. This scale is suitable for most coatings and non-metallic materials such as paint and plastic.

[0077] The measurement can be repeated over time to evaluate gloss retention. C) Protocol for evaluating setting time

[0078] When the product is applied in a thin layer (on skin or on a synthetic surface), the surface of the deposit sets slightly, forming a very thin, flexible but non-sticky film, which prevents the product from transferring to another surface. This can be considered a drying time.

[0079] 0.05g + / -0.01g of the sample is deposited on the inner surface of the forearm, which is then spread quickly (in 2-3 seconds) in a thin layer with the finger to form a film of homogeneous thickness over a surface of approximately 8 cm2.

[0080] The stopwatch is started and the surface solidification of the deposit is evaluated every 10 seconds or so by lightly pressing the pulp of the index finger on it and then observing the presence or absence of any trace of product that has transferred onto the index finger.

[0081] The freezing time is the time at which no further transfer of product from the forearm to the index finger is observed. D) Rheological properties of the product

[0082] According to a preferred mode, the composition is in the form of a gel whose modulus G* (viscoelastic modulus) is between 100 and 3000 Pa for a phase angle between 30 and 60°, more particularly between 500 and 2800 Pa, for a phase angle between 30 and 50°.

[0083] Gels, like all polymerized systems, exhibit viscoelastic behavior.

[0084] This type of behavior can be characterized from finning or relaxation experiments, or by dynamic tests where a stress (or a deformation) if nusoidal is applied. In this case, the viscoelastic properties (G* and delta) are measured with a stress rheometer and the values ​​are taken on the viscoelastic plateau at 25 °C.

[0085] The measurements are performed using a stress rheometer (ARG2® from TA Instruments). The measurement geometry used is a 35 mm diameter sandblasted cone-plate with a 2° angle. The sample is subjected to sinusoidal stresses of increasing amplitude at a frequency of 1 hertz, over a stress range from 0.1 to 1000 Pa. The resistance of the sample to the imposed deformation allows the curves of consistency G* and solid / liquid character ô to be obtained as a function of stress r. The main data collected are the G* value at the plateau (consistency) and the phase shift angle delta (solid / liquid character). Pigments

[0086] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises at least one pigment.

[0087] The term "pigments" means white or colored, mineral or organic particles, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit. These pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic. They may be coated or uncoated with a surface treatment agent.

[0088] Preferably, the composition comprises at least 0.01% by weight of pigment(s), more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight of pigment(s), in particular from 0.2 to 1% by weight and preferably from 0.2 to 0.5% by weight of pigment(s), relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0089] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0090] The term "mineral pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia under the chapter on inorganic pigments. Examples of mineral pigments useful in the present invention include zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow, or red), or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metallic powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta₂O₅, Ti₃O₅, Ti₂O₃, TiO, and ZrO₂ mixed with TiO₂, ZrO₂, Nb₂O₅, CeO₂, and ZnS.

[0091] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can go up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 µm.

[0092] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and up to 10 µm, of preference from 200 nm to 5 pm, and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 pm.

[0093] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer, specifically the Malvern Master Sizer 3000®, which allows for the determination of the particle size distribution over a wide range from 0.01 pm to 1000 pm. The data are processed based on the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is best suited for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron, and it allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0094] D

[50] represents the maximum size that 50% by volume of the particles

[0095] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxides and / or titanium dioxide, coated or uncoated.

[0096] As mineral pigments that can be used in the invention, nacres can also be mentioned.

[0097] By “mother-of-pearl”, one must understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

[0098] The pearlescent pigments can be selected from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They can also consist of mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials are superimposed.

[0099] We can also cite, as an example of nacres, natural mica covered with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

[0100] Among the mother-of-pearls available on the market, we can mention TIMICA®, FLAMENCO® and DUOCHROME® mother-of-pearls (on a mica base) marketed by the company ENGELHARD, TIMIRON® mother-of-pearls marketed by the company MERCK, PRESTIGE® mother-of-pearls on a mica base marketed by the company ECKART and SUNSHINE® mother-of-pearls on a synthetic mica base marketed by the company SUN CHEMICAL.

[0101] Mother-of-pearl may in particular have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper colour or reflection.

[0102] By way of illustration of the mother-of-pearls that can be used in the context of the present invention, one can, in particular, mention the gold-colored mother-of-pearls, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD, under the name of Brillant gold 212G® (Timica), Gold 222C® (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold® (Timica), Gold 4504® (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233X® (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company MERCK under the name Bronze fine® (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze® (17353) (Colorona) and by the company ENGELHARD under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C® (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101® (Cosmica) and by the company MERCK under the name Passion Orange® (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449)® (Microna); brown-tinted mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Nu-Antique Copper 340XB® (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509® (Chromalite); mother-of-pearl with a copper reflection, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Copper 340A® (Timica);mother-of-pearl with a red sheen, in particular, marketed by the company MERCK under the name Sienna fine® (17386) (Colorona); mother-of-pearl with a yellow sheen, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) ® (Chromalite); mother-of-pearl with a red tint and a gold sheen, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012® (Gemtone); mother-of-pearl with a pink sheen, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Tan Opale G005® (Gemtone);Black pearlescent pigments with a gold sheen, in particular, marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Nu Antique Bronze 240 AB® (Timica); blue pearlescent pigments, in particular, marketed by MERCK under the name Matte Blue® (17433) (Microna); white pearlescent pigments with a silver sheen, in particular, marketed by MERCK under the name Xirona Silver®; and orangey-pinkish-green-gold pearlescent pigments, in particular, marketed by MERCK under the name Indian Summer® (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.

[0103] Among the pigments usable according to the invention, one can also mention those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional hue effect, that is to say, a unified and stabilized effect such as that produced by classic coloring materials, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of this invention, "stabilized" means free from any variation in color with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.

[0104] For example, this material can be chosen from metallic-reflecting particles, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and, in particular, interference fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined in such a way as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect according to the invention.

[0105] The metallic-reflecting particles usable in the invention are in particular chosen from:

[0106] - particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metallic derivative,

[0107] - particles comprising an organic or mineral substrate, single-material or multi- materials, coated at least partially by at least one metallic sheen layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metallic derivative, and

[0108] - mixtures of said particles.

[0109] Among the metals that may be present in said particles, examples include Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and their mixtures or alloys (for example, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

[0110] The term “metallic derivatives” refers to compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides

[0111] By way of illustration of these particles, one can cite aluminium particles, such as those marketed under the names STARBRITE 1200 EAC® by the company SIBERLINE and METALURE® by the company ECKART.

[0112] We can also mention metallic powders of copper or mixtures of alloys, such as references 2844 marketed by the company RADIUM BRONZE, metallic pigments, such as aluminium or bronze, such as those marketed under the names ROTOSAFE 700® by the company ECKART, aluminium particles coated with silica marketed under the name VI-SIONAIRE BRIGHT SILVER® by the company ECKART and metallic alloy particles, such as bronze powders (copper and zinc alloy) coated with silica marketed under the name Visionaire Bright Natural Gold® by the company Eckart.

[0113] It may also be particles comprising a glass substrate such as those marketed by the company NIPPON SHEET GLASS under the names ML CROGLASS METASHINE®.

[0114] The goniochromatic staining agent can be chosen, for example, from interfering multilayer structures and liquid crystal staining agents.

[0115] Examples of symmetrical interference multilayer structures usable in compositions made according to the invention are, for example, the following structures: Al / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Al, pigments having this structure being marketed by DUPONT DE NEMOURS; Cr / MgF2 / Al / MgF2 / Cr, pigments having this structure being marketed under the name CHROMAFLAIR® by FLEX; MoS2 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3, and Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3, pigments having these structures being marketed under the name SICOPEARL® by BASF; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2; SnO / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / SnO; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3; SnO / mica / TiCVSiO2 / TiO2 / mica / SnO—pigments with these structures are marketed under the name XIRONA® by MERCK (Darmstadt). For example, these pigments include the silica / titanium dioxide / tin dioxide structure pigments marketed under the name XIRONA MAGIC® by MERCK, the silica / brown iron oxide structure pigments marketed under the name XIRONA INDIAN SUMMER® by MERCK, and the silica / titanium dioxide / mica / tin dioxide structure pigments marketed under the name XIRONA CARIBBEAN BLUE® by MERCK. Another example is the INFINITE COLORS pigments from SHISEIDO. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained.Thus, with the Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3 structure, the color changes from golden-green to grey-red for SiO2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to gold for SiO2 layers of 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO2 layers of 410 to 420 nm; and from copper to red for SiO2 layers of 430 to 440 nm.

[0116] Examples of pigments with a polymer multilayer structure include those marketed by 3M under the name COLOR GLITTER®.

[0117] As liquid crystal goniochromatic particles, one can use, for example, those sold by the company CHENIX, as well as those marketed under the name HELICONE® HC by the company WACKER. Hydrophobic coated pigments

[0118] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one pigment coated by at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound and in particular as detailed below.

[0119] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous because it can be used in large quantities in conjunction with a large quantity of water. Moreover, when treated with a hydrophobic compound, it exhibits a predominant affinity for the oil phase, which can then carry it.

[0120] Of course, the compositions according to the invention may also contain uncoated pigments.

[0121] The coating may also include at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0122] For the purposes of the invention, the "coating" of a pigment according to the invention generally refers to the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment by a surfactant, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

[0123] Surface-treated pigments can be prepared using surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechano-chemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used.

[0124] The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by eva- solvent porosity, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

[0125] According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of coating the pigments.

[0126] The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% % by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigment.

[0127] The coating can be achieved for example by adsorption of a liquid surfactant to the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing under agitation of the particles and said surfactant, possibly hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or skincare composition.

[0128] The coating can be achieved, for example, by a chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and the creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266.

[0129] The chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigments. Lipophilic or hydrophobic treatment agent

[0130] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated according to the invention by at least one compound selected from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-siliconized surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0131] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic treatment agent can be chosen from metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, and aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate;

[0132] As examples of metallic soaps, one can cite in particular metallic soaps of fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular those having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0133] The metal of the metallic soap may in particular be zinc or magnesium.

[0134] As a metallic soap, zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof may be used.

[0135] The hydrophobic treatment agent can also be chosen from ii) fatty acids such as lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid.

[0136] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic treatment agent can be selected from N-acylated amino acids or their salts, which may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a group 2-Ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl.

[0137] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine.

[0138] The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts.

[0139] Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, an N-acylated amino acid derivative can be in particular a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, such as for example aluminium stearoyl glutamate.

[0140] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic treatment agent can be chosen from lecithin and its derivatives.

[0141] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic treatment agent may be isopropyl triisostearyl titanate.

[0142] Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) include those sold under the trade reference BWB0-I2® (Iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWY0-I2® (Iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), and BWR0-I2® (Iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by the company KOBO.

[0143] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be vi) isostearyl sebacate.

[0144] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic treatment agent may be isostearyl sebacate

[0145] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic treatment agent can be chosen from natural vegetable or animal waxes or polar synthetic waxes;

[0146] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic treatment agent can be chosen from fatty esters, in particular from jojoba esters;

[0147] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic treatment agent can be chosen from among the phospholipids.

[0148] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylated amino acid and / or one of its salts, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, notably a stearoyl glutamate, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate. Examples of pigments coated according to the invention include titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example, marketed under the reference NAI® by MIYOSHI KASEI.

[0149] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments are coated with a perfluoroalkyl triethoxysilane such as perfluorohexylethyl triethoxysilane and perfluorooctyl triethoxysilane. Examples of coated pigments according to the invention include, in particular, titanium dioxide and iron oxide. coated with Perfluorohexylethyl Triethoxysilane or Perfluorooctyl Triethoxysilane, for example marketed under the references FHS-5 Sunpuro® by the company Daito Kasei Kogyo).

[0150] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention may contain at least one organic pigment.

[0151] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigment. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from among the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0152] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, orange pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, red pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives,phenolic compounds as described in French patent FR 2 679 771.

[0153] These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EPI 184426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of the organic pigments on the core.

[0154] The pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer, we mean insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0155] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.

[0156] Among organic colorants, cochineal carmine may be mentioned. Other products known by the following names may also be mentioned: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Bine 1 (CI 42 090).

[0157] Examples of lacquers include the product known as D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850 :1). Additives

[0158] The compositions according to the invention may include, in addition to additives commonly used in skincare and / or makeup products such as solar UV filters; fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol, moisturizing agents such as polyols such as glycerin, propanediol, pentylene glycol; fillers; fat-soluble coloring materials; fat-phase thickening or gelling agents; antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes and mixtures thereof. cosmetic compositions

[0159] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a composition as defined above.

[0160] By "physiologically acceptable medium", we mean a medium particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to the skin.

[0161] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance in which the composition is to be packaged. Applications

[0162] According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a care and / or makeup composition for keratinous materials such as skin, in particular areas of the face, especially eyelids or cheeks.

[0163] Thus, according to a sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously take the form of a basic composition for makeup.

[0164] A composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a skin makeup composition, particularly for the face. It may thus be an eyeshadow or a blush.

[0165] Such compositions are notably prepared according to the general knowledge of the person skilled in the art.

[0166] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples and figures shown below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities shown are expressed as percentages. mass.

[0167] Example 1 (invention) and examples 1a and 1b (non-invention): eyeshadows

[0168] Composition 1 was prepared according to the preparation protocol described below.

[0169] [Tables 1] Ingredients Example 1% by weight Example la% by weight Example 1b % by weight ETHYLCELLULOSE (AQUALON EC N7 PHARM®-ASHLAND) 24.79 24.79 24.79 ETHYL LINOLEATE (VITAMIN F / EE® - OLEON) 8.41 8.41 DIISOSTEARYL MALATE (SCHERCEMOL DISM ESTER -LUBRIZOL) 8.41 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DLT-BUTYL HYDROXYHYDRO-CINNAMATE (Tinoguard TT® -BASF) 0.25 0.25 0.25 POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIL SOSTEARATE (LAMEFORM TGI® - BASF) 33.57 33.57 33.57 SQUALANE (NEOSSANCE SQUALANE®-AMYRIS) 9.64 0 9.64 ALCOHOL 15 15 15 ISODODECANE QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 Preparation protocol

[0170] In a beaker, the non-volatile ester oil (Ethyl Linoleate or Diisostearate Malate), the antioxidant, and the Polyglyceryl-3 Diisosterate were introduced, followed by the addition of ethyl cellulose. The mixture was then homogenized using a deflocculating stirrer to deagglomerate and thoroughly wet the polymer. At this stage, a thick, creamy-white suspension was obtained. The alcohol was added, and the mixture was homogenized again using a deflocculating stirrer until a more or less transparent, colorless to pale yellow gel was formed. The isododecane, and if necessary the squalane, were added slowly in a steady stream to allow their gradual integration into the gel. Once all of these With solvents introduced, the mixture was stirred until a homogeneous gel was obtained.

[0171] At 25°C, for each of the examples 1 (invention) and the non-invention counter-examples 1a, 1b, the following characteristics of each composition were evaluated according to the measurement protocols detailed above:

[0172] - the value of sticky

[0173] - gloss at 60°, 15 min, 2 hours and 7 hours after application

[0174] - freezing time

[0175] The results are shown in the table below.

[0176] [Tables2] Measured Characteristics: Tack Value (Newtons, seconds) Gloss 60° (gloss units) Setting Time (seconds) at 15 minutes at 2 hours at 7 hours Example 1 (invention) with Ethyl linoleate and squalane 0.4+ / -0.1 63 + / -4 64 + / - 5 64 + / - 5 30 Example 1a (not part of the invention) with Ethyl linoleate without squalane 0.8 + / -0.1 77 + / -2 78 + / -2 76 + / -1 30 Example 1b (not part of the invention) with Diisostearyl Malate and with squalane 0.3 + / -0.1 35 + / -3 34 + / -1 31 + / -3 120

[0177] The results showed that Example 1 of the invention comprising Ethyl cellulose, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, ethanol, isododecane, squalane and as a non-volatile ester oil Ethyl linoleate produces after application a film with intense gloss for 7 hours, satisfactory adhesion, low stickiness and a short film surface setting time of less than or equal to 30 seconds.

[0178] The results showed that the counter-type example outside the invention, not containing squalane, produced a stickier film after application. They thus confirm the technical contribution of squalane to reducing the stickiness of the film.

[0179] The results also showed that the off-invention countertype example 1b in which the non-volatile ester oil used was Diisostearyl Malate produced a low gloss film with a very long surface settling time: 2 minutes.

Claims

Claims

1. Anhydrous composition for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the areas of the face, in particular the eyelids or the cheeks, comprising, preferably in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) ethylcellulose; and b) at least one mono-alcohol, linear or branched, comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and c) at least one monoester or diester of a linear or branched C12-C18 carboxylic acid and of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 6 units, preferably 2 or 3 glycerol units; and d) a liquid fatty phase comprising i) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; and ii) at least one non-volatile oil of the alkane type; and iii) at least one non-volatile ester oil chosen from unsaturated esters of linoleic acid or oleic acid and of a linear or branched C1-C10 alkanol;said composition being in the form of a gel whose modulus G* (viscoelastic modulus) is between 100 and 3000 Pa for a phase shift angle of between 30 and 60°;

2. Composition according to claim 1, where the ethylcellulose content preferably varies from 10 to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 15 to 25% by weight, and more particularly from 18 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, where the C2-C6 mono-alcohol is chosen from isopropanol, ethanol, butanol, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly ethanol.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of mono-alcohol(s) varies from 10 to 25% by weight, preferably from 12 to 18% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one diester of linear or branched C12-C18 carboxylic acid and polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 6 glycerol units, preferably 2 or 3 glycerol units, in particular those chosen from Polyglyceryl-5 Dilaurate, Polyglyceryl-6 Di-palmitate, Polyglyceryl-2 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, and their mixtures, and more particularly Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of monoester or diester of C12-C18 carboxylic acid and of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 6 glycerol units varies from 5 to 45% by weight, preferably from 20 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from branched C8-C16 alkanes, and more particularly is isododecane.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the volatile hydrocarbon oil i) is chosen from linear C6-C14 alkanes, in particular from n-hexane, n-heptane, n-octane, n-nonane, n-decane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the volatile hydrocarbon oil or oils ii) are present at contents of less than or equal to 25.0% by weight, preferably ranging from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the non-volatile alkane oil ii) is chosen from linear or branched alkanes comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular chosen from - liquid linear or branched paraffins comprising from 18 to 32 carbon atoms, - squalane; - isoeicosane; - mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-volatile alkane oil or oils ii) are present at contents of less than or equal to 15.0% by weight, preferably ranging from 3 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

12. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the linoleic acid ester oil iii) is selected from Methyl Linoleate, Ethyl Linoleate, Isopropyl Linoleate; and mixtures thereof.

13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the oleic acid ester oil iii) is chosen from Butyl Oleate, Decyl Oleate, Ethylhexyl Oleate, Ethyl Oleate, Isobutyl Oleate, Isodecyl Oleate, Isopropyl Oleate, Methyl Oleate; and their mixtures.

14. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the non-volatile ester oil iii) is Ethyl Linoleate.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-volatile ester oil or oils iii) are present at contents of less than 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 2 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, additionally comprising at least one pigment, white or colored, mineral or organic, coated or uncoated.

17. Composition according to claim 14, comprising at least 0.01% by weight of pigment(s), more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight of pigment(s), in particular from 0.2 to 1% by weight and preferably from 0.2 to 0.5% by weight of pigment(s), relative to the total weight of said composition.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, having the following characteristics: 1) a tack value less than or equal to 0.01 Ns, preferably less than or equal to 0.005 N. s; and 2) a gloss greater than or equal to 50 gloss units at 60°, preferably ranging from 60 to 85 gloss units; and 3) a setting time of the surface of the film formed by the composition on the keratin material or a synthetic substrate, preferably less than 1 minute, more preferably less than or equal to 30 seconds.

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in the form of a gel whose modulus G* (viscoelastic modulus) is between 100 and 3000 Pa for a phase shift angle of between 30 and 60°, more particularly between 500 and 2800 Pa, for a phase shift angle of between 30 and 50°.

20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of an eyeshadow or a blush.

21. Process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular areas of the face, in particular the eyelids or cheeks, characterized in that it comprises the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined in any one of the previous claims.