COMPOSITION FOR THE CARE AND / OR MAKE-UP OF KERATIN MATERIALS

Abstract

Composition for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, comprising: (i) relative to the total weight of the composition, at least 0.6% by weight of at least one first surfactant selected from silicone surfactants; (ii) at least one second surfactant different from the first surfactant and different from C14-C22 saturated fatty acids; (iii) at least one structuring agent selected from C14-C22 saturated fatty acids and (iv) at least one saponifier, the weight ratio of the structuring agent to the second surfactant being between 0.2 and 2.0. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care of keratin materials, comprising the application of said composition to the skin. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION FOR THE CARE AND / OR MAKE-UP OF KERATIN MATERIALS Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials. RELATED ART

[0002] The skin is the protective barrier of the human body. It protects the inside of the body from physical injuries (such as trauma) and biological damage (such as bacteria, viruses or fungi).

[0003] The development of formulas dedicated to the care and / or makeup of the skin and / or lips is ongoing.

[0004] For example, efforts have been made to formulate compositions in the form of creams or emulsions.

[0005] Some products tend to foam when applied, which is unpleasant for consumers.

[0006] As a commercial product, it is desirable that the product be stable at room temperature and even at high temperatures, for example above 45°C.

[0007] However, for certain emulsions such as water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions, phase separation occurs easily.

[0008] It is therefore necessary to formulate a composition for skin care and / or makeup, which does not foam during application and is stable at a relatively high temperature, for example 45°C. Summary of the invention

[0009] The inventors have now discovered that it is possible to formulate a composition for skin care, which does not foam during application and is stable at a relatively high temperature, for example 45°C.

[0010] Therefore, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, comprising:

[0011] (i) relative to the total weight of the composition, at least 0.6% by weight of at least a first surfactant selected from silicone surfactants;

[0012] (ii) at least one second surfactant different from the first surfactant and different from C14-C22 saturated fatty acids;

[0013] (iii) at least one structuring agent selected from C14-C22 saturated fatty acids and

[0014] (iv) at least one saponifier,

[0015] the weight ratio of the structuring agent to the second surfactant being between 0.2 and 2.0.

[0016] The composition of the present invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. Thus, said composition comprises a continuous aqueous phase and a dispersed fatty phase.

[0017] The inventors found that the composition of the present invention had a lamellar or liquid crystal structure.

[0018] The composition of the present invention does not foam during application and is stable at a relatively high temperature, for example 45°C.

[0019] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for the care of keratin materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratin materials.

[0020] Other advantages of the present invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. Brief description of the drawings

[0021] Below are, by way of example only, implementations of the present invention with reference to the drawings, in which:

[0022] [Fig.l] [Fig.l] shows a photograph of the composition of the invention, example 1 (IE.1), taken by polarized light microscopy. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0023] Unless otherwise indicated, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art in the field to which the present invention relates. Where the definition of a term in the present invention conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art in the field to which the present invention relates, the definition described in the present invention shall apply.

[0024] As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included within that range, particularly in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0025] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

[0026] Throughout the present application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted to encompass all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional and unspecified features. As used in the herein, the term "comprising" also designates the embodiment in which no feature other than the specifically mentioned features is present (i.e. "consisting of").

[0027] Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients, reaction conditions, etc. used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "about". Therefore, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​which may be modified depending on the intended purpose, if necessary.

[0028] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratin material" is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes such as the lips. According to the present invention, facial skin is particularly considered.

[0029] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise indicated, to a weight percentage.

[0030] According to the first aspect, the present invention provides a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, comprising;

[0031] (i) relative to the total weight of the composition, at least 0.6% by weight of at least a first surfactant selected from silicone surfactants;

[0032] (ii) at least one second surfactant different from the first surfactant and different from the C14-C22 saturated fatty acids;

[0033] (iii) at least one structuring agent selected from C14-C22 saturated fatty acids and

[0034] (iv) at least one saponifier,

[0035] the weight ratio of the structuring agent to the second surfactant being between 0.2 and 2.0. First surfactant

[0036] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one first surfactant selected from silicone surfactants.

[0037] The term "silicone surfactant" means a silicone compound comprising at least one oxyalkylene chain. In a preferred embodiment, the silicone surfactant comprises at least one oxyethylene (-OCH2CH2-) and / or oxypropylene (-OCH2CH2CH2-) chain.

[0038] These silicone surfactants may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric silicone surfactants. Reference may be made to the document “Encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer”, volume 22, pp. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the properties and (emulsifying) functions of surfactants, in particular pp. 347-377 of this reference, for the anionic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants.

[0039] The silicone surfactants preferably used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from:

[0040] a) silicone non-ionic surfactants whose HLB is greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C, used alone or in a mixture, in particular:

[0041] polydimethylsiloxanes comprising both oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene groups. Examples that may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxane with oxyethylene / oxypropylene end groups marketed as a mixture with caprylic / capric acid triglycerides under the name Abil Care 85 by Goldschmidt (INCI name: Bis-PEG / PPG-16 / 16 PEG / PPG-16 / 16 dimethicone / caprylic / capric triglyceride), polydimethylsiloxane containing alpha-omega polyether groups (EO / OP:40 / 60), marketed under the name Abil B8832 by Goldschmidt (INCI name: Bis-PEG / PPG-20 / 20 dimethicone), and oxyethylated oxypropylated polydimethylsiloxane marketed under the name Abil B88184 by Goldschmidt (INCI name: PEG / PPG-20 / 6 dimethicone),

[0042] dimethicone copolyol under the INCI name PEG / PPG-17 / 18 dimethicone, such as the product marketed under the name Q2-5220 Resin Modifier® by the company Dow Corning,

[0043] dimethicone copolyol benzoate https: / / chemical.zhihuiya.com / chemical_data / detail?inchi_key=WPYMKLBDIGXBTP -UHFFFAOYSA-M&locale=cn (Finsolv SLB 101° and 201® from Finetex),

[0044] and mixtures thereof;

[0045] b) amphoteric silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyol phosphates, such as the product marketed under the name Pecosil PS 100® by the company Phoenix Chemical;

[0046] c) and mixtures thereof.

[0047] HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance), in the sense of Griffin, is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.

[0048] Preferably, the first surfactant is selected from polydimethylsiloxanes comprising both oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene groups, dimethicone copolyol, dimethicone copolyol benzoate https: / / chemical.zhihuiya.com / chemical_data / detail?inchi_key=WPYMKLBDIGXBTP -UHFFFAOYSA-M&locale=cn, dimethicone copolyol phosphates and mixtures thereof.

[0049] According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone surfactant is chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes comprising both oxyethylene and oxypropylene groups, dimethicone copolyol and mixtures thereof.

[0050] Better still, the silicone surfactant is chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes comprising oxyethylene and oxypropylene groups.

[0051] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the silicone surfactant is BIS-PEG / PPG-16 / 16 PEG / PPG-16 / 16 DIMETHICONE.

[0052] Advantageously, the first surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.6% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.8% by weight to 8% by weight, better still from 0.8% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] The inventors have found that with the presence of 0.6% by weight of silicone surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention, the composition does not foam during application. Second surfactants

[0054] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one second surfactant different from the first surfactant and different from the C14-C22 saturated fatty acids.

[0055] Preferably, the second surfactant is selected from

[0056] - mono and polyglyceryl esters of a fatty acid or their ethoxylated derivatives;

[0057] - polyol esters with saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acids;

[0058] - sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylated derivatives;

[0059] - esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose or their ethoxylated derivatives;

[0060] - sucrose esters;

[0061] - ethers of a sugar and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, such as caprylyl / capryl glucoside;

[0062] - C14-C24 fatty alcohols;

[0063] - polyoxyethylene alkyl ether carboxylic acids, such as car- carboxylic Laureth-5;

[0064] - a polyoxyethylated fatty alcohol containing from 6 to 12 oxyethylene units, such as Laureth-9;

[0065] - a polyoxyalkylated derivative of monoglyceryl ester of a fatty acid such as PEG- 20 glyceryl triisostearate;

[0066] - sarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate;

[0067] - a polyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester and

[0068] - mixtures of these.

[0069] As polyglycerol esters (a) of fatty acid(s), mention should be made of products containing 2 to 10 glycerol units, such as polyglyceryl monolaurate, oleate, myristate, caprylate or stearate comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono(iso)stearate comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl dioleate comprising 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl dioleate comprising 2 to 10 glyceryl units, polyglyceryl dilaurating comprising 2 to 10 glyceryl units comprising 2 to 10 glyceryl units, polyglyceryl trioleate comprising 2 to 10 glyceryl units, polyglyceryl tricaprylate comprising 2 to 10 glyceryl units.

[0070] Polyglyceryl esters include polyglyceryl esters of saturated, unsaturated, and branched C16-C22 fatty acids, such as polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, poly-glyceryl-2 sesquioleate, triglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl monooleate, tetraglyceryl monooleate, or mixtures thereof.

[0071] Monoglyceryl esters include, in particular, glyceryl monoesters, preferably glyceryl monoesters of saturated, unsaturated and branched C16-C22 chain fatty acids, such as glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate or derivatives thereof.

[0072] Mention may be made, as monoglyceric esters of fatty acids, of glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and / or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate or mixtures thereof, or mention may be made, as polyoxyalkylene derivatives, of mono-, di- or triester of fatty acids with a polyoxyalkylated glycerol (mono-, di- or triester of fatty acids with a polyalkylene glycol ether), preferably of polyethylethyl glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and / or tristearate), such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, tristearate and / or triisostearate). Preferably, the polyoxyalkylated fatty acid monoglyceryl ester derivative comprises 10 to 40 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate.

[0073] The second surfactant may be chosen from polyol esters with saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acids containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives, preferably containing from 10 to 200, or better still from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units, such as monoglyceryl esters or polyglyceryl esters of a C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty acid and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, or better still from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; sorbitol esters of a C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty acid or polyoxyalkylene derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, or more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units;sugar (sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose and / or alkylglycose) esters of a C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty acid or polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, or more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers of a C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty alcohol or alcohols or mixtures thereof. ;

[0074] Mixtures of these surfactants can also be used, such as for example product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by Croda, and a product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate marketed under the name TEGIN by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).

[0075] The sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylated derivatives may be selected from sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate and alkoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters containing, for example, from 20 to 100 EO, such as, for example, sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), marketed by ICI under the name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate), marketed by ICI under the name Span 40, or sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 65), marketed by ICI under the name Tween65, polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85) or compounds marketed under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60 by Uniqema.

[0076] Mention may be made, as esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose, of glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates such as methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates such as methylglucose or ethylglucose palmitate, fatty esters of methylglucoside, diester of methylglucoside and oleic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate), mixed ester of methyl glucoside and the mixture of oleic acid / hydroxystearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate / hydroxystearate), ester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose isostearate), ester of methylglucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose isostearate), the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose sesquiisostearate), the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucoside and stearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquistearate),and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucate SS by AMERCHOL, and their mixtures.

[0077] Mention may be made, for example, as ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose, of ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and methylglucose, and in particular the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methylglucose and stearic acid with approximately 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) such as the product sold under the name Glucam E-20 distearate by AMERCHOL, the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucose and stearic acid with approximately 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product sold under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by AMERCHOL and that sold under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by GOLDSCHMIDT, or mixtures of the latter.

[0078] Examples of sucrose esters that may be mentioned are sucrose palmitostearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose monolaurate.

[0079] It is possible in particular to use, as sugar ethers, alkylpolyglucosides, and for example ethers of a sugar and of C8-C24 fatty alcohols, in particular decylglucoside such as the product sold under the name MYDOL 10 by Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name PLATAREN 2000 by Henkel, and the product sold under the name ORAMIX NS 10 by Seppic, caprylyl / capryl glucoside such as the product sold under the name ORAMIX CG 110 by Seppic or under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 by BASF, laurylglucoside such as the products sold under the names PLANTAREN 1200 N and PLANTACARE 1200 by Henkel, coco-glucoside such as the product sold under the name PLANTACARE 818 / UP by Henkel, cetostearyl glucoside optionally in a mixture with cetos-tearyl alcohol, marketed, for example, under the name MONTANOV 68 by Seppic, under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE3302 by Henkel, arachidyl glucoside,for example in the form of the mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and arachidyl glucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV 202 by Seppic, cocoylethylglucoside, for example in the form of the mixture (35 / 65) with cetyl and stearyl alcohols, marketed under the name MONTANOV 82 by Seppic or mixtures of the latter.

[0080] As C14-C24 fatty alcohols, mention may be made of stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0081] Preferably, the polyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester is a polyethylene glycol ester comprising from 1 to 200 oxyethylene groups and a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably, the polyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester is selected from polyethylene glycol 2 EO monostearate or polyethylene glycol 100 monostearate (PEG-100 stearate).

[0082] The second surfactant is preferably chosen from monoglyceric and polyglyceric esters of a fatty acid, ethers of a sugar and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, polyalkylene glycol fatty acid esters, C14-C24 fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.

[0083] Advantageously, the second surfactant is selected from glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl glucoside and mixtures thereof.

[0084] Advantageously, the second surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.2% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.4% by weight to 15% by weight, and better still from 0.8% by weight to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Structuring agents

[0085] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one structuring agent selected from C14-C22 saturated fatty acids.

[0086] Examples of C14-C22 saturated fatty acids include myristic acid, pentadecanoic acid, palmitic acid, heptadenoic acid, stearic acid, cetearyl acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid and a combination thereof.

[0087] Preferably, the structuring agent is selected from C14-C18 saturated fatty acids.

[0088] Preferably, the structuring agent is selected from linear and saturated C14-C18 fatty acids.

[0089] In particular, preferably, the structuring agent is chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and a combination thereof.

[0090] Advantageously, the structuring agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, better still from 1.3% by weight to 10% by weight, better still from 1.3% by weight to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Saponifiers

[0091] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one saponifier.

[0092] The saponifier can be used to react with a C14-C22 saturated fatty acid to produce a salt.

[0093] The saponifier may be, for example, inorganic bases, such as alkali metal hydroxides (e.g., sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide), alkaline earth metal hydroxides (e.g., magnesium hydroxide) or ammonium hydroxide, or organic bases, for example, monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tromethamine, N-methylglucamine, arginine, lysine and arginine.

[0094] Sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate and potassium bicarbonate may also be mentioned.

[0095] Preferably, the saponifier is chosen from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tromethamine, N-methylglucamine, arginine, lysine, arginine and mixtures thereof.

[0096] Advantageously, the saponifier is present in an amount ranging from 0.05% by weight to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 0.8% by weight, better still from 0.15% by weight to 0.6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0097] Advantageously, the weight ratio of the structuring agent relative to the second surfactant is from 0.2 to 2.0, preferably from 0.4 to 1.5. Aqueous phase

[0098] As an oil-water emulsion, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises a continuous aqueous phase.

[0099] This aqueous phase comprises water.

[0100] Preferably, the continuous aqueous phase comprises a water-miscible organic solvent (at room temperature 25°C) such as glycerin and glycols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0101] Advantageously, said aqueous phase is present in an amount of between 30% and 95% by weight, preferably 35% to 90% by weight, better still 40% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fat phase

[0102] As an oil-in-water emulsion, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one dispersed oily phase.

[0103] This fatty phase preferably comprises at least one oil.

[0104] The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0105] In this document, the term "oil" denotes a non-aqueous, water-immiscible substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The expression "non-volatile oil" denotes an oil that can remain on keratin materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and that in particular has a vapor pressure of less than 103 mmHg (0.13 Pa). A non-volatile oil may also be defined as having an evaporation rate such that, under the conditions defined above, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg / cm2.

[0106] These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0107] This oil can be selected from hydrocarbon, silicone or fluorinated oils.

[0108] The expression "hydrocarbon-based oil" designates an oil formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly O and N atoms, and free of Si and F heteroatoms. This oil may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0109] The term “silicone oil” means an oil containing at least one atom of silicon, especially containing Si-O groups.

[0110] The term “fluorinated oil” means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

[0111] Preferably, the oil is selected from hydrocarbon-based oils, such as such as isohexadecane, squalane, caprylic / capric triglyceride, isonyl isononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, myristyl myristate, and silicone oils, such as dimethicone.

[0112] The fatty phase may also comprise a non-oily fatty substance, for example butters and waxes, such as butyrospermum parkii butter, cera alba and beeswax, in order to create texture and provide a suitable skin finish.

[0113] Advantageously, the fatty phase is present in an amount ranging from 2% by weight to 40% by weight, preferably from 8% by weight to 35% by weight, better still from 10% by weight to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Active cosmetic ingredients

[0114] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises a cosmetic active ingredient.

[0115] Examples of active cosmetic ingredients include natural extracts; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), and derivatives of said vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; C glycosides such as hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol; salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid or glycolic acid and its derivatives; sunscreens; extracts of algae, fungi, plants, yeasts and bacteria; enzymes; moisturizing agents such as sodium hyaluronate and sodium acetylated hyaluronate, agents acting on microcirculation and mixtures thereof.

[0116] It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the amount of the additional cosmetic active ingredient based on the end use of the composition according to the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0117] The composition of the present invention may comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, perfumes, preservatives (for example, chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, thickeners, pH regulators and mixtures thereof.

[0118] A person skilled in the art can choose the amount of conventional adjuvants or additives so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0119] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0120] (i) from 0.8% by weight to 5% by weight of at least one first selected surfactant among polydimethylsiloxanes comprising both oxyethylene groups and oxypropylene groups,

[0121] (ii) from 0.8% by weight to 12% by weight of at least one second surfactant selected from mono- and polyglyceryl esters of a fatty acid, ethers of a sugar and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, polyalkylene glycol fatty acid esters, C14-C24 fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof and

[0122] (iii) from 1.3% by weight to 6% by weight of at least one structuring agent selected from linear and saturated C14-C18 fatty acids and

[0123] (iv) from 0.15% by weight to 0.6% by weight of at least one saponifier selected from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tromethamine, N-methylglucamine, arginine, lysine, arginine and a combination thereof,

[0124] the weight ratio of the structuring agent to the second surfactant being between 0.2 and 2.0. Galenic form and method

[0125] The composition of the present invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0126] The composition according to the present invention has a lamellar structure.

[0127] The expression "lamellar structure" designates a liquid crystalline structure or a hydrated lamellar phase, swollen or not, with plane symmetry, comprising several amphiphilic layers arranged in parallel and separated by a liquid medium which is generally water.

[0128] The composition of the present invention can be used for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials.

[0129] According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratin materials.

[0130] The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, being of a limiting nature. EXAMPLES

[0131] The main raw materials used, the trade names and the suppliers of these materials are listed in Table 1. 13

[0132] [Tables 1] Nom INCI Nom commercial Fournisseur GLYCERYL STEARATE (et) PEG-100 STEARATE ARLACEL™ 165 CRODA POLYACRYLATE DE SODIUM COVACRYL® MV60 SENSIENT STEARIC ACID PALMAC® 50-18 / MB IOI GROUP OLEO- CHEMICALS POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE LESSIVE DE POTASSE 50% QUARON ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (et) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (et) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE MONTANOV 202 SEPPIC BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER FAIR FOR LIFE REFINED SHEA BUTTER OLVEA ISONONYL ISO- NONANOATE ERCAREL ISN / O ERCA PENTAERYTHRITYL TE-TRAISOSTÉARATE JOLEE7181 OLEON MYRISTYL MYRISTATE TEGOSOFT® MM EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT CHLORPHENESIN MACROCIDE-OL MACROCARE BEESWAX CERABEIL LOR BAERLOCHER (CERESINE) XANTHAN GUM KELTROL® CG-T CP KELCO DIMÉTHICONE Fluide DOWSIL™ SH 200 5 CST DOW CORNING (DOW CHEMICAL) HYDROXYPROPYL TE- TRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL MEXORYL SCS CHIMEX (NOVEAL) BIS-PEG / PPG-16 / 16 PEG / PPG-16 / 16 DIMETHICONE (et) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC ABIL CARE 85 EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT TRIGLYCERIDE

[0133]

[0134] Invention Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 2 The compositions of Invention Examples (EI) 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples (CE) 1 to 2 were prepared according to the quantities indicated in Table 2. The quantity of each component is given in % by weight of the total weight of the composition containing it.

[0135] [Tables2] Phase INCI US CE.l CE.2 ELI EI.2 EI.3 A POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE 0.28 0.28 0.28 0.12 0.20 WATER Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 GLYCERIN 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 7.00 CHLORPHENESIN 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 B STEARIC ACID 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 1.50 GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE1' 1.60 1.60 1.60 0.80 0.80 BEESWAX 2.73 2.73 2.73 2.73 2.40 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER 3.55 3.55 3.55 3.55 3.10 ISONONYL ISO- NONANOATE 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 - PENTAERYTHRITYL TE-TRAISOSTEARATE 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 0.40 ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (and) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE2' 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 BIS-PEG / PPG-16 / 16 PEG / PPG-16 / 16 DIMETHICONE (and) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE3' / 0.45 0.90 0.90 0.80 MYRISTYL MYRISTATE 1.23 1.23 1.23 1.23 1.10 C Xanthan Gum 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Dimethicone 2.50 2.50 2.50 1.00 1.00 Sodium polyacrylate 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0,80 D HYDROXYPROPYL TE- TRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL4' 20.00 20.00 20.00 20.00 20.00, Fatty acid / second surfactant weight ratio* 0.83 0.83 0.83 1.07 0.54

[0136] GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE1': comprising 50% by weight of GLYCERYL STEARATE1 and 50% by weight of PEG-100 STEARATE.

[0137] ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (and) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE21: comprising 55% by weight of ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL, 30% by weight of BEHENYL ALCOHOL and 15% by weight of ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE.

[0138] BIS-PEG / PPG-16 / 16 PEG / PPG-16 / 16 DIMETHICONE (and) CA-PRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE3': comprising 87% by weight of BIS-PEG / PPG-16 / 16 PEG / PPG-16 / 16 DIMETHICONE and 12.98% by weight of CA-PRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE.

[0139] HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL4) is HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL in water and propylene glycol at a weight content of 70% by weight relative to the total weight of HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL and water and propylene glycol.

[0140] *The second surfactant comprises GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE and ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (and) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE.

[0141] The compositions of inventive examples 1 to 3 are compositions according to the present invention.

[0142] The composition of comparative example 1 does not include silicone surfactant.

[0143] The composition of Comparative Example 2 comprises 0.45% by weight of surfactant silicone relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0144] Preparation procedure:

[0145] The compositions listed above were prepared as follows:

[0146] 1) by weighing the ingredients of phase A in a container and mixing them to obtain a transparent mixture, then stirring at 75°C at a stirring speed of 500 rpm until a yellowish transparent liquid is obtained;

[0147] 2) by heating the Phase B premix to 85°C, then adding it to the liquid yellowish transparent at 75°C at a stirring speed of 1500 rpm and mixing for 10 minutes to obtain a white emulsion;

[0148] 3) adding the phase C premix at 75°C at a stirring speed of 1500 rpm to obtain a white emulsion;

[0149] 4) by adding phase D at 70°C at a stirring speed of 1500 rpm for obtain a fine white cream, then cooling to room temperature while stirring to obtain the composition. Assessment

[0150] Each composition of inventive examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 2 was evaluated in terms of lamellar structure, foaming and stability. Lamellar structure

[0151] The formation of a lamellar structure was evaluated as follows.

[0152] The compositions were observed using a Leica DLMB microscope under 90° cross-polarized light and microscopic images were taken. If optical effects characteristic of the lamellar structure were observed, this means that the lamellar structure was formed.

[0153] [Fig.l] shows a photograph of the composition of the invention, example 1 (IE.1), taken by polarized light microscopy.

[0154] [Fig.l] shows that a lamellar structure is formed in the compositions of inventive example 1.

[0155] Similar photographs were also obtained for the compositions of Invention Examples 2-3 (IE.2-3) and Comparative Examples 1-2.

[0156] The results of the lamellar structure of each composition prepared above were listed in Table 3.

[0157] [Tables3] Element CE. 1 CE. 2 EL 1 El. 2 EI.3 lamellar structure YES YES YES YES YES Foaming

[0158] The compositions prepared above were applied to a hand to observe the presence of foaming during application.

[0159] The results regarding foaming have been summarized in Table 4.

[0160] [Tables4] Formula CE.l CE.2 ELI EI.2 EI.3 Foaming Yes A little foam No No No Stability

[0161] Stability was assessed as follows:

[0162] The appearance of each composition prepared above was observed immediately after preparation at room temperature or when stored at 45°C for 2 months.

[0163] If there is recrystallization of the wax at room temperature or at 45°C, the stability test fails and there is no recrystallization of the wax at room temperature and at 45°C, the stability test passes.

[0164] The results regarding stability have been summarized in Table 5.

[0165] [Tables5] Formula CE.l CE.2 ELI EI.2 EI.3 Appearance RT T0* No wax No wax No wax No wax No wax 45^C T2M** No wax No wax No wax No wax No wax Stability Pass Pass Pass Pass Pass

[0166] RT T0*: immediately after preparation of the composition to be tested.

[0167] 45^C T2M**: in case of storage at 45^C for 2 months.

[0168] It can be seen that the compositions of the invention examples 1 to 3 are stable and do not foam during application.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion intended for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) from 0.8% by weight to 5% by weight of BIS-PEG / PPG-16 / 16 PEG / PPG-16 / 16 DIMETHICONE, (ii) from 0.8% by weight to 12% by weight of at least one second surfactant selected from mono- and polyglyceryl esters of a fatty acid, ethers of a sugar and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, polyalkylene glycol fatty acid esters, C14-C24 fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof and (iii) from 1.3% by weight to 6% by weight of at least one structuring agent selected from linear and saturated C14-C18 fatty acids and (iv) 0.15% by weight to 0.6% by weight of at least one saponifier selected from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, tromethamine, N-methylglucamine, arginine, lysine,arginine and a combination thereof, the weight ratio of the structuring agent to the second surfactant being between 0.2 and 2.0.,

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the structuring agent is selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and a combination thereof.

3. Non-therapeutic method for the care of keratin materials, comprising the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2 to the keratin materials.

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