Composition comprising a non-ionic surfactant, a hydrocarbon oil, a butter and a wax

Abstract

Composition comprising a non-ionic surfactant, a hydrocarbon oil, a butter and a wax The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, in particular an anti-aging composition, comprising at least one non-ionic surfactant, at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, at least one cupuaçu butter and at least one wax. It also relates to an associated method and use. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising a non-ionic surfactant, a hydrocarbon oil, a butter and a wax

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, in particular an anti-aging composition, comprising at least one non-ionic surfactant, at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, at least one cupuaçu butter and at least one wax.

[0002] Human skin is made up of two compartments, namely a superficial compartment, the epidermis, and a deep compartment, the dermis.

[0003] The natural human epidermis is composed mainly of three types of cells: keratinocytes, which are the vast majority, melanocytes and Langerhans cells. Each of these cell types contributes, through its own functions, to the essential role played in the body by the skin. The dermis provides the epidermis with a solid support. It is also its nourishing element. It is mainly made up of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix itself composed mainly of collagen, elastin and a substance, called ground substance, components synthesized by the fibroblast.

[0004] It is the collagen fibers that ensure the solidity of the dermis, but also the elasticity and tone of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0005] Collagen fibers are constantly renewed, but this renewal decreases with age, resulting in a thinning of the dermis. In addition, various factors cause the degradation of collagen, with all the consequences that can be envisaged for the structure and / or firmness of the skin and / or mucous membranes. During the aging process, various characteristic signs appear on the skin, resulting in particular in a modification of the structure and functions of the skin. The main clinical signs of skin aging include the appearance of fine lines and / or wrinkles, which increase with age. These wrinkles and fine lines can be deep, medium or superficial, and result in a depression or furrows on the surface of the skin. In addition, there is a loss of volume in the upper part of the face, particularly in the cheekbones and cheeks.

[0006] Different solutions are used to combat skin aging. Among them, we find a variety of anti-aging cosmetic compositions. Some of these formulas include a high level of waxes and oils, and often have galenics with fingertip grips that are too firm - therefore sometimes difficult to pick up - as well as a greasy and heavy texture, with long penetration, i.e. they remain on the surface of the skin which results in a loss of time for the consumer's beauty routine, or too quickly absorbed, i.e. the consumer lacks time to spread the film on the skin, resulting in uneven application on the skin. In addition, the film of these compositions is perceived as greasy, shiny, thick and persistent.

[0007] To overcome this inconvenience, powders (i.e. fillers) are often introduced into the compositions. However, the combination of a film on the skin and fillers can generate fluffiness upon application. This can make it difficult to subsequently apply makeup in the beauty routine.

[0008] There is therefore a need for compositions having a soft and easy-to-grip texture, nourishing and enveloping, while having optimized penetration, and which do not fluff upon application. In particular, there is a need for compositions which form an enveloping film on the skin which is light, non-greasy and has a matte appearance, even without the use of fillers.

[0009] The inventors have now discovered that the introduction of a cupuaçu butter and at least one wax, such as beeswax, into oil-in-water emulsion compositions provides a nourishing and enveloping texture to the compositions, while having optimized penetration. On the skin, the film obtained is light and non-greasy, and does not fluff. The skin has a matte appearance, even without the use of fillers. Finally, the compositions are easy to pick up and apply.

[0010] Thus, the subject of the present invention is a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: at least one non-ionic surfactant, at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, at least one cupuaçu butter, and at least one wax.

[0011] The composition according to the invention is preferably cosmetic. Preferably, the composition is an anti-aging composition.

[0012] By “oil-in-water emulsion” is meant that the composition comprises an oily phase dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase.

[0013] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0014] The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention as an anti-aging composition. Non-ionic surfactant

[0015] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant. Preferably, it comprises at least two non-ionic surfactants.

[0016] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters, C8-C30 alkyl(poly)glycosides and mixtures thereof.

[0017] The non-ionic surfactant may be chosen from fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol. In this case, preferably, it also comprises an additional surfactant chosen from C16-C22 fatty acid esters of glyceryl.

[0018] The polyethylene glycol fatty acid ester is preferably a C16-C22 fatty acid ester comprising from 8 to 200 ethylene oxide units. The fatty chain of the esters may in particular be chosen from stearyl, behenyl, arachidyl, palmityl, cetyl units and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl, and preferably a stearyl chain.

[0019] The number of ethylene oxide units can range from 8 to 200, preferably from 10 to 150, and better still from 10 to 120. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, this number can range from 20 to 110.

[0020] As an example of a fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol, mention may be made of stearic acid esters comprising respectively 20, 30, 40, 50 or 100 ethylene oxide units, such as the products marketed respectively under the name Myrj 49 P (polyethylene glycol stearate 20 EO; CTFA name: PEG-20 stearate), Myrj 51, Myrj 52 P (polyethylene glycol stearate 40 EO; CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate), Myrj 53 or Myrj 59 P by the company CRODA.

[0021] The fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.5% to 8% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 0.8% to 3% by weight.

[0022] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises an additional emulsifying surfactant chosen from C16-C22 fatty acid and glyceryl esters.

[0023] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a glyceryl fatty acid ester, which can be obtained in particular from an acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain, having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. As glyceryl fatty acid ester, mention may in particular be made of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tristearate) (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate), glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the glyceryl fatty acid ester used is chosen from glyceryl stearates.

[0024] The glyceryl fatty acid ester may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 3% by weight.

[0025] The composition of the invention may comprise in particular a mixture of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 EO, and in particular that comprising a 50 / 50 mixture, marketed under the name Arlacel 165 by the company Croda.

[0026] The non-ionic surfactant can also be chosen from C8-C30 alkyl(poly)glycosides.

[0027] These surfactants can be more particularly represented by the following general formula:

[0028] RlO-(R2O)t (G)v

[0029] in which RI represents a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical comprising approximately 8 to 30 carbon atoms, an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 8 to 24 carbon atoms; R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising approximately 2 to 4 carbon atoms; G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms; t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably 0 to 4, preferably 0 to 3; and v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably 1 to 4.

[0030] It is further noted that each unit of the polysaccharide portion of the alkylpolyglycoside may be in the α or β isomeric form, in the L or D form, and the configuration of the saccharide residue may be of the furanoside or pyranoside type.

[0031] It is of course possible to use mixtures of alkylpolysaccharides, which may differ from each other by the nature of the alkyl unit carried and / or the nature of the carrying polysaccharide chain.

[0032] According to a particular embodiment, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are compounds of formula described above in which RI more particularly denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and more particularly still equal to 0, G can denote glucose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucan, cellulose or starch, preferably glucose. The degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v in the above formula, can range from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 4. The average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2.5, preferably from 1.05 to 2.5, and more preferably from 1.1 to 2.

[0033] The glucosidic bonds between the sugar units are of the 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably 1-4.

[0034] It is possible in particular to use coco(poly)glucoside (for example MONTANOV 82® and MONTANOV S®), arachidyl(poly)glucoside (for example MONTANOV 202®), Myristyl(poly)glucoside (for example MONTANOV 14®), cetylstearyl(poly)glucoside (or cetearyl(poly)glucoside) (for example MONTANOV 68®), C12-C20 alkyl(poly)glucosides (for example MONTANOV L®), isostearyl(poly)glucoside (for example Montanov WO 18®) or octyldodecyl(poly)xyloside (for example FLUIDANOV 20X®.

[0035] Cetylstearyl(poly)glucoside will be preferred as the commercial product MONTANOV 68®.

[0036] Preferably, the content of alkyl(poly)glycosides varies from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2 to 5%, better still from 0.25 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of surfactants chosen from a fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol, a glyceryl ester of C16-C22 fatty acid and a C8-C30 alkyl(poly)glycoside.

[0038] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least one ester of fatty acid and polyethylene glycol, of at least one ester of glyceryl and C16-C22 fatty acid and of at least one C8-C30 alkyl(poly)glycoside.

[0039] Preferably, the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) varies from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 2 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 4 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-volatile hydrocarbon oil

[0040] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[0041] By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 .105 Pa), immiscible with water.

[0042] By "immiscible" is meant that the mixture of the same quantity of water and oil, after stirring, does not lead to a stable solution comprising only one phase, under the aforementioned temperature and pressure conditions. The observation is made by eye or by means of a phase contrast microscope if necessary, on 100g of mixture obtained after Rayneri stirring sufficient to cause a vortex to appear within the mixture (for information 200 to 1000 rpm); the resulting mixture being left to stand, in a closed bottle, for 24 hours at room temperature before observation.

[0043] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at 25°C and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 103 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0044] By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms. Hydrocarbon oil is therefore distinct from silicone oil and fluorinated oil.

[0045] It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil is free of heteroatoms such as nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus.

[0046] In particular, this non-volatile hydrocarbon oil may comprise at least one alcohol function (it is then an “alcohol oil”) or at least one ester function (it This is then an “ester oil”).

[0047] Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil according to the invention is chosen from:

[0048] - C10-C26 alcohols;

[0049] - ester oils having between 17 and 40 carbon atoms, preferably chosen among :

[0050] * monoesters comprising between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular monoesters of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched or aromatic fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Ri + R2 is greater than or equal to 17; and

[0051] * diesters comprising between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular diesters of formula R'iCOOR'2OOCR'3 in which R\ and R'3 each represent the residue of a linear or branched (preferably linear) fatty acid containing from 4 to 15 carbon atoms, and R'2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a linear chain, containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms;

[0052] - vegetable hydrocarbon oils;

[0053] - linear or branched alkanes having from 15 to 19 carbon atoms; and

[0054] - their mixtures.

[0055] Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil according to the invention is chosen from:

[0056] - Cm-C^ alcohols, preferably monoalcohols:

[0057] More particularly, the C10-C26 alcohols are saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, and comprise from 10 to 26 carbon atoms.

[0058] Preferably, the C10-C26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms.

[0059] As examples of fatty alcohols which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of linear or branched fatty alcohols, of synthetic origin, or even natural, such as for example alcohols originating from plant materials (copra, palm kernel, palm, etc.) or animal materials (tallow, etc.).

[0060] Of course, other long-chain alcohols can also be used, such as ether alcohols or even so-called Guerbet alcohols.

[0061] Finally, it is also possible to use certain more or less long cuts of alcohols of natural origin, such as for example coconut (Ci2 to Ci6) or tallow (Ci6 to Ci8) or compounds such as diols or cholesterol.

[0062] Preferably, a fatty alcohol comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, is used.

[0063] As particular examples of fatty alcohols which can be used preferably, we can in particular mention lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof, preferably cetearyl alcohol and / or octyldodecanol.

[0064] - ester oils with between 17 and 40 carbon atoms chosen from:

[0065] * monoesters comprising between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular monoesters of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched or aromatic fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that Ri + R2 is greater than or equal to 17, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), cetearyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate.

[0066] Preferably, these are esters of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 7 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, Ri and R2 being such that Ri + R2 is greater than or equal to 17.

[0067] As preferred monoesters, mention may be made of cetearyl isononanoate and / or isopropyl palmitate.

[0068] * diesters comprising between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular diesters of formula R'iCOOR'2OOCR'3 in which R\ and R'3 each represent the residue of a linear or branched (preferably linear) fatty acid containing from 4 to 15 carbon atoms, and R'2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular linear, containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms. Preferably R\ and R'3 are identical. As an example, mention may be made of 1,3-propanediol dicaprylate. Such a diester is notably marketed under the name DUB Zenoat by STEARINERIES DUBOIS.

[0069] - vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as fatty acid triglycerides (liquid at room temperature), in particular fatty acids having from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or jojoba oil; in particular, mention may be made of saturated triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride and mixtures thereof, for example such as that marketed under the reference Myritol 318 from Cognis, glyceryl triheptanoate, trioctanoate glycerin, C18-36 acid triglycerides (such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 by Stéarineries Dubois), and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil or pracaxi oil.

[0070] - linear or branched alkanes with 15 to 19 carbon atoms:

[0071] As examples of alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of mixtures of alkanes having from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, having a molecular weight of between 200 g / mol and 250 g / mol.

[0072] Preferably, the alkanes are branched.

[0073] Preferably, the alkanes are of plant origin.

[0074] Preferably, a mixture comprising 95 to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture, of branched C15-C19 alkanes, and 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture, of C12-C14 and C20-C26 alkanes is used. Such a mixture preferably has a molecular weight of approximately 216 g / mol. Such a mixture is marketed by Seppic under the reference Emogreen L15.

[0075] Alternatively, preferably, a mixture is used comprising 95 to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture, of branched C15-C19 alkanes, and 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture, of C12-C14 and C20-C26 alkanes. Such a mixture preferably has a molecular weight of approximately 248 g / mol. Such a mixture is marketed by Seppic under the reference Emogreen L19.

[0076] Alternatively, preferably, a mixture comprising 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture, of branched C15-C19 alkanes, and 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture, of C12-C14 and C20-C26 alkanes is used. Such a mixture is marketed by Seppic under the reference Emosmart L19.

[0077] - and mixtures thereof.

[0078] Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil according to the invention is chosen from C10-C26 alcohols, monoesters comprising between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular monoesters of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched or aromatic fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that Ri + R2 is greater than or equal to 17, and mixtures thereof.

[0079] More preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil according to the invention is chosen from cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl palmitate, cetearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof.

[0080] Preferably, the composition comprises between 2% and 40%, preferably between 3% and 35%, preferably between 4% and 30% by weight of non-volatile hydrocarbon oil relative to the total weight of the composition. Cupuaçu butter

[0081] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one cupuaçu butter.

[0082] Cupuaçu butter is a butter of vegetable origin. It is considered a pasty fatty body.

[0083] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty fatty body" means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state, and comprising at a temperature of 23°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0084] In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound may be less than 23°C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23°C may represent 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23°C preferably represents between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.

[0085] The melting point of a solid fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “DSC Q100” by the company TA Instruments with the software “TA Universal Analysis”, according to the protocol defined previously.

[0086] The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23°C is more particularly equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound.

[0087] The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when its entire mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in the liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form.

[0088] The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is in particular equal to the value under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the quantity of energy required to change the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

[0089] The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C is the quantity of energy absorbed by the sample to pass from the solid state to the state it presents at 23°C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0090] Cupuaçu (THEOBROMA GRANDIFLORUM) is a plant native to the southern Amazon, rich in fatty acids.

[0091] Cupuacu butter (INCI name: THEOBROMA GRANDIFLORUM SEED BUTTER) is notably marketed under the name Rain forest RF3410 by the company BERACA INGR. NATURAIS (CLARIANT).

[0092] Preferably, the composition comprises between 0.1% and 40%, preferably between 0.5% and 30%, preferably between 1% and 20%, more preferably between 1.5% and 10% by weight of cupuaçu butter relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0093] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one butter of vegetable origin distinct from cupuaçu butter. Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least jojoba butter (INCI name: SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (JOJOBA) BUTTER / SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS BUTTER).

[0094] Preferably, the composition comprises between 0.1% and 10%, preferably between 0.3% and 8%, preferably between 0.5% and 5% by weight of butter of vegetable origin other than cupuaçu butter, preferably jojoba butter, relative to the total weight of the composition. Wax

[0095] The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one wax.

[0096] By "wax" is meant a lipophilic compound which is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point in particular greater than or equal to 30°C and less than or equal to 90°C, more particularly less than or equal to 80°C, and preferably less than or equal to 70°C. The melting point of a solid fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q100" by the company TA Instruments with the software "TA Universal Analysis".

[0097] The measurement protocol is as follows:

[0098] A sample of solid fatty substance of approximately 5 mg is placed in a crucible "hermetic aluminum capsule" When the solid fatty substance is soft (pasty fatty substance), the sample is subjected to a first temperature rise from 20 °C to 80 °C, at a heating rate of 2 °C / minute up to 80 °C, then left at the isotherm of 80 °C for 20 minutes, then is cooled from 80 °C to - 80 °C at a cooling rate of 2 °C / minute, and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from - 80 °C to 20 °C at a heating rate of 2 °C / minute.

[0099] The melting temperature value of the solid fatty substance is the value of the peak of the most endothermic peak of the melting curve observed, representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature. In particular, the polar waxes used in the composition according to the invention have a melting temperature greater than 30°C and better still greater than 45°C.

[0100] More particularly, the wax is chosen from polar waxes and apolar waxes, in particular hydrocarbon waxes. Polar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon ester waxes, hydrocarbon alcohol waxes, silicone waxes, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0101] By "hydrocarbon wax" is meant a wax formed essentially, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0102] According to the invention, the term “ester wax” means a wax comprising at least one ester function. Ester waxes may also be hydroxylated.

[0103] According to the invention, the term "alcohol wax" means a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, i.e. comprising at least one free hydroxyl group (OH). The additional alcohol wax does not in particular comprise an ester function.

[0104] By “silicone wax” is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups. Ester waxes

[0105] The following may in particular be used as ester wax:

[0106] - ester waxes such as those chosen from:

[0107] i) waxes of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen, and whose melting point temperature varies from 30 to 120°C, preferably from 30 to 100°C. In particular, it is possible to use as ester wax a C2o-C4o alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C2o-C4O alkyl stearate. Such waxes are sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®", "Kester Wax K 80 P®", or "KESTER WAX K82H" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN. Mixtures of C14-C18 carboxylic acid esters and alcohols can also be used, such as the products "Cetyl Ester Wax 814" from the company KOSTER KEUNEN, "SP Crodamol MS MB AL", "Crodamol MS PA" from the company CRODA, "Miraceti" from the company LASERSON..

[0108] It is also possible to use a glycol and butylene glycol montanate (octacosanoate) such as LICOWAX KPS FLAKES wax (INCI name: glycol montanate) marketed by the company Clariant;

[0109] ii) di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE;

[0110] iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5), wherein R3 and R5 are the same or different, preferably the same and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations. Preferably, the C4-C30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated;

[0111] iv) waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having in particular linear or branched fatty chains, in C8-C32, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, castor oil hydrogenated, hydrogenated coconut oil, as well as waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190. As waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, mention may be made of those sold under the name “PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57”;

[0112] v) waxes of vegetable origin, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, Orange and Lemon waxes, Laurel wax, hydrogenated Jojoba wax, sunflower wax, in particular refined;

[0113] vi) Mention may also be made of hydrocarbon waxes, polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated, natural or synthetic, of animal or vegetable origin; the number of oxyalkylenated units (in C2-C4) may vary from 2 to 100, the number of glycerol units may vary from 1 to 20. As examples, mention may be made of polyoxyethylenated beeswax, such as PEG-6 beeswax, PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylenated carnauba waxes, such as PEG-12 carnauba; lanolin waxes, hydrogenated or not, polyoxyethenate or polyoxypropylenate, such as PEG-30 lanolin, PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerol beeswax, including polyglyceryl-3 Beewax, Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax / Polyglyceryl-3 Esters blend, polyglycerol vegetable waxes such as mimosa, jojoba, sunflower waxes, and blends thereof (Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax Polyglyceryl-3 Esters;

[0114] vii) Waxes corresponding to partial or total esters, preferably total, of a saturated, optionally hydroxylated, C16-C30 carboxylic acid with glycerol. By total esters, it is meant that all the hydroxyl functions of the glycerol are esterified. By way of example, mention may be made of trihydroxy stearin (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate), tristearin (or glyceryl tristearate), tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate), alone or as a mixture. Among suitable compounds, mention may be made of triesters of glycerol and 12-hydroxystearic acid, or of hydrogenated castor oil, such as, for example, Thixcin R, Thixcin E, marketed by Elementis Specialties;

[0115] viii) as well as mixtures thereof. Alcohol waxes

[0116] As alcohol wax, mention may be made of alcohols, preferably linear, preferably saturated, comprising from 16 to 60 carbon atoms, the melting point of which is between 25°C and 90°C. As examples of alcohol wax, mention may be made of stearic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, palmitic alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof. Silicone wax

[0117] As silicone wax, mention may be made, for example, of mixtures comprising a compound of the C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane type (INCI name), for example the product Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax marketed by the company Dow Corning. Mention may also be made of mixtures comprising a compound of the C30-45 Alkyl Methicone type (INCI name), such as for example the product Dow Corning® AMS-C30 Cosmetic Wax. Mention may also be made of silicone beeswax.

[0118] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar hydrocarbon wax" means a wax comprising only carbon or hydrogen atoms in its structure. In other words, such a wax is free of other atoms, in particular heteroatoms such as, for example, nitrogen, oxygen, silicon. As illustrations of the apolar waxes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, microwaxes, in particular polyethylene.

[0119] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polar wax, preferably chosen from waxes of plant origin, preferably from beeswax, synthetic beeswax, camauba wax, candellila wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, Orange and Lemon waxes, laurel wax, hydrogenated Jojoba wax and sunflower wax, in particular refined.

[0120] Preferably, the wax content is between 0.05 and 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1 and 3%, preferably between 0.3 and 2% by weight. Aqueous phase

[0121] The composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium which constitutes the continuous aqueous phase. By "physiologically acceptable" is meant a medium compatible with keratin materials.

[0122] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an aqueous medium comprising water and optionally an organic solvent soluble in water, at 25°C, chosen for example from linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol, propanol, butanol; polyols and their mixtures.

[0123] By polyol according to the invention is meant a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least at least 2 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and carrying at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols used in the present invention may have a weight-average molecular mass of less than or equal to 1000, preferably between 90 and 500. The polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

[0124] The polyol may be chosen from glycerin and derivatives thereof, and glycols and derivatives thereof. The polyol may be chosen from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, octane 1,2-diol, polyethylene glycols, in particular having from 5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and sugars such as sorbitol, and mixtures thereof. More particularly, the polyol is glycerin.

[0125] Preferably, the composition comprises water, at least one linear or branched C2-C4 alkanol and at least one polyol.

[0126] Preferably, the composition comprises at least 50% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 55%, preferably at least 60% by weight. Preferably, the composition comprises from 50 to 95% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 55 to 80% by weight.

[0127] The quantity of organic solvent(s) may range, for example, from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, better still from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0128] The composition may also comprise at least one polymer, in particular a hydrophilic polymer. Such a polymer is preferably a water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® polymer.

[0129] The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® polymers preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50,000 g / mol to 10,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 80,000 g / mol to 8,000,000 g / mol, and even more preferably from 100,000 g / mol to 7,000,000 g / mol.

[0130] As water-soluble or water-dispersible homopolymers of AMPS suitable for the invention, mention may be made, for example, of crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate acid such as that used in the commercial product SIMULGEL 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked polymers of ammonium 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate acid (INCI name: AMMONIUM POLYACRYLDIMEHYLTAURAMIDE) such as the product sold under the trade name HOSTACERIN AMPS® by the company Clariant.

[0131] As water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymers of AMPS in accordance with the invention, mention may be made, for example, of:

[0132] - crosslinked acrylamide / acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate copolymers of sodium such as that used in the commercial product SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: 5 3028758 57 POLYACRYLAMIDE / C13-C14 ISOPARAFFIN / LAURETH-7) or that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL 600 (CTFA name: ACRYLAMIDE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE / ISO-HEXADECANE / POLYSORBATE-80) by the company SEPPIC;

[0133] - copolymers of AMPS® and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name ARISTOFLEX AVC® by the company CLARIANT (CTFA name: AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIME-THYLTAURATE / VP COPOLYMER) but neutralized by soda or potash;

[0134] - copolymers of AMPS® and sodium acrylate, such as for example co AMPS / sodium acrylate polymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL EG® by the company SEPPIC or under the trade name SEPINOV EM (CTFA name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER);

[0135] - copolymers of AMPS® and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as for example co AMPS® / hydroxyethyl acrylate polymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL NS® by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE COPOLYMER (AND) SQUALANE (AND) POLYSORBATE 60) or as the product marketed under the name COPOLYMER ACRYLAMIDO-2-METHYL PROPANE SULFONATE DE SODIUM / HY-DROXYETHYLACRYLATE such as the commercial product SEPINOV EMT 10 (INCI name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER);

[0136] - copolymers of AMPS® and ethoxylated cetearyl methacrylate, even tually crosslinked, such as Aristoflex® HMS, which is called AMPS / ethoxylated cetearyl methacrylate (25 EO) 80 / 20 copolymer, crosslinked by trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) or Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer in INCI name.

[0137] The aqueous phase of the composition may also comprise at least one additional surfactant distinct from the non-ionic surfactants. Preferably, the additional surfactant is chosen from:

[0138] a) anionic surfactants such as:

[0139] polyoxyethylenated fatty acid salts, in particular those derived from alkali salts, and mixtures thereof;

[0140] phosphoric esters and their salts such as "DEA oleth-10 phosphate" (Crodafos N ION from the company CRODA) or monocetyl monopotassium phosphate (Amphisol K from Givaudan);

[0141] sulfosuccinates such as “Disodium PEG-5 citrate lauryl sulfosuccinate” and “Disodium ricinoleamido MEA sulfosuccinate”;

[0142] alkyl ether sulfates such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate;

[0143] isethionates;

[0144] acylglutamates such as "Disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate" (AMISOFT HS-21 R® marketed by the company AJINOMOTO) and sodium stearoyl glutamate (AMISOFT HS-11 PF® marketed by the company AJINOMOTO) and their mixtures;

[0145] soy derivatives such as potassium soyate;

[0146] citrates, such as Glyceryl stearate citrate (Axol C 62 Pellets from Degussa);

[0147] proline derivatives, such as Sodium palmitoyl proline (Sepicalm VG from Seppic), or the Mixture of Sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, Magnesium palmitoyl glutamate, Palmitic acid and Palmitoyl proline (Sepifeel One from Seppic);

[0148] lactylates, such as Sodium stearoyl lactylate (Akoline SL from Karlshamns AB);

[0149] sarcosinates, such as sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate (Nikkol sarcosinate PN) or the mixture of Stearoyl sarcosine and Myristoyl sarcosine 75 / 25 (Crodasin SM from Croda)

[0150] sulfonates, such as Sodium C14-17 alkyl sec sulfonate (Hostapur SAS 60 from Clariant);

[0151] glycinates, such as sodium cocoyl glycinate (Ajinomoto's Amilite GCS-12);

[0152] salts of C16-C30 fatty acids, in particular those derived from amines, such as triethanolamine stearate and / or amino-2-methyl-2-propane di-ol-1,3 stearate;

[0153] b) amphoteric surfactants such as N-acyl-amino acids such as N-alkyl-aminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide or silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyol phosphates such as that sold under the name PECOSIL PS 100® by the company PHOENIX CHEMICAL;

[0154] and mixtures thereof.

[0155] The composition according to the invention also comprises an oily phase dispersed in the aqueous phase.

[0156] The composition may comprise, in addition to the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and cupuaçu butter, oils other than the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, organopolysiloxane elastomers or mixtures thereof.

[0157] Among the oils, mention may be made of silicone oils, volatile or non-volatile, volatile hydrocarbon oils, as well as their mixtures.

[0158] The composition may also comprise at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer.

[0159] By "organopolysiloxane elastomer" or "silicone elastomer" is meant a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties and in particular the consistency of a sponge or a flexible sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is capable of returning to its original shape following stretching. It is more particularly a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer.

[0160] Thus, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by addition crosslinking reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and diorganopolysiloxane having ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by condensation crosslinking dehydrogenation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl terminations and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of an organotin; or by condensation crosslinking reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl terminations and a hydrolyzable organopo-lysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, in particular in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, electron beam.

[0161] Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to the silicon, in particular in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst, as for example described in application EP-A-295886.

[0162] In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

[0163] Compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane and crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).

[0164] Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to separate silicon atoms in each molecule. Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, in particular a linear chain or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.

[0165] Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular to be easily miscible with compound (B).

[0166] The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

[0167] Compound (A) can thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes with trimethylsiloxy endings, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogeno-siloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy endings, and cyclic dimethyl-siloxane-methylhydrogeno-siloxane copolymers.

[0168] Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (e.g. C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group may be selected from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located in any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. Organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched chain, straight chain, cyclic, or network structure, but the straight chain structure is preferred. Compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from a liquid to a gum state. Preferably, compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C.

[0169] In addition to the above-mentioned alkenyl groups, other organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

[0170] The organopolysiloxanes (B) may be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy terminations, methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)-polysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, and dimethylsiloxane-methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations.

[0171] In particular, the elastomeric organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and methylhydrogenopoly- siloxane with trimethylsiloxy terminations, in the presence of platinum catalyst.

[0172] Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms linked to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 5.

[0173] It is advantageous that the compound (A) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in the compound (A) and the total amount of all ethylenically unsaturated groups in the compound (B) is in the range of 1.5 / 1 to 20 / 1.

[0174] Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is notably chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, black platinum, and supported platinum.

[0175] The catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).

[0176] The organopolysiloxane elastomer is advantageously an emulsifying elastomer.

[0177] The term “emulsifier” defines organopolysiloxane elastomers containing a hydrophilic chain, and in particular containing polyoxyalkylene units (in particular polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) and / or polyglyceryl units.

[0178] In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer used in the present invention is a Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer-3 (INCI Name).

[0179] The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles may be conveyed in the form of a gel consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or one silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles.

[0180] Emulsifying elastomers are described in particular in patents EP 242 219, EP 285 886, EP 765 656 and in application JP-A-61-194009. The organopolysiloxane elastomer is generally in the form of a gel, a paste or a powder but advantageously in the form of a gel in which the organopolysiloxane elastomer is dispersed in a linear (dimethicone) or cyclic (e.g. cyclopentasiloxane) silicone oil, advantageously in a linear silicone oil.

[0181] As emulsifying elastomer, it is more particularly possible to use that sold under the name “KSG-710” by the company Shin Etsu.

[0182] According to a particular embodiment, an organopolysiloxane elastomer gel is used, dispersed in a silicone oil chosen from a non-exhaustive list comprising cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicones, dimethylsiloxanes, methyl trimethicone, phenylmethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, and cyclo- methicone, preferably a linear silicone oil chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicones with a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 500 is at 25°C, optionally modified by aliphatic groups, optionally fluorinated, or by functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups.

[0183] The total quantity in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention of organopolysiloxane elastomer(s) represents an active material content of 0.1% to 7% by weight, in particular of 0.2% to 5% by weight, preferably of 0.6% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0184] The composition according to the invention may also comprise any additional ingredient well known to those skilled in the art, such as preservatives, perfumes, fillers, vitamins, active ingredients, UV filters and / or sequestrants.

[0185] Preferably, the sequestering agent is chosen from ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts. Ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid is the compound of formula (II):

[0186] [Chem.l] (II).

[0187] Preferably, the salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid is selected from alkali metal salts, such as potassium salts and sodium salts, ammonium salts, and amine salts. The alkali metal salts of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid are more particularly preferred.

[0188] Preferably, the salt of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid used according to the invention is trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate. Such a compound is, for example, that marketed under the name Natrlquest® E30 by the company Innospec Active Chemicals (dispersion of the compound at 37% by weight of active material in water), or that marketed under the name Octaquest E30® by the company Octel Performance Chemicals.

[0189] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an amount of sequestering agent of between 0.01% and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 0.8% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 0.06% to 0.7% by weight.

[0190] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0191] The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention as an anti-aging composition.

[0192] Concrete, but in no way limiting, examples illustrating the invention will now be given.

[0193] In the examples, the temperature is ambient (20°C) and expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise indicated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise indicated.

[0194] In the examples, the quantities of the ingredients of the compositions are given in % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (% w / w). Examples

[0195] In the examples, the compositions are prepared with the ingredients mentioned in the table below, according to the following protocol:

[0196] The ingredients of the fatty phase A (i.e. oils, jojoba butter and surfactants) are successively introduced;

[0197] Heat to 75°C;

[0198] Disperse until completely melted and dissolved;

[0199] Add the gelling agents and the cupuaçu butter;

[0200] Then emulsification: the aqueous phase B is poured at 75°C onto the fatty phase, then disperse until an emulsion is obtained and cool.

[0201] Phase C: The active ingredients are introduced, previously mixed with part of the water, then the perfume at 40°C, and dispersed until a suitable emulsion is obtained.

[0202] Phase D: Finally, the silicone elastomer is introduced at 35°C.

[0203] Disperse; at 30°C ethanol is introduced (Phase E).

[0204] Formula A is according to the invention, while formula B is comparative.

[0205] [Tables 1] Ingrédient Phase Formule A (invention) (%p / p) Formule B (comparative) (% p / p) GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE (Arlacel 65 de Croda) A 2,5 2,5 ORBIGNYA OLEIFERA SEED OIL (Huile de graines de babassu) A 0,9 0,9 ISOPROPYL PALMITATE A 1,2 1,2 Cire d’abeille A 0,5 - DIMETHICONE A 1,4 1,4 POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE (Amphisol K de Givaudan) A 0,2 0,2 CETEARYL ISONONANOATE A 2,5 2,5 CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE (Montanov 68) A 4 4 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA- DLT-BUTYL HYDROXYHY- DROCINNAMATE A 0,11 0,11 Beurre de jojoba (SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS BUTTER) A 0,6 - HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRY- LOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER (SEPINOV EM de Seppic) A 1 1 Beurre de cupuaçu (THEOBROMA GRAN-DIFLORUM SEED BUTTER) (Rain forest RF3410 de Beraca Ingr. Naturais (Clariant)) A 3 OCTYLDODECANOL A 1 1 Preservative B Qs Qs TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE (Natrlquest® E30 from Innospec Active Chemicals) B 0.2 0.2 Water B Qs 100 Qs 100 GLYCERINE B 5 5 FRAGRANCE C 0.25 0.25 Actives C Qs Qs DIMETHICONE (and) DL METHICONE / POLYGLYCERIN -3 CROSSPOLYMER (KSG-710 from Shin Etsu) D 4 4 Ethanol E 3 3

[0206] The penetration speed of each formula is measured by the following protocol:

[0207] 150 microliters of each formula are applied to the back of the hand, 1 revolution per second, then we evaluate the penetration time of each formula with a stopwatch.

[0208] The optimal penetration speed is defined as follows: having measured the penetration speed of different anti-aging formulas, according to the consumer's assessments, it is concluded that an optimal penetration speed is between 19 and 25 seconds.

[0209] The results are as follows:

[0210] [Tables2] Formula Formula A (invention) Formula B (comparative) Volunteer 1 19 seconds 17 seconds Volunteer 2 20 seconds 17 seconds

[0211] As shown by the results, the presence of beeswax and butter in formula A according to the invention makes it possible to obtain an optimal penetration speed, that is to say a penetration speed that is not too fast so that the consumer has sufficient time to spread it on the face but not too slow either so that the enveloping, nourishing and tightening effects of the formula are perceived. If the penetration rate is too fast, then the formula will not be applied evenly to the face and is less comfortable for the consumer, who must pull to spread it. Comparative formula B has a less optimal penetration rate.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: - at least one non-ionic surfactant, preferably at least two non-ionic surfactants, - at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, - at least one cupuaçu butter, and - at least one wax.

2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, C8-C30 alkyl(poly)glycosides and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to claim 2, in which the fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol is a C16-C22 fatty acid ester comprising from 8 to 200 ethylene oxide units, preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.5% to 8% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 0.8% to 3% by weight; and preferably the composition also comprises an additional surfactant chosen from C16-C22 fatty acid esters of glyceryl.

4. Composition according to claim 2, in which the C8-C30 alkyl(poly)glycoside is of the following general formula R10-(R20)t (G)v in which R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical comprising approximately 8 to 30 carbon atoms, an al-kylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 8 to 24 carbon atoms; R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising approximately 2 to 4 carbon atoms; G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms; t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably 0 to 4, preferably 0 to 3; and v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably 1 to 4; preferably in a content of 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, and more preferably 0.2 to 5%, better still 0.25 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to one of claims 2 or 4, in which the C8-C30 alkyl(poly)glycoside is chosen from coco(poly)glucoside, arachidyl(poly)glucoside, Myristyl(poly)glucoside, cetylstearyl(poly)glucoside, C12-C20 alkyl(poly)glucosides, isostearyl(poly)glucoside and octyldodecyl(poly)xyloside.

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which comprises a mixture of at least one fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol and at least one C8-C30 alkyl (poly)glycoside, preferably the composition comprises a mixture of at least one fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol, at least one C8-C30 alkyl (poly)glycoside and at least one additional surfactant chosen from C16-C22 fatty acid glyceryl esters.

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from: - C10-C26 alcohols; - ester oils having between 17 and 40 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from: * monoesters comprising between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular monoesters of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched or aromatic fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that Ri + R2 is greater than or equal to 17;and * diesters comprising between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular diesters of formula R'iCOOR'2OOCR'3 in which R'i and R'3 each represent the residue of a linear or branched (preferably linear) fatty acid comprising from 4 to 15 carbon atoms, and R'2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a linear chain, containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms; - vegetable hydrocarbon oils; - linear or branched alkanes having from 15 to 19 carbon atoms; and - mixtures thereof.;

8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from C10-C26 alcohols, monoesters comprising between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular monoesters of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched or aromatic fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Ri + R2 is greater than or equal to 17, and mixtures thereof; preferably it is chosen from cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl palmitate, cetearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which comprises between 0.1% and 40%, preferably between 0.5% and 30%, preferably between 1% and 20%, preferably between 1.5% and 10% by weight of cupuaçu butter relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which comprises at least one wax chosen from polar waxes and apolar waxes, in particular hydrocarbon waxes, preferably from hydrocarbon ester waxes, hydrocarbon alcohol waxes, silicone waxes, as well as mixtures thereof; preferably the wax is chosen from waxes of plant origin, more preferably beeswax.

11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which also comprises at least one butter of vegetable origin other than cupuaçu butter, preferably at least jojoba butter, preferably the composition comprises between 0.1% and 10%, preferably between 0.3% and 8%, preferably between 0.5% and 5% by weight of butter of vegetable origin other than cupuaçu butter, preferably jojoba butter, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which comprises a continuous aqueous phase and optionally a water-soluble organic solvent, at 25°C, chosen for example from linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol, propanol, butanol; polyols and mixtures thereof; preferably the composition comprises at least 50% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 55%, preferably at least 60% by weight. Preferably, the composition comprises from 50 to 95% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 55 to 80% by weight.

13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which comprises, in addition to the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and the cupuaçu butter, at least one compound chosen from oils distinct from the hydro- non-volatile carbonaceous, organopolysiloxane elastomers and their mixtures.

14. Cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to one of the preceding claims.

15. Cosmetic use of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 13 as an anti-aging composition.