COSMETIC COMPOSITION

Abstract

COSMETIC COMPOSITION The invention relates to a leave-on water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion comprising an aqueous phase including water and a hydrophilic thickening agent consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone, the aqueous phase being free of other hydrophilic thickening agents, a mattifying filler including a silicone elastomer, an organic ultraviolet filter consisting of octyl salicylate, at least one silicone oil, and at least one silicone emulsifier. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COSMETIC COMPOSITION technical field

[0001] This disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions, and in particular water-in-oil emulsions that provide protection against ultraviolet (UV) radiation. BACKGROUND

[0002] This section aims to present to the reader various aspects of the art, which may be related to various aspects of the present invention that are described and / or claimed below. This discussion is intended to provide the reader with background information to facilitate a better understanding of the various aspects of the present invention. Accordingly, it should be understood that these statements should be read in light of the foregoing and not as acknowledgments of the prior art.

[0003] Protection against ultraviolet (UV) radiation is desirable in a cosmetic product. However, most UV agents (such as octocrylene, homosalate, etc.) tend to make compositions oily. The addition of various cosmetic ingredients, such as an oil-absorbing agent, can improve the feel, but the use of such materials tends to negatively impact stability and reduce the UV protection factor. Thus, providing a stable cosmetic composition that offers a reasonable level of UV protection (e.g., an SPF of 20) and has desirable aesthetic qualities can prove challenging. BRIEF SUMMARY

[0004] Various deficiencies of the prior art are addressed below by the disclosed systems; certain compositions may be proposed. In some embodiments, a cosmetic emulsion may be proposed. The cosmetic emulsion is preferably a leave-on product and, more preferably, a leave-on water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion.

[0005] The cosmetic composition may include an aqueous phase comprising water and a hydrophilic thickening agent. The hydrophilic thickening agent may be polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), and the aqueous phase must be free of other hydrophilic thickening agents. The cosmetic composition may include a mattifying filler. The mattifying filler may include a silicone elastomer. The silicone elastomer may be, for example, a non-glyceryl silicone. The mattifying filler may include a silicone elastomer and may be free of other mattifying fillers. The cosmetic composition may include an organic ultraviolet filter consisting of octyl salicylate. The cosmetic composition may be free of, or substantially free of, Other ultraviolet filters. The cosmetic composition may include at least one silicone oil, and may include 40 to 60% by weight of the silicone oil(s) composition. The cosmetic composition may include at least one silicone emulsifier. Optionally, the cosmetic composition may include an inorganic UV filter, which is preferably UV-grade titanium dioxide.

[0006] In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include no more than 10% by weight of hydrocarbon oil(s). In some embodiments, the cosmetic emulsion may be free of silica silylate. In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include 10% by weight or less of a polyol. In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include a colorant in an amount of 5 to 15% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may include a preservative. In some embodiments, the composition may include a lipophilic thickening agent. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of organic emulsifiers.In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of all other materials (for example, materials other than water, thickening agent, mattifying filler, organic UV filter, silicone emulsifier, silicone oil, hydrocarbon oil, polyol, colorant, preservative and lipophilic thickening agent). DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0007] The following description merely illustrates the principles of the invention. It will therefore be appreciated that a person skilled in the art will be able to devise various arrangements which, although not explicitly described or shown herein, embody the principles of the invention and are included within its scope. Furthermore, all examples cited herein are principally and expressly intended for illustrative purposes only, to aid the reader in understanding the principles of the invention and the concepts contributed by the inventor(s) to the advancement of the art, and should be interpreted as being without limitation to those specifically cited examples and conditions. In addition, the term "or," as used herein, refers to a non-exclusive "or," unless otherwise indicated (e.g., "either" or "or in the alternative").Similarly, the various embodiments described herein are not necessarily mutually exclusive, as some embodiments can be combined with one or more other embodiments to form new embodiments.

[0008] The numerous innovative teachings of this application will be described with particular reference to examples of currently preferred embodiments. However, it should be understood that this class of embodiments does not This document provides only a few examples of the many advantageous uses of the innovative teachings contained herein. In general, the statements made in the statement of this application do not necessarily limit any of the various claimed inventions. Moreover, some statements may apply to some inventive features but not to others.

[0009] In this document, the expression "substantially free (of a component)" means systems or compositions that do not contain an appreciable amount of the component, for example, not more than about 1% by weight, or not more than about 0.5% by weight, or not more than about 0.3% by weight, such as not more than about 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the system or composition comprising the oxidizing system and / or composition according to embodiments of the disclosure.

[0010] In this document, the term "free" or the expression "totally free (of a component)" means that the systems or compositions do not contain the component to a degree measurable by standard means.

[0011] In some embodiments, a cosmetic emulsion may be provided. The cosmetic emulsion is preferably a leave-on product and, more preferably, a leave-on water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion. Aqueous Phase

[0012] The cosmetic composition may include an aqueous phase comprising water and a thickening agent.

[0013] Water must be present in an amount of no more than 30% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, water may be present in an amount of no more than 25% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, water may be present in an amount of no more than 20% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, water may be present in an amount of no more than 15% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, water may be present in an amount of no more than 10% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, water may be present in an amount of 5% to 15% by weight of the composition.

[0014] Surprisingly, it was discovered that the disclosed compositions work with a particular thickening agent and do not provide the required characteristics when different thickening agents are used. The thickening agent must be polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP). The aqueous phase must be free of other thickening agents. The thickening agent must be present in an amount of no more than 3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the preservative may be present in an amount of no more than 2% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the preservative may be present in an amount of no more than 1% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the thickening agent may be present in an amount of 0.5% to 1% by weight of the composition. Mattifying filler

[0015] The cosmetic composition may include a mattifying filler. The mattifying filler may include a silicone elastomer. The silicone elastomer may be, for example, a non-glyceryl silicone. The mattifying filler may include a silicone elastomer and may be free or substantially free of other thickening agents.

[0016] Silicone elastomer.

[0017] The amount of silicone elastomer present in the compositions, if any, will typically be at least 2%, or at least 3%, or at least 4%, or at least 5% by weight of the composition. It will typically be at most 7%, or at most 8%, or at most 9%, or at most 10% by weight of the composition.

[0018] The silicone elastomer must be a mattifying silicone polymer. The silicone elastomer may be a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer. In this document, the term "non-emulsifying" refers to organopolysiloxane elastomers that do not contain hydrophilic chains, in particular polyoxyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) or polyglyceryl units. Thus, according to some embodiments, the composition may comprise a silicone elastomer that is free of polyoxyalkylene and polyglyceryl units.

[0019] Non-limiting examples of non-emulsifying elastomers are described in US Patent No. 8,637,057, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety, as well as those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 by Shin-Etsu, DC 9040, DC 9041, DC 9509, DC 9505 and DC 9506 by Dow Corning and SFE 839 by General Electric.

[0020] Silicone elastomers can take the form of a gel or a powder.

[0021] In certain embodiments, the silicone elastomer can be conveyed in the form of a gel formed from an organopolysiloxane elastomer embedded in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical. Non-limiting examples of silicone elastomers useful in the present invention are dimethicone crosslinked polymer gels (dimethicone crosslinked polymer mixtures in solvents) having viscosity values ​​of approximately 150 to approximately 700 mm² / s, approximately 200 to approximately 650 mm² / s, and approximately 300 to approximately 600 mm² / s, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.

[0022] Non-limiting examples of silicone elastomeric gels include DC EL-8040 ID (INCI name: Isododecane (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer) and DC EL-9140 DM (INCI name: Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer), supplied by Dow Corning.

[0023] While not wishing to be bound by any particular theory, it is believed that silicone telastomer thickens the composition, adds a soft (spongy) effect, and / or improves the application properties of the composition. It also provides a very soft feel and a mattifying effect after application.

[0024] In some embodiments, the cosmetic emulsion may be free or substantially free of other mattifying agents. In some embodiments, the cosmetic emulsion may be free of silica silylate. In some embodiments, the cosmetic emulsion may be free of amorphous silica. In some embodiments, the cosmetic emulsion may be free of starch. Ultraviolet (UV) filter

[0025] The cosmetic composition may include an ultraviolet filter. The ultraviolet filter may be an organic UV filter. The organic UV filter preferably consists of octyl salicylate. The cosmetic composition may be free of, or substantially free of, other ultraviolet filters. Octyl salicylate may be present in an amount of not more than 5% by weight of the composition. Silicone Oil

[0026] The cosmetic composition may include a silicone oil, which must be present in a total quantity of at least 30% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the silicone oil may be present in a total quantity of at least 35% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the silicone oil may be present in a total quantity of at least 40% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the silicone oil may be present in a total quantity of not more than 70% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the silicone oil may be present in a total quantity of not more than 65% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the silicone oil may be present in a total quantity of not more than 60% by weight of the composition.In some embodiments, the silicone oil(s) may be present in a total quantity of 40% to 60% by weight of the composition. The cosmetic composition may include a single silicone oil, or it may include a plurality of silicone oils. In some embodiments, the silicone oil may consist of dimethicone.

[0027] Volatile silicone oil.

[0028] In some embodiments, the composition may include a volatile silicone oil. The term "volatile" oil refers to an oil with a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular at 13,000 Pa, and more particularly at 1,300 Pa.

[0029] The volatile silicone oil can be selected from linear or cyclic silicone oils such as linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having 3 to 7 silicon atoms. Examples of these oils include octyltrimethicone, hexyltrimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (cyclopentasiloxane or D5), octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (cyclotetradimethylsiloxane or D4), dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4), polydimethylsiloxanes such as those sold under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), DC 200 (5 cSt), DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning, KF 96A by Shin Etsu; alone or in mixtures.

[0030] Preferably, the silicone oil may be free or substantially free of volatile silicone oils.

[0031] Non-volatile silicone oils.

[0032] In some embodiments, the silicone oil may include a non-volatile silicone oil. The term "non-volatile oil" refers to an oil whose vapor pressure at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure is not zero and is less than 10³ mm Hg (0.13 Pa). By way of example, the vapor pressure may be measured according to the static method or the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, according to the vapor pressure (OECD Standard 104).

[0033] Among the non-volatile silicone oils that can be used in the present invention, examples include non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils and phenylated non-volatile silicone oils.

[0034] The silicone oils that can be used according to the terms of the invention advantageously have a molecular weight less than or equal to 150,000 g / mol, preferably less than or equal to 100,000 g / mol, and better less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol.

[0035] Non-volatile, non-phenylated silicone oils.

[0036] The term "non-phenylated silicone oil" refers to a silicone oil that does not contain phenyl substituents. Representative examples of such non-volatile, non-phenylated silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxanes, alkyldimethicones, and vinylmethylmethicones.

[0037] It should be noted that these non-volatile, non-phenylated silicone oils do not contain ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, or glycerol-type motifs. They are therefore different from the silicone surfactants described above.

[0038] Moreover, the term “dimethicone” (INCI name) corresponds to a polydimethyl-siloxane (chemical name).

[0039] In particular, these oils may be selected from the following non-volatile oils: polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), alkyldimethicones comprising aliphatic groups, in particular alkyl, or alkoxy, which are pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain; these groups each comprise from 2 to 24 carbon atoms. For example, cetyldimethicone, sold under the trade name Evonik Goldschmidt's AB IL WAX 9801, polydimethylsiloxanes comprising functional groups such as hydroxyl groups, substituted polydimethylsiloxane aliphatic groups, in particular alkyl in C2-C24, pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, and by functional groups such as hydroxyl groups, and mixtures thereof.

[0040] Preferably, these non-volatile, non-phenylated silicone oils are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyldimethicones and also from polydimethylsiloxanes substituted with aliphatic groups, in particular alkyl groups in C2-C24, and functional groups such as hydroxyl groups.

[0041] In a preferred embodiment, the silicone oil is solely dimethicone.

[0042] The non-volatile, non-phenylated silicone oil may be selected from silicones corresponding to formula (I): ©(D

[0043] in which:

[0044] Ri, R2, R5 and R6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

[0045] R3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyl radical,

[0046] X is an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical,

[0047] n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, in par particular whose viscosity at 25 °C is between 8 centistokes (cSt) (8x 10 6 m2 / s) and 800,000 cSt, advantageously less than 100,000 cSt, and advantageously an average molar mass by weight less than or equal to 150,000 g / mol, preferably less than or equal to 100,000 g / mol, and better less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol.

[0048] Other non-phenylated, non-volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include those according to formula (I) where:

[0049] the substituents Ri at R6 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 60,000, for example the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000 CS by Dow Corning, and the product sold under the name Wacker Belsil DM 60000 by Wacker,

[0050] The substituents Ri at R6 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 100 or 350, for example the products sold respectively under the names Belsil DM100, Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS, by Dow Corning, and

[0051] the substituents Ri to R6 represent a methyl group, the group X represents a hydroxyl group, and n and p are such that the viscosity is 700, for example the product sold under the name Baysilone Fluid T0.7 by Momentive.

[0052] Non-volatile phenylated silicone oils

[0053] The term “phenylated silicone oil” refers to a silicone oil that has at least one phenyl substituent. These non-volatile phenylated silicone oils may be selected from those that also have at least one dimethicone fragment, or from those that do not. It should be noted that the term “dimethicone fragment” refers to a divalent siloxane group in which the silicon atom bears two methyl groups, this group not being located at the ends of the molecule. It can be represented by the following formula: -(Si(CH3)2-O)-.

[0054] The non-volatile phenylened silicone oil may be selected as such from:

[0055] (A) phenylated silicone oils that may or may not have a fragment of dimethicone cor corresponding to the following formula (II): ® (II) RIR— If—0 RR III i RRR — Si—Q—Si—R II R—Si-----0 R R

[0056] wherein the R groups, monovalent or divalent, are, independently of each other, a methyl, a methylene, a phenyl or a phenylene, provided that at least one R group is a phenyl.

[0057] In some embodiments of formula (II), the phenyl silicone oil may include at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six.

[0058] (B) phenylated silicone oils that may or may not have a fragment of dimethicone cor corresponding to the following formula (III): ¢11)(111) RRR II R—Si—0—Si—0—Si—RIII RRR

[0059] wherein the R groups are, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, provided that at least one R group is a phenyl.

[0060] Preferably, in this formula, the compound of formula (III) comprises at least three, for example at least four or at least five phenyl groups.

[0061] Mixtures of the various phenylorganopolysiloxane compounds described above can be used.

[0062] Examples that can be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl-, tetraphenyl- or pentaphenyl organopolysiloxanes.

[0063] Among the compounds corresponding to formula (III), phenylated silicone oils which do not have a dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (II) in which at least 4 or at least 5 R radicals are a phenyl radical, the remaining radicals being methyls.

[0064] Such non-volatile phenyl silicone oils are preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane. They are notably sold by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI name: trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane), or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane sold under the reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Corning may also be used.

[0065] They correspond in particular to the following formulas (II!1) and (III"): Ph Ph Ph CIII)(III') Mc--Si---G--Si---O--Si--Mc \ \ \ Ph Me Ph (ciir) Mc Ph Mc II Ph--Si--O--Si--O-—Si---Ph \ \ \ Mc Ph Mc T rr (III") Me--Si--O--Si--O--Si--Me \ \ \ :Ph Me Ph (au') Me Ph Me II Ph--s i---O---Si---O---Si---Ph \ \ \ Me Ph Me

[0066] in which Me represents methyl, Ph represents phenyl.

[0067] (C) phenylated silicone oils that correspond to at least one fragment of di methicone corresponding to the following formula (IV): ÎM(IV) Me Me Me . । LI X—Si—^0—Sij^-0—Si—X Me.Me.Me

[0068] in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000 and X represents -CH2-CH(CH3)(Ph).

[0069] (D) phenylened silicone oils corresponding to formula (V) below, and mixtures of the latter: (V)

[0070] in which:

[0071] - Ri in Rio, independently of each other, are hydrocarbon radicals in C i-C30, linear, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated,

[0072] - m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between between 0 and 900, provided that the sum m+n+q is different from 0.

[0073] Preferably, the sum m+n+q is between 1 and 100. Advantageously, the sum m+n+p+q is between 1 and 900 and preferably between 1 and 800.

[0074] Preferably, q is equal to 0.

[0075] More particularly, Ri to R10, independently of each other, are a linear or branched Ci-C30 hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, and in particular a C1-C20 hydrocarbon radical, preferably saturated, in particular CrCi8, or a monocyclic or polycyclic aryl radical in C6-Ci4 and in particular C10-C13, or an aralkyl radical preferably whose alkyl portion is in C1-C3.

[0076] Preferably, Ri to R10 can each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. Ri to Rio can in particular be identical and, moreover, be a methyl radical.

[0077] As particular embodiments of formula (V), we may mention:

[0078] (1) phenylated silicone oils that have or do not have at least one di- fragment methicone corresponding to formula (VI) below, and mixtures thereof: (VI)

[0079] in which:

[0080] Ri to R6, independently of each other, are hydrocarbon radicals in C1 to C30, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, an aryl radical, preferably in C6 to Cm, or an aralkyl radical whose alkyl portion is in C1 to C3).

[0081] m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 1000 and more preferably between 0 and 100, provided that the sum n+m is between 1 and 1000 and more preferably between 1 and 100.

[0082] Preferably, R, to R6, independently of each other, are a hydrocarbon radical, preferably alkyl, in C1-C20, in particular Ci-Ci8, or a monocyclic aryl radical in C6-Ci4 (preferably C6) or polycyclic and in particular C10-C13, or an aralkyl radical (preferably the aryl portion is in C6; the alkyl portion is in C1-C3).

[0083] Preferably, Ri to R10 can each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.

[0084] Ri to R6 may in particular be identical and, moreover, be a methyl radical. Preferably, m=1 or 2 or 3, and / or n=0 and / or p=0 or 1 may be applied, in formula (VI).

[0085] According to a particular embodiment, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is selected from phenyl silicone oils that have at least one di-methicone fragment.

[0086] Preferably, these oils correspond to compounds conforming to formula (VI) in which:

[0087] a) m=0, and n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 1 and 100.

[0088] Preferably, Ri to R6 are methyl radicals.

[0089] According to this embodiment, the silicone oil is preferably chosen from a diphenyldimethicone such as Shin Etsu KF-54 (400 est), Shin Etsu KF54HV (5000 est), Shin Etsu KF-50-300CS (300 est), Shin Etsu KF-53 (175 cSt) or KF-50-100CS from Shin Etsu (100 est).

[0090] p is between 1 and 1000, the sum n+m is between 1 and 1000, and n=0.

[0091] These phenylened silicone oils, whether or not they have at least one fragment of di- methicone corresponding more specifically to formula (VII) below: (VII) Me Me OR' Me II II Me Si —h O — Sii—h O Si-]— O Si Me । 1 । jp L । । Me Me Ph Me

[0092] in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR1 is a -OSiMe3 group and p is 0 or is between 1 and 1000, and m is between 1 and 1000. In particular, m and p are such that compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil.

[0093] According to a first embodiment of non-volatile phenyl silicone having at least one dimethicone fragment, p is between 1 and 1000. m is more particularly such that compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil. For example, trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone can be used, sold notably under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 by Wacker.

[0094] According to a second embodiment of non-volatile phenyl silicone not having a dimethicone fragment, p is equal to 0. m is between 1 and 1000, and is in particular such that compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil. Phenyltrimethicone, sold in particular under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556), can be used, for example.

[0095] (E) phenylated non-volatile silicone oils not having any di fragment methicon corresponding to formula (VIII) below, and mixtures thereof: (vni)

[0096] in which:

[0097] R, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated C1-C30 hydrocarbon radicals, linear, cyclic or branched, preferably R is a C1-C30 alkyl radical, an aryl radical, preferably in C6-C14, or a radical aralkyl whose alkyl portion is in C1-C3.

[0098] - m and n are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100.

[0099] More preferably, R, independently of each other, are a C1-C30 saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, preferably saturated, and in particular a C1-C20 hydrocarbon radical, preferably saturated, in particular Cl-Cl 8 and more particularly C4-C10, a C6-C14 monocyclic or polycyclic aryl radical and in particular C10-C13, or an aralkyl radical, preferably the aryl portion is at C6 and the alkyl portion is at C1-C3.

[0100] Preferably, the Rs can each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.

[0101] The Rs may in particular be identical and, moreover, be a methyl radical.

[0102] Preferably, m=1 or 2 or 3, and / or n=0 and / or p=0 or 1 may be applied, in formula (VIII).

[0103] According to a preferred embodiment, n is an integer between 0 and 100 and m is an integer between 1 and 100, provided that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100, in formula (VIII). Preferably, R is a methyl radical.

[0104] According to one embodiment, a phenyl silicone oil corresponding to formula (VIII) having a viscosity at 25°C between 5 and 1500 mm2 / s (i.e., from 5 to 1500 cSt), and preferably having a viscosity between 5 and 1000 mm2 / s (i.e., from 5 to 1000 cSt) can be used.

[0105] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is preferably chosen from among phenyltrimethicones (when n=0) such as Dow Corning DC556 (22.5 cSt), or from diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone oil (when m and n are between 1 and 100) such as Shin Etsu KF56 A, or Rhône-Poulenc Silbione 70663V30 oil (28 cSt). The values ​​in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25°C.

[0106] (F) phenylated silicone oils which may or may not have at least one di- fragment methicone corresponding to the following formula, and mixtures thereof: (IX) RI R3 II X---If--O---If- II R2 R4

[0107] in which:

[0108] RI, R2, R5 and R6 are, whether identical or not, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

[0109] R3 and R4 are, whether identical or not, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical (preferably at C6-C14), provided that at least one of R3 and R4 is a phenyl radical,

[0110] X is an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical,

[0111] n and p being an integer greater than or equal to 1, chosen so as to give the oil an average molar mass by weight preferably less than 150,000 g / mol and more preferably less than 100,000 g / mol.

[0112] and a mixture of the latter.

[0113] According to a more suitable embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one silicone oil, and preferably at least one non-volatile silicone oil. Silicone emulsifier

[0114] The cosmetic composition may include at least one silicone emulsifier. In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include at least two silicone emulsifiers.

[0115] At least one silicone emulsifier must be present in a total quantity of no more than 5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, at least one silicone emulsifier must be present in a total quantity of no more than 4% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, at least one silicone emulsifier must be present in a total quantity of no more than 1% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, at least one silicone emulsifier must be present in a total quantity of no more than 2% by weight of the composition.

[0116] Non-limiting examples of silicone emulsifiers include linear or branched polysiloxane copolymers substituted with polyether. The preferred silicone emulsifier is PEG-10 dimethicone, available under the trade name ES-5612 from Dow Corning Corporation (Midland, Mich.) or KF-6017 from Shin-Etsu (Akron, Ohio). Another preferred silicone emulsifier is dimethicone and PEG / PPG-18 / 18 dimethicone, available under the trade name ES-5226 DM from Dow Corning Corporation (Midland, Mich.). Other suitable silicone emulsifiers include PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone available under the trade name KF-6028 and PEG-9, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone available under the trade name KF-6038, both available from Shin-Etsu (Akron, Ohio). Hydrocarbon oil

[0117] In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include a hydrocarbon oil.

[0118] The term "hydrocarbon oil" is intended to designate an oil comprising primarily carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functional groups selected from among the hydroxyl, ester, ether, and carboxylic groups. Generally, the oil has a viscosity of 0.5 to 100,000 mPa-s, preferably 50 to 50,000 mPa-s, and more preferably 100 to 300,000 mPa-s.

[0119] In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon oil may include a volatile hydrocarbon oil. Non-limiting examples of volatile hydrocarbon oils include hydrocarbon oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular petroleum-derived C8-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), for example isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, and isohexadecane, and for example, oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-Ci6 esters, and isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils may also be used, such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell by Shell; or volatile linear alkanes. The composition may be free or substantially free of volatile hydrocarbon oils.

[0120] In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon oil may include a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil. Non-limiting examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils include:

[0121] hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

[0122] linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and their derivatives, petrolatum, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, or squalane;

[0123] phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203®),

[0124] triglycerides consisting of glycerol fatty acid esters, in particular whose fatty acids may have chain lengths from C4 to C36, and in particular from Cig to C36, these oils being possibly linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; These oils may include heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil (820.6 g / mol), corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, squash oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, or rosehip oil; oil of shea butter; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for example those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel;

[0125] synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether;

[0126] hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, such as cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, for example propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate and palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol 2-diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, alcohol benzoates in Ci2 to Ci5,hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for example isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, for example isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate and octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate and myristyle myristate; ,

[0127] polyesters obtained by condensation of a dimer and / or trimer of an unsaturated fatty acid and a diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, in particular such as dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Examples include the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H® (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA®,

[0128] polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for example dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxstearate / tetraisostearate;

[0129] fatty alcohols containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example octyl-dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol,

[0130] dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name CETIOL CC® by Cognis.

[0131] hydroxylated esters such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, and

[0132] aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate, Ci2-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-phenylethyl ester of benzoic acid and butyl salicylate.

[0133] The hydrocarbon oil, if any, must be present in an amount of no more than 20% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon oil may be present in a total amount of no more than 15% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon oil may be present in a total amount of no more than 10% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon oil may be present in a total amount of no more than 1% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon oil may be present in a total amount of no more than 2% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon oil may be present in a total amount of no more than 3% by weight of the composition.In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon oil may be present in a total quantity of no more than 4% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon oil may be present in a total quantity of no more than 5% by weight of the composition. Polyol

[0134] In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include a polyol. In some embodiments, the polyol may be a hydrocarbon polyol. In some embodiments, the polyol may be present in a total quantity of not more than 15% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the polyol may be present in a total quantity of not more than 12% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the polyol may be present in a total quantity of not more than 5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the polyol may be present in a total quantity of between 5% and 10% by weight.

[0135] In some embodiments, the composition may include a plurality of polyols present in a total quantity greater than 1% by weight of the composition, and a plurality of polyols present in a total quantity less than 0.5% by weight of the composition.

[0136] The term "polyol" should be understood as designating any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Preferably, the polyol may be in liquid form at room temperature.

[0137] In various embodiments, the polyol suitable for use in the invention may be a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl-type compound, saturated or unsaturated, having on each alkyl chain at least two —OH functions, in particular at least three —OH functions and more particularly at least four —OH functions.

[0138] In some embodiments, the polyol may contain from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 20 carbon atoms and more preferably 2 to 16 carbon atoms, advantageously 2 to 10 carbon atoms, more advantageously 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0139] In some embodiments, the polyol may be polyethylene glycol.

[0140] In some embodiments, the polyol may be a polyhydric alcohol, preferably ideally from C2-C8 and more preferably from C3-C6. Non-limiting examples of this include glycerol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol and di-glycerol, ethylhexylglycerin, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof, glycerol and its derivatives, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers, for example diglycerol, and polyethylene glycols, glycol ethers (containing in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as C1-C4 alkyl ethers of mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol, C1-C4 alkyl ethers of mono-, di- or triethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0141] In some embodiments, the polyol may include a polyol present in an amount of at least 5% by weight of the composition, and the polyol may be substantially free of other polyols. Inorganic UV filter

[0142] The inorganic UV filter may consist of UV-grade titanium dioxide, and the cosmetic composition may be free of other inorganic ultraviolet filters. "UV-grade" titanium dioxide generally has a relatively small particle size—typically with average particle sizes of 250 nm or less, including 200 nm or less and / or 150 nm or less. In some cases, the average particle size is approximately 130 nm.

[0143] The inorganic UV filter will typically be present in an amount of less than 15% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the inorganic UV filter may be present in an amount of less than 10% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the inorganic UV filter may be present in an amount of less than 7% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the inorganic ultraviolet filter may be present in an amount of less than 5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the inorganic ultraviolet filter may be present in an amount of less than 3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may be free of, or substantially free of, inorganic ultraviolet filters. Dye

[0144] The cosmetic composition may include a colorant. In some embodiments, the colorant may be present in an amount less than 30% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the colorant may be present in a The colorant may be present in an amount less than 20% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the colorant may be present in an amount less than 15% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the colorant may be present in an amount of at least 5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the colorant may be present in an amount of at least 10% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include a colorant in an amount of 5% to 15% by weight of the composition.

[0145] The colorant(s) may be chosen from organic and / or inorganic colorants, such as in particular pigments or pearlescent pigments traditionally used in cosmetic compositions, liposoluble or water-soluble coloring agents, materials having a specific optical effect and mixtures thereof.

[0146] In some embodiments, the composition may include a single pigment of between 5 and 10% by weight of the composition, a pearlescent pigment of at least 1% by weight of the composition, and may be substantially free of all other colorants.

[0147] Pigments.

[0148] The colorant may include, or be composed of, one or more pigments. Each pigment is preferably coated. In some embodiments, the one or more pigments include pigment-grade titanium dioxide. "Pigment-grade" titanium dioxide generally has a larger particle size than UV-grade titanium dioxide—typically having average particle sizes of 400 nm or more, including 500 nm or more and / or 600 nm or more.

[0149] The term “pigments” should be understood as referring to white or colored, inorganic or organic particles that are insoluble in an aqueous solution and are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting film.

[0150] The pigments may be present in a proportion of 0.1% to 30% by weight, such as 1% to 30% by weight or 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0151] Examples of inorganic pigments that can be used include titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, as well as zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate.

[0152] The pigment may also be a pigment having a structure that may be, for example, of the sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica type. Such a pigment is sold, for example, under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by the company Chemicals and Catalysts and has a contrast ratio of approximately 30.

[0153] The colorant may also comprise a pigment having a structure that may be, for example, of the type of silica microspheres containing iron oxide. An example pigment having this structure is sold by the Miyoshi company under the reference PC Bail PC-LL-100 P, this pigment being composed of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

[0154] Among the organic pigments that can be used are carbon black, D & C pigments, carmine-based lakes of cochineal, barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium, or diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPP) described in documents EP-A-542 669, EP-A-787 730, EP-A-787 731 and WO-A-96 / 08537.

[0155] In some embodiments, the coating may include pigment-grade alumina, silica, aluminum hydroxide, or titanium dioxide, and a hydrocarbon emulsifier as disclosed herein. In some embodiments, the coating may be present in a total amount of less than 1% by weight of the composition.

[0156] When iron oxides are present, such iron oxides (i.e., excluding coatings) are present in a total quantity of not more than 5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, such iron oxides (i.e., excluding coatings) are present in a total quantity of not more than 3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, such iron oxides (i.e., excluding coatings) are present in a total quantity of not more than 2% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, such iron oxides (excluding coatings) are present in a total quantity of 1 to 1.5% by weight of the composition.

[0157] When pigment-grade titanium dioxide is present, such pigment-grade titanium dioxide (i.e., excluding coatings) is present in a total quantity of not more than 20% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, such pigment-grade titanium dioxide (excluding coatings) is present in a total quantity of not more than 15% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, such pigment-grade titanium dioxide (excluding coatings) is present in a total quantity of 5 to 10% by weight of the composition.

[0158] Mother-of-pearl.

[0159] The colorant may also include one or more nacres. The term "nacres" should be understood as referring to iridescent or non-iridescent colored particles of any shape, which are in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or are synthesized, and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

[0160] The nacres can be selected from pearlescent pigments. These pigments can include natural or synthetic mica (fluorphlogopite). Non-limiting examples of pearlescent pigments include white pearlescent pigments such as oxide-coated mica. Titanium, mica coated with titanium dioxide, bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue, chromium oxide and the like, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type, as well as those based on bismuth oxychloride and mixtures thereof. This may also involve mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic colorants are superimposed. If pearlescent pigments are present, they are typically present in a total quantity of not more than 5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, pearlescent pigments are present in a total quantity of not more than 3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, pearlescent pigments are present in a total quantity not exceeding 2% by weight of the composition.

[0161] Among the mother-of-pearls available on the market, we can mention Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome mother-of-pearls (based on mica) sold by the Engelhard company, Timiron mother-of-pearls sold by the Merck company, Prestige mica-based mother-of-pearls sold by the Eckart company and Sunshine mica-based synthetic mother-of-pearls sold by the Sun Chemical company.

[0162] Mother-of-pearl may in particular have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper colour or reflection.

[0163] By way of illustration of mother-of-pearls which may be used in the context of this disclosure, reference may be made in particular to the gold mother-of-pearls sold in particular by the Engelhard company under the names Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze mother-of-pearls sold in particular by the Merck company under the names Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the Engelhard company under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange mother-of-pearls sold in particular by the Engelhard company under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the Merck company under the names Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); the brown-tinted mother-of-pearls sold in particular by the Engelhard company under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite);mother-of-pearl with copper reflections sold notably by the Engelhard company under the name Copper 340A (Timica); mother-of-pearl with red reflections sold notably by the Merck company under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); mother-of-pearl with yellow reflections sold notably by the Engelhard company under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); mother-of-pearl with red tint and gold reflections sold notably by the Engelhard company under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl sold notably by the Engelhard company under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); black mother-of-pearl with gold reflections sold notably by the company; Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl sold notably by the Merck company under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearl with silver reflections sold notably by the Merck company under the name Xirona Silver and green-gold and orange-pink mother-of-pearl sold notably by the Merck company under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and mixtures of these.

[0164] Dyes.

[0165] The colorant may also include water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes. Fat-soluble dyes include, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, [3-carotene], soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, and quinoline yellow. Water-soluble dyes include, for example, beetroot juice and caramel.

[0166] Material with special optical effect.

[0167] The colorant may also include at least one material with a specific optical effect. This effect differs from a simple, conventional hue effect, namely, a unified and stabilized effect of the type produced by conventional colorants, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of this disclosure, the term "stabilized" means the absence of any color variation with the viewing angle or in response to a change in temperature. This material may be selected, for example, from particles with a metallic sheen, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffraction pigments, thermochromatic agents, optical brighteners, and fibers, including those of the interference type. Of course, these various materials may be combined to allow the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect.

[0168] Metallic-reflecting particles that may be used in this disclosure are selected from, among other things: (i) particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative; (ii) particles comprising a single-substance or multi-substance substrate, organic or inorganic, at least partially coated with at least one metallic-reflecting layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative; and (iii) mixtures of such particles. The term "metal derivatives" means compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides, and sulfides.

[0169] Non-limiting examples of metals that may be present in such particles include Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se and mixtures or alloys thereof, such as Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr and mixtures or alloys thereof (e.g., bronzes and brasses).

[0170] By way of illustration of these particles, one can cite aluminium particles, such as those sold under the names STARBRITE 1200 EAC® by Siberline and METALURE® by Eckart. One can also cite metallic powders. copper or alloy mixtures, such as the 2844 series sold by Radium Bronze; metallic pigments such as aluminum or bronze, for example those sold under the name Rotosafe 700 by Eckart; silica-coated aluminum particles sold under the name Visionaire Bright Silver by Eckart; and metallic alloy particles such as silica-coated bronze (a copper-zinc alloy) sold under the name Visionaire Bright Natural Gold by Eckart. The particles in question may also be particles with a glass substrate, such as those sold by Nippon Sheet Glass under the name Microglass Metashine.

[0171] The goniochromatic staining agent can be selected, for example, from multilayer interference structures and liquid crystal staining agents.

[0172] Examples of symmetric multilayer interference structures that can be used in compositions prepared in accordance with this disclosure include: Al / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Al, pigments having this structure being sold by DuPont de Nemours; Cr / MgF2 / Al / MgF2 / Cr, pigments having this structure being sold under the name Chromaflair by Flex; MoS2 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3 and Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3, pigments having these structures being sold under the name Sicopearl by BASF; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2; SnO / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / SnO; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3; SnO / mica / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / mica / SnO, pigments with these structures being sold under the name Xirona by the Merck company (Darmstadt). For example, these pigments may include the silica / titanium oxide / tin oxide structure pigments sold under the name Xirona Magic by Merck, the silica / brown iron oxide structure pigments sold under the name Xirona Indian Summer by Merck, and the silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide structure pigments sold under the name Xirona Caribbean Blue by Merck. Shiseido's Infinity Colors pigments are another example. Depending on the thickness and nature of the various layers, different effects can be achieved.Thus, with the Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3 structure, the color changes from green-gold to red-grey for the SiO2 layers from 320 to 350 nm; from red to gold for the SiO2 layers from 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for the SiO2 layers from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for the SiO2 layers from 430 to 440 nm.

[0173] As an example of pigments with a multilayer polymer structure, one can cite those sold by the company 3M under the name Color Glitter.

[0174] Examples of liquid crystal goniochromatic particles that can be used include those sold by Chenix, as well as the product sold under the name HELICONE® HC by Wacker. Conservative

[0175] In some embodiments, the composition may include a preservative. In some embodiments, the composition may include a plurality of preservatives. In some embodiments, the preservative may be present in an amount of no more than 2% by weight of the composition.

[0176] Non-limiting examples of preservatives include phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, parabens (methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, etc.), sodium benzoate, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), potassium sorbate and / or grapefruit seed extract, or combinations thereof. More than one preservative may be included in the composition. Other preservatives known in the cosmetics industry include salicylic acid, DMDM ​​hydantoin, formaldehyde, chlorphenesin, triclosan, chlorhexidine digluconate, imidazolidinyl urea, and diazolidinyl urea. These may all be used alone or in combination with each other. Lipophilic thickening agent

[0177] In some embodiments, the composition may include a lipophilic thickening agent. The lipophilic thickening agent is preferably made of modified clay. In some embodiments, the total amount of the lipophilic thickening agent is less than 3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of the lipophilic thickening agent is less than 2% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of the lipophilic thickening agent is less than 1.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of the lipophilic thickening agent is at least 0.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of the lipophilic thickening agent is at least 1% by weight of the composition.

[0178] Clays are silicates containing a cation that may be selected from among the cations calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium, and lithium, and mixtures thereof. Examples of such materials include, but are not limited to, clays of the smectite family, as well as the vermiculite, stevensite, and chlorite families. These clays may be of natural or synthetic origin.

[0179] Examples include smectites, such as saponites, hectorites, montmorillonites, bentonites or beidellites, and in particular synthetic hectorites (also known as laponites), such as the products sold by Rockwood Additives Limited under the names LAPONITE XLS, LAPONITE XLG, LAPONITE RD, LAPONITE RDS and LAPONITE XL21 (these products are sodium-magnesium silicates and in particular sodium-lithium-magnesium silicates); bentonites, such as the product sold under the name BENTONE HC by Rheox; magnesium-aluminum silicates, which are in particular hydrated, such as the products sold by the Vanderbilt Company under the name VEEGUM ULTRA, VEEGUM HS or VEEGUM DGT, or also calcium silicates, and in particular those in synthetic form sold by the company under the name CEL C.

[0180] In some cases, organophilic clays are preferred, more particularly modified clays such as montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, and sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The clay is preferably a facultatively modified bentonite or a facultatively modified hectorite. The clays may be modified by a chemical compound selected from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkylarylsulfonates, and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

[0181] Examples include hectorites modified by a quaternary amine, more specifically by a fatty acid ammonium halide in C22 CiO, such as a chloride, such as a hectorite modified by distearyldimethylammonium chloride (CTFA name: Dis-teardimonium hectorite), for example the product sold under the name BENTONE 38V, BENTONE 38V CG or BENTONE EW CE by the company Elementis, or stearalconium hectorites, such as BENTONE 27 V. In some cases, the clay is preferably disteardimonium hectorite.

[0182] We can also mention quaternium-18 bentonites, such as those sold under the names BENTONE 34 by Elementis, TIXOGEL VP by United Catalyst and CLAYTONE 40 by Southern Clay; stearalconium bentonites, such as those sold under the names TIXOGEL LG by United Catalyst and CLAYTONE AF and CLAYTONE APA by Southern Clay; or quaternium-18 / benzalconium bentonites, such as those sold under the name CLAYTONE HT by Southern Clay.

[0183] In some cases, it is preferable that the clay be chosen from among modified organophilic clays, in particular modified organophilic hectorites, especially those modified by distearyldimethylammonium chloride (CTFA name: Distear-dimonium hectorite).

[0184] In some embodiments, the total quantity of modified clays is less than 3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the total quantity of modified clays is less than 2% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the total quantity of modified clays is less than 1.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the total quantity of modified clays is at least 0.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the total quantity of modified clays is at least 1% by weight of the composition. Other materials

[0185] In some embodiments, the composition may be free or substantially free of all other materials (for example, materials other than water, thickening agent, mattifying filler, organic UV filter, silicone emulsifier, silicone oil, hydrocarbon oil, polyol, colorant, preservative and lipophilic thickening agent).

[0186] In some embodiments, the composition may include vitamins and / or extracts, pH correcting or buffering agents and pigment coatings.

[0187] In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of organic emulsifiers.

[0188] Vitamins and extracts.

[0189] In some embodiments, the composition may include a vitamin. In some embodiments, the composition may include a plurality of vitamins. Such vitamins include substances having vitamin activity. In some embodiments, the vitamins may be present in a total amount of not more than 0.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the vitamins may be present in a total amount of not more than 0.3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the vitamins may be present in a total amount of not less than 0.1% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the vitamins may be present in a total amount of not less than 0.2% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the vitamins may be present in a total amount of 0.15% to 0.3% by weight of the composition.

[0190] Non-limiting examples of such vitamins include vitamin K, vitamin B8, vitamin B12, thiamine riboflavin, nicotinamide (also called niacinamide), pantothenic acid, pyridoxine and its derivatives, biotin (vitamin B7), folic acid, cyanocobalamin, and ascorbic acid. Vitamins contain vitamin derivatives.For example, ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its derivatives, in particular its phosphate derivatives such as di-alpha-tocopheryl diascorbyl phosphate potassium salt (sold by Senju Pharmaceutical under the reference Sepivital EPC), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate (sold by Roche under the reference Stay-C 50), and their esters such as ascorbyl acetate, palmitate and propionate; retinol (vitamin A) and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as retinyl acetate, palmitate and propionate; as well as pantothenic acid (vitamin B) and its derivatives such as pantolactone and D-panthenol.

[0191] In some embodiments, the composition may include an extract. In In some embodiments, the composition may include a single extract. In some embodiments, the composition may include a plurality of extracts. In some embodiments, the extract may be present in a total quantity of not more than 0.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the vitamins may be present in a total quantity of not more than 0.1% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the vitamins may be present in a total quantity of not more than 0.01% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the vitamins may be present in a total quantity of not less than 0.001% by weight of the composition.Non-limiting examples of extracts include, for example, plant extracts, in particular sea fennel extract, olive leaf extract, wolfberry fruit extract, as well as plant proteins and their hydrolysates such as rice or soy protein hydrolysates; seaweed extracts, in particular kelp extract; bacterial extracts; sapogenins such as diosgenin and Dioscorea extracts, in particular wild yam.

[0192] pH correcting agent or buffer.

[0193] In some embodiments, the composition may include a pH corrector and / or buffer.

[0194] pH adjusters include, but are not limited to, sodium metasilicate, silicate compounds, citric acid, lactic acid, ascorbic acid, carbonate compounds and sodium hydroxide.

[0195] Non-limiting examples of buffering agents include an acetate buffer (e.g., acetic acid + sodium acetate), a phosphate buffer (e.g., sodium dihydrogen phosphate + disodium hydrogen phosphate), a citrate buffer (e.g., citric acid + sodium citrate), a borate buffer (e.g., boric acid + sodium borate), a tartrate buffer (e.g., tartaric acid + sodium tartrate dihydrate), a Tris buffer (e.g., tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane) or a HEPES buffer (4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-l-piperazineethanesulfonic acid).

[0196] In some embodiments, the thickening agent is present in an amount of less than 3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition is substantially free of both pH adjuster and buffering agent. In some embodiments, the pH adjuster and buffering agent may be present in a total amount of 0.001% to 0.5% by weight of the composition.

[0197] Pigment coatings.

[0198] In some embodiments, when the pigment is coated, various coatings may be used. In some embodiments, the pigment coating may comprise at least one compound selected from alumina, silica, and hydroxide. of aluminum. In some embodiments, the pigment coating may include an anionic surfactant. Non-limiting examples include acyl glutamates, for example, disodium stearoyl glutamate and sodium stearoyl glutamate.

[0199] In some embodiments, the pigment coatings may be present in a total quantity of not more than 0.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the pigment coatings may be present in a total quantity of not more than 0.3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the pigment coatings may be present in a total quantity of not less than 0.2% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the pigment coatings may be present in a total quantity of not less than 0.15% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the pigment coatings may be present in a total quantity of not less than 0.1% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the pigment coatings may be present in a total quantity of 0.15% to 0.3% by weight of the composition. Examples

[0200] Compositions such as those shown in Table 1 below can be created by first mixing the oils and oil-soluble ingredients in one container, mixing the water and water-soluble ingredients in a separate container, and then, while homogenizing, combining the two phases, and then adding the mattifying fillers and colorants.

[0201] [Tables 1] Material Name Ex 1 Ex2 Cl C2 C3 PVP 0.7 0.2 - - - VP / Eicosene Copolymer - - - 1.0 Acrylates Copolymer - - - 1.0 Water qs qs qs qs qs Dimethicone Crosslinked Copolymer 6.3 6.3 6.3 6.3 6.3 Octyl Salicylate 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 PEG-10 Dimethicone 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyldimethicone 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Dimethicone 48.7 48.7 48.7 48.7 48.7 Pigment Grade TiO2 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 Pearlescent pigment 2.2 2.2 2.2 2.2 2.2 Other pigments 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 Pigment coatings 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils 8.5 8.5 8.5 8.5 8.5 Phenoxyethanol 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 Other preservatives 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Disteardimonium hectorite 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 Polyol (glycerin) 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Other polyols 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 pH correctors 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 Extracts 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Vitamins 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2

[0202] (Examples of formulas and comparative formulas)

[0203] As we have seen, the compositions shown in Table 1 are generally identical, except for the claimed aqueous phase (water is used as qs material, while the quantity and / or specific hydrophilic thickener used varies).

[0204] Certain characteristics of the composition were compared, a summary of which is shown in Table 2 below.

[0205] [Tables2] Characteristics Ex 1 Ex2 Cl C2 C3 Texture Soft feel, even application. Soft feel, even application. The product did not apply well to the skin. Application leaves streaks. Oily feel. Application leaves streaks and marks. Feels tight. Application leaves streaks and marks. Stability Stable Stable Stable Not stable. Water runs off immediately, creating a white line at the edges. Not stable. Contains unstable white liquid at the edges.

[0206] (Summary of features)

[0207] As can be seen, the example formulas (Ex 1 and 2), surprisingly, are both stable and have desirable textural characteristics (including streak-free and trace-free application), regardless of the amount of thickening agent tested. When the thickening agent was completely removed (C 1), the texture changed, resulting in much less desirable properties. Unexpectedly, other hydrophilic thickening agents did not mitigate the problem—the other agents made the formulas (C2 and C3) unstable and resulted in undesirable textures.

[0208] Some embodiments may provide a method for applying cosmetics to a face. The method may include applying the cosmetic composition as disclosed herein to the face for a first period of time, and then removing the cosmetic composition from the face for a second period of time after the first period of time.

Claims

Demands

1. A non-rinse water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion comprising: an aqueous phase comprising water and a hydrophilic thickening agent consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone, the aqueous phase being free of other hydrophilic thickening agents; a mattifying filler comprising a silicone elastomer; an organic ultraviolet (UV) filter consisting of octyl salicylate; at least one silicone oil; at least one silicone emulsifier; and optionally, an inorganic UV filter consisting of UV-grade titanium dioxide, in which the silicone oil constitutes 40 to 60% by weight of the emulsion.

2. Water-in-oil no-rinse cosmetic emulsion according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic emulsion is free of silica silylate.

3. A non-rinsing water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion according to claim 1, wherein the mattifying filler comprises a hectorite.

4. A non-rinse water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic emulsion includes 10% by weight or less of a hydrocarbon oil.

5. A non-rinse water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion according to claim 4, further comprising 10% by weight or less of a polyol.

6. A non-rinsing water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion according to claim 5, further comprising a colorant in an amount of 5 to 15% by weight of the emulsion.

7. A non-rinsing water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion according to claim 6, further comprising a preservative and / or a lipophilic thickening agent.

8. A non-rinsing water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion according to claim 7, wherein the cosmetic emulsion is substantially free from any other material.

9. A non-rinse water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion according to claim 1, wherein the silicone emulsifier is a non-glyceryl silicone.