SCALP CARE COMPOSITION COMPRISING A POWDERED ACTIVE AGENT AND A SUGAR ALCOHOL
A composition with powdered active agents and sugar alcohols in a water-based formulation addresses the powdery texture issue, enhancing the tactile sensation on the scalp.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-01-06
- Publication Date
- 2026-04-03
AI Technical Summary
Existing scalp care compositions with powdered active ingredients often result in an undesirable powdery tactile sensation after application.
A composition comprising powdered active agents, sugar alcohols, and water, which masks the powdery texture sensation, providing an improved touch sensation.
The composition effectively reduces the powdery texture sensation, offering an enhanced tactile experience on the scalp.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: SKINCARE COMPOSITION SCALP COMPRISING A POWDERED ACTIVE AGENT AND A SUGAR ALCOHOL Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the care of a scalp comprising at least one powdered active agent, at least one sugar alcohol and water. CONTEXT OF ART
[0002] In the field of hair / scalp cosmetics, the tactile sensation is one of the most important properties. In particular, when a scalp care cosmetic composition includes powdered active ingredients, it is necessary to minimize the powdery tactile sensation after application to the hair and scalp. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION
[0003] An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition for the care of a scalp and for improving the sensation of touch, in particular a sensation of powdery texture.
[0004] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a scalp care composition comprising:
[0005] (a) at least one powdered active agent,
[0006] (b) at least one sugar, and
[0007] (c) water.
[0008] The (a) powdered active agent(s) may be an organic compound.
[0009] The powdered active agent(s) may be lipophilic active agents and insoluble in water.
[0010] The powdered active agent(s) may be chosen from among anti-aging active agents and active agents with free radical scavenging properties or free radical scavengers.
[0011] The (a) powdered active agent(s) may be selected from among retinols (vitamin A) and derivatives such as retinol esters, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, carotenes including beta-carotene, tocopherol (vitamin E) and derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate, vitamins D, vitamin D2, vitamin D3, ascorbyl palmitate, vitamin F glycerides, coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone, ceramides, organic acid esters and unsaponifiable matter having cosmetic and / or dermatological properties, including tocotrienol, sesamin, phytosterols, squalene, waxes and terpenes, preferably the a) powdered active agent is selected from organic acid esters selected from ethyl ferulate, oryzanol and in particular Gamma-oryzanol.
[0012] The (b) sugar alcohol may comprise at least one disaccharide sugar alcohol.
[0013] The (b) sugar alcohol may comprise at least two types of sugar alcohols.
[0014] The (b) sugar alcohol may comprise at least one monosaccharide sugar alcohol and at least one disaccharide sugar alcohol in combination.
[0015] The (a) powdered active agent(s) may be used in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0016] The (b) sugar alcohol may be present in a content ranging from 0.05% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0017] The (c) water may be present in a content ranging from 40% to 95% by weight, preferably from 50% to 85% by weight, and more preferably from 60% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0018] The composition may be in a non-emulsion form, such as a solution, in particular an aqueous solution, and a serum.
[0019] The composition may be a non-rinse type cosmetic composition.
[0020] The composition may include one or more oils in an amount ranging from 0% to 5% % by weight, preferably from 0% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0021] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care or revitalization of hair and / or scalp, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the scalp. Best embodiment of the invention
[0022] After careful research, the inventors surprisingly discovered that a sugar alcohol can mask a powdery texture sensation after a composition comprising a powdery active agent is applied to the hair and scalp, and thus a cosmetic composition that can offer an improved touch sensation was obtained.
[0023] Thus, the scalp care composition according to the present invention comprises:
[0024] (a) at least one powdered active agent,
[0025] (b) at least one sugar, and
[0026] (c) water.
[0027] The composition according to the present invention will be described in detail below.
[0028] [Composition]
[0029] The scalp care composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one powdered active agent, (b) at least one sugar alcohol and (c) water.
[0030] The compositions according to the present invention can be used as compositions for the revitalization and / or care of a scalp.
[0031] The composition according to the present invention can take various forms, such as a solution, a gel, a lotion, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, a fluid, a milk, a paste, a cream, a foam, and the like. In some preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention is in a non-emulsion form, such as a solution, in particular an aqueous solution, and a serum.
[0032] The composition used according to the present invention is preferably intended for use as a leave-on (or leave-on) cosmetic composition. The term "leave-on" refers to a composition that is not intended to be washed off / rinsed or removed immediately after application. A leave-on composition differs from a rinse-off composition, which is intended to be rinsed off after use on keratinous materials.
[0033] The ingredients included in the composition according to the present invention will be described in detail below.
[0034] (Powdered active agent)
[0035] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one powdered active agent. Two or more (a) powdered active agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of powdered active agent or a combination of different types of powdered active agents may be used.
[0036] The term "powder" used here means particles of any shape, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, in particular water.
[0037] The (a) powdered active agent(s) may be of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, regardless of the crystallographic form (for example lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.).
[0038] The average particle size of the powdered active agent(s) is not limited, but is generally 50 µm or less, preferably 20 µm or less, and more preferably 10 µm or less. The average particle size of the powdered active agent(s) may be 0.01 µm or more, and preferably 0.1 µm or more. The term "primary particle size" used here represents an average diameter in number-average size that is given by the statistical particle size distribution to half the population, designated by D50. For example, the diameter average size average number can be measured by a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as the Mastersizer 2000 from Malvern Corp.
[0039] The powdered active agent(s) may be chosen from among cosmetic and / or dermatological active agents, such as anti-aging active agents and active agents with anti-free radical properties or free radical scavengers.
[0040] The (a) powdered active agent(s) may be lipophilic active agents.
[0041] The term “lipophilic” here indicates substances which are soluble in oils at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the oils at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).
[0042] The (a) powdered active agent(s) may be water-insoluble active agents.
[0043] The expression "insoluble in water" here indicates materials that are soluble in water at a concentration of less than 0.1% by weight, in particular less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).
[0044] The (a) powdered active agent may be selected from cosmetic and / or dermatological active agents, in particular active agents for the skin and / or scalp.
[0045] The (a) powdered active agent may be selected from skin and / or scalp care active agents, such as anti-aging active agents and active agents with free radical scavenging properties or free radical scavengers for the skin and / or scalp.
[0046] In particular, the (a) powdered active agent(s) of the present invention may be lipophilic and / or water-insoluble cosmetic and / or dermatological active agents for the skin and / or scalp, in particular lipophilic and water-insoluble active agents for the skin and / or scalp selected from anti-aging active agents and active agents with anti-free radical properties or free radical scavengers.
[0047] In a preferred embodiment, the (a) powdered active agent(s) of the present invention are powdered active agents of organic compound.
[0048] It may be preferable that the molecular weight of the organic compound forming the (a) powdered active agent(s) be 150 or more, preferably 300 or more, and more preferably 450 or more; and / or be 3,000 or less, preferably 2,000 or less, and more preferably 1,000 or less.
[0049] It may be preferable that the molecular weight of the organic compound forming the (a) powdered active agent(s) be between 150 and 3,000, preferably between 300 and 2,000 and, more preferably, between 450 and 1,000.
[0050] Unless otherwise specified in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means an average number molecular weight.
[0051] As regards powdered active agents, retinols (vitamin A) and derivatives such as retinol esters, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, carotenes including beta-carotene, tocopherol (vitamin E) and derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate, vitamins D, vitamin D2, vitamin D3, ascorbyl palmitate, vitamin F glycerides, coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone, ceramides, organic acid esters and unsaponifiable matter having cosmetic and / or dermatological properties such as astocotrienol, sesamin, phytosterols, squalene, waxes and terpenes may be used.
[0052] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (a) powdered active agent is an ester of an organic acid, in particular those represented by a formula (I), or a geometric isomer thereof, an organic or mineral acid or a basic salt thereof, or a solvate thereof, in particular hydrates:
[0053] formula (I) in which:
[0054] R1, R4 and R5 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom;
[0055] R2 represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or an (Cr C6)alkoxy group, preferably an (Ci-C4)alkoxy group, in particular methoxy;
[0056] R3 represents a hydroxyl group or an (Ci-C6)alkoxy group, preferably a hydroxyl group; and
[0057] R6 represents a group selected from:
[0058] i) (Ci-C6)alkyl, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl, in particular methyl or ethyl, optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl,
[0059] ii) cycloalkyl, optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from (Ci-Cio)alkyl, (C2-CiO)alkenyl, hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl, and
[0060] iii) glycosylated.
[0061] An alkyl group (Cx-Cz) represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising x to z carbon atoms. For example, an alkyl group (Ci-C6) represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0062] An alkenyl group (Cx-Cz) represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising x to z carbon atoms, and comprising one or more conjugated or non-conjugated unsaturations, preferably a single unsaturation. For example, an alkenyl group (C2-CiO) represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms and comprising one or more unsaturations.
[0063] An alkoxy (Cx-Cz) group represents an -O-(CX-Cz)alkyl radical in which the (Cx-Cz)alkyl group is as defined previously.
[0064] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in formula (I), R6 represents a (Ci-C6)alkyl group i), as defined above.
[0065] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, in formula (I), R6 represents a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, non-aromatic monocyclic cycloalkyl group (ii), comprising 5 to 7 carbon atoms and optionally substituted by one or more alkyl(Ci-C4) groups and / or one or more groups selected from hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl.
[0066] In particular, the cycloalkyl group is cyclohexyl, optionally substituted by 1 to 5 hydroxyl and / or carboxyl groups. Specifically, the cycloalkyl group is cyclohexyl and is optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl, and / or amido groups, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl. More specifically, the cycloalkyl group is cyclohexyl, optionally substituted by 1 to 5 hydroxyl and / or carboxyl groups.
[0067] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, in formula (I), R6 represents a polycyclic cycloalkyl group ii), preferably comprising between 2 and 5 fused rings, comprising from 12 to 32 carbon atoms and optionally substituted; in particular, the cycloalkyl is a polycyclic group comprising between 4 and 5 fused rings, said rings having 3, 5 or 6 links and containing 16 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably 17 or 18 carbon atoms, said cycloalkyl being optionally substituted by one or more linear or branched (Ci-Ci0) or linear or branched (C2-Ci0) alkyl or alkenyl groups.
[0068] Preferably, the organic acid ester has formula (I) in which:
[0069] R1, R4 and R5 represent hydrogen atoms;
[0070] R2 represents a hydroxyl group or an alkoxy group (Ci-C6), preferably an alkoxy group (C1-C4), in particular methoxy;
[0071] R3 represents a hydroxyl group or an alkoxy group (Ci-C6); and
[0072] R6 represents a group selected from i) alkyl (Ci-C6), preferably alkyl (C1-C4),
[0073] and also their geometric isomers, their organic or mineral acid or base salts, and their solvates such as hydrates.
[0074] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the ester of formula (I) has the formula (I1) shown below:
[0075] formula (I1) in which:
[0076] R6 is as defined above; and
[0077] R7 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl group.
[0078] According to one embodiment, the organic acid ester may more particularly be of formula (P) in which R6 represents an alkyl group (Ci-C6) and preferably an alkyl group (CrC4), preferably an ethyl group; and R7 is an alkyl group (Ci-C6) and preferably an alkyl group (C1-C4), preferably a methyl group.
[0079] According to this embodiment, ethyl ferulate is preferred.
[0080] According to one embodiment, the organic acid ester can more particularly be of formula (P) in which R6 represents a saturated monocyclic cycloalkyl group comprising 5 to 7 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more groups, preferably between 1 and 4 groups, chosen from the hydroxyl and / or carboxyl; and R7 is a hydrogen atom.
[0081] According to this embodiment, chlorogenic acid is preferred.
[0082] According to one embodiment, the organic acid ester may more particularly be of formula (P) in which R6 represents a polycyclic group comprising between 3 and 5 fused saturated rings, comprising between 16 and 20 carbon atoms, substituted by at least one, preferably at least two alkyl (C1-C4) groups, preferably ethyl, and by at least one, preferably one, branched alkenyl (C8-C10) or alkyl (C8-C10) group, and R7 is an alkyl (C-C6) and preferably alkyl (Cr C4) group, preferably a methyl group.
[0083] The compounds of formulas (I) and (I1) according to the invention are preferably chosen from natural compounds or compounds of natural origin. They are preferably "green" compounds.
[0084] Specific examples of esters of formula (I) or (I') include methyl ferulate, ethyl ferulate, chlorogenic acid, isopropyl ferulate, or ferulic acid esters of sterols, such as oryzanol, particularly gamma-oryzanol. In another embodiment, oryzanol, and in particular gamma-oryzanol, is especially preferred.
[0085] The compounds of formulas (I) and (I1) can be obtained by any process known to a person skilled in the art.
[0086] For example, ferulic acid esters can be obtained by esterification of ferulic acid, which is itself obtained, for example, by biosynthesis via methoxylation of caffeic acid using the enzyme caffeic acid-O-methyltransferase, or by extraction from a plant extract, in particular wheat bran, for example using concentrated bases such as sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.
[0087] Gamma-Oryzanol can be obtained by extraction using an organic solvent, particularly from rice bran.
[0088] A number of compounds of formula (I) or (I') are also commercially available, for example Gamma-oryzanol available under the trade name Oryzanol® from Tsuno Rice Fine Chemicals, Gamma Oryzanol® from Ikeda or Oryzanolgamma V® from Ichimaru Pharcos, ethyl ferulate under the reference Ethyl ferulate, Natural or COS by Gfn Selco, also available from Sigma-Aldrich, and chlorogenic acid under the reference Eucommia Leaves Extract Chlorogenic Acid 98% by Guilin LaYN Natural Ingredients.
[0089] Preferably, the (a) powdered active agent is selected from organic acid esters selected from ethyl ferulate, oryzanol and in particular Gamma-oryzanol.
[0090] The (a) powdered active agent may be present in an amount of 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0091] The (a) powdered active agent(s) may be present in an amount of 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0092] The (a) powdered active agent(s) may be used in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0093] In the context of this specification, any combination of the above upper and lower limit values may be available to represent the preferred range of quantity.
[0094] (Sugar alcohol)
[0095] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one sugar alcohol. Two or more types of sugar alcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of sugar alcohol or a combination of different types of sugar alcohols may be used.
[0096] Sugar alcohol is a compound obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide.
[0097] In some embodiments, (b) at least one sugar alcohol may be selected from a sugar alcohol and a mixture thereof, reduced from a saccharide, a derivative thereof, and a mixture thereof. The saccharide, its derivative, or the mixture thereof may be unsubstituted or substituted with at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group, or a carbonyl group.
[0098] In some embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be derived from monosaccharides, disaccharides, trisaccharides, and mixtures thereof. In some preferred embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be derived from monosaccharides and / or disaccharides.
[0099] In some embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be derived from a monosaccharide selected from, for example, a pentose such as ribulose, xylose, ribose, arabinose, lyxose, and deoxyribose; a hexose such as allulose, fructose, sorbose, tagatose, allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, fucose, fuculose, and rhamnose; or a heptose such as sedoheptose. In this context, the sugar alcohol derived from a monosaccharide is also called a monosaccharide sugar alcohol.
[0100] In some embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be derived from disaccharides such as sucrose, lactose, maltose, and trehalose. In this context, the sugar alcohol derived from a disaccharide is also called a disaccharide sugar alcohol.
[0101] In some embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be derived from trisaccharides such as maltotriose, cellotriose, 2'-fucosyllactose, gentianose, raffinose and melicitose.
[0102] In some preferred embodiments, the sugar alcohol may be selected from a group including erythritol, lactitol, maltitol, mannitol, arabitol, sorbitol, xylitol, and mixtures thereof.
[0103] In another preferred embodiment, the sugar alcohol may be selected from a group comprising erythritol, lactitol, maltitol, mannitol, arabitol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof.
[0104] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (b) sugar alcohol comprises at least one monosaccharide sugar alcohol.
[0105] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (b) sugar alcohol comprises at least one disaccharide sugar alcohol.
[0106] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (b) sugar alcohol comprises at least two types of sugar alcohols.
[0107] In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (b) sugar alcohol comprises at least one monosaccharide sugar alcohol, such as erythritol, mannitol, arabitol and sorbitol, and at least one disaccharide sugar alcohol, such as maltitol and lactitol in combination.
[0108] The saccharides can take the form of L or D isomers.
[0109] The amount of (b) sugar alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.05% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.2% by weight or more, and even more preferably 0.3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0110] The quantity of (b) sugar alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be 3% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less, more preferably 1.5% by weight or less, even more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0111] The quantity of (b) sugar alcohol in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.05% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0112] (Water)
[0113] The composition according to the present invention comprises water.
[0114] The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, more preferably 60% by weight or more, and / or may be 95% by weight or less, and preferably 85% by weight or less, and more preferably 80% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0115] The quantity of water in the composition according to the present invention can be from 40% to 95% by weight, preferably from 50% to 85% by weight and, more preferably, from 60% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0116] (Other ingredients)
[0117] - Cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent
[0118] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent. If two or more of these solvents are used, they may be identical or different.
[0119] Cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent(s) may include, for example, lower monoalcohols having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol and isobutanol; aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; polyols or polyol ethers, such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, propanediol, caprylyl glycol, sorbitol, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol ethers, such as monomethyl propylene glycol ether, alkyl diethylene glycol ethers, such as monoethyl or monobutyl diethylene glycol ether; polyethylene glycols, such as PEG-4, PEG-6 and PEG-8, and their derivatives.
[0120] The quantity of cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic organic solvent(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 15% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0121] In one embodiment of the present invention, the quantity of the monoalcohol(s) comprising 1 to 8 carbon atoms in the composition according to the present invention can range from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 10% to 35% by weight and more preferably from 15% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0122] In one embodiment of the present invention, the quantity of polyols or polyol ether(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 7% by weight and, more preferably, from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0123] -Thickener
[0124] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one thickener. Only one type of thickener may be used, but two or more different types of thickener may be used in combination.
[0125] It is preferable to choose the thickener from among hydrophilic thickeners. The term "hydrophilic" here refers to substances soluble in water at a concentration 1% by weight or more relative to the total weight of water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).
[0126] It is preferable to choose the thickener from among the polysaccharides.
[0127] Polysaccharides are, for example, selected from glucans, modified and unmodified starches (such as those derived, for example, from cereals, e.g. wheat, maize or rice, vegetables, e.g. yellow peas, and tubers, e.g. potatoes or cassava), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextran, celluloses and their derivatives (e.g., methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitins, chitosan, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids, and pectins, alginic acid and alginates, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabic, tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, karaya gum, locust bean gum, galactomannans, such as guar gum, and their non-ionic derivatives (e.g., hydroxypropyl guar), sclerotium gum and xanthan gums, and mixtures thereof. .
[0128] For example, the polysaccharides that can be used are chosen from those described, for example, in "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", Kirk-Othmer, Third Edition, 1982, Volume 3, pp. 896-900, and Volume 15, pp. 439-458, in "Polymers in Nature" by EA MacGregor and CT Greenwood, published by John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp. 240-328, 1980, and in "Industrial Gums-Polysaccharides and their Derivatives", edited by Roy L. Whistler, Second Edition, published by Academie Press Inc.
[0129] For example, starches, guar gums, celluloses and their derivatives can be used.
[0130] Among the starches that can be used, one can cite, for example, macromolecules in the form of polymers comprising basic units that are anhydroglucose units. The number of these units and their arrangement allow one to distinguish amylose (a linear polymer) from amylopectin (a branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, can vary depending on the botanical origin of the starches.
[0131] The starch molecules used may have as their botanical origin cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches may be chosen, for example, from corn, rice, cassava, tapioca, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum and pea starches.
[0132] Starches generally exist in the form of a white powder, insoluble in cold water, with an elementary particle size ranging from 3 to 100 microns.
[0133] Starches may optionally be hydroxyalkylated at Ci-C6 or alkylated at Ci-C6 (such as acetylated). Starches may also have undergone heat treatments.
[0134] Distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate, such as the product supplied under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (hydroxypropyl gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL 200 (acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by the company AVEBE, may also be used.
[0135] Guar gums may or may not be modified.
[0136] Unmodified guar gums include, for example, products marketed under the name Vidogum GH 175 by Unipectine and under the names Meypro-Guar 50 and Jaguar C by Meyhall.
[0137] Modified non-ionic guar gums are, for example, modified with Cr C6 hydroxyalkyl groups.
[0138] Among the hydroxyalkyl groups that may be mentioned, for example, are the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
[0139] These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such as propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.
[0140] The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl groups present on the guar gum, can, for example, vary from 0.4 to 1.2.
[0141] These non-ionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are marketed, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120, Jaguar DC 293 and Jaguar HP 105 by the company Rhodia Chimie or under the name Galactasol 4H4FD2 by the company Aqualon.
[0142] Among the celluloses and cellulose derivatives, such as cellulose modified with hydroxylalkyl groups, which are used, for example, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose, as well as hydrophobic hydroxypropylmethylcellulose. Reference may be made to the products sold under the names Klucel EF, Klucel H, Klucel LHF, Klucel MF, and Klucel G by the company Aqualon.
[0143] The quantity of the thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0144] -Non-ionic surfactant
[0145] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one nonionic surfactant. If at least two nonionic surfactants are used, they may be identical or different.
[0146] The nonionic surfactant may have an HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) value of 3.0 to 7.0, preferably 3.5 to 6.0, and more preferably 4.0 to 5.0. Alternatively, the nonionic surfactant may have an HLB value of 11 to 17, preferably 12 to 16, and more preferably 13 to 15. If two or more nonionic surfactants are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values of all the nonionic surfactants.
[0147] The non-ionic surfactant may be selected from:
[0148] (1) surfactants selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl esters, alkyl polyoxyalkylated glycerides and polyoxyalkylated fatty ethers;
[0149] (2) mixed esters of fatty acid or fatty alcohol, carboxylic acid and glycerol;
[0150] (3) fatty acid esters of sugars and fatty alcohol ethers of sugars;
[0151] (4) surfactants selected from sorbitan fatty esters and fatty esters oxyalkylated sorbitan, and oxyalkylated fatty esters;
[0152] (5) sequenced copolymers of ethylene oxide (A) and propylene oxide (B),
[0153] (6) alkyl (Ci6-C30) polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO),
[0154] (7) silicone surfactants, and
[0155] (8) mixtures of these.
[0156] The surfactant (1) may be a fluid at a temperature less than or equal to 45 °C.
[0157] The surfactant (1) may in particular be:
[0158] - polyglyceryl fatty acid esters of at least one, preferably one, fatty acid comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C22 hydrocarbon group, such as a C8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably a C8-C18 alkyl or alkenyl group, and more preferably a C8-C12 alkyl or alkenyl group, and 2-12 glycerols, preferably 2-10 glycerols and more preferably 2-8 glycerols;
[0159] - polyoxyethylenated alkyl glycerides (PEGyls) such as polyethylene derivatives glycol of a mixture of mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of caprylic and capric acids (preferably 2 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, more preferably 2 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs, and even more preferably 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs), for example, PEG-6 caprylic / capric glycerides, PEG-7 caprylic / capric glycerides and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate;
[0160] - polyoxyethylenated fatty ethers of at least one fatty alcohol, preferably one, comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C8-C22 hydrocarbon group, such as a C8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably a C8-C18 alkyl or alkenyl group, and more preferably a C8-C12 alkyl or alkenyl group, and 2 to 60 ethylene oxides, preferably 2 to 30 ethylene oxides, and more preferably 2 to 10 ethylene oxides; and
[0161] - their mixtures.
[0162] It is preferable that the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester have a polyglycerol fraction derived from 2 to 10 glycerols, more preferably from 2 to 8 glycerols, and more preferably still from 4 to 6 glycerols.
[0163] The fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be selected from mono, di and triesters of saturated or unsaturated acid, preferably of saturated acid, including 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms, such as caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and myristic acid.
[0164] Polyoxyalkylated fatty ethers, preferably polyoxyethylated fatty ethers, may comprise from 2 to 60 ethylene oxide units, preferably from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, and more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units. The fatty chain of the ethers may be selected in particular from lauryl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, and cetyl units, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl. Examples of ethoxylated fatty ethers include lauryl alcohol ethers containing 2, 3, 4 and 5 ethylene oxide motifs (CTFA names: Laureth-2, Laureth-3, Laureth-4 and Laureth-5), such as products sold under the names Nikkol BL-2 by Nikko Chemicals, Emalex 703 by Nihon Emulsion Co, Ltd, Nikkol BL-4 by Nikko Chemicals and EMALEX 705 by Nihon Emulsion Co, Ltd.Examples also include stearyl alcohol ethers comprising 2, 3, 4, 5 and 20 ethylene oxide motifs (CTFA names: Steareth-2, Steareth-3, Steareth-4, Steareth-5 and Steareth-20), such as products sold under the names Emalex 602 by Nihon Emulsion Co, Ltd, Emalex 603 by Nihon Emulsion Co, Ltd, Nikkol BS-4 by Nikko Chemicals, and Emalex 605 by Nihon Emulsion Co, Ltd.
[0165] It is also preferable that the polyoxyalkylated fatty ethers be polyethylene glycol ethers of alcohols or fatty alcohols in C8-C24 and their polyoxyalkylated derivatives and polypropylene glycol ethers of alcohols or fatty alcohols in C4-C24 such as butyl ether PPG-14 and stearyl ether PPG-15.
[0166] The (2) mixed esters of fatty acids, or fatty alcohols, carboxylic acid and glycerol, usable as the above nonionic surfactant, may be selected in particularly in the group comprising mixed esters of fatty acids or fatty alcohols with an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms, and α-hydroxy acid and / or succinic acid, with glycerol. The α-hydroxy acid may be, for example, citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid or malic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0167] The alkyl chain of the fatty acids or alcohols from which the mixed esters usable in the nanoemulsion of the present invention are derived may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated. These may include, in particular, stearate, isostearate, linoleate, oleate, behenate, arachidonate, palmitate, myristate, laurate, caprate, isostearyl, stearyl, linoleyl, oleyl, behenyl, myristyle, lauryl or capryl chains, and mixtures thereof.
[0168] By way of examples of mixed esters usable in the nanoemulsion of the present invention, we may mention the mixed ester of glycerol and the mixture of citric acid, lactic acid, linoleic acid and oleic acid (CTFA name: Glyceryl citrate / lactate / linoleate / oleate) sold by the company Hüls under the name Imwitor 375; the mixed ester of succinic acid and isostearyl alcohol with glycerol (CTFA name: Isostearyl diglyceryl succinate) sold by the company Hüls under the name Imwitor 780 K; the mixed ester of citric acid and stearic acid with glycerol (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate citrate) sold by the company Hüls under the name Imwitor 370; the mixed ester of lactic acid and stearic acid with glycerol (name CTFA: Glyceryl stearate lactate) sold by the company Danisco under the name Lactodan B 30 or Rylo LA30.
[0169] The (3) fatty acid esters of sugars, usable as the above nonionic surfactant, may be selected in particular from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of C8-C22 fatty acids and sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, and esters or mixtures of esters of C14-C22 fatty acids and methylglucose.
[0170] The C8-C22 or C14-C22 fatty acids forming the fatty acid motif of the esters usable in the present invention comprise a saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl or alkenyl chain containing 8 to 22 or 14 to 22 carbon atoms, respectively. The fatty acid motif of the esters may be selected in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates, and caprates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates are preferably used.
[0171] The (3) fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, usable as the above nonionic surfactant, may be solid at a temperature of 45°C or lower and may be selected in particular from the group comprising ethers or mixtures of C8-C22 fatty alcohol ethers and glucose, maltose, sucrose or fructose, and the Ethers or mixtures of ethers of a C14-C22 fatty alcohol and methylglucose. These include, in particular, alkyl polyglucosides.
[0172] The C8-C22 or C14-C22 fatty alcohols forming the fatty acid motif of the ethers that can be used in the nanoemulsion of the present invention comprise a linear alkyl or alkenyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, containing from 8 to 22 or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, respectively. The fatty acid motif of the ethers can be selected in particular from the following motifs: decyl, cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyle, lauryl, capryl, hexadecanoyl, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl.
[0173] The (4) sorbitan fatty acid esters and oxyalkylated sorbitan fatty acid esters that can be used as the above nonionic surfactant may be selected from the group comprising Ci6-C22 sorbitan fatty acid esters and Ci6-C22 oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters. They may be formed from at least one fatty acid having at least one saturated linear alkyl chain containing, respectively, from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and sorbitol or ethoxylated sorbitol. The oxyethylenated esters may generally comprise from 1 to 100 ethylene glycol units and preferably from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide (EO) units.
[0174] These esters may be selected in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates and palmitates are preferably used.
[0175] The (4) oxyalkylated fatty esters, preferably ethoxylated fatty esters, usable as the above-mentioned nonionic surfactant, may be esters formed of 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units, preferably 2 to 60 ethylene oxide units, and more preferably 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, and of at least one fatty acid chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms. The fatty acid chain in the esters may be selected in particular from stearate, behenate, arachidate, and palmitate units, and mixtures thereof.Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters include stearic acid ester containing 40 ethylene oxide motifs, such as the product marketed under the name Myrj 52 (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate) by ICI, and behenic acid ester containing 8 ethylene oxide motifs (CTFA name: PEG-8 behenate), such as the product marketed under the name Compritol HD5 ATO by Gattefosse.
[0176] The (5) sequenced copolymers of ethylene oxide (A) and propylene oxide (B), usable as the above nonionic surfactant, may be selected in particular from the sequenced copolymers of formula (I):
[0177] HO(C2H4O)x(C3H6O)y(C2H4O)zH (I)
[0178] in which x, y and z are integers such that x+z ranges from 2 to 100 and y ranges from 14 to 60, and their mixtures, and more particularly among the sequenced copolymers of formula (I) having an HLB value ranging from 8.0 to 14.0.
[0179] The (6)alkyl (Ci6-C30) polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) ethers, which can be used as the above nonionic surfactant, can be selected from the group consisting of:
[0180] PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30; Polyoxyethylene (30) Polyoxypropylene (6) Tetradecyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PEN-4630 from Nikko Chemicals Co.,
[0181] PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-12; Polyoxyethylene (12) Polyoxypropylene (6) Tetradecyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PEN-4612 from Nikko Chemicals Co.,
[0182] PPG-13 Decyltetradeceth-24; Polyoxyethylene (24) Polyoxypropylene (13) Decyltetradecyl Ether such as those sold as UNILUBE 50MT-2200B from NOF Corporation,
[0183] PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (6) Decyltetradecyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PEN-4620 by Nikko Chemicals Co,
[0184] PPG-4 Ceteth-1; Polyoxyethylene (1) Polyoxypropylene (4) Cetyl Ether such as those sold by Nikkol PBC-31 of Nikko Chemicals Co,
[0185] PPG-8 Ceteth-1; Polyoxyethylene (1) Polyoxypropylene (8) Cetyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PBC-41 by Nikko Chemicals Co,
[0186] PPG-4 Ceteth-10; Polyoxyethylene (10) Polyoxypropylene (4) Cetyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PBC-33 by Nikko Chemicals Co.,
[0187] PPG-4 Ceteth-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (4) Cetyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PBC-34 by Nikko Chemicals Co.,
[0188] PPG-5 Ceteth-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (5) Cetyl Ether such as those sold under the name Procetyl AWS by Croda Inc,
[0189] PPG-8 Ceteth-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (8) Cetyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PBC-44 by Nikko Chemicals Co. and
[0190] PPG-23 Steareth-34; Polyoxyethylene Polyoxypropylene Stearyl Ether (34 EO) (23 PO) such as those sold under the name Unisafe 34S-23 by Pola Chemical Industries. They can provide a composition with long-term stability, even if the temperature of the composition is raised and lowered in a relatively short period.
[0191] As (7) silicone surfactants, which can be used like the nonionic surfactant above, mention may be made of those disclosed in documents US-A-5364633 and US-A-5411744.
[0192] The (7) silicone surfactant as a nonionic surfactant above may preferably be a compound of formula (I):
[0193] in which:
[0194] Rb R2 and R3, independently of each other, represent a 1-C6 alkyl radical or a -(CH2)x-(OCH2CH2)y-(OCH2CH2CH2)z-OR4 radical, at least one Rb R2 or R3 radical not being an alkyl radical; R4 being a hydrogen, an alkyl radical or an acyl radical;
[0195] A is an integer from 0 to 200;
[0196] B is an integer from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not simultaneously equal to zero;
[0197] x is an integer from 1 to 6;
[0198] y is an integer between 1 and 30;
[0199] z is an integer from 0 to 5.
[0200] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the compound of formula (I), the alkyl radical is a methyl radical, x is an integer from 2 to 6 and y is an integer from 4 to 30.
[0201] Examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I) include compounds of formula (II): (CH3)3SiO - [(CH3)2SîO]a - (CH3SîO)b - Si(CH3)3 i (H) (CH2)2-(OCH2CH2)y-OH
[0202] in which A is an integer from 20 to 105, B is an integer from 2 to 10 and y is an integer from 10 to 20.
[0203] By way of examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I), we may also mention the compounds of formula (III):
[0204] H-(OCH2CH2)y-(CH2)3-[(CH3)2SiO]A -(CH2)3-(OCH2CH2)y-OH (III)
[0205] in which A' and y are integers from 10 to 20.
[0206] The non-ionic surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 7% by weight, and more preferably 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0207] -Amino acid
[0208] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one amino acid. Two or more types of amino acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of sugar alcohol or a combination of different types of amino acids may be used. The amino acid may include an analog, a solvated form, a hydrate, a stereoisomer, or a salt thereof.
[0209] The amino acid has at least one amino group and at least one carboxyl group. The amino group may be a primary amino group, a secondary amino group or a tertiary amino group.
[0210] The amino acid can be of D or L form.
[0211] The amino acid may be selected from acidic amino acids, basic amino acids, neutral amino acids, and mixtures thereof. Acidic amino acids generally have one amino group and two carboxyl groups. Examples of acidic amino acids include glutamic acid and aspartic acid. Basic amino acids generally have two amino groups and one carboxyl group. Examples of basic amino acids include arginine, lysine, histidine, and ornithine. The number of amino groups and the number of carboxyl groups in neutral amino acids are identical. Examples of neutral amino acids include glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, asparagine, glutamine, proline, phenylalanine, tyrosine, and tryptophan. In some preferred embodiments, the amino acid may be chosen from basic amino acids and their mixtures.In particular preferred embodiments, the amino acid may be arginine.
[0212] The amino acid may be selected from α-amino acids, β-amino acids, γ-amino acids, and β-amino acids. The α-amino acid may be selected from non-cyclic α-amino acids and cyclic α-amino acids. The non-cyclic α-amino acid may be selected from the group consisting of alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine. The cyclic α-amino acid may be selected from non-aromatic cyclic α-amino acids such as pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (pyrroglutamic acid or pidolic acid). Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid can be formed by intramolecular condensation with the amino group and the carboxyl group of glutamic acid.
[0213] In some embodiments, the amino acid may be chosen from amino acid derivatives. Amino acid derivatives may be chosen from amino acids in which the hydrogen atom on the nitrogen atom of the amino group in the amino acids is substituted by at least one substituent.
[0214] As a substituent, one may mention, for example, an alkyl group, an alkyl group, an alkenyl group, an alkoxyl group and an alkoxycarbonyl group.
[0215] The alkyl group may be linear, branched, or cyclic. The alkyl group may be linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, preferably a C1-C4 alkyl group, such as a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, an i-propyl group, or a butyl group. Alternatively, the alkyl group may be a cyclic C3-C6 alkyl group, such as a cyclopentyl group or a cyclohexyl group.
[0216] The acetyl group may be a Cr C6 acetyl group such as a formyl group and an acetyl group.
[0217] The alkenyl group may be a C2-C6 alkenyl group such as a vinyl group, an allyl group, a butylene group, a pentenyl group and a hexenyl group.
[0218] The alkoxy group may be a Ci-C6 alkoxy group such as a methoxy group, an ethoxy group and a propoxy group.
[0219] The alkoxycarbonyl group may be a Ci-C6 alkoxycarbonyl group such as a methoxycarbonyl group, an ethoxycarbonyl group and a propoxycarbonyl group.
[0220] The above substituent may be further substituted by at least one group such as a halogen atom, an amino group, a nitro group, a cyano group, a hydroxyl group and an aromatic group such as a phenyl group.
[0221] In one embodiment, the amino acid may be chosen from amino acid salts or amino acid derivative salts.
[0222] The type of amino acid salts or amino acid derivative salts is not limited. The salts may be acidic or basic. Examples of acidic salts include, for instance, salts of inorganic acids such as hydrochlorides, sulfates, nitrates, and phosphates, and salts of organic acids such as citrates, oxalates, acetates, formates, maleates, and tartrates. Examples of basic salts include, for instance, salts of inorganic bases such as sodium salt, potassium salt, calcium salt, magnesium salt, copper salt, zinc salt, aluminum salt, and ammonium salts, and salts of organic bases such as triethylammonium salts, triethanolammonium salts, pyridinium salts, and diisopropylammonium salts.
[0223] The amino acid(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.03% to 3% by weight, and more preferably 0.05% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0224] - Additives
[0225] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more of the adjuvants that are common in the fields of cosmetics and dermatology, selected from cationic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants; cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; gelling agents; penetrating agents; pH adjusters such as sodium hydroxide; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; moisturizers such as sodium hyaluronate; emollients; hydrophilic active agents; free radical scavengers; sequestering agents such as gluconolactone; suspending agents; buffers; perfumes; emollients; dispersing agents; dyes and / or pigments; film-forming agents; stabilizers; preservatives; co-preservatives; opacifying agents; agents that may cause a cooling sensation, such as menthol; and mixtures thereof.
[0226] The composition according to the present invention may further include plant extracts, such as extracts of Nymphaeaceae plants, for example, Nymphaea alba root extract or ginger root extract.
[0227] The quantity of Nymphaeaceae plant extracts may range from 0.0001% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.001% to 0.1% by weight, even more preferably from 0.001% to 0.05% by weight, or in particular from 0.001% to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0228] Examples of hydrophilic active ingredients include vitamin B3 and its derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, resorcinol derivatives, C-glycoside derivatives, salicylic acid and its derivatives, α-hydroxy acids, niacinamide and their mixtures.
[0229] The quantity of additives included in the composition according to the present invention is not limited, but may be from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
[0230] In some preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention is oil-free or comprises a trace amount of oil. In some embodiments, the oils may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention is oil-free (i.e., 0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition).
[0231] The term "oil" here means a compound or fatty substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not a solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0232] The oils may include volatile or non-volatile oils; these oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, in particular of animal or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof. The oil may be selected from ester oils, fatty alcohols, and combinations thereof.
[0233] For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon-based oil" or "hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and / or phosphorus atoms. Hydrocarbon-based oil does not contain any silicon atoms.
[0234] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular, at least one Si-O group, such as dimethicone.
[0235] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can generally be, for example, from 2 to 7, preferably from 3 to 7, and more preferably from 4 to 6.
[0236] The composition according to the present invention can be manufactured using techniques customary in the art, for example, by mixing ingredients (a) to (c). Said other ingredients can be mixed with these ingredients. During mixing, these ingredients can be heated if necessary.
[0237] [Cosmetic process and use]
[0238] The present invention relates to a cosmetic process for the care or revitalization of the scalp, comprising the application to the scalp of the composition according to the present invention.
[0239] By cosmetic process, we mean here a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or revitalization of the scalp.
[0240] The application step can be carried out by any conventional means such as an applicator, for example the hands, a sprayer, and a brush. The application step can be a topical application step.
[0241] The composition according to the present invention is intended to be used as a leave-on cosmetic composition. Therefore, the cosmetic process according to the present invention does not include a rinsing or washing step of the applied composition after the application step. In one embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic process of the present invention does not include a rinsing or washing step of the applied composition within one hour, preferably within two hours, more preferably within four hours, and even more preferably within eight hours after the application step.
[0242] In addition, the present invention also relates to a use of the composition according to the present invention in the field of cosmetics, in particular the care and / or revitalization of the scalp.
[0243] The present invention also relates to a use of (b) sugar alcohol to mask the powdery sensation to the touch caused by (a) the powdery active agent included in the water-based composition. The composition may comprise an oil or oils in an amount from 0% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, or the composition may be free of oils.
[0244] The same explanations given for the composition, (a) at least one powdered active agent, (b) at least one sugar alcohol, and (c) water in the composition of the invention, can be applied to those of the process and use according to the present invention. The composition used in the process and use according to the present invention may include any of the optional ingredients explained above for the composition according to the present invention. EXAMPLES
[0245] The present invention will be described in more detail with the aid of examples. However, these examples shall not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[0246] In the examples, "Maltitol (and) Sorbiol" was obtained from KANKOHSHA, sold under the name "Amalty Syrup", and Oryzanol was obtained from TSUNO RICE FINE CHEMICALS, sold under the name "Gamma Oryzanol".
[0247] [Composition]
[0248] The compositions according to Example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 3 were prepared in accordance with the following protocol. The formulations are shown in Table 2 below. In Table 2, all components are based on "% by weight" as active raw materials.
[0249] [Preparation Protocol]
[0250] 1) Add the water-soluble ingredients, such as polyglyceryl-4 caprate, Nymphaea alba extract, propylene glycol, arginine and sugar compounds, if applicable, in water
[0251] 2) Shake until all ingredients are completely dissolved room temperature.
[0252] 3) Add oily or powdered ingredients such as ginger extract and Oryzanol. Pre-correct the pH to be slightly acidic (approximately 6).
[0253] 4) Shake until all ingredients are completely dissolved room temperature
[0254] 5) Add sodium hyaluronate, ethanol, sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, add menthol and correct the final pH to 5.3.
[0255] [Evaluation]
[0256] (Sensory Appreciation)
[0257] A strand of hair (1 g, 27 cm) was prepared for each experiment. Each strand was washed with an arbitrary shampoo before application of the composition. The formulation of the arbitrary shampoo is shown in Table 1 below. In Table 1, all components are based on the "% by weight" as active raw materials. 0.2 g of each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 were applied to each sample with a brush, followed by blow-drying. Five professional panelists evaluated the sensory aspects of "hardness," "natural feel," and "smooth texture," and then rated them comprehensively as "touch sensation" on a five-point scale (++, +, =, -, —) against a reference composition from Comparative Example 1.
[0258] [Tables 1] Ingredients (Any Shampoo): Glycerin 2, Hexylene glycol 1, Sodium chloride 1, Coco-betaine 9, Sodium laureth sulfate 15, Polyquaternium-10 0.3, Sodium benzoate 0.5, Salicylic acid 0.2, Citric acid q.s. pH 5.3, Sodium hydroxide q.s. pH 5.3, Deionized water q.s. 100
[0259] The results are shown in Table 2.
[0260] [Tables2] Ingredients Ex. 1 Comp. comp. 1 Comp. Ex. 2 Comp. Ex. 3 Oryzanol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Maltitol (and) sorbitol 0.4 - - - Sucrose - - 0.4 - Hydroxyethyl cellulose - - - 0.4 Sclerotium gum 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Xanthan gum 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Propylene glycol 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Gluconolactone 2 2 2 2 Polyglyceryl-4 caprate 2 2 2 2 Arginine 0.11 0.11 0.11 0.11 Ginger root extract 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Menthol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Nymphaea Alba root extract 0.003 0.003 0.003 0.003 Sodium hyaluronate 0.11 0.11 0.11 0.11 Ethanol 20 20 20 20 Sodium hydroxide qs pH 5.3 qs pH 5.3 qs pH 5.3 qs pH 5.3 Deionized water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Evaluation Sensation of touch ++ = = =
[0261] As can be seen from the results shown in Table 2, the compositions according to Example 1, which include ingredients (a) to (c) of the present invention, provided improved sensory properties to the hair.
[0262] On the other hand, the composition according to comparative examples 1 to 3, which does not include (b) sugar alcohol, showed no improvement with regard to sensory properties.
[0263] Consequently, it can be concluded that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is highly preferable as a cosmetic composition for the care and / or revitalization of the scalp.
Claims
Demands
1. A scalp care composition comprising: (a) at least one powdered active agent selected from lipophilic and water-insoluble active agents, (b) at least one monosaccharide sugar alcohol and at least one disaccharide sugar alcohol in combination; and (c) water; the (b) sugar alcohols being present in a content of 0.05% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition being a leave-on cosmetic composition.
2. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the powdered active agent(s) is / are an active agent(s) for the skin and / or scalp selected from anti-aging active agents and active agents with free radical scavenging properties or free radical scavengers.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the (a) powdered active agent(s) is / are selected from retinols (vitamin A) and derivatives such as retinol esters, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, carotenes including beta-carotene, tocopherol (vitamin E) and derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate, vitamins D, vitamin D2, vitamin D3, ascorbyl palmitate, vitamin F glycerides, coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone, ceramides, organic acid esters and unsaponifiable matter having cosmetic and / or dermatological properties including tocotrienol, sesamin, phytosterols, squalene, waxes and terpenes.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is in a non-emulsion form, such as a solution, in particular an aqueous solution, and a serum.
5. A cosmetic process for the care or revitalization of keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising the step of applying to the keratinous fibers the composition according to any one of the preceding claims.